the head and body of the clown as in Fig. 403. Colour it, and cut out
another piece exactly the same to represent the back of the clown. Draw
and cut out two arms as in Fig. 404, two legs as in Fig. 405. Cut out
two small discs of lead, and glue them behind the balls in his hands;
glue little pieces of lead behind his boots. His arms and legs are
fastened together by thread, as in Fig. 406. The back part of the body
hides the strings.
This clown can be hung inside a box, and the strings passed through a
hole (directly underneath the clown) in another box upon which he can
then be made to dance, as in Fig. 407. The figure works best if properly
balanced; see that the arms and legs are equal in size and weight.
=Rocking Horses and Elephants.= The simplest way of making a rocking
horse is shown in Fig. 408. Two rockers, A B C, are cut out of cardboard
(medium thickness). Next two horses, D, are drawn on cartridge paper,
the distance between the fore and hind feet corresponding to the
distance A C in the rockers. The horses are coloured and cut out, and
their heads and tails gummed together. The four legs are then fastened
with paper-fasteners (or with gum) to the ends of the two rockers. A
wooden rocking horse is made in the following way. The two rockers, A
B and C D, are cut out of three-ply wood with a fret-saw. The arc of
a circle of 4 inches to 4-1/2 inches radius is a good size; width of
rocker, H K (Fig. 409), 3/4 inch.
Three pieces of stripwood 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch are sawn, length 3-1/4
inches, E, F and G. Pencil-marks must be made on the two rockers to show
where these strips are to go, one in the middle, the other two at the
ends. Before fastening them on, a slit is sawn in the middle of each
end-piece, as at E and G.
[Illustration: FIG. 408]
[Illustration: FIG. 409]
[Illustration: FIG. 410]
Strips E, F and G are glued and nailed to one rocker, then this rocker
can be laid on its side, and the second rocker glued to the upstanding
strips. There is no need to nail the second rocker; indeed, if the ends
of the strips are very evenly cut, there is no need for nailing at all.
The horse (Fig. 410) can be cut out of cardboard and have one front leg
and one back leg fitted into the slits. Cardboard of medium thickness
will just fit a saw-cut and no gluing is needed. If the horse is cut out
of fret-wood or three-ply wood (1/8 inch thick) the saw-cuts must be
enlarged with a file and the feet glued in.
Instead of horses, donkeys, tigers, lions, etc., can be fixed on rockers
as just described.
The rockers in Fig. 409 can also be built up of cardboard.
=A Rocking Elephant.= On a piece of cardboard draw a circle 1-1/4 inches
in radius; on this draw an elephant as in Fig. 411. Colour the ball
red and the elephant grey (both sides must be coloured) and cut out.
Cut out a piece of cartridge paper (Fig. 412), length equal to half
the circumference of the circle in Fig. 411, width, 1-1/2 inches. Fold
in half along D E, cut out D B C E, as in diagram, the shaded portions
being cut away. Gum B D C E to disc H as in Fig. 411, so that D F E G
forms a rocker; make a similar rocker for the other side. Two pieces of
lead (A in Fig. 411) are cut out and glued on each side of the disc at
the bottom, as in the figure. The lead must have paper suitably coloured
pasted over it. The elephant will swing up and down at the slightest
touch. Instead of an elephant a clown can be drawn on the ball.
Fig. 413 shows an elephant rolling on his back. This toy can be made in
the same way as the first elephant. A circle (1-1/4 inches radius) is
drawn first, and the elephant drawn in the circle. These elephants can
be cut with the fret-saw from satin walnut (1/4 inch thick). In this
case the lead on each side must almost reach the diameter, as shown in
Fig. 413. Another disc of wood (1-1/4 inch radius) must be fret-sawed
out of the satin walnut, sawn in two, and the halves glued one on each
side of the lead, to make a base wide enough for the toy to rock upon
without upsetting. No lead will then show, and it will look like a
wooden toy. If these toys are cut out of thin wood, 1/8 inch thick, they
still require at least twice as much lead as the cardboard toy.
The elephant may also be drawn balancing a ball instead of a clown.
Children will delight in making these toys from cardboard, paper and
lead for a toy circus.
Fig. 414 shows a swan drawn in a circle; the shaded part represents the
paper rocker on one side. This model requires no lead. A duck can be
made in the same way.
Fig. 415 shows a design for elephants on a see-saw. The elephants must
be the same size as far as possible.
[Illustration: FIG. 411]
[Illustration: FIG. 412]
[Illustration: FIG. 413]
[Illustration: FIG. 414]
[Illustration: FIG. 415]
CHAPTER XVII
MOVING FIGURES
Fig. 416, "The Washing Day," shows a pattern that will please little
English toy-makers. It can be cut from wood with the fret-saw, or with
scissors from cardboard of medium thickness.
[Illustration: FIG. 416]
[Illustration: FIG. 417]
_To make the Design._ First cut two lengths of three-ply wood or
cardboard, 1/2 inch by 8 inches, A B and C D.
Next draw on wood or cardboard, and cut out, the two little washer-women
(they are about 4-1/2 inches high). They look more effective if painted.
These are fastened to the strips of cardboard by means of
paper-fasteners (Size 000; one gross sixpence); the holes for the
fasteners are about 1-1/4 inches from the ends. The holes in the
little washer-women are exactly one above the other, so that when the
paper-fasteners are in and A B is exactly above C D, the figures are
upright.
A washing tub, E, is cut out of cartridge paper (top of tub, 3 inches,
bottom 1-3/4 inches); this can be painted brown or green and have a
white rim round the top to represent soap-suds. This tub is gummed to C
D, exactly between the two little washers. If the part of A B that comes
behind the tub is cut away as in diagram the figures will work better.
When the strips of cardboard are moved backward and forward the figures
put their clothes in the tub and take them out again. The toy works best
if a little space is left between A B and C D, as in Fig. 417. If it is
cut out of fret-wood the figures are fastened by rivets, as explained in
Chapter XV.
Fig. 417 shows two ducks eating out of the same bucket; strips of
cardboard, A B and C D, are the same size as those in Fig. 416. The
bucket is cut out of cardboard and gummed to C D.
The sailors in Fig. 418 are made in the same way, holes are made in
their hands, through which yarn is passed (the thicker the yarn the more
like rope it is) or oars can be cut out of cardboard and fitted in the
holes in their hands, when they will appear to row.
Fig. 419 shows a man driving a donkey. It is made of cardboard, except
the whip, A, which is thread tied into a hole in the cardboard at C. The
whip will work better if a little piece of lead or something heavy is
tied at the end of the thread. The reins, B, are of thread or yarn, and
pass through holes in the donkey's mouth and in the man's hand.
Two fishermen can be made in the same way, the whip easily becomes a
fishing-rod and a lead fish can be attached to the end of the line.
In the case of the donkey-driver and the fishermen the strips of
cardboard should be longer than shown in the figure, to leave room for
holding. The strip for the donkey-driver should be about 9 inches, the
fishermen require at least 12 inches if their lines are not to get
entangled.
[Illustration: FIG. 418]
[Illustration: FIG. 419]
Children will readily think of other designs for this simple but
interesting toy.
CHAPTER XVIII
SOME OLD-FASHIONED TOYS--A MONKEY-UP-A-STICK, A JACK-IN-THE-BOX
A Monkey-up-a-stick is a very easy toy to make. First cut out a
cardboard or wooden monkey as in Fig. 420. See that the legs and arms
turn freely on paper-fasteners, A and B. Paint the monkey grey or brown.
With a pin make holes, C and D, in the feet and hands. Next saw two
lengths of stripwood, one 1´ × 1/4" × 1/4", the other almost twice as
long. Drill a hole near one end of each of these sticks. Pass a pin or
piece of wire through the holes in the monkey's feet and the hole in
the shorter stick; bend down the pin on each side to keep the feet from
slipping off. (The point of the pin should be cut off with pliers.) In
the same way fasten the monkey's hands to the longer stick. See that the
limbs (note that they come one on each side of the stick) revolve freely
on the pins or wire. The two sticks may be kept together by pieces of
elastic; this however rather prevents the one stick from moving freely
up and down the other. It is better first to file the sticks (or one of
the sticks) round or to use dowel rods. These round rods can then be
kept together by cardboard or wooden discs. The disc must have a hole in
the middle large enough for the rod to move freely up and down in it.
The thicker the piece of wood or cardboard the better. The hole must be
made in the wood with a brace and bit (a bradawl will make the hole in
cardboard, and it can be filed to the right size with a round file).
The longer rod, A, Fig. 421, goes through the hole; the bottom of the
shorter rod, B, is glued and nailed to the disc.
By moving the disc C up and down the monkey performs its usual antics at
the top of the stick.
The monkey, or a clown if preferred, looks very effective cut out of
three-ply wood and riveted together.
For a small model wooden meat skewers may be used as sticks. Other
suggestions for C in Fig. 421 are: a reel (though rod B when glued to a
reel tends to break off); half a cork.
[Illustration: FIG. 420]
[Illustration: FIG. 421]
[Illustration: FIG. 422]
[Illustration: FIG. 423]
More interesting than the "monkey-up-a-stick" is the monkey that climbs
a rope, though this little animal has sometimes an irritating manner of
swinging about on the rope, and going no higher. If he is carefully made
according to the following directions he ought to climb. The monkey is
cut out of cardboard in the same way as the first monkey, except that
his two arms are gummed firmly on in the position shown in Fig. 422, his
legs only being free to move. Pins or pieces of wire are passed through
the holes at A, B, C, D. In the case of pins, the point is cut off with
cutting pliers and the rest doubled back to prevent its coming out on
one side, the head of the pin prevents it coming out on the other. Tie
a piece of thin elastic round the pins, A and B, so that it is only just
on the stretch when the legs are drawn up parallel with the arms, as
in the figure. A piece of wire is passed through at E and is bent over
out-wards, drawing the hands fairly tightly together. A piece of thread
is passed through the eye so formed, down and under the pin, C, then
over the pin, D By alternately slackening and tightening the line the
monkey will climb up the thread in a very life-like manner.
Care must be taken to nip the wire well together at the hands to get
enough friction to hold the thread firmly while the elastic pulls the
legs up, on the other hand the thread must be just loose enough to pass
through E.
=A Jack-in-the-box.= The simplest way of making a Jack-in-the-box is the
following. Get some ordinary wire (quite thin wire will do) about 4 feet
long or longer if a bigger jump is required. Wind this tightly round a
broom handle, keeping the rings of wire close together. Slip it off.
Take a cork, cut it so that it is about 1-1/4 inches high. File it round
in the shape of a head as in Fig. 423. Mark the eyes and nose in ink,
the mouth with red paint; or two beads can be glued in for the eyes. To
make the hair, cut several short pieces of black wool, tie them in the
middle at B, and glue or pin them to the middle of the head; tie back
the side ends with yellow or red wool as in the figure. Fasten one end
of the wire spring in the centre of bottom of cork, as at A. A piece of
muslin is then gummed round the cork to hide the spring, so that it is
loose and folds easily.
Next make a box, 2-3/4 inches high, or take the cardboard box that
contains a bottle of Le Page's liquid glue, and cut off about one-third.
Cut off the cover and glue it on to one side (C in the figure). Make
loop of wire at D, and insert a paper-fastener at E to catch the wire
loop. Fasten the end of the spring to the bottom of the box, by passing
it through the hole in one bottom flap, bending it over and gluing over
it the other flaps that form the bottom. Coloured paper or scraps may
be gummed to the sides and top of the box. This is a suitable toy to be
hung on a small Christmas tree.
