SWINGING AND JOINTED ANIMALS (PLATE IX)
The peacock, monkey, and other animals with long tails can be cut from
cardboard, and by means of lead buttons attached to their tails be made
to swing realistically on a perch.
It is difficult in some animals to get the balance correct and the
position natural. If the drawings in this book are carefully enlarged
and the lead buttons placed on the spot (A) indicated, they will be
found to produce satisfactory animals. They look most effective and move
more readily when made from three-ply wood with the fret-saw (see Part
II), but this work is beyond the ten-year-old child. Children of ten and
younger can, however, make them quite well of cardboard (the thicker the
cardboard, providing the children can cut it with scissors, the better).
A set made of wood by the teacher will form a delightful plaything for
very little ones, and even material for nature lessons.
The =Mouse= (Fig. 259) should be drawn on cardboard, cut out, and both
sides coloured. If grey cardboard is used, eyes, whiskers, etc., can be
drawn in sepia. Two lead buttons (about the size of halfpennies) are
glued one on each side of the tail (at A); pieces of paper should then
be glued over the buttons and painted to match the tail.
Children will find it easier to draw these animals if a piece of
cardboard is given them on which the animal to be drawn will just fit.
The colouring should be as simple as possible to be effective. The stand
is similar to that for the swinging boats, but with a rounded bar, on
which the part of the animal marked B will rest.
The =Cat= (Fig. 256), enlarged, made more fierce-looking and with
stripes painted on it makes a very terrifying tiger, ready to spring.
The =Monkey= (Fig. 265) may have another monkey swinging from his tail,
and so on.
Animals with movable limbs can also be cut from three-ply wood (see Part
II) or cardboard. If cut from cardboard the various joints are fastened
by small paper-fasteners.
[Illustration: FIG. 255]
[Illustration: FIG. 256]
[Illustration: FIG. 257]
[Illustration: FIG. 258]
[Illustration: FIG. 259]
[Illustration: FIG. 260]
[Illustration: FIG. 261]
[Illustration: FIG. 262]
[Illustration: FIG. 263]
[Illustration: FIG. 264]
[Illustration: FIG. 265]
[Illustration: PLATE IX SWINGING AND JOINTED ANIMALS]
[Illustration: FIG. 266]
[Illustration: FIG. 267]
[Illustration: FIG. 268]
[Illustration: FIG. 269]
[Illustration: FIG. 270]
[Illustration: FIG. 271]
[Illustration: FIG. 272]
[Illustration: FIG. 273]
[Illustration: FIG. 274]
[Illustration: FIG. 275]
[Illustration: FIG. 276]
[Illustration: FIG. 277]
[Illustration: FIG. 278]
To make the =Elephant= cut out two pieces the shape of A for the body
(Fig. 279), and make four holes in each piece as in the diagram. Next,
cut out four legs, and fasten two to each portion of the body by little
paper-fasteners, then cut out the tail and fasten it between the two
pieces that form the body; cut out two ears and the head; one fastener
will hold the ears, the sides and the head together; the head is inside
the two bodies, the ears outside.
[Illustration: FIG. 279]
The =Giraffe= (Fig. 255) can be made in a similar way.
The =Butterfly= and the =Dragon-fly= (Figs. 274 and 275) have their
wings and feelers cut out of cartridge paper and gummed on to cardboard
bodies, so that when the animals swing their wings wave in a realistic
manner.
Fig. 277 shows how cardboard =Crabs= and =Lobsters= can be mounted amid
under-sea surroundings.
PART II
CHAPTER I
ADDITIONAL TOOLS
Besides the tools mentioned in Part I, viz., bench-hook, hammer, saw,
file, bradawl, pincers, the following additional tools will be found of
service, though some of these are luxuries, and generally it is best to
use as few as possible:
1. A larger saw, for sawing rougher and larger wood than stripwood,
_e.g._ a _Tenon Saw_, length 8 to 16 inches; 10 to 16 points to an inch,
price about one and ninepence.
2. _An Archimedean Drill._ This is useful for making small holes when
there is danger of the wood splitting, however when once this drill is
used, the worker never again feels inclined to use a bradawl or any
other kind of boring tool. A quite useful and efficient drill can be
bought for sixpence. Care must be taken that the drill bits or drill
points do not break, for being quite slender and made of tempered steel
they are rather fragile. A set of twelve drill points in assorted sizes
in a metal case may be bought for sixpence. (For hints on the use of
drill, see under fret-saw.)
3. The _Cramp_ or clamp is a contrivance used for holding boards
together. An adjustable G cramp is a handy article for small work. There
are several models of G cramps; that shown in the plate costs twopence.
4. A _Rasp_ or rough file for removing from boxes either paper or the
names that are sometimes stamped on them.
5. _Brace and Bit._ The smallest-sized brace, which has a sweep of 5
inches, is the most convenient for children. Bits are of many patterns.
The most common form is the _Centre-bit_ which will cut holes from 3/8
inch to 1-1/2 inches in diameter.
The _Pin-bit_ or shell-bit of the smallest bore is used to make
small-sized holes for screws, etc., but more especially when making
preparation for using the centre-bit.
A _Centre-bit_ 1-3/4 inches in diameter costs ninepence; a brace and bit
(3/4 inch diameter) together costs one and threepence; this latter bit
is useful for boring holes in wheels for axles, etc.
However the brace and bit is somewhat of a luxury and can be done
without, for holes made with the Archimedean drill can always be
enlarged to the required size, by means of round files and patience.
6. The _Mitre-block_ is a piece of beech-wood carefully squared and
rebated so as to present throughout its length a rectangular step-like
recess in which the wood to be mitred is placed in order to be cut at
the necessary angle.
In the raised part are three saw kerfs, two at an angle of 45° with the
sides of the mitre-block and one half-way between these at right angles
to the sides. The inclination of the saw-cuts at an angle of 45° is to
the right and left respectively, so that when these angles are brought
together in the mitred joint they may form a perfect right angle (90°).
The mitre-block is a luxury, but it is useful in squaring off the ends
of the wood, making picture frames, making the crane (Chapter V), etc.,
price sixpence.
A _Compass_, _Protractor_, _Ruler_, _Try-square_ and well-sharpened
_Pencil_ will be found useful in making nearly every toy.
A _Plane_ is not necessary for any of the toys described in the
following chapters, but is mentioned here in case anyone should require
one for reducing the thickness of wood or straightening a surface. The
most economical one is a Jack-plane fitted with a smoothing-plane iron.
The Jack-plane thus equipped may be used for reducing thicknesses of
material (this is the real function of the Jack-plane) as well as for
planing up surfaces true and smooth (the purpose of the smoothing-plane).
The Jack-plane iron has its cutting edge slightly rounded in order
to gouge out the wood and thus reduce thickness quickly, the
smoothing-plane iron is ground to a straight edge.
If both these irons are bought, the plane becomes both a Jack-and a
smoothing-plane.
The Stanley Bailey adjustable iron plane is a good one. No. 5 size, 14
inches long, is recommended.
[Illustration: PLATE X USEFUL TOOLS
1. Fret-saw
2. 'Non-slip' safety ruler
3. Card knife (London pattern)
4. Craft knife
5. G cramp
6. Round-nose pliers
7. Brass back metal saw
8. Mitre block
9. Tenon saw
10. Archimedean drill
11. Try square
12. File
13. Bradawl
14. Brace and bit
15. Carton knife]
However, as we have said before, it can be done without. The first four
tools are the really necessary ones.
_The Preservation of Tools._ Keep tools in a dry atmosphere in a wooden
box. Have them instantly dried after grinding and whenever they have
been in contact with wet. Iron or steel parts should be frequently
rubbed over with a piece of oily rag (if grease is used it must be
free from salt). A speck of rust must be removed at once with fine
emery-paper and oil.
A generous coating of oil or vaseline should be given when tools are
laid aside for some time.
_The Sharpening of Tools._ Chisels, planes and knives are sharpened on
oilstones. The Lily-white and the Rosy-red Washita oilstones are perhaps
the best natural stones on the market. With regard to the oil used,
machine, engine, neat's foot and sweet oils are all suitable. Clean the
stone after use.
Knives are sharpened at an angle on both sides, and will therefore have
one side rubbed on the stone a few times and will then be turned over to
rub the other side.
Pen-knives can be sharpened on the ordinary kitchen knifeboard.
CHAPTER II
CAPSTAN, DREADNOUGHT, LINER
[Illustration: FIG. 280]
Saw a square piece of wood, side 4-1/3 inches, A B C D (Fig. 280). Cut
two others, sides 2-1/2 inches. Saw the corners of these and make them
octagons.[1] Drill a hole through the centre of E (Fig. 281). Into this
hole glue a wooden meat skewer or round rod that will pass through the
hole of a large reel. Glue and nail E to A B C D. Round the sides of F
(Fig. 280) drill eight holes about 1/4 inch deep. Make levers of wood to
fit these holes as in Fig. 280. Match sticks could be used. Now glue F
to the top of the reel, G, taking care that the centre of F is over the
centre of the reel. Place the reel over the axle, round which it can be
turned. The capstan can be used for dragging along a toy boat by means
of a string tied to the boat and wound round the reel.
[1] To make an octagon from a square A B C D. Draw A D and B C (Fig.
282). With centre C and radius C O mark points E and K, with centre D
and same radius mark M and G, and so on. Join E F, G H, J K, etc.
[Illustration: FIG. 282]
[Illustration: FIG. 281]
A =Dreadnought=. The bottom of the boat is made from a piece of wood
9-3/4 inches by 2-1/2 inches. Shape the bow as in Fig. 283. To this glue
another piece of wood, A B C, shaped to fit over the first, and about 6
inches in length. The two pieces can also be nailed together.
[Illustration: FIG. 283]
Cut a piece of wood, D, 2-3/4 inches by 1-1/2 inches, and glue and nail
it to A B C. When these pieces are secure drill a hole through them at E
for the mast. To carry the guns at the stern, shape two pieces of wood,
G and F, in the form of circles or octagons, and glue and nail them in
their place. The mast has holes drilled through it to hold pieces of
cane.
Nail 1/4 inch nails round one end of D and tie black thread round them.
The guns are made of small rolls of brown paper, narrower at one end
and painted black or grey. They are glued in position. The guns H and K,
are fastened to a small piece of wood, L, to raise them above the level
of the deck.
The funnels are made of pieces of round wood or rolls of paper. The
whole boat is painted grey, and rigged with black thread.
A =Liner= (Fig. 284). The foundation of the boat is a piece of wood
10-1/2 inches by 1-1/2 inches, and about 1/4 inch in thickness, or
thicker if possible. Shape the bow as in the figure. Round the stern.
[Illustration: FIG. 284]
Cut two pieces of cardboard 7-1/2 inches by 1-1/2 inches. These are for
the decks (Fig. 286), and their stern ends must be shaped to correspond
to the stern of the boat. Place them together on the foundation and make
holes right through along their edges about 1/2 inch apart.
