The Prince succeeded in his endeavours to inspire them with fresh
confidence; and Mons. Bougainville had the pleasure of observing, from
on board, by the help of his glasses, that the natives hastened to the
camp, carrying with them fowls, fruits, &c. so that there could be no
doubt but that peace was re-established.
The Commodore instantly left the ship, and taking with him a quantity of
silk stuffs, and a variety of other articles, he presented them to the
principal persons, intimating how unhappy he was on account of the
misfortune which had happened, and assuring them, that the perpetrators
of so foul a deed should not escape unpunished.--The grateful Indians
caressed the Commander; the natives in general were happy that peace was
restored, and the market soon became more crouded than ever; so that, in
two days only, more refreshments were brought in than had been before,
and the whole place had the appearance of a fair. The Indians now
requested to see some muskets fired; but were not a little alarmed, when
they found that the animals fired at were instantly killed.
The boat which the Commodore had sent to sound having found an excellent
passage to the northward, the Etoile sailed on the 14th, and being got
safe without the reef, her Commander sent the boat to the Boudeuse, in
which was an officer, who having surveyed the passage, and conducted the
Etoile to a place of safety, returned to take the same care of Mons.
Bougainville’s ship.
The crew of the Boudeuse now laboured incessantly in compleating her
stock of water, and in bringing her effects on board. The Commodore took
possession of the island, for his Sovereign, by an inscription carved on
an oak plank, and burying in a bottle, near the building they had
occupied, a writing, containing the names of the several officers
concerned in this expedition: and this method he followed invariably, at
all the places he discovered in the course of his voyage.
The Boudeuse set sail early in the morning of the 15th, and the
Commodore congratulated himself on having got clear of the reefs, when
the wind suddenly dying away, the tide, and a swelling sea drove the
ship violently towards the rocks, on which she must have been instantly
dashed in pieces, and every man on board have perished, except the few
who could swim remarkably well. At this moment, when she was ready to
strike on the rocks, providentially a western breeze sprang up, and, in
about two hours, conveyed our voyagers clear of all those dangers they
had dreaded.
Mons. Bougainville joined the Etoile before the evening, and a strong
gale springing up about midnight, they set all their sails, and soon got
perfectly clear of the coast.
Our author now describes, in very affecting terms, what passed at his
taking leave of the people of Otaheite; and we shall endeavour not to
fall short of the original, in the tenderness of the description;
convinced that the English language is at least as well adapted for the
pathetic, as the French, or any other European tongue.
Soon after the dawn of the morning, when the Indians observed that their
visitors were making preparations for their departure, Ereti came
hastily on board, in the first boat that was ready. He now clasped in
his arms, embraced, and wept over those new-made acquaintance, whom he
was about to part with for ever.--This scene was scarcely ended, when a
larger boat, in which were the wives of this generous Chief, came
along-side the ship, laden with a variety of refreshments.
This vessel likewise brought off the Indian, who, on their first
arrival, had slept on board the Etoile. This man was called AOTOUROU.
Ereti presented him to Mons. Bougainville, intimating his determined
resolution to sail with the strangers, and intreating permission that he
might do so. This request being complied with, Ereti presented him to
the officers respectively, saying, that he trusted a well-beloved
friend, to the care and protection of friends equally beloved.
Ereti having accepted some presents, returned to the boat, in which were
a number of weeping beauties, made still more lovely by their
tears.--With him went Aotourou, to take a melancholy leave of a lovely
damsel, the dear object of his regard. He took three pearls from his
ears, which he delivered as a love-token to the desponding beauty;
embraced her affectionately, tore himself from her arms, and left it to
time and tears, to restore her serenity of mind.--Who that reads this
narrative can suppose, that an Indian has less dignity of soul than an
European!
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to a description of the island of
Otaheite, with an account of the manners and characters of its
inhabitants; and in this part of his history we shall trace him with the
pen of accuracy.
There is a fine bay, about ten miles in depth, between a cape, which
advances to the north, and the south-east point of the island. Towards
the bottom of this bay the coast is almost level, and this part appears
to be the best peopled, as well as the most agreeable part of the
country. In a passage between the two most northerly islands, there is
good anchorage for thirty vessels. The rest of the coast is mountainous
land, and in most places is encompassed by reefs of rocks, some of which
are almost covered by the sea, while others are left sufficiently
destitute of water to be considered as islands. On these the natives
kindle fires every night, that the crews of their boats may fish in
safety. Between these rocks are spaces, through which a ship may enter,
but will find it difficult to get anchorage.
The mountains at a distance from the coast are much higher than it is
usual for hills to be in countries of no greater extent. These, being
covered with verdure and fruits of various beautiful and delicious
kinds, afford the richest prospect that the imagination can form an idea
of. Springs, issuing from the mountains, form themselves into rivulets,
which meandring through the country, serve at once to fertilize and
adorn it.
On the level parts of the island the houses are erected, under the shade
of fruit trees; not in regular towns or villages, but separately, and
where the fancy of the owner shall fix the spot. Public walks, kept in
the neatest order, lead from one residence to another, throughout the
island, so that the whole appears one scene of enchanted ground.
The principal fruits of the island are plantains, cocoa-nuts, yams,
curassol okras, and the bread-fruit. Indico and sugar-canes grow wild;
and two substances proper for dying, one red and the other yellow, was
found among the natives; but Mons. Bougainville could not learn from
what vegetable they were produced.
While Aotourou was on board the Boudeuse, it appeared, that he was
acquainted with many of the plants and fruits in the possession of the
French, which he called by their Indian names. Indeed, the same
productions are common to most countries within the tropics.
The natives use the cedar-wood, which grows on the mountains, for the
construction of the largest boats; and they make a sort of pikes, of a
very heavy black wood. Their smaller boats are made of the wood of the
bread-fruit tree, which is extremely soft, and full of gum.
The island of Otaheite produces very rich pearls, which are worn by the
women and children; but these were secreted almost as soon as the French
landed, and were seen no more during their stay. A sort of castanets,
instruments used by the Indian dancers, are formed out of the shells of
the pearl-oysters.
The only quadrupedes seen on the island were hogs, small but handsome
dogs; and rats; the last of which are very numerous. Of winged animals
there are parroquets of exquisite beauty, the feathers of which are red
and blue, most happily blended: pidgeons, rather larger than ours, of a
deep blue colour, and most delicate taste: and common domestic poultry,
differing in no respect from those of Europe. The hogs and fowls feed on
plantains only, so that the purity of their food must ensure the
goodness of the meat.
Mons. Bougainville obtained, by his traffick with the natives, about 140
hogs, and more than eight hundred fowls; and he might have procured much
larger numbers, if his stay had been longer.
No venomous animals were seen on this island, nor any of those noxious
insects, which are common to, and are the greatest curse of, hot
climates.
There can remain no doubt of the salubrity of the air of Otaheite; for
though the French laboured hard all day in the heat of the sun, and were
frequently in the water, and slept all night in the open air, on the
bare ground, not a single person contracted any disorder; while those
who were landed for the cure of the scurvy recovered very fast, and many
of them acquired so much strength, that their cure was perfected on
board the ships.
Our author mentions, as an undoubted proof of the healthiness of the
climate, the strength of its inhabitants, who grow to an extreme old
age, without feeling any of its inconveniences, though they sleep only
on a few leaves, strewed on the ground, in huts ill adapted to defend
them from the inclemencies of the weather.
The chief articles of food among the natives are fish and vegetables.
Flesh is seldom eaten even by grown persons; and by the young women and
children never. Their drink is pure water; and from this temperance
doubtless arises, in a great measure, that freedom from disease, which
is one of their greatest blessings. These people were averse to the
taste and smell of every thing strong; particularly tobacco, spices,
brandy and wine.
The natives of Otaheite are of two distinct tribes, having no personal
resemblance, yet practising the same customs, associating together in
the most friendly manner, and conversing in the same dialect. The first
race of these people are much taller, larger, and better proportioned
than the other. Few of these are less than six feet high, and so
extremely well made, that, as our author says, “in order to paint a
Hercules or a Mars, one could no where find such beautiful models.”
Their features are perfectly like those of the inhabitants of Europe:
their hair is black, and their skins rather brown; but this is
attributed to their being so much exposed to the sun and air. Mons.
Bougainville does not say which of the European nations they resemble,
and therefore it must be concluded, that he means the French; in which
case an English lady would scarcely give him credit for the extravagant
encomiums which he lavishes on the beauty of the Otaheiteans; on the
contrary, she will be apt to conclude, that better models for a Hercules
or a Mars may be found between Berwick upon Tweed, and the lands-end in
Cornwall.
The other tribe of these Indians are about the middle stature, have
almost the features and complexion of Mulattoes, and rough, curled hair,
as strong as the bristles of a hog. Aotourou was of this tribe, and the
son of one of the Chiefs of the island.
Our author says that this Indian’s want of personal beauty, was amply
recompensed by the goodness of his understanding; but this assertion has
been flatly contradicted by the testimony of several English gentlemen,
who saw Aotourou, during his residence at Paris, and who represent him
as one of the most ignorant blockheads they had ever known. Hence it
should seem, that English and French ideas are extremely at variance,
respecting Indian abilities and attainments.
Both the tribes shave the upper part of the face, permitting the beard
on the chin to grow, and a whisker on each lip. Some of them bind the
hair on the top of the head, while others cut it short, but all of them
rub the oil of the cocoa-nut into the hair and beard. They permit all
their nails to grow to a great length, except that of the middle finger
of the right hand. Among these people one cripple only was seen; and it
was supposed that he got his hurt by a fall. The Surgeon informed Mons.
Bougainville, that many of the natives were marked with the small pox:
and he says, he took every precaution that the venereal disorder should
not be communicated to these happy, unoffending people; but it appears
from Captain Cook’s account, that some ungenerous Frenchman was base
enough to plant this dreadful malady, in a country where, from Mons.
Bougainville’s own account, it is more likely to spread than in any
other part of the world, on account of the extreme attachment of the
inhabitants to the Cytherean sports.--Aotourou is probably arrived at
his native country before this time, and has informed the islanders that
their late visitors were Frenchmen; in which case the poor Indians will
have ample reason to call the disorder by its genuine name, the FRENCH
disease.
