CHAPTER XVIII.

Project of a Railway to Calcutta--Calcutta, a Six Months' Trip from

England--The Strand Road--The Mint--Professor Weidemann--The Strand

Mills--The General Post Office--Custom House--Auditor General's

Office--Military Board--The Commissariat--The Ice House--Metcalfe

Hall--The Public Library--Bank of Bengal--The Oriental Bank--Indian

Failures--Chandpaul Ghât--Baboo Ghât--Docks of Howrah--Prinsep's

Ghât--Kidderpore Ghât--Fort William--Mir Jaffier--Arsenal--Chowringhee

Road--Ochterlony Monument--Government House--Entertainments

at Government House--Policy of Marquis Wellesley--Hotels

at Calcutta--Theatricals--The Town Hall--Concerts--Fancy

Fairs--The Mayor's Court--Newspapers--Merchants--Agency

Business--Railways--Asiatic Society--Martinière Charity--College

of Fort William--Haileybury College--Military Seminary at

Addiscombe--Colleges--Schools--Mesmeric Hospital--Chloroform--Sailors'

Home--Alms Houses--Masonic Lodges--Botanical Garden--Charter of

1834--Lunatic Asylums--Law Courts--Police Office--Provident Funds.

THE stupendous project of bringing Calcutta within seven or eight

days of London, by means of the Euphrates valley railway route, will

probably not take place in our days; but, incredible as it may seem,

we yet hope we may look forward to its being carried out in those

of our children. Some persons may possibly smile, and say, "It is

the scheme of a visionary;" but who, let me ask, in the days of Job

Charnock,--only 120 years ago, when he founded Calcutta--would have

dreamt that that wretched, swampy village would have been converted

into a city of palaces, and still less, that instead of a tedious

sea-voyage of six or seven months from the mother country, it would be

brought within the brief limits of forty-five or fifty days! Again let

me ask, who only a few years ago would have conceived the possibility

of a mode of communication whereby intelligence may be transmitted,

not only by land but by sea, with the rapidity of lightning. Nay, that

4,000 miles of electric wire have already reached Calcutta, soon to

connect every large town in India with the port of Bombay; while at the

same time the submarine telegraph is in progress from Suez to Trieste,

and before the expiration of 1855, will enable us to hear from our

friends in any part of India in eleven or twelve days.

Calcutta is so well worth a visit, that notwithstanding the numerous

and able descriptions which have been given of it by various writers,

I would strongly advise all who have it in their power, to become

personally acquainted with it. This can now be done in so brief a space

of time, and with so much ease and comfort, that many persons will be

glad to avail themselves of the opportunities now offered, and desire

to know the readiest way to accomplish this object. I shall therefore

note down a few data, as to the best mode of spending a pleasant and

profitable six months in visiting the chief cities of India.

Persons who do not like the long sea-voyage of ninety or a hundred

days, round by the Cape of Good Hope, in the ordinary sailing vessels,

may reach Calcutta from England by the overland route in fifty days or

under; and in two months may see the great city, as well as a part of

the interior. Thus, suppose the traveller arrives at Calcutta on the

6th of November, he may leave it again by the steamer on the 8th of

February. Let him leave London on the 20th of September of any year,

and he may reach it again on the 25th of March following. Say that he

arrives at Calcutta on the 6th of November, in fourteen days he can see

all that is worth visiting in Calcutta, and as a river steamer leaves

about the 20th of every month, he may go up the country on that day,

and in twenty days more he will reach Allahabad, which will be the 10th

of December. If he prefer it, he may travel Dâk to Bombay. Arriving

at the Western Presidency about the middle of January, he may take

another steamer and visit part of Scinde. Again, suppose a traveller

proceeds north-west, let him leave Allahabad on the 15th or 16th of

November for Lucknow, Agra, and Delhi, and even for Simla.

My calculation would be about as follows:--

To Lucknow (Dâk), 128 miles, requiring 3 days.

" stay at 2 "

" Agra 200 miles, requiring 4 "

" stay at 4 "

" Delhi 112 miles, requiring 2 "

" stay at 6 "

" Kurnaul 78 miles, requiring 1 "

" stay at 1 "

" Umballa 50 miles, requiring 1 "

" Foot of hills 1 "

" Subathoo 1 "

" stay at 1 "

" Simla 23 miles, requiring 1 "

" stay at 3 "

" Kotgurh on the Sutlej 5 "

" stay at 2 "

Back to foot of hills 7 "

To Ferozepore 2 "

" Lahore 1 "

" stay at 3 "

" Ferozepore 1 "

" Kurnaul 3 "

" Meerut 1 "

" Cawnpore 4 "

" Allahabad 2 "

" Calcutta by steam 11 "

--

January 28th. 73 "

Thus the traveller may return on the 8th of February, and reach

London on the 25th of March; a trip of six months. The longer journey

would cost him about £500, and the shorter one from £280 to £300. In

this manner he would see two Presidencies, and the best part of the

North-Western Provinces, including Lahore.

Calcutta lies on the left or east bank of the Hoogly, or as the natives

call it, Bhauguretty, or the "True Ganges," as being the chief of the

ten branches which empty themselves into the sea, through their several

estuaries in the Sunderbunds. It is distant about 100 miles from the

Indian Ocean, in Long. 84° 22´ E., Lat. 22° 23´ N.

A magnificent line of buildings extends for six miles along the bank

of the river, from Fort William on the south point, to Chitpore at the

northern extremity. The princely residence of the Governor-General

stands in the verdant square of the Esplanade, and is flanked on either

side by the Chowringhee road, which is two miles in length.

The city is divided into two districts, the north-eastern part being

inhabited by the Europeans, and the eastern by the natives. The

streets are, for the most part, narrow, and the houses lofty; the lower

part is appropriated to the bazaars, and the upper to the dwellings.

I propose describing Calcutta as viewed from the river. Beginning

from the right, the spectator will run a line down all the way to

the left of what is called the "Strand Road," or "Course," though

Calcutta extends beyond the Strand Road. On the extreme right of this

line is the Mint, which was planned and erected by Lieutenant-Colonel

W.N. Forbes, Bengal Engineers, the present Mint-master. It is a very

handsome building, one story high, supported on pillars, and was

completed in the year 1830. The Mint is divided into five offices,

viz., the Bullion, English, Mechanical, Assay, and Mint Committees,

each of which departments gives employment to many persons. Deducting

Sundays and holidays, 95 days, there will remain 270 working days.

The standard of the Bengal money is silver. Gold is sometimes coined,

but the most considerable part of the currency is silver. The silver

is first melted, and then run through a mould and made into long bars;

next it is passed under rollers, and flattened, until it is of the

thickness of the coin required, say a rupee; it is then cut into round

pieces of the size of a rupee, and afterwards stamped and milled by one

and the same machine. All these processes are effected by the steam

engine. Next comes the weighing of the rupees, when if any be found

light, they are re-melted and re-formed into bars.

Old rupees defaced, or those of native coinage, are sent down by

the steamers from the Upper Provinces to Calcutta, to be re-coined.

Accounts are carried on with their sub-divisions in rupees, annas,

and pies; twelve pies make one anna, and sixteen annas make one

rupee. The silver coins made at the Mint are rupees, half-rupees, and

quarter-rupees, the copper are pice, double pice, and pies.

In the beginning of 1848, Lieutenant-Colonel Forbes, at the request

of Her Majesty's Government, was ordered by the Court of Directors to

proceed to England, and form part of a Royal Commission to inquire

into the working of the London Mint. The Colonel was allowed to draw

his Indian salary during his absence, and the expenses of his passage,

home and back, were defrayed by Her Majesty's Government. The late

Right Honourable R.L. Sheil, the Master of the Mint, on behalf of the

Government, paid his acknowledgments for the valuable assistance which

the Colonel had rendered, previous to his return to India, in June,

1849.

The Calcutta Mint is said to be more extensive than the Royal Mint.

Madras has a mint, and so has Bombay; the former, however, does not

appear to be much needed, as the circulation does not extend very far,

and Calcutta could supply the demand.

On the occasion of my visit to the Mint, on the 27th of June, 1846, I

was accompanied by my friend, the late Professor Weidemann, and his

accomplished lady; and had the benefit of being conducted by some of

the _employés_, who were desired to explain such parts as were new to

me. In the smelting-room, the crucible is capable of containing at one

time, silver enough to make 13,000 rupees; and when necessary, 250,000

can be coined in one day. Between 300 and 400 natives, and about

twenty-five Europeans are attached to this scientific building, the

machinery and fittings-up of which are admirable, more so, I am told,

than the Mint in the Metropolis of Great Britain.

On the left of the Mint, is a large five-storied building, called the

Strand Mills, belonging to Muttyloll Seal, a rich native. Here any

person may have his wheat, or other corn, converted into flour on

moderate terms. These mills are worked by steam. The Cossipore mills,

situated near the foundry, of which I have made some mention, are

similar to these.

To the left of the Strand Mills is another large building, called the

Bonded Warehouse. The association was incorporated by act, of March,

1837, and consists of six Directors and a Secretary. The warehouse

occupies a large oblong, the smallest front being towards the river.

Some merchants at the time objected to the scheme, because having

warehouses ("godowns," from the Malay word "gadong") of their own,

which were usually rented on lease, they would suffer a pecuniary loss

by joining the association until their leases had expired. Moreover it

was an advantage to them to have their godowns near their offices.

Next to the Bonded Warehouse, stands the Marine Board Office. The

river, or west front, is not very conspicuous, but it runs far back

eastward. The marine superintendent is a Captain in the Indian navy.

The other departments under its roof, are the master-attendant's and

pilots' courts. The members of the latter court are merchants and

branch pilots, usually two of each, who discuss such matters as the

loss of a ship, the stranding of a vessel, etc.

The General Post Office is the next building. The post is a very

important office all over India, particularly during a war, for it is

then that every one looks to the arrival of news, and the post-office

is literally besieged. Though India does not yet boast of railways,

still the post usually travels between five and six miles an hour. An

"express" to Bombay has been sent in the dry season from Calcutta in

seven days, a distance of 1,300 miles. Besides the Postmaster-General,

and Deputy Postmaster-General, there are twenty-seven European clerks,

and a very great number of native writers.

The office of the Board of Customs, salt and opium, is of great

moment, for as it includes the Abkarry or spirit department, it has

the control over a revenue yielding five or six crores (£5,000,000 or

£6,000,000) yearly. The Board consists of three members, a secretary,

deputy-secretary, thirty-four European clerks, and a large number of

natives. The Custom-house, though not on a line with the last-named

building, may as well be introduced here. The establishment consists

of a collector, deputy-collector, and 136 European clerks, etc.,

independent of a vast multitude of native writers. No ships can

leave Calcutta to go to sea, without first procuring a Custom-house

clearance; nor can a vessel discharge her cargo without the

custom-house "permit." The importance of this establishment is obvious

in a city like Calcutta, not only as regards the merchants, European

and native, but thousands of private individuals; for a person cannot

even ship or unship a parcel, by the monthly steamer, without a pass

from the Custom-house, as I can very well testify.

To the right of the Marine Board is situated the Military

Auditor-General's office, though not seen from the river front. When

it is stated that the pay of the Army, Ordnance, Commissariat, and

Pensioners is audited and checked here to an annual amount of several

crores,[105] or millions of money, the importance of this office will

be understood; and such is the opinion of the Court of Directors, for

the appointment of Military Auditor-General must be confirmed by them.

There is a Military Auditor-General, Deputy Military Auditor-General,

and first and second Assistants holding commissions in the Company's

army, besides twenty-six uncovenanted clerks, and a great many native

writers.

With regard to an officer's pay and allowances, if he be retrenched,

it is thus effected. The Paymaster of his regiment or Circle receives

the retrenchment from the Military Auditor-General's Office, signed

by the chief or his deputy. If the officer thinks his charge is not

according to the regulations, he writes down his reasons on the back

of the paper--if the objection be lengthy, the officer appends a sheet

of paper--and sends it back through the Paymaster to the Military

Auditor-General's office: who, should he agree, will write in red

ink "Passed." If the drawer still demurs, he requests that it may

be laid before the Governor-General in council, when the Military

Auditor-General is usually called upon to explain. An appeal lies

to the Court of Directors; but this is a step which is very rarely

resorted to.

