Monday 12, at eight in the evening Cloven Cliff bearing west-south-west

four or five miles, they sounded in fifteen fathoms water, and found a

rocky bottom. Saw several English and Dutch Greenlanders at anchor in

the Norways: That being their rendezvous to the northward, they never

chuse to proceed farther. Here they found the current setting so fast to

eastward, that they were forced to come to an anchor to keep from

drifting on the ice; the swell from westward being so great, that had

that happened, it would of consequence have staved the ships. At five in

the morning a breeze from north-north-east springing up, they weighed,

and made sail. At eight Hacluit’s Headland west-south-west one half

west, six or seven leagues, at noon latitude 80 degrees 2 minutes north.

Tuesday 13, the weather being clear and calm, and a strong easterly

current setting in, at eight in the evening they came to with their

stream anchors and hausers in forty fathoms water but at nine a breeze

springing up from the eastward, they weighed, and next day came to an

anchor in Smearingburgh Harbour. Cloven Cliff east one half south one

mile. West point of Voogle land north-north-west one half west, distant

one mile and a half; soundings fifteen fathom sandy bottom.

Here they remained between five and six days to take in fresh water,

during which time our journalist was employed in surveying the country,

which to a stranger had a very awful and romantic appearance.

The country is stoney, and as far as can be seen full of mountains,

precipices and rocks. Between these are hills of ice, generated, as it

should seem, by the torrents that flow from the melting of the snow on

the sides of those towering elevations, which being once congealed, are

continually increased by the snow in winter, and the rain in summer,

which often freezes as soon as it falls. By looking on these hills, a

stranger may fancy a thousand different shapes of trees, castles,

churches, ruins, ships, whales, monsters, and all the various forms that

fill the universe. Of the ice-hills there are seven, that more

particularly attract the notice of a stranger. These are known by the

name of the seven iceburgs, and are thought to be the highest of the

kind in that country. When the air is clear, and the sun shines full

upon these mountains, the prospect is inconceivably brilliant. They

sometimes put on the bright glow of the evening rays of the setting sun,

when reflected upon glass, at his going down; sometimes they appear of a

bright blue, like sapphire, and sometimes like the variable colours of a

prism, exceeding in lustre the richest gems in the world, disposed in

shapes wonderful to behold, all glittering with a lustre that dazzles

the eye, and fills the air with astonishing brightness.

Smearingburgh harbour, where they landed, was first discovered by the

Dutch. Here they erected sheds and conveniences for boiling the oil from

the fat of the whales, instead of barrelling it up to be boiled at home.

Here also, allured by the hope of gain, they built a village, and

endeavoured to fix a colony: but the first settlers all perished in the

ensuing winter. The remains of the village may be traced to this day;

and their stoves, kettles, kardels, troughs, ovens, and other

implements, remained in the shape of solid ice long after the utensils

themselves were decayed. Our voyagers were told, that the Russians have

lately attempted the same thing, and that ten out of fifteen perished

last winter in this second attempt.

Where every object is new, it is not easy for a stranger to fix which

first to admire. The rocks are striking objects: before a storm they

exhibit a fiery appearance, and the sun looks pale upon them, the snow

giving the air a bright reflection. Their summits are almost always

involved in clouds, so that it is but just possible to see the tops of

them. Some of these rocks are but one stone from bottom to top,

appearing like an old decayed ruin. Others consist of huge masses,

veined differently, like marble, with red, white, and yellow, and

probably, were they to be sawed and polished, would equal, if not excel,

the finest Egyptian marble we now so much admire. Perhaps the distance

and danger of carrying large blocks of stones, may be the reason that no

trials have been made to manufacture them. On the southerly and westerly

sides of these rocks grow all the plants, herbs, and mosses peculiar to

this country; on the northerly and easterly sides the wind strikes so

cold when it blows from these quarters, that it perishes every kind of

vegetable. These plants grow to perfection in a very short time. Till

the middle of May the whole country is locked up in ice; about the

beginning of July the plants are in flower, and about the latter end of

the same month, or beginning of August, they have perfected their seed.

The earth owes its fertility, in a great measure, to the dung of birds,

who build and breed their young here in the summer, and in the winter

repair to more favourable climates.

The plants that are most common in Spitsbergen are scurvy-grass and

crows-foot; there are besides small house-leak, and a plant with

aloe-leaves; an herb like stone-crop; some small snake-weed; mouse-ear;

wood-strawbery; periwinkle; and a herb peculiar to the country which

they call the rock-plant. The leaves of this plant are in shape like a

man’s tongue, above six feet long, of a dull yellow colour. The stalk is

round and smooth, and of the same colour with the leaf; it rises

tapering, and smells like muscles. It is an aquatic, and rises in height

in proportion to the depth of water in which it is found. There are

other plants and herbs, but these are the chief. Of flowers, the white

poppy seems the principal.

The rocks and precipices are full of fissures and clefts, which afford

convenient harbour for birds to lay their eggs, and breed their young in

safety. Most of these birds are water-fowl, and seek their food in the

sea. Some, indeed, are birds of prey; and pursue and kill others for

their own sustenance, but these are rare. The water-fowl eat strong and

fishy, and their fat is not to be endured. They are so numerous about

the rocks, as sometimes to darken the air when they rise in flocks; and

they scream so horribly, that the rocks ring with their noise.

There are a few small birds like our snipes, and a kind of snow-bird,

but different from that found about Hudson’s bay. The gentlemen shot

some of the water-fowl, but they were strong and ill-tasted.

The ice-bird is a very beautiful little bird, but very rare. He is in

size and shape like a turtle-dove, but his plumage, when the sun shines

upon him, is of a bright yellow, like the golden ring in the peacock’s

tail, and almost dazzles the eye to look upon it.

The other inhabitants of this forlorn country are white bears, deer, and

foxes. How these creatures can subsist in the winter, when the whole

earth is covered with snow, and the sea locked up in ice, is hardly to

be conceived. It has been said, indeed, that when the ocean is all

frozen over, and no sustenance to be procured in this country, they

travel southerly to the warmer climates, where food proper for them

abounds in the immense forests of the northern continent. But whoever

considers the vast distance between Spitsbergen and the nearest parts of

the northern continent, will be as much at a loss to account for the

subsistence of these creatures in their journey, as in the desolate

region where they undoubtedly remain. The bear is by far the best

accommodated to the climate of which he is an inhabitant. He is equally

at home on land and water, and hunts diligently for his prey in both. In

summer he finds plenty of food from the refuse of the whales, sea-horses

and seals, which is thrown into the sea by the whalers, and cover the

shores during the time of whaling; and they have besides a wonderful

sagacity in smelling out the carcases of the dead, let them be ever so

deeply buried in the earth, or covered with stones. The dead therefore

that annually are buried here may contribute, in some degree, to the

subsistence of a few of these creatures in winter; but the question will

still recur, how the race of them subsisted before the whale-fishery had

existence, and before men found the way to this inhospitable shore.

Disquisitions of this kind, as they are beyond the reach of human

comprehension, serve only to raise our admiration of that omnipotent

Being to whom nothing is impossible.

These creatures, as they differ in nothing but their colour and size

from those commonly shewn in England, need no description.

The foxes differ little in shape from those we are acquainted with, but

in colour there is no similitude. Their heads are black, and their

bodies white. As they are beasts of prey, if they do not provide in

summer for the long recess of winter, it were, one would think, almost

impossible for them to survive; yet they are seen in plenty, though, by

their subtlety and swiftness, they are not easy to be catched.

The Dutch seamen report, that when they are hungry they will feign

themselves dead, and when the ravenous birds come to feed upon them,

they rise and make them their prey.

But the most wonderful thing of all is, how the deer can survive an

eight months famine. Like ours they feed upon nothing that can be

perceived, but the vegetables which the earth spontaneously produces;

and yet for eight months in the year, the earth produces neither plant,

herb, shrub, or blade of any kind of grass whatever. They are, besides,

but thinly cloathed for so severe a climate, and what seems still worse,

there is not a bush to be seen to shelter them, within the distance that

any man has yet discovered. The means of their subsistence must

therefore remain among the secrets of nature, never to be disclosed, as

no human being can ever live here, so as to be able to trace these

creatures to their winter’s residence.

Amphibious creatures abound the most about the sounds and bays of

Spitsbergen, and they seem best adapted to endure the climate. These are

the seals, or sea dogs, and morses, or sea horses; of which the whalers

avail themselves, when disappointed in compleating their lading with the

fat of whales.

The seal is sufficiently known; but the sea-horse, as it is a creature

peculiar to high latitudes, is therefore more rare. It is not easy to

say how he came by his name; for there is no more likeness between a

sea-horse and a land-horse, than there is between a whale and an

elephant. The sea-horse is not unlike the seal in shape. He has a large

round head, larger than that of a bull, but shaped more like that of a

pug-dog without ears, than any other animal we are acquainted with. He

tapers all the way down to the tail, like the fish we call a lump, and

his size is equal to that of the largest sized ox. His tusks close over

his under jaw, like those of a very old boar, and are in length from one

foot to two or more, in proportion to the size and age of the animal

that breeds them. His skin is thicker than that of a bull, and covered

with short mouse-coloured hair, which is sleeker and thicker, just as he

happens to be in or out of season when he is caught. His paws, before

and behind, are like those of a mole, and serve him for oars when he

swims, and for legs to crawl when he goes upon the ice, or on shore. He

is a fierce animal, but being unweildy when on land, or on the ice, is

easily overcome.

These animals are always found in herds, sometimes of many hundreds

together, and if one is attacked, the rest make a common cause, and

stand by one another till the last gasp. If they are attacked in the

water, they will fight desperately, and will even attempt the boats of

their pursuers, if any of them are wounded, and not mortally. Some of

them have been known to make holes in the bottom of the boat with their

tusks, in defence of their young. Their eyes are large, and they have

two holes in the upper part of the neck, out of which they eject the

water, in like manner as it is ejected by whales.

Though the sea about Spitsbergen is full of fish, yet they rather appear

to be designed by Providence for the sustenance of one another, than for

the food of man. The mackarel, of which there are no great plenty, seem

not only to be the most wholesome, and the most palatable, but also the

most beautiful. They seem to be a different species to those caught upon

our coasts. The upper part of the back is of a vivid blue; the other

part as low as the belly of a gem-like green on an azure ground.

Underneath the belly the colour is a transparent white, and the fins

shine like polished silver. All the colours glow when alive in the sea

with such a richness, that fancy can hardly form to itself any thing in

nature more beautiful. Almost all the other fish on this coast are of an

oily nature, and of a very indifferent flavour.

The saw, or sword fish, is remarkable not only for the oddity of his

shape, but also for his enmity to the whale. This fish takes his name

from a broad flat bone, in length from two to four feet, which projects

from his nose, and tapers to a point. On each side, it has teeth like a

comb, at the distance of a finger’s breadth asunder. He is also

furnished with a double row of fins, and is of astonishing strength in

the water. His length from ten to twenty feet. He seems to be formed for

war, and war is his profession. The conflict betwixt him and the whale

is dreadful, yet he never gives over till his sword is broken, or he

comes off victorious.