The ladies and gentlemen of Otaheite stain the lower parts of their
backs, and their thighs, with a deep blue; the method of doing which
having been already mentioned in our account of Captain Cook’s voyage,
need not be here repeated. Mons. Bougainville mentions it as a singular
circumstance, that the practice of painting the body has always
prevailed among the people of all countries, at the time when they
bordered on a state of nature: it is, indeed, a well known fact, that
the ancient Britons were found stained with wood, when Julius Cæsar made
his first descent on this island.
The natives of Otaheite wear pearls, and flowers of different kinds, in
their ears. They likewise make a frequent practice of bathing their
bodies, constantly washing themselves before they either eat or drink;
so that they are to be ranked among the most cleanly people in the
universe.
Our author represents these islanders as good-natured and benevolent in
a high degree. He says, that, though the several districts are governed
each by its own Chief, public war, or private animosity seemed to be
equally unknown on the island. The natives seem not to entertain even
the slightest doubt of the integrity of each other, and appear to enjoy,
in common, whatever is necessary to the support of life. Their houses
are always open night and day, and whoever enters may freely eat of
whatever he finds. In like manner they gather fruit from every tree; and
all the level country being a kind of continued orchard, seems to be but
one common property.
Yet were these people, with such exalted ideas of general benevolence,
most dextrous in stealing the property of the French. The Chiefs,
however, did not encourage their inferiors in these depredations; on the
contrary, they requested the officers to kill those who should be
detected in an act of theft: but they would never take this disagreeable
talk on themselves.--When a thief was pointed out to Ereti, he would run
after till he had overtaken him, and then compelling him to restore the
stolen goods, he punished the offence by a number of stripes.
Mons. Bougainville says, he had conceived an idea, that these people had
no severer punishment among them than this kind of whipping; for they
seemed to commiserate the fate of some of the French seamen, whom they
saw put in irons; but our author has been since informed, that they have
a custom of punishing theft, by hanging the felon on a tree.
Although the inhabitants of Otaheite maintain perpetual peace among
themselves; yet it seldom happens, but that they are engaged in war with
the natives of the adjacent islands.
They have large vessels, called Periaguas, in which they descend on the
enemies country, and even engage in sea-fights. A pike and a bow with a
sling are all their arms.
If Aotourou’s information is to be depended on, the consequences of
their battles are very fatal to the vanquished. The men and boys who are
made prisoners, are stripped of their skins, and the beards of the men
are taken off, and carried away in triumph, as ensigns of the victory.
The conquerors take with them the women and girls, with whom they
frequently cohabit--Aotourou declared himself the son of one of these
unnatural alliances, his mother being a native of OOPOA, an island not
far distant from Otaheite, with the inhabitants of which they are
frequently at war. Mons. Bougainville ascribes the difference observed
between the two races of people, to this intercourse with the captive
women of the adjacent islands.
The principal people on the island have a number of servants, who submit
to their orders with the most unreserved obedience; and, in each
district, the will of the Chief is a law, from the authority of which
there is no appeal; but the Chief himself does not come to any
resolution respecting matters of great importance, till he has
previously consulted with the principal inhabitants. The reader will
recollect, that the truth of this circumstance is evinced, by the
repeated counsels which were held on occasion of the French having
determined to take up their residence on shore.
When an inhabitant of Otaheite dies, his body is deposited on a kind of
bier, placed under a shed, to which the women resort daily, and anoint
the corpse with the oil of the cocoa-nut. In these places they are left,
till all the flesh is wasted from the bones, and then the skeleton is
conveyed to the hut of his relations, where a person, who appears to
have great authority, attends, and being dressed in a habit peculiar to
the occasion, he performs some solemn ceremonies: but how long the
skeletons are kept in the houses, our author had no opportunity of
knowing.
Mons. Bougainville endeavoured to learn of Aotourou the religious
ceremonies of his countrymen; and, if they mutually understood each
other, it will appear, that the people of Otaheite are superstitious in
a high degree; that the supreme authority is vested in the priests; that
their principal Deity is called ERI-T-ERA, that is, _King of Light_, or
_of the Sun_; besides whom they acknowledge a number of inferior
divinities, some of whom produce evil, and others good: that the general
name of these ministering spirits is EATOUA; and that the natives
suppose two of these divinities attend each affair of consequence in
human life, determining its fate either advantageously or otherwise.
To one circumstance our author speaks in decisive terms. He says, that
when the moon exhibits a certain aspect, which bears the name of _Malama
Tamai_, [the moon in a state of war] the natives offer up human
sacrifices.
Mons. Bougainville mentions one circumstance, as a proof that these
people originated on the continent, from whence their ancestors must
have emigrated. When any one sneezes, his companions cry out,
_Evaroua-t-eatoua_; “that is, may the good genius awaken thee;” or, “may
not the evil genius lull thee asleep.”
The principal people on the island appear to have many wives; and our
author thinks polygamy is common among them all. The rich are chiefly
distinguished from the poor by keeping a greater number of the fair sex;
for universal love is the characteristic of the inhabitants of Otaheite.
Both the parents seem equally fond of nursing their infants. The men
employ themselves principally in war, fishing, and agriculture, while
the women have little to do, but to render themselves agreeable by their
assiduity to please: they submit implicitly to the will of the men, and
the woman who should prostitute herself without the permission of her
husband, would atone for her infidelity with her life. Yet is the
permission of the husband to gratify her passions, in what way she
please, so easily obtained, that these fair ones are not under the least
temptation to disobedience: in fact, the wife generally yields her
person at the solicitation of her husband; jealousy, therefore, one
would imagine, must be a passion quite unknown among them.
The single woman follows, implicitly, the dictates of her heart, and
yields her person at her own discretion; and, the more numerous the
favours she has granted, the better her chance of obtaining a husband.
The examples perpetually before her eyes, the hymeneal songs of the
natives, their dances, and their attitudes, added to the seductive
warmth of the climate, all conspire to render that circumstance no vice
at Otaheite, which would be deemed so in England. Love is at once the
business and the pleasure of the natives of this island; and at his
shrine, all its inhabitants bend with the most fervent devotion. They
dance to the music of a drum, and sing to the flute blown with the nose.
They likewise divert themselves, occasionally, with a kind of wrestling,
which at once braces the nerves, and relaxes the mind; though in this
place, of all parts of the world, the mind seems to require the least
relaxation, for almost the whole business of the islanders consists in
pleasure.
Our author says, that the inhabitants of Otaheite are a witty and
humorous people, which he attributes to their living in ease and
jollity.--That ease may make a man happy, we will readily allow; but
that it can create humour, or inspire wit, we must beg leave to
deny:--perhaps the dullest fellows this day to be found on the habitable
globe, are among those who are easy and independant in point of fortune,
and perhaps, too, some of the most humorous and witty may be found among
those who know not where to obtain a second shilling when the present is
expended. This, at least, is the case in London: it may, possibly, fare
differently with the Parisians, almost all of whom being poor and merry,
may fancy themselves wits and humourists. In a word, wit and humour are
not the gifts of fortune, but of Nature.
Mons. Bougainville charges the people of Otaheite with a fickleness of
disposition, which was deemed astonishing. Every new object struck their
attention, but nothing engaged it for more than a few minutes. To
reflect was, to them, a work of labour, and they seemed to prefer bodily
to mental exercises.--This, with our ingenious author’s permission, is a
proof of their good sense: every man, who can think at all, must know,
that the labour of the mind exceeds that of the limbs, in proportion as
the soul is superior to the body! For this reason we pay not an artist
as we pay a porter; the one will earn an hundred pounds, while the other
is drudging for as many shillings: but the porter can drudge on for
life, while the artist, if he acquire not sufficient to retire with
decency at an early period, will pine away a wretched old age in
unmerited penury!
The natives of Otaheite are ingenious, beyond description, in the
construction of their fishing-tackle, the hooks of which are of mother
of pearl, and wrought as nicely as if with European tools. With threads
drawn from the American aloe they form their nets, which are made like
those of France, and other nations of Europe. Their houses, too, are
exceedingly well built, and the palm-leaves, with which they are
thatched, are laid on with great skill and taste.
The boats (or periaguas) of these people are of two kinds. The former
very large, hollowed out of huge trees, and finished with much taste,
parts of other trees being added as ornaments:--the latter small, and of
much ruder construction.--But these kinds of boats having been
repeatedly described in this and other books of voyages, it is
unnecessary to say more of them.
In order to convey themselves from one island to another, they fix beams
of wood from the starboard side of one vessel to the larboard of the
other, leaving an intermediate space of something more than a yard; and
over the stern of both the boats they erect a kind of hut, lightly
built, and covered with reeds, which serves as a repository for their
provisions, and a shelter against the inclemency of the weather.
Two boats thus lashed together never overset; and are therefore much in
use among the people of superior rank: the sails of these vessels are
nearly square, and consist of mats, stretched out by means of pieces of
cane.
The only tools in use among the natives of Otaheite are pieces of shells
made sharp, for boring holes in wood, and a chissel, in the European
make, the blade of which is formed of a hard black stone.
The natives manufacture that remarkable kind of cloth which forms their
dress: a shrub is cultivated near all the Indian huts, from the rind of
which this cloth is made, by beating it on a smooth board, and
occasionally sprinkling it with water, till it is as thin as paper, and
something like it, only much more pliable. Thus they make cloth of
different thickness, which they afterwards dye; but their process in the
dying it Mons. Bougainville had no opportunity of seeing.
Our author now employs two or three pages in defence of his conduct in
bringing Aotourou from his native island, in answer to some illiberal
reflections which had been cast on him; and then he proceeds to describe
some particulars of the Indian’s behaviour during his residence. This
account should certainly have appeared as a supplement to the Volume;
but we take it as it stands.
Mons. Bougainville says he endeavoured, at a great trouble and expence,
to render Aotourou’s residence at Paris both improving and entertaining
to him. The curiosity of the public to view this stranger was
insatiable; and the foolish Parisians were astonished to learn, that
there was any country on the face of the earth, where neither French,
English, nor Spanish was spoken. Mons. Bougainville happily ridicules
this strange kind of ignorance; but he does not seem to wonder, that it
should prevail among those who had never been without the walls of the
city which gave them birth.