The Military Board is near the river side. It is composed of a

paid Member, the Commandant of Artillery (ex-officio), the Chief

Engineer (ex-officio), and the Commissary-General (ex-officio). There

is a secretary and two assistant secretaries, besides forty-three

clerks and several native writers, who are employed in the six

departments--General and Miscellaneous; Public Works, Roads and

Canals; Draftsmen's; Ordnance; Commissariat; and Stud. The arms and

accoutrements of a corps which are indented for by the commanding

officer, are checked by this board. All Ordnance stores for practice,

or service ammunition of the Artillery, or for corps; all estimates and

charges for fortifications or military buildings, for civil buildings,

roads and canals; in fact every item entering into the operations of

war, or required in time of peace, is indented for and checked at this

office. Indents are annually forwarded to the Court of Directors so as

to keep the arsenals and magazines filled. Sometimes the Court clip the

indents. During the Affghan war the Board sent up twelve 9-pounders

instead of six 18-pounders, because it is said 9 × 12 = 108 and 18 × 6

= 108, being the ratio as to calibre, however 18-pounders will breach

when 9-pounders will not. The paid member is an exception to Virgil's

adage: _non omnia possumus omnes_.

The new plan which has lately been very judiciously introduced into her

Majesty's army, for the education of the officers, which requires them

to have some knowledge of mathematics and "that symbolical language, by

which alone the laws can be fully decyphered by which God has thought

good to govern the universe,"[106] leads me to remark how necessary

and important it is that the officers should possess some amount of

scientific learning. Thus, the member of this Military board, for

instance, has an estimate sent him for erecting a building. The amount

of pressure on the foundation, its superficial extent, etc., call for a

considerable amount of scientific knowledge.

The Commissariat Department embraces the supplies for armies in

the field; for instance, to find 25,000 or 30,000 camels for a

campaign, etc. It is said that when the Commander-in-Chief took

the field, in October, 1848, the government, not having previously

given sufficiently early notice to the Commissariat, were obliged

to buy grain at war prices, showing the penny-wise and pound-foolish

system of a government, which spent £12,000,000 in the Burmese war,

and £7,000,000 in the Affghan war. On the 1st of May, 1838, the

Commissariat expenses for the year were, 3,800,000 rupees, or £380,000;

before this, they had been £440,000.

The Company's Dispensary is not far from Government House. The reader

may form some idea of the quantities of medicine consumed, when he

is informed that £50,000 worth is annually sent out to Calcutta from

England. The depôts up the country are supplied from this dispensary.

Near to the dispensary is the Ice-house. Ice was first introduced

into Calcutta by a Mr. Tudor, of America, a person of enterprising

spirit. Previous to this experiment, the good people of this luxurious

city, used to cool their wines, beer, water, etc., by the application

of saltpetre, but which practice is now discontinued. There was a

person called an _abdar_, whose sole business it was to cool such

drink as was required, and who conducted the process in a room built

for the purpose; a bottle of wine could be cooled in ten or twelve

minutes; but the consumption of saltpetre was great and expensive; the

best white, costing three and a half, to four rupees for eighty-two

pounds. Most persons still keep an _abdar_, who now cools the wine

with ice. At its first introduction into India, ice was sold at four

annas (sixpence) for a seer (two pounds), but now it is to be had for

threepence.

Most of the steamers plying between Calcutta and Suez, take in a supply

of ice for the outward and return passengers. At Madras--called the

Benighted City--the benefit of Mr. Tudor's exertions have also been

felt, for it, too, has now an ice-house. This invaluable article may

likewise be procured at Bombay.

The Public Library, or Metcalfe Hall, is in a line beyond the

ice-house, and separated from it by a street. It is a very handsome

building, and has received its name in honour of the late able and

talented Lord Metcalfe. The foundation-stone was laid by Brother J.

Grant, the Provincial Grand Master of Bengal, assisted by Brother

James Burnes, K.H., Provincial Grand Master of Western India, those

masons holding office, and by a convocation of the craft, with masonic

honours, on the 19th of December, 1840, in presence of the late Earl

of Auckland, G.C.B., Governor-General of India, and a large assemblage

of visitors.

The late Lord Metcalfe (then Sir Charles) had, as acting

Governor-General, given liberty to the press of India, on the 15th

of September, 1835; and there is a metal plate in the Hall, with an

inscription to this effect. The funds for the erection of the building

were raised chiefly by public subscription, and the valuable piece of

ground on which it stands, was the munificent grant of Lord Auckland,

as Governor of Bengal. The building was designed by the late Mr.

C.K. Robinson, a magistrate of Calcutta, and a gentleman of great

architectural taste and judgment. It was built by Messrs. Burn and Co.,

and cost about 68,000 Company's rupees, of which sum 16,390 rupees were

contributed for the Library, and the balance by the Agricultural and

Horticultural Society, and other bodies, who had originally intended

to do honour to Sir Charles for the emancipation of the press, and for

his public and private virtues. Owing to the alterations, the expenses

exceeded the estimate, upon which Sir E. Ryan, the Chief Justice of the

Supreme Court of Calcutta, liberally gave upwards of £400 sterling

towards paying the balance.

The Public Library owes its origin to Mr. J.H. Stocqueler, at one time

editor of the "Englishman" newspaper, who, in August, 1835, circulated

an address among the principal inhabitants of Calcutta, urging the

necessity of this establishment. The nucleus of the Library was formed

by donations from private individuals, and by the transfer, from the

library of the College of Fort William, of a valuable collection

of books, consisting of 4,675 volumes. This transfer was made by

the Governor-General, Lord Metcalfe (then Sir Charles), on certain

conditions, one of which was, that an establishment should be provided

for the reception and care of the books, subject to the approbation of

the Honourable Court of Directors, who sanctioned the measure in their

letter of the 14th of August, 1839.

It appears, that in 1846 there were 6,821 sets of works, and 15,408

volumes, of which 423 volumes were on East India affairs, and 362

Oriental and Hebrew. There are works in Greek, Latin, French, German,

Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese. In fact there are books upon the

arts and sciences, and upon almost every subject, in all languages.

There are more than ninety proprietors. The subscribers are divided

into three classes, enjoying different privileges, as to the number of

books to be taken away at any one time. There are three curators, a

librarian, two sub-librarians, and an establishment of about ten native

servants.

The Agricultural and Horticultural Society here hold their meetings.

The building is a great ornament to the city, and is very conspicuous,

both in coming up and going down the river. The reading-room is most

convenient; newspapers and periodicals are, of course, always found on

the table. There are fresh arrivals of books by every steamer; and of

some works, more than one copy. The public who are non-subscribers,

are permitted to go there and read; but unfortunately books are

occasionally lost.

The Bank of Bengal is the next building in order. It has a capital of

£1,000,000 sterling; and the Government has many shares in the Bank.

At the time of its formation, there was no Bank; the houses of

agents and merchants being _quasi_ bankers: _i.e._, persons for the

convenience of procuring money when wanted, lodged with their agents,

sums varying from £300 or £400, to the amount of even £10,000. The

insolvency of the great house of Messrs. Palmer and Co., in January,

1830, the first of a series of failures of the leading houses, to the

extent of many millions sterling, induced many persons to seek for a

more sure plan of deposit.

In the Bank of Bengal, persons can have shares, and obtain a fair

annual per centage; or they may have money in deposit for a year, or

even a less period; or, if they like, they may have it in deposit with

interest. No account is opened for a less sum than 500 rupees; nor are

ordinary depositors allowed to draw out less sums than fifty rupees

at a time. There are three directors, who are civil servants of the

Government.

On the failure of the Agency houses, it was thought necessary to

establish another Bank, called the "Union Bank." This establishment was

not conducted on banking principles. Loans were made to carry on indigo

factories. To recover these advances, the factories became mortgaged.

Still the persons who had them, thought that it was necessary to work

these factories, instead of adopting the wise course of a favourable

sale. The directors also made advances to the Agency houses, which

led to the negotiation of bank post-bills, at ten months' sight.

The ruin of the Bank became inevitable, if both the factories were

unprofitable, and the houses failed. The upshot was that indigo fell

to low prices, and as a consequence, the houses found their sales of

produce decline below par. The failure took place in the year 1848, and

all the Indian world, and the merchants in Great Britain, well know

the result. The insolvency of this Bank pulled down, in the crash, all

the shareholders, and ruined many widows and orphans, who were living

on the interest of their money, which was lodged there, and which was

their only income and source of maintenance.

There was another ruinous system, which had lasted for several years.

It was thought desirable to give the usual dividends, and having no

profits, they actually took from their capital to pay these dividends.

A case of this description was brought before the Privy Council, in

July, 1849, when Lords Brougham and Campbell declared the practice to

be illegal.

Of late years, several branch Banks have been formed, namely, the

Agra and United Service, having a capital of 63,64,500 rupees; the

North-Western Bank of India, the Delhi, and the Simla, having a capital

of 22,05,600 rupees.

The Oriental Bank Corporation has a capital of £2,000,000 sterling:

it was incorporated by Royal Charter in 1851. This bank does an

immense deal of business, and is more liberal in its transactions than

any other bank in India. It has its head office at Bombay. Now the

capital of the Bengal Bank is, as I have already remarked, £1,000,000;

and it has a charter, so that in case of failure, no one is liable

to any loss, beyond the amount of his share. The Union Bank had no

charter. The failure of the Union has caused the shareholders not to

pay (besides the loss of their capital) _pro rata_; but a list of the

wealthiest shareholders having been made out, one person was assessed

£20,000, another £10,000, another £5,000, and others £1,000, and so on,

even though the unlucky wight had only one unfortunate share. Thus,

under these circumstances, the Bishop of Calcutta, as trustee of the

Cathedral, for which his Lordship had subscribed a large sum, was

compelled to pay a very considerable amount.

Some of the minor Banks are desirous to procure charters, and to be

only liable for double the amount of their shares. These repositories

advance money to officers in the civil and military services, on

the security of two persons, or other satisfactory pledge. Suppose

an officer borrows 4,000 rupees at ten per cent., to be paid in two

years, by instalments of so much per month. If he fail to do this,

the Bank immediately calls upon the Securities. Thus the Securities

sign a paper, to pay so much per month, should the borrower fail to

do so! They generally agree, however, that the sum in question shall

be deducted by the Paymaster; but in the event of the death of the

borrower, before he has refunded the loan, and without having any

property, the Securities are liable for the remaining balance, and have

to pay the Bank.

To return to the subject of the Houses of Agency. Of the forty-five

houses which failed in Great Britain in 1847 and 1848[107] eighteen

exhibited balance-sheets, which either actually exceeded, or nearly

approached the aggregate of their liabilities, of which only six houses

have either paid, or made arrangements to pay, twenty shillings in

the pound. Of another house, a bill broker proved, that it had assets

nearly triple the amount of its liabilities, the suspension being

caused by temporary difficulties, which produced a complete panic.

One London house connected with India, showed a schedule of assets

amounting to £200,000 beyond their liabilities, still nothing had been

paid in July, 1849. Another house has paid 2_s._ 6_d._ in the pound;

a third, 2_s._; a fourth, 1_s._ 6_d._; a fifth, 1_s._; and a sixth

expects to pay 4_d._ in the pound!

We next arrive at the Chandpaul Ghât, which is nearly in a line with

the Bank of Bengal. It is very old, and is the usual landing-place of

the Governor-General.

In succession come the Steam-engine House and the Baboo Ghât, the

latter having been built in the time of Lord William Bentinck,

Governor-General, by a wealthy native.

We have now described the buildings which run from the extreme right,

beginning with the Mint. The Strand extends beyond the Mint, and is

not used as a drive, for, strictly speaking, the drive, or Course,

begins a little beyond Baboo Ghât, and reaches as far as the Water gate

of Fort William. This road may be three-fourths of a mile in length,

and a hundred feet in width. From the Course, there is a fine view

of the river and shipping, all the way down to Garden Reach. There

is generally a breeze in the hot weather, and during the rains it is

pretty considerable. The plan usually adopted is to drive gently down

the road to the south, and then to return quickly, as the wind is at

your back. Thus you best enjoy "the eating of the air," as it is called

by the natives.

Besides the view of the river and the shipping, the docks and mills

of Howrah give an appearance of great activity, both in ship-building

and in commerce. Some years ago, it was proposed to have a steam ferry

bridge thrown over the Hoogly at this place; and the plan was so far

acted upon, that the bridge was actually sent out from England; but

it was sold, and proved to be one of the many abortive schemes for

the improvement of Calcutta, which fall to the ground for the want

of public spirit. It was said, and perhaps truly, that the plan was

opposed by the Dingee-walas, or native boatmen.