The whale is a harmless fish, and is never known to fight but in his own

defence. Yet when he is exasperated, he rages dreadfully. Though from

his magnitude, he may be called the sovereign of the seas; yet, like

other sovereigns, he is liable to be vexed and hurt by the meanest

reptiles. The whale’s louse is a most tormenting little animal. Its

scales are as hard as those of our prawns; its head is like the louse’s

head, with four horns, two that serve as feelers, the other two are

hard, and curved, and serve as clenchers to fix him to the whale. On his

chest, underneath, he has two carvers, like scythes, with which he

collects his food, and behind these are four feet, that serve him for

oars. He has, moreover, six other clenchers behind, with which he can

rivet himself so closely to his prey, that he can no otherwise be

disengaged, but by cutting out the whole piece to which he is joined. He

is jointed on the back like the tail of a lobster, and his tail covers

him like a shield when he is feeding. He fixes himself on the tenderest

parts of the whale’s body, between his fins, on his sheath, and on his

lips, and eats pieces out of his flesh, as if eaten by vultures.

They found no springs of fresh-water in Spitsbergen; but in the valleys,

between the mountains, are many little rills caused by the rain and

melting of the snow in summer; and from these rills the ships are

supplied. Some are of opinion, that this water is unwholesome, but they

are more nice than wise. The whaling people have drank of it for ages,

and have found no ill effects from the use of it. Ice taken up in the

middle of these seas and thawed, yields also good fresh water.

On board the Race Horse, Dr. Irvine, the gentleman who received the

premium by a grant of parliament, for his discovery of an easy process

for making salt-water fresh at sea, tried many experiments at

Spitsbergen, and in the course of the voyage; the result of which will

appear at a proper time. That gentleman had formed a project for

preserving flesh meat fresh and sweet in long voyages, but it did not

answer in this.

In calm weather they remarked, that the sea about the islands appeared

uncommonly still and smooth; that it was not suddenly moved at the first

approach of blowing weather; but that when the storm continued, the

waves swelled gradually, and rose to an incredible height.--These

swelling waves successively follow one another, and roll along before

the wind, foaming and raging in a frightful manner, yet they are thought

less dangerous than those that break short, and are less mountainous.

They observed likewise, that the ice that rested on the ground was not

stationary, but that it changed place; and they learnt also, that in

some seasons there was no ice, where this season they were in danger of

being embayed. There does not, however, from thence appear the least

reason to conclude, that any practicable passage to the Indian ocean can

ever be found in this direction; for were it certain that the seas were

always open under the pole, yet great bulwarks of ice evidently surround

it, sometimes at a less, and sometimes at a greater distance. Moreover,

were it possible that chance should direct some fortunate adventurer to

an opening at one time, it would be more than a million to one, if the

same opening were passable to the next who should attempt it.

There are many harbours about Spitsbergen, besides that of Smearingburg,

where ships employed in the whale fishery take shelter in stormy

weather; and there are some islands, such as Charles’s Island, the

Clifted Rock, Red-Hill, Hacluit’s Headland, &c. that serve as landmarks,

by which seamen direct their course. These islands are full of the nests

of birds; but their eggs are as nauseous as the flesh of the fowls that

lay them. The sailors sometimes eat them, but they are filthy food. Even

the geese and ducks on the neighbouring islands eat fishy and strong.

The air about Spitsbergen is never free from icicles. If you look

through the sun-beams transversely as you sit in the shade, or where you

see the rays confined in a body, instead of dark motes, as are seen

here, you see myriads of shining particles that sparkle like diamonds;

and when the sun shines hot, as it sometimes does, so as to melt the tar

in the seams of ships when they lie sheltered from the wind, these

shining atoms seem to melt away, and descend like dew.

It is seldom that the air continues clear for many days together in this

climate; when that happens, the whalers are generally successful. There

is no difference between night and day in the appearance of the

atmosphere about Spitsbergen, one being as light as the other, only when

the sun is to the northward, you may look at him with the naked eye, as

at the moon, without dazzling. The fogs here come on so suddenly, that

from bright sun-shine, you are presently involved in such obscurity,

that you can hardly see from one end of the ship to the other.

While our journalist was busy in making his observations, all belonging

to the ships were differently engaged in one employment or other; some

in taking in water, some in fishing, some in hunting, some in handing

the sails, and spreading them out to dry, some in scrubbing the ship,

and some in viewing the country. The Commanders and officers, with Mr.

Lyon, Mr. Robinson, &c. busied themselves in making observations, being

furnished with an apparatus, that is said to have cost at least one

thousand five hundred pounds. From such a set of instruments, in the

hands of the ablest observers, the nation can boast, some very

considerable discoveries in the phenomena of the polar regions may be

expected. They landed their instruments in a small island, in Vogle

Sound, and had several opportunities during their stay of using them to

advantage. Having erected two tents, the Captains from the fishery

frequently visited the observers, and expressed their admiration not

only at the perfection of the instruments, but likewise at the dexterity

with which they were accommodated.

The ice began to set in a-pace, yet the weather was hot. The thermometer

from fifty-six in the cabin rose to ninety in the open air. It was still

ten degrees higher on the top of a mountain to which it was carried. The

island on which the experiments were made, they called Marble Island,

from the rock by which it is formed. Having watered, and finished their

observations, the ships prepared to depart.

Monday July the 19th, the Commodore made the signal to weigh; at two in

the afternoon the ships were under sail, and as soon as they had made

their offing, stood to the eastward. At three they tacked and steered

northward; and before four were again entangled among the loose ice,

through which they sailed, directing their course along the main body,

which lay from north-west to south-south-east.

Tuesday the 20th, they continued their course along the ice, but could

discover no opening, though they searched every creek, and left no bay

or turning unexamined. This day they observed what the sailors call a

mock-sun, a phænomenon well enough known in this climate. Hacluit’s

Headland bore south-west one half south forty-six leagues; the weather

cloudy, with rain; excessive cold. Thermometer 37 degrees 46 minutes.

Wednesday the 21st, the severity of the weather increasing, an

additional quantity of brandy was served out to the people, and every

comfortable refreshment afforded them, that they themselves could wish

or require. The course of the ice lay this day north-east.

Thursday 22, nothing remarkable.

Friday the 23d, they saw land from east by south, to south-east by

south. At four in the morning, Hacluit’s Headland bore south-east ten

leagues; the wind variable, and the weather cold, with sleet and snow.

Thermometer 40 degrees.

Sunday 25, they had gentle breezes, with cloudy weather, and were

engaged among some pieces of ice, separated from the main body, which

kept them continually tacking and luffing. At length they entered among

mountains and islands of ice, which came upon them so fast, that it was

with the utmost difficulty they could proceed; the Carcase having

several times struck against them with such violence, as to raise her

head four feet out of the water. They now imagined, from the solidity

and extent of these islands, that the late strong gales had caused a

separation from the main body, the Commodore therefore changed his

course with a strong gale to the eastward; in the morning the weather

became moderate.

Monday 26, at seven in the morning, they came in sight of Red-hill, a

small mount which commands an open plain, known by the name of

Deers-field, by reason of its fertile appearance, it being the only spot

on which they saw no drifts of snow. To the eastward lies Muffin’s

Island. Here they sounded, and found forty-five fathom water; rocky

ground. Capt. Lutwich sent out the long-boat, with orders to sound along

the shore, and to examine the soil. This island is about a mile long,

very low, and looks at a distance like a black speck. Though the soil is

mostly sand and loose stones, and hardly so much as a green weed upon

it, yet it is remarkable for the number of birds that resort to it in

summer to lay their eggs, and breed their young; and these not of one

kind only, but of many different sorts, as geese, ducks, burgomasters,

ice-birds, malamucks, kirmews, rotgers, and almost every other species

of birds peculiar to the climate; insomuch, that the eggs were so

numerous, and lay so thick upon the ground, that the men who landed

found it difficult to walk without filling their shoes.

While the crew of the boat, ten in number, with their valiant officer at

their head, were examining the island, after having sounded the shores,

they observed two white bears making towards them, one upon the ice, the

other in the water. Major Buz, for that was their officer’s travelling

title, like Falstaff, was always the boldest man in company over a cup

of sack, and minded killing a bear no more than killing a gnat; but

seeing the bears approach very fast, especially that which came in the

water, he ordered his men to fire while yet the enemy was at a distance,

as he did not think it prudent to hazard the lives of his little company

in close fight. All of them pointed their muskets, and some of the party

obeyed orders; but the greater part judging it safer to depend upon a

reserved fire, when they had seemingly discharged their pieces,

pretended to retreat. The Major, a full fathom in the belly, endeavoured

to waddle after his companions; but being soon out of breath, and seeing

the bear that came in the water had just reached the shore, thought of

nothing now but falling the first sacrifice. His hair already stood an

end; and looking behind him, he saw the bear at no great distance, with

his nose in the air snuffing the scent. He had all the reason in the

world to believe it was him that he scented, and he had scarce breath

enough left to call to his men to halt. In this critical situation he

unfortunately dropt his gun, and in stooping to recover it stumbled

against a goose-nest, fell squash upon his belly into it, and had very

nigh smothered the dam upon her eggs. The old saying is, misfortunes

seldom come alone. Before he could well rise, the enraged gander came

flying to the assistance of his half-smothered consort, and making a

dart at the eye of the assailant, very narrowly missed his mark, but

discharged his fury plump upon his nose. The danger now being pressing,

and the battle serious, the bear near, and the gander ready for a second

attack, the men, who had not fled far, thought it high time to return to

the relief of their leader. Overjoyed to see them about him, but

frighted at the bear just behind him, he had forgot the gander that was

over his head, against which one of the men having levelled his piece,

fired and he fell dead at the Major’s feet. Animated now by the death of

one enemy, he recovered his gun, and faced about to assist in the attack

of the second. By this time the bear was scarce ten yards from him, and

beginning to growl, the Major just in the instant was seized with a

looseness, dropt his accoutrements, and fell back, that he might not be

in the way of his party, to impede the engagement. In the hurry he was

in, for in a man of such valour we must not say the fright, he entangled

his buttons, and not being able to hold any longer, he filled his

breeches. The crew in an instant had brought down the bear, and now it

was time for their leader to do something great. Having recovered his

arms, and seeing the poor beast groveling on the ground, and growling

out his last, like a ram in a pinfold, making a short race backwards in

order to redouble his force, he came with nine long strides forwards,

and with the strength and fierceness of an enraged bull, thrust his

lance full four feet deep in the dying bear’s belly. And now, says the

Major, cocking his hat, have not I done for the bear bravely! The

sailors, who are always in a good humour upon such occasions; but

Captain, said they, you have but half done your work, you have another

bear to kill yet. The Major, whose situation began to be troublesome,

content with the honour he had already acquired, my lads, said he, as I

have been the death of one bear, sure six of you may kill the other; so

ordering four of them to row him on board, he left the remaining six to

kill the other bear.