Our author is likewise very severe on a set of critics, who seemed to
wonder that Aotourou could live among Frenchmen almost two years, and
yet learn only a very few words of their language. To account for this,
Mons. Bougainville mentions a physical obstruction in the organs of his
speech; his age, which rather exceeded thirty years; the deficiency of a
memory never exercised by study; and the possessing only a very limited
number of ideas, relative to the trifling wants of the natives of his
happy island. Hence our author concludes, that he must first of all have
created “a world of previous ideas, in a mind as indolent as his body”,
before he could adapt them to the French words proper to express them.
Though Aotourou was thus deficient in the language of France, yet the
streets of Paris were quite familiar to him. He went out daily without
attendants, and found his way readily through the whole city. He
frequently bought things, and was seldom defrauded in the purchase. None
of the public diversions had any charms for him but the opera, to which
he went regularly: for he knew the nights on which it was to be
performed, and paid the same for admittance as other people: his great
fondness for dancing was what rendered the opera so agreeable to him.
He was exceedingly grateful to those who conferred any obligations on
him, nor did he ever forget their persons or their favours. The Dutchess
of Choiseul stood foremost in the list of his friends, and he expressed
more gratitude for the polite attention with which she treated him, than
even for the numerous presents which he received at her hands: and as
often as he heard of that lady’s being arrived from her country-seat, he
would immediately go and visit her.
After a residence of eleven months at Paris, Aotourou was put on board
the Brisson, at Rochelle, which ship was destined to convey him to the
isle of France, whither orders were sent to the Governor and intendant,
to transport him thence to his own country. Mons. Bougainville gave
about 1500 l. sterling, towards the fitting out the Brisson for this
voyage; and the Dutchess of Choiseul ordered a considerable sum to be
expended in cattle, seeds, implements of husbandry, &c. which were
shipped for the use of the natives of Otaheite. Mons. Bougainville
concludes this part of his narrative with the following very humane and
equally political wish. “O may Aotourou soon see his countrymen again!”
Our author now proceeds to inform us of several particulars, with which
his conversation with this adventrous islander had made him acquainted.
If Mons. Bougainville be not misled in his information, the state of
facts will appear to be, that the inhabitants of Otaheite pay their
devotions to the Deity, at the rising and setting of the sun; that their
supreme God is incapable of representation; but that they have two
classes of inferior deities, who are represented by figures carved in
wood. Exclusive of these regular devotions, the natives of Otaheite
practice a number of superstitious ceremonies, in order to avert the
influence of the evil genii.
While Aotourou was at Paris, in 1769, a comet appeared, which furnished
Mons. Bougainville with an opportunity of knowing that these kind of
stars had been frequently observed at Otaheite; but that the natives do
not suppose that they are portentous of any evil consequence; on the
contrary, what we call shooting stars, are, by these people, deemed evil
genii.--How far it was possible for Aotourou to explain himself to Mons.
Bougainville, on astronomical subjects, is left to the reader’s
reflection.
The more enlightened people of Otaheite have names for the sun, moon,
and stars; by which, without the assistance of the needle or compass,
they steer their course night and day, sailing, at some times, not less
than eight hundred miles from island to island. In the daytime they are
guided by the sun, and by the stars in the night.
Mons. Bougainville learnt from Aotourou the names of several islands, in
the seas near Otaheite, the natives of some of which were in friendship,
and those of others at war, with his countrymen. Of the former are
Tapouamassou, Oumaitia, Aca, Maoroua, and Aimeo; of the latter, Oopoa,
Toumaraa, Otaa, Aiatea, and Papara; all which are represented as about
equal in extent with Otaheite.
There is an island, called Pare, the inhabitants of which are
alternately at war and in friendship with the natives of Otaheite. In
these seas are likewise two small islands, called Toupai, and
Enoua-Motou, which are not inhabited, but yield abundance of fruit,
fowls, and hogs, while their coasts abound with turtle, and other fish;
but the people of Otaheite conceiving these islands to be the residence
of evil genii, deem it a certain sign of misfortune, if either curiosity
or chance should lead any boat to their coasts; and it is supposed, that
those who endeavour to land there will perish in the attempt.
The most distant of all the islands above-mentioned is not more than
about fifteen days sail from Otaheite, even with the boats of that
island; and Mons. Bougainville conjectures, that Aotourou had no idea of
going farther when he embarked on board the Boudeuse.--If this
conjecture be well founded, there certainly was not so much magnanimity
in this Indian’s behaviour as we have been hitherto taught to
believe:--but there are great inconsistencies in the writings of our
voyager, which the reader will pardon, in favour of his vanity. It is
our duty to correct and amend as we proceed.
Mons. Bougainville at first imagined, that the inhabitants of Otaheite
were nearly equal in point of rank, and that their happiness was to be
envied, from their supposed equality: but he now, from the information
of Aotourou, corrects that error, and confesses that, “the distinction
of ranks is very great,” and “the disproportion very tyrannical.”--The
Chiefs, and other men in power, dispose of the lives of their dependants
at their pleasure; and our author thinks, that they have the power of
exerting this cruel prerogative over the common people, who are not
immediately dependant on them. The vulgar are distinguished by the
appellation of _Tata-einow_, that is, vile men; and it is mentioned, as
an indubitable fact, that those doomed for sacrifices are selected from
the Plebeian race. The Grandees only eat fish and flesh, while the
common people subsist entirely on pulse and fruits. Indeed the
distinction of rank appears to be very great; for persons of eminence
are lighted from place to place in the night, with a wood of superior
quality to that which the vulgar are allowed to burn. The tree called
the weeping willow is planted only before the houses of the Chiefs or
Kings, and their public dinners are held beneath its shade.
The servants of the great men are distinguished by a kind of sash, worn
round the body, which is placed across the loins, or higher up, till it
comes close under the arm-pits, in proportion to the rank of the master.
The natives of Otaheite make two regular meals daily, one just after
noon, and the other as soon as the sun is gone down. The servants cook
the victuals, which are served up by the wives, who eat after their
husbands have done.
When the men die, the women go into mourning for them; but this
compliment is not returned on the part of the men. The children wear
mourning a long time after the death of the father, and on the decease
of a king, the whole nation is in sables. The mourning consists of a
head-dress of black feathers, and a veil drawn over the face.
Aotourou informed Mons. Bougainville, that this veil was very favourable
to the wishes of those women whose husbands were not so complaisant as
his countrymen in general are. This arises from the following
circumstance. When the mourners go out, a number of slaves walk before
them, beating the castanets to a solemn melancholy tune, which is
considered as a notice for all persons to keep at a distance from the
afflicted: thus, the veil over the face, and the sound of an instrument
from which every one flies, cannot but be auspicious to the wishes of
the enraptured lovers.
When any person is dangerously ill, all his relations repair to his
house, and remain there till he is either dead or out of danger, each,
in his turn, attending the sick man. Their method of bleeding is very
singular. An inferior priest, called _Taoua_, is the physician, who
strikes the cranium with a piece of sharp wood, which opens the sagittal
vein; and when he deems the patient to have bled sufficiently, he ties
on a bandage, which closes the orifice; the day following he washes the
wound, and no ill consequence ensues.
Mons. Bougainville says, that the preceding account contains every thing
he could learn respecting the customs of Otaheite, either on the island,
or from the information of Aotourou. Our author remarks, that some words
spoken by the natives of Otaheite, are to be found in a vocabulary at
the end of La Maire’s voyage, under the title of the “Vocabulary of
Cocos island”, which being mentioned as lying nearly in the same
latitude with Otaheite, is conjectured to be one of those islands, the
names of which were recited by Aotourou.
The language of the people of Otaheite is described by Mons.
Bougainville as extremely harmonious, and easy of pronunciation,
consisting chiefly of vowels, and having no aspirates. He says also that
it has no nasal, mute, or half syllables; nor “that quantity of
consonants and articulations, which render some languages so difficult.”
Hence, he concludes, arose the difficulty of teaching Aotourou the
French tongue; but he thinks it would have been a work of much less
labour to have taught him the Italian or Spanish.
How far our author is right in his conjectures, it would be no easy task
to determine; for the direct contrary of what he says of the language of
these islanders has been observed by the English navigators. As we have
already given some vocabularies, we shall, at the conclusion of this
narrative, give that of Mons. Bougainville, that the reader may
determine whether the English or the French voyagers have the best
pretensions to credibility.
Mons. Bougainville informs us, that a gentleman of Paris, distinguished
by his skill in teaching the art of speech to persons born deaf and
dumb, repeatedly examined Aotourou, and found that he could not
naturally pronounce any of the French nasal vowels, and but very few of
the consonants.
Our author is of opinion, that the language of Otaheite is sufficiently
copious, and he grounds this opinion on the following circumstances.
Whenever, during the voyage, Aotourou was struck with any new object, he
immediately expressed his sentiments in a kind of extempore blank verse;
and he also repeated daily a long prayer, which he called “the prayer of
the Kings,” not a dozen words of which Mons. Bougainville understood, or
heard him repeat on any other occasion.
Aotourou informed the Commodore, that an English ship had arrived at
Otaheite about eight months before the French touched at that island.
This (says our author) was the vessel commanded by Captain Wallace; and
he ascribes the knowledge of iron, which was observed among the natives,
to this visit of the English, especially as they call it _Aouri_, which
is not very unlike our word _iron_. Our Frenchman likewise gives a very
ungenteel hint, that the poor Indians were indebted to the English for
the venereal disease; but the contrary of this is known to be the fact.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to give an account of his departure from
Otaheite, and his discovery of other islands in the southern pacific
ocean. On the morning of the 16th of April, 1768, he discovered what he
thought to be three other islands; but it was afterwards found to be
only one, the high lands of which had, at a distance, given it the
appearance of separate islands. At a considerable distance beyond this
island, they saw another, which Aotourou told them was called
_Oumaitia_; that the natives of it were in alliance with the people of
Otaheite; that there was a girl on the island to whom he had a strong
attachment; and that if the Commodore would touch there, he would meet
with the same kind of necessaries, and the same hospitable treatment, as
he had experienced among his countrymen.