Opposite the Water gate at Fort William is a cenotaph, with a dome in

the Oriental style, erected by Lord Ellenborough to the memory of the

British soldiers who were killed in action at Maharajpore and Punniar,

in December, 1843. The drive extends down to Hastings' Bridge, so named

after Warren Hastings, the first and once celebrated Governor-General

of India. This would extend the drive to the distance of about a mile

and a half. Between the two bridges is Prinsep's Ghât, built in honour

of James Prinsep, the talented Oriental scholar, of whom I have before

made mention.

Beyond the second bridge, are the Kidderpore Docks, and lower still

is Garden Reach, a road of about a mile and a half in length.

There are some handsome houses at Garden Reach, arranged something

in the character of country-seats in the suburbs of London. Here

the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company have a

yard, containing marine stores, coals, and other requisites. The

superintendent resides close by, in a very neat and classic building.

Fort William, which next demands our attention, was projected by

Lord Clive soon after the Battle of Plassey, in 1757; but it was not

finished till the year 1773. It mounts 619 guns, and is said to have

cost, from first to last, £2,000,000 sterling, half of which sum

was paid by Mir Jaffier, whom the British seated on the throne of

Moorshedabad, after the Battle of Plassey. No doubt he was prompted to

this generous act, by his gratitude to his benefactors.

Mir Jaffier was a General, in the service of the former Nawab

Suraj-ud-Dowlah, who in the preceding year, 1756, took Calcutta and

put 146 Europeans into the English prison, since designated by every

schoolboy, "the black hole of Calcutta," where 123 were found to have

died the next morning from suffocation. Lord Clive played a deep game,

but the cruelty of Suraj-ud-Dowlah merited dethronement. He was killed

by the son of Mir Jaffier, when taken prisoner, and although it is not

proved that the father was implicated, still we know that in Eastern

countries, dethronement and death are often contemporaneous.

A Queen's Regiment of Infantry has barracks in the fort. At one time

the Artillery, now quartered at Dum-Dum, used to be stationed here,

except during the cold, or practice season. The Church is an octagonal

building in the centre of the Fort near the Government house. The Fort

has several gateways, the principal of which is the Water gate. The

quarters for the Staff officers of the Fort are in two ranges, where

reside, the principal Commissary of Ordnance, the chief Engineer, the

Fort and Town Majors, and the officer commanding the Queen's Corps.

Facing the river, on the west side, is a three-storied barrack; a range

called the South Barracks, and opposite, or towards the north,--being

part of the Staff Row,--is another range, which together form three

sides of a square. To the south of this square is the Rampart Range,

running south and east, with bomb-proofs. The Arsenal is in front of

the North or Staff range.

Some writers have asserted that the Fort would contain 15,000 men; it

is surrounded by a dry ditch, but is furnished with two sluices, so

that it can be laid under water, if needful, in a few minutes, as it

is not many yards from the river. No batteries could effect anything

from the other side of the water. A bombardment might destroy the Royal

Barracks; but the Fort could only be attacked from the land-side.

During the Burmese war, or rather before the British troops landed at

Rangoon in 1824, the Burmese threatened to march to Calcutta; upon

which the merchants took the alarm, and sent a memorial to government

to have their cash and papers lodged in the Fort; certain it is that

some of the built-up embrasures were opened. Though the Fort was safe,

it is possible that 20,000 Burmese troops might have done some mischief

to the lieges of Calcutta.

The Arsenal of Fort William contains a large supply of arms, and vast

quantities of stores and ammunition. It is now more of a receiving

depôt than formerly. During the second Sikh war of 1848-49, the Fort

of Allahabad was the grand depôt, as explained under the head of

Allahabad. There are hundreds of iron and brass guns in the Fort, the

former garnishing the sides of the roads as if to prove to the natives,

"these are the guns taken at Plassey and Seringapatam; these from the

Maharattas and Sikhs." Constant exposure to the rain, and all weathers,

has caused many of the guns to become "honey-combed," which renders a

gun quite unfit for service.

At a short distance from the river, in the back ground to the east, is

the Chowringhee Road running north and south; to begin north, or from

the right: it is nearly on a line with Cossitollah Street, the northern

part of the city, which I will describe afterwards. The best houses are

those in the centre and left. Before reaching the Racket-court, the

visitor comes to Theatre-street, where, on the north-west angle, stood

"Old Drury," which, I am told, was in its glory from 1807 to 1814. The

Earl of Minto, father of the present Earl, was then Governor-General,

and so great a patron of the drama, that he allowed the performers,

who were in the services, to wear his ambassadorial and other dresses

on the stage; and Mr. H.H. Wilson, M.A., F.R.S., Sanscrit Professor of

Oxford, found time, amid his duties of Assay-master of the Mint, to

take part in the performances, and was, it is said, a good actor.

Between the river and the Chowringhee Road, is the Ochterlony Monument,

which was raised by subscription, among the officers and admirers of

Major-General Sir David Ochterlony, of whose services I have spoken,

when treating of Delhi. Sir David arrived in India in the year 1775,

and died in 1825. Doorjun Lall, the uncle of the present Rajah, who

was a mere boy at his father's death, in the year 1825, usurped the

Guddee[108] from his nephew; upon which Sir David, who was then

Governor-General's Agent, and as such had the power of putting the

troops in motion, assembled an army in the neighbourhood of Muttra.

The Government in Calcutta, however, hearing of this, ordered the

troops to be countermanded. Sir David (called the "Hero of Malown," for

his gallant service in the Nepaul war, in 1814-16, when he accepted

from the Government of that country the ratified treaty, which he had

taken the field to obtain), was therefore constrained to order the

troops back to their several stations. He conceived, as there were two

parties in the city of Bhurtpore, that if a force suddenly marched

to the place, the party in favour of the injured young Rajah would

join the British, and open the city gates. The Government of India,

however, did not, for various reasons, approve of the measure. The

season of the year was certainly an objection against the marching of

troops. They[109] were at that time also "greatly embarrassed by the

continual difficulties and heavy disbursements of the war with Ava,"

which had lasted sixteen months, from April, 1824, to August, 1825;

and, "influenced also by the spirit of the injunctions from home, which

so decidedly deprecated interference with the internal affairs of the

native principalities, the Governor-General was averse to take part

in the adjustment of the succession to Bhurtpore, and disallowed the

existence of any obligation to uphold the claims of the minor Rajah."

However, the majority of the members of Council were of opinion,[110]

"that interference might become indispensable for the protection

of tranquillity in Hindoostan." The Governor-General's sentiments

prevailed: the force was countermanded, and an order sent to Sir David

"to retract the hostile declarations which had been published by him."

The consequence of this expressed disapprobation of his conduct, was

Sir David's resignation. He was at that time sixty-eight years of age,

fifty of which he had passed in the uncongenial climate of India.

The mortification, caused by reversing of his arrangements, doubtless

accelerated his death, for he died almost immediately after, on the

15th of July, 1825. When his decease was reported to Government,

a General Order was issued on the 28th of July, in the Political

department, of which the following are extracts:--

"The Right Hon. the Governor-General has learnt, with great sorrow,

the demise of Major-General Sir David Ochterlony, Resident in Malwa

and Rajputana.... On the eminent military services of Major-General

Sir David Ochterlony it would be superfluous to dilate.... With the

name of Ochterlony, are associated many of the proudest recollections

of the Bengal army.... The Governor-General is pleased to direct, that

minute-guns, to the number of sixty-eight, corresponding with his age,

be fired this evening, at sunset, from the ramparts of Fort William."

Sir David was the first Indian officer who obtained the Grand Cross of

the Bath; an honour so highly prized, that Sir John Malcolm accepted it

in preference to a baronetcy, which Lady Malcolm coveted for her son.

The following remark, made by Sir John at a party at Mhow, in 1819, on

returning thanks, was communicated to me by a friend who was present:--

"Gentlemen,--I preferred the military to the civil honour; and you will

agree with me that I studied the honour of my profession."

Sir David, moreover, was made a baronet. He was, it is believed, an

American.

The monument erected to his memory is situated to the east of

Government House. Mr. C. K. Robinson, the same who built Metcalfe

Hall, and well known for his great taste in civil architecture, was

requested to draw a design for the column. He sketched two plans; and

the one, which now forms such a conspicuous ornament among the public

erections of Calcutta, was selected, as being in the Moslem style, to

indicate the preference which Sir David always shewed to the followers

of the prophet, over the other native population. Subscriptions were

received from all classes in the Bengal Presidency--civil, military,

and mercantile--amounting to nearly 40,000 rupees or £4,000. A

wealthy Calcutta firm, as it was then considered, were appointed the

treasurers; but the building had made only a very little progress when

the firm failed, and £2,700 was lost. The committee requested the

subscribers to repair the deficiency; but many refused, alleging that

the committee were the responsible party, as they might have deposited

the money in the Bank of Bengal. The committee excused themselves on

the plea that their object was to get as much interest as possible;

for, had they vested it in the Bank, they must have deposited a part

for a fixed time, while the remainder would have been a floating

capital without interest.

The builder had contracted to erect the monument for £3,300, without

the platform or the rail around it. A fresh subscription was opened,

and £1,000 collected; but the committee had not benefited by their

recent experience. They placed this £1,000 with another Calcutta

firm, and lost a portion of it by a second failure! Mr. Parker, the

public-spirited contractor, however, agreed to finish the column on

receiving an assignment of the dividend of both houses.

The monument has a pedestal and a railing. In ascending, I counted 190

steps to the first projecting balcony, and twenty-five steps further

led me to the summit. The best view from the top is about sunrise; and

especially in the rainy season, when the dust has been laid by the

previous rain, and the whole city lies before you, with the Hoogly

stretching out right and left.

On the occasion of Her Majesty's birthday, in May 1840, the Court

of Directors ordered fireworks, to the amount of £2,000, when the

Ochterlony monument was illuminated with variegated lamps, to keep in

countenance the Government house, where all the _élite_ of Calcutta

were assembled. The pyrotechnist, on the occasion, was Colonel Richard

Powney, the Commissary of Ordnance in Fort William, whose subsequent

fêtes, in honour of many other events, are well known.

Government house was built during the vice-royalty of the Marquis

Wellesley, at a cost of £130,000 sterling. It is a fine palace, but

the basement is too low, to be in keeping with the superstructure. It

has a centre, and four extending wings; so that, looking at it north,

south, east, or west, you see the centre flanked by two wings. Above

the centre, is a dome, with Britannia standing on a pedestal, armed

with the trident. There are two entrances, one towards the north, and

another towards the south, the grand entrance to the north, being by

a magnificent flight of stone steps. Below, is a covered way for

carriages, and an ingress, through the lower hall, to the stairs

leading to the second floor, in the centre of which is the dining-room.

The wings are appropriated to the private apartments and bedrooms.

The third story is likewise used on state occasions, the centre part

containing the magnificent ball-room. All the staircases are of stone.

The rooms below comprise the military secretaries' offices, and the

official apartments of the aides-de-camp. It is here that the visitor

goes to enter his name and residence in a book, and this is denominated

a call.

There are three gateways to Government House; that to the south is

small and private. In front of the palace is a large verdant square,

which in this hot climate is peculiarly refreshing to the eye,

especially just after the grass has been cut and rolled. The front

rooms of Spence's Hotel command a view of this square, and their

occupants experience much pleasure in looking upon this green spot.

With regard to parties at Government House, the Governor-General has,

what is called, a general list of all persons eligible to the _entrée_,

not to the Queen's Palace _entrée_, but to the ball and supper, given

in honour of Her Majesty's birthday, or other state occasions. Those in

the two services are invited by public notice in the following manner:--

"The Governor-General requests the honour of the company of the

officers of the Civil Service, and of Her Majesty's and the Honourable

Company's army and navy, at a ball and supper in honour of Her

Majesty's birthday."