A larger and stronger Jack-in-the-box can be made from a wooden box
about 5-1/2 inches square. For this a piece of No. 12 gauge wire about
10 feet long is required; it is wound around a rolling-pin. This spring
is then nailed by means of staples to a piece of wood made to fit the
inside of the box. Fasten a round piece of cardboard to the top of the
spring, and either sew on to it a small doll's head, or make a doll's
head of part of a stocking stuffed with wool and having eyes, mouth,
etc., sewn on. A cap (a fool's cap looks best) is made to fit the head,
and a loose jacket is sewn on to hide the spiral body.
CHAPTER XIX
LITTLE SWORDSMEN
Fig. 424 shows the principle on which this toy is made; the shaded
portion represents the inside of a box. A good size for a box to make
this toy is 9" × 4-1/2" × 2-1/4". Slits should be cut in the long side
of the box at _a b_, _c d_, _e f_, _g h_. These slits may be made with a
pen-knife, and a fret-saw file will make them wide enough for a piece of
cardboard to slip up and down in.
Slits are then made in the short side exactly under the long slits, as
_p n_ in Fig. 425. Widen these slits also with a file.
Next cut out the cardboard figures. Draw head, body and one leg to be
cut out in one piece; about 3 inches of cardboard should be left below
the foot (M and N in Fig. 424), the total length of figure being about 8
inches. Cut out another figure like this. Make holes just below the foot
as at D in Fig. 424.
Next draw and cut out legs, F and H. Notice that they do not project
so far inside the box, their length being about 3-1/2 inches. Fasten
these to the figures by paper-fasteners. Next cut out a long strip of
cardboard, A B, 1/2 inch by 14 inches. Pass this through the slits (_p
n_ in Fig. 425) in the short sides of the box. See that it slides easily
up and down in these slits.
The portions marked M and N turn on pivots _h k_ and _m l_. These pivots
pass through holes, D and E, in the figures and through holes made at
each side of the box exactly opposite the short slits. Steel knitting
needles make good pivots, or pieces of cane. When the top is quite
complete these pivots may be glued into the holes in the box for greater
security. Fasten pieces of lead at the bottom of M and N so that the
figures swing easily on the pivots.
When it is found that the pivots are in the right place, pass the strip
of cardboard A B through the slits, and fasten the legs, F and H, to it
by paper-fasteners, as at X and Y. See that the needles are in the right
holes and fasten up the box.
[Illustration: FIG. 424]
[Illustration: FIG. 425]
(It is a convenience in making this toy to let the cover form one side,
the cover being left off until all the inside arrangements are complete;
the pivots can then be put into their holes in the cover, and the cover
put on.)
Now if the projecting ends of A B are pushed backward and forward the
figures fight in a very realistic manner. Notice that A B has two
movements: one backward and forward, the other up and down. The lead
weights in M and N keep A B up. Generally speaking, the longer the slits
are the better the figure works. This, however, does not apply to slits
_c d_ and _g h_. The slits need not be so close together as in the
figure if it is desired that the swordsmen should fight at a greater
distance.
The arms are cut out of cardboard and fastened by paper-fasteners on
each side of the figure; the swords may be cut out with the arms,
or made separately and gummed on after-wards, pieces of cane making
effective swords. A more difficult but more satisfactory way of putting
on the arms is this: pass a very short piece of cane through the hole
in the body, where the arms are to be fastened; see that it turns very
easily in the hole; next seccotine the pieces of cane that project at
each side into holes in the arms; see that one arm is up, the other
down. To make the arms balance well, it may be necessary to fasten a
small piece of lead to one hand.
This toy is most amusing if carefully made. The following hints may be
useful:
(1) Draw and paint the little swordsmen as carefully as possible.
(2) See that the slits are perfectly straight and wide enough for the
cardboard to pass through.
(3) See that the arms, legs and feet turn easily on their pivots,
whether these pivots be paper-fasteners, cane or knitting needles.
(4) See that sufficient lead is attached.
(5) Cover the box neatly with paper, but _not_ the slits. A piece of
green paper looks well for the top.
This toy may also be cut out of wood with a fret-saw. Many other amusing
toys can be made on the same principle.
[Illustration: FIG. 426]
[Illustration: FIG. 427]
[Illustration: FIG. 428]
CHAPTER XX
SOME MORE FRET-SAW TOYS
Besides the numerous models already described that can be made with the
fret-saw, endless further toys might be made, among others the following.
1. =A Zoo or Wild-Beast Show.= The animals for this may be jointed
models like the elephant and giraffe (Part I, Chapter XX); in this case
they will stand quite well; or they may be cut in one piece and glued
to an oblong strip of wood for a stand, as the lion and other beasts
in Figs. 426 to 430. Three-ply wood or satin walnut 1/8 inch thick
is suitable for these animals, which however may also be cut out of
cardboard and glued into slits cut in a wooden stand.
[Illustration: FIG. 429]
2. =Forest, Jungle or Desert Scenes, etc.= (Figs. 431 to 437). These
trees, which have very characteristic shapes, can easily be cut out with
the fret-saw. Where the branches are slender and there is danger of
their breaking, use three-ply wood. They should be painted green, with
the markings indicated in the drawings put in with sepia or dark green.
3. =A Farmyard=, with trees, ducks, cows, etc. Figs. 438 to 443 are
patterns of farmyard animals. There is considerable educational value
in the drawing and cutting out of the simple outlines necessary in
fret-wood trees or animals. It will help children to think in lines, as
it were, and to draw boldly.
[Illustration: FIG. 430]
Teachers will find sets of fret-wood animals and trees of use in the
Nature Study and Geography lessons.
4. =Soldiers, Sailors, Boy Scouts, etc.= Figs. 444 to 447 may be cut out
and glued on stands in the same way.
The small files used for fret-wood are useful to finish and 'clean up'
these toys.
[Illustration: FIG. 431 The Walnut]
[Illustration: FIG. 432 The Palm (Cocoa-nut)]
[Illustration: FIG. 433 The Palm Oil Tree]
[Illustration: FIG. 435
The Spruce Fir]
[Illustration: FIG. 434
The Elm]
[Illustration: FIG. 436
The Lombardy Poplar]
[Illustration: FIG. 437
The Scots Pine]
[Illustration: FIG. 438]
[Illustration: FIG. 439]
[Illustration: FIG. 440]
[Illustration: FIG. 441]
[Illustration: FIG. 442]
[Illustration: FIG. 443]
[Illustration: FIG. 444]
[Illustration: FIG. 445]
[Illustration: FIG. 446]
[Illustration: FIG. 447]
CHAPTER XXI
TOYS WORKED BY SAND
For these toys a wooden box is required, A B C D (Fig. 448), about
a foot or more square and 5 inches deep. L is a wheel made like the
overshot water-wheel in Chapter VI. Another way of making the buckets is
shown in Figs. 449, 450, and 451. These are glued close together between
two circles of cardboard as shown in Fig. 451. This method is somewhat
easier if small wheels are required. The wheel should have ten or more
buckets; the greater the number of buckets, the faster the wheel works.
[Illustration: FIG. 448]
Fig. 452 shows the construction of the reservoir, J, through which the
sand runs. The size of it will depend upon the toy made.
[Illustration: FIG. 449]
[Illustration: FIG. 450]
[Illustration: FIG. 451]
[Illustration: FIG. 452]
F is the flange for fastening it together, and E, D, C, B are flanges
for fastening it to roof A B E F (Fig. 448). A round hole is filed
out at A, after the reservoir is fastened together, through which the
sand runs. The wooden side of box, A B E F, is taken off and a piece
of cardboard is nailed to the box instead. This can have a hole cut in
it, K in Fig. 448, and the reservoir glued under it. G H is a bar of
stripwood nailed across the front of the box, through which a hole,
N, is bored. The axle of the wheel passes through this and through a
corresponding hole in the back of the box. As the sand runs out of the
reservoir, it falls into the boxes and so turns the wheel; hence the
sails of a windmill, the hands of a clock, etc., fastened to axle, L M,
can be made to turn. Notice carefully that the hole at the bottom of the
reservoir should be over the centre of the boxes of the sand-wheel and a
little to one side of the wheel, as in Fig. 448. Part of the back of the
box, P Q R O, should be cut out to allow a tray to go in to receive the
sand.
[Illustration: FIG. 453]
=To make a Bicyclist= (Fig. 453). Cut two circles of cardboard, radius
1-1/4 inches. Mark on them the spokes of a bicycle.
Make two sand-wheels the same size as the bicycle wheels; their width
should be about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch. Take a piece of stripwood 1/2 inch
by 1/4 inch and the length of the box. Make holes in it, 3 inches, 4-1/2
inches and 6 inches from one end. Nail the bar across the box 3 inches
from ground; make holes in the back of the box exactly opposite the
holes in the bar. Make wooden axles to pass right through these holes so
that they turn freely in them. The sand-wheels should be glued to two
of these axles. Now cut out a piece of cardboard to fit over the front
of the box; bore holes in it corresponding to those in the bar, G H.
Paint on it a suitable background, as in Fig. 453. Nail small pieces of
stripwood, 1/2 inch by 1/4 inch, to the corners of the box (as at A and
B in Fig. 453), to which the cardboard can be fastened by drawing-pins
or glue. Pass the axles of the sand-wheels through the first and third
holes from the end of bar G H, and let them project about 1 inch beyond
the cardboard. To these ends the bicycle wheels must be glued. In making
this toy it is better not to fasten pieces together too quickly, until
all the various parts are ready.
The figure of the cyclist should be cut out to the measurements given
for the little gymnast in Chapter XVI. The body and head could be cut
out of thin three-ply wood, and the arms and legs of cardboard. The best
method of joining limbs to the body so that there is the least possible
friction is as follows. Cut off a small piece of a pin, including the
head, pass it through the holes, and apply to the cut end a tiny drop
of sealing wax. Make holes in the cyclist's feet at G (Fig. 454). Cut a
small cardboard wheel, F, about 1/2 inch in diameter: make a hole in its
centre and one near the circumference.
[Illustration: FIG. 454]
Glue a piece of match stick into the hole near the circumference, the
other end of this match stick must turn freely in the hole in cyclist's
left foot. Pass the axle already made through this wheel, to which it
must be glued, and through the cyclist's right foot and through middle
hole in the bar.
Make two small pulley wheels (_e.g._ slices of reels with cardboard
flanges), one twice the size of the other. Fig. 455 shows how the toy is
put together and how it works. A and B are the sand-wheels; axles, F G
and F M, are glued into them and into the two bicycle wheels. K H is the
axle passing through centre of pedal wheel. N O are pulley wheels glued
to axles, F G and H K, respectively, and connected by an elastic band,
E. When sand-wheel, A, turns round, wheel, N, turns and turns pedal
wheel, F, in Fig. 456, and as O is twice as big as wheel N, the pedal
will revolve twice as slowly as the bicycle wheels.
[Illustration: FIG. 455]
Pulleys of equal size, C and D, might be added with advantage to connect
the two sand-wheels, and a handle at F to start the wheels.
Fig. 456 shows how the leg is fastened to the pedal wheel. To keep the
cyclist's body steady cut a piece of stripwood 1" × 1/4" × 1/4". Glue
one end to middle of cyclist's body and the other to the cardboard
background.