Our circumnavigator, however, deaf to all these persuasive arguments,
held on his way, and lost sight of the island the same day. The
succeeding night proving remarkably fair, and the stars appearing with
unclouded lustre, Aotourou pointed out a constellation in the shoulder
of Orion, and expressed a wish, that the ship’s course might be directed
by it, in consequence of which they would, in two days time, arrive at a
fine island where he had a numerous acquaintance; and it was
conjectured, from his hints, that he had also a child there. As Mons.
Bougainville persisted in his resolution not to alter the ship’s course,
Aotourou became very uneasy, and endeavoured to persuade him to steer
for the desired port, by assuring him, that the island abounded in hogs,
fowls, fruits, and, what he seemed to think would be the most prevailing
argument, fine women, who were abundantly liberal of their favours.
Mortified in a high degree that his reasons did not operate with the
Commodore, he ran to the steerage, and seizing the wheel of the helm,
tried to steer for his favourite isle, nor was it without great
difficulty on the part of the helm’s-man, and equal vexation on that of
the poor Indian, that he was prevented from carrying his design into
execution.
Early on the following morning he climbed to the mast-head, where he
remained several hours, anxiously looking out for the spot which had so
much attracted his regard.
On the preceding night he pointed out a great number of stars, and
informed Mons. Bougainville of their names in the language of Otaheite;
and it was afterwards certainly known, that this islander was not
unacquainted with the phases of the moon, and that he was learned in
those prognosticks, which evince an approaching change of the weather.
It likewise appeared, that his countrymen were not uninformed in this
kind of knowledge, so useful to people whose wants or curiosity
frequently carry them to sea, where they have no compass to direct their
course, except their own judgment, and the sight of the cœlestial
constellations.
Mons. Bougainville confesses, that the natives of Otaheite are fully
convinced that the sun and moon are peopled; and he asks, “What
Fontenelle taught them the plurality of worlds?”--We will answer
him.--The omnipotent Creator of all worlds, who fills all space; whose
power gave birth, and whose presence gives life to nature, and who has
poured his bounties, with unsparing hand, on every part of his creation.
Our historian having acknowledged, that these islanders are possessed of
such great and superior talents, has certainly no right to call, or to
deem, them _savages_. Is a man a savage because he happens to be born in
a different part of the world from us; because he is unacquainted with
the languages of Europe, and untaught in customs, which he could never,
from the locality of his situation, have an opportunity of learning? The
historians, and particularly the navigators of this quarter of the
globe, are very censurably fond of distinguishing, by the title of
savages, all those who are happy enough to be born in milder climates,
and to live and die, uninstructed in those arts of refinement, and
unskilled in that baseness of insincerity, which are at once the
characteristick, the boast, and the disgrace of the Christian world.
The weather continued fine till the end of April, at which time the
principal pilot on board the Boudeuse died of an apoplectic fit. In the
beginning of the month of May, three islands were discovered at the
distance of ten or twelve leagues to the north-west; but these were
unknown to Aotourou, who imagined that it was Mons. Bougainville’s
country. The moon shone bright in the night, during which they kept
sight of the islands, and in the morning steered for the largest, the
eastern shore of which they coasted, and found it about nine miles in
length.
The coasts of this island are remarkably steep, and, in fact, the whole
of it is little else than an enormous hill, cloathed with trees. Several
fires were seen on shore, a small number of houses covered with reeds,
under the shade of cocoa-nut trees, and more than twenty of the natives
running hastily along the coast.
The two smaller islands were each about a mile and a half in length, and
separated from the larger one by an arm of the sea; in shape and
appearance they are very much like the former.
The Commodore had given directions to steer between the islands, when a
boat, with five Indians in her, was observed coming off towards the
ship. She advanced very near, but, though every sign of friendly
invitation was made, not one of the natives would venture on board. They
had no kind of cloathing but a bandage round the waist; and as they
could not be prevailed on to come up the ship’s side, Aotourou stripped
himself, leaving on nothing more than what they wore, and addressed them
in the language of Otaheite; but they understood not a word of what he
said.
As they held up some cocoa-nuts, and other vegetables, and seemed to
wish to barter them for some trinkets which were shewn them, Mons.
Bougainville ordered out one of the ship’s boats, with a view to visit
the strangers; but they no sooner learnt his intention, than they rowed
off with all possible expedition, and he did not think proper to follow
them.
In a little time many other boats advanced towards the ships, some of
them rowed, and others sailing. These, less diffident than the former,
came close under the ship’s side, but none of the islanders would
venture on board. They exchanged pieces of an exquisitely fine shell,
yams, cocoa-nuts, and a water hen of most beautiful plumage, for small
pieces of red stuff; but they did not seem fond of earrings, knives,
nails, nor iron of any kind; which had been so eagerly coveted by the
inhabitants of Otaheite. One of these Indians brought a cock with him,
but he would not part with it on any terms. They had also some pieces of
cloth, of the same kind as that manufactured at Otaheite, but not of so
fine a fabrick, and died black, brown and red, but none of the colours
were good of their kinds. They were likewise possessed of a kind of wood
hardened by fire, lances, mats, and fish-hooks made of bones.
Mons. Bougainville conjectures, from the features of these islanders,
that they are not of so amiable a disposition as the natives of
Otaheite; and he represents them as such dextrous thieves, that it was
almost impossible to guard against their depredations.
These people are of the middle size, and exceedingly alert; they are of
a deep brown complexion, but one was seen among them who was much fairer
than any of the others; they had no beards, so that it was supposed they
were plucked out by the roots, and their hair, which was universally
black, stood almost erect on their heads; their thighs and breasts were
painted with a deep blue.
Their boats are built in a most ingenious taste, and furnished with
out-riggers. The head and stern of the vessel are equally flat with its
sides, and over each is a small deck, in the center of which is a row of
wooden pegs, the tops of which are enclosed in a shell of the purest
white: the sail is formed of matting, and its shape triangular, being
extended by means of sticks.
In these boats the islanders followed the French vessels to a
considerable distance out to sea, while several others, from the smaller
islands, joined the naval procession, and produced an effect that was
highly agreeable. In one of these last mentioned boats was an old woman,
remarkably distinguished by the singular ugliness of her features.
As the weather now fell calm, the Commodore gave up, from an
apprehension of danger, his project of sailing between the islands,
though the breadth of the channel was more than four miles. They now
sailed, therefore, in the open sea, and on the evening of the same day,
the man at the mast-head had sight of other land, even while they were
yet in view, by the aid of a bright moon, of the islands they had lately
left.
On the morning of the 5th it appeared, that the newly discovered land
was a most beautiful island, consisting of alternate mountains and
vallies, clothed with the richest verdure, and finely shadowed by the
spreading branches of the cocoa-nut, and a variety of other trees. Near
the westermost point of this island is a ledge of rocks, and the sea
breaks with violence on many parts of the coast, so that it would be
difficult to land, except in very few places.
Many boats put off from the island, and sailed round the ships, though
they were then going at the rate of at least seven knots an hour. These
boats, however, one only excepted, would not venture near the ships; but
_that one_ went along-side, and her crew made signs for the French to
land, which they would have done, but the breakers rendered it
impossible. At this time the man at the mast-head observed a number of
the Indian boats sailing to the southward.
On the following day another island was seen to the westward of the
ship’s course, in the neighbourhood of which were two smaller islands;
but none of these could be distinctly beheld, on account of some thick
fogs, which intercepted the view.
The last mentioned islands are situated nearly where Tasman, the Dutch
navigator, has placed a number of islands which he discovered, and to
which he gave the names of Heemskirk, Prince William, Pylstaart,
Amsterdam and Rotterdam. The longitude of these islands corresponds
likewise, very nearly, with those which navigators have called Solomon’s
Isles; so that it is most probable they are the same.
Mons. Bougainville conjectures, that the number of boats which were
observed sailing to the southward, is a vindication that there are other
islands at no great distance; and, indeed, this opinion seems to be
well-grounded. To all these lands the Commodore gave the general name of
the _Archipelago of the Navigators_.
The writer of this work must be indulged for giving a hint, which
springs from the noblest of motives, the love of his country. It is
surely well worthy the consideration of the British ministry, whether it
might not be proper to send a fleet to discover and settle some of these
islands.--Who knows what future benefit might, from such a circumstance,
accrue to the first maritime and commercial state in the universe?--The
American colonies form the brightest gem in the British crown. The
colonies in the southern pacific ocean might, not improbably, constitute
a diadem of still superior lustre!
On the morning of the 11th another island was discovered, which received
the name of the _Forlorn Hope_; but for what reason it is impossible to
guess. At a distance it had the appearance of two islands, but this
deception was occasioned by its shape, for it consisted of two hills,
joined by a low land, which could not be seen far out at sea.
At this period, and for some days before and afterwards, the weather was
extremely unfavourable, the winds being adverse, and the rains and calms
alternate. Mons. Bougainville (on this circumstance) observes, that in
the ocean which has obtained the name of PACIFIC, the approach to land
is generally announced by violent tempests, which become still more
violent, in proportion as the moon decreases. The vicinity of islands is
generally foreboded by thick clouds at the horizon, and squally weather;
and the precautions necessary to be taken to prevent a vessel’s running
fowl of shoals, may be more easily conceived than described. In the
present instance it was impossible to proceed with the necessary degree
of caution; for the crew were in want of provisions, and water, in
particular, grew very scarce; so that they were obliged to take
advantage of every breeze of wind, both by night and day, and run all
hazards, for fear of starving.
Thus situated, it may be presumed, that they thought themselves
sufficiently unhappy; but their distresses were aggravated by the
greater number of the crew of each ship being attacked by the scurvy,
which inflamed their mouths to such a degree, that they could scarcely
have swallowed those refreshments of which they stood much in need. Salt
beef, pork, and dried pulse, constituted the whole fare of those who
remained in health; for the sick, however, there were yet some few
articles of fresh provisions remaining.
At this unfortunate juncture the disease, consequent on an illicit
commerce between the sexes, made its appearance, attended by all its
most disagreeable symptoms. Aotourou was so extremely ill of it, that
though seeming to despise its progress and its effects, he was obliged
to submit himself to the care of the Surgeons. Mons. Bougainville’s
words, on this occasion, are very remarkable. “In his (Aotourou’s)
country, this disease is but little minded. Columbus brought it from
America; here it is in an isle in the midst of the greatest ocean. Have
the English brought it thither? Or ought the physician to win, who laid
a wager, that if four healthy stout men were shut up with one healthy
woman, the venereal complaint would be the consequence of their
commerce?”