A dinner was given in 1848, by Lord Dalhousie, on the 24th of May,

and a ball on the 26th. At the former were invited all the heads of

departments. At the ordinary dinners, which generally take place once

a week, gentlemen and ladies are invited according to a list, and dine

in turn. Merchants receive the honour of an invitation, and others

of a certain class. The οἱ πολλοι only attend the great balls and

suppers, when it is possible for an officer to be seated at supper

next to his own coach-maker. Not that any of this class are poor,

for many have realized ample fortunes. During the government of Lord

Auckland, the Misses Eden, his lordship's sisters, introduced weekly

_soirées_ at which from 150 to 200 persons were present. His lordship

was Governor-General from 1836 to 1842. These parties, I am told, were

the most agreeable ever known in Calcutta; for once a week a person

met not only his Calcutta friends, but many also from Europe and Upper

India. People of all shades of colour were collected here, from the

fair blonde of the North, to the Armenian, and even Mahomedan. At

first there was a _soirée_ without dancing every alternate week, but

the introduction of music, and the presence of fair maidens and young

bachelors soon led to the tripping of the light fantastic toe. If not a

dancer, the visitor could sit down and converse with some lady, or he

might cut in for a game of whist with Lord Auckland. On these occasions

the Governor's band was always present, to infuse an equal harmonious

temper into men's minds. At dinner parties, a guest might, if so

disposed, play at billiards; or he might ask one of the Misses Eden to

entreat Mrs. A. or Miss B. to sing; "such a charming creature, and the

finest vocalist ever heard!"--always excepting Jenny Lind.

While Lord Metcalfe was Governor-General, he gave splendid concerts

in the dancing-room, which is eighty feet long, at which all the

professional talent of Calcutta was employed. Lord Auckland, who was

decidedly popular as Governor-General, had, occasionally, private

theatricals and concerts, his parties were numerous, and without any

ostentation or show.

Ideas of grandeur only befit lofty minds. When the Marquis Wellesley

sent home an account of the project of a building fit for the residence

of the Governor-General of British India, his honourable masters were

alarmed at the expense. The reader must look back to that period,

when those gigantic measures of the Marquis had not yet prostrated

the Maharattas; and he must suppose, as was the case, the Bengal

Presidency to have had its northern limit at Futtyghur. If he will

now take the map, and look for Peshawur, and cast his eye south-east

towards Calcutta, he will find Futtyghur nearly central. He must also

recollect that Bundelkund did not then belong to the Company, and that

both the Madras and Bombay Presidencies were much smaller than they are

at present. Besides, the East India Directors, having determined on not

making any territorial acquisitions, could not understand the object

of this immense palace. It was a mystery and a political device. But

now the East India Company hold a greater extent of country than did

Aurungzebe, the emperor, on his death, in 1707; for his successor had

certainly very little power in the Deccan or south of India, nor was

the Punjaub in a settled state.

We next come to the Racket Court, which is situated nearly at the end

of the left of the Chowringhee Road. There are two courts, a wall

dividing the north from the south court. The entrance fee is 100

rupees, with a monthly subscription of eight rupees.

I must next mention the Hotels, of which Spence's is decidedly the

best. It is situated to the west of Government House, and close to

the west gate. It is a long range of buildings, running north and

south, having another range inside, running east and west. The latter

rooms are preferable, having northern and southern aspects. The hotel

can accommodate about 100 persons. A lady and gentleman, occupying a

sitting and bed-room, with a separate table, pay 250 rupees, or £25 per

month; for each additional room, 100 rupees, or £10. Single gentlemen,

who chiefly occupy the range running north and south, having an aspect

east and west, pay 100 rupees for board and lodging; that is to say,

they have only one room each, and must take their meals at the _table

d'hôte_. In both cases, married or single persons, pay separately for

their wines, beer, spirits, soda-water, etc. The proprietors are very

civil persons. The only improvement which suggested itself to me,

during my frequent stay there, was the appointment of Europeans to

superintend the native servants.

The Auckland Hotel, kept by Messrs. Wilson, is opposite the north-east

angle of Government House. This, also, is much frequented. Indeed, I

was assured that the _table d'hôte_ excels Spence's in its _cuisine_.

The terms are similar to Spence's.

There are other hotels on a smaller scale, and of less repute. Spence's

Hotel was the first ever established in Calcutta, and is an immense

concern; for the rent of the buildings alone swallows up £300 a month.

Adjoining, and belonging to the hotel, is a large shop, containing

ices, creams, and confectionary of all sorts, which is generally a

great and favourite lounge for fresh arrivals. In the evening, numbers

of carriages may be seen there at the door, waiting to take up their

owners, who have gone in to quench their thirst, and recruit their

strength, after the heat of the day.

About the year 1812, a theatre was built by some amateurs. Towards the

end of 1813, a society of gentlemen bought the theatre, which stood on

the south side of the street, near the Racket Court, called Theatre

Street, the name it now bears. The manager was Mr. H.H. Wilson, whom

I have had occasion to mention; and the secretary, Mr. W. Linton,

organist of the old Cathedral, now St. John's Church.

Lord Minto took great pleasure in theatricals, and, as I have observed,

gave his diplomatic wardrobe for the use of the performers. Sometimes

the officers acted at Barrackpore, where there was a small theatre, and

at which Lord Minto was generally present. The Marquis of Hastings, who

came out in October, 1813, as Lord Minto's successor, also patronised

theatricals.

When the theatre was burnt, in 1835, the Sans Souci, under the

management of Mr. Stocqueler, was got up near Wilson's Hotel. A theatre

was afterwards built in Park Street, which continued for some time;

but within the last few years, a play can only be got up now and then.

The Roman Catholic Archbishop has since purchased it for a College, or

Seminary for students. This put a termination to the theatricals in

Calcutta.

The Town Hall was raised out of the surplus of a lottery; the

undertaking originated in a resolution of the British inhabitants of

Calcutta, in 1804. The object of the lotteries was the improvement

of the city; and twelve per cent. being deducted from all prizes,

gave a surplus of about £7,000 per annum. From this fund the Town

Hall was built, and is therefore public, _i.e._ government property.

It is situated in Esplanade Row, in a line west from the West gate

of Government house. It was built under the superintendence of the

late Major-General Garstin, of the Engineers, and was finished about

the year 1809, at an expense of £70,000. The members of the Lottery

Committee formed the Town Hall Committee, and all applications for its

use were sent to the secretary. Public meetings were held here and the

lottery drawn, until about the year 1841, when Lord Auckland put a stop

to these gambling concerns, in distinct compliance with the act of

Parliament, which had long before been passed in England.

The length of the Town Hall, from north to south is, inside, 120

feet, its breadth 50 feet, and the height of the lower rooms about

twenty-four feet, and the upper thirty-six feet. It is said to exceed

the Government House in height. Large dinner-parties are frequently

given here in the long room, which is also appropriated to public

meetings.

There are also lesser rooms, where smaller parties and meetings are

convened. The long upper room is used for balls, concerts, etc. When

it was first resolved, in 1812, to have a ball in the upper rooms of

the Town Hall, doubts were entertained, as to whether the beams were so

situated, to render dancing safe; as the walls rested upon the beams;

arches were therefore introduced to support the ceiling, and about 200

coolies were ludicrously made to jump up and down, in imitation of

dancing, to test the capabilities of the beams and walls. The report

being favourable, dancing was decided on, and as this pastime has now

been going on for forty years, it is pretty evident, that the ladies

may safely rely on the proof of long experience, that no danger need be

apprehended from this quarter. Meetings of every kind are held here; at

one time, before regular actresses came out to India, the ladies of the

civil and military services, used to act private theatricals at the

Town Hall; these are among the things that were.

In 1844 a magnificent public dinner was given here to Lord

Ellenborough, prior to his return to England. Meetings have likewise

been held here to decide upon testimonials of public approbation,

in honour of Lords Auckland, Ellenborough, and Hardinge, of Sir

Harry Smith, the hero of Aliwal, and Sir John H. Littler, late

Deputy-Governor of Bengal, on his arrival in Calcutta as member of

Council.

Local and charitable meetings also take place here; concerts too used

to be given at the Town Hall, for many years, but latterly they have

not been on the same scale as heretofore; in former times a concert

used to yield £200 and even £300 a night; single tickets sold at

16_s._, double at 24_s._, and family tickets at 32_s._ each, whereas

now, owing perhaps in some measure to the absence of musical talent in

Calcutta, the same tickets fetch respectively 8_s._ or 10_s._, 14_s._

or 16_s._, 22_s._ or 24_s._ In August, 1848, a club was formed, called

the "Calcutta Glee Club," and which in October following gave its first

concert at the Town Hall, to about 250 friends, all the tickets being

free. In January, 1849, the club gave a grand concert in the great

room, when 800 tickets are said to have been distributed. During the

season of 1849-50 the members had four grand concerts. This club is a

great addition to the amusements of Calcutta society. Mr. S. Harraden,

the organist of the old church, a gentleman of great talent, is the

musical conductor of this Glee Club.

Mr. George Thompson, alias "Grievance Thompson," on his arrival from

England with the late Dwarkanath Tagore, used to make speeches in the

Town Hall, recommending to the natives of India "steam navigation." He

was considered an eloquent and amusing speaker.

The upper part of the Hall, on ascending the long staircases, is

ornamented with large pictures, of Lord Lake and his son, Lord

Metcalfe, Mr. W.W. Bird, and Dwarkanath Tagore. In the room to the

south, are the portraits of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, and of her

Royal Consort, the Prince Albert. In the Hall below, is a very fine

marble statue of the late Marquis Cornwallis, and in the vestibule, a

marble statue of Warren Hastings; on a raised pedestal, facing Warren

Hastings, within the distance of about 100 feet, is a bronze statue of

Lord William C. Bentinck.

Fancy Fairs are also frequently held in the Town Hall, on which

occasions ladies occupy stalls, for the sale of articles made by

themselves and other kind persons, for the benefit of different

charities and schools.

The Town Hall is certainly a very handsome building; but it is of the

Doric order, which looks too heavy a style for the purposes for which

it is intended.

The long building called the Supreme Court is in a line with the Town

Hall, and about 150 yards from it, in the direction of the river. The

Court was established in 1773, with judges appointed by the Crown. It

is a dark and dreary-looking building, in which much money is lost and

gained. Originally, there was a chief judge and three puisne judges;

but now there is only a chief judge and two puisnes, from which it is

to be inferred, that litigation was more prevalent in those days than

it is at present. The celebrated Sir Elijah Impey was the first Chief

Justice. He was also, in 1781, appointed by Warren Hastings judge of

the "Sudder Dewanny Adawlut," or the Company's Chief Native Court of

Appeal, with a salary of £6,000 per annum; a step which put an end to

the disputes between the Supreme Court and the East India Company. Sir

Elijah, however, was recalled by the House of Commons in the following

year. At present, there are nineteen barristers admitted to the Supreme

Court.

When the Company had merely a factory at Calcutta, and lived under the

sufferance of the Nawab, this Court was called "the Mayor's Court";

for in the year 1726 a charter was granted, enabling the Company to

establish a Mayor's Court in each of the three Presidencies, Calcutta,

Madras, and Bombay; also to hold Courts of Quarter Session, to

determine all penal causes, save those of high treason.

An Advocate-General and a Standing Counsel are appointed by the

Company. Owing to a defect in not having a jury in civil causes, the

Judges are both judge and jury. In commercial cases, I am told, they

often lament that there are not juries composed of commercial men;

just as if the remedy were not in their own hands! There are 254 grand

jurors; but including the civilians, there would be at least 270, of

whom forty-three are natives. The petty jury list contains 1,586 names,

and of these 533 are natives. It is to be presumed that civil juries

could be easily formed. The next charter will very probably alter the

present law, which is so contrary to the British constitution.

There are fifty-five attorneys; formerly there were only forty, when

they were facetiously called "the forty thieves." The Supreme Court

includes a "Common Law Court," an "Ecclesiastical Court," a "Court of

Equity" (Chancery), and a "Vice-Admiralty Court."

When, in 1835, the Government cancelled the Sicca rupee, and coined

a new one, called the "Company's rupee," which is six and two-thirds

per cent. of less value than the Sicca rupee, and above two per cent.

below the value of the old Sonaut; the Chamber of Commerce addressed

a memorial on this subject, setting forth the fact that, while all

merchants, shopkeepers, and traders, made their charges in Company's

rupees, the attorneys and barristers of the Supreme Court adhered to

the Sicca rupee charge. To this memorial no answer was given; but it is

to be hoped, that the time is near at hand when this outrageous custom

will be put a stop to, and when lawyers will be content to receive the

same reductions that others have agreed to.

There are four daily Newspapers published at Calcutta; viz., the

"Bengal Hurkaru," the "Englishman," the "Morning Chronicle," and the

"Citizen;" the two former take the lead. There is also a talented

weekly paper, called the "Friend of India," published at Serampore,

sixteen miles distant. When Sir Charles (afterwards Lord) Metcalfe,

on the 15th of September, 1835, emancipated the press from the old

censorship, many persons thought it a bold measure. The step might have

been dangerous thirty years ago; but it is now proved to be extremely

useful that measures and systems should be discussed.