[Illustration: FIG. 285]
Cut two pieces of stripwood 1/2" × 1/4" × 6-1/2". Place them one over
the other and drill a hole (1/4 inch in diameter) at P, about 1-3/4
inches from one end; this hole is to receive the mast, B. Along each
piece of stripwood mark little doors and windows or port-holes. Glue
each piece of stripwood along the middle of each cardboard deck, as in
Fig. 285, having made holes in the cardboard corresponding to the holes
P drilled in the stripwood. Now glue the stripwood of one piece to the
middle of the cardboard of the other piece, taking care that the holes
in each piece of cardboard are over each other (Fig. 286). While these
pieces are drying, drill a hole about 2 inches from the bow for the mast
A; drill holes along the edge of the bow (C D E), 1/3 an inch apart. Cut
pieces of cane 7/8 inch to fit through the holes in the cardboard, and
pieces about 3/8 inch in length for railings round the bow. Now glue
the stripwood, G, to the boat so that ends H and K correspond with the
edge of the stern. While this is drying prepare the masts. The mainmast
is about 4 inches in length; this length allows it to stand 3 inches
above the upper cardboard deck; the foremast is about 5 inches. Round
the foremast glue a circular piece of cardboard, M, resting on a nail
passing through the mast. Hammer a nail through at L for a spar, and put
a piece of cane through a hole at N.
[Illustration: FIG. 286]
Glue the masts into position. Put in a nail at O in the stern, and a
piece of cane, D, at the bow. Hammer in three nails in side D C and
three on the other side for rigging. Insert the strips of cane through
the holes in the cardboard; put a little glue into the holes in the
wooden deck, and tap the cane in very gently; put the smaller pieces of
cane into the holes round the bow. Tie cotton round the pieces of cane
as in Fig. 284; tie cotton to masts, etc.
The funnels are made of rolls of paper. If the liner is a Cunarder, the
funnels should be red with black bands round the top and two black lines
lower down. The wooden sides of the boat are painted dark brown.
CHAPTER III
MOTOR-CAR (PLATE VIII), SWINGING CRADLE, DECK-CHAIR
A piece of flat wood 2-1/2 inches by 5-1/2 inches forms the bottom of
the car. Two pieces of wood, 5-1/2 inches by 1 inch, are marked out and
sawn as in Fig. 287. If it is found too difficult to saw out the corner
pieces E F G and H K L, piece A E C M can be cut right off, by sawing
along a line E M; G M H N can be cut off by sawing along lines G M and H
N, the same with L N B D.
[Illustration: FIG. 287]
The corners E, F, G, H, K, L should be rounded with a file, as shown
in the plate. The two side-pieces are then glued at each side of the
bottom. Front and back pieces are then cut, and fitted between the
bottom and sides; also a top to fit over A E, and seats to fit over G H
and L B.
These seats are then provided with backs and arms as shown in the
plate. Axles and wheels should be made and put on as described in Part
I, Chapter XIII. The wheels should be 1/2 an inch thick and have the
edges rounded to represent the tyre. Lastly the steering pillar, with
cardboard wheel attached, is fixed into bottom.
A drawback to this toy is that it is made of so many separate pieces
of wood, but children delight in it and can make it most successfully.
Children from nine to twelve have turned out most effective motor-cars.
=A Swinging Cradle= (Fig. 288). The _cradle_ is a wooden box, 5 inches
by 2-3/4 inches, and 2 inches deep. Before nailing this together, holes
must be drilled in the two short sides, large enough to take a wooden
axle about 1/4 inch in diameter.
A and B are two pieces of stripwood 1/4" × 1/2" × 5"; their tops are
rounded and holes similar to those in the cradle are drilled in them
about 1-1/2 inches from the top.
A is fastened to E, which is 4 inches in length, by means of triangular
pieces of wood, C and D, which are glued and nailed to A and E.
[Illustration: FIG. 288]
F and K are wider pieces of wood, 5 inches by 1 inch. E is glued and
nailed to F; a wider space must be left on one side of E so that the
supports, H and G, can be fastened securely to F. G and H are 5-1/2" ×
1/2" × 1/4".
For the axles on which the cradle swings two pieces of stripwood, 1/4" ×
1/4" × 1-1/4" must be cut and rounded, passed through holes in A and B,
and glued securely to the holes in the sides of the cradle.
=A Deck-chair= (Fig. 289). Two pieces of stripwood, 1/4" × 1/4" ×
6", A B, C D, are taken. These are nailed and glued to E and F, each
2-1/4 inches. E and F should not be placed too near the ends of A B
and C D, as the wood may split when the nails are driven in. E and F
may be rounded. For the smaller frame of the chair, cut two pieces of
stripwood, 5 inches in length. To get the measurements for the bars,
M and L, place G H and J K inside A B C D as in Fig. 289, and measure
distances G J and H K. This must be done very accurately. Before nailing
G H and J K together, notches must be cut in them as in Fig. 290. The
wood is partly sawn through at N and O, and the notch is then filed
out, the safe edge of the file being turned towards N and O. To make
the support, two pieces of wood are cut 2 inches in length, Q R and U V
in Fig. 291, which shows how the length of the piece of wood S, which
fastens Q R and U V together, is obtained. Frame G K is now nailed to
frame A D (Fig. 289). Fix the point for the nail at T about 2 inches
from H and B. When hammering the nail in at T, the bars A B and G H
should rest upon the edge of the bench or table.
[Illustration: FIG. 289]
[Illustration: FIG. 290]
[Illustration: FIG. 291]
From A and C measure distances of 2-1/2 inches to R and V respectively.
To these points nail the arms of the support, Q R and U V.
A piece of coloured print or casement cloth is fastened to E and L.
Other toys which can be made in a similar manner are a camp-stool, a
clothes-horse, a screen.
CHAPTER IV
A TRAM-CAR
This toy is made of wood, cardboard and paper (cartridge).
A piece of wood, E F G H (Fig. 292), 8-1/2 inches by 2-1/4 inches is
required for the bottom of the car, and two pieces, A B C D, 5 inches by
1-1/2 inches, for the sides.
The supports (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) are pieces of stripwood 1/4" × 1/4" ×
3-1/2".
[Illustration: FIG. 292]
Glue three of these to one of the sides as in Fig. 293, allowing A B C D
to project beyond them for a space equal to the thickness of the wooden
bottom of the car, E F G H. This forms one side of the car; make the
other in the same way.
Fig. 294 shows how the sides and seats are fastened to the bottom of the
car.
The seat is a piece of stripwood 1/4" × 1/2" × 5".
The top of the car is made of thick cardboard cut as in Fig. 295 to the
given measurements. Before the top is fastened on strips of cartridge
paper are gummed round its sides. These strips are about an inch wide,
and are doubled in half; one half is gummed to the cardboard as in Fig.
296. The other half bends downward and the names of places to which the
car runs are printed on it. Similar pieces are gummed to the top and
bent upward to form the railings round the top (Fig. 297.)
[Illustration: FIG. 293]
These pieces are painted yellow and edged with dark brown. Fig. 298
shows the entrance to the interior of car. J and K are pieces of
cardboard, coloured yellow, and glued into position; L is a similarly
coloured piece of cardboard or paper glued to supports 1 and 4. The
other entrance is finished off in the same way.
Cut two pieces of cardboard, 4-1/2 inches by 1-1/2 inches, as in Fig.
299. Make half-cuts along the dotted lines. These pieces are bent round
and glued to the ends of the bottom of the car (M, N, O in Fig. 292).
These are also coloured yellow and their edges are dark brown.
[Illustration: FIG. 294]
The wheels are put on as the wheels of the engine (Part I, Chapter XIII).
Cut two pieces of cartridge paper (P in Fig. 292), colour as described
before, and gum under each end of car.
Part Q is a piece of cardboard one inch wide, coloured like M N O, and
gummed along the side, so that it covers at least half the wheels.
The top can now be glued on. Thin strips of wood or pieces of cane (S
and T in Fig. 292 and 296) are gummed in position.
The steps into the car are made of cartridge paper coloured black.
Fig. 300 shows the simplest way of making the stairs leading to the top
of the car.
[Illustration: FIG. 295]
[Illustration: FIG. 296]
[Illustration: FIG. 297]
W Y is a piece of cardboard, 1 inch wide, to which pieces of stiff paper
are gummed as in diagram. X is a flap of paper which fastens the steps
to the top of the car.
[Illustration: FIG. 298]
[Illustration: FIG. 299]
[Illustration: FIG. 300]
[Illustration: FIG. 301]
[Illustration: FIG. 302]
[Illustration: FIG. 303]
_Seats for the Top._ Pieces of cartridge paper are cut out, 1-3/4 inches
by 3/4 inch, and coloured yellow. These are folded and cut as in Figs.
301 and 302. Part _a_ is gummed to the side of the car, flap _b_ is
gummed to the floor. The second seat is gummed back to back to the first
seat (Fig. 303). The top of the car will hold about six of these double
seats. Single seats can be gummed in the corners.
Steering-wheels are made as in Fig. 292. The top is of cardboard, cut or
marked as in the figure and coloured black. This is gummed to a round
rod, about 1-3/4 inches in length, which is fastened to the end of the
car (N in Fig. 292). A similar steering-wheel is fastened to the other
end.
CHAPTER V
A CRANE
=A Crane.= _Foundation_, _Arm_, _Pulley_. Cut a piece of wood about
5-1/2 inches by 4-1/2 inches (H in Fig. 304). Cut a second piece a
square, A, side 2-1/2 inches. Cut off the corners. This forms a stand on
which the crane, etc., is fastened.
Cut a piece of stripwood, 1/4" x 1/2" x 8". This is the arm of the
crane, C, and is usually inclined at an angle of 45° to 60°. To support
this arm cut B with sides about 3/4 inch, angles 45° or 60° and 30°.
[Illustration: FIG. 304]
[Illustration: FIG. 305]
Cut two pieces of stripwood 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch, each 2 inches in
length; shape like E and F in Fig. 305. These can now be glued and
nailed to the arm C, projecting an inch beyond.
A wheel for the pulley is cut from a round rod about 3/4 inch in
diameter.
If a groove is to be made round the circumference, the wheel should be
about 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick. The groove is made with a file. A simple
way to make the groove is to cut two cardboard discs a little larger
in diameter than the wheel and glue them to each side of the wheel, in
which case the latter need not be quite so thick. A hole is drilled
through the wheel and enlarged by a round file to 1/4 inch in diameter.
A piece of wood is now rounded for an axle, so that the wheel turns on
it easily. This must fit tightly between E and F. Pass it through the
wheel and glue it in position (G in Fig. 305).
_Winding Gear._ Cut two pieces of stripwood, 1/4" x 1/2" x 2", J and K
in Fig. 304. Round their tops, drill and enlarge holes in them.
A hole must now be made through the centre of A, to enable this part to
rotate on the foundation H, so that the crane may swing round in any
direction. One of the simplest ways of doing this is to use a rivet, but
if such is not procurable a screw may be used; the hole in A is made
large enough for A to turn easily on the pivot which can be screwed into
H. Before this is done, pieces J and K are fastened to A about one inch
apart. To do this, drive nails right through A in correct positions,
glue the ends of J and K and hammer them on to the nails. The head of
the nail should rest on a piece of metal when the wood is being hammered
down on its point.
The support B should now be glued and nailed to A. When B is firmly
fixed the arm C is fastened to it. The hole in the centre of A must be
left clear.