Ungenerous Frenchman! Why this unjustifiable attack on the English? At
the time Mons. Bougainville wrote the narrative of his voyage, he knew
that some of his crew were infected with the malady in question, when
they landed at Otaheite; for, in a former part of his volume he has
said, that he did all in his power to prevent their communicating it to
the poor islanders. What becomes, too, of his wonder, how a disorder
should find its way to a little island in the pacific ocean, when he
knew that his own ship had carried it thither!--Whether Columbus brought
this pestilence from America or not, is, perhaps a question not easily
determined; nor, at this period, is it at all material: but one fact is
well known; that the French have plentifully distributed the contagion
through Europe, and it is not improbable, that they have likewise
carried it to every other quarter of the globe.
This subject is rather of the indelicate kind; but we are necessarily
led into it; and may be indulged in one remark, that seems to arise
naturally from the preceding circumstances, and will, we trust, militate
on the side of virtue.--Providence, we conceive, wisely intended one man
for the associate of one woman, who should be the companion of his life,
the friend of his bosom, the partaker of his joys, the sharer of his
griefs, whose love for him should excite all his tenderness, and repay,
with interest, those toils and cares it gave rise to. Thus paired, thus
mutually giving and receiving happiness, the married state is indeed a
heaven on earth. Wedded love, the chaste, the holy, the conjugal tie,
will ensure as much happiness as is to be found in this sublunary world;
and trust, O reader, in the goodness of God for the future. To sum up
this remark, marriages are made in heaven; choose, ye ladies, with
prudence choose, the heart paired with your own; select ye, generous
youths, the amiable fair, whose eyes beam the gentle influence of love,
and whose heart feels the solid force of virtue; then be true to each
other, and bid defiance to contagion: so shall your days be happy, and
your children bless the parents to whom they owe the first of human
blessings, health of body, and of mind.
The ships now steered a westerly course, and early on the morning of the
22d two islands were discovered, one of which received the name of
Aurora, from the early hour on which it was first seen, and the other
that of Whitsuntide Isle, from the day which gave birth to its being so
named.
The track of the vessels was now so directed, as that they might have
passed between the two islands, but an unexpected calm prevented this
manœuvre. Proceeding to the northward of the first discovered island, a
rising land, in a conical form, was observed to bear north by west,
which received the name of the Peak of the Etoile.
In the afternoon, mountainous lands, at thirty miles distance, were
seen, appearing, as it were, over and beyond the island of Aurora.
On the twenty-third it was discovered, that the land last seen was a
separate island; the appearance of which was lofty, its descent steep,
and the whole cloathed with trees. A number of boats were seen coasting
the shore, but none of them approached the ships; smoke was seen issuing
from among the woods, but no habitation was observed.
In the morning the Commodore dispatched three boats, well manned and
armed, to take in wood, and to learn the necessary particulars
respecting the country, while the ships guns were brought to bear on the
island, in order to protect the boats crews from any insult that might
be offered them by the natives.
Mons. Bougainville himself went on shore in the afternoon, where he
found the good natured Indians assisting the French in carrying to the
boats a quantity of wood which had been cut.
The information obtained from the officer commanding the boat’s crew
was, that on his first landing, the natives assembled on the shore,
armed with bows and arrows, intimating, by signs, that the strangers
must retreat. The French officer, however, gave directions for landing,
and while his people advanced, the islanders retreated, but with their
bows bent, and in an attitude of self-defence. At length, the crew were
ordered to halt, while the Prince of Nassau approached the Indians, who
no longer retreated when they saw only one person advancing. The Prince
having given them some remnants of red cloth, their esteem appeared to
be at once conciliated.
The commanding officer now stationed himself at the entrance of a wood,
and sent out a party in search of refreshments, while another was
deputed to cut fire-wood. The natives now came forward, with an
appearance of friendship, and distributed some fruit among the seamen,
to whom they likewise gave some arrows, but refused to accept any thing
in exchange. Their numbers were considerable, and those who were not
armed with bows and arrows had provided themselves with stones, as
instruments of defence.
These people intimated, that they were at war with the natives of a
different district on the island, and even while they were hinting this
circumstance, an armed party of Indians approached from the westward,
while the former appeared determined not to retreat from their enemies;
but the valour of the latter was rendered unnecessary to be exerted by
the want of present courage in the former.
Matters were in this situation when Mons. Bougainville landed on the
island, where he remained till his boats were laden with the articles he
wanted.
This being done, he took possession of the island, by the act of burying
at the foot of a tree an inscription, carved on an oak-plank; and then
he retreated to the ship.
It was imagined, that this early retreat of the French prevented an
attack, which the islanders had meditated, as they seemed to be making
preparations for what they had not yet in their power to carry into
execution; but no sooner had the boats put off, than the islanders
hastened to the beach, and complimented them with a shower of arrows,
and a volley of stones; some of them even plunged into the waves, aiming
their fury at the supposed invaders, and hurling their vengeance on the
insolent strangers. When, at length, one of the seamen had been wounded
by a stone, a discharge of muskets drove the poor islanders to their
native woods, evidently wounded, from their cries and exclamations.
Mons. Bougainville gives the following description of the natives of
this island, which he called the _Isle of Lepers_, from observing, that
many of the inhabitants were afflicted with the leprosy. Some of them
are mulatto’s, and others perfect negroes; their hair is woolly, and
generally black, but in some instances of a very light brown,
approaching to a yellow. Few women were seen among them, but those few
were equally disagreeable with the men, who are represented as low in
stature, ill-favoured, and disproportionably made.
We will not deny the veracity of our historian; the works of Nature and
of Providence are astonishing. The God of creation is equally wise and
wonderful in all his works; but we must own, that it appears to be a
phenomenon, the existence of which surpasses the credulity of an English
reader, that black men should have (to use Mons. Bougainville’s own
words) hair “of a yellowish colour.” Of all historians, the
circumnavigators are fond of dealing in the marvellous. Our Commodore,
presuming that he had visited an island unapproached by any other
European Commander, has told us just what he pleased of the natives of
that island, and it is not in our power to contradict him. It would have
given weight to the testimony of our flippant French historian, if he
had brought to Paris one of these curious _Lusus Naturæ_, these
yellow-pated negroes.
The ladies of this singular country carry their children in a bag of
cloth, slung at their backs. On these cloths there are elegant drawings
in a fine dye of crimson. The noses of the men are pierced and hung with
ornaments; and it is presumed, that they pluck their beards, as none of
them were observed to have any. They wear a bracelet on the arm, which
had the appearance of ivory, and pieces of tortoishells round their
necks.
Clubs, stones, bows and arrows form the armour of these people; the
arrows are made of reeds pointed with bone. On the points of these bones
are inverted darts, which prevent the arrow being drawn without tearing
the flesh of the wounded person. The boats of these islanders bore a
strong resemblance to those of the Indians of the isle of Navigators;
but these vessels did not approach the ships so near, as to furnish the
French with an opportunity of giving a particular description of their
construction.
Near the beach on which Mons. Bougainville landed, is a lofty hill,
extremely steep, yet cloathed with a super-abundance of verdure. The
vegetable productions of the Isle of Lepers, are far inferior to those
of Otaheite, owing, as is supposed, to the lightness of the soil, and
its want of depth.
Figs, of a species not before known, were found in this country; and
several paths were seen cut through the woods, and inclosed by
pallisadoes about a yard in height. It was conjectured, that these
enclosures marked the boundaries of the landed property of different
persons. Half a dozen hovels only were seen, into which no person could
enter but on his hands and knees; yet the inhabitants were very
numerous, and it is supposed they must be very miserable, from the
perpetual wars among the natives of different districts on the island.
Mons. Bougainville says, that the sound of a drum, harsh and dissonant
to the ear, was frequently heard in the wood near the top of the
above-mentioned hill; and this he imagines to have been a signal for the
Indians to rally their forces; for no sooner had the discharge of the
fire-arms dispersed the multitude, than this drum was immediately heard;
and when the islanders in enmity with the others appeared, the drum was
beat with suspended violence.
Aotourou formed a very contemptible opinion of the inhabitants of the
Isle of Lepers, whose persons appeared indescribably odious in his eyes;
and of whose language he had not the slightest idea.
On the 23d more land was discovered, which, on the 25th, was observed to
enclose almost all the horizon, so that the ships were surrounded in one
extensive gulph, while the coast of the newly-discovered country
contained many other gulphs, or large inlets, across which several boats
were observed rowing, from one shore to the other.
The night of the 25th was spent in tacking, and in the morning it was
observed, that the currents had carried the ships several miles more to
the south than their reckoning. The number of isles now seen was so
great, that they could not be counted, nor could the end of these
extensive countries be discerned.
Steering north-west by west, the land had a very beautiful aspect, being
diversified with fine trees, between spots of land that had the
appearance of being cultivated. Some parts of the mountains being
barren, and spotted in different places with a red earth, Mons.
Bougainville conjectures from that circumstance, that they contained
some mineral substances.
A great inlet to the westward having been seen on the preceding day, the
ships now arrived in it, and saw a number of negro Indians on the south
coast of it, while others approached the vessels in their boats, but
when they came to about the distance of a musket shot, they would
advance no nearer, nor could any sign of invitation from the French
induce them to alter their resolution.
The land on the north shore is of a moderate height, and cloathed with
trees. On this shore many negroes were seen, and several boats put off
towards the ships; but these, like the former, refused to come to board.
At the distance of about eight miles from this spot, two islands were
seen, which formed the entrance of a fine bay, which the boats were sent
to examine, and after they had been gone a few hours, the sound of
muskets were heard, which made the Commodore very uneasy. On their
return in the evening it appeared, that one of them, in disobedience to
the orders of the Commander, had left her consort, and going near in
shore, the Indians discharged two arrows at the crew, which was returned
by the musquetry, and some larger guns. A projecting point of land
prevented the boat being seen from the ships; but the incessant firing
induced the Commodore to imagine, that she was engaged with a very large
number of the enemies boats, two of which she had certainly encountered.
