Moorshedabad--Cossimbazar--"Eina Mahal"--The Nawab Cowar Krishnath
Roy--"Snake-boats"--Population of Moorshedabad--Berhampore--Ivory
and Silk Manufactures--Kulna--The Tidal-bore--English Factory at
Kulna--Hoogly--Chinsurah--Chandernagore--Ishapore--Barrackpore
--Serampore--Dum-Dum--Garden Reach--Calcutta.
AT four o'clock on the afternoon of the 4th of June, we lay off
Moorshedabad, a large, unwalled town, in the Province of Bengal, of
which it was the capital from 1704 until our conquests transferred that
distinction to Calcutta, in 1757.
In 1704, when Moorshed Coole Khan transferred the seat of government
to this place, he changed its name of Mukhsooabad to Moorshedabad. It
extends for eight miles along both sides of the most sacred branch of
the Ganges, called Bhauguretty, or Cossimbazar, at a distance of about
120 miles above Calcutta. It is an excessively shabby-looking town;
the houses are ill built, and have a mean appearance, most of them
being only one story high. Some are of brick with tile roofs, others
of mud; others again mere straw huts, all jumbled together without
the slightest attention to regularity. The streets, too, like most of
those in the East, are narrow and crooked, and seem to bid defiance to
cleanliness and order. A redeeming point is the number of fine trees,
which impart a picturesque character to this heterogeneous mass of
buildings. Close to the brink of the river, however, there are some
tolerable houses, mosques and temples, but these, too, are inferior to
those of other cities.
The most conspicuous and handsome building in the city, is the
palace of the Nawab. It is quite a magnificent place, and is called
"Eina Mahal." It was planned and built under the superintendence of
Lieutenant-General Duncan M'Leod, of the Bengal Engineers. It is a most
chaste and elegant structure, built in the European style, of pure
white marble of dazzling brightness. It almost rivals the Government
House, at Calcutta. The General took a correct model of it to England
for the inspection of the public, who must have admired it greatly, and
commended the taste and ingenuity of the architect.
There are also some fine remains of the old palace, built by Aliverdi
Khan, about 1750, constructed in the Hindoo style, with the rich black
marbles and pillars that once graced the city of Gour.
Cossimbazar, a little town about one mile south of the city, and which,
properly speaking, is the port of Moorshedabad, is a place of immense
traffic, and great inland trade. Until the days of free trade, there
was a silk factory at Cossimbazar, and the late Hon. Andrew Ramsay,
uncle of the Marquis of Dalhousie, was the commercial Resident for many
years.
Moorshedabad is still the residence of the Nawab of Bengal, who
inhabits the Palace which I have described above. The present Nawab,
Cowar Krishnath Roy, has been instructed in the English language.
He is about thirty years of age; an English education has greatly
improved him, and though he has not altogether divested himself of
his Mahomedan habits, still those who are personally acquainted with
him, inform me, that his manners are those of a well-bred European,
and that he is intelligent, and very fond of reading. He sometimes
goes to Calcutta, and may be seen there on the course, in his barouche
and four, driven by an English coachman. My gentle readers must not be
surprised to learn that the young prince has more than one wife; but
they may be forgiven for being astonished at being told that European
ladies have married Nawabs.
The Prince has many boats, built on the Burmese model, of great length,
with short paddles. They are called "snake boats," and shoot along with
the rapidity of an arrow. I have seen one of them keep pace with a
steamer for several miles. They are generally rowed by twenty men. The
Nawab's state barge is very handsome, it is richly painted and gilded,
and draped with canopies and carpets of the richest combination of
colours, which produce a gorgeous and pleasing effect. It is only used
on grand occasions, and is attended by a band of music which follows in
another boat.
Moorshedabad is now the residence of the British Civil Establishment,
and the head-quarters of a Circuit Court, comprising six of the
neighbouring districts. The mint is now under the control of the
British.
The population of Moorshedabad has been given at 600,000, nay even at
700,000 persons; but taking Delhi and its suburbs, by the returns,
to be 160,279 persons, and recollecting that Benares contains only
183,491, we can scarcely allow more than 200,000 inhabitants. The
number of houses, of every kind, was returned, in 1814, at about
30,000; and, according to the computation usual in Bengal, of eleven
individuals to every two houses, the population at that time was
165,000. The trade, and especially the inland traffic is very brisk;
the staple commodities are silk and indigo; the former is manufactured
in the vicinity of the city, into the most beautiful silks and
taffetas. The silk goods manufactured here are considered to be of very
superior quality. The trade is greatly promoted by facilities of steam
and river navigation. This is especially the case during the rainy
season, when the river is crowded with boats, bringing and fetching
the merchandise. From October to May, the trade is very slack, for at
that season the Bhauguretty is almost dry. At its junction with the
Jellinghee further down, these two branches of the Ganges form the
Hoogly, which runs to Calcutta.
