THE SCUTARI MISSION ACCOMPLISHED.
The extra-diet kitchens closed--One large kitchen--Plan for keeping
the dinners hot--General satisfaction--The General
Hospital--Summons to Kululee--Labours there--Palace and Hyder Pacha
Hospitals--Ordered to proceed to the Crimea--Model
field-stove--Conversation with Lord W. Paulet--A new
Purveyor-in-chief--Companions for the voyage to the Crimea--An
evening at Dr. Macgregor’s--Return home--A midnight scene--The
dying soldier--The guardian angel--Mr. Robertson, the new
purveyor--Final tour of inspection--General Vivian and his
aide-de-camp--Parting testimony.
A few days afterwards, I closed all the extra-diet kitchens, with the
exception of the one under the direction of Miss Nightingale, and
another under the direction of Dr. Taylor, having discharged about
twenty soldier cooks, who consumed daily ten times more fuel than was
required; this at the same time much deteriorated the quality of the
extra diets, which required the greatest attention as regarded the
regulation of the heat. We prepared everything in the one large
kitchen--viz., breakfast, dinner, tea, extra-diets, the cooking for the
orderlies, &c., included. Having got all under my own eye, I placed two
civilian cooks in charge of the extra-diets, with six soldiers to assist
them, who might at the same time be instructed, instead of the twelve
before required--thus simplifying the whole process.
The only difficulty that remained was, how to send the dinners hot to
the various wards, on account of the distance being so great. Miss
Nightingale submitted a very excellent plan, which was adopted with
success. It is very similar to that in use in the French hospitals, with
this difference, that we introduced double cases in which to carry
boiling water, thus keeping the contents of the several divisions hot
much longer. Two of these cases were sufficient for each ward, and
after they had been in use for a week, no establishment could be in
better order. Had there been room in the hospital we could have
accommodated as many more patients with the greatest ease, the receipts
being regulated by weight and measure, from an ounce for certain
articles, to seven or eight cwt. for others. I must also observe, in
thanking Mr. Milton, the purveyor, that he rendered me the full amount
of assistance he had promised, and without such powerful aid, as well as
that of Mr. Tucker, it would have been impossible for me to have made so
much progress in so short a period.
In the first place, the provisions were improved--the old fowls got
unexpectedly younger, and the fuel was better. I was thus perfectly
satisfied, and so was everybody else--medical officers as well as
patients. As soon as the alterations at the General Hospital were
completed, and which made a very good kitchen, being clean, light, and
commodious, instead of being ill-adapted for the purpose, as I at first
found it, I paid a second visit to Doctor Lawson, the chief medical
officer of this hospital. I then tried some experiments before him and
numerous other doctors similar to those I had previously made at the
Barrack Hospital, and with the same success; and I must say, as far as
the extra diet went, in justice to Doctor O’Flaherty, the
under-superintendent, with a great deal less trouble than I experienced
at the Barrack Hospital; Doctor O’Flaherty having carefully watched over
and disposed of that very important department. I next went to Kululee,
then in charge of the new lady manager, Miss Hutton, who had replaced
Miss Stanley. I received the following letter from that lady, and at
once placed myself at her disposal.
KULULEE HOSPITAL, _April, 14th, 1855_.
MONSIEUR,--I hear that you are on the point of leaving Scutari.
When may we hope that you will come to Kululee? A few days of your
instruction and superintendence might effect more good than I can
express.
I am, yours, &c.,
EMILY HUTTON.
The day after the receipt of this I went to Kululee, where I had the
pleasure of seeing Miss Hutton for the first time, and met with a most
gracious reception from that lady and her assistants. We next visited
the General Hospital upon the heights, where I was introduced to the
matron and the Irish Sisters of Charity. These ladies were very anxious
to obtain some utensils and have a new extra-diet kitchen built. Captain
Gordon’s assistant made a small sketch of the place, and undertook to
have it done at once, being aware of its necessity. I left quite
satisfied that it would be immediately put in execution.