On this island two bears were killed, and a sea-horse. The sea-horse

made a desperate defence, being attacked in the water; and had there

been only one boat engaged in the combat, he certainly would have come

off victorious; but the crew of the Race-horse having learnt that there

were bears and sea-horses on this little spot, were willing to share in

the sport of hunting them, as well as in the pleasure of tasting their

flesh. They accordingly landed in their boats, and came in good time to

assist in pursuing the conquest. It happened, however, that their

ammunition, being almost spent, one great bear came up to revenge the

death of his fellows, and advanced so furiously, growling and barking,

that he put the whole company to flight, and some of them, it is said,

had no great reason to laugh at the Major.

On sounding the shores they remarked, that when the north islands bear

north forty-five east, seven or eight leagues, and Red-hill east by

south five miles, there is generally from twenty-five to thirty fathom

hard ground; but that closer on shore, when Red-hill bears east

one-fourth south about one mile, it increases to one hundred and fifteen

fathom, with soft black mud. The current about one mile an hour to the

north-east.

Tuesday 27, the air being perfectly serene, and the weather moderate,

the fishes seemed to enjoy the temperature, and to express it by their

sporting. The whales were seen spouting their fountains towards the

skies, and the fin fish following their example. They likewise this day

saw dolphins; the whole prospect in short was more pleasing and

picturesque than they had yet beheld in this remote region. The very ice

in which they were beset looked beautiful, and put forth a thousand

glittering forms, and the tops of the mountains, which they could see

like sparkling gems at a vast distance, had the appearance of so many

silver stars illuminating a new firmament. But this flattering prospect

did not continue long. By an accurate observation, they were now in

latitude 80 deg. 47 min. north; and in longitude 21 deg. 10 min. east

from London; and in sight of seven islands to the north, to which they

directed their course.

Wednesday 28, they had fresh easterly breezes, which, from moderate

weather the day before, changed to piercing cold. At midnight the west

end of Weygate straits bore south by east, so that they were now in the

very spot where Barentz had supposed an opening would be found into the

polar sea. Yet so far from it, they could discover nothing from the

mast-head, but a continued continent of solid ice, except the islands

already mentioned. On this ice, however, there were many bears, some of

which came so near the ships as to be shot dead with small arms. These

bears are very good eating, and where no better is to be purchased, the

whalers account them as good as beef. They are many of them larger than

the largest oxen, and weigh heavier. In many parts of their body they

are musket proof, and unless they are hit on the open chest, or on the

flank, a blow with a musket ball will hardly make them turn their backs.

Some of the bears killed in these encounters weighed from seven to eight

hundred weight; and it was thought, that the bear that routed the

sailors on Muffin’s Island, could not weigh less than a thousand weight.

He was, indeed, a very monster!

Thursday 29, sailing among innumerable islands of ice, they found the

main body too solid for the ships to make the least impression upon it,

and finding no opening, the Commodore resolved to send a party under the

command of the first Lieutenant to examine the land, which at a distance

appeared like a plain, diversified with hills and mountains, and

exhibited in their situation a tolerable landskip.

On trying the water, it was less salt than any sea water they had ever

tasted and they found likewise, that the ice was no other than a body of

congealed fresh water, which they imagined had been frozen in the

infancy of the earth.

Tuesday 30, the weather being clear, they ran close to the main body of

the ice, and the sun continuing to shine, made them almost forget the

climate they were sailing in, but it was not long before they had reason

for severe recollection. In coasting along, they observed many openings,

and were in hopes, from their distant appearance, that a passage might

be made between them; but, upon trial it was found, as the Dutch

fishermen had foretold, that these appearances were deceitful. At one in

the morning fine clear sun-shine, they sounded in sixteen fathom water,

and found small stones at bottom. They were then about four miles from

the north-east part of the northernmost land; the easternmost land in

sight, distant about five or six leagues.

Saturday 31, at midnight, the easternmost land in sight lay

east-north-east one half east, which they could not make out to be an

island. They rather judged it to be a continent, but found it impossible

to determine with certainty, as it lay beyond their reach. At nine in

the morning the Carcase hoisted out her cutter, and filled her empty

water-casks with water from the ice. On this ice lie great quantities of

snow, and as soon as a pit is dug, it fills with fine soft clear water,

not inferior to that of many land springs. At noon they sounded in

ninety five fathoms, the ground soft mud. This day a bear came over the

ice to visit them, the first they had seen since they left Muffin’s

Island. They saluted him with a volley of small arms, and he returned

the compliment, by turning his back upon them. Their longitude was this

day 21 degrees 26 minutes east, by time-keeper. Thermometer forty-five.

Sunday August 1, proved a day of trial. Lying too among the close ice,

with the loose ice driving fast to shore, the Commodore was desirous of

surveying the westernmost of the seven islands, which appeared the

highest, in order to judge, from the prospect on the hills, of the

possibility of proceeding farther on the discovery. With this view they

carried out their ice-anchors, and made both ships fast to the main

body, a practice very common with the fishing ships that annually

frequent those seas. Of the reconnoitring party, were the Captains, the

second Lieutenants, one of the mathematicians, the pilots, and some

chosen sailors, selected from both ships. They set out about two in the

morning, and sometimes sailing, sometimes drawing their boats over the

ice, they with difficulty reached the shore, where the first objects

they saw were a herd of deer, so very tame, that they seemed as curious

to gaze at the strangers, as the strangers were pleased to see them; for

they came five or six together so near, that they might have been killed

with the thrust of a bayonet; a proof that animals are not naturally

afraid of man, till, by the fate of their associates, they are taught

the danger of approaching them; a proof too, that animals are not

destitute of reflection, otherwise how should they conclude, that what

has befallen their fellow animals, will certainly happen to them, if

they run the like risque. The gentlemen, however, suffered only one of

these fearless innocents to be fired at, and that was done by a sailor

when they were absent on observation.

On this island they gathered some scurvy-grass, and in many places they

could perceive the sides of the hills covered with the verdure on which

these deer undoubtedly fed.

After having ascended the highest hills on the sea-coast, and taken a

view of the country and the ocean all round, the gentlemen descended,

and about five in the afternoon embarked again on their return to the

ships, at which they arrived safe about ten, after an absence of twenty

hours. They were greatly disappointed by the haziness of the weather on

the tops of the mountains, which confined the prospect, and prevented

their taking an observation with the instruments they had carried with

them for that purpose.

There is here a small variation in the journals of the two ships; that

kept on board the Commodore making the distance between the island and

the ships near twenty miles; the other only five leagues, which might

easily happen, as the ships shifted their stations with the main body of

ice, sometimes driving north-west, sometimes the contrary course, as the

wind and tides happened to sit.

Their situation now began to be serious, and it was discovered too late,

that by grappling to the ice, as practised by the Greenlandmen, they had

endangered the loss of the ships, the loose ice closing so fast about

them, that they found it absolutely impossible to get them disengaged;

and there was, besides, great reason to fear, that one or both would

soon be crushed to pieces. Great minds are ever most distinguished by

their expedients on the most alarming occasions. The Commodore set all

hands to work to form a dock in the solid ice, large enough to moor both

ships; and by the alacrity with which that service was performed, the

ships were preserved from the danger of immediate destruction.

The ships being thus far secured, the officers, pilots, and masters,

were all summoned on board the Commodore, to consult on what further was

to be done in their present unpromising situation; when it was

unanimously agreed, that their deliverance was hopeless; and that they

must either provide to winter upon the adjacent islands, or attempt to

launch their boats into the open sea, which was already at a

considerable distance; for the loose ice had poured into the bay in

which they were at anchor with so much rapidity, and in such astonishing

quantities, that the open sea was already far out of sight. Before any

thing farther was undertaken, the men were ordered to their quarters,

that they might refresh themselves with sleep.

While their Commanders preserve their fortitude, the sailors never lose

their courage. They rose in the morning with as much alacrity and

unconcern, as if they had been sailing with a fine breeze in the British

Channel.

August 2, it was now thought adviseable to make one desperate attempt to

extricate the ships, by cutting a channel to the westward into the open

sea. The scooping out the dock with so much expedition, by a party only

of one ship, raised high expectations of what might be performed by the

united labours of both the crews. No body of men ever undertook a work

of such difficulty with so much chearfulness and confidence of success,

as the sailors observed on this occasion. Their ice-saws, axes, sledges,

poles, and the whole group of sea-tools, were in an instant all employed

in facilitating the work; but after cutting through blocks of solid ice

from eight to fifteen feet deep, and coming to others of many fathoms,

that exceeded the powers of man to separate, that was laid aside as a

hopeless project; and another more promising, though not less laborious,

adopted in its room.

On the 3d of August, after the men had again refreshed themselves with

sleep, it was resolved to fit up the boats belonging to both the ships

with such coverings as were most easy to be accommodated, and of

lightest conveyance; and by skating them over the ice, endeavour to

launch them in the open sea. Could this be effected, they hoped, that by

sailing and rowing to the northernmost harbour of Spitsbergen, they

might arrive at that island, before the departure of the last ships

belonging to the fishery for Europe.

While the boats were getting ready for this expedition, a second party

were dispatched to the island, with orders to take the distance as exact

as it was possible to the nearest open sea. As all the people belonging

to the ships were not to be engaged in these services, those who were

unemployed diverted themselves in hunting and killing the bears, that

now, attracted perhaps by the savory smell of the provisions dressed on

board the ships, came every day over the ice to repeat their visits.

Several of these were killed occasionally, and this day they fought a

sea-horse, in which engagement the second Lieutenant of the Carcase

signalized his courage in a most desperate rencounter, in which,

however, he succeeded, though his life was in imminent danger.

On the 4th the carpenters, &c. were still employed in fitting up the

boats. The pilots, who the day before had been sent to make observations

on the islands already mentioned, made their report, that the nearest

water they had seen was about ten leagues to the westward; that in their

passage they had met with great numbers of spars or pine trees, floating

about the island, some of them of considerable size, with the bark

rotted off, and the bodies much worm-eaten; that there was neither tree

nor shrub to be seen growing on any of the seven islands, nor upon any

land that they had yet discovered in that latitude, nor for ten degrees

farther south, and that the trees they had seen must therefore have come

from a great distance.

Though there is nothing now in this observation, the like being annually

observed by all the navigators who frequent those seas in the summer,

and who collect their wood from those drifts, yet the country from

whence they proceed has hitherto been thought a mystery. But it being

now certain, that many of the great rivers that flow through the

northernmost parts of Russia, empty themselves into this sea; and that

there is an open communication throughout the different parts of it at

different seasons of the year, there seems very little reason to doubt,

but that those trees are torn up by land floods, and are precipitated

into the sea by the rapidity of the streams.