B (Fig. 454) is a thin piece of wood, passing over the projecting end
of axle of wheel, E, its other end being glued to the bottom of the
cyclist's body. A similar strip, A, is cut. This is fastened between his
hands by a little piece of pin, and passes over the axle of wheel, D. C
is a thin strip of wood or cardboard which passes over the axle of E and
can be glued to the cyclist's right leg and pass behind wheel, F.
[Illustration: FIG. 456]
Make a platform as in Fig. 453 to support the cyclist. Make two
reservoirs as already described. Cut a piece of cardboard to fit over
the top of box and make holes in it, L and M in Fig. 453. Glue the
reservoirs under these. Make a cardboard tray to fit under the wheels
for the sand to fall in. Another wheel might be added to work the sails
of the windmill in the distance. Very fine sand must be used for working
these toys, the best is silver sand and it should be kept as dry as
possible.
Fig. 457 shows another modification of this toy. B is a box turned
upside down and placed in front of that containing the sand-wheel. A is
the cardboard background, suitably coloured. The sailor's legs are cut
in one piece and glued into a slit in the box. The body is fastened to
them at F by a small paper-clip so that it moves very freely. The arm
is fastened on at G. A small match stick passes through the hole in the
hand and is glued in the hole in circumference of wheel E.
The axle, M N, to which this wheel is glued passes through the cardboard
or wooden standard, D, through a hole in the background, A, and through
the centre of the sand-wheel. D is fixed to the box. The arm of the
crane, C, made of cardboard or three-ply, is glued to D. A hole is made
at G and a corresponding hole in A opposite G. Pass a small stick of
wood or cane, K, through these holes and glue it in. The crane should be
about 1 inch from the background. K keeps the arm of the crane steady.
Tie a piece of cotton to the axle of wheel E, pass it over K or over a
small pulley wheel revolving on K G; tie to it a thin wire hook to which
a paper box or barrel can be fastened.
[Illustration: FIG. 457]
In the same way a sailor can be made to work a windlass and drag a paper
boat up a sloping beach, a man can draw water from a well or turn a
barrel organ, or a paper mouse gummed to a cardboard base can be drawn
along until it disappears into its hole.
[Illustration: FIG. 458]
CHAPTER XXII
TOYS WORKED BY WHEELS, ETC.
Fig. 458 shows how a clown can be mounted on a cart so that when the
cart is drawn along he dances and waves his arms. In toys of this kind,
the wheels should be quite half-an-inch in thickness. They are glued
on to round axles which turn freely in small screw-eyes or in holes in
wooden blocks fastened under the car or cart. If any part of the axle
projects beyond the wheel it gets in the way of the wires. The clown is
made of cardboard or three-ply, according to design given in Chapter
XVI. It is then fastened securely to rod B, and the latter glued into a
hole in the middle of the cart. Fairly strong wire is fastened to the
wheel by a nail with a broad head so that when the wire is looped round
the nail it turns freely on the nail but does not come off. The wire is
bent at right angles twice to bring it close to the figure, as shown at
A. It must fit accurately into the holes in the figure. Notice that one
leg passes on each side of the post.
The clown works best when cut out of wood. In this case the body E
and post B may be cut out in one piece, one leg and one arm are then
attached to the front of the body, and one leg and one arm behind.
Fig. 459 shows a soldier on the march. He is made of three pieces of
wood. Head, body, arms and stand A are cut out in one piece, the legs
are cut out separately and riveted loosely to the body; only two pieces
of wire are needed, one on each side, to work the legs. The gun may be
a piece of wire or wood fixed on after-ward. The wheels are 1/2 inch in
thickness.
Other similar toys worked by wheels can be made by cutting a hole in the
bottom of the cart. One axle of the cart must run exactly under this
hole, it must be made of wire and bent as B C in Fig. 460.
[Illustration: FIG. 459]
D and E are pieces of tin nailed to the cart, through holes in which
axle B C freely turns; or wooden blocks may be nailed on for the
axle to turn in, if tin cannot be obtained. The ends of the axle are
securely fastened into solid wooden wheels. As the wheels revolve
they will push up and down a piece of wire or wooden rod, F, which is
fastened to the bent part of the axle. Now F can be used to work a
number of simple toys, if its free end is fastened to the part which
it is desired to move. For example by this means an animal's mouth may
be made to open and shut as it is wheeled along, or its head to wag;
a blacksmith may be made to strike his anvil, the drummer to beat his
drum. The ingenious child will be able to adapt this simple piece of
mechanism to many a toy.
[Illustration: FIG. 460]
[Illustration: FIG. 461]
=A Lively Dog.= Cut out with a fret-saw two pieces of wood as F in Fig.
461, which represents the body and legs of a dog in one piece. Now cut
out the head H (notice length of neck behind body) and the tail K from
wood 1/4 inch thick.
Now glue the two bodies to a piece of stripwood A (1/2 inch by 1/2 inch)
placed along the tops of bodies inside (Fig. 462), and bevelled so that
the legs of the dog will be further apart than the upper portion. The
legs are joined by pieces of stripwood, M, 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch, about
1-1/2 inches long. Notice that the ends of these strips are bevelled.
Now make hole, E, in the head-piece; notice that there is the same
length of wood above E as below it. Make corresponding holes E in sides
F. Pass a piece of wire through the hole in the dog's head and see how
it hangs; the head portion will be the heavier and sink. Now take the
head off, saw out a piece of wood at B, insert a piece of lead and try
again. It is an easy matter if too much lead has been added to cut off a
little. When the head is correctly balanced, as in Fig. 461, bend over
the wire so that it cannot come off. The tail, K, is attached in the
same way.
[Illustration: FIG. 462]
[Illustration: FIG. 463]
[Illustration: FIG. 464]
Small wheels, N, cut from some convenient round rod are then nailed to
M. The dog should be suitably coloured. When drawn along he wags his
tail and bends his head.
The legs look rather better if cut out separately and glued to the sides.
=The Tumbling Clown or Monkey.= Cut out cardboard or wooden animals
similar to those in Part I, Chapter XX, but use no lead. Now, instead
of swinging them on a perch, make a hole at B where they stand; take a
piece of copper wire, about 1/8 inch thick and 6 inches long.
Bend it slightly as in Fig. 463. Pass the wire through the hole in the
animal, so that the animal fits tightly on it exactly in the middle of
wire.
The animals are best cut out of thick cardboard. Fig. 464 shows a
suitable animal, and the following from Chapter XX--Figs. 256, 257, 259,
263 and 264--can be adapted. As no lead can be used for the purpose to
which we are now going to put them, animals that balance without lead,
as in Fig. 464, are the most suitable. Therefore in designing them, one
must take care that the hole B is exactly at the centre of gravity, and
the bend of body, D (that is widest part of body), just below B.
[Illustration: FIG. 465]
=To make the Monkey tumble.= Cut a piece of wood 12 inches by 2-1/2
inches, and fix parallel bars to this as in Fig. 465. File or cut
notches in the ends at A, to keep the monkey from tumbling off in his
zeal. Now put the wire with the monkey in the middle across one end of
the rails. Push the monkey head over heels and he will go on solemnly
turning over and over, however long the rails are, until he lands in
safety in the notches at the other end. It is the bend in the wire
and carefully balanced body of the monkey that makes him behave so
delightfully.
The longer the stand is the better, for then two or three clowns,
monkeys and cockatoos can follow each other rapidly.
[Illustration: FIG. 466]
The bars must be high enough to allow the monkey to turn without
touching the ground--4-1/2 inches high will just do if length of monkey
from B to C (Fig. 464) is 4-1/2 inches.
Fig. 466 shows two clowns swinging together; a variety of funny figures
can be made to follow each other along the bars.
CHAPTER XXIII
KITES, GLIDERS, AND AEROPLANES
=Kites.= Perhaps one of the easiest kites to make is one which the
children of Annam and Tonking delight to play with. To make it, three
light bamboo canes are required--about 2 feet in length--those used for
flower-sticks will do quite well. Tie them strongly together as in Fig.
467.
[Illustration: FIG. 467]
[Illustration: FIG. 468]
The backbone E F should be quite rigid, but the cross-pieces A B and C D
are better if they are slightly curved. A sheet of light paper must now
be pasted from A B to C D underneath E F in such a way that it is quite
tight under E F, but rather loose between A C and B D.
Fig. 468 shows how the paper should be cut. G H is the exact distance
between E and F; J K and L M are wider than distances between A C and B
D in Fig. 467, so that when the flaps on the paper are pasted over the
cross-bits the paper is loose between A and C and between B and D (Fig.
467). The secret of the balance is to have the flutter at the edges
quite equal. Fig. 467 shows how the string is fastened.
[Illustration: FIG. 469]
[Illustration: FIG. 470(a)]
[Illustration: FIG. 470(b)]
[Illustration: FIG. 471]
[Illustration: FIG. 472]
[Illustration: FIG. 473]
=A Box Kite.= This is a very common form of kite and quite easy to make.
Take four laths from 27 to 30 inches in length and four pieces about 13
inches in length. The smaller pieces are fastened together with nails
and glue, as in Fig. 470 (_a_) and (_b_). To the ends of these the long
pieces are nailed and glued, as in Fig. 470 (_b_). Mark off the long
pieces into thirds and over the two end thirds sew strips of light
material. Tie on the string as shown in Fig. 469. This kite is said to
be an American invention.
A similar kite may be made triangular in form.
Fig. 471 shows another form of the box kite. Here the material covers a
little less than 1/4 of the strip A B. Cross-bars E F and C D are tied
across the middle and to the four sides, and wings are sewn on to them.
Figs. 472 and 473 are modifications of the triangular form of kite. In
both these kites the long strips of wood are from 2-1/2 to 3 feet in
length.
Notice that in Fig. 472, A B is the same length as D E, F G = D H; E H =
about 1/4 of E D.
[Illustration: FIG. 474]
In Fig. 473 A B = C D. C E = about 1/4 of C D. F G equal about 1/3 of
A B. F C = C E. A H and J K are light frames of stripwood covered with
calico. The diagrams show how these kites are put together.
=A Chinese Kite.= The kites used in China are very light and flimsy
compared to our kites, as they are made of tissue paper and bamboo.
In making one it is better to use somewhat stronger paper. The paper is
cut out as in Fig. 474, the two upper sides being slightly shorter than
the two lower. Leave two rectangular pieces A, A, at each end of the
shorter sides. A piece of split bamboo, slightly flattened, is glued
firmly to the paper from B to C. A second piece of bamboo tapering at
the ends is used as a cross-piece D. This is bent as in the figure so
that where it crosses the backbone, B C, it is only a few inches from
the apex, B. It is tied to B C at D. Its tapering ends are pasted down
to the paper by means of the two flaps, A, A. Bamboo B C should not be
more than 1/3 inch in width, piece D, 1/4 inch. To prevent the paper
getting torn in a good breeze, tie fine cotton round the border of the
kite--_i.e._ from B to A, to C, to A, and to B again. Paste a thin
margin of paper over the cotton, enclosing it, and to the kite. This
must be done so that the face of the kite is perfectly flat; it must not
bag in any way.
=To fly the Kite.= Much depends on the way in which the 'belly-band' is
tied on. Its upper string is tied to D, and the lower to the backbone, B
C, almost anywhere below a line from A to A. If the two strings are very
near together, the kite behaves in a more lively manner, darting about
in all directions.
The kite must be coaxed into the air by a series of jerks and pulls when
the apex of the kite is facing upwards. It is inclined to turn round at
first and some patience is required to learn when to pull and when to
jerk. If one pulls at the wrong time it will dart down and then unless
sufficient string is quickly let out, it will fall to the ground.