It only remained for me to give a list of the utensils required to the
purveyor-in-chief; and shortly after, in company with that gentleman, I
paid another visit to the hospital, where, thanks to his attention, they
had a most effective kitchen. I regretted that the large kitchen for the
convalescent belonged to the Turkish authorities, as it could not be
altered to my liking. Nothing could be altered without an order from the
Turkish officials, and to obtain this, would have taken as long a time
as the duration of the war. Upon leaving the General Hospital, we
visited the Barrack Hospital, where we found every department
perfect--the orders given upon our former visit with Lady Stratford de
Redcliffe having been carried out to the letter. I was now introduced to
Doctor Humphrey, who had been appointed in lieu of another medical
gentleman. He accompanied us round the hospital, and kindly offered me a
bed for the night, which I accepted--having to cook for the patients the
next morning, as well as to instruct some soldier-cooks who were at the
convalescent hospital, called the Riding School. The next day I was in
full action, and received visits from every doctor and Sister of
Charity, who all approved of the diets, as well as my new teapot, in
which I made in the space of ten minutes, out of the ration tea, enough
strong tea for about thirty persons; thus effecting a saving of at least
ten per cent. At the desire of Miss Hutton, I afterwards sent a civilian
cook to the Barrack Hospital, to carry out the system, and to set the
various kitchen departments in order. But I must observe in full
justice to that lady, who had succeeded Miss Stanley, that since my last
visit to these hospitals, every department under her care was so much
improved that hardly anything was required to perfect them. Although the
hospitals were full of patients, the lady assistants who attended this
duty appeared to devote their utmost energies to the benevolent and
humane cause for which they had left their native homes.
Thence I went to the Palace Hospital, Hyder Pacha, and having had a new
kitchen built for the use of the officers, placed a good civilian cook
in it, and with the assent and assistance of Doctors Cumming and
M’Elray, the doctor-in-chief, composed a bill of fare for their mess.
Having arranged everything in the various hospitals to my satisfaction,
I was honoured by several visits from Lady Stratford de Redcliffe, who
expressed her own and Lord Stratford’s approbation of my management, and
both afterwards took a most lively interest in the success of my
proceedings. I then was requested by Lord Panmure to proceed to the
Crimea for the same purpose, and also to try and improve the system of
camp cookery for the soldiers. I therefore informed Lord William Paulet
of my anticipated departure for the seat of war, showing him, at the
same time, my small model field stove. Having explained its principle,
he expressed his approval of its simplicity. I said, “I expect ten of
those stoves, which, upon arrival, I wish to have forwarded to the
Crimea. I have managed to make use of the Turkish coppers at the
hospital, which answer perfectly well, and of the existence of which I
was not aware before leaving England. They are the same as those adopted
in the hospital at Smyrna, and, although too large for camp use, would
do very well for my trial before the Crimean authorities. If these
stoves are approved of, those for the army on march or in camp can be
made thus--viz., two for a company, both of which can be carried on the
back of one mule, with sufficient wood inside for two days. When on
march, they will cook either under cover or in the open air, and in all
weathers, and the quantity of fuel required will be a mere trifle
compared with the present consumption. Thus you perceive, my lord, that
two small ones will cook for a full company of a hundred or a hundred
and twenty men, though I am aware a company seldom exceeds a hundred in
number. This will not matter much; and it is better to have them too
large than too small. We can also have smaller ones for picket and
outpost duty.”
“You are right, Monsieur Soyer; and I must say your plan appears very
sensible and well conceived. I heartily wish you the same success in the
Crimea that you have met with here.”
“In order to prevent any inconvenience from my departure from the
hospital, I will put all in good trim, and leave the whole under the
superintendence of a corporal who is now well acquainted with my system;
and I shall request several doctors to send occasionally for soup,
broth, pudding, &c., unknown to the cook, to see if any alteration takes
place after my departure; and perhaps your lordship would oblige me by
doing the same. This will make them attentive to the proportions
required and the proper management of the cooking.”
“I assure you I often send for a basin of the soldiers’ soup for my
lunch, it is so very good.”
“I do not think you will find any difference after my departure,
although, many persons say that it is all very well so long as I am
here, but that as soon as my back is turned it will be as bad as ever.
Colonel Dennis, in particular, will not be persuaded; I will vouch for
the contrary, as my receipts are all done by weight and measure, and
that causes much less trouble. Before I came they had never done
working, and all for want of a proper system of management. Doctor
Cumming and myself have talked over the subject, and we have no fear of
the result. The only thing required is for the serjeant in charge to see
all properly attended to in the morning.”
“I shall be happy to give you a letter to Lord Raglan, with whom I
suppose you are acquainted.”
“I am; but it is above twelve years since I had the pleasure of seeing
his lordship, and that was at the Reform Club; therefore a letter from
your lordship, in addition to one from the Minister-at-War, cannot fail
to be very acceptable.”
“It shall be ready for you to-morrow morning. By the way, I hope you do
not intend to go before the new purveyor-in-chief comes. It is most
important that you should see him.”
