FIRST OPERATIONS.
Plan of proceeding--Inconveniences--Too many cooks spoil the
broth--Supplementary scale--How to make tea--The Scutari
Teapot--Soyer House--Kululee Hospital--Beautiful view of the city
of Constantine and the Bosphorus--Lady Stratford de Redcliffe’s
arrival--Bad cookery--General and Riding-school Hospitals--Miss
Stanley--Hit upon an entirely new plan--Temporary
indisposition--Depression of spirits--Happy recovery--Opening
day--Grand success--Lord W. Paulet’s letter--Take one wing of the
hospital--The old system--Dissatisfaction of the patients.
In a short time, and without much trouble, I initiated the soldier cooks
into my method, and taught the serjeant to see it properly executed. I
shall here describe the process fully, as it will be generally useful
for hospitals or public institutions. In the first place I drew up two
receipts--the one by weight and the other by measure, the former for
beef and the latter for mutton soups. Mutton was the principal meat used
for patients in a state of convalescence. These receipts I had carefully
copied and hung up in the kitchen, at the same time supplying the cooks
with weights and scales. I also taught them how to stew the meat well,
and to manage the fires so as to prevent over-boiling or burning, as
well as to economize the fuel. It was no longer a matter of much
difficulty. Every soldier had become a cook; and if in case of any of
them being removed to their regiments, one of the initiated, under the
direction of the above-mentioned serjeant, who was not changed, soon
made a new recruit capable of cooking for any number. So simple was this
plan, that it was as easy to cook for thousands as it had before been
for hundreds, and to do it to perfection.[9]
Although this was as perfect as possible, a great difficulty still
remained, as the number varied daily, some days increasing, others
decreasing; and as the whole was cooked by messes, the same caldron, was
required to cook for two hundred and fifty persons one day, and perhaps
for one hundred and seventy the next. This caused great confusion and
delay, as well as continual quarrelling, among the cooks and orderlies,
the latter complaining of not getting their full share; and if this
happened, it was a matter of vital importance to the patient, who was
thus deprived of the proper quantity of sustenance ordered by the
medical man. In fact, it led to many very serious results. I therefore
settled that all the caldrons should be filled every day; and as each
boiler would cook for one hundred and fifty, in one only was it
necessary that the quantity should vary. As it was most probable that
this one would vary daily, I made a supplementary scale for it, from
five diets to one hundred, leaving only a few pounds to be guessed. If
any mistake occurred, it could be of no material consequence. I also had
tinned iron, skewers made, with numbers to each, to prevent the meat
being mixed in the boilers, as expedition, cleanliness, and proportion
should be the motto of all such establishments. This plan was followed
to the last.
As all the boilers had been well tinned, I showed the men how to make
tea on a large scale. Their plan was to tie the tea in a piece of cloth,
and throw it into the boiling water. In a few minutes the cloth had
shrunk so much, that the aroma of the tea, instead of being diffused,
was retained in the centre, the inside of the bag being scarcely soaked.
This I proposed to remedy by having fine nets made for the purpose. Miss
Nightingale immediately had this done, and they were a great
improvement. This, after all, was not quite satisfactory, as the tea had
to be made in the same boilers as the soup and meat. The coppers were
fixtures, and of such large dimensions, that it was almost impossible to
clean them properly. I therefore invented my Scutari Teapot, with its
valuable and economical improvement upon the old system, the model of
which is given at the end of the book. (See Addenda.)
DESCRIPTION OF TEAPOT.
I had a large kettle made, holding eight quarts, and put a coffee filter
to it. I then placed the rations of tea for about twenty men in the
filter, poured in the boiling water, and, to my astonishment, made about
one-fourth more tea, perfectly clear, and without the least sediment.
Four of these kettles made enough tea for all the hospital, and this at
once induced me to order some upon a smaller scale for the various
wards, where at night it is often of the greatest importance that tea
should be prepared quickly, in large quantities. I cannot too strongly
recommend it to large families, institutions, and other establishments,
for its economy of time, and a saving of at least twenty-five per cent,
upon the quantity of tea required. I tried it in Miss Nightingale’s room
at Scutari, before several persons; and the Reverend Mr. Blackwood, the
chaplain, persuaded me to bring them out for the benefit of the poorer
classes, as much for its cleanliness as its economy. This, reader, I
claim more as a happy thought than an invention; but I always had an
idea that tea should be suspended in the water, instead of being allowed
to fall to the bottom, as is generally the case. Coffee may be made in
these vessels, as the construction is the same as that of a coffee-pot.