A is now riveted or screwed to H. A wooden axle, P, is made to pass
through holes in J and K, and to the ends of this axle wheels are
glued. (The figure shows one only.) The wheels can be made from reels,
or several discs of cardboard gummed together. Before glueing on the
wheels, wooden handles, L, are fastened to them. A wooden handle O is
fastened to A. This is used for turning the crane. A piece of stout
thread is tied to and wound round P and passed over the pulley. To the
end of this a hook is fastened, made from wire or a bent pin. Bags can
be made and filled with sawdust, etc.
[Illustration: PLATE XI A CRANE]
CHAPTER VI
WINDMILL, WATER-WHEEL, AND WELL
=Windmill= (Plate XII). Cut a square of wood, side 5 inches. This is the
stand A in Fig. 306. To the centre of this glue a large reel, B.
Next cut two 4-inch squares of wood and drill through their centres
holes of about 1/4 inch in diameter. Glue one to the top of the reel so
that the holes coincide. Next cut and glue into position the supports,
C. For these stripwood 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch can be used.
Cut two pieces of wood, 4 inches by 6 inches. These form two sides of
the windmill; glue and nail them to the other 4-inch square, which forms
the bottom of the windmill.
[Illustration: FIG. 306]
[Illustration: FIG. 307]
[Illustration: FIG. 308]
[Illustration: FIG. 309]
Next cut two pieces of wood as in Fig. 307, for the other sides of the
windmill. Drill a small hole in each at D about 1-1/2 inches from the
top.
On one of these sides mark and paint a door and windows as in Fig. 308,
and over the door make a small roof, like the roof over the porch of
the signal-box (Chapter XII). The windows and door may be cut out with
a fret-saw and the door hinged on by means of a strip of strong linen.
Glue and nail these sides in position. Make and fix the roof.
_The Sails._ For these, two strips of wood, 1/4 inch square and 12
inches long, are necessary.
In the centre of each of these, cut a slot half-way through the wood so
that one may fit tightly into the other (F in Fig. 309). The sails are
made of cardboard, and are rectangular in shape, measuring 5 inches by
2 inches. They are coloured light brown, with dark markings on them,
as shown in the plate. Shape each end of the arms of the sails as in
Fig. 309. This is easily done by filing, if the wood is fairly soft.
Saw half-way through the wood at E, and file, or cut off the wood with
a pen-knife. To this flat surface the sails are glued, so that they may
be inclined to the wind. Now glue the two arms together, and when they
are firm make a hole through the middle, F, where the arms cross. Take
a short steel knitting needle, about 6-3/4 inches; fix one end into
this hole with glue; then glue a small piece of cardboard or wood over
it, and a cork washer behind, to keep the sails from touching the walls
of the windmill; pass the needle through the holes in the sides of the
windmill and glue a little knob of wood to the other end to prevent the
needle slipping back. If a needle cannot be obtained, an old bicycle
spoke, or even a wooden meat skewer, will do, but in the latter case the
holes in the walls must be made larger, and the sails fixed to the end
of the skewer by a small nail.
Now glue a piece of round rod into the reel (H in Fig. 306) so that
it projects about an inch. Place the mill on this stand, so that the
rod passes through the hole in the bottom of the mill. The mill can be
turned round in any direction so that the sails may catch the wind. Make
a small ladder to reach the door.
A very pretty but somewhat more difficult windmill is shown in Fig. 310.
It is made of cardboard. The foundation, platform and railings can be
made as described in the case of the lighthouse (Chapter XIII).
The truncated hexagonal pyramid forming the body of the windmill is made
as follows. With centre O (Fig. 311), and a radius of about 10 inches,
describe an arc, A B.
From any point on this arc mark off six spaces, each 2 inches.
[Illustration: FIG. 310]
[Illustration: FIG. 311]
[Illustration: FIG. 312]
Join the several points to each other and
to O. With radius about 3 inches make arc C D. Join points where C D
cuts radii, by dotted lines. Draw the flanges; make half cuts along the
dotted lines, cut out along the dark lines, and fold into shape. Fasten
together with seccotine; turn in the flanges at the bottom, and fasten
them to the platform.
The _Top of the Windmill_ can be cut from one piece of cardboard. Draw
square, A B C D (Fig. 312), large enough to project beyond top of
hexagonal pyramid (side of square should be about 3 inches). On the
middle of D C draw M K = 4 inches, and draw a similar line on A B. Join
A J, J B, K D and K C, by curved lines. Produce A B and D C both ways.
Make B F, C E, D H, A G, equal in length to arc B J. Draw the flange E
F P O. Make holes in the middle of A J B and D K C through which the
knitting-needle (on which the sail is fastened) may pass. Draw flanges
on B J, J A, etc. Make half cuts along the dotted lines, and cut along
the dark lines.
Before fastening the top together, put a very small paper-clip through
the middle of square, A B C D, and fasten it to a square of cardboard
of the same size, so that it turns freely on it. This second square
will be gummed to the top of the hexagonal pyramid, so that the top of
the windmill may be turned in any direction. Bend up A J B and D K C at
right angles to square, A B C D. Bend up B C E F and A D H G and gum
them to the flanges of A J B and D K C; gum flange F O to A D H G. The
sails are made as already described.
=A Water-wheel= (Plate XII). _The Wheel._ Cut two discs of cardboard, 4
inches in diameter. Make holes in the centre, glue them to a small reel
(about an inch high), and pass a round rod through for an axle. This
wheel is an overshot water-wheel--that is, one that receives the water
_shot over_ the top, and must be fitted with 'buckets.' These receive
the water at the top of the wheel and retain it until they reach the
lowest point (see Fig. 313).
The 'buckets' may be made of stiff paper or thin cardboard. Cut pieces 1
inch in width, and in length the distance of the two wheels apart plus
1/2 an inch. Mark these out as in Fig. 314, where _a b_ is the distance
between the wheels, and _c_, _d_, _e_, _f_ are flanges for fastening the
bucket to the wheels. Fold as in Fig. 315. Make at least twelve of these
buckets; divide the wheel into twelve parts, and fasten the buckets
between the wheels.
[Illustration: WINDMILL AND WATERMILL]
[Illustration: PLATE XII DRAWBRIDGE
(Chapter VII)]
To make the toy technically correct, the buckets should rest against a
solid wheel contained within the two outer ones, as in Fig. 313, so that
no water can run down toward the centre of the wheel. This can be easily
managed, if desired, in the following manner:
Before fastening the wheels to the reel, cut a long strip of paper,
with flanges, as in Fig. 316, in which _a b_ is the distance between
the two outer wheels. Describe a smaller circle on one of the wheels,
about 3 inches in diameter; glue the reel in position, then bend down
the flanges of this strip of paper (Fig. 316), and gum these round the
smaller circle of the wheel. Now gum the other wheel to the reel and to
the flanges of the paper.
[Illustration: FIG. 313]
[Illustration: FIG. 314]
[Illustration: FIG. 315]
[Illustration: FIG. 316]
[Illustration: FIG. 317]
[Illustration: FIG. 318]
The wheel should be painted brown, with spokes marked in darker colour.
The plate shows the wheel and the mill-house. A hole is made in the side
of the house, into which the axle of the wheel is inserted; the other
end is held by the upright standard shown in the plate. The shoot may be
made of cardboard; it should slope a little and should come just over
the top of the wheel, which revolves freely beneath it.
A chimney may be made of a cork, one end being cut on the slant, so
that it stands upright on the roof, which is made of cardboard. The
whole should be suitably coloured.
_An Undershot Wheel._ This wheel is very simple to make. It has a number
of float-boards arranged round it and is turned by a stream of water
moving against the float-boards at its lowest point (Fig. 317).
Fig. 318 shows how the float-boards, which are made of cardboard, are
fastened between the wheels. With this undershot wheel, the shoot
represented in the plate is not required.
[Illustration: FIG. 319]
=A Well= (Fig. 319). The round part of the well is made from a
mantle-box or other round box. A is a fairly deep box turned upside
down, with a circle cut out into which the mantle-box fits closely. This
gives a fair depth. Cover the well with paper coloured to represent
bricks; colour the box, A, green. The cardboard roof is glued to posts,
D, and to triangular pieces of wood, B and C, glued to each side of D.
Holes are drilled through the posts to take the roller, E, which is a
round rod about 1/2 an inch in diameter. Drill small holes in it at each
end. Push a pin from the end F through the side post into the roller.
Bind a piece of wire to form a handle, G, and push one end of this into
the roller. Bend a piece of wire or pin to form a hook, tie this to a
piece of string, wind it round the roller and fasten the other end of
the string to roller with seccotine. If a small chain is used this can
be fastened by one of its links to the roller with a staple, and should
be so fastened before the roller is put in position.
CHAPTER VII
DRAWBRIDGE AND SIEGE TOWER
=A Drawbridge= (Plate XII). Two pieces of wood for the front, H and I
(Fig. 320), must first be sawn 11 inches by 2-1/2 inches. The white wood
of chocolate boxes, etc., is the best.
Next two strips of wood, 7" × 1/4" × 1/4" are cut (satin walnut
stripwood will do)--D E and F G in Fig. 321.
The bridge is made of a piece of white wood, 2-5/8 inches by 5-1/4
inches. The posts, D E and F G, are nailed to the bridge so that the
bridge turns on the nails. (Note that the bridge is nailed about 3-1/4
inches from bottom of post.)
Next two lengths of stripwood, R S, are sawn 10" × 1/2" × 1/4", these
are nailed to pieces H and I (nails are about 8-1/2 inches from bottom),
so that the portions R T project about 5-1/2 inches. The strips R S turn
freely on their nails.
[Illustration: FIG. 320]
[Illustration: FIG. 321]
Before nailing them in position, their ends should be rounded as in the
figure. The posts G F and D E (which hold the bridge) are then glued to
H and I. A piece of wood, V, about 8 inches by 2-1/3 inches, is glued to
the lower parts of H and I, and joins them together.
Next the piece of wood Q is cut; its width will be the distance of post
F G from D E (about 2-1/2 inches)--this distance should be carefully
measured so that the piece fits well; its length will be about 5 inches.
The arch is cut with a fret-saw. Piece Q is kept in position by having
the ends of the arch glued to posts F G and D E, and by a length of
stripwood (1/2 inch by 1/4 inch) glued along the top as shown in the
plate. Lengths of stripwood (1/2 inch by 1/4 inch) may also be glued
down the sides. Holes must be drilled in the ends, R, for wire loops,
care being taken that these holes are over the bridge; wire loops must
be placed on the bridge exactly underneath, and these loops are joined
by chains, which can be made of wire or else bought from an ironmonger.
Fig. 320 shows the inside of the drawbridge; A, B, C and D are the lead
weights for raising and lowering the beams. These weights can be cut
from a piece of sheet lead or may be lead buttons. They are attached to
the beams by chains and wire hooks. E F is a ledge for the defenders of
the bridge to stand on. Sides have been added and a platform, L. The
battlements, G, H, K, etc., are made of pieces of stripwood 1/2" × 1/2"
× 1/4", glued round the top.
The ladder is made of matches as described in Chapter IX.