It has indeed been objected, that all the wood that is found floating in

this manner about the islands in high latitudes, is to a piece barked

and worm-eaten; and that if these trees were torn up and precipitated

into the sea in the manner above supposed, some of it would appear sound

and unbarked, as in its first state. To this it may be answered, that

were the course of the tides to run as constantly to the northward, as

the course of the rivers runs into the sea, this objection would be

unanswerable. But the very reverse is known to be the fact; and that

neither the winds nor the tides tend to the northwards for any

considerable part of the year; so that from the time these trees enter

the ocean, it must, in the ordinary course of things, be many ages

before they can reach the latitudes in which they are now found.

Because, if they are driven northwards by the strength of a storm from

the south, they will be driven in another direction by the next storm

that happens from another quarter; and all the while the calm continues,

they will be driven to and fro by the tides, which, as has been

observed, seldom set long to the north, therefore, being in continual

motion for ages, or being cast upon the shore by tempests, or high

tides, and lying there exposed to the air, till tempests or high tides

return them again to the ocean, they will, in a long progression of

time, be reduced to the state in which they are constantly found. This

solution is, however, offered with diffidence. The fact is certain, of

much wood being annually found about the islands in question; and it is

now of little importance from whence it proceeds, as a passage by the

north east to China will probably never more be sought.

On the 5th they had gentle breezes; but about four in the morning small

sleet. The ice still surrounding them, and appearing to grow more and

more solid and fixed, those who had till now retained hopes that the

south-east wind would again disunite its substance, and open a passage

for their deliverance, began to despair, as the wind had blown for

twenty-four hours from that quarter, from which alone they could have

relief, and not the least alteration to be perceived. The men, however,

were as joyous as ever, and shewed not the least concern about the

danger of their situation.

Early in the morning, the man at the mast-head of the Carcase gave

notice, that three bears were making their way very fast over the ice,

and that they were directing their course towards the ship. They had,

without question, been invited by the scent of the blubber of the

sea-horse killed a few days before, which the men had let on fire, and

which was burning on the ice at the time of their approach. They proved

to be a she-bear and her two cubbs; but the cubbs were nearly as large

as the dam. They ran eagerly to the fire, and drew out from the flames

part of the flesh of the sea-horse that remained unconsumed, and eat it

voraciously. The crew from the ship, by way of diversion, threw great

lumps of the flesh of the sea-horse which they had still left, out upon

the ice, which the old bear fetched away singly, laid each lump before

her cubbs as she brought it, and dividing it, gave each a share,

reserving but a small portion to herself. As she was fetching away the

last piece they had to bestow, they levelled their muskets at the cubbs,

and shot them both dead; and in her retreat, they also wounded the dam,

but not mortally. It would have drawn tears of pity from any but

unfeeling minds, to have marked the affectionate concern expressed by

this poor beast, in the dying moments of her expiring young. Tho’ she

was sorely wounded, and could but just crawl to the place where they

lay, she carried the lump of flesh she had fetched away, as she had done

the others before, tore it in pieces, and laid it down before them, and

when she saw that they refused to eat, she laid her paws first upon one,

and then upon the other, and endeavoured to raise them up. All this

while it was pitiful to hear her moan. When she found she could not stir

them, she went off, and when she had got at some distance, looked back

and moaned; and that not availing her to entice them away, she returned,

and smelling round them, began to lick their wounds. She went off a

second time, as before, and having crawled a few paces, looked again

behind her, and for some time stood moaning. But still her cubbs not

rising to follow her, she returned to them again, and with signs of

inexpressible fondness, went round one and round the other, pawing them,

and moaning. Finding at last that they were cold and lifeless, she

raised her head towards the ship, and, like Caliban in the tempest,

growled a curse upon the murderers, which they returned with a volley of

musket-balls. She fell between her cubbs, and died licking their wounds.

If what is related by a voyager of credit in the last century be true,

the filial fondness of these animals is no less remarkable than the

maternal. The young ones, says he, keep constantly close to the old

ones. We observed that two young ones and an old one would not leave one

another, for if one ran away, it turned back again immediately, as soon

as it did hear the others in danger, as if it would come to help them.

The old one ran to the young one, and the young one to the old one; and

rather than they would leave one another, they would suffer themselves

to be all killed.

Friday the 6th, the weather calm, but foggy, and the winds variable;

they discovered that the drift of the ship, with the whole body of ice,

inclined fast to the eastward; and that they were already embayed in the

very middle of the seven islands. They therefore sent off the pilots of

both ships, with a party of sailors, to the northernmost island, to see

what discoveries could be made from the promontories there. They

returned at night, after a fatiguing journey, with a dismal account,

that nothing was to be seen from thence but a vast continent of ice, of

which there was no end; and that the thought of wintering in such a

situation was more dreadful, than that of perishing by instant death.

Saturday 7, the wind set in north-north-east, veered to the north; to

the north-east and east, piercing cold. This day the boats were all

brought in readiness on the ice, fitted with weather cloaths about

thirteen inches above the gunnels, in order to keep off the cold as much

as possible, if by good fortune they should be enabled to launch them in

an open sea. This day was employed chiefly in boiling provisions to put

in the boats for the intended voyage; in delivering out bags to the men

to carry their bread, and in packing up such necessaries as every one

could take along with him, for now every man was to be his own porter,

the necessary provisions and liquors being found load enough for the

boats, and twenty-five days bread load enough for each man. This being

adjusted, when night approached they were all ordered on board to sleep.

Thursday 8, at six in the morning all hands were ordered to turn out,

and a detachment of fifty men from each ship, headed by their respective

officers, were appointed to begin the hard task of hawling the launces

along the ice. The bravest and gallantest actions performed in war, do

not so strikingly mark the true character of a sea Commander, as the

readiness and alacrity with which his orders are obeyed in times of

imminent danger. Every one now strove who should have the honour to be

listed in the band of haulers, of whom the Commodore took the direction,

leaving Capt. Lutwych to take care of both the ships, that if any

favourable turn should happen in the disposition of the ice, he might

make use of the remaining part of both the crews to improve it. Upon a

general consultation of officers, previous to this undertaking, it had

been agreed, and an order issued accordingly, that no person on board,

of whatever rank, should encumber himself with more cloaths than what he

wore upon his back. Upon this occasion, therefore, the officers dressed

themselves in flannels, and the common men put on the cloaths which the

officers had thrown off. It was inconceivably laughable to see these

motley bands yoked in their new harness; and, to say the truth, there

was not one solemn face among the two companies. That headed by the

Commodore drew stoutly for the honour of their leader, and that headed

by their Lieutenants had their music to play to them, that they might

dance it away, and keep pace with the Commander in chief. Indeed the

officers who headed them were deservedly beloved as well as their

Commanders, particularly Lieutenant Beard, whose steady and uniform

conduct in times of the greatest danger, cannot be sufficiently admired

or applauded. Neither swayed by passion, nor disconcerted by the sudden

embarrassments that often intervened, his conduct was always calm, and

his orders resolute. He never was heard, during the whole voyage on the

most pressing emergencies, to enforce his commands with an oath, or to

call a sailor by any other than his usual name; and so sensible were

they of his manly behaviour, that, when the ship was paid off at

Deptford, they were only prevented by his most earnest request from

stripping themselves to their shirts, to cover the streets with their

cloaths, that he might not tread in the dirt in going to take coach.

In six hours, with the utmost efforts of human labour, they had only

proceeded a single mile; and now it was time for them to dine, and

recruit their almost exhausted spirits. As the Commodore had laboured

with them, it was in character that he should dine with them also; and

an accident happened that made it necessary for him so to do. The Cook,

with his mates, (who were bringing the Commodore and the officers their

dinners under covers) to keep out the cold after coming from a warm

fire-side, had made a little too free with the brandy bottle before they

set out, and before they had got half way to the lances, the liquor

began to operate; the Cooks were sometimes very near boarding each

other, sometimes they hauled off, and sometimes steered right a-head. At

length coming to a chasm, or parting of the ice, which they were obliged

to leap, down came the master Cook, with dish, cover, meat and all; and

what was still worse, though it was not then thought of much value, the

Commodore’s common service of plate, which the Cook carried for the

officers to dine on, fell in the chasm, and instantly sunk to the

bottom. This accident brought the Cook a little to himself, and he now

stood pausing whether he should jump down the gulph after the plate, or

proceed to the Commodore to beg mercy and make his apology. His mates

persuaded him to the latter, as the Commodore was a kind-hearted gemman,

and would never take a man’s life away for a slip on the ice. Besides,

it was a great jump for a fat man, and Commodore, they were sure, had

rather lose all the plate in the great cabin, than lose Cookie.

Comforted a little by this speech, the Cook proceeded, but let his mates

go on first with what remained, to carry the tidings of what befell the

rest. When the Commodore had heard the story, he judged how it was with

them all. But where is the Cook, said he to the mates? He’s crying

behind, an please your Honour. In the mean time the Cook came up. Cook,

said the Commodore, bring me your dinner. I will dine to-day with my

comrades. My dinner! Ay, a pound of the flesh next my heart, if your

Honour likes it. The promptness of the reply shewed the sincerity of the

Cook’s good-will, and pleased the Commodore better than a feast upon

turtle. He dismissed him with a smile, and partook with the officers in

what was left, who made up their dinners with a mess from the common

men.

They had just begun to renew their labour, when word was brought, that

the whole body of ice had changed its situation, and was moving to the

westward; that the ships were both a-float; and that the ice was

parting. The joy which this news diffused through the two companies of

hawlers is easier to conceive than express. They instantly shook off

their harness, ran to assist in working the ships, and once more to

resume their proper employments. When they arrived at the ships, Captain

Lutwych, who was no less beloved by his men than the Commodore, had by

his example and his judicious directions done wonders. Both ships were

not only a-float, with their sails set, but actually cut and warped

through the ice near half a mile. This ray of hope, however, was soon

darkened; the body of ice suddenly assumed its former direction to the

eastward, and closed upon them again as fast as ever. While the ships

remained in the ice-dock, they were lashed together for their greater

security, but now being launched and a-float, the ice pressed upon them

with such weight, that it was every moment expected that the hawser

would break that held them together; orders were therefore given, that

the hawser should be slackened, and the ships released.

For the remainder of the evening, and till two in the morning, the drift

continued eastward, and all that while the ships were in danger of being

crushed by the closing of the channel in which they rode. They had now

drifted two miles to the eastward; the men were worn out with fatigue in

defending the ships with their ice-poles from being engulphed; and now

nothing but scenes of horror and perdition appeared before their eyes.

But the Omnipotent, in the very moment, when every hope of deliverance

from their own united endeavours had relinquished them, interposed in

their favours, and caused the winds to blow, and the ice to part in an

astonishing manner, rending and cracking with a tremendous noise,

surpassing that of the loudest thunder. At this very instant the whole

continent of ice, which before was extended beyond the reach of sight

from the highest mountains, moved together in various directions,

splitting and dividing into vast bodies, and forming hills and plains of

various figures and dimensions. All hearts were now again revived, and

the prospect of being once more released from the frozen chains of the

north inspired the men with fresh vigour. Every officer and every idler

on board laboured now for life. The sails were all spread, that the

ships might have the full advantage of the breeze to force them through

the channels that were already opened, and to help them, like wedges, to

rend the clefts that were but just cracking.