By this time my kiosque, or, as it was afterwards named, Soyer House,
was ready. It was situated in Cambridge-street, near the Scutari Grand
Champ des Morts. Thanks to this, my daily trip across the Bosphorus was
at an end, and as the March winds had a great influence upon its
current, I preferred _terra firma_, to rolling about in its whimsical
stream of daily pearls, evening diamonds, and shoals of immense
porpoises, which towards sunset commence to accompany you with their
nautical summersaults. These at first terrified the uninitiated, who
could not help fearing the sudden appearance of an unexpected passenger
on board the caique.
The time having been fixed by Lady Stratford de Redcliffe for our visit
to Kululee, in company with a doctor from that hospital I rode over
there. It is about five miles from Scutari, along the edge of the
Bosphorus; and from an ancient Jewish cemetery on the top of one of the
hills the beauty of the panorama is such as to defy description. My
opinion is, that such another view does not exist in any other spot
under the canopy of heaven. Under its inspiration I entirely forgot the
annoyance I had endured in that labyrinth of ruin and filth. From this
spot the metropolis of Constantine, backed by a sky of fire, presented
so sublime and picturesque an appearance, that in an enchanted dream
alone could one hope to realize the effect of the mirage. It embraced
the city and the whole length of the Bosphorus, down to the entrance of
the Black Sea. Leaving this beautiful landscape, we passed through
several dull, though very pretty villages, and shortly after arrived at
the hospital and barrack of Kululee. It is surrounded by kiosques and
country seats. The country appears very rich and fertile, but owing to
the indolence of the inhabitants, “which may be adopted as a proverb,”
produces little. Although Nature has done so much for the Moslem race,
she seems also to have deprived them of the faculty of exertion, and
consequently of doing anything for themselves.
Shortly after our arrival we saw, through the golden rays of a dazzling
sunlight, several caiques gaily dancing on the turbulent waves of the
Bosphorus. They darted swiftly towards us; the caidjees wore white
jackets with flowing sleeves. In a few minutes Lady Stratford landed,
attended by several of her fair companions. “Have you been over the
hospital, Monsieur Soyer?” said Lady Stratford, on landing.
“No, I have not, my lady.”
“I am glad of that, as I wish to explain everything to you respecting
the various kitchen departments myself. You must know, Monsieur Soyer,
that we have three separate hospitals here. Although they are under the
direction of one doctor, they form three distinct establishments. We
will now visit the Barrack Hospital, as we are so close to it, and then
the other two.”
Several remarks were made upon the delightful situation of Kululee. Lady
Stratford in the meantime sent Signor Roco to apprise Dr. Humfries of
our arrival. We commenced visiting the store-rooms, provisions,
kitchens, larders, &c. I found in the extra-diet kitchen several very
good and well-prepared diets; and amongst these some very nice
calves’-foot jelly, and excellent rice pudding made by the Sisters of
Mercy. I took notes of what was required in kitchen utensils--alterations
and improvements in that department; and as one of Captain Gordon’s best
men was with me, our business proceeded very rapidly.
Lady Stratford proposed that we should next visit the principal kitchen.
“I think, from its appearance, Monsieur Soyer, that it is in a very bad
state.” Such proved to be the case. It was in perfect darkness, full of
smoke, and the stoves, as large as those at Scutari, required
considerable alterations, the furnaces being inside, instead of out, as
at Scutari. The brick-work was quite burnt out, and all the smoke came
in the kitchen, blinding the men, who could not support the extra
fatigue caused by this nuisance, even preferring their dangerous duty in
the trenches to this kind of culinary inquisition, as it might very
justly have been called. They were in consequence changed every week, or
even oftener. The result of this was bad cookery and the consumption of
about 170 per cent. more wood than was necessary. The men actually
piled small trees, cut into lengths of five or six feet, upon the fires;
and when the soup boiled too fast they threw pailsful of water upon the
burning wood, thus filling the place with dust and steam. As the boilers
were screwed down in the same manner as those at Scutari Barrack
Hospital, they had never been tinned since first used. I at once had the
furnaces put in order, and the skylight over them repaired. I gave them
my receipts, and sent one of my men over for a few days to teach them
how to make the soup. I also promised Lady Stratford, who took so much
interest in the success of that hospital, to call as often as I could;
and, after the opening of my kitchens at Scutari, to spend a few days
there, and superintend the cooking myself.