=A Movable Siege Tower= (Plate XIII). Two pieces of wood (A and B in
Fig. 322) are sawn to the shape and measurements of Fig. 323. To the
broader ends of these, pieces of stripwood 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch are
glued and nailed (C in Fig. 323), and other pieces, D, 1/4 inch by 1/4
inch (about three on each side), are fastened at equal distances apart.
D_{3} and the corresponding piece on the other side must not extend to
edge of B, but a space must be left of 1/2 inch for the posts of the
drawbridge.
Next the wood is cut for the foundation and the platforms, J, H, etc.
A stands about 6 inches from B, so this must be the width of all the
platforms, except the foundation, F, which is wider and projects about
3/4 inch on each side of A and B, and the platform K, which rests on A
and B.
The other dimensions of the platforms will be the same as those of the
pieces of stripwood on which they rest. The platform K must be about 1/4
inch narrower than tops of A and B, to leave room for posts L and M. A
and B are now glued and nailed to the base by means of the pieces of
stripwood, C, at their ends, and the platforms are glued in position.
Two pieces of stripwood 1/4 inch by 1/2 inch, S and T in Fig. 324, are
now cut equal in length to distance of K from H, for the supports of
bridge. Place these in position between K and H, and measure distance
between them; this gives width of drawbridge; its length is 6-1/4
inches. This can now be sawn. Fix in position as explained for previous
toy.
[Illustration: FIG. 322]
[Illustration: FIG. 323]
[Illustration: FIG. 324]
Next cut two pieces of stripwood 1/2" × 1/4" × 10-1/2", L and M. At the
ends of these drill holes, 1/4 inch in diameter, through which passes
the chain of the drawbridge. Fix these in position by triangular wedges
glued to sides and to platform J.
On top, K, add struts to support M and L, as shown in the plate. The
chains of the drawbridge are looped over nails driven into A and B, just
above platform J.
The base may be mounted on small wheels and strengthened with projecting
beams by which the tower may be pushed into position. (These are not
shown in plate.) Ladders to reach the top can also be made (see Chapter
IX), and a battering ram may be swung from platform H, as shown in the
plate. A tower of this kind was used by the Crusaders in the siege of
Jerusalem (1099).
[Illustration: PLATE XIII MEDIÆVAL SIEGE TOWER
TRAPGET]
CHAPTER VIII
WAR ENGINES PAST AND PRESENT
=A War Engine= (Plate XIII). This piece of artillery was used at the
time of the crusade of Richard I. It is a simple and interesting model
to make. The sides (A B C D in Fig. 325) are built up of pieces of
stripwood 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch, length about 3 inches, or the sides
may be pieces of cigar-box. If made of stripwood, grooves can be filed
in the two bottom pieces to make holes, E, when these pieces are glued
together. A round rod passes through these holes to form a windlass. Two
posts, F and G, 1/4" × 1/2" × 3-1/4", are glued to the sides about 1-1/2
inches from end, A C, as in figure; these must either have holes drilled
through them for a rod of wood (or thick wire) or have circular grooves
filed in the tops into which a rod can be glued.
[Illustration: FIG. 325]
The sides _a b c d_ and A B C D should be about 2-1/2 inches apart, and
are kept together by pieces of stripwood glued across the bottom. Make
struts as in the figure to support posts F and G.
The beam H K may be made from a piece of stripwood, 1/2 × 1/2 × 5",
filed to a round shape. Two pieces of wire, L L, are bent to form a fork
and two hooks, M and N are bound firmly to one end with thread. The
other end, K, has a small screw-eye screwed into it through which passes
a wooden bolt to keep the rings of lead, O, from slipping off. These
rings of lead are easily made from strips cut from a piece of sheet lead
and bent round the beam. (A pair of old scissors should be kept for
cutting lead, or a knife and hammer may be used.)
Now the beam H K must be fastened to rod P Q. This may be done in
different ways. The simplest but least effective way is to bind the beam
firmly in the middle to the rod with thread or elastic.
A second way is to drill a hole through the beam, through which the
thread or elastic that binds it to the rod can pass. The best way
perhaps is to make the hole in the beam large enough for rod P Q to
pass through, and then bind it to the rod with elastic or thread or, if
a large model is being made, catgut. (A jeweller is generally ready to
give away a small quantity of this.) A barrel, R, can be filed or cut
from a small piece of wood or cork, or it may be a small reel.
To work the machine pull the beam down by means of a piece of thread
looped on to the hook M and wound around the windlass. When the beam
head is down, place the barrel on the fork and keep it in position by
rope, S. When the beam head is released, it flies up and the barrel is
shot forward.
This trapget or war engine was used for casting Greek fire, with which
the barrel was filled. It may interest the maker of this toy to know its
composition. In the words of an old writer: "You make Greek fire thus:
Take quick-sulphur, dregs of wine, Persian gum, 'baked salt,' pitch,
petroleum, and common oil. Boil these together. Then whatever is placed
therein and lighted, whether wood or iron, cannot be extinguished except
with vinegar or salt."
[Illustration: FIG. 326]
Generally this engine had a kind of wooden hood in front to protect
those working the machine (Fig. 326). This hood is easily made of
stripwood or an old cigar-box. Notice that the stripwood that forms the
sides, A B C D, must be longer (extended in diagram to S T), so that
strips of wood, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, can be nailed and glued as in diagram.
The =Mangonel=, Fig. 327 (an instrument for casting great stones to beat
down walls and to slay the enemy), makes an interesting toy.
[Illustration: FIG. 327]
[Illustration: FIG. 328]
[Illustration: FIG. 329]
[Illustration: FIG. 330]
First cut two pieces of wood, 10-1/4 inches by 1-3/4 inches (the sides
of a wooden chocolate box will do when sawn the right size and filed),
and shape them as in Fig. 328. Saw slits in both pieces at G, 1/4 inch
wide and 1/2 inch deep. If two saw-cuts are made for each slit the wood
between can be cut away with a pen-knife. These slits must be about
2-3/4 inches from end, _b d_.
With a round file make semicircles at _c_ and _e_ to hold the rollers on
which the engine is moved into position.
With a bradawl and round file make holes, F, in both pieces about 3-1/2
inches from end, A (diameter of hole about 3/8 inch, or larger if a
larger windlass is required).
Put these two pieces aside, and next saw a length of stripwood, 1/2"
× 1/2" × 5"; saw a slit about 1/4 inch from one end and hammer it on
the metal top of a bottle of Le Page's liquid glue as in Fig. 329. The
corner _a_ should be cut or filed off. A small screw-eye is screwed
into the wood just below the metal top. Saw a piece of stripwood, 1/2"
× 1/4" × 3-1/2", tie this firmly with elastic to the other end of the
first piece of stripwood as in Fig. 330. This elastic constitutes the
propulsive force. The ancients used catgut, which formed a thick coil,
stretched from H to K, the lever passing through the middle of the coil.
The pulling down of the lever gave additional twist to the coil, which
reacted strongly on release. Now fasten the sides _a b c d_ and A B C D
together by nailing and glueing them to two pieces of stripwood, 1/2" ×
1/2" × 2-1/4". Then glue H K securely into the slots G so that the beam
with the stone-holder M is upright. Push a round stick through the holes
F, for a windlass; this can have holes drilled in the portions that
project, to hold sticks for turning the rod. A piece of thread is tied
to the screw-eye Q, and wound round the windlass F; when this thread is
tightened the beam is pulled down, then when let go it flies up, causing
anything placed in the tin, M, to be shot some distance. The safest
'stones' to put in this pan are pieces of cork or small pieces of wood.
The following additions can be made to the model:
(1) RR are pieces of stripwood, 1/2" × 1/4" × 4", glued to
the sides and carrying a strip, T. This strip T in the olden days
was covered with leather and was so placed that the beam carrying
the stone-holder would abut against it. Notice the struts W for
supporting the posts R.
(2) N O is a rod (about 1/4 inch in diameter) passing through
two small screw-eyes fixed in a piece of stripwood, S, 1/2" × 1/4"
× 3-1/4". A piece of strong wire, P, passes through hole in rod N
O; it is bent so that it cannot work out, and the other end is bent
to just catch the holder, M, when it is pulled down. A releasing
handle is fastened to the rod, N O at O. The beam S is glued into
slots in A B C D and _a b c d_, so that when the beam is pulled
down the catch P clutches M.
(3) Small screw-eyes may be screwed in at A, _a_, B, _b_, for
holding ropes to fasten the machine to pegs in the ground. Rollers
may also be made to fit under C and E.
This toy is an attractive one, because it really works successfully. It
must be strongly put together, for the beam when pulled down flies up
with considerable force.
Stone-throwers like this were used at the siege of Acre. Very often
these engines had special names given to them. For example Philip of
France had a very good engine of war called 'The Bad Neighbour,' and
inside Acre the Turks had one called 'The Bad Kinsman.'
=Cannons of the Fourteenth Century.= These are very easily made. Figs.
331 and 332 show two that can be copied.
In Fig. 331 a piece of wood is cut to the shape of A B; a groove is then
filed in it, into which the cannon C is glued. The cannon may be made
of a roll of brown paper (two pieces may be pasted together for greater
strength) with four bands of cartridge paper painted yellow and gummed
round it, or it may be a piece of wood filed to shape and circled with
bands of lead.
[Illustration: FIG. 331]
[Illustration: FIG. 332]
[Illustration: FIG. 333]
The cannon in Fig. 332 consists of two cardboard wheels on an axle of
stripwood, 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch, and the cannon is glued to a groove in
the axle. It may be made of wood with a lead rim, or of two rolls of
brown paper as in Fig. 333, where the flanges of the smaller roll A are
gummed to flanges of B.
=Cannon of the Fifteenth Century.= This may be made of a short
mantle-box (with lids on), cardboard wheels and pieces of stripwood, 1/4
inch by 1/4 inch. Fig. 334 shows the finished cannon. The stripwood cart
which the cannon rests on must be made to fit the mantle-box; the shafts
_a_ may be straight or curved. Round holes may be cut at _b_. This same
cannon may be fitted with axles, and swing between two posts. The wheels
should be painted black, and the mantle-box covered with black paper,
with bands of yellow paper at 1, 2 and 3.
[Illustration: FIG. 334]
[Illustration: FIG. 335]
Toward the end of the fifteenth century artillery was much improved.
Fig. 335 shows a gun that is interesting to make.
The carriage consists of two pieces of stripwood, 1/2" × 1/4" × 8" (_a
b_ and _c d_ in Fig. 335). A cannon, E, is made out of a roll of brown
paper, length 3-1/2 inches, diameter about 3/4 inch, and glued between
_a b_ and _c d_, or it may simply rest on cross-pieces of wood joining
_a b_ and _c d_. G is a piece of wood, 1/4" × 3/4" × 3-1/2", turning
on a pin or piece of wire, H, which passes through _a b_ and _c d_.
_a b_ and _c d_ are glued to a piece of stripwood F (1/4 inch by 1/4
inch) which has its projecting ends rounded to receive two cardboard
wheels. The great fault of these earlier cannons was that though they
were often of immense bore and weight, throwing balls of from one to
five hundredweights, they were for the most part without carriages, and
therefore very difficult to move about and very slow in their operations.
