FESTIVITIES AT SCUTARI AND VISITS TO FRENCH HOSPITALS.
A grand Oriental summer banquet--The first halt--Start afresh--The
Pacha’s harem--Numerous visits--A brilliant cavalcade--Revolt among
the horses--The Governor’s reception--A Turkish
kitchen--Hand-in-hand--Roasted lambs _à la Turque_--Gigantic bill
of fare--Wine--Vitellius and the Grecian crayfish--Grand
entertainment--List of guests--Return home--Politeness of the
Pacha--Preparations for my return to the Crimea--Visit to the
French hospitals--Dr. Pincoff--Great Hospital of Pera--Cordial
reception--Nature of the arrangements.
Previous to entering upon this second campaign, in which my life was
daily likely to be more or less in danger, my gastronomic star was,
unawares to me, shining brightly. An unexpected invitation arrived from
the Pacha of Scutari to a grand Oriental summer banquet, to which not
less than eighty guests were invited. Lord W. Paulet was to be the
chairman. The day arrived, we all met at head-quarters, and the
principal authorities were present. Lord W. Paulet soon joined us; we
started, forming a very formidable and brilliant cavalcade, everybody
being in full costume. The Pacha had sent a mounted escort to accompany
us, consisting of six cavaliers. Our first halt was at Ismail Pacha’s,
who received us cordially at his pretty kiosque. He spoke excellent
French, and invited us to be seated in his large and elegantly-furnished
drawing-room, where a chibouque was presented to each guest, with the
indispensable Turkish thimble-cup of coffee. We had a very interesting
conversation with the Pacha about the war, and his opinion upon it; also
a short review of Paris and London, as he had visited both.
We then walked under very delightful foliage, where fountains were
playing, Asiatic and aquatic flowers growing--plants of rare
beauty--orange and lemon trees, &c. We all fancied we had arrived at our
destination, when the Pacha’s horse was brought into the yard where ours
had been left. The signal was given: we all mounted, and started afresh.
A very coquettish square kiosque erected in the garden, and well
latticed round, seemed to be very animated within. It was the Pacha’s
harem, from whence no doubt the imprisoned odalisques were enjoying the
lively scene passing in the yard, by peeping, not exactly _à la_ Peeping
Tom, but from behind the railings, or, more properly speaking, lattice.
Headed by the Pacha and suite, with Lord W. Paulet, Major Sillery, &c.,
we again started. In ten minutes we reached another kiosque, not by any
means so luxurious as the first. We alighted, and were received in the
garden by Hiera Bey, to whom the place belonged. In the drawing-room the
same ceremony of chibouques and coffee was performed. The Bey and his
suite joined our party, and we went to the residence of another pacha,
where the same ceremony was about to be renewed, but to which we
unanimously objected. His pachaship and suite, altogether about twelve
persons, also joined us, thus doubling the number of our cavalcade,
which, as we passed along the narrow lane bordered on either side by
thick and high edges, had the appearance of an immense serpent stealing
through the grass about to swallow its prey: the head being represented
by the Oriental corps and costume, admirably suited the effect I have
described. Prey was indeed in store for the imaginary serpent. Of the
truth of this my reader will be able to judge by the bill of fare, which
I carefully preserved, as one of my first Oriental culinary
reminiscences.
The sound of strange instruments informed us that we were near our
destination. A military band of about fifty were playing Oriental airs,
half wild, half melodious. We were conducted through a garden towards an
elegant _maison de plaisance_, leaving the horses at the entrance; some
of them, not being partial to music, began fighting and kicking. It took
nearly an hour to pacify them and make them behave themselves. They were
horses of different nations, and this was probably the reason why they
could not agree.