[Illustration: FIG. 475]
When once the kite is up, it does not keep stationary like an English
kite, but is always darting about; a skilful flyer can make a kite dart
down and almost touch the roof of a house at a great distance off, and
then dart up again almost overhead.
It is not an easy kite to manage, but when once the art of flying it is
mastered it is never forgotten.
=Gliders.= The earliest type of toy flying-machine consisted of a
two-bladed tin propeller spun on a frame by unwinding string, as with
a top, and suddenly let go. It is easily made, as shown in Fig. 475,
where A is a tin propeller nailed by nails C and C to a large reel
B. In making this toy the nails must be driven into the reel first,
their heads are then cut off and they are tightly fitted into holes in
propeller A. D is the axle on which the reel spins and the handle for
holding it; E is a washer. This flying-machine is worked by smartly
pulling a length of string wound around the reel.
[Illustration: FIG. 476]
Modern aeroplanes are far more difficult to make than this; they need
patience, skill and experiment, and besides a knowledge of how to twist
and bend wood by steaming it; plenty of cane and whalebone wire, tissue
paper or fine Japanese silk, and catapult elastic, which is generally
the motive power used in working model aeroplanes. (Messrs Gamage,
Holborn, W.C., stock skeins of specially prepared elastic.)
In this chapter only the simple and well-known types will be very
briefly described, the boy who is interested must get special books on
this subject from his library. In the first place the beginner must know
what the three types of machines used in designing models generally
are--viz. (1) the glider or motorless model, a glider being a winged
structure, which when released from a height does not fall directly
to the ground, but descends gracefully at a gentle slope; (2) the
monoplane, which is constructed more or less on the lines of a bird; and
(3) the biplane or double-winged aeroplane.
Gliders may be either of the monoplane or biplane type. Experiments
with gliders will enable boys to find out some of the principles on
which aeroplanes are built, and will prepare them to undertake the
construction of more difficult forms.
In making one's first glider one cannot do better than copy a bird. On a
piece of paper draw a circle, fold it in half, draw a bird on one half,
as in Fig. 476, cut it out, when the paper is opened it will appear as
in the figure. If this bird is thrown head first toward the ground,
it will probably fall. If two little bits of cardboard are gummed on
each side of his head, he will make a better flight and land on the
ground after making a gentle curve. A still better bird may be cut from
cardboard, a half cut is then made along _a b_ to bend it, and the head
is weighted with sealing-wax. How well this bird flies depends on the
weight, and to some extent on the shape of the bird. Birds of various
shapes and with different amounts of sealing-wax should be tried, until
one is made that glides to the ground in a long, graceful curve.
In making bird gliders the following points should be remembered:
(1) Draw the bird in a circle as already explained, this ensures that
the wings will be exactly balanced.
[Illustration: FIG. 477]
(2) If the head in Fig. 476 is not long enough for a graceful flight, a
longer head cut from cardboard can be pasted on.
(3) If the bird dives quickly down head first, you know that the head is
too heavy, or the neck too long.
(4) If the bird rises and then falls the head is too light and probably
not long enough.
(5) The wings can be made larger if necessary by the addition of
tissue-paper wings gummed on as A in Fig. 477.
[Illustration: FIG. 478]
[Illustration: FIG. 479]
=Another Glider.= Cut out a piece of paper 8 inches by 4 inches, A B C
D in Fig. 478. Mark B E and D F each 1 inch; make cuts along the dark
lines at E and F to the depth of 1 inch. Draw the broken lines along
the paper, dividing it into four equal strips. Bend sides A E and C F
downward along dotted lines. Bend E B and F D upward along middle dotted
lines, and press side C F toward side A E, part way along this line,
but leaving the part near the ends A C flat; to this end plane K will
be gummed (Fig. 479). K is 6 inches by 1 inch. Cut tail, G, and gum on
as in diagrams. It can be weighted at H by gumming several strips of
cardboard across or by affixing sealing-wax. Although this is not a very
graceful-looking glider it works most successfully, and will describe
quite a graceful curve toward the ground.
The child will find it interesting to make a number of these gliders
and then go one day to a window or high place and let them glide to the
ground and thus find out the bird that has the longest flight. Or a
number of children can have glider races and see who can make a glider
that alights on the ground farthest from them. Other forms of gliders
can be made, but they are all on the same principle, a somewhat long
body, wings and weight adjusted to keep them from falling.
Fig. 480 shows a glider made from a dowel rod, with slits in it at each
end through which two cardboard planes are passed and fastened. The
cardboard must be of light weight and yet stiff enough not to flap. The
size of the planes must be found by experiment, for their size will
depend naturally upon the weight of the material used. The bigger plane
should be in length about twice the smaller one. It is best to fasten
the large plane on first and then adjust the smaller one to give a long,
graceful flight.
If a split pole can be found it is an easy matter to fasten the planes
in. Canes (bamboo) split readily and can be used as centre pole.
This glider can fairly easily be made into an aeroplane and worked
with a propeller. It may be mentioned here that model aeroplanes are
generally worked with the propeller in front and not in the rear.
=To make Propellers.= These can be made of tin or wood. A tin propeller
can be cut from any old tin with a pair of shears or strong scissors
kept for the purpose. Cut two blades to the shape shown in Fig. 481.
Next cut an oblong block of wood (Fig. 482); notice that width _a b_ in
Fig. 482 must equal _a b_ in Fig. 481, therefore width of _a b_ must be
a little less than _a b_ in Fig. 481. Slit each end diagonally as in
Fig. 482 for about 1/2 inch to hold the blades. Drill a hole through
centre of block for the wire axle _d c_. Insert the blades in the slots,
bend the ends over slightly and nail them in the wood to keep them firm.
Fix the wire shaft firmly in the block as in Fig. 482. The propeller is
now ready to be attached to the glider.
Before this is done, however, we shall consider the making of a wooden
propeller. This is rather more difficult to make. Cut a piece of wood
to the shape shown in Fig. 483 with a sharp pen-knife. The propeller
must then be given the correct twist by means of the steaming kettle.
Take hold of the extreme ends of the propeller and hold it over the jet
of steam so that steam plays upon the blades at each side of the thick
central portion.
[Illustration: FIG. 480]
[Illustration: FIG. 481]
[Illustration: FIG. 482]
[Illustration: FIG. 483]
[Illustration: FIG. 484]
[Illustration: FIG. 485]
[Illustration: FIG. 486]
When the wood is supple, twist it as in Fig. 484. This sounds easier
to do than it really is, the difficulty being to get the twist on one
side exactly equal to the twist on the other. For this reason the tin
propellers are more satisfactory to make. However suppose the correct
twist has been given, the next thing to do is to sand-paper the wooden
propeller carefully and file a groove around the middle at A; now wrap
a piece of wire, A C, tightly around the propeller in this central
groove, and put on the head, B. The propeller is now ready to be
fastened to the glider shown in Fig. 480.
=To fasten Propeller to Glider.= Cut a piece of tin to the pattern shown
in Fig. 485, bend along the dotted line; make a hole at F for axle, B C,
to go through. Bend portion E round the front end of the glider, keep it
in its place by bending it with thread coated with glue; portion F with
the hole is bent down at right angles as shown in Fig. 486. Now pass
axle, A C, through hole F, bend end C into a hook. Put screw-eye D in
the rod about one-third of length of rod from the other end (see Fig.
486). Fasten strands of elastic from hook C to D. It is best really to
have a hook at D so that the elastic can be slipped over. The strands
should be just loose enough to remain taut when unwound. When the
propeller is in position the planes will probably have to be readjusted.
The tin propeller can be attached in a similar way. These propellers
will do for almost any simple design of aeroplanes.
When the motor is wound up for flight, the number of turns to give to
the propeller will depend upon the strength and number of the elastic
strands used. About a hundred turns is a usual number. Throw the motor
forward in a slightly downward direction; because it is a glider it will
tend to follow a gentle curve to the ground at first, but the whirling
propeller will tend to carry it forward and upward. The first attempts
may be failures, but these models are well worth many trials.
=The Hawk Aeroplane= (Fig. 487) is a common flying toy worked as the
above by elastic. Cut two blocks of wood, A, A´; make holes in them as
shown. Into the square holes fix and glue two square rods C. Through A´
bore a hole for the piece of cane, B B´, to pass through. F is a wire
spindle with a hook at one end for elastic; it passes through the hole
in block A´, through two beads, and through a piece of cork, F, into
which it must be fixed. K is a piece of cane bent as in diagram, passing
through a hole in cork, H. The bend is more _permanent_ if the cane is
held to the spout of a boiling kettle; the ends of K should be slightly
warped in opposite directions. Into block A another wire hook is fixed
and bands of elastic are passed over this hook and the opposite one, as
in the diagram; the more bands the better.
The cane B B´ is bent round at each end and fastened to the wooden
rods, C C, by thread. The cane, K K, is fastened by thread as in the
diagram; the thread can pass through a hole in the cork. Spaces T, T,
T, T are covered with thin tissue paper gummed to thread and cane by
means of overlapping edges. The model is wound up and set going like the
previous one. Care must be taken to have it properly balanced, and it
must be made as light as possible; the blocks A, A´ may very well be cut
from cork. Light bamboo cane can be used for posts, C C. At its best,
however, the Hawk Aeroplane is not so good a flyer as the first model
described.
[Illustration: FIG. 487]
An ambitious and clever boy who has once grasped the principles on which
flying-machines are made can think out many models for himself and copy
some of the more elaborate ones. The biplane makes a very effective toy,
but is omitted here because it is somewhat difficult to construct.
CHAPTER XXIV
MORE OLD-FASHIONED TOYS
=Jacob's Ladder.= This is a very old and ingenious puzzle and an amusing
toy. It is very simply made. A number of blocks of wood must be made, 4"
× 2-1/2" × 3/8". Any number may be used, but not less than seven; twelve
is a very good number.
[Illustration: FIG. 488]
[Illustration: FIG. 489]
Round the edges of the blocks and make them smooth with sand-paper, as
in Fig. 488. Cut strips of tape about 1/4 inch wide and long enough to
go over the rounded ends of the blocks, _a_, _b_, _b_, etc., in Fig.
488. There are three tapes to each block. Nail and glue tape _a_ to the
centre of upper end of block A; it is then brought over and downward
under the middle of the lower end of block B and fastened.
Tapes _b b_ are now fastened to the opposite end of A about 1/4 inch
from the end on either side, and are then brought round the opposite end
of B, as shown in the diagram. The centre tape _c_ is fastened to B and
then brought down underneath to centre of the opposite end of C. The
tapes must be arranged like this throughout the whole set of blocks.
[Illustration: FIG. 490]
Fig. 489 shows how the blocks are held when they are all complete. Top
block A must be turned so as to bring the second block to the same
level. The top of this block then falls, and it appears to pass rapidly
down first on one side and then on the other, until it reaches the
bottom. This is only what _seems_ to happen. What really happens is that
the second block becomes reversed and falls back again, in its former
position. This makes it come level with the third block, which at once
falls over on the fourth, and so on to the end of the ladder. A very
illusive effect is thus produced. The blocks might be coloured with some
bright enamel paint, contrasting colours on opposite sides.