“Indeed! I was not aware that we were to have a new purveyor-in-chief. I
very much regret it--but is Mr. Milton going?”
“Of course he is: he only came out here till another could be appointed.
He cannot remain, as he holds a very important appointment at the
War-Office, and his presence is required in London. I should advise you
to see him, and mention about your stoves. He will forward them to
Balaklava for you.”
“I will do so, my lord. I much regret taking up so much of your valuable
time.”
“Do not mention that, Monsieur Soyer. This is business, and to my mind
of great importance.”
“A fresh tribulation!” thought I; “a new purveyor-in-chief, who, in my
absence, may upset everything I have done!” I went immediately to Miss
Nightingale, to inquire whether she had heard of this change. I met Mr.
Bracebridge there, and he told me that he had known it for some time. He
informed me that Miss Nightingale and himself were going to the Crimea,
and proposed that we should all start together. I, of course, was much
pleased at the news, as I knew that Miss Nightingale would be of great
assistance to me in the hospitals in the Crimea. I then promised Mr.
Bracebridge to be ready on the day fixed for our departure. Mr.
Bracebridge said, “Miss Nightingale is engaged at present. Do you wish
to see her?”
“No; I am going to Mr. Milton, to speak about the stoves I mentioned the
other day, and to inquire when the new purveyor-in-chief is coming.”
“Oh, I can tell you that--he will be here to-morrow without fail.”
“That will do nicely. We shall just have time to become acquainted, and
settle everything before my departure to the seat of war.”
I found Mr. Milton preparing for his departure.
“Well, Monsieur Soyer, have you any message for London?” said he, with a
jovial face and a smile.
“It is with great regret that I have just heard of your intended
departure, and the arrival of a new purveyor-in-chief.”
“I assure you that I have had quite enough of Scutari and its bother,
and much prefer the London fog to the bright sun of the East and its
accessory annoyances. The fact is, I was only here _pro tem._, till some
one could be permanently appointed, but I did not expect to be recalled
so early. Yesterday I received my _feuille de route_, as you call it in
French, from the War Office. I hope to have the pleasure of introducing
you to Mr. Robertson, my successor, to-morrow, and the day after I shall
probably be off.”
“I shall start a few days after you, but not exactly in the same
direction.”
“Where are you going, Monsieur Soyer?”
“Why, are you not aware that Miss Nightingale, Mr. Bracebridge, and
myself are going on Saturday next to the Crimea?”
“Oh, that’s right! Some one was saying you would not go to the camp.”
“What could make them say so? Not fear on my part--for of that I never
dream; besides, our lives are more in danger here in the hospital than
in the open air. The observation I made to the Minister-at-War,
respecting the camp, was this,--that unless I could invent a cooking
apparatus for the army to supersede the tin kettles I had seen at
Chobham, it would be useless to attempt to teach the men to cook. An
officer who happened to be present observed, ‘You’re right. Monsieur
Soyer; they appear very unfit for a heavy company.--I have remarked that
myself.’ By-the-bye, have you seen the French canteens--_marmites_, as
they call them? They are very superior, and much larger than ours,
besides being made of better metal. One soldier is, however, required
to cook for every sixteen men with them, and they present the same
difficulty with respect to open-air cooking.[11] This is especially the
case on a long march--while those stoves, the model of which I had
submitted to the War Office, were quite free from any such
inconvenience.”
“They will be ordered,” said Mr. Milton, “as soon as they are approved
of by the Crimean authorities.”
“I am glad to hear you say so; but my greatest anxiety now, Mr. Milton,
is to see the new purveyor-in-chief, and have a fair understanding with
him, so that during my absence he may not undo what you and I have so
successfully commenced.”
“You may depend upon it that I shall advise him for the best on that
subject,” said Mr. Milton.
The evening was spent cheerfully at Doctor Macgregor’s. The American
clock upon the doctor’s chimney-piece deceived his guests, if not the
doctor, who was at once good-natured, amiable, and uncommonly fond of
anecdote, and, like a true Scotchman, professed an immense deal of
veneration of, and attachment to, his whisky-toddy. “The day,” he used
to say, “is for manual labour, the evening for comfort and sociality;
but, alas! in my case, night and day are the same--I may be called at
any hour; therefore, the longer you favour me with your company, my
friends, the better I shall like it, you may depend.”
