As we were about to return to Paris, we met a friend of M. Gaston Ménier

on his way from the latter's country-house near Villa-Cotterets, where

the memorable _chasses à courre_ take place in the forest, which,

under normal conditions, abounds in deer and stags. The château had been

used as the headquarters of a brigade of Bavarian infantry. The house

was intact, but some valuable furniture of the Louis XV period and some

paintings had been destroyed, and the cellar, that had contained over

two thousand bottles of excellent wine, including forty dozen bottles of

champagne of the admirable vintage of 1904, had been "visited," and only

seven bottles remained. The Bavarians, in pursuance of their practice in

1870, carried away all the clocks in the château.

_Wednesday, September 16._

Forty-fifth day of the war. Sky heavily overcast. Southwesterly wind.

Thermometer at five P.M. 15 degrees centigrade.

After the victorious contest of the Marne, we are now to have the

gigantic struggle of the Aisne. The battle now engaged, because the

Franco-British pursuit has compelled the German armies all along the

line to reënforce their rear guards and fight, extends some one hundred

and fifty miles in length on one front from Noyon, the heights north of

Vic-sur-Aisne, Soissons, Rheims, to Ville-sur-Tourbe, west of the wooded

ridge of the Argonne. Another "front," where vigorous defence is made by

the German eastern armies, extends from the eastern border of the

Argonne to the Forges forest north of Verdun, some fifty miles long.

Now that the Germans are fighting on the defensive, it is not too soon

to record the fact that their extraordinary raid of a million of

soldiers through Belgium to within twenty miles of Paris has failed.

Nothing in military history approaches this avalanche of armies. The

German invasion of France and the threat to invest and capture Paris is

coming to an end. Yet this war can only be ended by an invasion either

of France or of Germany being driven to a triumphant conclusion. The

theater of war must soon be transferred from France to the east. The

curtain falls upon the German invasion of France, and for the present,

at least, Paris is no longer in danger. I see that a change has come

over the Parisians, and I can read in their calm, confident faces the

brighter phase that the war has assumed. Parisians of every class, from

the _grande dame_ of the Faubourg Saint-Germain to the _midinette_ of

the Rue de la Paix, or the professional beauty of Montmartre, are

subdued and chastened by the sudden change that overtook their bright

and exuberant existence. During this first period of the war, Paris

assumed the aspect of a Scottish Sabbath. Feverish pursuit of pleasure,

earnest hard work, luxury, elegant distinction, thrift, thronged

boulevards, crowded theaters, clamorous music halls, frisky supper

parties, tango teas, overflowing gaiety, sparkling wit, boisterous fun,

and sly humor, have all vanished. The machinery of Parisian life is

working at quarter speed. Streets are nearly deserted, except for

rapidly flitting automobiles, used mostly for military purposes. The Rue

de la Paix is a vacant pathway, where one might play lawn tennis all day

long. Probably three fourths of the Paris shops are still closed. The

underground trains are as yet few and far between. Now and then a

tramway rumbles along the streets, but there is not a solitary omnibus

running in the city. The popularity of the bicycle is regained, for

well-to-do folk whose motor-cars have been requisitioned now make use of

the humble wheel. The quaint, one-horse cab, evoking souvenirs of

Mürger, Paul de Kock, and Guy de Maupassant, with venerable _cocher_,

re-appears. There are some auto-taxicabs about, and their slowly

increasing number indicates that Paris is beginning to shake off the

paralysis imposed by the outbreak of the war. Undisturbed by the

turmoil, the forty "immortal" Academicians are continuing their labors

on the Dictionary of the Academy. They are approaching the end of the

letter "E" and are to-day discussing, with singular actuality, the word

"Exodus." May that mean the German exodus from French soil!

THE END

Paris War Days: Diary of an American · 第 10 / 10 段