=The Trellis Toy= (Fig. 490). The strips of wood for this toy should be
as thin as possible. They are fastened together at points 1, 2, 3, 4,
etc., by small pieces of wire, or by rivets bent down to prevent their
slipping off, but not too tightly, so that the toy works easily. Heads
can be cut out of cardboard painted and glued to the wood. Strips A and
B should be wider at one end and have holes made in them for handles.
=A Running Mouse.= This toy is made of fret-wood, two ordinary reels and
elastic.
Choose two reels of about 1-1/2 inches in length, diameter about 1 inch.
Cut out a piece of wood, A, to measurements given (Fig. 491). With a
fret-saw cut out the head (Fig. 492); slit B is a little wider than the
thickness of the wood, so that the head wags about very easily when
wired to the body (Fig. 494). Cut out four legs as in Fig. 493. The
reels work behind these so that the shape of the leg partly hides them.
Nail the back legs to the body as shown in Fig. 494. Make a round axle
to fit one of the reels so that it turns easily on it; cut it the exact
length of the distance between the two back legs, pass it through the
reel and glue its ends, C, to the legs so that the reel comes slightly
below the legs and can run along easily. Now make holes, D, in the front
legs, and nail them to the body so that holes D are on a level with the
axle C. Make a hole through the body A, midway between the front legs,
through which the string, E, will pass. Make holes in the other reel and
insert wire staples at each end as in Fig. 495. Fasten to and wind round
the reel about a yard of string. Pass rubber bands through each staple
(F in Fig. 495) and through the holes D in the front legs and knot on
the outside. Pass the string through the hole in A (Fig. 496).
=To fasten Head on.= Make two holes in the head exactly over each other,
G and H in Fig. 492. Slip the head on to the body and make a hole
through the body, between holes G and H, as shown in Fig. 497. Bend a
piece of wire as in Fig. 498, distance between bent ends being equal to
distance between holes G and H; slip the wire through the hole in the
body, pass the ends of the wire through holes G and H, then bend the
ends over to the position shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 498; the
mouse's head will then swing from side to side. Make a hole in end at L
(Fig. 494) and insert a tail of thick string. A piece of wood, M, shaped
as in Fig. 494, may be glued along part of the body, A, a little to one
side so as not to interfere with string, E. The whole may be suitably
coloured.
[Illustration: FIG. 491]
[Illustration: FIG. 492]
[Illustration: FIG. 493]
[Illustration: FIG. 494]
[Illustration: FIG. 495]
[Illustration: FIG. 496]
[Illustration: FIG. 497]
[Illustration: FIG. 498]
[Illustration: FIG. 499]
[Illustration: FIG. 500]
The toy works in this way. If it is placed on the floor and the string
held, the weight of the toy will make the twine unwind, thus causing the
elastic which supports the reel to twist. When the string is slackened,
the elastic will untwist again, making the reel revolve and the toy run
along the ground.
Figs. 499 and 500 show a black beetle that can be made in the same way;
the antennæ may be made of wire. Other suitable animals are a lizard and
a crocodile.
[Illustration: FIG. 501]
[Illustration: FIG. 502]
[Illustration: FIG. 503]
=A Hygroscope.= The cottage is made of thin wood about 1/8 inch to 3/8
inch in thickness, according to measurements given in Fig. 501. The
sides are about 3-1/2 inches. The platform or floor on which it stands,
6-1/2 inches by 4 inches. The sides of the roof are 4 inches by 4
inches, so that it projects slightly.
The doors in front are 1-1/4 inches wide and 3 inches high, and are
cut out with the fret-saw; about half-an-inch of the partition between
the doors is cut away to allow the disc on which the figures stand to
swing round. Cut with fret-saw a circular disc of wood 1/8 inch thick,
diameter 3 inches. Drill a hole through the centre and fit into it quite
tightly a piece of wire bent into a loop as shown in Fig. 502. Drill a
hole in the floor of the cottage, about an inch from the middle of the
partition. The wire axle should fit into this so that it turns easily,
but not too loosely, otherwise the disc on which the figures stand will
wobble. Just over this hole there must be another hole in the roof.
This can be made by filing, with round fret-saw file, a little hollow
(Fig. 503) in each of the top sides of the roof, so that when they come
together a hole is formed. The back, sides, floor and roof may now be
nailed and glued together. Next cut out from three-ply wood with the
fret-saw two little figures as in Fig. 501; they should be about 2
inches to 2-1/4 inches, and should be suitably coloured. These are glued
to the wooden disc.
The disc is hung from the roof by a piece of catgut; a knot is made at
the end to prevent it slipping through, the other end being tied to the
wire loop; the wire passes through the hole in the floor. The catgut
must be long enough to allow the disc to turn round completely on its
axis. Four pieces of wood or four small reels are glued to the corners
of the floor to prevent the wire axle from touching the ground. The
front must not be put on until the model is found to work correctly. To
do this, hang the disc so that it is parallel to the ground, and so that
both figures are looking out of their respective doors; then tie the
knot at the top and wait for a change of weather.
Supposing on a damp day the cricketer comes forward and the boy in
mackintosh and sou'wester retires indoors, this is because the catgut is
twisting the wrong way, therefore the end that is fastened to the roof
must be fastened to the wire loop, and vice versa. Now the front can
be glued on. It can be suitably painted, showing door-posts, windows,
bricks, etc.
=Why the Hygroscope works.= Catgut has the peculiar property of
absorbing moisture from the air and twisting up and becoming shorter;
when the air is dry it untwists to its original length; the damper the
air the greater is the amount of the twist. Hence in the model, as the
catgut twists and untwists according to the state of the atmosphere, the
little figures swing in and out of the cottage doors.
CHAPTER XXV
LIFT, PONT ROULANT, TOWER BRIDGE
[Illustration: FIG. 504]
=A Lift.= There are a variety of ways of making a lift. One of the
simplest is shown in this chapter. The first essential is a wooden box,
oblong if possible, so that there can be many floors. The measurements
given in this chapter are for quite a small model made from a shallow
oblong box, 9-1/2 inches by 14-3/4 inches, and about 2-1/2 inches in
depth.
Sand-paper the inside and cover it with some pretty paper. Mark off
distances A C and B D (Fig. 504) equal to 2-1/2 inches; rule lines A B
and C D along the bottom of the box; glue pieces of stripwood 1/4 inch
by 1/2 inch (A B and C D in Fig. 504) along the bottom of the box for
the lift to run up and down between.
The lift is made next. Cut two pieces of wood 2-1/2 inches by 2-1/4
inches; nail to the corners of one piece four pieces of stripwood, 1/4"
× 1/4" × 3". Fasten the other piece of wood to these four posts by means
of screw-eyes. Now leave the lift for a while.
Cut two pieces of cardboard, A B E F and C D H G, to divide the box into
three long divisions, as in Fig. 504. See that they project 1/4 inch
beyond the box. Divide these strips into three parts and draw and cut
out doors as in the diagram; the line for the floors must, of course,
be well above the top of the lift, while the height of the doors must
correspond to that of the lift. Now glue these strips of cardboard to
the pieces of stripwood A B and C D as in diagram; see that the doors
open into the rooms on each side, and not into the lift.
See that the lift runs easily up and down between the cardboard strips;
sand-paper it if it does not.
Make four holes in the top of the box, _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_ in Fig. 505.
Tie thread or black yarn to the screw-eyes, cross it and pass it through
the holes as in the figure, then pass the four cables through screw-eye
K. When the lift is on the ground, pull the strings taut and tie a knot
below the screw-eye. The lift can be raised by means of winding gear
attached to the side as described in Chapter V, on the crane; the weight
of the lift will pull it down again, or if this is not enough it can be
weighted with lead.
Fig. 505 shows another way of working the model. Screw-eyes can be
fastened to the bottom of the lift and thread tied to them as before;
these threads must pass through four holes in the bottom of the box,
through a hole in the support L M and through screw-eye Q; the bottom
strings are then knotted to the top strings at R, and the lift can be
lowered and raised by moving knot R up and down.
The supports N P and L M are made of pieces of stripwood 1/2 inch by 1/4
inch.
[Illustration: FIG. 505]
[Illustration: FIG. 506]
Cut a door out of cardboard as shown in Fig. 506 and glue it over the
front of the lift. (In Fig. 506 the dotted lines are half cuts, the
black lines are cut.)
Nail strips of wood 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch, E F and H G, in front of the
lift and glue the pieces of cardboard to them. They keep the lift from
falling forward. If the lift is moved up and down, as shown in Fig. 505,
it is best for it to fit fairly tightly so that it stays into whatever
position it is pulled.
Cardboard floors, 1, 2, 3, 4 (Fig. 504), are added, and kept in position
by pieces of stripwood.
The rooms on each side can be furnished according to taste and according
to their size. The lift itself may be finished off with advertisements,
directions to travellers, etc., according as it is intended for use in a
railway station, a hotel, a store, etc.
This toy, although so simply made, is very effective.
=Pont Roulant at Saint-Malo.= This is a pretty model to make. First
glue four pieces of stripwood, 3/8" × 1/8" × 4-1/2", together (A A A A
in Fig. 507). Nail and glue to the corners of this framework four round
rods, 10-1/4 inches long and 1/4 inch in diameter. Dowel rods such as
these are somewhat difficult to nail on; however, should the wood of the
little frame split, or the hole in the dowel rod be made too large for
the nail, and so make the structure unsteady, the discs of cork (C in
Fig. 507), which have a hole filed in the middle of them and are glued
to the rods and the framework, help to consolidate the whole. Similar
discs of cork are placed round the middle of rods, B, and at the tops of
the rods. These serve to hold the black yarn which rigs the structure.
The pieces of cork at the top have the additional advantage of making
a steadier base for the platform to rest on. If the poles are not all
cut exactly the same length, the discs of cork can be raised above the
shorter poles and the platform on top made perfectly horizontal. These
cork discs also give a larger surface to glue the platform to. Instead
of dowel rods, iron wire 1/8 inch in diameter can be used. These wire
rods must have cork discs on them like the wooden rods, but they must be
glued into holes in the lower framework and in the platform.
Having fixed the rods in position, thread is tied underneath a bottom
piece of cork (C^5 in diagram), passed over the top of rod B^3 and kept
there by the cork disc at the top, round the bottom of post B^4 and
under the bottom cork, over the next post and so on, so that the threads
cross each other as in the diagram. Thread is also tied round the middle
of the rods just above corks C^1, C^2, C^3, and C^4. Thread is also tied
from C^2 to C^3, and C^1 to C^4.
Pieces of stripwood, 3/8" × 1/8" × 4-1/2", are glued across the frame A
A A A. Next the platform has to be made; this is a piece of wood 8-1/2
inches square and 1/8 inch in thickness. Before gluing it on to the
four posts it is best to make and fasten to it the cabin, railings, etc.
[Illustration: FIG. 507]
[Illustration: FIG. 508]
The cabin, E, in the middle is 3 inches square and 2 inches high; it is
cut out of cardboard. Flanges must be left for gluing it to platform,
and for gluing the roof to it. Doors and windows are drawn round it or
cut out. The cabin is then glued in the middle of platform D.
The roof is a piece of cardboard 3-1/4 inches by 8-1/2 inches. Fig. 508
shows how it is cut out, half cuts are made along the dotted lines, and
G, K, H, M are bent up to form the ornaments G, K, H, M in Fig. 507.
The roof is glued to the top of cabin, E, and to the tops of posts, N,
which are pieces of stripwood 1/4" × 1/4" × 2".
Triangular pieces of cardboard are glued in the corners, as P in Fig.
507.