The Scots were the first to anticipate the modern gun-carriage by what
they called 'carts of war,' which carried two guns. Many of the guns of
the English required fifty horses to drag them!
='Mons Meg'= (a fifteenth-century cannon still to be seen at Edinburgh
Castle) is an easy model to make.
[Illustration: FIG. 336]
Parts A and B (Fig. 336) are drawn on cardboard, cut out and coloured
(brown and black). They are joined together by strips of cardboard at _a
b_ and _c d_. To the cardboard at _a b_ the cannon is gummed. The wheels
are of cardboard, the axle of stripwood (1/4 inch by 1/4 inch). Mons Meg
fired a granite ball weighing 300 lb.
=A Tudor Cannon= (Fig. 337). The sides A A may be cut out of cardboard
or, better still, of three-ply wood with the fret-saw. The wheels are
solid discs and may also be cut out with the fret-saw, holes being
drilled in the centre for the axle. The cannon itself can be shaped out
of wood with pen-knife and file, or a cardboard roll (such as is used
for transmitting music or pictures) can be used, the thicker parts are
then made by gumming additional pieces of cardboard round it, or glueing
strips of lead.
[Illustration: FIG. 337]
It is difficult to discover when gunpowder was first used. Probably its
use was learnt from the Saracens in the fourteenth century. Roger Bacon
(? 1214-1294) suggested that it might be used in warfare.
In a Florentine document of 1326 mention is made of the use of gunpowder
in Europe. The first use of the cannon recorded in English history is in
1327, when Edward III was at war with Scotland.
In making the guns described in this chapter it is necessary to
distinguish between breech-loading cannons and muzzle-loading.
The breech-loader is loaded from the breech or rear end of the barrel
and not at the muzzle. Figs. 334, 335 and 337 are examples of this kind
and therefore must have a hole at each end.
Figs. 331 and 332 are examples of muzzle-loading cannons and therefore
have holes only at one end.
During the sixteenth century breech-loading was gradually abandoned for
muzzle-loading owing to the large escape of gas and air at the breech.
It was not until 1860 that it was reverted to with great improvements.
[Illustration: FIG. 338]
=A Ship Cannon.= A piece of wood (about 1/4 inch thick, the side of a
wooden chocolate-box or any other light box will do) is first sawn out
5-1/2 inches by 2 inches (A in Fig. 338). Another piece of wood, B,
4-1/2 inches by 2 inches, is cut and glued on the first piece. Three
pieces of stripwood 1/4 inch by 1/2 inch, C, D, E, are cut to lengths
3-1/2 inches, 2-3/4 inches, 2 inches respectively. These are glued on
one side as in the figure, and similar strips are cut and glued to the
other side. Two pieces of stripwood, F, 1/2" × 1/2" × 1-1/2", have holes
drilled half way through them, to receive the pivots of the gun, but
must not be glued on to E until the gun is in position.
The cannon is made of a roll of brown paper 6 inches long; one end
should be narrower than the other (the widest end say 1 inch in
diameter, the narrowest end 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch).
[Illustration: FIG. 339]
The roll must be securely fastened together by seccotine, two layers of
brown paper make a strong cannon; black paper is then pasted over it
and bands of brown paper as in Fig. 339. A hole is pierced through the
cannon about half-way along it, and a round stick, K M, passed through;
this pivot should be just long enough to fit into blocks F when these
are fixed and glued in position.
Before this is done, the wheels should be made and fastened on. This is
an easy matter. Two lengths of stripwood (1/4 inch by 1/2 inch) are cut
2-1/4 inches long. The little wheels (3/4 inch in diameter) are cut from
any round rod available, or if no rod can be obtained they may be cut
out of cardboard. Holes are drilled in the wheels and nails with large
heads passed through and driven into the stripwood. The axles are either
glued or nailed to the bottom of A. Finally the pivot, K M, is fitted
into its blocks, and these are glued into position. A wedge can be made
to slip in under the cannon to raise and lower it. The wedge should be
just wide enough to slip in between the two layers of stripwood.
[Illustration: FIG. 340]
[Illustration: FIG. 341]
=A Modern Breech-loading Field Gun= (Fig. 341). This is a simple toy
to make. A piece of stripwood, A, 1/4" × 1/4" × 2", must first be cut,
and the ends, B and C, rounded for about 1/2 inch (Fig. 340). Next two
pieces of stripwood, D and E, 1/4" × 1/4" × 1-1/4", are cut. These must
have their tops rounded as in Fig. 341, and have holes drilled through
them to receive a rounded match, G. F is a piece of wood 1/2" × 1/4" ×
5/8". Pieces F, D and E are glued or nailed to A. Before the pivot G is
put in position the cannon must be made. This is a roll of black paper,
3-3/4 inches long, 1/2 inch in diameter at widest end, and 1/4 inch at
the narrowest. Holes are made through it to receive the pivot. The ends
of the match sticks that project beyond D and E can be cut off. Next the
wheels are cut. These may be cardboard discs of diameter 1-3/8 inches.
A piece of wood, H, is next cut, 1/2" × 1/2" × 4-1/2", and worked to the
shape shown in Fig. 341. The end L must be sawn at an angle, so that
when H is glued on, D is perpendicular. The end L is glued to the piece
of wood, F. K is a piece of cardboard with a hole through it for pulling
the cannon along; it is glued to end M.
The wheels, etc., should be painted black or grey. The cannon itself
may be made of white paper and painted grey or yellow, or else made of
yellow or light brown paper.
A =Cart= must next be made to carry ammunition for the cannon. The
shells for the cannon described would be about 2-1/4 inches long, so
the cart must be 2-1/2 inches long, and 1-3/4 inches wide (Fig. 342).
It can be made of wood or cardboard. Notice the end to which the lid is
attached.
[Illustration: FIG. 342]
[Illustration: FIG. 343]
[Illustration: FIG. 344]
The wheels must be the same size as those used for the cannon and can be
made and attached in the same way to an axle, but this axle must project
some distance beyond the wheel, as in Fig. 343, and have a groove filed
round it, so that short chains may be fastened on each side; ropes are
attached to these chains to allow the cart to be pulled along by hand.
Fig. 344 shows the shaft. It is 1-1/2 times the length of the cart. It
can be made of strips of cardboard or wood. Matches painted black make
good shells.
CHAPTER IX
A FIRE-ESCAPE (PLATE XIV)
To make this toy, plenty of used matches are required, and some strips
of light wood (that obtained from a soap-box or chocolate-box will do)
and liquid glue.
Two lengths of wood, Q R and S T, are cut 12-1/2" × 1/2" × 1/4", and one
long edge of each is rounded. These pieces are sand-papered if they are
rough or uneven.
Twenty-three pencil dots half an inch apart are marked down the middle
of the widest side of one piece. The two pieces are then clamped
together (the piece with the 23 marks on top), and holes drilled through
them both together with an Archimedean drill.
Next seventeen matches are taken, and cut exactly to the length 1-3/4
inches; the ends are tapered so that they will fit in the holes drilled.
Beginning from one end of one long strip, hammer these matches in the
first seventeen holes, place the second long strip of wood on top of
these matches, so that the first seventeen holes are exactly over the
seventeen matches and hammer it on. (Be careful to hammer in between
the holes, a file makes a good hammer.) Hammer first one strip, and
then the other until the matches are driven firmly in the holes, as far
as they will go; file away all projecting ends of matches. Through the
eighteenth hole of Q R and S T, a long piece of wood, A B, must pass to
project 1-1/3 inches on each side of the ladder (Fig. 345).
Two pieces of wood, 3-1/2" × 1/2" × 1/4" (C D and E F), are cut, and
have six holes drilled in them; these six holes must be marked off from
the six remaining holes in the main ladder, so that they will come
exactly opposite them; these pieces are secured to the main ladder by
matches, and by the cross-piece, A B. The whole ladder is then glued
to a strip of wood, G H, 1/2 inch by 1/4 inch of a length equal to the
total width of the ladder. This can be put aside for a time.
Next the shaft in Fig. 346 is made. K P is the same length as G H in
Fig. 345 and about 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch; K M, L N, O J, P U are each
4-1/4 inches long, they are the same distances apart as C G, Q R, S T
and E H in Fig. 345. They are held together by strips, V, W, X, Y, Z.
These strips may be matches; in this case they must be inserted first,
and then the whole of K M P U is glued to K P.
[Illustration: FIG. 345]
[Illustration: FIG. 346]
[Illustration: FIG. 347]
This shaft is fastened to the main ladder in Fig. 345 midway between A B
and G H, so that when the shaft is horizontal the main ladder makes an
angle of 72° with it.
Fig. 347 shows the shaft M K, P U, attached to the main ladder; it is
supported in its place by four struts, two on each side (_a_ and _b_
in Fig. 347). Care must be taken to saw off the ends M, N, J, U (Fig.
346) so that they rest exactly against C D, R Q, S T, E F (Fig. 345),
at about an angle of 72°. The ends of the struts must also be carefully
bevelled to fit; the main ladder can then be glued to the shaft and the
struts to the main ladder and shaft.
Small wheels of cardboard or wood are nailed (as for ship's cannon) at
each end of G H.
An axle for the larger wheels must be made to be glued on K P (Fig.
347). Care must be taken in deciding on the size of the large wheels,
the diameter must be such a length that the shaft, K M P U, is parallel
to the ground.
[Illustration: PLATE XIV FIRE-ESCAPE]
Next the back portion shown on the plate is made similarly to the shaft
shown in Fig. 346. It is glued to G H so as to be at right angles to
the main ladder. Pieces of wire bent and pushed into holes in C D and E
F form railings. Pieces of stout thread are attached to strengthen the
whole, as shown in the plate. An extra ladder (necessarily narrower)
can be made to rest on the bar, X, and lean inside a piece of bent wire
as shown. The wheels can be made of cardboard or sawn from any of the
materials suggested in Part I, Chapter XIII.
_Note._--In making the fire-escape it will be a help to cut out two
cardboard angles of 72°, these help to keep the shaft K M P U in the
right position while the glue is drying.
CHAPTER X
CASTLE, TOURNAMENT, AND FAIR
=A Castle= (Plate XV). Fig. 348 is an example of a mediæval castle and
is somewhat similar to the Castle of Chaluz, which was besieged by
Richard I. It is made of cardboard of medium thickness. First make the
four towers, A, B, C, D Fig. 349. Cut a piece of cardboard 10 inches by
8-1/4 inches.
[Illustration: FIG. 348]
[Illustration: FIG. 349]
Divide this as in Fig. 350, and make half cuts along the dotted lines.
Cut out the windows. Fold and gum together. Make the other towers in the
same way.
To make overhanging battlements, cut pieces of stripwood 1/2 inch by
1/4 inch the correct length, and glue them round the tops of the towers
(Fig. 351). Then cut out pieces of cardboard as in Fig. 352, and gum
these to the wood. It is best to cut a strip of cardboard long enough
for two sides only, and to make a half cut at the bend; then to cut
another strip for the other two sides. Small pieces can be cut off a
length of stripwood, 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch, and glued underneath, as _a_,
_b_, _c_, in Fig. 351.