The indigo trade is extremely lucrative; large supplies are sent to
Calcutta, whence they are shipped to England, and thence to other
parts of Europe. It has long formed an important branch in the East
Indian trade, as the Indian indigo is highly prized on account of its
superior colour. This beautiful dye, which was not known in Europe till
the beginning of the 17th century, when it was first introduced by the
Dutch, seems to have been in use more than 2,000 years ago, as we infer
from a passage in Pliny.
Six miles from Moorshedabad is Berhampore, on the east bank of the
Bhauguretty. It contains very fine barracks for European troops, with
an upper story, at the extremities of a magnificent parade ground. The
quarters of the officers are much like those at Dinapore, of which
I have made mention. Berhampore was formerly the head-quarters of a
Division of the army: the commandant's house, pleasantly situated on
the bank of the river, is now occupied by an indigo planter. There is a
chaplain here and two missionaries, one of whom, however, is a Roman
Catholic. A few civilians also reside here; but the place is generally
very dull, and much disliked.
Formerly, there used to be a European regiment, a corps of Native
Infantry, and a brigade of guns: also recruits, recently arrived from
England, were generally stationed here, although a sad mortality
was the invariable result, on account of the numerous marshes and
superabundant foliage which surround the place; its situation being
scarcely above the level of the river at certain periods of the year.
At present the only troops stationed here are--a detachment of Native
Foot Artillery, and the 14th Regiment Native Infantry; for owing to the
demand for Europeans in our extended North-Western frontier, a regiment
of our countrymen can hardly be expected to remain here, except as a
temporary measure. When I revisited Berhampore, in August, 1849, I was
informed, that the authorities had given orders that a portion of the
barracks should be put in readiness, for one of the three regiments
which had recently landed at Calcutta from England, the European
barracks having been unoccupied for the last seven or eight years. The
arrival of three regiments at Calcutta, in addition to those already
stationed there, called for some little ingenuity in their disposal;
the monsoon not being over, so as to allow of a march, and some hundred
recruits in addition, being daily expected to land.
Provisions are very cheap here. Berhampore is noted for its ivory and
silk manufactures, specimens of which were brought on board for sale.
It is likewise one of the coal depôts for the river steamers, as well
as one of the principal stations for embarking goods. The coal depôts
are Mirzapore, Benares, Ghazepore, Dinapore, Bar, Monghyr, Colgong,
Rajmahal, Berhampore, and Kutwa. There is a great deal of communication
between this place and Calcutta, which is only 161 miles distant by the
river route, the intercourse being now carried on with great regularity
and speed.
Leaving Berhampore we reached Kulna, which is situated on the right
bank, sixty-four miles from Calcutta. It is a very inconsiderable place.
The native boatmen, on reaching Kulna on their downward course, "rig
out anchors," as it is called; that is to say, they have a frame-work,
which they fill with stones, the weight of which chiefly acts as an
anchor. These primitive anchors are used by the budgerows, and all the
native boats, with the exception of the pinnace, which has its regular
iron anchor. On nearing the Hoogly, the boatmen meet the bore, or tide,
coming up with great violence against the stream. The banks being
extremely narrow here, cause such a swell, that as it crosses from bank
to bank, or dashes alongside, it upsets all the boats that come within
its influence. By keeping in the middle of the stream, with the prow
straight to the bore, a boat may remain safe from an upset.
We made but a short stay at Kulna, and were soon on our way to Hoogly,
which is situated on the west side of the river of the same name, or
more properly speaking, the Bhauguretty. It is twenty-eight miles from
Fort William. Hoogly, like several of the large towns on the Ganges,
was for a time the capital of Bengal. It is supposed to have been
founded by the Portuguese, about the year 1538. They fortified and
greatly improved the city, which soon became so important a mart of
commerce, as to excite the jealousy of Shah Jehan, who took it after
a siege of three months. During this siege, it is said that more than
5,000 of the Portuguese were killed or taken prisoners, and the most
beautiful of the girls were sent to Agra, to grace the imperial harem.
Shah Jehan now made it the principal port, and gave permission to the
Dutch and English to build some factories, which soon became very
prosperous.