About 1821, the "Calcutta Journal," ably conducted by Mr. J.S.

Buckingham, was prosecuted by the Civil and Military Secretaries to

Government, when the learned editor was obliged to withdraw from India.

For many years there was a meeting at the Town Hall, on the anniversary

of the 15th of September, to commemorate the "freedom of the press," at

which one of the judges usually presided. The remedy for an abuse of

privilege is simple; for if an editor publishes a libellous paragraph,

an action with all its consequences follows. It must be admitted,

that during the commercial distress in 1847-48, and the failure of

many mercantile houses, the press was of important service. Likewise

during the Affghan war, in 1841-42, when, in consequence of the great

distance--more than 1,000 miles from the seat of war--and the serious

interruption to all commercial intercourse under the Bengal Presidency,

the newspapers published many private communications of much interest

from officers, whereas the Government only received intelligence from

official sources.

In the Upper Provinces, the "Delhi Gazette," and the "Mofussilite,"

enjoy about an equal share of patronage. At Lahore, the "Chronicle"

has been established, under the auspices of Mr. Cope, for many years

the able editor of the "Delhi Gazette," and which bids fair to rival

the other two. One of the Subalterns of the army (now Major H.B.

Edwardes, C.B.), attracted notice a few years since, by some excellent

letters written in the Delhi paper, called "Brahminee Bull." In fact

the letters from civilians, officers in the army, merchants, indigo

planters, and others, often constitute the life and soul of the

Metropolitan papers. There is a great deal of talent in the services,

and it is well that it should be called forth, and find a legitimate

field for its exercise. The merits of a trial in the Supreme Court are

sometimes discussed; and in 1849, the press certainly was in a great

measure the cause of the appointment of the commission to inquire into

the misconduct of the Calcutta police; and which at once led to the

removal of a magistrate, who was proved to be indebted £40,000 to an

influential native.

In these public journals, various improvements in the civil

administration of the Provinces are often suggested; the best means

for the safe navigation of the Ganges, etc. Then there are cases of

cure from cholera, or the bites of snakes; letters on the state of

Great Britain and our colonies; dissertations on the native languages;

poetical effusions, etc. In short, many articles in these papers have

led, as it would seem at the East India House, to the formation of an

office for the collection of Indian statistics, so long a desideratum,

and without which the Court of Directors could not state the number of

acres in the North-western Provinces out of cultivation, which is now

known to be 9,816,749.

In Calcutta, there are twelve printing presses; besides the daily

papers, there are six weekly; also two daily, two tri-weekly, two

bi-weekly, four weekly, and five monthly native newspapers. Besides,

the presses publish periodicals, Army Lists, the Calcutta Review,

etc., so that the lieges of Calcutta have ample means of reading, and

becoming acquainted with the state of affairs in the political and

social world.

The liberty of the press in India has not been abused. In a case,

for instance, which occurred in October, 1849, when a barrister

stated,--that if the evidence of a certain examination as to the

conduct of a civil servant were published, it would prejudice the

case,--the press refrained from the publication. In fact, as regards

publication, it is cried down only by those whose conduct is bad; for

such shun the light of truth, as a bat does the light of day.

At present there are about seventy European merchants in Calcutta, if

we deduct the fallen houses. Forty years ago there were only six or

seven. Large fortunes were made in what are called "the good old days;"

but the merchant traded, for the most part, with borrowed capital.

It will be obvious to any person, that if a merchant gave 8, 10, and

at times of pressure 12 per cent., he must have made immense profits

to repay the money borrowed, and realize, besides, what a merchant

considers a fair profit, namely, 12 per cent. per annum. It was a

ruinous system; for, when it was found prudent to speculate, it was

evident that the profit, say upon half the usual outlay, would do

little more than pay the borrower; whereas, by trading with your own

capital, you would acquire smaller profit, but it would be all your

own. When the Houses failed, in the years 1829-33, for eight or ten

crores of rupees, or, in English money, for eight or ten millions

sterling, the shock was dreadful. Though the smaller Houses were left

in possession of the field, they could not take up the business of the

bankrupt firms without pecuniary aid, and that would be by borrowing.

The result would appear to have been this: the small Houses could not

raise the necessary funds, but some old firms sent out a merchant to

form a new House. Thus the late Capt. Cockerell, R.N. (a connexion of

Cockerell and Co., London), established a business on the ruins of

Palmer and Co.

It was the Agency business which destroyed many Houses; because,

while there were a few wealthy servants of government who had lent

money, there were a great many civilians and officers in debt, who

had borrowed money from the Agents. In fact, it might happen that a

House had advanced more money than it had borrowed. The system was

mischievous in another way; for the Agents, to make certain that the

lives of the borrowers were insured, paid the insurance themselves, and

charged it as an item of account with interest: but, _cui bono!_ they

failed, and could not come upon the insurance office till the death of

the persons so insured.

Now in the army we reckon the deaths, except in time of war, at three

per cent. in Bengal, and at Madras and Bombay nearly four per cent. per

annum. Now, if they had a hundred of such constituents, as they were

erroneously called, they would not soon recover their advances.

Again, there was another system devised in Calcutta, namely, that of

compromise. One civilian, for instance, who owed 300,000 rupees, or

£30,000, compromised for £7,000, which he borrowed from a friend. Some

made three and four lakhs of rupees, £30,000 or £40,000, in three or

four years. Some have wound up in fifteen or twenty years; that is,

on the last dividend being paid; say one anna in a hundred rupees, or

three half-pence in £10! or the infinitesimal least portion. Those who

had lent the Houses money, were losers, minus these dividends; _i.e._

some Houses paid 8, 10, 15, 25, and even 33 per cent.

Now, those who lent money, got, say 8 per cent., at a time when the

Company's paper yielded only 4 or 5 per cent., and the Bengal bank 10

(6 per cent. was the last dividend paid in 1849). Many a man risked his

whole fortune in the effort to obtain 3 or 4 per cent., with the chance

of losing all; and he not only lost his all, and ruined himself and his

family, but, in many cases, took refuge in drink, to drown care.

The failure of the great Houses produced a host of small ones; nearly

ten times the number there were forty years ago. On the 1st of

January, 1849, there were, deducting defuncts (forty insolvent firms

in liquidation), about seventy European merchants, thirteen Armenian

merchants and agents, and four Greek firms. Forty years since there

were only six English houses, namely, Alexander and Co., Colvin and

Co., Downie, Cruttenden, and Co., Fairlie and Co., Mackintosh and Co.,

and Palmer and Co. There are now above sixty commercial brokers, the

system of brokers or middlemen being of modern date.

The Chamber of Commerce, consisting of a President, Vice-President,

nineteen members, and a Secretary, was established in April, 1834.

The duty of this chamber is to discuss any subject connected with

commerce. Thus, in the year 1842, the merchants sent in a memorial

to Sir Lawrence Peel, chief justice, complaining that the barristers

and attorneys still charged sicca rupees while all the rest of the

community were taking Company's rupees, or six and two-thirds per

cent. less. Any matter connected with port-dues and pilots, is also

considered by this committee, which is a very useful board.

The Calcutta Trade Association, established in July, 1830, is for the

purpose of regulating matters of trade, and to represent to Government

any grievance injurious to it.

The Indian establishment of the East India Railway Company arrived in

Calcutta in November, 1847. The act for the formation of the Company

guaranteeing 5 per cent., has been passed by Parliament, and a Staff of

Engineers are at work in laying down the projected line of railway.

The great undertaking of a railroad from Calcutta to Delhi, a distance

of more than 900 miles, and afterwards to the Sutlej will require

some years for its completion. The government will thus be able to

move troops, with great rapidity, to any desired spot, at any moment,

and incalculable will be the advantages which India must reap on its

accomplishment. I must refer the reader to a very sensible letter,

written by Lieut.-Colonel Pitt Kennedy, military secretary to the

late Sir Charles Napier, at that time Commander-in-Chief, in which

he briefly points out the comparatively slow progress which Sir

Charles made daily _en route_ from Calcutta to the Upper Provinces,

although, as he says, every facility practicable was afforded. He

distinctly shows what a saving a railroad would effect, in the cost

of the transport of goods from one station to another, and as clearly

determines how the traveller may accomplish in weeks, what he now does

in months, and in hours, what now occupies days.

The Asiatic Society was instituted in the year 1784. It comprises five

scientific sections, as follow:

Section I., Oriental Literature and Philology;

Section II., Natural History;

Section III., Geology and Mineralogy;

Section IV., Meteorology and Physics;

Section V., Geography and Indian Statistics.

The Society meet on the first Wednesday evening in every month, to

discuss the various subjects and papers submitted to their notice. The

rooms are at the corner of Park-street, Chowringhee. Each member pays

sixteen rupees a quarter, or sixty-four rupees a year.

The late Major-General Claud Martine, who was born at Lyons, in France,

and died at Lucknow in September, 1800, left by will the sum of 350,000

Sicca rupees, or about £35,000 sterling, to the town of Calcutta, to

put out at interest in government paper, on the best security; and the

principal and interest to be placed under the protection of Government,

or the supreme Court, in order that they might devise an Institution

the most necessary for the public good of the town of Calcutta, or

establish a school to educate a certain number of children of either

sex, to a certain age, after which the boys were to be apprenticed to

some profession, and the girls married when of proper age; "and," as

the will runs, "every year a premium of a few rupees, or other thing,

and a medal be given to the most deserving or virtuous boy and girl."

This was to be done on the anniversary of the General's death, when a

sermon was to be preached, the prizes distributed, and a dinner given

to the children. This money was most improperly allowed to remain in

the hands of a House of Agency; but at length, after a lapse of more

than thirty years, on the 22nd of October, 1832, the Advocate-General,

having moved the Court against the Agents, the Supreme Court at

Calcutta passed a decree, and directed a school to be established,

to be called "La Martinière," (agreeably to the twenty-fourth clause

of the General's will), and appointed 165,293 Sicca rupees, or about

£16,530, for the cost of the building.

The Court nominated Mr. J.P. Parker to be the builder, and Captain

George Hutchinson, of the Bengal Engineers, to superintend its

erection, receiving six per cent. for his trouble. This arrangement

left a large residue, invested in Government Securities. The children

were to be selected from amongst the poor Christian population of

Calcutta. The girls were to be not under four, nor above twelve

years of age, so that there should be twenty girls at the least:

well-conducted girls, moreover, were to be permitted to remain until

they were sixteen years old, if not before apprenticed or married. The

boys were to be not under four, nor above ten years of age, so that

there should be at least thirty boys.

The Governors of the Martinière Charity met at the Government House

in August, 1835, when it was decided that the religious instruction

given to the children of the school should be in conformity with the

principles held in common by the English, Scotch, Roman, Greek, and

Armenian Churches; but the School was not to be placed under any

particular denomination of Christians! There is a library attached,

consisting of 4,142 volumes, and a large collection of philosophical

instruments, etc.

The Principal of the College is Mr. Henry Woodrow, M.A., Fellow of

Caius College, Cambridge.

On the 31st of August, 1848, the Institution contained 100 foundation

scholars, 32 boarders, 42 day scholars, and 1 day boarder, making

a total of 175 boys; which, with the 70 girls, made a total of 245

children. There were in December, 1849, 270 children on the books

of the School. The funds of the Institution now amount to 1,575,000

Company's rupees, or £157,500, which is more than four times the sum

originally left by General Martine.

The College of Fort William was established by the late Marquis

Wellesley in the year 1802, with various Professors appointed for

Arabic, Persian, Hindoostanee, Sanscrit, and Bengalee. The Writers

intended for the Civil Service used to reside in the long range called

"Writers' Buildings," situated in Tank Square, not far from the north

of Government House.

Examinations were formerly held half-yearly, in the presence of the

Governor-General. The Professors read their report on the number

of terms kept by each student, and their individual proficiency;

the students of each class being severally numbered 1, 2, 3, etc.,

according to the report. The Governor-General then addressed the

students, particularly noticing those who had distinguished themselves

in the various classes; after which the medals and prizes were

distributed.

Among the eminent men who passed at these examinations were the late

Lord Metcalfe, Sir Richard Jenkins, G.C.B., Director of the East India

Company, and W.B. Bayley, Esq., also a Director. At that time all the

Writers for the Bengal, Madras, and Bombay Presidencies passed at this

College; but this system was afterwards given up, and only the Bengal

Writers enter the Calcutta College.[111]

On the establishment of the Haileybury College, in England, about the

year 1805, for the education of Writers, the Calcutta College became

nothing more than a school for the study of the Oriental languages, for

the Bengal Writers, on their arrival in Calcutta. The Marquis Wellesley

had proposed to the Court of Directors that there should be a Provost;

in fact, that it should be placed on the footing of a college in

England, with Professors for all languages. The Court of Directors and

the Board of Control appear to have thought, and with good judgment, as

to general education, that a college in England would be preferable.