Preparations were making for dispatching the long-boat to her
assistance, when she was descried, coming round the above-mentioned
point of land.
The lamentable cries of the poor Indians were now heard in the woods, to
which they had fled, from the rage of their enemies, and their drums
were incessantly beating.--We must now transcribe one passage from Mons.
Bougainville, because it is the _most humane_, and consequently _the
noblest_, in his whole narrative: “I immediately made signal to the boat
to come on board, and I took my measures to prevent our being
dishonoured for the future, by such an abuse of the superiority of our
power.”
The country last mentioned consisted of a number of small islands, off
which there is tolerable good anchorage, but at such a distance from the
coast, that a ship could not cover any boats which should land, which,
as the islands are cloathed with thick woods, would be the more
necessary.
These Indians went naked, and, except a bandage round the waist, wore
the same kind of ornaments as those on the island of Lepers, whom they
resembled in all respects, except not being quite so black; and the
productions of the island were likewise the same.--The Commodore very
properly declined any attempt to trade with these people, whom he could
not suppose would barter their effects with those, from whom they had
received such essential injuries.
On the morning of the 27th they again sailed, and, in a few hours, had
sight of a fine plantation of trees, between which there were regular
walks, resembling those of an European garden. Many of the natives were
seen near this spot, and as an inlet was observed at no small distance,
the Commodore ordered the boats to be hoisted out but they found that it
was impracticable to land.
The ships now quitted the great cluster of islands they had lately
visited, which received the general name of _Archipelago of the great
Cyclades_, which, it is conjectured, occupies no less than three degrees
of latitude, and five of longitude. Mons. Bougainville says, that these
islands are not the same that Quiros called _Tierra Austral del Espiritu
Santo_; but that Roggewein saw the northern extremity of them, which he
denominated _Groningen_, and _Thienhoven_.
Our author now recites a very singular fact. On board the store-ship was
a person reported to be a woman, which was almost confirmed by her want
of beard, her voice, and her shape. The Commodore going on board the
Etoile, enquired into the fact; when the party confessed her sex, while
floods of tears streamed down her face.
Her story is extraordinary.--Born in Burgundy, and left an Orphan, she
was ruined by the fatal issue of a law-suit: on which she resolved to
drop the habit of her sex, and served a gentleman at Paris; but hearing
of Mons. Bougainville’s intended expedition round the world, she
repaired to Rochefort, where, just before the ships embarked, she
entered into the service of Mons. de Commerçon, who went out with a view
of encreasing his botanical knowledge. She followed her master, with
astonishing courage and resolution, through deep snows, to the hoary
tops of the mountains in the streight of Magellan, carrying loads of
herbs, plants, arms and provisions, with unspeakable courage, and
unwearied toil.
While our adventurers were at Otaheite, the men of that island flocked
round our heroine, and exclaiming, “this is a woman!” would certainly
have treated her as such, but that an officer rescued her from their
hands, and ordered her to be delivered, unviolated on board the ship.
Mons. Bougainville observes, that this is the first woman that ever
circumnavigated the globe, and remarks on the singularity of her
situation, if the ships should have been wrecked on some desert isle in
the great ocean. The name of this extraordinary woman is Baré; and she
is as celebrated for her chastity as her courage.
On the night between the fourth and fifth of June some breakers were
seen at half a league’s distance, by the light of the moon. In the
morning it appeared to be a low flat sandy isle, abounding in birds,
which received the name of the _Shoal of Diana_.
About this period several species of fruit, and some pieces of wood,
floated by the ship; and a kind of flying fish was seen, larger than the
common sort, the body of which was black, and the wings red.
A sand bank was discovered on the 6th, on which the sea broke violently,
and the tops of rocks were seen at intermediate spaces. “This last
discovery (says our author) was the voice of God, and we were obedient
to it.”--They therefore spent the night in making short tacks in that
part of the sea with which they were previously acquainted.
At this time the salt provisions on board were become so putrid, that it
was almost impossible for men, even on the point of starving, to swallow
them; and therefore the rats were industriously sought after, and eaten
in preference to it. The remaining peas would serve only forty days, and
the bread two months; so that it became highly necessary to think of
steering to the northward.
On the 10th, before day-break, an agreeable fragrancy impregnated the
air, announcing that land was near; and it was accordingly discovered
before sun-rising. This is described as a most delicious country,
divided, near the sea coast, into groves and plains, behind which the
land rises, in the form of amphitheatre, till the tops of the mountains
are lost in the clouds. The most lofty of three chain of mountains was
seen above seventy miles in-land. The whole country appeared to be rich
and fertile, but the deplorable situation to which the ship’s companies
were reduced, would not admit of their staying to take a more accurate
survey of it.
On the 10th a prodigious swell from the south-east drove the ships
violently towards land, and they were soon within about two miles of it;
and the night was passed in this dangerous situation, taking advantage
of every slight breeze to clear the shore. A number of boats were now
seen coasting the island, on many parts of which fires were observed. A
turtle was found here in the belly of a shark.
For several successive days there was so thick a fog, that the Boudeuse
was obliged to fire frequent guns to keep company with the Etoile, on
board of which were a part of their provisions.
Several shell fish, called cornets, leaped into the ship in the night,
and as it is known of these fish, that they are accustomed to keep at
the bottom of the sea, it is evident, that the ships must have been in
very shallow water.
On the 16th the weather became fine, and on the following day several
islands were discovered, one of which was called Ushant, from its
similitude to the island of that name.
By this time our voyagers were reduced to very great extremities. The
allowance of bread and pease was considerably reduced; and a fear of the
consequences that might arise, obliged the Commodore to forbid the
eating of leather. There was yet on board a she-goat, which had been
brought from Falkland’s Islands; she yielded milk daily, but this was
insufficient to save her life: the starving crew demanded the victim,
and the butcher, who had hitherto been her feeder, wept as he plunged
the murderous knife in the breast of his favourite. Soon after this a
dog, which had been put on board at the streights of Magellan, fell a
sacrifice to the dire demands of hunger.
On the 18th not less than nine or ten islands were discovered, and on
the 20th a still farther number. Our navigators now struggled at once
with a variety of inconveniences, occasioned by foul ships, damaged
rigging, crazy masts, and tempestuous weather.
On the 25th high land was discovered, which appeared to terminate in a
cape, which they doubled with a degree of transport that may be more
easily conceived than described, as it was the point they had wished for
a sight of, from a certainty that it would enable them to quit for ever
the archipelago of islands, amidst which they had been so long in hourly
danger of shipwreck or starving. This cape was called _Cape
Deliverance_, and the name of the _Gulph of the Louisiade_, was given to
a bay, of which the Cape forms the eastermost point.
North of Cape Deliverance about sixty leagues land was discovered, which
proved to be two small islands; and, two days afterwards, an officer was
sent to examine several creeks, in the hope of finding anchorage, while
the ships sailed slowly after the boats, ready to join them on the first
signal.
The natives now advanced towards the ship in several boats, carrying
from two or three, to upwards of twenty men each.
These boats had no outriggers, and their crews were as black as the
negroes on the coast of Guinea. Some of them had reddish hair, and that
of all of them was long and curled. They wore white ornaments on their
foreheads and necks, and were armed with lances and bows; they kept an
almost continual shouting, and seemed rather inclined for war than
peace.
When the boats returned on board, the officer reported, that the sea
broke on all parts of the coast, that he had found only one small river,
that the land is every where covered with wood, and that the mountains
run down close to the sea-shore.
The natives dwell on the mountains, but they have a few huts on the
banks of some of the small creeks.--Some of them followed one of the
ship’s boats, and seemed almost resolved on an attack; and one of the
Indians repeatedly put himself in an attitude to have thrown his lance;
but he desisted from his purpose, and no mischief was done.
Mons. Bougainville says, that he was now advanced too far to return; but
that he hoped to find a passage, though the weather was so foggy that he
could not discern any object at the distance of more than two leagues.
In the morning of the 1st of July, the ships were just in the station
they had quitted the preceding night, having been impelled forward, and
driven back, by the tides.
Nothing remarkable happened but the discovery of a _Race_, in the middle
of a passage, to which was given the name of _Dennis’s Race_, from that
of the master of the Boudeuse.
A race is a part of any channel or streight, where there are opposing
tides, or a rapid and dangerous current; and such are even sometimes met
with in the open seas.
Boats were now sent to find anchorage in a fine bay; and the account of
their expedition is as follows.--That a number of Indian boats, in which
were a hundred and fifty of the natives, armed with shields, lances, and
bows, came from the banks of a rivulet on which their habitations were
situated, and rowed hastily towards the French boats, which they
surrounded, and, with hideous outcries, began the attack with their bows
and lances. The French discharged their muskets; but the natives
covering themselves with their shields, the fight continued, till a
second firing terrified them so, that they made a hasty retreat, some of
them swimming on shore.
Two of their boats were taken, on the stern of which was the figure of a
man’s head with a long beard, the eyes being mother-of-pearl, the ears
tortoiseshell, and the lips were dyed a bright red. Exclusive of their
weapons and utensils, there were found in their boats cocoa-nuts, and
several fruits, the species of which were not known, the jaw of a man,
half broiled, and various other things.
The natives of this coast are negroes, whose hair curls naturally, and
they have a method of colouring it yellow, red, and white. Their
cloathing consists only of a piece of matting round the waist. This
river received the name of _Warrior’s River_, and the whole spot, that
of the _Isle and Bay of Choiseul_.
Two days afterwards a cape was discovered, which was called _Cape
L’Averdi_, on which were mountains of an astonishing height. On the 4th
other mountainous land was discovered, from which came off five or six
Indians, and, after lying on their oars some time, they accepted some
trifles which were thrown to them. They now exhibited some cocoa-nuts,
saying, _bouca, bouca, onelle!_ and seemed greatly pleased when the
French repeated them. They then intimated, that they would fetch some
cocoa-nuts, but they had scarcely left the ship’s side, when one of them
discharged an arrow, by which, however, no person was wounded.
The people were altogether naked, had long ears, bored, and curled short
hair, which some of them had dyed red, and they had also white spots on
their bodies. Their teeth were red, probably from the chewing of betel.