The English, whose factory was situated in the town, had a body of
about twenty soldiers to protect their property; but some disputes
having arisen with the imperial government, the British quietly
procured a detachment of 400 soldiers, who were landed from some
men-of-war which came from Madras. The Nawab was alarmed at these
proceedings, and brought up a large military reinforcement. A conflict
ensued, in which Admiral Nicholson opened a cannonade from his
men-of-war, fired the city, and, unfortunately, burnt not only 500
native houses, but destroyed the factory, which contained goods to the
amount of about £300,000 sterling. The governor was terrified, and
offered to indemnify the English for all the damage which they had
sustained; but the Nawab not only refused to give his assent to this,
but was so incensed that he issued orders for the confiscation of all
the English factories and property. He was at that time at Dacca, and
dispatched a body of men to expel the British from Hoogly. Just before
their arrival, however, the English had withdrawn to Calcutta with all
their property. The Nawab soon after relented, and requested their
return, which they refused, but obtained permission to establish the
factory at Calcutta.
After continued intestine disputes and constant jarring with the
English, the latter took possession of Hoogly in 1757. Since that time
various political changes were effected in the local government; but,
in 1765, the East India Company were appointed, by the Emperor of
Delhi, to be his dewans or collectors of revenues for Bengal, Bahar,
and Orissa, on the condition of his receiving from them an indemnity of
nine lakhs of rupees, or £90,000 per annum.
Ever since that time the importance of Hoogly has declined. The British
government made Calcutta the chief port; in consequence of which all
the trade has been concentrated there.
The French, Dutch, Portuguese and Danes, had formerly each a factory
here.
In going down the river the tide and the bore are first felt. A mile
beyond Hoogly, is Chinsurah, once the principal Dutch settlement in
the East Indies; it is also on the right bank of the river, about
twenty-four miles above Calcutta. The Dutch had a factory here as early
as 1656. More wary than the English, the Dutch, on receiving permission
from Shah Jehan to establish a factory, built it at Chinsurah, about
a couple of miles from Hoogly; and, as they employed natives as well
as Dutch, they soon formed a considerable settlement. In consequence
of the rebellion which broke out in Bengal in 1696, the various
European factories sought and obtained permission from the Nawab to
fortify their several establishments. The fortifications constructed
by the Dutch were of a very superior character; and, being on the most
amicable terms with the government, they quietly aided the authorities
in re-capturing Hoogly, which had fallen into the hands of the rebels.
This procured them great favour from the government, which granted
them fresh privileges. In 1769, however, Chinsurah was blockaded by
the Nawab's forces, to compel payment of arrears of duties. It was
subsequently taken by the British, to whom it now belongs.
The appearance of the town, as might be expected from the national
character of the Dutch, is extremely neat. The houses, generally
speaking, are white, and have Venetians and pretty green verandahs
running round them. Some barracks have been erected of late years for
European troops. In August, 1849, the 87th Royal Irish Fusiliers were
sent here, as there was no room for them at the time, either at Fort
William or at Dum-Dum.
Proceeding three miles further, we came to Chandernagore, the principal
French settlement in Bengal, on the right bank of the river. Its
situation is far preferable to Calcutta in every respect. Like the
old Dutch settlement, it forms a striking contrast to the Hindoo and
Mahomedan cities. The houses look beautifully clean and white, with
green Venetians, and a sort of colonnade in front. The roofs are flat,
and the inmates frequently resort there in the cool of the day. The
town is surrounded by gardens, and groves of trees. The factory was
established a few years later than that of the Dutch, and like it was
fortified. It was extremely flourishing; and the fort contained a
garrison of about 300 soldiers, and a good train of artillery. At this
time, 1757, Admiral Watson and Colonel Clive took it from the French
by force of arms, having brought three or four sixty-four and sixty
gun-ships before the place, though nothing beyond a large gun-boat can
now approach the town.
The French are allowed to have a certain number of chests of opium,
at the average of the sales. Should the opium afterwards fall in
price, they may return it; but should it advance the profit is theirs.
The French Consul does not reside here, but at Calcutta. The local
government is carried on by nineteen functionaries; and the stranger
generally meets with much hospitality and courtesy.
Three miles further down the river is Ishapore, the site of the
government gunpowder works; and about five miles lower still, is
Barrackpore, a military station, fifteen miles from Calcutta, with
a good road between them. It is the head-quarters of the Presidency
Division. At present it contains five regiments of Native Infantry;
having formerly six quartered here. The cantonments are on the left
bank of the Hoogly, and directly opposite to Serampore. The artillery
belonging to this division is stationed at Dum-Dum, about seven miles
from Calcutta.