[Illustration: FIG. 509]
The railings are 1 inch high; they can either be made of strips of
cardboard 1 inch by 8-1/2 inches supported at the corners and in the
middle by pieces of stripwood 1/4" × 1/4" × 1", with criss-cross lines
drawn on them, or be made as in Fig. 509, where A B and C D are strips
of cardboard 1/4 inch wide, F is stripwood 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch, and 1,
2, 3, etc., are parts of match sticks glued to the cardboard strips.
Seats can be placed round the railings, and round the cabin where there
are no doors.
A piece of stripwood, R, 1/2" × 1/2" × 1-1/2", is cut and filed as in
Fig. 507 and glued to the middle of the roof.
The platform is then glued to the tops of the posts with their
surrounding corks. The frame, A A A A, is mounted on wheels 1-1/8 inches
in diameter and 1/4 inch in width. The axles are pieces of stripwood 1/4
inch by 1/4 inch, to which the frame A A is glued.
The rails on which it runs (_a b_ in Fig. 507) are made in a similar
manner to those described in Chapter XIII, for the transporter bridge.
It is pulled along by thread tied to screw-eyes X and Y, and wound up by
winding gear similar to that described in Chapter XIII.
[Illustration: FIG. 510]
Fig. 510 shows how high tide can be represented by means of boxes and
cardboard; D, E, F are boxes which form a quay into which the car runs.
A, B, C are pieces of cardboard resting on pieces of stripwood glued to
boxes D, E, F, and similar boxes on the other side, or the cardboard
can rest on boxes. If boxes cannot be found big enough for D, E and F,
several boxes can be built up. Slots _a b_ and _c d_ must be left wide
enough for the supports to pass freely, and the threads must be omitted
at front and back. The rails must lie exactly under slots _a b_ and _c
d_. The pieces of cardboard A, B and C should be coloured blue. The
thread from the car underneath the "water" can pass into box F and up
through a hole in the top, where the winding gear can be placed, but, of
course, it can be worked from below. Sheets of cardboard A and C can be
surrounded by boxes or fastened in a large box, or have cardboard walls
built around it.
=Tower Bridge.= A very simple and effective model of Tower Bridge can be
made, which will prove a delightful plaything.
The measurements given in this chapter need not be followed, but the
bridge can be made larger or smaller according to taste. The whole
structure can be of wood or of wood and cardboard.
Two small boxes are required, made of wood 1/4 inch thick, about 4
inches in length, breadth and height. (If such small boxes cannot be
found they must be made.)
Take off one side of box, A B C D in Fig. 511, which shows the
mechanism of the toy. Into the edges D F and C E screw two small
screw-eyes, G and H, about 1/4 inch from the top.
[Illustration: FIG. 511]
Now cut a piece of wood 8-1/4 inches long for the bridge. The width of
bridge _a b_ must be equal to width of interior of box. For the present
model it will be 3-1/2 inches.
The wood used for the bridge should be about 1/8 inch thick.
Now rule a line 5-3/4 inches from end _a b_. On this line screw in two
small screw-eyes, K and L, of the same size as screw-eyes G and H. The
axle, M N, may be either iron wire (in which case the bridge may work
rather loosely) or, what is better, a wooden rod that just fits the
screw-eyes. Whichever axle is chosen cork discs should be placed at
each end to prevent it slipping out. Before the bridge is fastened on,
screw-eyes O and P are screwed in it near the end _c d_. Screw-eye P
must be far enough from the edge _b d_ to clear screw-eye R when the
bridge is upright. The same with screw-eye O.
A piece of strong thread is tied to screw-eye P, passed through
screw-eye R, and through a hole in the drawbridge above screw-eye R, but
clear of axle, M N. A similar piece of thread is tied to screw-eye O,
passed through Q, and through a hole in the bridge.
Now cover up top, A B C D, with a piece of cardboard, but do not bring
this quite up to B C, in order not to interfere with the working of the
bridge. Make holes in the cardboard for the strings to pass through.
Then cover up the front portion, D C F E, below the bridge with
cardboard.
The tower (Fig. 512) must next be made. This is formed of one piece of
cardboard: height, _a b_, 9 inches; width, _c d_, 3-1/4 inches.
In the sides facing the bridge large openings, E, are cut about 2-1/2
inches high.
Small openings, F and G, about 1-1/2 inches high and 3/4 inch broad,
are cut for the overhead foot bridges. These are made of long pieces
of cardboard 2 inches broad, bent in three divisions to form the path
and sides. The latter are marked to represent railings. They should be
long enough to pass well inside the tower through openings F and G, and
through the corresponding openings in the opposite tower. They can be
glued into position by pieces of stripwood or left movable.
A door, A, should be made in the top of the tower and a platform put in
to make a compartment for working the bridge. The pieces of thread are
brought up through holes in this platform and fastened to rod B, which
passes through holes in sides of tower, and is kept from slipping out by
cork discs. When this rod is turned the bridge will rise or fall.
If a large model is being made a proper little windlass with a handle
can be constructed inside the upper room of the tower. The threads pass
up on each side of the tower so as not to interfere with the "traffic"
passing under the arch of the bridge. The tower is fastened up with
flanges and glued to the wooden box with the help of small blocks of
wood. A square pyramid is placed on the top of the tower, and the whole
is suitably coloured. A picture of the real Tower Bridge is a great help
when finishing off the model.
A similar bridge and tower are made for the other side.
[Illustration: FIG. 512]
To keep the wooden boxes the right distance apart (that is, so that
bridge X just touches bridge Y) nail or glue them to a long strip of
wood painted blue. There is, however, no need to fasten them permanently.
The ingenious toy-maker will find a hundred ways of improving this toy.
There are many additions that can be made if a picture of the Tower
Bridge is consulted; cardboard paths can lead to bridge X, round the
outside of the tower; railings can be added to bridges X and Y (but
see that they are not in the way when the bridge goes up!), and so on.
The method of raising and lowering the bridges is capable of a number
of modifications. It should be the pleasant business of the maker to
improve this model, and not be content with too slavishly following the
directions given.
Bridges are among the most interesting things in the world, and there
are countless happy hours in front of the little toy-maker who sets to
work to collect pictures and written accounts of bridges, and who tries
to imitate these.
CHAPTER XXVI
SOLDERING. SCREW STEAMER. TOYS WORKED BY WIND AND BY CONVECTION CURRENTS
=Soldering.= A knowledge of soldering makes many more toys possible,
besides being a useful acquirement in itself. The following are the
materials needed:
1. A soldering iron (Fig. 513). This can be bought for sixpence at
any ironmonger's. It is best to get one not too long in the stem, as
otherwise it is difficult to hold it steady.
2. A strip of soft solder, price about three-halfpence.
3. Soldering fluid or flux. This can be made at home from a pennyworth
of spirits of salt (from an oil shop). Put a little of the spirits into
a separate bottle and drop a few scraps of zinc into it. When it has
stopped "fizzing" it is ready for use.
4. A pennyworth of resin.
5. A piece of sheet tin.
Soldering is not nearly so difficult as people think. There is one
thing really essential for its success, and that is unlimited patience
in cleaning the metal surfaces to be joined together. Solder will not
adhere to dirty metal. The surfaces must be thoroughly scraped and
cleaned with an old knife, then filed, rubbed with emery-cloth and
protected by a coating of flux. The flux required for use should be kept
in a shallow dish (_e.g._ a meat-paste jar), to prevent it being upset;
it can be put on with a small brush.
The copper bit of the soldering iron must be covered with a thin film
of solder before any soldering is done; this is to ensure that it is
perfectly free from dirt or dust. This process is called "tinning the
bit." It is quite simple. Heat the iron to a dull red heat, not quite
red hot, as the solder would otherwise be destroyed. Then quickly file
the four faces of the point to remove any dirt or oxide that may have
got on it and which would prevent the solder from sticking to the bit.
Next dip the bit for a second or two in the soldering fluid and melt
off a drop of solder on to the piece of sheet tin on which is put a
little piece of resin. Turn the point of the bit round and round in the
melted solder until it is completely coated. It is very important that
the soldering iron should at no time be overheated, as this tinning
would be burnt off; nor can it be repeated too often that the surfaces
to be joined must be thoroughly cleaned; failure to do this is in most
cases the cause of unsuccessful soldering.
[Illustration: FIG. 513]
[Illustration: FIG. 514]
To solder handle A to B (Fig. 514). Thoroughly clean that part of B to
which A is to be fastened, and handle A, rubbing the edges of A with
emery-cloth. Place A on B and rub a little flux with a brush along the
join. Dip the bit into the flux and drop a spot or two of solder on the
edges by applying the heated iron to the end of the strip of solder.
Apply the bit to the solder and trail the solder with the point of the
hot iron round the join so that it is filled up.
A little practice will soon enable this to be done successfully, and the
skill thus acquired makes the following toy possible.
=A Steamer with a Screw Propeller.= Fig. 515 shows the size and shape of
the steamer. It should be about 4 inches wide amidships, 3-1/2 inches
deep, and hollowed out as thin as possible, according to directions
given in Chapter XIV. Fig. 516 shows the measurements for the stern. The
bows should be sharp.
This boat must be fairly large to take the tube which runs through it.
Fasten a strip of lead 1/8 inch thick to the bottom of the keel. Paint
the boat a suitable colour. When it is dry place it in the water and
mark on the stern-post, A B (Fig. 516), the height to which the water
comes, for the propeller must come just below this. Midway between this
point and the end of the keel bore a hole, C, in the stern-post, through
the boat in the direction of the top of the bow. This hole should be 3/8
inch wide and can be made with a red-hot wire.
A brass tube must now be bought from a gasfitter's, 3/8 inch
[Illustration: FIG. 515]
[Illustration: FIG. 516]
[Illustration: FIG. 517]
[Illustration: FIG. 518]
[Illustration: FIG. 519]
[Illustration: FIG. 520]
[Illustration: FIG. 521]
[Illustration: FIG. 522]
[Illustration: FIG. 523] outside measurement, and long enough to reach
from C to about 3-1/2 inches beyond the end of the bow. Now cut a piece
of tin 3/4 inch wide and 2 inches long. Bend the middle of it round the
tube and the ends outward (Fig. 517). Punch holes in each end. Solder
this strip round the tube about 4-1/2 inches from one end. At this end
file four teeth, about 1/8 inch deep, as in Fig. 518. Now push the end
that is not filed through the hole in the stern from the inside of the
boat, so that it is flush with the wood, and fasten the other end to the
stem of the boat by driving small nails through the holes in the strip
of tin into the boat. To prevent water entering the boat put some putty
round the tube where it passes through the wood. Before fastening the
tube in the boat, round out the end of the bow slightly so that the tube
will rest securely on it without projecting too much above the gunwale.
Make the deck and fix it as described in Chapter XIV. Bore a hole, D,
in Fig. 516, near the stern right through the deck so that it comes out
under the counter about 1 inch from the stern-post. It should be large
enough for a piece of stout wire to pass through. This is for the rudder.
=To make the Rudder.= Cut a piece of brass wire about 1/16 inch thick,
6-1/4 inches long. Cut the rudder out of tin and shape as in Fig. 519.
Solder it on to the wire so that the end of the rudder is flush with
the end of the wire. Pass the wire through the hole, D, and bend as in
Fig. 519. Cut a strip of tin about 1/3 inch in width, punch holes in it,
point the ends, bend them over and fasten them into the deck so that
the strip is under the bend, E, of the tiller. Press the tiller over
and into one of these holes; thus the rudder can be held firm in its
required position for steering.
