The condition at the outbreak of the war of some of the French

fortresses in the north near the Belgian frontier, as well as around

Rheims and Vitry-le-François, for which the French Chamber of Deputies

refused in 1899 to vote appropriations, is being paid for a thousandfold

to-day. In 1885, when experiments made at Malmaison with the

newly-invented torpedo shells, then about to be adopted by the German

artillery, showed that no forts could resist them unless provided with

armor plates and with _béton_ protection for men and ammunition, a

new plan of defence was drawn up. As the cost of the new armor and

protection for the forts was very great, it was decided to

_déclasser_ a number of fortresses, among which were Lille, Douai,

Arras, Landrecies, Péronne, Vitry-le-François, and others. It had

already been foreseen that the main German attack would some day be made

through Luxemburg and Belgium. The fortresses of Maubeuge, Charlemont

(Givet), Montmédy, and Longwy then became of supreme importance, for the

defence of northern France against an invading army through Belgium. The

Chamber of Deputies persistently refused to vote the necessary money,

and the result of this want of foresight became painfully apparent

during the present war, when the Germans made their broad sweep from

Belgium to Compiègne, meeting on their way with no permanent works of

defence.

The civil and religious wedding of Mr. James Gordon Bennett, proprietor

of the _New York Herald_, with Baroness George de Reuter took place

to-day at the Town Hall of the ninth arrondissement of Paris, and at the

American Episcopal Church of the Holy Trinity, in the Avenue de l'Alma.

The witnesses of the bride were the Duc de Camastra and Vicomte de

Breteuil. Those for Mr. Bennett were the American Ambassador, Mr.

Herrick, and Professor Albert Robin, the well-known scientist and member

of the French Academy of Medicine. The bride was the widow of Baron

George de Reuter, and was formerly Miss Potter of Baltimore. The

ceremonies were very simple, the only guests being Mrs. Herrick and the

Vicomtesse de Breteuil. The ceremony in the church was performed by the

Reverend Doctor Watson. Those present afterwards took tea at the

residence of Mrs. Bennett in the Rue de Lubeck. The day before the

wedding Mr. Bennett had been confirmed by the Reverend Doctor Watson in

the faith of the American Episcopal Church. It will be remembered that

Mr. Bennett's father was a Scotch Roman Catholic, while his mother was

an Irish Protestant, a combination that seldom occurs, and which often

induced Mr. Bennett to playfully remark: "I take after both my father

and my mother, for when I find myself surrounded by genial conviviality,

I feel that I am an Irishman, but when amidst grave cares and weighty

business, I am a Scotchman."

_Friday, September 11._

Fortieth day of the war. Overcast sky from dawn to noon, then steady,

heavy rain all the afternoon. Southwest wind, blowing in gusts.

Thermometer at five P.M. 17 degrees centigrade.

The Germans continue to retire north of the Marne towards Soissons. The

British army has captured eleven guns, stores, ammunition, and fifteen

hundred prisoners. The German retreat measures seventy kilometers in

four days. All seems to go well with the allies. The heavy rain is bad

for the German retreat, especially in the swampy ground they must pass

through.

All this cheerful news from the front gives renewed confidence to the

two millions of Parisians remaining at home, who begin to feel that

there is no longer any imminent danger of being besieged.

What might be called a side-issue of the war appeared to-day in the

shape of a new English daily newspaper published in Paris, called the

_Paris Daily Post_. It consists of a small single sheet--the

_Figaro_, and the _Echo de Paris_, are the only papers now

printed on double sheets--and in an editorial note declares that its

policy is to "preach courage and confidence." It is an unpretentious,

lively, amusing little production and may eventually have a brilliant

career.

Many of the wounded now coming in to the hospitals are being treated for

rheumatism contracted in the trenches during days and nights of exposure

to the rain. A man of the East Lancashire Regiment, who had his left arm

smashed by a shell, said that when his detachment were attacked at dawn

in a village near Compiègne, "the terrified women and children rushed

into the streets in their night gowns. Their houses were being smashed

like pie-crust. It made us feel badly to see some of these poor women

and children blown to pieces by the German shells. We tried to put them

in whatever shelter was available."