The Governor-General has a country residence here, in the midst of
a park and grounds, which are laid out, with much taste, in walks,
drives, and gardens. The view from the park is very beautiful, as it
comprises a most magnificent reach in the river. It formerly contained
a menagerie, abounding in tigers and wild animals of all kinds, snakes,
birds, etc.; but this is no longer kept up. There is a fine mausoleum
in the park, erected by Lord Minto, while Governor-General, in memory
of the officers who fell in Java and the Mauritius. The Marquis
Wellesley intended to build a palace at Barrackpore, which was to
rival his splendid residence at Calcutta; but he was deterred by the
home-government. Lord Auckland established a Native school here, and
left funds for its endowment. There is also a neat church.
In 1824, Barrackpore was the scene of a mutiny in the Native Infantry
corps stationed there, who refused to march to the Burmese territory,
in consequence of a deficiency of draught cattle. At the hour of
parade, the 47th Regt. Native Infantry refused to turn out. The
European officers tried every art and stratagem to overcome the mutiny,
which spread to two other corps. Two regiments which were stationed
at Calcutta were instantly summoned. The mutineers were drawn up on
parade, and some guns placed in their rear. The officers again made
every attempt to reduce them to obedience; but the men remaining
obdurate, the guns were opened, and made a sad havoc among them. The
ringleaders were put to death; others too were killed; and not a few
were drowned in trying to escape by swimming across the river.
Serampore, which lies opposite to Barrackpore, was for many years a
Danish settlement; the Danes having established a factory here, about
the same time when the English, French and Dutch founded theirs, higher
up the river. During the war between England and Denmark, in 1807,
Serampore was taken by the Company, who subsequently restored it to
its former possessors. On the 22nd of February, 1845, a treaty or deed
of sale was signed between the Danish and British East India Company's
governments, by which Serampore was conveyed to the latter power for
the sum of £125,000; the returns for many years previously had not met
the expenses, and it was merely held for commercial purposes. It still
carries on an unimportant trade both with Europe and China.
Serampore was long celebrated as a missionary station, when the Danish
colony flourished here; for no missionaries were allowed to reside
in any part of the Bengal Presidency, except at Serampore. At that
time no missionary dared venture to open his lips, or even to shew
his face in Calcutta; whereas now there are above fifty missionaries,
including those at Bishop's college, Howrah and Dum-Dum; whilst at
Serampore there are only three, and one of these is a Roman Catholic.
In the whole of the Bengal Presidency, there are one hundred and
sixty-three, whose mission it is to teach the Christian religion. Of
this number, however, including the Bishop, only seventy belong to
the Ecclesiastical establishment, the other ninety-three being Roman
Catholics, Armenians, and Greeks. The period of which I am speaking,
is January, 1853. Forty-six years earlier, there were only ten
missionaries in Bengal.
Serampore presents a similar appearance to Chandernagore, in regard
to the extreme neatness and simplicity of the buildings. In both,
the houses are white, with flat roofs, and furnished with verandahs
and Venetian blinds. The church is very handsome. The town is not
fortified; but a battery is drawn up near the flagstaff.
Midway between Barrackpore and Calcutta, we passed Dum-Dum. The
mess-house belonging to the artillery, is considered the finest and
largest in India. At present there is only one company of European and
three companies of Native Artillery quartered here; this scientific and
most efficient branch of the service being much needed on our lately
extended frontier. There is here a remarkably fine cannon-foundery,
where twelve brass guns may be bored at the same time. The iron guns
are brought from Europe. All the arrangements, machinery and works, are
of the first order. The Elephant Battery is most ingenious, and these
noble animals perform their work with admirable precision and effect.
The young officer, on his arrival from England, receives here a course
of instruction not exceeding a twelvemonth in duration, before he joins
his regiment. The apartments of the officers are very handsome and
comfortable.
There is a monument at Dum-Dum, to the memory of the late Colonel T.D.
Pearse, who died here in 1789.
After quitting Dum-Dum, we passed the cannon foundery, which is at
Cossipore, about half a mile from the town. It is pleasantly situated
on the banks; and there are many fine houses belonging to the merchants
of the city, who come here to enjoy some little relaxation, after the
fatigues and anxieties inseparable from money-getting.
On the 8th of June, 1846, at ten o'clock in the morning, we
anchored off Garden Reach, Calcutta, where I bade adieu to the
accommodation-boat, "Soorma," and its civil commander and officers, and
by noon was domiciled in Spence's hotel.
During my short stay at Calcutta, I received much kindness and
hospitality from the arch-deacon (now Bishop of Madras), and Mrs.
Dealtry, Professor and Mrs. Weidemann, Mr. and Mrs. Murray Gladstone,
and Mr. William Abbott. I must reserve till the next chapter the fruits
of my four several visits to this city, on my passage to and from
Europe.