In the middle of the deck cut a hole about 3/4 inch in diameter for the
funnel, which is a tube of tin about 4 inches long.
=The Propeller.= Cut a circle of tin 2 inches in diameter and inscribe a
hexagon; cut as in Fig. 520, the shaded portions being cut away.
Punch a hole in the centre and into this fix, by soldering, a piece of
brass wire (1/16 inch thick), 2 inches long, to form an axle. Warp the
fans of the propeller out of the plane of the circle about 1/4 inch.
Make two pieces of wood shaped as in Fig. 521. Bore a hole through each
and by filing with a small round fret-saw file enlarge it to 1/16 inch.
Put a glass bead, F (Fig. 522), on wire of propeller, and put the wire
through one of the pieces of wood, bend the end into a small hook. Take
another piece of wire, pass it through the second piece of wood and bend
it as in Fig. 523. Now take a piece of strong elastic, 1/4 inch wide
and about 3-1/2 feet long; tie the ends together. This must be passed
through the tube in the boat. To do this, tie a piece of string to the
elastic, and drop the string through the tube from the stern end, and by
means of the string pull the elastic through, first hooking one end of
it to the hook on the propeller wire, Fig. 522. Then push the piece of
wood, G, into the tube, so that the screw clears the rudder. Now hook
wire, H (Fig. 523), into the elastic, and push wood, K, into tube. The
wood must be cut away so that the handle, M, can catch in the teeth of
the tube.
To make the boat work, hold the propeller steady with one hand and wind
up the elastic by the handle, M; put the handle in one of the teeth to
keep the elastic twisted; set the rudder, put the boat into the water,
let go the propeller and the boat will go on until the elastic is
unwound. Instead of one band of elastic, several thinner bands may be
used, and more motive power can thus be obtained.
=Toys worked by the Wind.= Cut out of fret-wood (1/8 inch thick), or
three-ply wood, a man reading a paper with one foot raised and resting
on a box.
The man should be about 5-3/4 inches and his raised foot 1 inch from the
ground, as in Fig. 524. The shoeblack is cut out in three pieces. First
the kneeling portion, A (Fig. 525), is cut 2 inches high and a hole made
at _b_; then the head with part of the arm to the elbow attached, as H
in Fig. 526, about 1-3/4 inches high, and with holes at _d_ and _e_;
then the hand (with long shoe-brush) and arm to elbow, as K in Fig. 527;
make a hole at _f_. Length of K 2-1/4 inches.
Now join K to H by wire or a rivet through holes _f_ and _e_, so that it
swings loosely, then join H to A by a wire through holes _d_ and _b_.
Colour these two figures suitably.
The base on which the figures rest is a piece of wood about 12 inches
by 3 inches. The next thing to be made is the mechanism that works the
figures. First cut a piece of stripwood 1/4" × 1/4" × 7", A in Fig. 524.
The fan or propeller, B, is made by cutting a small circular piece of
wood or cork about 1 inch in diameter and securely fixing round it five
wind flaps as shown. These flaps are best made of tin.
[Illustration: FIG. 524]
[Illustration: FIG. 525]
[Illustration: FIG. 526]
[Illustration: FIG. 527]
[Illustration: FIG. 528]
Now get a piece of stout copper wire (about 1/16 inch thick), D in
Fig. 524, and bend it as in diagram. The best way to effect this bend
is first to make a sort of elongated =U=, as in Fig. 528; this can be
done with pincers. Then put part A in a vice and bend B C and D E out
at right angles. Cut it the right length so that the bend will come on
a level with the shoeblack's brush and one end will come above post, A.
The wire, D, should be pointed or well smoothed with a file at the lower
end, so that it will turn easily on a piece of glass glued to the base.
Wire D is supported by two wire hoops or screw-eyes placed in post A.
The holes through which it passes must not be too large or it will
wobble and not turn smoothly. Now all the parts are ready for putting
together. Glue the shoeblack on first, then opposite to him the man. See
that the brush passes over the shoe. If for any reason this does not
happen, a larger brush can be cut from wood or cardboard and pasted over
the shoeblack's hand. Now fasten post A behind the man so that the bend
of the wire, D, will be in the right position; pass wire, D, through the
wire loops or hooks (these are best made of copper wire); glue the top
of it into the hole in the propeller. Glue a piece of glass, E, under
the other end. Connect by a thin piece of wire the shoeblack's brush
with bend in D. The figure will now work well in the wind.
The shoeblack is the toy one most often sees worked in this way. A man
sawing wood is another favourite model, and can be made in exactly the
same way.
Two knights fighting can also be made; this involves, however, two
propellers.
=Toys worked by Convection Currents.= These are less interesting toys
because they do not admit of much variety. The toy is worked over a gas
burner, where it acts as a ceiling protector. As the power available
from convection currents is very slight, every care must be taken that
the figure will work smoothly.
As the toy is exposed to heat, the soldering must be well done. Fig. 529
shows how the toy is made.
The little sailor is cut out of sheet metal (tinned plate); his limbs
are fixed by means of rivets or eyelets (the latter are obtainable at a
boot repairer's). Take care that they move freely. They will do so if
the holes are very smooth. The wire used is steel wire about 1/16 inch;
this is fairly easy to bend.
Wire A B is bent as already described in the shoeblack. It passes
through loops in the wire at A and D. It is kept from slipping through
at A by a ring of wire soldered on the top.
[Illustration: FIG. 529]
The propeller at B is simply a tin disc with radial cuts, each sector
being twisted at an angle by a pair of pliers. The propeller is held by
a turn in the wire and by a touch of solder. Notice that the feet of
the figure are turned round the wire on which it stands. They can be
soldered for greater security. The hand is also curled round the crank
pin, but it must be free to turn on it.
The wire framework, E, is soldered to a circle of tin, C, which fits on
the top of the lamp. As the figure has to be small it should be as long
as possible.
A pair of scissors should be kept for cutting tin, or tinman's snips can
be used; cutting pliers and centre punches will also be needed. Holes,
however, can be punched in tin with strong round nails and a hammer.
Round files are needed for making holes smooth.
Empty tin canisters form a supply of tin plate.
Adjustable cycle spanners are useful for bending wire at right angles; a
hide mallet is a great convenience.
Before making a toy like one of those described it is well to practise
bending wire with vice, hammer and mallet.
In the last toy, if tinned plate and tinned steel wire are used, the
soldering is a fairly easy matter, because the tinning has already been
done.
CHAPTER XXVII
BUILDINGS AT HOME AND ABROAD
=A Farmhouse.= Young children, having cut out of cardboard or fret-wood
the animals and trees described in Chapter XX, having constructed a
bridge, a well, a dove-cot, and other small models scattered through
this volume, take considerable pleasure in arranging their toys into
pretty groups and attractive combinations. At this stage the lack is
often felt of some object of central interest, of something to 'pull the
composition together,' as an art critic would put it: the farm scene
requires a farm, the domestic scene a villa, the Eastern animals and
trees an Indian temple, or some such building, to complete the picture.
With regard to home scenes, children may be advised at this stage to
make for themselves any house or building that suits their fancy. The
basis of the toy will always be the four walls plus a roof described in
the Noah's Ark (Part I, Chapter X); more complicated cardboard work has
already been studied in the castle (Part II, Chapter X), so children who
are ambitious to achieve something more picturesque than the Noah's Ark
may be advised to go out into the suburbs or the country, and sketch
any simple building, or set of buildings, which they would like to
reproduce. Such work, once attempted, becomes extremely fascinating,
and leads to very picturesque and delightful results. To do really
good work, however, children must accustom themselves to _plan_ very
carefully what they propose to do, and to convert their sketches into
a set of drawings to scale, which, in the case of a building, should
include at least a ground plan and a couple of elevations.
Figs. 530 and 531 show how to lay down the plan and elevations of
a simple building of the 'Noah's Ark' type, to which have been
added a front and a back door, with porches, bay and storm windows,
chimney-stacks, and an outhouse at the back. Fig. 532 is the front
elevation to half scale.
[Illustration: FIG. 530]
[Illustration: FIG. 531]
[Illustration: FIG. 532]
[Illustration: FIG. 533]
The addition of another entirely detached outhouse with wide door at one
end, for a cowshed, to face the back of the main building and form the
third side of a square, will give the nucleus of quite an attractive
farm.
When once the plans have been drawn, a scale is plotted below to suit
any size to which it is intended to build; all the dimensions shown in
plan and elevation are then taken as required with dividers, read off
on the scale, taken anew on a foot-rule, and transferred to the wood or
cardboard.
The scale given on the figure is for quite a large house, the ground
plan of the main building measuring 15 inches by 10 inches, and that
of the outhouse 10 inches by 5 inches. These two buildings had best be
constructed on separate bases, and need not be permanently joined; the
roof of the outhouse can be carried rather further into that of the main
building than is indicated by the line C H E, and the main roof alone
cut carefully to the line C H E. If the main roof is made detachable,
building A B C D will form a receptacle for the outhouses and the whole
farm stock. The broken line surrounding A B C D and C E F G indicates
the dimensions.
A house of this size is best built with a base and walls of wood
obtained from some grocers' boxes.[2] If the scale be marked so that
points 0, 10, 20 read 0, 7-1/2, 15, giving a reduction to three
quarters, the main building will measure 11-1/4 inches by 7-1/2 inches,
and may be built entirely of cardboard. If the scale be marked so that
points 0, 10, 20 read 0, 5, 10, A B and A D measuring respectively 7-1/2
inches and 5 inches, we shall have a small model that can be built of
very light materials, such as stout cartridge paper on a cardboard base.
[2] An excellent and very strong material for model-building is
manufactured by Messrs James Spicer and Sons Limited, under the name of
Rough Cast Building Board. It has a most realistic white 'rough-cast'
surface. It is obtainable in the size 18-1/2 inches × 24 inches from
Messrs Richardson and Co., Stationers, 176 Charing Cross Road.
The bay window will, of course, be made separately, and gummed into
position by means of flanges. The porches may be detachable, like the
outhouse; the front-door porch is built of eight pillars of stripwood,
nailed and glued to a wood or cardboard base and to cross-beams above;
between the pillars may be fixed a couple of seats, one on each side of
the door. The back-door porch is supported by four pillars. The roofs
are of cardboard. The ground-floor windows, indicated at W, may be
either painted or cut out; in the latter case they may be made to open
or may be fitted with celluloid window-panes; these you can beg from any
amateur photographer of your acquaintance; he is sure to have plenty of
'waster' films. The doors should, of course, be made to open.
The storm windows are easily made; the sides, K L M, are cut with angle
L K M = half the angle K O P, the latter being in the present instance
72°. The shape of the window roofs can be arrived at by experimenting
with a paper template, but more accurately by plotting them out to scale.
Thus: draw Q' R' V' = Q R V, R' T' = R T, Q' S' and V' S" = Q S; join
S' T' and S" T'; then Q' V' S" T' S' (Fig. 533) is the exact shape
(leaving the flanges out of account) to which the storm-window roofs
should be cut. The roofs over the front porch and the bay window, the
chimney stacks, etc., are thought out and plotted in the same manner,
the solving of these little problems being excellent practice, which may
be turned to good account in after life.
The village church, the village inn, if it is old and picturesque,
should form good subjects for study and reproduction on the lines
indicated above. For young people who have exhausted the possibilities
of their immediate surroundings we give a few models from lands more
remote.