[Illustration: FIG. 350]
[Illustration: FIG. 351]
[Illustration: FIG. 352]
[Illustration: FIG. 353]
[Illustration: FIG. 354]
Next make the sides, M, N, O, P; these are about 3 inches in width, but
a 1/2 inch must be allowed on each side for flanges for fastening them
to the towers; in height they just reach the battlements of the towers.
Make battlements as described, cut out the windows and fasten these
sides to the four towers. Colour this part suitably. To make a flat
roof for Q (Fig. 349), cut eight lengths of stripwood 1/4 inch by 1/4
inch just long enough to come about 1/2 inch below the battlements of
the sides, M, N, O, P, and glue these into the eight corners of Q. Cut
a piece of cardboard to fit over Q, cut doors in this for access to the
roof, and glue it to the tops of the pieces of stripwood.
To make towers E and F. Cut a piece of cardboard, 7 inches by 10 inches.
Mark it out as in Fig. 353, and make half cuts along the dotted lines;
the narrow strips at each end are flanges for fastening the tower E, to
A and C. Make battlements round the top, colour, mark the windows and
door, and gum to A and C; make F in the same way. G and H are similar
towers 2-1/2 inches square and 7 inches high. The four towers, E, F,
G, H, can be covered with roofs in the way already described. G and H
are fastened to E and F respectively, by pieces of cardboard 5 inches
long and about 4-1/2 inches high. G is fastened to H by L, which is
about 7-1/2 inches long and 4-1/2 inches high. A door can be made in L,
leading into the courtyard, Q.
Cut a piece of cardboard, R in Fig. 348, about 2-1/3 inches high, and
gum it to the side of E to form a wall; between the latter and tower a
fit a flight of steps. These are marked out as in Fig. 354.
Make half cuts along the lines marked----; turn the cardboard over
and make half cuts on the other side along the dotted lines; bend in
alternate directions. Flanges may be added to each step.
A =Tournament= (Plate XV). Fig. 355 shows a royal tent at a tournament.
The platform inside may be made of 12 match-boxes (A, B, C, D, E, F
show the six foremost ones) or of any suitable cardboard box. Pieces
of cardboard, G H K L and M N O P, are gummed on each side. _a b c d_
is a piece of cardboard gummed to a match-box and placed in front of
the opening between H L and M O. Paper steps may be made to lead from
the ground to the top of the match-box, and thence to the top of the
platform.
The roof, S, is a piece of paper, bent along T V, to fit the triangular
tops of the cardboard sides, Q and R, to which it is fastened by paper
hinges. A piece of cardboard is gummed at the back. Flags, etc., may be
added.
X and Z show stands at the back for the more ordinary spectators. They
are simply strips of cardboard, suitably painted and gummed for support
to match-boxes or strips of wood.
The railings shown in the plate are made of cardboard or stripwood, and
placed in suitable positions to represent the lists. If the railings are
made of cardboard they should be fitted into a groove in a piece of wood
to enable them to stand.
[Illustration: CASTLE AND TOURNAMENT]
[Illustration: PLATE XV MEDIÆVAL FAIR]
Across the enclosed space, and parallel to the royal tent, a partition
is placed to separate the combatant knights. It may be made of cardboard
or wood (see Fig. 356).
[Illustration: FIG. 355]
[Illustration: FIG. 356]
Two circular tents made of cardboard and paper stand at each side; in
these the knights put on their armour.
In Fig. 357 A is a cardboard disc to which the paper covering C is
gummed by a flange; B is a post which is glued into a hole in the middle
of the cardboard disc and rests on the ground inside the tent.
The horses are made of corks and matches as described in previous
chapters. A piece of coloured paper (A in Fig. 358) is gummed over the
horse's back. The saddle, B, is a piece of coloured paper, gummed to A.
The bridle is cut out of paper.
Knights may be cut out of paper as in Fig. 359. Two pieces of paper
should be cut out, of the same shape except that one arm bears a lance,
the other a shield; gum the head and upper part of the body together;
the knight can be fastened to the horse by gumming his legs to the
trappings, A.
Heralds, a king and queen to sit in the royal box (for which a bench
must be made), spectators, etc., may be drawn and cut out, or suitable
figures can sometimes be cut from old history books or advertisements.
The background may consist of trees or of a castle. In a similar way,
with cork horses, etc., a procession of the Canterbury pilgrims can be
made.
[Illustration: FIG. 357]
[Illustration: FIG. 358]
[Illustration: FIG. 359]
=A Fair in the Days of Henry VIII= (Plate XV). The plate shows the
background of the fair. It is a piece of cardboard, with houses drawn
upon it and coloured; behind it are fastened two cardboard supports
which enable it to stand upright. This piece of cardboard should be as
long as possible, to give plenty of room for many booths to be placed in
front of it. Fig. 360 shows a booth at which cloth and woollen materials
are sold.
The covering of the booth is made of paper. The tables may be of
different shapes in different stalls. In the cloth merchant's stall,
rolls of coloured paper are piled up to represent bales of cloth. To the
pole is tied a sheep cut out of cardboard. An apothecary's booth with
its red and white pole can be made. Shelves of cardboard, supported on
little pieces of wood glued to the posts of the tent, may be fastened
round three sides of the booth; cardboard bottles are cut out, painted
and fastened to the shelves by paper hinges, or bottles can be made of
plasticine.
[Illustration: FIG. 360]
Other booths may be added, one for 'ribbons of all the colours of the
rainbow,' others for books, leather, ironmongery, pewter and silver
articles for the table, etc.
CHAPTER XI
AN OLD CHARIOT AND SOME QUAINT DOLLS' FURNITURE
Fig. 361 shows a quaint swinging chariot of the eleventh century; it can
be made of stout cartridge paper, cardboard and stripwood (1/4 inch by
1/4 inch).
[Illustration: FIG. 361]
First draw on cartridge paper two arcs of a circle (about 3-inch
radius), _a b c_ and _d e f_ in Fig. 362; join them by straight lines _a
d_ and _c f_. This is for the floor of the chariot.
To make the sides, draw arc G H K (Fig. 363) with same radius, but
portions G L and M K project about 1 inch beyond the arc _a b c_ in Fig.
362. Join G and K by the curved line, G N K. Draw the flange O P. Colour
the side yellow and brown, cut out. Bend the flange O L M P and gum it
to _a b c_ in Fig. 362. Draw and cut out the other side in a similar
manner and gum it on; the chariot will then appear as in Fig. 361. Two
seats of paper can be gummed inside.
[Illustration: FIG. 362]
Two pieces of stripwood (1/4 inch by 1/4 inch), A and B in Fig. 361, are
then cut; their height must be determined by the size of the car. Two
small screw-eyes are screwed in at C and D (Fig. 361), from which the
car is slung by pieces of thread or wire. The posts, A and B, are glued
and nailed to the middle of the axles, which must be flat, the ends only
being rounded for the wheels. Pieces of stripwood (1/4 inch by 1/4 inch)
or strips of cardboard, C, connect the axles on each side.
[Illustration: FIG. 363]
The wheels are cardboard discs, with a pattern drawn on them as in the
figure, and painted yellow and brown.
Fig. 364 shows a pretty chair for a doll's house. It is a copy of a
carved oak chair of the fourteenth century. It is made of wood or
cardboard. If made of cardboard, a small square box may be used for the
seat, A, to which the sides and back are gummed. The sides and back
should be cut in one, with half-cuts down _A B_ and _C D_, where the
cardboard is bent and gummed to the box. The chair should be painted a
very light brown with dark brown markings. It looks well if made out of
the wood of a cigar-box.
[Illustration: FIG. 364]
[Illustration: FIG. 365]
Fig. 365 gives a pattern of a fourteenth-century bed that goes with the
chair, A can be an oblong box, covered with paper suitably coloured
(light brown with panels of dark brown). B and C are pieces of cardboard
(painted as indicated) gummed to each end of the box; four pieces of
stripwood, D (1/4 inch by 1/4 inch), are glued on to the cardboard.
This bed is easily made of wood. A may be a cigar-box, or the bed can be
made of separate pieces of wood carefully glued and nailed together.
[Illustration: FIG. 366]
[Illustration: FIG. 367]
[Illustration: FIG. 368]
[Illustration: FIG. 369]
=A Fire-place= (Fig. 366). This toy is made of wood and cardboard.
Its size will depend upon the doll's house for which it is made. The
mantelpiece, D, is a piece of wood glued and nailed to two wooden
supports, E and F. To the back of these a piece of cardboard, A, is
glued. This is coloured to look like tiles, and space C is painted
black. The grate is made of cardboard (Fig. 367). The shaded portions
are cut out and half cuts are made along the dotted lines. It is
coloured black, bent as in Fig. 366 and gummed to the cardboard back.
The fender is of wood, and is glued to E and F and to a cardboard
bottom, B, which is coloured to represent tiles.
The grate may also be made of pieces of wire bent to shape and passed
through holes in two pieces of wood (Fig. 368), which are then gummed to
A.
Fire-dogs can be made from matches glued together as in Fig. 369. A
poker and shovel can be cut from cardboard. The most convenient sizes
of stripwood from which to make this toy are lengths of 1/2 inch by
1/4 inch for supports E and F, lengths of 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch for the
fender, and 1 inch by 1/4 inch for the mantelpiece.
CHAPTER XII
RAILWAY SIGNAL AND SIGNAL-BOX
[Illustration: FIG. 370]
[Illustration: FIG. 371]
=A Railway Signal.= Fig. 370 shows a simple method of making this toy.
A is a piece of stripwood about 11" × 1/2" × 1/4", fastened to a wooden
stand. Holes are bored in A at F about 1/2 inch from the top and at G
about 2-1/2 inches from the ground. The arm, C, is a piece of cardboard
3 inches by 1/2 inch with a red band painted across it. The lever, D,
is a smaller piece of cardboard. C and D are fastened to A by pieces of
wire or by rivets so that they move freely up and down. B is a narrow
strip of stiff cardboard fastened by small paper-clips to C and D. When
the lever, D, is pulled down, the arm, C, is pushed up. A small nail is
put in at E to keep the arm from rising too high.
Fig. 371 shows a railway signal which can be worked by a lever placed at
any distance away.
In this model the arm, F, is a piece of wood about 4" × 1/2" × 1/4".
Into one end is fixed a screw-eye, A. About 1/2 inch from this end bore
a hole. Nail the arm through this hole to the post about 3/4 inches from
the top, so that it moves freely on the nail. B is a piece of wood, 2" ×
1/2" × 1/4". Make three holes in it. Nail it through the middle hole to
the post, 3 inches from the ground, so that it turns freely on the nail.
Take a piece of fairly strong wire, fasten one end to A and the other to
B. A weight (a lead button) is needed to keep the arm of the signal up.
Attach this weight, C, by a piece of thread to B, as in the figure. Tie
a piece of thread to D, pass it through a small screw-eye, E, fixed on
the stand. When this string is pulled the arm is lowered.
This toy may be worked entirely with thread. Tie a piece of thread from
A to C, taking care to keep the lever B in the position shown in the
figure; then tie another piece from a small nail at F to D. A small nail
should be put in at G to prevent the arm from rising too high.