Several were lost, which gave a little extra occupation to the Asiatic
palfreniers. By this time we had all been received by the Governor of
Asia Minor and his numerous friends, who were sitting upon divans in the
open air, smoking chibouques. We were invited to do the same, which we
did, forming a circle of considerable circumference. A regular forest of
long chibouques was brought towards us, and one was presented to each
guest. We were thus, for the third time, obliged to enjoy this
everlasting Oriental splendour; but in lieu of coffee, raki was
introduced, a liquor somewhat similar to perfumed gin, or the French
absinthe. It more particularly resembles the latter, as it turns white
when mixed with water. It is much drunk in Turkey--usually before
dinner. Many prefer it neat, but it is very intoxicating. The usual
salutations having been exchanged, we all drank, and the glasses were
taken away by slaves.
After smoking another half-hour, I went to Mr. Dixon, Lord W. Paulet’s
dragoman, and asked him to request permission of the Pacha for me to see
the kitchen. As I knew that two whole sheep and two lambs were to be
roasted, I felt anxious to see the process. He had no sooner mentioned
my wish than the Pacha rose, and, offering me his hand, conducted me
towards the place where the sacrifice was being consummated. We were
thus again, as at Scutari, hand-in-hand, if not hand-and-glove. About
forty cooks were at work preparing the dinner. I felt much interested in
their primitive way of roasting large pieces, which can only be equalled
by gas. With the intestines they make a kind of black pudding, sausages,
and rolls of tripe, with which they surround the neck of the animal:
they have also skewers of tripe and liver, heart, &c., tied on each side
of the haunch. The Pacha ordered some to be cut off for me to taste,
which I did with great gusto, and really much approved of their sound
judgment in turning everything to advantage, and making additional
dishes of what we civilized people so cleverly throw away. It was so
good, that I begged the Pacha to send a small dish up for Lord W. Paulet
and a few others to taste, as it was best while very hot. It had a
peculiar aromatic taste which imparts a delicate flavour, and was very
palatable.
The liver, which we of course use, was cut into small portions, and
mixed with the intestines. The lambs were dressed in the same way, and
were still more delicate: they were so perfectly roasted, that every
part of the animals was the colour of a lump of gold.
ORIENTAL WAY OF ROASTING SHEEP AND LAMBS WHOLE,
À LA TURQUE.
Though a primitive method, it is far from being a bad one. About a
hundredweight of wood is set on fire in an open place, yard,
kitchen, or elsewhere, and when burnt the ashes are piled up
pyramidically to about the length of the lamb. Four stones, about a
foot high, are then placed two at each end, and about eighteen
inches from the fire; the lambs are spitted, head and all, upon a
long piece of wood, with a rough handle similar to that of a
barrel-organ. They are then put down; each one being turned by one
man, who now and then moves the ashes to revive the fire, at the
same time basting the lambs with a bunch of feathers dipped in oil.
A pan should be placed underneath to receive the fat. This was on
this occasion omitted. Each lamb took about three hours doing by
that slow process; but I must repeat, they were done to perfection,
and worthy of the attention of the greatest epicure.
The productions of the other culinary dainties are duly noticed in the
following gigantic bill of fare.
Cavvat alle sis ka-babby
Yeade ra-dash yor nesee
Terbelee partsha
Vegetables.
Dolmah asmae a back
Ahgem ka back yah ne see
Arabertan ham yersee
Ser kresheur kap a massee
Patlezan dol massee
Cavarta yah prai il ha doline
Bag silk massee
Guvetts tu lur soo
Eskaille keftee
Pelaffee
Puff borree
Adgec ah med borro
Bad am lee charsa
Confiture.
Baclava
Ecmeck card aikae
Yur mur tarla lock moh
Kavanne
Hi varta cleasee
Touh cleuksu
Evgbet pupered by Jorept Zetala
Parson fruture
Peti parta ougrah
Cutalette
Pura patat assause espariol
Crab miones
Puopon mohoness
Cram alla vanneil
Cram ah coffee
Vn espeak derubea
Eurotee despadree
Glass oh citrone
Glass alla cream
Turk cook mahamet
Prissole
Sarmagoll
Cheverma cugickabby
Surmah pelich ka-babby
Capammah ordack parlazee
Coccorrets ka-babby
Fassula illa tuge ka-babby
Cavoticla ahmet ka-babby
Kahoat he la sahe slam ka-babby
Kultug dol massy
Tuga yaha ne see
Sham keflasee
Rahat lokoum
Amidst a clump of trees, situated on a plot of grass, and though so
close at hand, quite out of sight, a large marquee had been erected,
under which an elegant banqueting-table was covered with choice fruits,
flowers, pastry, valuable ornaments, and sweets of all kinds. Each guest
had his place numbered. I was fortunately near the centre, facing the
chairman, and only two from the worthy host. The _tout ensemble_ was
charming: the various costumes, profusion of light, and the Turkish
music, gave such a novel feature to this liberal entertainment, that,
for the first time, I began to understand the reality of the Oriental
luxury so much vaunted by poets.