Professor Pierre Delbet, of the Paris Faculty of Medicine, relates an

extraordinary conversation between a young general commanding a division

of the Prussian Guard Corps and Doctor Delbet's mother, who is a

venerable lady of seventy-seven. Professor Delbet went yesterday to

visit his mother at her country house situated in a village on the Grand

Morin River, in the heart of the region where the fighting took place a

few days ago. Madame Delbet's house is in the center of the village, and

on her grounds a small wooden bridge connects the courtyard and flower

garden with the vegetable garden on the other bank. There are two public

bridges at the ends of the village, but these had been blown up by the

French engineer soldiers. Last Friday morning the Germans arrived and

smashed open the double gate of Madame Delbet's house. A young general,

with an eyeglass fixed to his left eye, approached, while a soldier

stood with a loaded revolver pointed at the old lady's head. The general

remarked with politeness: "Madame, you will let us pass over your

private bridge."

"I have no means of preventing you, but I warn you the bridge is not

very solid."

"Ah! we will see to that."

The general gave orders, and in fifteen minutes the rickety bridge was

braced up with three strong trusses. Then thirty soldiers were put on

the bridge and jumped six times in unison at the word of command. After

this test, the passage of troops began, while the _pontoniers_ were

repairing the two public bridges. The general approached Madame Delbet

and with great courtesy placed two comfortable armchairs in a shady nook

of the courtyard, and by an invitation that seemed to be a command,

requested her to take a seat and see "the little Prussian review that

would surely be interesting." The old lady sat beside the general and

witnessed the _défilé_ that lasted seven hours--from 11.30 in the

morning to 6.30 in the evening. The general scrutinized his men through

his monocle. By and by he had his servant make some tea and toast, which

he offered to his "hostess." While sipping tea, the general said:

"Madame, when you become a German, as will surely be the case, you will

be proud to recollect that you witnessed the passage of my troops over

your bridge. I shall have a bronze tablet made and placed over your gate

to commemorate the event."

When Madame Delbet protested, the general burst into a hearty laugh, and

said: "Why, Madame, that is already settled. You cannot defend

yourselves. Oh, yes! you have in mind your friends the English and your

friends the Russians. But your good friends the English can only fight

on the sea; they are of no value on land. As for the Russians, they

don't know what an army is!"

At this moment the cavalry was passing over the bridge three abreast,

and a lancer accidentally knocked over a bison's head that was hung in

the court as a hunting trophy. The general severely reprimanded the

trooper for his carelessness, and ordered the cavalry to cross two

abreast. The conversation continued. Madame Delbet said that she thought

the Russians had made considerable progress since the Japanese war. "Ah,

yes, perhaps, but they have no real army _yet!_"

The general then remarked: "Now about the French. You, yourself, Madame,

must be aware, as you belong to a medical family, that the French are

absolutely degenerate. The French have come to the end of their tether!

I will let you into one of our secrets. This will be our

_ultimatum_, of which I have already read the text. Voilà! We have

decided to preserve a selection of the best and healthiest Frenchmen and

marry them to well-chosen North German girls of strong shape and build.

The result of this cross may be useful children. As to the other

Frenchmen who survive the war, we have arranged to export them all to

North and South America!"

"But, General," replied Madame Delbet, "we have had at least _some_

success during the war."

"None whatever, Madame!"

"Why! We have captured some flags, anyway!"

"Where did you see that?"

"In the newspapers."

"The French, English, and American newspapers publish nothing but lies.

In two days we shall be in Paris."

The general then gave a fresh turn to his eyeglass and called Madame

Delbet's attention to the splendid physique, smart appearance, perfect

order, method, and discipline of his troops. Madame Delbet admitted that

this praise was fully justified, for the troops and horses were quite

fresh, their uniforms and equipments were all spick and span, and the

officers even wore fresh, unspotted gloves.

On Sunday the general took his departure. As he came to bid Madame

Delbet good-by, he said: "I am going to Paris, Madame, and if I can be

of any service to you there, kindly let me know." He then mounted his

beautiful bay charger and rode away, followed by his staff. A couple of

officers and a small detachment were left in the village.