As far as the Oriental languages are concerned, the young student may

learn the rudiments in England; and, in a few cases, bright examples

have occurred in the persons of some Writers, who, in a very few

months after their arrival, have passed in three languages. These

exceptions are the cases of young men of considerable talent. It is

said by the natives, that it requires seven years, to master the Arabic

language, and twelve to acquire a perfect knowledge of the Sanscrit.

Admitting that a profound acquaintance with the Sanscrit, or Arabic,

may not be requisite, though the latter is so intimately connected with

the Persian, and the former with the Hindoo languages of Hindee and

Bengalee, still, great advantages result in those cases where students

desire to possess a perfect knowledge of the minor languages.

At present the system in Bengal is this:--The Writers are divided

into two classes; one for the Bengal Presidency, and the other for

the North-west provinces. For the former, Bengalee and Hindee are the

languages studied; and for the latter, Persian and Oordoo. Each Writer

must pass in two languages before he can be reported "qualified for

the public service." There are now two examiners; one of whom is a

subaltern in the 42nd Regiment Bengal Native Infantry. The examinations

are held in the College rooms, at Writers' Buildings; but, unlike the

examinations of our English universities, they are private and not

public. There are at times from twenty to twenty-five, or even more

students, in Calcutta, some of whom are allowed, if they have relations

or friends in the civil service, in the Mofussil (country), to go into

the interior to study.

The usual course is to examine the students monthly; and a report of

their proficiency is made quarterly, and published in the "Gazette."

The "Gazette" also gives the names of those young men who have

obtained prizes; for several read for "honours." It will be evident

that the expenses of a college, which is to embrace the European and

other languages, as well as other studies, such as general history,

mathematics, and geography, would be very considerable. In England,

besides, professors can easily be procured; whereas, in India, it is

impossible to obtain them without great trouble and expense. The latter

consideration weighed with the Court of Directors; and, while they

acknowledged the validity of the Marquis's arguments on the necessity

of giving a superior education to young men, who, in their progressive

rise in the service, would have hundreds, or thousands under them;

who would become heads of great departments in the government, and,

possibly, members of the Council, still acted wisely in giving

that education in England; and this, among other, for the following

reasons:--

Because the young men are brought up in a more congenial climate,

and do not leave England before they are nineteen or twenty years of

age, when they are better able to endure the change of climate; they

arrive in India when they have acquired a certain amount of practical

knowledge of the world; at a period when young men begin to see the

folly of indulging in the expensive habits of youth; and, moreover,

have before them the sad warning of Writers getting into debt, who

might have quitted the service on a pension of £1,000 a-year, had they

not involved themselves in debt in their early career. In fact, they

arrive as young men, and not as boys.

It is evident, therefore, that Haileybury is far superior to any

College which could be established in India.

Except in a few cases of very talented Writers, it is all lost time to

study the Oriental languages in England, beyond the mere grammar and

ground-work. To teach a civilian a few words and phrases, in order to

enable him to ask some necessary questions and give a few orders, is

all that is requisite. It is far better to devote their minds to the

study of the history and political economy of the country, in which

they are to reside, and to assist in governing. Let them study the

laws of England as to crimes, and the civil laws as to obedience and

allegiance; the law of contracts; the mode of recovering debts due to

the Government, and to individuals. Let them well digest the principal

regulations of the government under which they are to serve; and the

customs, manners, prejudices and religion of the natives, both Hindoos

and Mahomedans. These are ample subjects for the employment of the

Writer's mind whilst in England; for as to the Oriental languages,

there is great danger of acquiring a bad pronunciation, a point which

is of the utmost importance in the colloquial languages, such as Oordoo

and Persian.

At the East India Military Seminary, at Addiscombe, the students are

taught mathematics and classics, fortification and artillery, military

drawing and surveying, landscape drawing, geology and mineralogy,

chemistry and French.

It is an important consideration, whether cadets who can now, as in

the Royal Army, enter the service at sixteen years of age, should not

rather leave England at the age of eighteen; for it is a well-known

fact, that recruits for the army are more healthy, and bear the climate

of India better, when they arrive at the age of eighteen, nineteen or

twenty years. Formerly, indeed, direct cadets were sent out to India at

the early age of fifteen years, and Marlow cadets at fifteen and a half.

Bishop's College was founded in 1820, by "The Incorporated Society

for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts," at the instance

of Bishop Middleton. This institution is essentially a religious

foundation, and is under the management of a Principal, the Rev. W.

Kay, B.D., Lincoln College, Oxford, and three Professors.

Bishop's College is open for the admission of all students of moderate

qualifications, who shall conform to its religious ordinances, and its

academical instruction and discipline. It has a library of about 6,000

volumes, besides a large and varied collection of manuscripts, chiefly

Oriental; namely, Syriac, Zend, Pehlevi, Arabic, Persian, Tibetan

and Sanscrit. Among the latter are parts of the first two Vedas, and

several Puranas. The Universities of Oxford and Cambridge send copies

of all works printed at their presses, to Bishop's College.

The students are required to attend divine service twice daily, after

the form of the Common Prayer of the United Church of England and

Ireland, in the beautiful little chapel of the College. They have their

meals in common, in the hall, which is a spacious and elegant room,

adorned with the portraits of the Founder, Bishop Middleton, and of a

former distinguished Principal, the late Rev. W.H. Mill, D.D., Trinity

College, Cambridge, a man for whom I entertained the greatest respect,

as well for his varied and gigantic literary attainments, as for his

quiet and unassuming manners.

The students, with the exception of the natives, wear an academical

dress; and, with the sanction of their parents or guardians, are

expected to embrace the profession of schoolmasters, catechists or

missionaries. The usual period of study is five years, after which

they are employed at a fixed stipend as catechists, until of age for

ordination, when they become missionaries.

There are native teachers for Arabic and Persian, Sanscrit and

Bengalee, Cingalese and Tamul. At the College press, translations are

made into the Oriental languages of the Holy Scriptures and of the

Liturgy, under a revision of the College Syndicate, which consists

of seven members. There were, in 1849, seventeen persons studying at

the College, who, as soon as they become qualified, will be sent as

catechists or missionaries to different parts of India. Two of the

chaplains of the Bengal establishment have been ordained from this

College.

The Madrissa, or Mahomedan College, is situated in Wellesley Square,

Cullinga. Natives are here instructed in the Arabic, the language in

which the laws of the Mahomedan Government are written; and the object

is to preserve a correct knowledge of that language.

There is another Mahomedan College at Hoogly, about twenty miles from

Calcutta, called the College of Mahomed Mohsin, established in August,

1836.

The Hindoo College was established in 1816. It consists of a Principal,

a Lecturer on Mathematics, a Professor of Natural and Experimental

Philosophy and Civil Engineering, a Surveying Master, and an Assistant

Professor of Literature, besides several assistants in the respective

departments.

The Sanscrit College consists of eleven Pundits, three English

teachers, who are natives, two secretaries, and a librarian. The object

of this Institution is to preserve a correct acquaintance with this

original and learned Hindoo language, in which the Hindoo sacred books

and laws are written.

The Schools in Calcutta are numerous. The Free School is a charitable

institution, and its object is not only to educate, but also to

apprentice the children, when they have arrived at a suitable age.

Parents, whose children are not eligible on the score of poverty, may

have them educated in this School, on the monthly payment of a sum,

not exceeding ten rupees, or £1 sterling. On the 1st of January, 1849,

there were 400 children in this Institution.

The Lower Orphan School, Alipore, is divided into two departments, a

boys' and a girls'.

St. Paul's School, Chowringhee, was established in 1845. It is under

a Committee of Management, of which the Right Rev. the Lord Bishop of

Calcutta is the President.

St. James' School, was established by the Society for Promoting

Christian Knowledge. This benevolent Institution, founded in 1809,

admits children of both sexes, and is under the control of three

Trustees. The Parental Academic Institution was founded in March, 1823.

The Free Church Institution, originally established in August, 1830,

under the name of "the General Assembly's Institution," and now

supported by the Free Church of Scotland, consists of a College, a

Normal and Preparatory School. The number of pupils is about 1,100. In

immediate connexion with the Free Church Institution are three Branch

Schools, mustering 550 pupils. The General Assembly's Institution,

situated in Cornwallis Square, has about 500 pupils.

The Bhowanipore Christian Institution was established by the Church

Missionary Society, and contains 475 scholars.

The Indian Free School, situated in Cornwallis Street, was instituted

in 1839. Each scholar pays a fee of two rupees, or 4_s._ a month.

The Anglo-Indian School was established in 1829; the boys pay one and

two rupees, or 2_s._ and 4_s._ per mensem.

The Patriotic College was established in 1846. The terms are from one

and a half to three rupees monthly, and the course of education is the

same as that adopted in the Hindoo college, with slight modifications.

The Normal Institution has two schools, the one Normal and the other

Model. In the former the students are divided into two classes,

stipendiary and free, the first of whom receive from Government 12

rupees or £1. 4_s._ per month.

There is a Baptist Mission School, a European Female Orphan Asylum,

and a Ladies' Baptist Missionary Society. In all, there are seventeen

Public Seminaries for the instruction of boys, exclusive of the

military Upper and Lower Orphan Schools at Kidderpore, and ten private

schools for girls, besides two public schools. The military Upper and

Lower Orphan Schools at Kidderpore are supported, partly by Government,

but chiefly by the subscriptions of the officers of the Bengal army;

the Upper Schools are for the children of officers, and the Lower for

those of the non-commissioned officers and privates. There are 114

boys and 116 girls, or a total of 230 children. Fifteen of the boys

are at St. Paul's school and fifty-seven of the girls at Kidderpore

House. Some of the boys are sent to the regimental bands, and others

are apprenticed to trades. Each girl, on her marriage, receives 1,500

rupees, or £150, as a marriage portion.

There is a Roman Catholic Cathedral Free School for boys and girls, and

a Roman Catholic Seminary, established about the year 1829, for young

ladies and boys under ten years of age.

The Armenian Philanthropic School, founded by the Armenian community in

April, 1821, numbers sixty-seven pupils.

The Medical College comprises two classes of students, namely, one

class who are taught in English, and another in Hindoostanee; the

number of the former is 109, and of the latter 128. A few years

since four of the students of the college were taken to England by

Dr. Goodeve, one of the Professors, where they all passed the London

examination with great credit; one of them took the degree of M.D.

and was made F.R.C.S., a second became M.R.C.S. and is now Assistant

Demonstrator of Anatomy in the college. The object is to furnish a

superior class, in room of the former unscientific, native surgeons.

When they have passed the usual course, the students are called

Sub-Assistant Surgeons, and are sent to corps and to civil stations.

The General Hospital, situated to the south of the race-course, is for

the admission of European soldiers, whose case requires more detailed

treatment than they can have in Fort William. European seamen of

merchant vessels requiring amputations, and patients from the native

troops at Barrackpore, doing duty in Calcutta, are eligible for this

hospital.

The Native Hospital is a most useful institution; besides which there

is also a good Native Hospital at Howrah, and a Seaman's Hospital,

supported by the mercantile community of Calcutta.

In the year 1847 the Government formed an Experimental Mesmeric

Hospital, which was to be tried for a year; Dr. J. Esdaile was

appointed surgeon in charge. There is no doubt that some of the medical

profession at Calcutta did not like the new hospital, for it was

utterly foreign to the ideas of most people in India. At the end of

the year a Report was given in, and a committee appointed to determine

upon its merits; but their decision being unfavourable to the renewal

of the hospital for a further term, the experiment was given up. Upon

this the natives of rank and influence sent a memorial to Government,

who replied, that as the Hospital was chiefly for the benefit of the

natives, the Government would allow Dr. Esdaile's services for the

institution, on condition that the natives should subscribe to it.

In June, 1848, a meeting took place to consider the matter; when

several European and native gentlemen gave donations, and offered

monthly subscriptions, for the formation of the hospital. At the

request of the Committee, the Government furnished the necessary

instruments for operations.

Dr. Esdaile had previously published a work on the subject of

Mesmerism; and had, while civil surgeon of Hoogly, privately, and at

his own expense, formed a ward in his hospital for mesmeric operations.