=The Taj Mahal, Agra.= This is one of the most famous buildings in
India, and was erected by the Emperor Shah Jehan over the body of his
favourite wife. A very pretty model which closely resembles it can be
made as follows:--
In Fig. 534 the dome, A, is a plain india-rubber ball, circumference
about 11 inches. Four india-rubber balls, circumference about 6 inches,
are needed as B B, and four, circumference about 4-1/2 inches, for the
four columns (C in Fig. 534) which surround the temple. Cut a piece of
fairly thick cardboard, 7 inches square, for the roof of the temple. Cut
off the corners as in Fig. 535. In the centre describe a circle with
radius 1-3/8 inches, and round it four smaller circles of radius 7/8
inch.
Cut a strip of thin cardboard 9 inches by 2 inches. Cut as in Fig.
536, leaving flanges of 1/2 inch. Roll round and fasten together with
seccotine and two small paper-clips, size 00. This forms the part of the
temple marked D in Fig. 534. It is glued to the roof by the flanges,
etc., and ball, A, is glued into it.
[Illustration: FIG. 534]
[Illustration: FIG. 535]
[Illustration: FIG. 540]
[Illustration: FIG. 541]
[Illustration: FIG. 542]
[Illustration: FIG. 543]
[Illustration: FIG. 544]
Before fastening it together, mark on it in ink the pattern indicated in
Fig. 536.
[Illustration: FIG. 536]
[Illustration: FIG. 537]
[Illustration: FIG. 538]
[Illustration: FIG. 539]
Cut four strips of thin cardboard 5-1/2 inches by 1-1/4 inches; mark
off 1/4 inch for flanges; cut each as in Fig. 537; bend them round and
fasten together; glue the smaller balls, B, B, into them and glue them
on the roof just over the smaller circles.
Cut four strips of cardboard 5 inches by 1 inch; cut and mark as in Fig.
537, and glue this round the smallest balls, C. Measure distances _ha_,
_ab_, _bc_, _cd_, etc. (Fig. 535), on a piece of cardboard, and mark out
as in Fig. 538. Make half cuts along the dotted lines and leave flanges
as shown. Distance _ak_ = _ah_ and _lb_ = _bc_ = _cm_ = _nd_.
Make and cut out the windows and arch.
Cut another piece of cardboard similar to this. These two bent round and
joined together form the sides of the temple.
Now cut a piece of cardboard as in Fig. 539, leaving flanges all round.
Bend it round and gum it together. This is gummed underneath the roof,
before fastening on the outer walls, and serves a double purpose; it
helps to support the roof on which the domes rest, and prevents the
temple from looking too hollow when the windows are cut out.
=To make Tower=, C E (Fig. 534). It consists of three rolls of thin
cardboard, E F G, each about 2 inches high, circumference 4-1/2 inches.
Circular pieces of cardboard, big enough to project about 1/4 inch
beyond the columns, form the platforms, H, J, K. Underneath each
platform triangular pieces of cardboard are glued, as in Fig. 540. Four
of these columns stand round the central building.
It is a great improvement if rings of cardboard, 1/4 inch wide, are made
and glued round all the smaller domes, as shown in Fig. 541.
Round the sides of the building strips of paper, L, M, N, O (Fig. 534),
are gummed, rising about 1/2 inch from the roof, with patterns drawn on
them as in Fig. 543. Little cardboard turrets (Fig. 542) are cut out and
gummed in each corner, P and Q (Fig. 534). Little cones of paper, made
by rolling together a circle cut as in Fig. 544, may be glued to the
tops of the domes.
The whole should be mounted on a platform made of a piece of stout
cardboard, X Y, about a foot square or a little larger, supported on
match-boxes placed two together. A row of these across the middle will
prevent the platform from sagging. Trees can be cut out as in Chapter
XX, Figs. 431 and 436, to stand round the temple.
=A Pagoda=, or memorial tower, in the province of Quei Chow in China
(Fig. 545). This is made of nine hexagonal prisms. The bottom one is 2
inches high, the sides being also two inches; the dimensions of the next
are 1/8 inch less, the next another 1/8 inch less, and so on. The last
prism has side 3/4 inch, height 3/4 inch. An ornament for the top can be
filed from a cork or piece of round wood. The platforms project about
1/4 inch beyond the prisms; the supports may be cardboard or pieces of
thin wood. The prisms are fastened together as described in the case of
the lighthouse (Chapter XIII). The whole should be painted to represent
stones, and doors marked on as in Fig. 545.
[Illustration: FIG. 545]
[Illustration: FIG. 546]
Fig. 546 shows a =Mosque= in an oasis in the Sahara Desert. Here the
dome, A, an india-rubber ball, is let into a circular hole in the roof.
The towers or minarets are prisms of cardboard on top of each other,
surmounted by a piece of dowel rod, one end being rounded to a point.
Trees can be cut out as in the figure to form a background.
Fig. 547 shows a =Japanese Pagoda=. This is built up in a similar
manner to the Chinese pagoda. Parts A B C D are square prisms about 1
inch high; E F G are truncated square prisms. They are made like the
reservoir described in the models worked by sand (Chapter XXI), but
the upper parts have been cut off; they are glued to the squares of
cardboard which rest upon the tops of A, B, C and D.
A piece of cardboard is glued over the top of E so that B can rest
upon it, and so on with the others; pieces of paper cut out as at H J
are gummed round the edges. There are many interesting models that can
be made in this way. Almost any good illustrated geography book will
provide plenty of material from which pretty and interesting foreign
scenes can be built up.
[Illustration: FIG. 547]
CHAPTER XXVIII
A THEATRE
This is a toy that will provide hours of happy play.
There are many effective ways of making a toy theatre, and the planning
and designing of one is a pleasant piece of work. This chapter gives a
few suggestions to future theatre builders, who must adopt those that
appeal most to them. A large stage is the most necessary part, so that
there is plenty of room to set up the scenes and room for the actors. A
small stage limits the choice of plays considerably.
A pretty and useful theatre can be made thus. Get a wooden box 8-3/4
inches wide, about 1 foot long and 2-1/4 inches deep. (The theatre
described in this chapter was made from a wooden box containing Fry's
Nut Milk Chocolate--this box is exactly the right size.) This box forms
the basis of the platform; stand it bottom upward, nail to the back of
it a piece of wood, G H C D, which is 1 foot square (see Fig. 548). The
platform, A B L M, is a piece of stiff cardboard or wood, A B is length
of box, L M is 2 feet. This makes a fine large platform for arranging
scenes.
Pieces of stripwood 1/4 inch by 1/2 inch are glued across the platform,
A L B M, each strip a little over a 1/4 inch from the other (the 1/4
inch side is glued to platform). About eleven strips can be thus glued
across; their ends should project about 1/4 inch beyond the platform.
The grooves thus formed are for running the actors up and down in.
A piece of wood, _a b c d_, is now cut 2 feet by 3-1/4 inches.
Holes are drilled along the top of it about 1/4 inch in diameter, and
red paper gummed at the back of them for the footlights. Panels or a
pretty design of some kind should be painted on it, or it may have
coloured paper pasted on it. This piece of wood is glued to K J E F so
that its ends project equally on each side.
[Illustration: FIG. 548]
Now cut two pieces of stripwood 1/2" × 1/4" × 16-1/4" (_e b_ and _f d_
in Fig. 548). Bevel the top ends to hold up cardboard roof _e f_ G H
(the measurements for which can be easily found). The roof is secured by
a flap glued behind A G H B, the roof is also glued to the tops of the
strips _eb_ and _fd_. These posts are glued to sides of _abcd_. Before
they are glued on, however, they must have holes drilled near their
upper ends for pole, N O, to pass through. The curtain must be made of
fairly thin stuff glued to pole, N O. It can be pulled up and down by
means of pulley wheels attached on each side. (For making pulley see
Part I, Chapter XIV.) Pieces of lead can be sewn in the corners to make
the curtain run down more easily.
Saw cuts are made across the strips of wood that cover the platform
along lines B M and A L. Into these slits the side scenes fit. These
side scenes are cut out of cardboard and have drawings and painting on
them according to the story that is being acted. They must have slits
cut in them (corresponding to the grooves in the platform), the number
of slits depending on the number of actors. For example in Fig. 548 side
scene H _f_ B M has an open door through which Red Riding Hood can be
pushed. She is cut out of either cardboard or wood, and glued to the end
of a piece of stripwood, 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch, by means of which she is
pushed from the side along the groove in the stage and so off through
the corresponding slit in scene G _e_ L A. (In Fig. 548 the Wolf is
looking through this slot.) The window in scene H _f_ B M can be made to
open and show the Grandmother inside. The cardboard scene, G H A B, is
kept in its place by pieces of wire (_h_, _h_, _h_, _h_) fastened at the
back and bent over.
Almost any story can be acted in this theatre. All the actors are
fastened to lengths of stripwood by means of which they are passed in
and out. Sometimes two, three or more may be fastened to one length. The
number of openings in the side scenes will, of course, depend on the
story being acted.
Trees, etc., can also be cut out as described in Chapter XX (Part II),
and stood about. [Illustration: FIGS. 549 AND 550]
[Illustration: FIG. 551]
A sea scene looks very effective. Waves can be cut out of cardboard
and placed in every groove, as in Fig. 549, and a ship drawn across.
A shipwreck forms an exciting scene. Indeed, there is no end to the
scenes--soldiers marching past, stories and scenes from history and
literature, etc., etc. The ingenious owner of the theatre will think of
many, and add many improvements. It must not be forgotten that the stage
is large enough to hold small objects--trees, etc.--to make the scenes
look more realistic. Also holes or slits can be made in the roof if it
is necessary to pull anything up or hang anything. Fig. 549 shows how a
fringe of paper, A, can be fastened to the roof and bent over to hide
the pole on which the curtain is wound.
Fig. 550 shows how the scenes are worked; as the Witch is pushed on from
one side, the weeping Cinderella is pushed off; when she has quite gone
and only the Witch remains, a radiant Cinderella comes on, followed by a
coach, etc.
Lastly, Fig. 551 shows a proscenium, which may be built up of either
cardboard or wood, and fixed to the front of the theatre. The sides
should project sufficiently to hide the working of the strips by means
of which the actors are moved on the stage.
* * * * *
Here, for the present, we take leave of the reader, having given him
or her some insight into a subject both pleasant and profitable. The
preceding pages are no more than an introduction to the art of making
toys, and of making the most of simple tools and simple materials, and
their real purpose is to encourage our young people not only to copy but
also to create, or at any rate to copy not only from our book but from
the world around them.
Dolls' houses and furniture, railways, boats and other vehicles offer
endless possibilities of original and attractive design, and mechanical
toys, whether driven by wind, water, elastic or the works of an old
clock, offer an equally wide field for invention. At a later age girls
will no doubt be ambitious to devise useful articles for the home,
while boys may become interested in engineering and electrical models,
optical toys, etc.; the deftness of hand, acquaintance with elementary
principles, and self-confidence acquired through the simple work which
we have described, should stand them in good stead.
Self-reliance and ingenuity are valuable assets with which to start
upon the more serious tasks of life, and if our hints on toy-making
contribute in any way to the development of these qualities this book
will not have been written in vain.
* * * * *
Transcriber's note:
Punctuation and spelling were made consistent when a
predominant preference was found in this book; otherwise they
were not changed.
Simple typographical and spelling errors were corrected.
P. 99 added "or" between "bridges," & "picture". Seemed to make
more sense than "and" which could also have been used.