Monday morning a German automobile dashed through the village at fourth

speed. A sentry discharged his rifle as a signal. The same troops came

trotting back again over the three bridges. One of them, who had been

particularly attentive to Madame Delbet's maid, passed through the

little courtyard. The maid slyly asked: "Is that the road to Paris?" She

received the reply from her admirer: _"Plus Paris! Plus Paris!"_

Soon afterwards, some French dragoons galloped into the village over the

bridges that the Germans had had no time to destroy. Then came two

battalions of British infantry, at a double, over Madame Delbet's little

garden bridge, and they deployed and opened fire on the retreating

Germans. _"A Paris!"_ and _"Plus Paris!"_ are words that

Madame Delbet says will always ring in her ears, for these phrases

exactly describe the picturesque side glimpse of the war that passed in

her pretty little courtyard, lined with rose-bushes, near her rustic

wooden bridge. Professor Pierre Delbet vouches for the implicit accuracy

of this characteristic conversation between his mother and the young

lieutenant-general of the Prussian Guard Corps.

_Saturday, September 12._

Forty-first day of the war. Rain and drizzle with southwesterly wind.

Thermometer at five P.M. 15 degrees centigrade.

Good news. Six days' steady, hard fighting results in a French victory

all along the line of the Marne. The German retreat is general. It is

astonishing to see how quietly and calmly Parisians receive the welcome

news. They are naturally delighted, but there are no wild outbursts of

enthusiasm. They fully realize that this is merely one of the phases of

the long, hard struggle.

Both General-in-Chief Joffre, and the German General Staff, foresaw that

the great battle of the Marne must be decisive. General Joffre, in his

order of the day of September 6, impressed upon his troops that "upon

the coming battle the salvation of the country would depend," and

admonished his soldiers that "if they should be unable to advance

further, they must hold their ground or be killed on the spot, rather

than retire." When the French cavalry made a sudden dash into

Vitry-le-François and entered the house that had been occupied by the

headquarters staff of the Eighth Army Corps, which had been hastily

abandoned a few minutes before, they found, signed by Lieutenant-general

Tulff von Tscheppe und Werdenbach, a general order which ran as follows:

Vitry-le-François, September 7, 10.30 A.M.--The goal pursued by our long

and painful marches is reached. The principal French forces have had to

accept battle after withdrawing continually. The great decision is

undoubtedly near at hand. To-morrow, therefore, the total forces of the

German army, as well as all those of our army corps, will have to be

engaged all along the line going from Paris to Verdun. To save the

happiness and honor of Germany, I expect from each officer and soldier,

despite the hard and heroic fighting of the last few days, that he will

accomplish his duty entirely and to his last breath. All depends upon

the result of to-morrow's battle.

_Sunday, September 13._

Forty-second day of the war. Cloudy weather, with strong westerly wind.

Temperature at five P.M. 19 degrees centigrade.

I took one of the four daily trains for Havre, leaving the Gare

Saint-Lazare, for my little country place in Vernon at 9.33 this morning

and met in the same compartment Captain Decker, commander of the U.S.S.

_Tennessee_, and two officers of his ship, which acts as a sort of

ferry-boat for Americans stranded in France, carrying them to England.

The _Tennessee_ will sail from Havre to-morrow for Falmouth. The

United States naval officers were in uniform and were constantly

mistaken for British army officers. The military commanders at the

stations came on board the train to ask if they could be of any service

to them, and they were saluted with enthusiasm whenever they showed

themselves. The train, conforming to the war regulations on all the

railroads, went at the uniform prescribed pace of thirty miles an hour

and stopped at every station, consequently we were four hours, instead

of the usual one hour and ten minutes in getting to Vernon, which is

only fifty miles from Paris. At Achères, the junction with the northern

lines, two carloads of wounded were hitched to our train. I found

barricades on the outskirts of Vernon and the beautiful bridge, that had

been blown up by the French in 1870 in a vain attempt to prevent the

German occupation, was mined, so that it could be instantly destroyed. I

found my little garden rather neglected, for the man who looks after it

had been "mobilized" and is now lying in a hospital at Bordeaux, getting

over a shrapnel wound in the leg. The place nevertheless was full of

pears, peaches, figs, green corn, American squashes, beans, tomatoes,

and no end of roses, gladioli, tobacco plant, hollyhocks, heliotrope,

dahlias, morning-glories, verbena, and sunflowers.