While the major part of the crews were employed in warping the ships

with ice-anchors, axes, saws and poles, a party from both ships were

dispatched to launch the boats. This was no easy task to accomplish. The

ice, though split in many thousand pieces, was yet frozen like an island

round the lances, and though it was of no great extent, yet the boats

were of a weight hardly to be moved by the small force that could be

spared to launch them. They were besides, by the driving of the ice, at

more than five miles distance from the ships; and at this time no

channels of communication were yet opened. But Providence was manifest

even on this occasion; for the island on which the lances stood, parted

while the men were hauling them, and by that lucky circumstance they

were launched with great facility, without the loss of a man, though the

ice cracked, as it were, under their feet.

The people on board had not been able to force their way with the ships

much more than a mile, when the party in the lances joined them. And

now, excited by what curiosity or instinct is not easy to determine,

several bears came posting over the ice to be spectators of their

departure, and advanced so near the ships, that they might have been

easily mastered, had not the men been more seriously employed.

This day they altered their soundings from thirty to fifty fathoms, and

from fifty to eighty and eighty-five fathoms.

The breeze continuing fresh from east-south-east and east, the ice

seemed to open as fast as it had before closed when the wind blew

westerly, and from the north; a strong presumptive proof of land to the

eastward, which stopping the current of the loose ice in driving from

the north and west, closes it in course, and renders it compact. On the

contrary, when the wind blows off the land, and the current sets to the

sea, the loose ice being no longer opposed, disperses itself again in

the ocean, where it again floats, till the same cause produces the same

effect. If therefore the land which our voyagers saw on the 30th, and

which they could not determine with certainty to be an island, should,

upon some future occasion, be discovered to be a continent, then the

closing of the loose ice so suddenly about the _seven islands_, and its

crouding one piece upon another to a great height, when violently

agitated by tempests from the north or west, will be fully and naturally

accounted for.

Tuesday the 10th, about two in the morning, the fog being thick, and the

weather calm, and the men very much fatigued, they were ordered to their

quarters, to refresh themselves with sleep. It was, besides, very cold,

and much rain fell; and as the wind was variable, they could make but

little progress. The ice, in the morning early, seemed rather to close

upon them, than to divide; and being apprehensive for their boats, they

attempted to hoist the lances on board, but that belonging to the

Carcase, being either too unweildy, or the men too much fatigued to

effect it, they slung her to the ship’s side.

About eight the breeze sprung up fresh from the north-east, exceedingly

cold, but opening the ice to the westward. They then made all the sail

they could, driving with the loosening ice, and parting it wherever it

was moveable with their whole force. Towards noon they lost sight of the

_Seven Islands_. And in a very little while after, to their great joy,

Spitsbergen was seen from the mast-head.

Wednesday 11, the men who, with hard labour, cold and watching, were

much dispirited, on the prospect of a speedy deliverance, and seeing the

ice no longer adhere in immoveable bodies, began, after a little

refreshment, to resume their wonted chearfulness. They had not till the

second closing of the ice, after the attempt to dig a passage through it

had proved ineffectual, and that the hauling the lances had been tried

with little better success, discovered the least despondency. But when

they had exerted their utmost efforts, and Providence, which at first

seemed to second their endeavours, appeared to have forsaken them; when

their pilots had filled their minds with the terrors of their situation;

and their officers had given the ships and their most valuable effects

over for lost, the men then began to reflect on the hardships they were

likely to suffer, and to be impressed with the sense of their common

danger. Their apprehensions, however, were but temporary, and the moment

they were released from their icey prison, and that they were within

sight of a clear sea, their sorrow was changed to mirth, and their

melancholy to rejoicing. Festivity and jolity took place of abstinence

and gloomy apprehensions; and before they arrived at Spitsbergen, there

was not a sailor on board with a serious face.

The ice that had parted from the main body, they had now time to admire.

As it no longer obstructed their course, the various shapes in which the

broken fragments appeared, were indeed very curious and amusing. One

remarkable piece described a magnificent arch so large and compleatly

formed, that a sloop of considerable burden might have sailed through it

without lowering her mast; another represented a church with windows and

pillars, and domes; and a third, a table with icicles hanging round it

like the fringes of a damask cloth. A fertile imagination might here

find entertainment enough for, as has already been observed, the

similitude of all that art or nature has ever yet produced, might here

be fancied.

They continued working all this day through the loose ice. Hacluit’s

Headland bearing south thirty-nine west, and in their course saw a Dutch

Greenlandman in the south-west quarter.

Thursday the 12th, they cleared the ice, and bore away with all sails

set for the harbour of Smearingburg, in which they had before cast

anchor. At two in the afternoon they anchored in North Bay, the north

part of Vogle Sound bearing north forty-five east, distance about four

miles. At half after four the Commodore made the signal to weigh; and at

half past nine, came to an anchor in their former station, where they

found four Dutch Greenlandmen lying in readiness to depart. These

Dutchmen acquainted the Commodore, that all the English fishing ships

set sail on the 10th of July, the day to which they are obliged by

contract, to stay to entitle their owners to receive the bounty-money,

allowed by Parliament for the encouragement of that fishery.

About the same time the greatest part of the Dutch set sail likewise

from Spitsbergen, on their voyage home; but it is a practice with these

last, to take it by turns to wait till the severity of the weather

obliges them to leave the coast, in order to pick up such men as may by

accident have lost their ships in the ice; and who, notwithstanding, may

have had the good fortune to save their lives by means of their boats.

This is a very humane institution, and does credit to the Dutch

Government. Did the British Government bear an equal regard for

individuals, so many valuable subjects would never be suffered to

migrate, as now annually hire ships to convey themselves to seek their

fortunes in new settlements. It is estimated, that twelve thousand at

least are yearly shipt off from Ireland, and not many less from England

and Scotland, yet no measures are thought necessary to be taken to

retain them at home.

The turn of waiting at Spitsbergen falls annually to the lot of about

five Dutch ships, who are obliged to send out their boats daily in

search of their unfortunate fellow subjects; some of these boats have

themselves suffered severely, and have been detained seven or eight days

by severe weather in these excursions, to the great anxiety of their

friends.

The day of our voyagers return to Smearingburg Harbour being fine, the

Commodore ordered a tent to be raised on the lower point to the

south-west, where there was a level plain for the space of two miles,

and where all the mathematical apparatus were again taken on shore for a

second trial.

They found, on the examination of the vibration of the pendulum, that it

differed from that at Greenwich by Harrison’s time-keeper, only two

seconds in forty-eight hours; which time-keeper, at their arrival at

Greenwich, varied only one second and a half from the time-pieces at the

observatory there. Mr. Robinson, who was articled to Commodore Phipps,

from Christ’s Hospital, and who does honour to that noble foundation,

was particularly careful to note the result of all the observations that

were made in this high latitude.

The ovens were also here taken on shore, and a considerable quantity of

good soft bread baked for the refreshment of the men.

Hacluit’s Headland, of which mention has been frequently made in the

course of this voyage, is an island on the north-west point of

Spitsbergen, about fifteen miles in circumference, on which is found

plenty of scurvy-grass; and in the valleys, some of which extend from

two to three miles, there is store of other grass in summer, on which

the deer is supposed to feed.

The people were now fully employed in overhauling the rigging, tarring

the ships sides, taking in water, peying and securing the masts, and in

preparing the ships for pursuing their voyage upon discovery; or, if

that was found impracticable, for returning home.

On the 16th, two of the Dutch ships weighed anchor, and sailed away in

company.

On the 17th, vast pieces of broken ice, supposed to have fallen from the

Icebergs, came floating into harbour. When these pieces, which are

undermined by the continual agitation of the sea in stormy weather, lose

their support, they tumble with a crack that surpasses the loudest

thunder; but they were told, that no other thunder was ever heard in

this latitude.

The activity and enterprizing spirit of the Russians already noticed,

begin to manifest itself every where, and it is not improbable, but that

the maritime powers may one day or other have cause to repent their

emulation in contributing to aggrandize the naval power of that

increasing people. The dominions of the Russian empire, are situated to

command the trade of the universe; they are now actually erecting a yard

for building ships at Kampschatka, to improve their discoveries from

that quarter, and to open a trade from thence to China. They have

attempted to settle colonies, as our voyagers were told, on the

southernmost districts of Spitsbergen, and those of the new settlers,

who survived the first winter, were preparing to encounter the rigour of

the climate in a second. This can only be done by way of experiment, to

try if a settlement is practicable, for those now sent are said to be

criminals.

During the six days which the ships anchored here to make observations,

take in water, refresh the men, and refit, our journalist made several

excursions to the adjoining islands, where the birds appeared in

astonishing numbers; it being the season for bringing forth their young,

and teaching them to fly, and to dive.

Of all the birds that breed in these islands, the burgermaster is the

largest, and the most ravenous; he is so called by the Dutch, from his

size and his authority, as he holds all the other birds in subjection.

His bill is long and crooked, rather like that of the stork, than that

of the hawk, and is of a yellow colour. He has a red ring about his

eyes; is web footed, but has but three claws on each foot. His wings are

of a beautiful pearl colour, edged with white; his back a silver grey;

his body white as snow, and his tail of the same colour, which when he

flies he spreads like a fan. He builds his nest very high in the rocks,

inaccessible either to bears or foxes. He preys upon all the other

birds, and eats the carrion of fish or flesh, or whatever comes in his

way. His cry is horrible, and when he screams, the mallemuch, a bird as

large as a duck, is so much intimidated, that she will sink down, and

suffer him to devour her without opposition.

Our journalist found it very dangerous to pursue his way over the hills

and precipices in this rugged country. The clefts on the mountains are

like those in the ice frequently impassable; but they are abundantly

more hazardous, being sometimes concealed under the snow, so that a

traveller is engulphed before he is aware. Many have been entombed in

these clefts; and perished in the hearing of their companions, without a

possibility of relief. To a contemplative mind, however, even the

deformities of nature, are not unpleasing, the wisdom of the Creator

being manifest in all his works.

On the 19th of August the ships unmoored, and on the twentieth they

cleared the harbour. They found the tide to flow north-east and

south-west, and to rise three feet seven inches perpendicular height.

On the 22d they again found themselves beset with loose ice. They were

then in latitude 80 degrees 14 minutes north, longitude 5 degrees 44

minutes east.

On the 22d they had a heavy sea from the south-west quarter.

On the 23d the Carcase, being a heavier sailer than the Race Horse, lost

sight of the Commodore, and fired a six-pounder, which was answered. In

the evening they came in sight, and pursued their course with favourable

weather, and without any thing worthy of notice happening till

September 5, when, being clear and calm weather, the Commodore sounded,

and found ground with seven hundred fathoms, very soft mud. The people

were employed eight hours in heaving up the lead with the capstan. At

three in the morning the sun risen, took the amplitude, and found the

variation to be 22 degrees 53 minutes west.