A report was published of his cases; and the result was highly

satisfactory.

The new hospital was opened in August, 1848, since which time people

have come from great distances to undergo a "painless operation."

If Dr. Elliotson, who is considered, by many, to be one of the most

accomplished medical men in Europe, and, luckily, a man of property,

lost many of his patients in consequence of his advocacy of the new

theory, Dr. Esdaile surely was a bold man to propose Mesmerism in

Calcutta, where there are so many "ditch" jobs carried on. Had a

Governor-General undergone an operation, under its mild influence,

Mesmerism would have been the order of the day; for then all the

members of council and secretaries of government would have become

converts, as a matter of course.

The objections of the medical members who drew up the unfavourable

report, were most singular. Some thought Mesmerism would affect the

nervous system; others said that as it had only been tried on natives,

they doubted whether Europeans could be influenced by it. Latterly,

however, there has been a reaction. It is known that ether and

chloroform have been extensively used in England, France, and America;

indeed, in one large hospital in London, all surgical operations are

effected under the influence of chloroform. Both ether and chloroform

may become safe means in process of time; but as yet it cannot be

denied that many fatal results have occurred. With a large army on

active service, one or the other of the remedies will, doubtless,

often be resorted to, after an action. But the mesmeric process would

not always answer in such cases, as it frequently requires time. Some

patients are altogether incapable of being affected in one day.

As to Europeans, the answer is simply this; if one manipulator be not

sufficient, two, three, or more operators must be called in. At Madras,

a short time ago, it was proposed to place a lady about to be confined,

under the influence of ether, when her husband objected, because it is

written in the Bible (Gen. iii. 16) "I will greatly multiply thy sorrow

and thy conception; in sorrow thou shalt bring forth children." Upon

the same principle a man ought to object to another person's taking

medicine to alleviate pain. Such an unchristian perversion of doctrine

was never before resorted to; as if it could be displeasing to God,

that his creatures should use any means to mitigate the sufferings of

humanity.

The Eye Infirmary was established about thirty years since. It is a

very useful hospital, for many of the natives suffer from cataract.

About twenty years ago it was proposed to establish an Eye infirmary

at Meerut, and there certainly appears to be an opening for a second.

About two-thirds of the Bengal army is now stationed in the Upper

Provinces; and, if one such infirmary be required for the city of

Calcutta, it is to be presumed that another would be necessary in a

position so distant as 900 miles. The population of the North-Western

provinces is, as I have stated, 23,199,668, not including some 60,000

soldiers.

The Sailors' Home was instituted in 1837. Captain T.E. Rogers, I.N.,

Superintendent of Marine, is President, and the American, Danish, and

French Consuls, are Vice-Presidents. The object is to suppress the

system of crimping. Before this "Home" was established, seamen, when

ill, were obliged to go where they could, and thus they fell into the

hands of crimps, who cheated them out of their money, and injured their

health and morals. Now both officers and men can go to the "Home," and

obtain comfortable board and lodging at reasonable rates. By another

admirable rule of the institution, they may deposit their earnings with

the Superintendent, during their stay in Calcutta. The Superintendent

is also at liberty to provide dinners for parties coming on shore on

leave, at fixed rates, on a day's notice being given. "Drunkenness,

profane swearing, and inordinate conduct, will be in every way

discountenanced; and orderly, sober, and industrious habits encouraged.

Medical attendance when required."

The Government make an allowance of 1,100 rupees (£110) yearly for

house-rent. On the 31st of January, 1849, it appears from the Report,

that "the 'Home' had clothed and maintained, free of expense to the men

themselves, eighty shipwrecked and distressed seamen, who, but for the

'Sailors' Home,' would have been destitute."

In the year 1848, the number of inmates was 687. The men on the whole

behaved well.

The Calcutta Alms Houses, were erected by the munificence of Lady

William Bentinck, about the year 1835.

There are eight Masonic Lodges in Calcutta, and about 1,700 free

and accepted Masons. As a Master Mason (Scientific Lodge, No. 105),

adhering to the obligations I have entered into, never to reveal any

masonic secrets, which have been entrusted to my keeping, I would

cautiously shun the present occasion of doing so. Although as a soldier

I might be led to expatiate, still I will pass over the allegorical

and symbolical science of masonry, only remarking that I never knew a

mason who was a bad or troublesome soldier: but, on the contrary, the

more perfect the mason, the more noble the soldier.

The Botanical Garden was established about sixty years since, under the

superintendence of the late General Kyd, of the Bengal Engineers. In

1794, the late Dr. Roxburgh, of the Madras Medical Establishment, was

nominated Superintendent; since that gentleman's retirement, it has

been under a Bengal medical officer. The object is to collect trees,

plants, and flowers from the different parts of India and adjacent

countries, from the Malayan Archipelago, China, Mauritius, Africa,

Europe and America. The Garden is situated on the other, or right bank

of the river, opposite Garden Reach, and not far from Bishop's College.

It is a very favourite resort in the cold season, when parties are made

up to visit the Garden, and spend the day there. There is a branch

garden at Saharunpore near the hills, under the Himalaya Mountains.

With the renewal of the charter, in 1834, it was thought necessary to

appoint a Law Commission, and the President, a legal gentleman who

was sent out from England, has a seat in the Council of India. Two

members were at the same time appointed, one from Madras, and another

from Bombay; together with a secretary. The present President is Mr.

Peacock, who appears to be left alone to work out acts for India,

the two members having gone. How long this office may continue, it

is impossible to say: the next charter will probably introduce a new

system. The members were gentlemen of the Civil Service; and if the

system of law education at Haileybury should be improved, it may become

possible to find one, out of eight or nine hundred civilians, competent

to be President.

The Council of Education consists of a President and nine members,

three of whom are natives. All Colleges and schools, supported

or assisted by the Government with any allowance, are under the

superintendence of the Council of Education. This Council directs

the course of education for all colleges and schools where English

is taught, excepting Bishop's College, and the Medical (strictly so

called) College, and selects the works or books to be read. This

supervision or control extends to the out-stations, and indeed to all

the schools under the Bengal Presidency.

The European Lunatic Asylum, is near the General Hospital. At Benares,

there is a similar one for unfortunate natives.

The Small Cause Court, is a Court for the recovery of debts due by

Europeans to natives, or by natives to Europeans; in fact any person

may be a plaintiff.

The maximum amount of claim or debt, sued for in this court, is 500

rupees or £50 sterling. The amount of decrees probably extends to five

or six lakhs of rupees (£50,000 or £60,000) per annum. Poor people can

sue in _forma pauperis_, when the judges dispense with the cost of

fees. The Act is somewhat similar to the English Small Cause, or County

Courts.

Military Courts of Request, are held at every station in the army. All

European as well as Native Officers, Non-commissioned Officers and

Sepoys are subject to them, except such European and non-commissioned

officers as are holding staff appointments away from their regiments.

There is a European Court and a Native Court, in which sums of 400 and

200 rupees (£40 and £20) or under, can be respectively sued for. In

certain cases, however, in the Native Courts, sums to any amount may be

investigated.

The Police Office, is presided over by a Chief Magistrate and two other

Magistrates, one of whom is a Native. The Chief Magistrate superintends

the River Police; the Senior Magistrate, the Second or Southern

Division; and the Junior Magistrate, the First or Northern Division

of Calcutta. There is also a Superintendent of Police. The Native

Policemen amount to about 1,900, besides a body of Mounted Police who

patrol at night. On my second arrival at Calcutta, in August, 1849, I

found the police in a much more efficient state than when I left for

England, in July, 1846, both as regards number and general usefulness.

The Bengal Civil Fund, entitles the civil servants of the Government to

obtain their pension of £1,000 per annum, by paying 4 per cent. out of

their salaries. To become entitled to this pension, a civilian must pay

up 50,000 rupees (£5,000); it is taken by seniority.

The Bengal Civil Service Annuity Fund, is to grant pensions to the

widows and orphans of deceased civil servants, securing to the widow

£300 a year, and so much for each child; if she marries, she forfeits

the pension for herself, but the children are kept on the Fund. If the

widow has a private income of less than £100 a year, she gets the £300;

but if above £100 and under £400, the sum is made up to £400 per annum.

The object of the Bengal Military Fund, is to grant pensions to the

widows of officers, after the following scale:

If in India, In England

per mensen. per annum.

Rupees Annas Pies. £. _s._ _d._

A Colonel's widow draws 238 6 5 342 3 9

A Lieut.-Colonel's 190 11 6 273 15 0

A Major's 143 0 7 205 6 3

A Captain's 95 5 9 136 17 6

A Lieutenant's 71 3 1 102 3 9

An Ensign's 56 9 8 81 5 0

Children are allowed so much a year; boys up to a certain age, but

girls may be kept on the Fund till they are married. A sick officer,

provided he does not possess 5,000 rupees (£500), will obtain 1,200

rupees (£120) passage money. Subalterns when sick, if they do not

possess £50 per annum above their pay, will be allowed £50 passage

money.

Lord Clive's Fund, established in 1776, is now paid by the Court of

Directors, and amounts to half an officer's pay, if not possessing as

follow:

A Colonel £4,000

A Lieut.-Colonel 3,000

A Major 2,500

A Captain 2,000

A Lieutenant 1,000

A Surgeon 2,000

An Ensign 750

The object of the Queen's Military Fund, which was raised in 1820, and

revised in 1827, is to pay the passage home of widows and children of

the Royal Service:

A Field Officer's Widow is allowed 2,000 rupees, or £200

A Captain's and Subaltern's 1,500 " 150

The allowance for each child

Not exceeding three, is 500 rupees, or £50

Exceeding three 300 " 30

A certain sum is also granted to enable widows and children, on

landing, to reach their homes, which is called "travelling expenses."

Officers, if so disposed, may pay so much monthly: that is to say,

Rupees £ _s._

Commander-in-Chief 30 or 3 0

General Officer 20 " 2 0

Adjutant-General 12 " 1 4

Deputy ditto 10 " 1 0

Ditto Assistant ditto 8 " 16

Brigade-Major 6 " 12

Lieutenant-Colonel, if commanding 10 " 1 0

Ditto, if not 8 " 16

Major, if commanding 8 " 16

Do. if not 6 " 12

Captain, Paymaster, or Surgeon 4 " 8

Lieutenant, or Assistant Surgeon 2 " 4

Cornet, Second Lieutenant, or Ensign 1 " 2

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 105: A Crore is 100 lakhs, or 10,000,000 rupees.]

[Footnote 106: Vide "A Discourse on the Studies of the University of

Cambridge," by Professor Sedgwick, M.A., F.R.S., etc., Vice-Master of

Trinity College, Cambridge.]

[Footnote 107: Atlas for India, July, 1849.]

[Footnote 108: "Guddee" means a "cushion." Let the reader place a

cushion for the back, and one on each side, and he will have the Hindoo

"Guddee" or throne.]

[Footnote 109: Wilson's Mill's History of India, vol. ix. p. 185.]

[Footnote 110: Ibid, vol. ix. p. 186.]

[Footnote 111: Whilst correcting the press this College has been

abolished, and is replaced by a Board of Examiners at Calcutta,

consisting of a president, and as many members as the Government may

think fit to appoint.]

APPENDIX.

I.

[Page 39.]

THE TREATY WITH LAHORE OF 1809.

_Treaty between the British Government and the Rajah of Lahore_, (25th

of April, 1809.)

WHEREAS certain differences which had arisen between the British

Government and the Rajah of Lahore have been happily and amicably

adjusted; and both parties being anxious to maintain relations of

perfect amity and concord, the following articles of treaty, which

shall be binding on the heirs and successors of the two parties, have

been concluded by the Rajah Runjeet Singh in person, and by the agency

of C.T. Metcalfe, Esquire, on the part of the British Government.

Article 1.--Perpetual friendship shall subsist between the British

Government and the State of Lahore: the latter shall be considered,

with respect to the former, to be on the footing of the most favoured

powers, and the British Government will have no concern with the

territories and subjects of the Rajah to the northward of the river

Sutlej.

Article 2.--The Rajah will never maintain in the territory which he

occupies on the left bank of the river Sutlej, more troops than are

necessary for the internal duties of that territory, nor commit or

suffer any incroachments on the possessions or rights of the Chiefs in

its vicinity.

Article 3.--In the event of a violation of any of the preceding

articles, or of a departure from the rules of friendship, this treaty

shall be considered null and void.