[Photograph: Photo H. C. Ellis, Paris. "Sauf-Conduit" issued by the

Prefecture of Police to persons wishing to travel.]

I visited the Red Cross Hospital which, under the direction of Madame

Steiner, wife of the mayor of Vernon, is doing splendid work at

Vernonnet. There were two hundred wounded officers and soldiers here;

among them were a dozen Belgians and a score of "Turcos," Algerian

riflemen, who seemed very patient and docile. Some twenty wounded

Germans here receive exactly the same treatment as the French. The

German soldiers were from Prussian-Polish and Saxon regiments. The

officers, five altogether, in a separate ward, were extremely reticent,

and it was only with great difficulty that they could be induced to give

their names and the numbers of their regiments. Happening to speak

German, I acted as interpreter during the inspection by the French

Medical Director. These young officers seemed greatly depressed and

mortified at finding themselves prisoners.

While strolling about Vernon, I met Frederick MacMonnies, the American

sculptor, and his wife, riding on bicycles. They had come from Giverny,

some three miles away, where MacMonnies has his studio, not far from

that of Claude Monet. MacMonnies told me that his studio was now a

hospital with fifty beds, all of which were occupied by French and

Belgians. Mrs. MacMonnies aids the surgeons in tending the wounded.

During the approach of the Germans towards Beauvais, it was thought that

Uhlans would soon appear at Vernon, and orders had been given to

evacuate the hospitals. MacMonnies buried his valuable tapestries and

rare works of French and Italian Renaissance art and prepared for the

worst. Fortunately Vernon, Giverny, Paris, and its delightful

neighborhood seems no longer to be in danger from invaders, and the

people are recovering their peace of mind.

_Monday, September 14._

Forty-third day of the war. Dull morning with slight showers. Sky

overcast all the afternoon. Southwesterly wind blowing strong.

Thermometer at five P.M. 16 degrees centigrade.

Back in Paris again, after a five hours' ride in a second-class

compartment intended for ten, packed with twelve. Most of my

fellow-passengers were refugees returning to Creil, Beaumont-sur-Oise,

and other places north of Paris, now evacuated by the Germans.

Within living memory Paris has rarely seen so dense and vast a throng as

that which assembled on Sunday in the Cathedral of Notre Dame for the

special service of "intercession for the success of French arms," when

Monseigneur Amette, Cardinal of Paris, preached a stirring sermon,

exhorting people to "make extreme sacrifice for their native land."

There must have been eight thousand persons in the cathedral. Not only

were the five naves densely packed, but all the chapels along the side

aisles were crowded with worshippers. An imposing procession was formed,

including many religious bodies, associations of young girls, and all

the Roman Catholic clergy of Paris. This cortège left the cathedral

through the three gates of the great façade and took up its position

between the basilica and the exterior railings. Here a temporary

platform had been erected, from which Monseigneur Amette addressed the

enormous crowd that filled the Rue d'Argonne, the Pont Notre Dame, and

the Place Notre Dame, right up to the Prefecture of Police. After the

Cardinal had pronounced the benediction, the crowd joined with

impressive solemnity in the invocation of Sainte-Geneviève, Saint-Denis,

Joan of Arc, and other saints on behalf of the French armies, and

afterwards dispersed quietly and reverently.

_Tuesday, September 15._

Forty-fourth day of the war. Gray, cloudy day, with occasional glimpses

of sunshine. Brisk southwest wind. Temperature at five P.M. 15 degrees

centigrade.

The Franco-British armies are close on the Germans' heels, but as

everybody in Paris expected, the enemy is inclined to resist along their

new lines. They are throwing up defences on the northwest, from the

forest of l'Aigle to Craonne, and in the center from north of Rheims and

the Camp of Chalons to Vienne-la-Ville on the west fringe of the

Argonne.

The outlook seems so encouraging to the _Herald_ that it has

returned to ante-bellum conditions and reduced its price to fifteen

centimes in France, and twenty-five centimes abroad, and usually appears

in double sheet form.