We now perceived that the clock was under the powerful influence of the
doctor’s “treatment;” nevertheless, common sense induced us all to rise
and leave, and after a hearty shaking of hands, and no end of good
wishes, we parted. On arriving at the second door, which opened upon one
of the grand avenues of sick and wounded, we retired in a silent and
mournful procession--except the groans of the sufferers, nothing was
heard but the friction of our boots upon the stone floor, already worn
into a kind of groove between the rows of beds upon which lay the sick
and wounded, caused by the constant passing and repassing of the
doctors, Sisters of Mercy, orderlies, and other officials in attendance
upon the patients.
As we turned the angle of the long corridor to the right, we perceived,
at a great distance, a faint light flying from bed to bed, like a
will-o’-the-wisp flickering in a meadow on a summer’s eve, which at last
rested upon one spot; or as a bee sporting from flower to flower, till
it at length lights upon a delicious floral banquet, which the insect
determines not to leave till it has extracted the last drop of honey
from the devoted pistil.
But, alas! as we approached, we perceived our mistake. A group in the
shape of a _silhouette_ unfolded its outline in light shade. As we came
nearer and nearer, the picture burst upon us. A dying soldier was half
reclining upon his bed. Life, you could observe, was fast bidding him
adieu; Death, that implacable deity, was anxiously waiting for his soul
to convey it to its eternal destination.
But stop! near him was a guardian angel, sitting at the foot of his bed,
and most devotedly engaged pencilling down his last wishes to be
despatched to his homely friends or relations. A watch and a few more
trinkets were consigned to the care of the writer; a lighted lamp was
held by another person, and threw a painful yellowish _coloris_ over
that mournful picture, which a Rembrandt alone could have traced, but
which everybody, as long as the world lasts, would have understood,
felt, and admired. It was then near two o’clock in the morning.
[Illustration: MISS. NIGHTINGALE AND THE DYING SOLDIER.]
Approaching, I made inquiries of Miss Nightingale as to the complaint of
her patient, when she replied in French, that the poor fellow was given
up by the doctors, and was not likely to get through the night; “so I
have been engaged noting down his last wishes, in order to forward them
to his relatives.”
The next morning, Miss Nightingale, Mr. Bracebridge, and myself had a
long conversation respecting our plan of operations in the coming
campaign. Having settled everything to our satisfaction, I once more
went round the hospitals; and, upon reaching home, I heard that Mr.
Robertson had arrived. He had been represented to me, by some person or
other, as a very old and infirm man, wearing green spectacles. At the
time I heard this, I was in the company of a very illustrious personage,
who was visiting my kitchen, and he also listened to the serjeant giving
this description, and very justly observed, that for such a fatiguing
situation a young man was required. “Now,” he continued, pointing from
the kitchen door to the building, “observe the tremendous distance it is
from one end of the building to the other. A purveyor should go round
once a-day, independent of the business of his office. I tell you
what--I have found out this much myself, that the head, when properly
screwed on, lasts much longer than the legs; and when both are required
at the same time, there is an additional strain.”
While we were discussing this important subject, in walked Mr. Milton,
accompanied by an old gentleman, as described by the serjeant, and a
third person. To my surprise, Mr. Robertson was not the reverend old
man. He happened to be one of Mr. Robertson’s friends, instead of
himself.[12] Instead of being an old man, I found him the very person
wanted--about thirty years of age--full of vigour and intelligence. In
a short time I was perfectly acquainted with his qualifications for the
office to which he had been appointed--requiring, as I said before, so
much bodily exercise. The few days I had to remain at Scutari enabled us
to come to a perfect understanding.
“Monsieur Soyer,” said Mr. Milton, “I now leave you in very good hands.
I have explained everything to Mr. Robertson respecting your department,
and I am certain he will be kind enough to attend to it in your absence.
I am off for England to-morrow; therefore, fare you well; take care of
yourself in the Crimea. I have also spoken to Mr. Robertson about your
stoves; he will forward them to the Crimea as soon as they arrive.”
“I wish you a pleasant journey, Mr. Milton. I hope to have the pleasure
of seeing you in London.”
Mr. Robertson accompanied me round the various stores, and after passing
all in review, and noting what would be required in future, we parted. I
felt fully convinced that my former efforts would not be destroyed, as I
had at first feared. The next day we went to the General and the Palace
Hospitals and Kululee, and made similar arrangements. I now felt almost
free of the hospitals, though my intention was to run down from the
Crimea now and then to have a look at them, as the least mismanagement
would create confusion. I then requested Lord W. Paulet to devote a few
hours, before my departure, to visiting the other hospitals, and he very
kindly fixed upon that afternoon. Mr. Robertson, Lord W. Paulet, the
Hon. Captain Bourke, his lordship’s aide-de-camp, and myself rode over
to the various hospitals, and I pointed out the improvements I had made,
all of which Lord W. Paulet considered very effective and judicious, and
promised that they should be followed up, referring me at the same time
to Mr. Robertson. “That gentleman,” he said, “is now major-domo in the
purveyor’s department.”
