passage which runs parallel with the north side of the main wall
for 17 ft. towards the west, and then curves sharply towards the
east-north-east for 19 ft. At its two extremities the passage is from
3 ft. to 3 ft. 6 in. wide, but at the curve at the end of the first
length of 17 ft. it is 6 ft. wide. The western wall of this passage is
19 ft. long, 5 ft. wide at base, and 3 ft. 6 in. on the highest portion
of the summit, this being at the south end, where the wall is 8 ft.
high. This wall is rounded at its northern extremity, and forms the
divisional wall between the passage and the eastern enclosure. Neither
the eastern nor the western enclosures can at present be defined on
their northern sides, though lines of block débris would appear to fix
their boundaries.
The most interesting architectural feature in the “Outspan Ruins” is
the conical tower built to form part of the main wall. This is an
independent structure from its base upwards. It is 9 ft. high, and
though built of irregularly shaped stones and without much adherence to
courses, it is symmetrical in appearance. On its west side between it
and the rounded end of the main wall is a space 2 in. wide on the floor
and 5 ft. wide at 6 ft. from the floor. This narrow loopholed space
still remains open, save for a single slab which at 6 ft. above the
floor is built into the tower and the main wall, thus forming a sort of
stone shelf. On the eastern side of the tower the space between it and
the rounded wall of the entrance is neatly built up, and a slab is laid
from the rounded wall into the courses of the tower at 5 ft. above the
floor. Possibly these slabs on either side of the tower formed raised
platforms to afford a view over the wall, while the narrow loophole
might have served as a look-out. The circumference of the tower at 5
ft. from its base is 19 ft. 3 in.
The portion of these ruins which lies to the south of the main wall
comprises (1) a wall running south at right angles to the main wall at
4 ft. from the west side of the entrance. This wall is 24 ft. long,
and averages 3 ft. 6 in. in height, and is 2 ft. wide on its present
summit; (2) a circular buttress built independently and standing
opposite the outside of the main entrance at a distance of 8 ft. 6 in.
Its height is now only 3 ft. 10 in., and its circumference at base
is 28 ft. 4 in. It is hollow in the centre, and it has collapsed from
summit to base on its southern side for a width of 3 ft. The obvious
object of this buttress is to divide the open space on the outside of
the entrance into two narrow passages, each of which could easily be
defended by a few even against a great number of besiegers.
At 36 ft. east of the south side of the entrance is an outcrop of a
wall 6 ft. long, and this runs due south at some 5 ft. in front of the
main wall.
CHAPTER XIX
“THE VALLEY OF RUINS”
“The Valley of Ruins” is on the north-east and east sides of the
Elliptical Temple, and almost half-way between it and the south side
of the east end of the Acropolis Hill. This conglomeration of ruins
extends from the edge of the slope which runs along the north-east
sides of both Elliptical Temple and No. 1 Ruins to within 60 yds. of
the west side of East Ruins, and covers an area of about 250 yds. from
east to west and 120 yds. from north to south. This area is the upper
portion of the Zimbabwe Valley, which descends towards the east, the
streams from this valley during the rainy season falling into the
Mapudzi stream, which runs southwards down the Schlichter Gorge towards
the Moshawasha Valley, and later finds its way into the Motelekwe River.
Till 1902–3 these extensive ruins, some of which are massive and most
excellently constructed, remained not only unexplored but unexamined,
and no particulars or plan had ever been attempted to be given, all
writers being content to refer to them as “The Valley of Ruins,” while
some writers altogether ignore the existence of the group. Dr. Helm, of
Morgenster, whose professional duties have taken him twice every month
for the last six years within a few score yards of the ruins, states
that he never supposed the wood and the jungle contained any walls.
Since the Occupation in 1890 no attention has been paid to these
ruins. No visitors’ or even native paths crossed the area, nor are
there the slightest traces in the shape of trenches of relic hunters
and gold prospectors having worked here. So unfrequented has it been
that some fair-sized buck have recently been shot within the walls.
The area was found to be covered with an almost impenetrable jungle of
trees, bushes, and creepers. The local natives declared the place to be
bewitched, and consequently they avoided it.
“The Valley of Ruins” has recently (1903) been found to consist of
three groups, each of which includes several distinct ruins, some being
of an important character.
The area is divided as follows:—
1. Lower or north-eastern section, including the Posselt, Philips, and
Maund Ruins.