The stand and the shaded part of the signal post should be painted
black, the rest of the post is white, the arm is white with a red band.
=A Signal-box= (Plate VIII). For the foundation of the signal-box, take
a piece of wood 9 inches by 4 inches, A B C D (Fig. 372). Cut two pieces
of wood, 4-1/2 inches by 4 inches. Glue and nail these to A B C D (E and
F in Fig. 372). Next cut four pieces of wood, G H J K, 1/4" × 1/4" ×
6-1/2". Glue these to E and F. Measure and cut two pieces of wood, M and
L, to fit in between K and J, and G and H. Glue these in position. Next
measure and cut out a piece of cardboard, N (Fig. 374), that will fit
in between the posts, G H J K, and rest on the sides, E and F, and the
ends, L and M. This forms the floor of the signal-box.
Measure and cut two pieces of cardboard that will fit across the space
between the posts G and K. Mark and cut out windows in these as shown
in the plate, and glue them on each side to the posts. Next cut out two
pieces of cardboard, 9 inches by 4 inches (Fig. 375). Measure along
the sides the distances C J and K B; find the middle, O, of top, join
O K and O J, and cut off the shaded portions. Make half cuts along the
dotted lines and bend back the flanges to which the roof is fastened.
In one piece make a door, the bottom of which must be on a level with
the floor. A window may be cut out in the door, or simply drawn in with
pencil and painted; on the other side, mark and cut out a window similar
to the window in the sides. Glue these pieces in position. Make the roof
of cardboard as described in the case of the Noah's Ark, and glue it to
the flanges.
[Illustration: FIG. 372]
[Illustration: FIG. 373]
[Illustration: FIG. 374]
[Illustration: FIG. 375]
[Illustration: FIG. 376]
_The Porch._ For the platform of the porch cut a piece of wood 1-3/4
inches by 1-1/4 inches. Cut two sides, 2-3/4 inches by 1-1/4 inches.
Glue and nail these to the platform. Cut two supports as shown in the
plate, and glue these to the ends just underneath the door, so that
when the porch rests on them, and the door is open, the floor of the
porch is level with the floor of the signal-box. Next cut the two outer
posts, glue them into position as shown in the plate, and glue the
platform of the porch on the four posts. The roof of the porch is cut
from cardboard, with flanges to be glued to the end of the signal-box.
The slope of the roof should be parallel to that of the roof of the
signal-box.
Make a ladder as described in Chapter IX. Bevel the ends of the ladder
as in Fig. 376 so that it can be glued into position. Glue two small
posts on each side and glue two strips of cardboard to these and to the
sides of the porch for railings.
Windows may be painted in the wooden sides, the rest is coloured to
represent bricks; the window sashes are dark green or brown, and the
roof grey.
[Illustration: FIG. 377]
From this signal-box the signal shown in Fig. 371 can be worked in a
very simple manner. Fig. 377 shows the arrangement. Through a hole, A,
in the floor fits a wooden lever, B C. Pass the thread belonging to the
signal through a small hole in the side of the box, then through a small
screw-eye at O, and tie it to the end of the rod. When the lever, B, is
pushed over the signal arm is lowered.
A small nail is put through the lever just above A, to act as a fulcrum.
The side F (Fig. 377) may have large windows which open to enable the
child to insert his hand and push the lever. If the signal-post is set
up some distance away from the signal-box, it may be found necessary to
add another weight.
CHAPTER XIII
LIGHTHOUSE, TRANSPORTER BRIDGE
=A Lighthouse= (Plate XVI). This lighthouse is similar to one called
the Gull Island Light in Newfoundland. It is a hexagonal column and is
therefore somewhat easier to make than a circular structure.
[Illustration: FIG. 378]
[Illustration: FIG. 379]
The main column is 9 inches high, and each of the six faces is 2 inches.
Cut out a piece of cardboard, of medium thickness, 9 inches by 12-1/4
inches (Fig. 378). Divide it into six parts 2 inches in width, leaving a
flange 1/4 inch wide at the end for fastening the column together. Make
half cuts along the dotted lines. Cut out a door and windows, and two
holes, G and H, 1/4 inch square. Fold and gum together. The hexagonal
column above the first platform is 2-1/2 inches high, sides 2 inches;
that above the second platform is 2 inches high, sides 1-1/2 inches.
Before folding and gumming the top column, or lantern, together, windows
must be cut out. It is easier to cut the windows out completely and
gum the bars behind the openings. A door is cut just above the first
platform as shown in the plate. The top of the lantern is a hexagonal
pyramid 1-1/2 inches high, edges 2 inches. To make this, the length of
one of the sloping edges (as _a' d'_ in Fig. 380) must be found.
[Illustration: FIG. 380]
[Illustration: FIG. 381]
Draw a line _a b_ (Fig. 381) 2 inches long. This is one edge of the
hexagonal base. On it make an equilateral triangle _a c b_. This is
the same as triangle _a' c' b'_ in Fig. 380. At _c_ (Fig. 381) draw
_c d_ at right angles to _a c_; make _c d_ equal to the height of the
pyramid--namely, 1-1/2 inches; join _a d_; this is the length of one of
the sloping edges (_a' d'_ in Fig. 380). With radius _a d_ describe a
circle (Fig. 379). Mark along its circumference the distance _a b_, six
times; join _a_ to _b_, _b_ to _c_, etc., and join each point to the
centre. Cut off the shaded portions, leaving a flange for fastening, and
make half-cuts along the dotted lines. Bend and gum together.
The first platform shown in the plate is a circle of cardboard or wood,
radius 3 inches. Holes are made round the edge.
To this the upper column is fastened by paper hinges, unless the columns
have been provided with flanges at top and bottom. Glue match sticks or
pieces of cane, about 1 inch in length, into the holes in the platform
for railings, round which black thread may be tied. Now fasten the whole
to the main column so that the sides coincide.
In the same way the lantern is fastened to the upper platform and the
latter to the upper column, after similar railings have been made round
the upper platform. Lastly the pyramidal top is fixed on the lantern, by
either paper hinges or flanges. Now cut a piece of stripwood, 1/4 inch
by 1/4 inch, of the right length, so that it passes through the holes G
and H in the lower column and projects about 1/8 inch over the doorway;
into this projecting end screw a small screw-eye, pass a piece of string
through it and bring the ends inside the door. This is the pulley by
means of which goods are hauled up from the boat into the lighthouse.
A ladder can be made of matches (as described in Chapter IX); two wire
hooks are inserted at the ends, and it is hung to the doorway.
The lighthouse can be coloured grey and fastened to a piece of cardboard
painted blue.
[Illustration: PLATE XVI A LIGHTHOUSE]
=A Transporter Bridge.= The supports for this bridge, A and B (Fig.
382), are two small wooden Bovril boxes (those containing one dozen
one-ounce tins); their bottoms have been knocked out and they are
mounted on wooden supports or on two smaller boxes of about the same
width.
[Illustration: FIG. 382]
Take two lengths of stripwood, C, D, 2' × 1/2" × 1/4"; on to each of
these glue and nail a similar length of stripwood, 1/4 inch by 1/4
inch (Fig. 383). Next the overhead trolley should be made (Fig. 384).
The axles G and H are about 3-1/2" × 1/4" × 1/4". The wheels are made
of wood and can be cut from an old broom handle. Before these are put
on, the two pieces E and F, which are 3-1/2" × 1/4" × 1/4", are glued
to G and H. C and D are placed so that the trolley runs easily along
their ledges, the distance between them is measured and two pieces
of stripwood (J in Fig. 383) are cut, by means of which C and D are
fastened together. This frame can rest on A and B. There is no need to
fasten it permanently.
To each end of H and G, very small screw-eyes are screwed, K in
Fig. 383, to which the strings or chains which support the car are
attached--also two screw-eyes are screwed in at H and G.
Fig. 385 shows part of the car and gives the necessary measurements.
Side R is made of stripwood, 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch. The gates at each
end are made of strips of cardboard. Four screw-eyes are placed in the
corner posts for hanging the car to trolley (see Fig. 382). Pieces
of thread are tied to the screw-eyes at H and G, and pass through
screw-eyes in the supports (T and U in Fig. 382). Two windlasses can
be made to stand on M and L, similar to the winding gear described in
making the crane (Chapter V), by means of which the car can be drawn
backward and forward. The bridge may stand across a piece of cardboard
painted to represent a river.
[Illustration: FIG. 383]
[Illustration: FIG. 384]
[Illustration: FIG. 385]
CHAPTER XIV
YACHTS AND BOATS; THE USE OF THE CHISEL
For the toys described hitherto, the chisel has hardly been required,
but to carve boats from a solid block of wood it becomes somewhat of a
necessity, the pen-knife being but a poor substitute. The use of the
chisel has been postponed owing to the dangers which attend its use.
However, when children have become accustomed to handle tools properly
and to respect them, they are no more likely to cut their hands with a
chisel than with a knife when sharpening pencils or peeling potatoes.
The following tools will be found useful in making exact models of
boats, hollowing them out, etc.:
(1) A 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch chisel. This is a good one to start with.
(2) A smaller chisel about 1/4 inch wide.
(3) A gouge. A 3/8 inch and a 5/8 inch gouge answer most purposes. This
is an indispensable tool when hollowing out a boat.
(4) A spoke-shave. This is used to smooth a curved surface after it has
been roughly cut with a chisel or knife. It is not really necessary,
as its work may be done with sand-paper or a file. However it is not
expensive, and it leaves the wood with a 'clean' surface much superior
to that obtained with sand-paper.
(5) A vice.
The best wood for making the following boats is _yellow deal_ or
_American white-wood_. This, though not expensive, must be bought. One
does not often find a piece of waste wood suitable for boat-making.
A very simple boat can be made in the following way. Procure a block of
wood about 7" × 1-1/2" × 2". On the top surface of the block draw a plan
of the boat as in Fig. 387; on the bottom surface draw the plan shown in
Fig. 388. Take care not to make the keel too narrow, especially in first
attempts at boat-making. The keel of this boat may be quite 1/4 inch
thick. See that it is really in the middle.
[Illustration: FIG. 386]
[Illustration: FIG. 387]
[Illustration: FIG. 388]
[Illustration: FIG. 389]
[Illustration: FIG. 390]
Mark on both sides of the boat the lines shown in elevation, Fig. 386.
Mark lines showing the stern elevation as in Fig. 389, at the other end
the stern, as in Fig. 390.
Now saw away as much surplus wood as possible. It is well to begin by
sawing along lines a b and _c d_ in Fig. 387, to roughly shape out bow.
If a very curved bow is desired, saw off the corner _e f g_ (Fig. 386).
To make the keel, saw along lines _a h_ and _c k_, about 1/4 inch deep
(Fig. 388), at the stern end saw down to M and N. Now carefully round
and model the sides and keel with gouge, chisel, spoke-shave and file,
or simply with chisel and file.
Before finishing off with sand-paper or spoke-shave, the boat should be
tried in the water, it will probably lean to one side; cut off a little
wood from this side and try again. (Be careful to dry your tools if they
get wet.) When the boat is properly balanced, nail a strip of lead along
the keel.
A hole may be bored on the deck for a mast.