September 7, at five in the afternoon, they had heavy squalls, with

rain; at seven in the morning moderate weather. This day, in 60 degrees

15 minutes west, they found their longitude, corrected by observation of

sun and moon, to be 5 degrees 59 minutes east. Longitude by time-keeper

4 degrees 45 minutes east; a very remarkable difference.

The ships pursued their course home in company together, with high seas

and variable weather, till

Sept. 11, when, at half after ten, the night dark, and the weather

moderate, the wind all at once veered to the southward, and a strong

gale with a great sea came on. The ships parted, and never more came in

sight till they met off Harwich, on the English coast.

Our journalist being on board the Carcase, can now only relate what

happened to that sloop, till her arrival in the River Thames.

When the gale came on, the Commodore’s lights not appearing, the Carcase

fired a six-pounder, but that shot not being returned by the Race Horse,

it was concluded, that the Commodore was at too great a distance to hear

the signal. At four in the morning the gale increasing, they close

reefed the top-sails, and employed all hands in lashing and securing the

boats and booms, and preparing to withstand the threatening storm. At

this time they were in lat. 57 deg. 44 min. north; the Naze of Norway

bearing south eighty-eight east, distant thirty-one leagues.

Sunday, September 12, fresh gales, with frequent showers of rain; handed

gib and stay-sail; at two in the afternoon hard squalls and violent

showers of rain; handed fore and mizen top-sail; saw a sail to southward

standing to eastward; cloudy and obscure sky at ten at night came on

suddenly a very heavy squall; handed all the top-sails; strong gale,

with severe showers of rain. At midnight blowing a violent storm of

wind, reefed and handed the main-sail and fore-sail; lowered down the

lower yards, balanced the mizen, and laid the ship too under it, with

her head to the westward; the sea making a free passage over the ship.

Shipped such heavy seas, washed all the provisions and casks that were

lashed on the deck, over board; kept two pumps continually going;

obliged to skuttle the boats, to prevent their being washed over-board.

At four in the morning shipped such heavy seas, as washed all the booms

and spars that had been with all possible care secured on the deck,

over-board. The ship mostly under water. No sight of the Commodore;

under great apprehensions for his safety, as his vessel laboured much

more than ours. At this time one of the mates, the carpenter, and a

fore-mast-man, were washed over-board. The carpenter, a very careful

sober man, who was in the waste, securing the hatches and stores, was

washed in and out at the ports three times, before he could secure

himself. At ten in the morning rather moderate. Set the mizen-stay-sail;

swayed the lower yards up, and set the courses. At half past eleven,

strong squalls and heavy gusts; handed both courses; and settled the

lower yards.

September 13, strong gales and squally. Continually shipping heavy seas.

At three in the afternoon rather more moderate; set reef courses; swayed

up the lower yards, and set the main-top-sail. The ship now making no

water; at seven in the evening set fore-top-sail and gib; very heavy sea

from south-west quarter. At eight in the evening moderate and cloudy;

let the third reef out of the main-top-sail; sounded thirty-five fathoms

fine brown sand. At one in the morning light airs, hazey weather, and

great sea. Wore ship, and stood to westward. At four fresh breezes, with

rain. At half past eight saw a sail to eastward; supposing it the

Commodore, made the private signal, and fired a six-pounder. At nine

bore down upon her, and brought her to. She proved a Hollander from

Archangel, bound to Bremen. Course south forty-two west, latitude

fifty-six deg. four min. north.

September 14, strong gales, and cloudy; under reef courses. At two in

the afternoon moderate; set main-top-sail. At three set fore-top-sail; a

great sea from westward. At seven in the evening moderate and cloudy.

Out the third reef of the main-top-sail; uncertain weather; squally, and

at times much rain; at three great fog. This day, at noon,

Flamborough-head south forty-six west, distance thirty leagues.

September 15, light breezes, and clear weather; out all reefs, and

swayed up the lower yards. At four in the afternoon saw a sail to

south-east; bore down, and brought her to. She proved to be a Prussian

fisherman, had been ten days from Edinburgh; hoisted out the small

cutter; the second Lieutenant went on board of her, and bought a fine

cargo of fish. At five the boat returned; we hoisted her on board, with

plenty of mackarel and herrings. Made sail, and stood to south-west;

sounded every half hour; found from thirteen to fifteen, and eighteen

fathoms, fine brown sand, mixed with black shells. At seven in the

evening took the first reef, and hauled in the top-sails; fresh gales,

and cloudy. At two in the morning deepened in water to twenty fathom.

Took in second reef of the top-sails; tacked ship, and stood to

north-west. At five in the morning got into fifteen fathom; and at seven

into ten. At nine in the morning close reefed the top-sails, and at ten

handed them; very fresh gale, and violent rain.

September 16, rather more moderate; set the main-top-sail; squally, with

rain; a confused sea from west-north-west. At five in the afternoon

soundings from five to twelve, from twenty-seven to thirty-two and

thirty-four fathoms, fine brown sand, black specks, fresh gales, and

cloudy. At eight took in first and second reefs of top-sails; at eleven

at night close reefed the main and fore-top-sail, and handed the mizen;

fresh gales, and cloudy weather. At four in the morning shoaled water to

twenty-two fathoms; brown sand and broken shells. At five saw several

sail to north-west; fired, and brought one of them to. At eight shook

the first and second reefs out of the top-sail; hove down upon a sloop,

which came from Gravesend; took on board the master, as a pilot to carry

the ship through Yarmouth Roads; put on board one man in his room, and

ordered his vessel to follow us. Stood to the southward.

September 17, fresh breezes, and cloudy weather; kept the lead going

every half hour; found our sounding from ten to twelve fathoms, fine

brown sand. At six in the afternoon fresh gales; close reefed the

main-top-sail; soundings from ten to sixteen fathom; broken shells and

large stones. At seven close reefed the main-top-sail; kept a light in

the poop-lanthorn for the sloop. At ten strong gales; handed the

top-sails; laid her to under the main-sail; handed the fore-sail. At

eleven at night got into five fathom; but deepened to eight, nine, and

ten fathom, brown sand. Lost sight of the fishing vessel; fired several

guns, and made a signal in the mizen-shroud. On setting the

fore-top-sail stacil, it blew to pieces; bent a new one. A violent gale

of wind; shipped a great quantity of water. At four rather moderate; set

the fore-sail. At midnight set close; reefed top-sails. At half past six

tacked; at seven saw the fishing vessel; bore down and spoke with her,

who had split her main-sail in the night. At ten saw the land bearing

south-west by west, and south and by west. At eleven being clear and

moderate weather, shook all the reefs out of the top-sails, and set the

top-gallant-sail; saw Cromer light-house, bearing south 55 degrees west,

distance five leagues.

September 19, fresh breezes and clear weather; bent the sheet-cable, and

hauled a range of the best and small bower-cables; bent both buoy ropes

and buoys to the anchor. At five light breezes and fair; tacked and

stood to the southward. At six tacked and stood to the north-west.

Cramer north-west and by north four miles; light breezes, and pleasant

weather; handed in top-gallant-sails, and handed the main-sail. At seven

in the evening, to our great joy, saw Yarmouth Church, bearing

south-west. At ten at night came to anchor with the best bower in twelve

fathom, fine sand and clay; veered out to half a cable, and handed all

the sails. Winterstone Ness lights bore south and by west four miles. At

two in the morning fresh breezes and cloudy. At half past four weighed,

and made sail. Employed in working from Winterstone Ness lights, to

Yarmouth Roads, making several tacks. At seven in the morning set

top-gallant-sails; at nine came to an anchor in Yarmouth Road, with best

bower in seven fathoms water; sand and clay. Yarmouth church south

fifteen west, distance two miles. Came on board a pilot to carry the

ship to the Nore.

September 20, fresh breezes and clear weather; sent down

top-gallant-yards, and got every thing clear for striking tokens. At

five in the afternoon moored the ship. Yarmouth church west-south-west

two miles.

September 21, fresh gales and cloudy, with frequent rain. At four in the

afternoon sent down top-gallant-mast. At eight in the morning sent the

long-boat on shore for water. We were this day visited by several of the

inhabitants of Norwich and Yarmouth, who were genteelly entertained by

the officers, but we could get no intelligence of the Commodore.

September 23, dark cloudy weather. At six in the evening swayed up the

top-mast, and lower yards; the wind veered to north-west, we prepared to

unmoor. Fresh gales, with frequent flashes of lightning. At seven in the

morning set on top-gallant-mast, and began to unmoor. At eight veered

away upon the best bower, and took up the small bower-anchor. At nine

weighed and made sail. At ten got up the top-gallant-yards, in company

with several ships.

Saturday 25, at five came to an anchor in eleven fathoms. Orford

light-house east by south four miles. This day some religious books were

distributed among the sailors, which had been sent on board by some

pious person for their particular perusal.

Sunday 26. At six in the evening came to with the best bower in seven

fathoms water; Balsey church west by south. At two in the morning

weighed, and came to sail; Harwich lights north-west by west. To their

great surprise, saw the Race Horse at anchor. Hoisted out the cutter,

and Capt. Lutwidge waited on the Commodore, from whom he learnt, that in

the storm of the twelfth they had all their boats washed over-board;

and, to ease the ship, were obliged to heave all their guns over-board,

except two. Came to anchor; Harwich church north-west.

Monday 27, at two in the afternoon weighed, and came to sail in company

with the Race Horse. At eight in the evening came to in the Swin. At

five in the morning weighed, in company as before. Turning up the Swin

at half past nine, came to; Whitaker Beacon north-north-east one mile.

Tuesday 28, fresh breezes and cloudy weather. At half past three

weighed, and came to sail. At half past six came to with the best bower

in six fathom water; Shoe Beacon north-west. At half past five weighed,

and came to sail. Working to windward at eleven in the forenoon, the

Commodore’s boat came on board, with orders to proceed to Deptford. At

noon came to at the Nore with the best bower.

Wednesday 29, light breezes and fair weather. At half past five weighed,

and made sail. Employed in working up the river. At half past ten came

to with the best bower in the gallions, in three fathoms water. Woolwich

church north by south one half east. At noon a hoy came along-side for

the gunner’s stores.

Thursday 30, employed most of the afternoon in getting out the guns, and

gunner’s stores. At nine in the evening weighed, and came to sail. At

ten run foul of a large transport, and carried away the lar-board

mizen-shrouds, and part of the channel. At one in the morning came to

anchor at Deptford. Warped along-side the Bedford Hulk, and moored. At

six unbent the sails, and began to unrig.

Thus ended a voyage, which seems to have determined the question so much

agitated concerning the navigation to the north pole, and proved what

Captain Wood had before asserted, that no passage would ever be found

practicable in that direction.

From the quantities of ice which that navigator met with in latitude 76

north, longitude [missing number] east, he concluded indeed erroneously,

that the 80th degree would bound the passage towards the poles, and that

from thence the polar region was either a continued continent of solid

ice, or that land filled up the intermediate space.

It has been found, however, that those seas are navigable as far as

between the eighty-first and eighty-second degrees of latitude; and it

may possibly happen, that in some future years, they may be found

navigable a degree or two farther: but it may now with certainty be

concluded, that a course under the pole can never be pursued for the

purpose of commerce.