Wine, though abominated by the Moslem, flowed in profusion. Excellent
Bordeaux, Champagne, Madeira, &c., was freely passed round and quaffed
with gusto, to the number, I should say, of several gross of bottles.
The children of the Crescent drank as freely as ourselves. The sheep and
lambs, dressed up whole, were placed upon the table, and every guest
helped himself _à la Turque_. The meat was pulled from the animal by the
Hadji Bachi, with his fingers, in presence of the company, placed in a
large dish, and handed round to the gourmets, who also helped themselves
with their fingers. The lamb was admirable; an Apicius would have gone
to Turkey to dine, had he known such delicacies were to be obtained
there. That worthy left Rome in a vessel, specially chartered by him, to
go to Greece, in order to obtain some crayfish rumoured to be larger
than any Rome could produce. On arriving, he found they were only the
same. He asked the fisherman, who had been some time expecting him,
“Have you never caught larger crayfish than that?”
“No, signor, never!” was the reply.
Rubbing his hands with delight, he ordered the captain to sail back at
once, saying, “I have left some at home larger than these, and they will
be spoiled if the wind is not in our favour.”[17]
The other dishes were eaten in the European fashion, with knives and
forks. The fête was under the management of a gentleman I had the
pleasure of knowing well, Mr. Ralli, a large proprietor at Kadikoi and a
Greek merchant, who, to oblige the Pacha, took upon himself all the
responsibility of carrying out his excellency’s liberal ideas.
London, or even Paris, could not have produced more effect or given more
_éclat_ to the entertainment, though, of course, in a different style.
Healths were proposed, and toasts given. The speeches were short, but to
the purpose. The music was very original; the fireworks were extremely
bad, and the illuminations very tenebrous.
_Names of Guests at the Dinner given by the Pacha of
Scutari._--Brigadier-General Lord William Paulet; Hon. Captain
Macdonald; Captain Seager; Major Sillery; Major Morris; Dr. Rowdon,
civil surgeon, late professor of anatomy at Middlesex Hospital; W.
Heaton, Esq., medical staff; Richard Ambler, Esq.; J. S. Robertson,
Esq., purveyor-general to the forces; Rev. George Lawless, senior
chaplain; Rev. Hugh Drennan, chaplain; Rev. W. Fergusson,
chaplain;--Hawkes, Esq., barrister-at-law; Eustatio S. Ralli, Esq.,
sen., Greek merchant; Etienne Eustatio Ralli, jun., Esq.;--Dixon, Esq.,
first-class interpreter to Lord William Paulet;[18] Monsieur Soyer, &c.
&c. Indisposition prevented the attendance of his Excellency Omer Pacha.
After five hours of eating and drinking, we returned thanks to our
illustrious host, and rose to retire. He accompanied us as far as his
Scutari residence. The evening was very dark, and the horses were mixed
together, so that we had some trouble in finding our own. At length we
started. I was the last to quit his pachaship. As I lived in
Cambridge-street, I was a near neighbour of his, and he kindly escorted
me to my door, followed by his men bearing lanterns. He would not leave
me till the door was opened, and I had entered the house. We then
parted, and I shall never forget the generous reception I received from
our worthy Mussulman ally, the governor of Asia Minor.