I told Lord W. Paulet that Mr. Robertson and myself had already settled
everything, and we rode back to the Barrack Hospital. Lord W. Paulet
very kindly invited me to dine with him, and I much regretted that time
did not allow of my accepting the invitation, as we had to leave the
next morning, and I wished to see Miss Nightingale and Mr. Bracebridge;
but I promised to return and spend a part of the evening with him, which
I did, and very merrily too. I must say that, in all the transactions
connected with my mission to the Crimea, to no gentleman am I more
indebted than to Lord W. Paulet, whose gracious reception, continued
kindness, and the extreme confidence he placed in me, gave me such
extraordinary encouragement that it greatly tended to my success: a
failure might have been the result, had he treated me otherwise. Lord W.
Paulet gave me the promised letters, and signed the following paper:--
SCUTARI BARRACK HOSPITAL, CONSTANTINOPLE,
_May 1st, 1855_.
TO BRIGADIER-GENERAL LORD WM. PAULET.--Important regulations to
insure for the future a good, clean, wholesome, and nutritious
class of food, and delicate beverages, to be daily produced for the
comfort of the sick and wounded in all the hospitals of the East,
as well as for the standing army, which will prove economical both
in a saving of time, and also a pecuniary sense. Monsieur Soyer
most respectfully solicits the assistance of Brigadier-General Lord
Wm. Paulet in granting the following requisites, which Monsieur
Soyer considers indispensable to carry out the objects of the
important mission conferred on him by the Government of her
Britannic Majesty Queen Victoria the First, and of which his
lordship has already given proofs of his high approval and
satisfaction, as well as his assistance in facilitating the
introduction of a completely new system of diet, which has met with
the approval of Doctor Cumming, the chief medical officer, and
every medical gentleman connected with his staff in the various
English hospitals at Constantinople.
First requisite.--That for every important hospital, a professed
man-cook shall be engaged, with a civilian assistant, instead of
military, as is now the case, and the principal to be under
military rules and regulations.
Second.--That all military men now engaged cooking in the hospitals
and barrack kitchens shall be immediately instructed in the art of
camp-cooking. As they are already acquainted with the plain mode of
cooking, it will only require a few lessons from Monsieur Soyer,
under his new and simple style, to become thoroughly conversant
with this branch of culinary operations, highly essential at the
present crisis, and about which the Right Honourable Lord Panmure,
her Majesty’s Minister-at-War, expressed the greatest anxiety
personally to Monsieur Soyer, on his mission to Scutari, with a
view to disseminating the system throughout the army. Monsieur
Soyer feels assured that if present in the camp for a few weeks he
will be enabled to carry out this important object, at the same
time introducing wholesome and nutritious food made out of the
usual allowances of provisions supplied to the army, so soon as his
field or bivouac stove shall be adopted by the Crimean authorities.
A. SOYER.
Approved. W. PAULET, B.-General, Commanding Troops.
_Scutari, May 1st, 1855._
I then returned my thanks and bade his lordship adieu. Thus terminated
my Scutari duties, which were afterwards carried on to my entire
satisfaction under the direction of Mr. Robertson, and supported by Lord
W. Paulet; later by General Storks, now Sir Henry, who succeeded his
lordship.
Shortly after the opening of my kitchen, I received a visit from General
Vivian and his aide-de-camp, Captain Ramsey. During his visit, Miss
Nightingale entered the kitchen. I then introduced the General to her,
and we had a very animated and interesting conversation relating to
hospital treatment, &c. The General expressed his high gratification at
being introduced to Miss Nightingale, and I then had the honour of
showing him through the hospital, not omitting the other kitchens, where
the cooking was still carried on upon the old system, as I had not had,
in that short space of time, an opportunity to remedy it. The General
and Captain Ramsey expressed their high approval and satisfaction of the
great improvement I had already made in the culinary department of that
monster establishment. I may, perhaps, be pardoned for being vain enough
to quote the gallant General’s remark prior to his leaving my kitchen,
which remark encouraged me so much in the prosecution of my labours. It
was thus:--
“Monsieur Soyer, Miss Nightingale’s name and your own will be for ever
associated in the archives of this memorable war.”