We have already shewn incontestibly, that the north sea communicates

with the eastern sea, and that the passage to China and Japan may be

performed with difficulty by a north-east course, by watching the

opportunity, when a few days in the year the north sea is open. But who

would think of exposing a ship’s company to the hazard of being frozen

to death in a tedious, uncertain, and dangerous passage, when a safe,

certain, and, one may say, speedy passage at all times lies open before

them.

From Behring’s discoveries to the east of Japan, and from the continent

he there met with, there seems reason to believe, that the land seen by

Commodore Phipps to the eastward of the Seven Islands, might be a

continuation of that continent. In that case it is not improbable, but

that either that continent may join to the western part of America, or

that it may extend southward, and form a part of that continent so much

sought after in the southern hemisphere.

A small premium of two or three thousand pounds secured by Parliament,

to be paid to the owner or owners of any Greenland fishing ship, that

should be fortunate enough to discover such a continent to the eastward

or northward of the _Seven Islands_, might possibly have a better

effect, than many expensive expeditions fitted out solely for the

purposes of such discovery. This, by a trading nation, were it only to

improve the science of geography, would surely be well bestowed.

It is true, indeed, that the reward secured by parliament for the

discovery of a north-west passage, has not yet been attended with that

success, with which the promoters of the bill had flattered themselves

and the public, from the liberal spirit with which it was granted.

The Hudson’s Bay Company, though bound by their charter to further and

promote the discovery, were generally suspected, from interested

motives, to oppose and discourage every attempt to accomplish it. And

Captain Middleton, who in 1740 was sent in a king’s ship upon that

service, returning without success, was publicly charged with having

received a bribe of five thousand pounds to defeat the undertaking, and

by his report to discourage any farther attempts in pursuit of it. This

charge was strongly supported, and generally credited. And Mr. Dobbs, by

whose interest Captain Middleton was employed, had the address to

prevail with the then ministry, to preclude any future scheme of private

corruption, by promoting the public reward already mentioned.

The preamble to the act will state this matter in the true light it lets

forth, “That whereas the discovery of a north-west passage through

Hudson’s Streight to the western ocean would be of great benefit and

advantage to this kingdom, and that it would be of great advantage to

the adventurers to attempt the same, if a public reward was given to

such persons as should make a perfect discovery of the said passage; it

is therefore enacted, that if any ships or vessels belonging to his

majesty’s subjects shall find out and sail through any passage by sea

between Hudson’s bay and the western ocean of America, the owners of

such ships or vessels shall be entitled to receive as a reward for such

discovery the sum of TWENTY-THOUSAND POUNDS.” And as a farther

encouragement to prosecute this discovery, and to prevent obstructions

from interested persons, it was enacted, “that all persons, subjects of

his Majesty, residing in any place where the said adventurers may come

in the prosecution of this discovery, shall give the said adventurers

all assistance, and shall no way obstruct, molest, or refuse the said

adventurers reasonable succour in any distress they may fall into in the

prosecution of this discovery.”

Such was the encouragement, and such the liberal reward that was and is

secured by parliament to the fortunate discoverers of a north-west

passage to the great pacific ocean; a passage which, it is generally

believed, would open a trade with nations on the northern continent of

America, wholly unknown to the maritime powers of Europe, and supposed,

from their situation, to abound in commodities equally rare and precious

with those of any other country under the sun.

The fair prospect of acquiring fame by enlarging commerce, the hope of

obtaining the parliamentary reward, and the desire of exposing the

dis-ingenuity of Captain Middleton, were incitements sufficient to

prevail with Mr. Dobbs to sollicit the equipment of two ships for

another voyage, which he made not the least doubt would find out the

passage so long sought for in vain, and by the advantages attending the

discovery, exceed the most sanguine expectations of the adventurers.

The command of this expedition was given to Captain Ellis, who, on the

31st of May, 1746, passed Yarmouth in the Dobb’s Galley, accompanied by

the California Sloop, and convoyed to the north sea by the Loo man of

war. But in proportion as Mr. Dobbs had flattered the avarice of the

adventurers who were to share in the reward, and had elated himself with

the thoughts of triumphing over the disgrace of Captain Middleton, so it

happened, that when the ships returned without having effected any one

thing of consequence, the chagrin of the former for having advanced

their money on a visionary project, and the mortification of the latter

in not being able to support his charge, were increased by every

circumstance that could aggravate the disappointment. Captain Middleton

now triumphed in his turn, and no ship from England has since been

induced to undertake the voyage, notwithstanding the greatness of the

reward.

It is now, however, believed, that Government have in contemplation

another voyage to the north, to which that of Captain Phipps was only

the prelude; but there is reason to conclude, from what has already been

said of these latter attempts, and from the ill success of former

undertakings, that the discovery of a north-west passage is not the sole

object in view. The figure of the earth, the phenomena of the winds, the

variation of the compass, and the attraction of the magnet, are points

yet unsettled, of infinite importance to navigation; and it is not

impossible, but that a more careful examination of the polar regions may

lead to the solution of problems, that have hitherto baffled the

enquiries of the ablest navigators.

A very slender acquaintance with the difficulties and hardships

attending northern discoveries, will fully account for our knowledge of

the countries surrounding the pole being still very imperfect. A brief

recapitulation of the sufferings of those to whom we are most indebted

for our information, will not, we hope, be thought an improper

conclusion to a voyage solely undertaken with a view to enlarge it.

The first who conceived the idea of exploring the northern regions was

Sebastian Cabbot. That enterprizing navigator, long before Magellan

thought of a passage to the pacific ocean by the south-west, had made

two voyages, with a view to direct his course to the same sea by the

north-west. In these voyages, he discovered Newfoundland, the coast of

the Esquimeaux Indians, and had penetrated as far as the 64th degree of

latitude, when a mutiny among his men, or rather an obstinate refusal to

proceed any further, obliged him to return; yet he died in the

persuasion that a passage in that direction certainly existed, and that

he should have found it but for the opposition of his crew.

The next, who, prepossessed with the same notion, undertook a voyage for

discoveries towards the north, was Sir Martin Forbisher. He discovered

Greenland, and in the latitude of 62 deg. north, passed a streight,

which, though it still holds a place in our maps, has never been found

navigable since. He made two other voyages, discovered many bays and

capes, to which he gave names, but returned without attaining the

principal object of his voyage, though, like his predecessor, he

asserted the certainty of its existence to his latest hour.

To him succeeded Sir Humphry Gilbert, who in 1583 traversed the coast of

Labradore, entered the mouth of the great river St. Laurence, and,

surrounding the island of Newfoundland, laid the foundation of the cod

fishery, which has been prosecuted with immense advantage to his country

ever since.

The rapid progress of discoveries in the southern hemisphere, which

about this time were attended with vast profit to the adventurers,

re-animated cotemporary navigators to prosecute, with more ardour than

ever, their enterprizes towards the north. The more the pacific ocean

became known, the firmer the belief prevailed, that a passage into it by

way of the north must certainly exist, and that whoever could discover

it, would not only immortalize his name, but enrich his country.

The merchants of that time were no less eager to embark their money,

than the navigators were to hazard their persons in any new project,

where the hope of gain appeared to be well founded. A company therefore

of wealthy persons in London agreed to join a company of merchants in

the west, and to fit out two ships for the discovery of a passage, which

all agreed was practicable, though none could tell readily where to find

it. To the command of this expedition Captain John Davis was strongly

recommended as an able navigator, and of a bold and enterprising spirit.

Accordingly, on the 7th of June, 1585, he set sail from Dartmouth, in

the Sunshine of fifty tons, and accompanied by the Moonshine of

thirty-five tons, having on board both vessels forty-two hardy seamen.

On the 19th of July they were alarmed by a mighty roaring, which was the

more terrible, as the fog was so thick, that they could not see each

other at a ship’s length. It proved only the crackling of the islands of

ice, which was not then very well understood. On the breaking up of the

fog they discovered land, which, from its horrid appearance, they named

_the land of desolation_. On the 24th they were in 64 deg. 15 min.

north, the sea open and the weather moderate. In this latitude they

discovered land, and conversed with the natives, who appeared to be a

harmless hospitable people, polite in their manners, neatly habited, and

not ill-favoured. These friendly people, observing that the English

admired their furs, went up in the country to bring down more, with

which they traded with much simplicity. To an adjoining hill Davis gave

the name of Mount Raleigh, from which he took his departure on the 8th

of August, and on the 11th doubled the southernmost cape in view, to

which he gave the name of the _Cape of God’s Mercy_, and entered a

streight, which bears the name of the Discoverer to this day. In this

streight he sailed sixty leagues, and on the 14th went on shore, and

found evident signs of human inhabitants, being met by a pack of dogs

(twenty in number) that expressed their joy, as if their masters had

been returned after an interval of absence. One of those had on a

leathern collar. The Captain was highly pleased with the promising

appearance of the new streights, and consulting with the master, agreed

to report, upon their return home, that they had found the wished-for

passage to the western sea.

The weather changing from temperate to excessive cold, on the 20th it

was resolved to set sail for England. On the 12th of September they fell

in with the land of Desolation, and on the 30th of the same month

entered the port of Dartmouth, without the loss of a man.

The account Captain Davis gave to his owners was so well received, that

other merchants were desirous of joining in a second expedition, and

accordingly he was again employed, and furnished with a much greater

force.

On the 7th of May he sailed from Dartmouth in the Mermaid, of 120 tons,

in company with the Sunshine and Moonshine as before, and an additional

pinnace of thirteen tons, called the North Star.

In the latitude of 60 degrees north Captain Davis divided his force,

ordering the Sunshine and North Star to seek a passage between Greenland

and Iceland, while the Mermaid and Moonshine continued their course to

the streight as before. In the latitude of 64 degrees, and longitude 58

deg. 30 min. north from London, they fell again in with the land, and

met the same people with whom they had traded the former year. Overjoyed

to meet, they renewed their acquaintance, and while the English was

preparing a pinnace to facilitate their discoveries, the natives came in

numbers to carry on trade. As soon as the pinnace was fitted for sea,

Captain Davis dispatched her to examine the inlets on the coast, and to

trace their course up the main land; but that was productive of no

essential discovery.

Though the natives attended them with an obsequious diligence, yet on

their kindling a fire in their manner, and using some strange

ceremonies, Captain Davis supposing them to be using idolatrous

sorceries, first thrust the priest into the smoke, and then encouraged

his men to tread out the flame, and to spurn the reeking coals into the

sea. Unable to bear the insult, the natives for the first time began to

shew resentment. They seized the boat from the stern of the Moonshine,

cut the cable belonging to the Mermaid, made prize of the implements

that lay upon the shore, and, in short, declared open hostilities

against the aggressors, who in return discharged their artillery among

them, which instantly dispersed them.