Before my departure, I took Lord W. Paulet, Dr. Cumming, Mr. Robertson,
and Miss Nightingale’s orders, which were numerous; said farewell to
all, and left everything in a most satisfactory state. I requested
Sergeant Thompson to send me a weekly report of the proceedings in the
kitchens at the various hospitals. Mr. Robertson, the purveyor-in-chief,
also promised to keep a sharp look-out himself, and acquaint me with
anything important which might occur. I spent a few days with Dr.
Humphrey at Kululee Hospital, then under the admirable management of
Miss E. Hutton and the Sisters of Charity. Mr. and Mrs. Bracebridge,
after exerting themselves to the utmost, during the hardest time of all,
in the Scutari hospitals, had left for England: important family
affairs, I believe, required their presence at home. Miss Nightingale
had quite recovered; and she proposed to visit the Crimea again in less
than a month, and had requested me to attend to various matters before
she arrived. Of these, as they were numerous, I made a list, saying, “I
shall be happy to attend to your commissions even if you tripled the
number.” As my twelve field-stoves had been sent to the Crimea, I knew
that my time would be principally taken up by field-cookery, and that I
should only be able to give a casual look through the various hospitals.
I was anxious to obtain an insight into the culinary arrangements and
system of management in the French hospitals. This I effected by the aid
of Dr. Pincoff, who had frequently brought French doctors to visit my
kitchens, and taste my new diets--of which they seemed to approve. Some
of them would say, “They are too good and expensive for our hospital;”
others, “Your diets are excellent; but our soldiers would not like them,
not being used to that kind of food.” This, probably, might at the
commencement have been the case; but a man soon gets accustomed to a
good thing. I had tried this upon several hundred English soldiers, who
never refused it, but, on the contrary, did not like to return to the
old system of diets. I had not the slightest doubt they would like the
change, but it could not be effected. At all events, this increased my
curiosity. Dr. Pincoff, a friend, and myself, determined to go at six
o’clock in the morning (the time of their first rounds) to visit the
Great Hospital of Pera.
This early hour of visiting patients I cannot but give my disapproval
of, as it is the time they are likely to repose, or at all events feel
more languid than any other part of the night; which disturbance reminds
me of the anxious servant, who being requested by his master to awake
him at an early hour, knocked at his room-door four or five times during
the night to apprise him of the number of hours he had left for sleep.
Indeed, even more than this, they actually ask the patients, at that
early hour, what they would like for dinner?--the patient, instead of
the doctor, prescribing. We arrived at half-past five A.M., through a
burning sun, which I consider, at that hour and that time of year, more
oppressive in the East than at ten, eleven, or even twelve in the day,
when the sea-breeze refreshes the Oriental atmosphere. We were
immediately introduced to the medical gentleman on duty, who had just
commenced his rounds. He was attended by two orderlies and a Sister of
Charity; one of the former carried a tray, upon which the Sister seemed
to have placed articles of food belonging to her department: she was
also noting down on a tablet the orders of the doctor as to a few
articles of extra diet. We watched the proceedings closely, which lasted
nearly an hour: each doctor had two wards to attend, and each ward
contained about sixty patients.
Having made several remarks on the various subjects to the doctor, and
thanked him for his attention, I promised to forward him a book of the
new dietaries I had so successfully introduced in the hospital at
Scutari. Though far from anticipating that any eminent member of the
French faculty would change his system, and adopt mine in preference to
the French medical _régime_, still, as I have learnt a great deal from
the system pursued in the French hospitals, I should feel very proud if
any of my receipts proved acceptable. In fact, I should be delighted to
show my gratitude for the generous reception afforded me when I applied
for leave to visit the French hospitals upon my passage through France
on my way to the Crimea.
The order with which all was carried on was admirable. Without the
slightest intention of making myself officious in this matter, I cannot
help remarking, that the broths and tisanes given to the patients were
rather of a thinnish nature, and given in much larger quantities than by
the English doctors to patients affected with similar diseases;--my
opinion on the subject being, that for the man who has lived too well, a
close and light diet is most beneficial, his blood being too rich; while
the debilitated soldier’s blood requires regenerating: which caused me
to submit succulent diets for dysentery and diarrhœa, and cooling
ones for fever.