Another American wedding to-day at the Town Hall of the sixth

arrondissement. The bridegroom was Mr. John R. Clarke of New York, and

the bride was Miss Marion Virginia Goode, also an American. Mr. Clarke

went to the front immediately after the wedding, having volunteered in

the British army for automobile service. He was arrayed in the

regulation khaki uniform, and as he drove to the Mairie in his car just

brought back from the Aisne with a number of bullet-holes in it, he was

greeted with cheers. The bridal party was accompanied by Mr. Charles G.

Loeb, of the American law firm of Valois, Loeb and Company.

The American Ambulance Hospital at Neuilly is doing really effective

work. Among the wounded being treated there are French, Belgians, a few

"Turcos," British officers and men, and some wounded German prisoners.

Mrs. William K. Vanderbilt, who has been entrusted by the French Red

Cross Association with the charge of the hospital, is indefatigable in

her personal attention and efforts. The organization seems perfect. The

funds so far subscribed exceed five hundred and seventy-four thousand

francs. During a brief visit to the hospital, I noticed that Mrs.

Vanderbilt herself visited the wounded, and with the aid of her

experienced staff of trained nurses, prepared them for surgical

operations. Mrs. Vanderbilt wore the white Red Cross uniform. Half

concealed about her neck was a double string of pearls. Rose-colored

silk stockings were tipped with neat but serviceable white shoes, and in

this attire she seemed to impersonate the presiding "good angel" of the

hospital.

[Illustration: Photo. H.C. Ellis, Paris. One of the wards in the

American Ambulance Hospital at Neuilly.]

Through the courtesy of a friend who was going to Meaux in charge of a

Red Cross automobile to distribute hospital stores to a field hospital

near Plessis-Pacy, I had an opportunity to visit the scene of the recent

battles along the Ourcq Canal, where General von Kluck's army met its

first signal defeat. We came near to the villages of Chambry, Marcilly,

Etrepilly, and Vincy--along the road from Meaux to Soissons--and found

that the trenches dug by the Germans were filled with human corpses in

thick, serried masses. Quicklime and straw had been thrown over them by

the ton. Piles of bodies of men and of horses had been partially

cremated in the most rudimentary fashion. The country seemed to be one

endless charnel-house. The stench of the dead was appalling. Of the

fifty odd houses that form the village of Etrepilly, not one remained

intact. Some of them had been hit by a shell that penetrated through the

roof, falling into the cellar, and by its explosion bringing down from

garret or second story all the furniture in one confused mass of ruin.

But many other houses had been simply sacked and looted. Cupboards,

chests of drawers, and wardrobes were smashed open, and their contents

scattered pell-mell in the streets, courtyards, and fields. Here was the

portrait of an ancestor ripped to shreds by a bayonet; there was a

child's cradle. An old-fashioned grandmother's armchair, with its

cushions and ear-laps, lay smashed in fragments in the gutter. The

village had fortunately been deserted by its inhabitants at the approach

of the Germans, who, furious with rage, had looted, sacked, or wantonly

destroyed whatever they found.

How thirsty the Germans were! The roads and fields and trenches were

strewn with bottles, full or half-empty. The Germans must have been

obliged to retreat suddenly, for heaps of unexploded shells for the

three-inch and five-inch German field-guns were abandoned, and in wicker

baskets were loads of three-inch unexploded shells, apparently about to

be served to the gunners. Wanton, ruthless devastation everywhere! In a

field was a wrecked aeroplane, a white and yellow _taube_, with its

right wing reaching into the air, looking like some gigantic, wounded

bird. Towards sunset, an automobile passed along the road through this

terrible desolate valley of death. In it sat Monseigneur Marbeau, the

venerable Bishop of Meaux--the successor of Bossuet, the famous "Eagle

of Meaux"--who now and then raised his right finger aloft and then

lowered it with the sign of the cross, as he pronounced benedictions on

this vast charnel-house. A great number of German killed and wounded

wearing uniforms of the Eleventh Prussian Infantry Regiment indicated

that this corps had occupied the village of Etrepilly. As there were no

civilian villagers noticed in this part of the country, this seems

presumptive evidence that the Eleventh Prussian Infantry participated in

this looting and wanton devastation.

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