No civilities, however, that could be shewn them, after the indignity

offered to their priest, could ever after reconcile them, and the year

following they found an opportunity to take a severe revenge. In the

mean time one of them being made prisoner, was taken on board the

Mermaid; who, after recovering his fright, trimmed up his darts,

repaired his fishing tackle, picked okam, and set his hand to any thing

he was set about; and, after a time, became a very pleasant companion on

board.

On the 17th of July, in latitude 63 degrees 8 min. north, they fell in

with a continent of ice, very high, like land, with bays and capes, and,

till they examined it closely, could not be convinced that it was a mere

congelation. They coasted it till the 30th, when the weather became so

tempestuous and foggy, and withal so cold, that the shrouds, ropes, and

sails were frozen and glazed with ice; and the men, who the year before

found the sea open and the weather temperate, became so dispirited, that

in an orderly manner they addressed their Commander, and intreated him

to consider their present situation, to have regard to his own life, and

the preservation of theirs; and not, through boldness and an indiscreet

zeal for a hopeless discovery, leave their widows and fatherless

children to blacken his memory with bitter curses. Moved with their

pitiable representation, he discharged the Mermaid with those who were

most desirous of returning home, and proceeded in the Moonshine to

prosecute his voyage. Changing his course to recover the opposite shore

on the 1st of August, in latitude 66 deg. 33 min. north, and longitude

70 degrees west, he discovered land, without either ice or snow. On the

2d they cast anchor in a fine road, and in a day or two were visited by

the natives, who came to traffic. On the 14th they set sail to the

westward, and on the 16th changed their course to the southward. On the

18th they discovered a high promontory to the north-west, which having

no land to the south, recovered their hopes of a free passage.

On doubling the Cape, they found the land trending away to the south in

broken islands, and coasting along till they arrived at a fine opening,

in latitude 57 degrees, they sailed ten leagues, with woods and lawns on

each side, abounding with deer and game of every kind. Here they staid

till the 1st of September, and then set sail, coasting along to the

northward, where they were again flattered with the hopes of a passage,

by observing a strong current rushing in between two lands to the

westward, which they were very desirous of approaching, but the wind

blew directly against them.

On the 6th, returning to their former station, five of the crew fell

into an ambuscade; for having ventured on shore unarmed in their boat,

they were suddenly assaulted from the woods, two of them killed upon the

spot, two grievously wounded, and the fifth made his escape by swimming,

with an arrow sticking in his arm. The same evening a furious storm

arose, which lasted till the 10th, in which time they in a manner

unrigged their ship, and were about to cut away her masts by the board,

the cable of their sheet anchor parted, and they every moment expected

to be dashed upon the rocks, and to be made a prey by the savage

cannibals of the country; but the storm abating, and the sea growing

calm, they recovered their anchor on the 11th, and made sail for

England.

About the beginning of October they arrived at Dartmouth, where they

found the Sunshine, but the North Star having parted company in a hard

gale on the coast of Greenland, was never more heard of.

This undaunted mariner had yet the courage to undertake a third voyage,

and then sailed as far as the 73d degree of north latitude, but being

deserted by his companions, was forced to return in great distress to

his old port. Upon his return he wrote a letter to his patron, assuring

him, that he had found an open sea in latitude 73 degrees north, and a

streight forty leagues broad, and concluded from thence that the passage

was most certain.

From this period till the year 1610 we find no farther attempts made to

revive this discovery; but in that year Mr. Henry Hudson, one of the

most celebrated mariners of his time, was prevailed upon to undertake a

voyage that was purposely set on foot to make trial of his skill. He

sailed April the 7th, 1610, steering directly to Davis’s Streights, he

there changed his course to the westward, and struck out a new track

that no mariner had ever sailed before, which led him through the

streight that still bears his name into the great bay that bounds the

American continent on the north-east, and seems to communicate by

various openings with the north sea. Here he continued traversing for

almost three months in search of a passage to the westward, but finding

himself embayed, he stood to the south, intending to winter in the

mildest latitude the Bay would admit; accordingly, he is said to have

wintered in latitude 52 degrees north, longitude 80 degrees west, where

on the 1st of November his ship was frozen in, and being scantily

provided with provisions, the crew mutinied, and in the end most

barbarously contrived, as the writer expresses it, to turn the Captain,

the carpenter, and all the sick men out of the ship, who were never more

heard of. After which the leaders of the mutiny determined to make the

best of their way for England; but in their passage home not a few

perished, and those who survived suffered unspeakable misery.

But notwithstanding this disaster, and that it was certainly known that

the Captain and all who were left behind were either drowned, starved,

or murdered, the progress he had made in the discovery encouraged others

to follow his track.

The next who adventured was Captain Button, a man of great abilities,

courage, and experience. Patronized by Henry, Prince of Wales, he sailed

in 1611, and having passed Hudson’s Streights, pursued a different track

from that of Captain Hudson, leaving his discoveries to the south, and

shaping his course to the north-west.

After sailing more then two hundred leagues, he fell in with a large

continent, which, from its mountainous appearance, he named New Wales;

but finding no passage to the westward, he followed the direction of the

land to the southward, till he arrived at Port Nelson, where he wintered

in 63 deg. 30 min. north; but, though he kept three fires in his ship

constantly burning, and his company killed incredible numbers of white

partridges and other wild fowl, yet many of his men perished by the

severity of the cold, which in that climate was almost insupportable.

In 1615 Captain William Baffin undertook the examination of the

extremity of that sea into which Davis’s Streights opened a passage, and

he so far succeeded, as to determine its extent, and to discover an

outlet marked in our maps, by the name of Sir Thomas Smith’s Sound,

which is probably the only communication between our northern bays and

the great pacific ocean, which nature has provided, in order to maintain

a general circulation, without which it is hardly possible to conceive,

that the equipoise of the globe could for a moment be preserved.

In 1619 Captain John Munk, at the instance of his Danish Majesty,

undertook this discovery, and arrived safe at Cape Farewell, where,

though the tackle of the ship was so frozen and full of isicles, that

the mariners could not handle the ropes, yet next day it was so hot,

that they were forced to work in their shirts. He entered Hudson’s

Streight in the month of July, and was forced to winter in latitude 63

degrees 20 min. north, on an island that still retains his name; but the

hardships he endured almost exceed belief. In May, 1620, he found

himself alone in a cave dug in the earth, scarce alive, and almost

morally certain, that all his mariners were dead. As soon as the weather

would permit he crawled forth, and found, of all his crew, only two

left. By removing the snow, they found some fresh herbs underneath, and

by eating them, recovered from the scurvy. Unable to navigate their

ships, they abandoned her to the savages, and, by a wonderful

providence, got safe to Norway in the Pinnace. Being a man of uncommon

resolution, he was still sollicitous to perfect a discovery, which had

baffled the researches of so many able navigators, and to acquire glory,

by accomplishing that which they had failed to attain. He asserted the

existence of such a passage so confidently, and laid down the method of

finding it so plausibly, that he had persuaded the merchants of Norway

to raise a joint stock to defray the expences of a second voyage; but

applying to the King for his permission and protection, and relating to

him his own sufferings, and those of his companions in his former

voyage, his Majesty told him, he had already been the death of too many

of his subjects, and wondered at his presumption to seek to murder more.

To which Monk gave a quick reply, which provoked the King to strike him

over his stomach with his cane. Whether the severity of the blow, or the

sense of the indignity was the occasion, is not certain; but he quitted

the royal presence with marks of strong resentment, and returning to his

chamber, refused assistance, and three days after breathed his last.

Capt. Luke Fox and Capt. James were the next who professedly engaged in

this discovery; the first in a King’s frigate, victualled for eighteen

months; the other in a small vessel of seventy tons, built at Bristol on

purpose; victualled and equipped by private adventurers.

Captain Fox departed in the spring of 1631, traced all the western bays

discovered by former navigators, examined the westermost part of

Hudson’s Bay, and returned in 1632. He published a pompous account of

his discoveries, which, however, was never much regarded.

On the 3d of May, 1631, Captain James set sail from the Severn’s mouth,

and on the 29th of June cleared Hudson’s Streights, where he found

himself so pestered with broken ice, as to put it out of his power to

prosecute his discoveries to the north-westward, as he had intended; he

therefore ordered his master to steer west south-west, and on the 27th

of July, after sustaining most dreadful shocks, found his ship enclosed

so fast among the ice, that notwithstanding it blew a hard gale, and all

sails set, she stirred no more than if she had been in a dry dock. It

was now that the men first began to murmur, and the Captain himself was

not without his fears, lest they should here be frozen up and obliged to

winter in the middle of the sea. By an observation which they made upon

the ice, they found that they were in latitude 58 deg. 54 min. north.

On the 5th of next month to their great joy the ice opened, and on the

6th they were again in a clear sea. On the 13th, seeing some breakers

a-head, and looffing to clear them, the ship suddenly struck upon the

rocks, and received three dreadful shocks, but the swell heaved her

over, and on pumping she made no water.

They were now encumbered with rocks, as before they had been with ice,

and in the most perilous situation that can be conceived, and so

continued two nights and two days, every moment expecting to be dashed

to pieces. On the fog’s clearing up they saw land from the north-west to

the south-east by east, with rocks and breakers. On the 16th they

weighed and made sail, when a storm arose and drove them within sight of

Port Nelson. On the 17th they stood to the southward. On the 20th they

made land, in latitude 57 degrees north, where they cast anchor, call’d

it the Principality of South Wales.

Having weighed, on the 27th they set sail, and in the evening came in

sight of higher land.

On the 29th they saw a sail, which proved to be Captain Fox, already

mentioned. They spoke together, and, after exchanging mutual civilities,

parted.

Captain James kept coasting along the shore to make discoveries, and

Captain Fox made the best of his way for England.

The Captain now began to think of a convenient place to winter in. In

this attempt they met with so many disasters, that at last having no

hope left, they began to prepare themselves to make a good end of a

miserable life. On the 19th they lost their shallop, tho’ lashed to the

ship by two hawsers, and to their inexpressible grief their boat was

almost rendered irreparable.

Winter now began to set in a-pace, the nights long, the days close and

foggy, the seas rough, and nothing but shoals and broken land to

navigate. Added to all these the men began to sicken, an universal

dejection to prevail, and in proportion as their distresses increased,

their strength to bear up against them grew less every day.

On the 4th of November, being in latitude 52 degrees north, they fell in

with an island, from which they found it impossible to depart. The men

were quite worn down with fatigue, the sails so frozen as not to be

unfurled, the ropes congealed in the blocks, and the deck knee-deep in

snow. In this forlorn condition they built a tent on shore for the sick,

and in this tent they kept fires continually burning night and day, but

the cold increased so fast, that beer, and even spirits, froze by the

fire-side.

The sufferings of the Captain and crew from the latter end of October

when they landed, till the 2d of July, when they departed, are hardly to

be parelleled.

This was the last voyage that was undertaken for the discovery of a

north-west passage, till that of Captain Middleton, already related.

From all which, and the opinion of Captain James after his return, there

is great reason to conclude, that what we have said of a north-east

passage is likewise true of a passage by the north-west, that it most

certainly exists, but will never be found practicable for mercantile

purposes.