We then went to the General Hospital, on the top of the hill, which
contained three hundred patients. Having had the honour of being
introduced to the Sisters of Mercy, I took notes of all that was wanted
there, and we lastly proceeded to the Riding School Hospital,
appropriated to the convalescents. There I had the pleasure of being
introduced to Miss Stanley, who had the superintendence of the Sisters.
This establishment had neither kitchen nor cooking utensils. However, by
the aid of the engineer who accompanied us, everything was soon settled.
Yet, after all, I ordered nothing that was not indispensable; and I must
remark that, with all the power with which I was invested by the War
Department, coupled with the willing assistance of Captain Gordon, I
found it a difficult matter to get a plank, or even a nail, fixed in any
of the hospitals. At the same time, I may add, with pride and gratitude,
that throughout the Crimean campaign I was most highly favoured by every
department; for if anything I required was procurable, I had it.
Lady Stratford and visitors having expressed their satisfaction at the
success of our visit, I was on the point of retiring with Signor Roco
Vido, when Lady Stratford asked what day the kitchen at Scutari would be
opened. “On Monday next,” was my reply. “I presume we shall be honoured
with your ladyship’s presence, and that of your suite.”--“I shall not
fail to attend, Monsieur Soyer,” were her ladyship’s words.
The Sisters having thanked me, we retired. We returned in a beautiful
Oriental moonlight by the same road--the panorama of the morning being
now tinted by the reflection of the soft rays of the moon.
Just as I had set everybody to work in the various hospitals, and my
Scutari kitchen was nearly finished, an entirely new plan suggested
itself to my mind. It was as follows:--Instead of commencing with a
hundred patients at a time, as I had at first intended, I changed my
mind, and preferred making a grand opening, resolving to invite all the
heads of the medical department in the various hospitals, as well as
some of the most eminent among the French and Turkish medical staff.
This, I was aware, was a bold experiment; for had I failed--and many
unforeseen events might have caused such a result--my reputation would
have suffered. I was, therefore, well aware that I was risking the
labour of twenty years against an uncertainty; as all those I was about
to invite would come to watch my proceedings with the eyes of Argus, and
would judge of my plans accordingly. At all events, my sample trials had
already given great satisfaction to two eminent doctors. In pursuance of
this plan, I went to Lord William Paulet, explained it, and begged him
to send, or cause to be sent, invitations to all the principal officers
to honour me with their presence upon the occasion, which his lordship
kindly promised to do. I also apprised the doctor-in-chief, who promised
to attend himself, and invite the principal medical gentlemen to do the
same.
The opening day was fixed for the following Monday--it was then
Tuesday--leaving me till Thursday to finish my preparations. On the
Friday morning, after having inspected several kitchens, and gone
through a number of wards, I was suddenly taken ill. I seemed to have
forgotten everything, and experienced at the same time a sensation of
brain fever. There were, however, none of its symptoms. Although I was
quite conscious of what I had to do, I was entirely incapable of doing
it, or of ordering anything or directing any one. In fact, I began to
fear that all my former endeavours would prove useless, and the opening
of my kitchen be a marked failure. The day appointed by Lord Paulet
could not easily be changed, and such a course would have caused the
success of my project to be doubted. Though I had a couple of
assistants, neither of them could carry it out for me, as they did not
know my plans. This sudden indisposition I only mentioned to my people
and to Doctor Macgregor, who told me to keep quiet, and gave me some
soothing medicine. It was Sunday afternoon before my head was clear,
and, after a good night’s rest, I felt myself again, and quite able to
open my kitchen on the day appointed.