This island, which was named _Bouka_, appeared to be cultivated, and,
from the number of huts that were seen, it probably abounds with
inhabitants.--The cocoa-nut, and other trees, dispersed over a beautiful
plain, was a sufficient temptation for landing; but the rapidity of the
current prevented the possibility of it.
Two more islands were seen on the 5th, and, as the wood and water were
expended, and disease reigning aboard, the Commodore resolved to land
here, and, on the following afternoon, the ships came to an anchor. The
casks were sent on shore, and tents erected for the sick, on a
commodious spot, where there were four rivulets near together, and where
wood for the carpenters and joiners use, as well as for burning, was
very plenty; there were no inhabitants near the place, so that the sick
had an opportunity of ranging the woods, fearless of any attack from the
natives, and every thing seemed to conspire to render this spot the most
eligible imaginable; but there was one great inconvenience, no fruit
could be found.
Two huts were discovered on the bank of a rivulet, not far from the
encampment, and a boat, near which were seen the remains of fires, some
calcined shells, and the skeletons of some animals heads, which were
taken for those of the wild boar. Some fresh bananas were found, which
proves, that the natives had but lately left the place.
This island produces a large, blue crested pigeon, which has so
plaintive a note, that the seamen mistook it for the cries of men
towards the mountains.
Mons. Bougainville now relates an extraordinary incident. A seaman being
looking for shells, found a plate of lead buried in the sand, on which
the following letters were very visible.
HOR’D HERE
ICK MAJESTY’s
The mark of the nails with which the lead had been fastened appeared;
and it is plain, that the natives must have torn off the plate and
broken it.
This circumstance gave rise to a diligent search, and, at about six
miles from the watering-place, the very spot was found where the English
had formed their encampment. Several trees were seen which had been
felled, and others which were sawn in pieces. A very large and
conspicuous tree was found, on which the inscription had been nailed; it
stood in the midst of a spacious place, and it appeared, that the plate
had been pulled down but a very short time. There were other trees, to
which the ends of ropes were fastened. One of the trees which had been
cut down had put forth fresh twigs, apparently of the growth of four
months. Mons. Bougainville mentions it as a very singular circumstance,
that, amidst so many islands, he should happen to land on that so lately
visited by a rival nation!
Diligent search was now made for food and refreshments, but almost in
vain; for nothing could be found but a few cabbage-trees, and
thatch-palms. No fish could be catched, and, though a few wild boars
were seen, not one of them was taken. A small number of pigeons were
indeed shot, the feathers of which were of green and gold.
It will be needless to mention the other products of this island, as the
reader has already had an account of them in the narrative of the
English voyages.
No time was now lost in the necessary repairs of the ships; and an equal
division was made of the provisions, which now began to run extremely
short. A third part of the late allowance of pease was taken off. From
the Commodore to the lowest person on board, all fared alike: their
situation, like death, banished all distinction.
On the 13th there was an eclipse of the sun, which was clearly seen, and
the proper astronomical and nautical remarks made on it. The name of
_Port Praslin_ was given to this harbour, an inscription having been
first buried under the spot where the eclipse had been observed.
The Etoile being a light vessel, and there being no stones to ballast
her, after the provisions had been taken out, this important business
was necessarily performed with wood; a fatiguing and unwholesome task,
in so damp a country.
An insect of a most wonderful texture was found on this island, the body
and wings of which appeared so much like the leaf of a tree, as scarcely
to be distinguished from it, even on a nice inspection. When the wings
are extended, each forms the half of a leaf, and when they are closed it
is entire. The upper side of the body is of a brighter hue than the
under parts; and it has six legs, the upper joints of which resemble
parts of leaves. This curiosity was preserved in spirits, and is in the
cabinet of the French King.
A sailor who was hauling the fishing-net, in search of a scarce fish
called the hammer-oyster, having been bit by a snake, whose bite is
poisonous, was cured in a few hours by a profuse perspiration, produced
by taking flower-de-luce water and treacle.
Aotourou having remarked the progress of the cure, intimated, that at
Otaheite there were sea-snakes, whose bite is mortal in every instance.
On the 22d repeated shocks of an earthquake were felt for about two
minutes. The sea rose and fell several times, so that the concussions
were felt on board the ships.
Notwithstanding the extreme bad weather which prevailed, the crews,
divided into separate parties, went to the woods every day, in hopes to
shoot some turtle-doves, and gather cabbage-trees and thatch-palms; but
it generally happened, that they returned without any success, and wet
to the skin. At length, however, they found some mangle apples, and a
kind of pruens; but too late to be of much service, as they were now on
the point of departure. A kind of ivy was successfully applied in the
cure of the scurvy.
An immense cascade was seen, falling from numerous rocks into a hundred
basons of water, and at once shaded and adorned by stately trees, some
of which grow even in the reservoirs, is recommended by Mons.
Bougainville as a subject fit to exercise the fancy of the boldest
painter--Why did not his limner make a drawing of it?
The situation of the ships companies now became so dreadful, that no
more time could be lost.--In the afternoon of the 24th a favourable
breeze enabled the ships to get out to sea.
Mons. Bougainville remarks, that this country must be NEW BRITAIN, and
that the great bay must be the same which Dampier calls St. George’s
Bay; but that he had the happiness to land on a part of it where his
wants could be supplied by the inhabitants.
A succession of islands having been seen in the offing, Mons.
Bougainville named them after the officers.--The field-tents were now
cut up, to make trowsers for the seamen, who had been repeatedly clothed
during the voyage, to enable them to sustain the inclemencies of so many
different climates. But the last change of cloathing was now delivered
out, and at this period an ounce of bread was deducted from their scanty
allowance. Their salt provisions were now so bad, as to be nauseous in a
high degree; yet their starving situation impelled them to feed on them;
but even at this melancholy period, no one yielded himself a prey to
melancholy. The sailors, influenced by the example of the officers,
employed every evening in dancing, dispelling, by their mirth, some of
the pangs of hunger.--Happy Frenchmen! who could be thus mirthful, in
the jaws of apparent destruction!
New Britain continued in sight till the beginning of August, when the
ships being nearer the land than they had been before, several Indian
boats came off, the crews of which were negroes, with woolly heads,
which they had covered with white powder. They are tall and active, and
wore no other cloaths than leaves round the middle. They held out
something that had the appearance of bread, and invited the French to
land; but they refused to enter the ships, though an attempt was made to
conciliate their friendship, by presents of some pieces of stuff. They
accepted what was given, and threw a stone from a sling in return;
instantly retreating, with loud vociferations.
On the following day a larger number assembled along side the Boudeuse;
a person, who had the appearance of authority, carried a red staff,
knobbed at each end, in his hand. On approaching the ship, he held his
hands over his head for a considerable time. The hair of these negroes
was painted red; some of them were adorned with feathers, ear-rings made
of the seed of some herb, or circular plates depending from their necks;
others had the nose pierced, and rings ran through it; but the general
ornament was a bracelet made of the half of a shell. The French were
anxious to conciliate the esteem of these people, but in vain; they
eagerly grasped at whatever was given them, but would make no present in
return. The roots of a few yams were all that could be obtained from
them. Two of their boats being observed approaching in the night, a
rocket was fired, on which they instantly rowed off.
On the 31st a number of Indian boats attacked the Etoile with a volley
of stones and arrows; but a single discharge of the musquetry got rid
for ever of these troublesome companions.
On the 4th of August two islands were seen, which are conjectured to be
the same which Dampier distinguishes by the name of _Matthias_ and
_Stormy_, or _Squally_, Island. On the 5th a third island was seen, and
then the northern point of New Britain, which lies only forty one
minutes south of the land.
On the 7th a flat island was seen, covered with trees, abounding with
cocoa-nuts, and certainly well inhabited, as appeared from the great
number of houses that were seen on the shore. Fishing-boats in
multitudes surrounded the island; but the fishermen took no notice of
the ships. This received the name of the _Isle of Anchorets_. On the
following day a prodigious number of small islands was seen, when Mons.
Bougainville having escaped the most imminent dangers, in the endeavour
to double this chain of islands, at length happily effected his point,
in consequence of a breeze which still freshened with the rising sun.
He now continued to range the coast till he came within sight of two
lofty peaks, to which he gave the name of the two Cyclops. On the 15th
two high mountains were discovered on the continent, and two small
islands near them.
On the 23d two other islands being discovered, an attempt was made to
land, in the hope of obtaining refreshments; but this was found
impracticable, but by the boats, the Commanding officer of which
reported, that the islands were totally uninhabited, and that no fruits
grew which were fit to be eaten.
This day the ships crews were twice alarmed; the first time with a
report from aloft, that a range of breakers were seen a-head; but this
proved to be only the rippling of a strong tide; the second alarm was
from the fore-castle, where it was declared, that the bottom of the sea
was visible under the ship’s way. This shoal was perceived by the crew
of the Etoile, but was easily escaped by both the ships. Monsieur Denys,
first Master of the Boudeuse, died this day of the scurvy, to the
infinite regret of the whole ship’s company. At this time upwards of
forty persons were ill of the same disorder, the progress of which was
stopped by the plentiful use of wine and lemonade.
It was now thought necessary to stear a southerly course, in order to
get clear of the islands by which they were surrounded. None of these
islands appeared to be inhabited, though all of them were cloathed with
verdure. During the following night they sailed out of this labyrinth,
through a channel about three leagues in breadth. Early in the morning
they doubled the southernmost of a number of small islands on each side
of this channel, which was denominated the _French Passage_. On the
26th, in the morning, they passed the meridian for the fifth time, and
early the next day had sight of a small island to the south-east; they
likewise saw a steep hill, remarkably high, to which they gave the name
of _Big Thomas_; near which are three small islands.
They had sight of several islands on the 27th and 28th, when Mons.
Bougainville gave orders for a boat belonging to the Etoile to steer to
the south-westernmost of these isles in search of anchorage, and to
enquire if they produced any thing worthy of notice. The boat having
landed on two islands, which neither produced any fruits, nor appeared
to be cultivated, and indicated no signs of being inhabited, the ship
was on the point of returning, when an Indian rowed up to the ship’s
boat, without expressing the least sign of fear or astonishment. The
Frenchmen intimated, that they wanted food and liquor; on which he
presented them with a kind of meal, and some water; in return for which
they gave him a looking-glass, a handkerchief, and some other trifles,
which he received with indifference, and laughed at the donors. It was
conjectured, that this negroe had deserted from one of the adjacent
islands which have been settled by the Dutch. The number of them were
formerly seven, but they are now reduced to five by earthquakes. The
crew of the Boudeuse took a turtle on this spot of not less than two
hundred weight.