_To make the Rudder._ Saw a piece of wood out about 1 inch by 2-1/4
inches (wood should be about 1/4 inch thick). Draw a rudder on it as in
Fig. 391, cut out this shape with saw and file. Round the top as at C
for the handle. Make holes with a fine bradawl and insert two pieces of
bent wire at _a_ and _b_. To put them in it is best to hold them with a
pair of pincers. Ordinary pins with their heads cut off do just as well
as wire. Make two wire loops and fix them in the stern of the boat (P
and Q in Fig. 386), that the rudder may hook on to these, care must be
taken that the eyes are exactly opposite the hooks. To make the tiller,
drill a hole in a piece of wood, as in Fig. 392, and file it large
enough to fit tightly round the top of the rudder, then work the tiller
to shape.
[Illustration: FIG. 391]
[Illustration: FIG. 392]
This boat can be hollowed out with the gouge. First draw line R R R R
round the boat (Fig. 387) to give the thickness of side. Before starting
on the actual boat, it is as well for the amateur to practise cutting a
few hollows. With satin walnut, pine, American white-wood, gouging is
not a difficult matter. When the boat is being gouged out it should if
possible be placed in a vice. (Always put a piece of thin wood between
the jaws of the vice and the article you wish to hold to prevent marks.)
Another way of hollowing the boat is to begin boring centre-bit holes
as close together as possible, being careful not to bore too deep,
then gouge out as much wood as you safely can, finish with file and
sand-paper. When the boat is hollowed out, seats can be made for it.
These should be cut the exact length of middle of boat, bevelled at the
ends, and fitted into the boat by forcing them into position.
[Illustration: FIG. 393]
[Illustration: FIG. 394]
[Illustration: FIG. 395]
Figs. 393, 394, 395 show elevation and plans of a common type of boat.
Saw off triangular pieces of wood to form the bow, cut out the stern
with the tenon saw and chisel. Model the sides and keel with gouge,
chisel and file as before. To put a rudder on this boat, notice that
a hole must be bored through the deck for the rudder to pass through.
There is no need in a boat like this, or indeed in any boat (when
practice has been attained), to saw out the keel, the gouge and chisel
are sufficient, but the sawing sometimes helps the beginner.
[Illustration: FIG. 396]
[Illustration: FIG. 397]
=A Schooner= (Plate IV). On a suitable piece of wood (a square prism,
length 3-1/2 times width) draw a line _a a_ (Fig. 396) on the surface
through the middle from end to end. Then draw a line across the middle
_b b_, and divide the surface in three by lines _c c_ and _d d_. Pencil
out the deck as in Fig. 396. Now here is a piece of advice that it is
well to follow in all boat-making. To mark off the deck make a cardboard
template the shape and size of one half, taken from the middle line, _a
a_. Lay the template on one half of the piece of wood and pencil round
the edge. Then turn the template over on the other side and pencil round
the edge again. In this way the shape of the deck is more accurate and
both sides are symmetrical, which is very important if the boat is to
float upright in the water. Now on the sides draw the elevation as in
Fig. 397.
Cardboard templates will also be found useful in getting the
cross-sections correct.
Now saw and file away the stern, D, and the bow, E, and chisel away the
sides and keel as described before. Fig. 398 shows the appearance of the
stern.
Having chiselled and filed the outside of the hull to correct shape and
exactly equal on both sides, gouge out the inside as described before.
Next make the deck from deal about 1/8 inch thick, cutting it the exact
size of the outline in Fig. 396. Before fastening the deck, bore a hole
at A for the rudder (a corresponding hole being bored in the hull), and
holes at B and C for masts (with corresponding holes, not more than
1/4 inch deep, in the hull). If need be (in large models) the under
part of the deck where holes come can be strengthened by pieces of wood
nailed across. With a hard pencil draw lines along the deck to give the
appearance of boards.
A hole for a hatch-way may be cut out with a fret-saw. The hatch-way
itself for a large boat can be made of pieces of wood nailed together.
Now fix the deck on to the top of the hull with small nails.
Another way of fixing the deck is to make it just large enough to fit
inside the hull, leaving an edge or bulwark all round, 1/4 inch to 1/2
inch in depth.
The longer mast goes into hole B. The total length of the schooner is
about 1-1/4 times the height of the mast above the deck. The shorter
mast goes into hole C and is very little longer than half the boat. The
masts must fit firmly into the holes in the deck and hull.
To ballast the boat, nail a piece of lead along the keel. If too large a
piece is used at first, it can easily be reduced.
The rudder F is cut out and fixed as already described.
H in Fig. 396 shows where the end of the bowsprit comes.
[Illustration: FIG. 398]
[Illustration: Fig. 399
A. Stay foresail. B. Gaff foresail. C. Mainsail.]
Fig. 399 shows a drawing of the masts and sails for a schooner. The
gaffs, _a b_ and _c d_, and the corresponding booms, are fastened to the
masts by wire loops. Lawn or Indian muslin make good sails. It is well
to wash the material before using it.
CHAPTER XV
THE FRET-SAW
The =Fret-saw= is a delightful tool, and very useful to the toy-maker.
It can be used for making wheels and the various jointed and mechanical
toys described in the following chapters.
In dealing with the fret-saw we have to consider (1) the saw-blades
and (2) the frame in which they are held. The saw-blades are about
five inches in length and are made of delicate steel wire with
correspondingly fine teeth. They are very cheap, being commonly sold
at about three halfpence to threepence a dozen, and even less when
purchased by the gross. They are supplied in ten different grades,
numbered from 00 to 8, proceeding from fine to coarse. For the toys
described in this book, Nos. 1, 2 and 3 will be found most suitable. To
preserve the saw-blades from rust, keep them in a wood or metal case.
Upon the proper tension of the saw-blade depends its action. To keep
it taut, a number of frames have been designed, the most practical
being one made of steel and varying in size from 12 inches to 18 inches
measuring from the saw-blade to the back of the frame. The handle is of
wood. The 12-inch size is the most suitable for children.
Cheap frames can be obtained for sixpence halfpenny (smaller ones even
for fourpence). In the cheaper kinds the necessary tension is obtained
by drawing the arms slightly towards each other when clamping the blade.
The spring of the steel will then keep the blade sufficiently taut. In
the better-class frames (price from two shillings upward) the tension is
secured by the action of a lever. Notice that the saws must be inserted
with the teeth pointing downward.
_Holding and managing the Saw-frame._ The hand saw-frame requires all
the steadiness possible; the bend of the frame should rest along the
forearm, and against the shoulder if the frame be a long one, or under
the shoulder if a short one. This prevents the frame from swinging round.
The saw-blade will describe the arc of a circle as it passes through the
wood, and this dip is reduced to the minimum by making _short strokes_
instead of long ones. This is important to remember. The amateur is sure
to break a few saw-blades at first, they are so fragile, indeed even in
the hands of an expert they have a precarious hold on life and can only
be expected to last a certain time. Fortunately they are cheap.
The saw-blade must not be pressed on into the wood too quickly; the wood
is held to the table with the fingers, and every part of the line to be
cut is moved in due succession against the cutting edge of the blade.
Excessive energy will often cause the blade to stick fast in the wood;
in this case the blade must be eased by gently working it up and down so
that it does not cut but frees itself. This method can be adopted when
turning a sharp corner; work the saw up and down (without cutting) until
the blade points in the right direction.
Very often the locking of the blade in the wood is due to gummy or heavy
wood, or to a twist in the saw-blade; this latter cause can be prevented
by the exercise of care in fixing the saw in the frame.
Children should have the cheaper frames to practise with; however they
soon learn to manage them and in due course find out that a saw-blade is
really not so delicate as it looks. In cutting out animals, etc., leave
a piece of surplus wood round the frailer parts as long as possible so
that one has something to hold without fear of breakage.
When an interior space has to be cut out (_e.g._ when cutting away
interior portions of wheels to make the spokes) a hole must be made by
means of the Archimedean drill to admit the saw; the upper end of the
saw is released from its clamp, passed through the hole, and again fixed
in position. The hole in all cases should be bored as near as possible
to a corner or point, as these are convenient starting-places. A
medium-sized drill point rather than fine points should be used wherever
space permits. Fine points are apt to break. The drill stock must be
held quite vertical and revolved both when the point is entering the
wood and when it is being withdrawn. No pressure is required on the
drill beyond its own weight.
In making the various jointed animals, etc., in the following chapters
bifurcated nickel rivets are used, small-gauge. The following are useful
sizes:--
Sizes No. 14 6/16, 8/16, 10/16. (These are useful for jointed animals.)
Sizes No. 11 12/16, 14/16, 16/16. (These are used for the crane, etc.)
These rivets can be bought in boxes of assorted sizes.
[Illustration: FIG. 400]
[Illustration: FIG. 401]
Figs. 400 and 401 show how a jointed animal is riveted together. When
hammering the rivet open, its head should be placed on a piece of metal
(the clamp will do). Fig. 401 shows the method of opening the rivet.
A represents the table, B the clamp, C the head of the rabbit and its
ears, D, the rivet.
CHAPTER XVI
LITTLE GYMNAST; DANCING CLOWN; ROCKING ANIMALS
=Little Gymnast.= First the little gymnast must be drawn and cut out. He
can be made of cardboard of medium thickness and paper-fasteners (Size
00) or better of three-ply wood and bifurcated nickel rivets (Size No.
14-8/16).
First draw the body, A, Fig. 402, 2-1/2 inches long. (The measurements
given are important, for unless the limbs are in proportion the figure
will not work properly.) Make two holes with the drill, if wood is being
used, as in Fig. 402.
[Illustration: FIG. 402]
The arms, B, are 2-1/4 inches long, the hands must be large enough to
contain holes to carry a wooden knitting needle (1/8 inch in diameter).
The upper part of leg, C, is 1-1/2 inches in length; the lower part, D,
1-1/2 inches. Make holes in these parts as in the figure. Take care that
the holes are large enough to hold the rivet or paper-fasteners loosely,
so that the limbs swing about easily.
Now fasten all these parts together. (For directions how to hammer the
rivets see the previous chapter.)
Paint the figure in water colours if it is made of cardboard, if it is
made of wood it may be left unpainted, or painted in oil colours.
[Illustration: FIG. 403]
[Illustration: FIG. 404]
[Illustration: FIG. 405]
[Illustration: FIG. 406]
[Illustration: FIG. 407]
Push a wooden knitting needle (about 1/8 inch in diameter) through the
holes in the hands, see that it fits tightly, add a little glue if there
is any danger of the needle slipping round inside the holes.
Two pieces of stripwood, E, are next sawn about 11" × 1/4" × 1/2". These
posts must have holes drilled in them near the top for the knitting
needle to pass through, and revolve freely. The posts are nailed and
glued to a base, the size of which will depend upon the length of the
bar which the gymnast turns upon.
Two or three gymnasts look well swinging together, or a gymnast, a
monkey and a clown. In this case 12" × 6" × 1/4" makes a good stand.
The posts are supported by triangular supports. On turning the knitting
needle the little figure will revolve in a life-like manner, and perform
many of the professional exercises of the horizontal bar. The actions
are made more realistic if the man's head is weighted with a piece of
lead, so as to make his head more nearly the same weight as his body.