The doctor attributed this mental disorder to the effect produced by the
immense number of sick and wounded I was in the habit of seeing daily,
and the numerous dead bodies passing before the windows to be buried. I
had also witnessed several cases of autopsy and some operations. “This,”
he said, “with the constant worry of business, has unnerved you to that
extent, that had you unfortunately taken the fever, you would perhaps
never have recovered your senses.” However, thanks to a kind Providence,
I was able to open my kitchen at the appointed time. It met with perfect
success, and the entire approbation of all the medical gentlemen and
visitors present. They all expressed themselves highly gratified, and
declared that the various samples of diets I then submitted for their
opinion were much preferable to those produced under the old system,
besides having the merit of being concocted with the same ration
allowance.
The plan I adopted was this:--my samples of diets and extra diets being
prepared, I arranged the basins containing the different diets on the
table, and in juxta-position I placed those prepared by the soldiers,
affixing a number to each, to enable the people present to make a
comparison. All was ready by eleven o’clock, and one being the time
appointed for the arrival of the visitors, I fetched Doctor Cumming, and
requested him to taste the several samples, and give me his candid
opinion; observing that everything was made from the usual allowance,
and cost about the same, or even less, when made in large quantities.
No. 1, was beef-tea. Tasting my sample first, Doctor Cumming pronounced
it good; the other, without taste or flavour. No. 1 was adopted.
Then followed chicken-broth, mutton-broth, beef-soup, rice-water,
barley-water, arrowroot-water, ditto with wine, sago with port,
calves’-foot jelly, &c. Everything was found superior, and so highly
commended by the doctor-in-chief, I no longer had any doubt of success,
nor of the general approval of all the faculty. I promised to lay the
recipes for my new diets before the doctor the next day, and he
retired.[10]
About half-past twelve, the kitchen was crowded to excess with military
and medical men. Lord William Paulet entered, followed by his staff, and
accompanied by Mr. Milton, Mr. and Mrs. Bracebridge, &c. They were much
pleased with the cleanly appearance of the kitchen, and equally
surprised at the alteration which it had undergone in so short a time. I
then showed his lordship round, carefully pointing out to him the simple
but useful alterations I had effected; and requested him to taste the
various samples, compare the one with the other, and give his candid
opinion thereupon. Having done this, Lord W. Paulet expressed his high
satisfaction, and to confirm it, while in the kitchen, wrote the
following letter:--
_Lord William Paulet to Monsieur Soyer._
It is with great pleasure that I state I have carefully viewed and
tasted the new diets introduced by Monsieur Soyer in the hospitals
this day; and had I not seen and tasted them, I could not have
believed that such an amelioration could have been produced from
the same materials as allowed by Government.
W. PAULET.
[Illustration: THE BARRACK HOSPITAL KITCHEN, SCUTARI.]
Above a hundred officials from the various hospitals were present, and
many of the Sisters of Mercy. Not one person had anything to say in
disapproval; but, on the contrary, praised everything. This was
sufficient to stamp it with success. The only thing I regretted was,
that--owing to the rough state of the Bosphorus that day--Lady Stratford
de Redcliffe, as well as a number of military men and medical officers
from the French and Turkish hospitals, were not present. However, they
visited my kitchen some days after, and having inspected everything,
added their testimonials of approbation to those I had already received.
They were particularly struck with the cleanliness and order in a place
where so much was done daily.
The day after the opening, I proposed to Doctors Cumming and Macgregor,
the superintendent, to take one wing of the hospital, which contained
one-fourth of the patients, and supply these with all which they might
require. This I did with the greatest ease, and without the least
confusion, much to the satisfaction of the patients. I continued to do
this for three days, and then took half of the hospital in hand. As I
wished fully to impress the patients with the superiority of my
newly-adopted diets, I then took the other half in hand, and put the
first back to the old _régime_, for a day or two, as I was not quite
prepared to undertake the whole at once. The patients immediately became
dissatisfied, so I was obliged to go with Dr. Macgregor to them and
explain the reason of the sudden change, which was only momentary, three
cheers from my numerous guests closing my laconic, though effective,
speech.