Early in the morning of the 31st our voyagers had sight of the island of
Ceram, which runs in a parallel east and west, abounds in lofty
mountains, and is partly cleared, and partly in its original state. A
great number of fires were seen on this island, which seem to intimate
that it is well peopled. Early in the morning, on the first of
September, our adventurers found themselves at the entrance of a bay, on
the banks of which they beheld a number of fires; they soon observed two
boats under sail, constructed on the plan of those of Malay. A Dutch
pendant was now hoisted, and a gun fired but the Commodore confesses his
error in this procedure, as the people at Ceram are at variance with the
Dutch, whom they have almost totally routed from their island. Mons.
Bougainville having been thus unsuccessful, through mistake, returned
from the bay, and employed the rest of the day in plying between the
islands _Bonao_, _Kelang_, and _Manepo_.
Some time before midnight, a number of fires attracted their attention
to the island of Boero, where there is a Dutch factory, well provided
with the necessary refreshments.
The above-mentioned Dutch factory is at the entrance of the Gulph of
_Cajeli_, which the French had sight of at day-break. Their joy on this
occasion is not to be expressed; for at this time not half of the seamen
were able to perform any duty; and the scurvy had raged so violently,
that no man on board was perfectly clear of it. What few provisions were
on board were absolutely rotten, and stunk intolerably.
Thus circumstanced, their change of situation must have been rapturous
indeed! From midnight the fragrant breeze had wafted the aromatic
flavour of the plants, which abound in the Moluccas. “The aspect (says
our author) of a pretty large town, situated in the bottom of a gulph,
of ships at anchor there, and cattle rambling through the meadows,
caused transports which I have doubtless felt, but which I cannot here
describe.” Our Commodore hoisted Dutch colours, and fired a gun; but
though several boats were sailing in the bay, none of them came
along-side. In a few hours a periagua, rowed by Indians, advanced
towards the ship, and the commanding officer enquired in Dutch who they
were; but refused to go on board. Mons. Bougainville, however, proceeded
under all his sails, and in the afternoon came to an anchor opposite the
factory.
Two Dutch soldiers, one of whom spoke French, now came on board the
Boudeuse, demanding the reason of the Commodore’s entering that port,
when he must know that the ships of the Dutch East India Company had an
exclusive right to that privilege. He was answered, in brief, that
necessity was the motive; that hunger must preclude the force of
treaties, and that they would depart as soon as their wants were
supplied.
The soldiers soon returned with the copy of an order from the Governor
of Amboyna, who presides over the Resident at Boero, forbidding him to
admit foreign ships into that port. The Resident, therefore, entreated
Mons. Bougainville to declare, in writing, the cause of his putting in
there; that he might transmit such declaration to the Governor of
Amboyna, in justification of his own conduct.
This request being complied with, all difficulties were at an end; the
Resident having performed his duty as a servant of the Company, was
anxious to discharge the superior duties of humanity. The Commodore and
his Officers visited him on shore, were received in the most friendly
manner, and accepted his invitation to supper.
The Resident and his company beheld with equal pleasure and surprize the
effects that hunger had on the appetites of the guests; nor were they
willing to eat themselves, least they should deprive their now too happy
visitants of their full share of their repast. Mons. Bougainville
confesses, that he was supremely happy, because he had previously sent
on board what would be an equal feast to both the ships companies. A
contract was now made, that, while the ships should remain in that
harbour, venison should be daily supplied to the crews, that eighteen
oxen, a number of sheep and poultry, and a quantity of rice (to supply
the place of bread) should be put on board. The Resident was likewise
obliging enough to furnish the sick with a quantity of pulse from the
Company’s garden; but much could not be obtained, as it is not generally
cultivated on the island.
The sick were now brought on shore, and the majority of the seamen were
likewise indulged in walking about for their health and pleasure. The
Commodore hired the slaves belonging to the Company to fill the water
casks, and to carry the several necessaries on board.
Mons. Bougainville and his officers were gratified with the pleasure of
stag hunting, and he mentions the deer of this country as most exquisite
food. The Dutch originally transported them hither. This island is
described as a delightful composition of woods, hills, plains, and
well-watered vallies.
The town of Cajeli, and about fourteen Indian dwellings, formed the
Dutch settlement. A stone fort, which the Dutch had originally erected,
was accidentally blown up in the year 1689; since which time it has no
enclosure but that of palisadoes, with a battery of six small cannons.
About fifty white people are all that reside on the island, of whom a
Serjeant and twenty-five men, commanded by the Resident, form a part.
The negroes who reside in the interior parts of the country subsist by
the cultivation of rice.
The _Moors_ and the _Alfourians_ are the genuine natives of this
country; the former are protected by the Dutch factory, who endeavour to
inspire them with the dread of all foreigners. These people are
principally kept in awe by the influence of their own Chiefs, for whom
the Dutch Resident professes a sincere regard. Dutch policy, in this, as
in all their other settlements, is the same; by fomenting a jealousy
among the Chiefs of their respective dependants, a plot is no sooner
formed by one Chief, than it is revealed by another. The natives of
Boero are not treated as slaves by the Dutch; their slaves being
procured from the islands of Ceram, or Celebes.
Unlimited freedom and independence appear to reign among the Alfourians,
who, residing on the mountains in the interior parts of the island
subsist on the produce of their hunting, with fruits and sago. It is
presumed they are not Mahometans, because they eat swines flesh. The
principal people among the Alfourians pay occasional visits to the Dutch
Resident; “they would do as well (says our author) to stay at home.”
The chief products of this island are various kinds of wood,
particularly black and white ebony; and there is a fine plantation of
pepper. The fruits are pine-apples, citrons, lemons, bitter oranges,
shaddocks, bananas and cocoa-nuts. Very good barley is likewise a
produce of this country.
Parrots, and a variety of other birds, many of them extremely beautiful,
abound in the woods. There is likewise the wild cat, whose bag under the
belly serves for the conveyance of its young. Bats, and serpents of an
enormous size, the latter of which are said to have a swallow capacious
enough for the reception of a whole sheep. There is a snake too, which,
posting itself on the trees, darts into the eye of the passenger who
happens to look up, and the bite of this animal is certain death.
Crocodiles of an astonishing size reside on the banks of the rivers,
devouring such beasts as fall in their way; and men are only protected
from their fury by carrying torches in their hands. Mons. Bougainville
asserts, that these crocodiles, which roam for prey in the night, have
been even known to seize people in their boats.
The name of the Resident at Buero is Ouman; he is by birth a Batavian,
and is married to a native of Amboyna. He lives in great elegance and
splendour, and is attended by no less than a hundred slaves. Mons.
Bougainville speaks of his politeness and hospitality in very high
terms. After having twice regaled the French Officers in the ceremonious
way, he bid adieu to all set forms, but his house was constantly open to
them, as their own; they always found good viands and liquors, and our
author thinks this was no inconsiderable degree of civility to persons
who had so lately been on the point of starving.
The Resident’s house is constructed in the Chinese taste, in the middle
of a garden, which is intersected by a river: the house itself is a
handsome building, and it is elegantly furnished. Its approach is
through an avenue of trees, which are planted down to the sea-side. The
wife and daughter were habited in the Chinese manner, and were no way
deficient in the essential requisites of good breeding. Their chief
employment consists in making nosegays, and selecting flowers proper for
distillation.
The astonishment of Aotourou, at this first sight of an European
settlement, may be more easily conceived than described. He regarded
every object with an intenseness of curiosity scarcely to be satisfied;
but he was particularly charmed with the hospitality of the Dutch. He
supposed every thing freely given, as he did not see any thing returned
by way of barter. Mons. Bougainville says, that he behaved sensibly with
respect to the Dutch, to whom he intimated the consequence he was of in
his own country, and that his present voyage was merely pleasurable with
friends whom he esteemed. His constant practice was to imitate the
manners of the French, both in their visits, and in their rural
amusements. The knees of this Indian being distorted, he attributed, to
that circumstance, his not being taken with the Commodore on his first
visit to the Resident, and actually desired some of the seamen to press
their weight on his knees, to make them strait.--This, surely, is no
great proof of that good sense which Mons. Bougainville has frequently
hinted that Aotourou was possessed of!--This islander would frequently
enquire if Paris was as grand a place as Boero.
Though the French were only six days on shore, the healthful air of the
place had so far recovered the sick, that, by the help of the
refreshments now ready to be put on board, it was very possible to
perfect the cure at sea.
The sick people were conveyed to the ships in the morning of the 7th,
and before evening every one was on board, in expectation of the land
breeze, by which, after much difficulty in weighing the anchor, they
were enabled to sail about an hour before midnight, and got clear of the
gulph of Cajeli before morning.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to a recital of the incidents which
occurred during his passage from Boero to Batavia, in which we shall
trace him with all necessary exactness.
Having coasted the island of Boero, the isles of Manipa and Kilang were
seen on the morning of the 8th, and on the 9th they had sight of the
island of Xullabessic, where the Dutch have a factory, named
_Cleverblad_, that is, the Clover-leaf. There is a garrison, consisting
of twenty-five men, under the discipline of a Serjeant, and commanded by
a person who holds no higher rank than book-keeper to the Dutch East
India Company.
On the 10th the Commodore buried his taylor, who fell a sacrifice to the
scurvy, encreased, when on the point of cure, by an excessive drinking
of brandy.
On the morning of the 11th they had sight of the island of Wawoni, and
in a few hours saw that of Button, the streights of which they entered
on the following day, and observed a vessel of a square form, ranging
the shore, and towing a periagua. The French ships were no sooner
observed by this vessel, than she furled her sail, and concealed herself
behind a small island. A French seaman, whom Mons. Bougainville had
engaged at Boero, said, that the vessel in question was manned by a set
of Indian pirates, who made a practice of taking prisoners, in order to
sell them.