Article 4.--This treaty, consisting of four articles, having been

settled and concluded at Umritsur, on the 25th day of April, 1809, Mr.

C.T. Metcalfe has delivered to the Rajah of Lahore a copy of the same

in English and Persian, under his seal and signature; and the Rajah

has delivered another copy of the same under his seal and signature,

and Mr. C.T. Metcalfe engages to procure within the space of two

months, a copy of the same duly ratified by the Right Honourable the

Governor-General in Council, on the receipt of which by the Rajah,

the present treaty shall be considered complete and binding on both

parties, and the copy of it now delivered to the Rajah shall be

returned.

II.

[Page 39.]

SIR DAVID OCHTERLONY'S PROCLAMATION OF 1809.

_Precept or "Ittillah Nameh," under the Seal of General St. Leger, and

under the Seal and Signature of Colonel Ochterlony; written on the 9th

of February, 1809, corresponding to the 23d Zee Hijeh, 1223, Hijree._

THE British army having encamped near the frontiers of the Maharajah

Runjeet Singh, it has been thought proper to signify the pleasure of

the British Government, by means of this precept, in order to make

all the Chiefs of the Maharajah acquainted with the sentiments of the

British Government, which have solely for their object and aim to

confirm the friendship with the Maharajah, and to prevent any injury

to his country, the preservation of friendship between the two States,

depending on particular conditions which are hereby detailed.

The Thânnahs in the fortress of Khur'r, Khanpore, and other places on

this side of the river Sutlej, which have been placed in the hands of

the dependents of the Maharajah, shall be razed, and the same places

restored to their ancient possessors.

The force of cavalry and infantry which may have crossed to this side

of the Sutlej must be recalled to the other side, to the country of the

Maharajah.

The troops stationed at the Ghât of Philour must march thence, and

depart to the other side of the river as described, and in future the

troops of the Maharajah shall never advance into the country of the

Chiefs situated on this side of the river, who have called in for their

security and protection Thânnahs of the British Government; but if in

the manner that the British have placed Thânnahs of moderate number

on this side of the Sutlej, if in like manner a small force by way of

Thânnah be stationed at the Ghât of Philour, it will not be objected to.

If the Maharajah persevere in the fulfilment of the above stipulations,

which he so repeatedly professed to do in the presence of Mr. Metcalfe,

such fulfilment will confirm the mutual friendship. In case of

non-compliance with these stipulations, then shall it be plain that the

Maharajah has no regard for the friendship of the British, but, on the

contrary, resolves on enmity. In such case the victorious British army

shall commence every mode of defence.

The communication of this precept is solely with the view of publishing

the sentiments of the British, and to know those of the Maharajah. The

British are confident that the Maharajah will consider the contents

of this precept as abounding to his real advantage, and as affording a

conspicuous proof of their friendship; that with their capacity for war

they are also intent on peace.

III.

[Page 61.]

I MUST here observe, that in having so very large an Artillery, General

Thomas proved his appreciation of powerful batteries, an experience

which he had probably acquired on board a man-of-war, as everything,

in a naval action, depends upon the quick application of a powerful

broadside of, say thirty, forty, or sixty guns. General Thomas had

twelve guns to every thousand men. In Europe, the largest number ever

used, was by the Russians, in 1807, namely seven guns to every thousand

men. Hyder Ali Khan and Tippoo Sultan always used a great number of

guns of a large calibre; in like manner the Maharatta chiefs, Sindiah

and Holcar brought eighty and a hundred guns into the field of battle.

Except very recently, we have had fewer guns than the Sikhs; the battle

of Goojerat (Feb. 21, 1849) being the only one in which we appear to

have been superior to the enemy in this respect.

IV.

[Page 62.]

THE TREATY WITH LAHORE OF 1806.

_Treaty of Friendship and Unity between the Honourable East India

Company and the Sirdars Runjeet Singh and Futteh Singh._ (1st of

January, 1806.)

SIRDAR Runjeet Singh and Sirdar Futteh Singh have consented to the

following articles of agreement concluded by Lieutenant-Colonel John

Malcolm, under the special authority of the Right Honourable Lord Lake,

himself duly authorized by the Honourable Sir George Hilaro Barlow,

Bart., Governor-General, and Sirdar Futteh Singh, as principal on the

part of himself, and plenipotentiary on the part of Runjeet Singh:--

Article 1.--Sirdar Runjeet Singh and Sirdar Futteh Singh Aloowalla,

hereby agree that they will cause Jeswunt Rao Holcar to remove with his

army to the distance of thirty coss from Umritsur immediately, and will

never hereafter hold any further connection with him, or aid or assist

him with troops, or in any other manner whatever; and they further

agree that they will not in any way molest such of Jeswunt Rao Holcar's

followers or troops as are desirous of returning to their homes in the

Deccan, but, on the contrary, will render them every assistance in

their power for carrying such intention into execution.

Article 2.--The British Government hereby agrees, that in case a

pacification should not be effected between that Government and

Jeswunt Rao Holcar, the British army shall move from its present

encampment, on the banks of the river Beeah, as soon as Jeswunt Rao

Holcar aforesaid shall have marched his army to the distance of thirty

coss from Umritsur; and that in any treaty which may hereafter be

concluded between the British Government and Jeswunt Rao Holcar, it

shall be stipulated that, immediately after the conclusion of the said

treaty, Holcar shall evacuate the territories of the Sikhs, and march

towards his own, and that he shall in no way whatever injure or destroy

such parts of the Sikh country as may lie in his route. The British

Government further agrees that, as long as the said Chieftains, Runjeet

Singh and Futteh Singh, abstain from holding any friendly connection

with the enemies of that Government, or from committing any act of

hostility on their own parts against the said Government, the British

armies shall never enter the territories of the said Chieftains,

nor will the British Government form any plans for the seizure or

sequestration of their possessions or property.

Dated 1st of January, 1806.

V.

[Page 65.]

PROCLAMATION OF PROTECTION TO CIS SUTLEJ STATES AGAINST LAHORE. Of 1809.

_Translation of an "Ittilah Nameh," addressed to the Chiefs of the

Country of Malwa and Sirhind, on this side of the river Sutlej._ (3rd

of May, 1809.)

IT is clearer than the sun and better proved than the existence of

yesterday, that the marching of a detachment of British troops to this

side of the river Sutlej was entirely at the application and earnest

entreaty of the several Chiefs, and originated solely from friendly

considerations in the British Government, to preserve them in their

possessions and independence. A treaty having been concluded, on the

25th of April, 1809, between Mr. Metcalfe on the part of the British

Government, and Maharajah Runjeet Singh, agreeably to the orders of the

Right Honourable the Governor-General in Council, I have the pleasure

of publishing, for the satisfaction of the Chiefs of the country

of Malwa and Sirhind, the pleasure and resolution of the British

Government, as contained in the seven following articles:--

Article 1.--The country of the Chiefs of Malwa and Sirhind having

entered under the British protection, they shall in future be secured

from the authority and influence of Maharajah Runjeet Singh,

conformably to the terms of the treaty.

Article 2.--All the country of the Chiefs thus taken under protection

shall be exempted from all pecuniary tribute to the British Government.

Article 3.--The Chiefs shall remain in the full exercise of the same

rights and authority in their own possessions which they enjoyed before

they were received under the British protection.

Article 4.--Should a British force, on purposes of general welfare,

be required to march through the country of the said Chiefs, it

is necessary and incumbent that every Chief shall, within his own

possessions, assist and furnish, to the full of his power, such force

with supplies of Grain and other necessaries which may be demanded.

Article 5.--Should an enemy approach from any quarter, for the purpose

of conquering this country, friendship and mutual interest require that

the Chiefs join the British army with all their force, and, exerting

themselves in expelling the enemy, act under discipline and proper

obedience.

Article 6.--All European articles brought by merchants from the eastern

districts, for the use of the army, shall be allowed to pass, by the

Thânnahdars and Sayerdars of the several Chiefs, without molestation

and the demand of duty.

Article 7.--All horses purchased for the use of cavalry regiments,

whether in the district of Sirhind or elsewhere, the bringers of which

being provided with sealed "Rahdaries" from the Resident at Delhi, or

officer commanding at Sirhind, shall be allowed to pass through the

country of the said Chiefs without molestation or the demand of duty.

VI.

[Page 67.]

PROCLAMATION OF PROTECTION TO CIS SUTLEJ STATES AGAINST ONE ANOTHER OF

1811.

_For the Information and Assurance of the Protected Chiefs of the

Plains between the Sutlej and the Jumna._ (22nd of August, 1811.)

ON the 3rd of May, 1809, an "Ittilah Nameh," comprised of seven

articles, was issued by the orders of the British Government,

purporting that the country of the Sirdars of Sirhind and Malwa having

come under their protection, Rajah Runjeet Singh, agreeably to treaty,

had no concern with the possessions of the above Sirdars: That the

British Government had no intention of claiming Peishkushs or Nuzerana,

and that they should continue in the full control and enjoyment of

their respective possessions. The publication of the above "Ittilah

Nameh" was intended to afford every confidence to the Sirdars, that

the protection of the country was the sole object, that they had no

intention of control, and that those having possessions should remain

in full and complete enjoyment thereof.

Whereas several Zumindars and other subjects of the Chiefs of this

country have preferred complaints to the officers of the British

Government, who, having in view the tenor of the above "Ittilah Nameh,"

have not attended, and will not in future pay attention to them;--for

instance, on the 15th of June, 1811, Delawur Ali Khan of Samana

complained to the Resident of Delhi against the officers of Rajah

Sahib Singh, for jewels and other property said to have been seized by

them, who, in reply, observed, that the "Cusba of Samana being in the

Ameeldary of Rajah Sahib Singh, his complaint should be made to him;"

and also, on the 12th of July, 1811, Dussowndha Singh and Goormook

Singh complained to Colonel Ochterlony, Agent to the Governor-General,

against Sirdar Churrut Singh, for their shares of property, etc.; and

in reply it was written on the back of their urzee, "that since during

the period of three years, no claim was preferred against Churrut Singh

by any of his brothers, nor even the name of any co-partner mentioned;

and since it was advertised in the 'Ittilah Nameh' delivered to the

Sirdars, that every Chief should remain in the quiet and full enjoyment

of his domains, the petition could not be attended to,"--the insertion

of these answers to complaints is intended as examples, and also that

it may be impressed on the minds of every Zumindar and other subject,

that the attainment of justice is to be expected from their respective

Chiefs only, that they may not, in the smallest degree swerve from

the observance of subordination.--It is, therefore, highly incumbent

upon the Rajahs and other Sirdars of this side of the river Sutlej,

that they explain this to their respective subjects, and court their

confidence, that it may be clear to them, that complaints to the

officers of the British Government will be of no avail, and that they

consider their respective Sirdars as the source of justice, and that,

of their free will and accord, they observe uniform obedience.

And whereas, according to the first Proclamation, it is not the

intention of the British Government to interfere in the possessions of

the Sirdars of this country, it is nevertheless, for the purpose of

ameliorating the condition of the community, particularly necessary

to give general information, that several Sirdars have, since the

incursion of Rajah Runjeet Singh, wrested the estates of others, and

deprived them of their lawful possessions, and that in the restoration

they have used delays, until detachments of the British army have

been sent to effect restitution, as in the case of the Rannee of

Terah, the Sikhs of Cholian, the Talookas of Carowley and Chehloundy,

and the village of Cheeba; and the reason of such delays and evasions

can only be attributed to the temporary enjoyment of the revenues,

and subjecting the owners to irremediable losses:--It is, therefore,

by order of the British Government, hereby proclaimed, that if any

one of the Sirdars or others has forcibly taken possession of the

estates of others, or otherwise injured the lawful owners, it is

necessary that, before the occurrence of any complaint, the proprietor

should be satisfied, and by no means to defer the restoration of

the property,--in which, however, should delays be made, and the

interference of the British authority become requisite, the revenues of

the estate from the date of ejection of the lawful proprietor, together

with whatever other losses the inhabitants of that place may sustain

from the march of troops, shall without scruple be demanded from the

offending party; and for disobedience of the present orders, a penalty,

according to the circumstances of the case and of the offender, shall

be levied, agreeably to the decision of the British Government.

VII.

[Page 69.]

INDUS NAVIGATION TREATY OF 1832.

_Articles of Convention established between the Honourable the East

India Company, and his Highness the Maharajah Runjeet Singh, the Ruler

of the Punjaub, for the opening of the Navigation of the rivers Indus

and Sutlej._ (Originally drafted 26th of December, 1832.)