2. Middle section, which lies between the lower section and the edge of
the slope of land on the north-east side of the Elliptical Temple.
3. Upper section, including all ruins between the Elliptical Temple
and the edge of the slope overlooking lower portions of “The Valley of
Ruins.”
Before describing these complicated groups there are some features
represented by them which may be mentioned.
(_a_) Several of these ruins, especially those in the lower section,
are exceedingly massive and well built, the courses marvellously
true with an absence of straight joints. The curves of the wall are
beautifully designed and are laid on boldly sweeping lines. The
material is good, and is also most carefully selected and sized. The
masonry of many of the walls is far superior to that of some of the
divisional walls of the Elliptical Temple and to the majority of the
walls on the Acropolis.
(_b_) The absence of the angular style of buildings, except with
certain structures in the middle section. Rounded entrances and
buttresses and gracefully rounded ends of walls form the most
prevailing features of most of these ruins. Two conical towers, several
very large semi-circular buttresses or platforms form prominent
features. Two drains were discovered (1903) in Philips Ruins and three
in Posselt Ruins (B).
(_c_) The middle section is poorly built, and possesses some angular
features. The upper section is well built.
(_d_) The discovery (1903) in the lower section of these ruins of gold
articles, decorated and plain soapstone beams and relics of the oldest
type, including the soapstone beam with bird on summit—the finest
specimen yet found in Zimbabwe—point to the fact that certain of these
ruins were used for somewhat higher purposes than those of forts or
workshops, possibly, as many now suggest, as residences for priests
or officials connected with the temple. This surmise is justifiable,
seeing that the north-east passage connects such well-built and
substantial portions of these mines directly with the North Entrance
and Parallel Passage and Sacred Enclosure of the Elliptical Temple.
In the lower section of these ruins there are no traces of ancient or
native industries having been carried on.
(_e_) In the lower section of these ruins there are fewer signs of
modern or even of very old Makalanga clay huts, such as are fully
described in “_Native huts found in ruins_.” No modern articles were
found here. The consequence is there has been in this lower group of
ruins very little artificial filling-up of the enclosures, and the
ruins are more open and are easier of examination than most of the
other ruins at Zimbabwe. But being on lower ground, with a huge bank
of granite and soil on the south-western flank, there has been a
considerable amount of soil silted into the ruins during the course of
hundreds of years, but not to any great depth. The filling-in, both
natural, is no more than about 2 ft., as compared with 5 ft. and 7
ft. in other ruins elsewhere where there are abundant signs of native
occupation.
LOWER SECTION OF THE “VALLEY OF RUINS”
POSSELT RUINS
These ruins are the most westerly of the lower section of _The Valley
of Ruins_. They consist of two almost oval-shaped buildings adjoining
each other, and for the purposes of this description are marked _A_ and
_B_ respectively on the plan. This set of ruins lies at the north-east
extremity of the _North-East Passage_ leading from the _Elliptical
Temple_.
_A_ is 175 ft. long from north to south, and 91 ft. from east to west.
_B_ lies at almost right angles to _A_ on its south-west side, and is
110 ft. from east to west, and 75 ft. from north to south.
The interesting points concerning the Posselt Ruins are:—
(1) The discovery of beaten gold and of the older class of relics.
(2) Two entrances with unworked soapstone beams used as lintels in
portcullis grooves.
(3) Complicated entrances; a small conical tower; cement dadoes; a
parallel passage; circular and semi-circular buttresses; only slight
artificial filling-in of interior; some evidence of occupation by old
or modern natives.
(4) Massive character of walls originally averaging at least 15 ft.
in height; excellent construction, main walls being superior to many
divisional walls in the _Elliptical Temple_ and to most of the walls on
the _Acropolis_; the overwhelming predominance of the rounded style of
architecture.
(5) No evidence of either ancient or native industries having been
carried on in these ruins.
SECTION A OF POSSELT RUINS
_Main walls._—The main walls average from 7 ft. to 12 ft. in height
above the surface of the veld, while the height of the interior
faces, which are some 3 ft. above the outside level, averages 6 ft.
to 9 ft. The great amount of wall débris at the foot of the walls
suggests an original average height of at least 15 ft. above the cement
floors. Some practical builders have computed it to have been almost
20 ft., and the batter-back would permit of this. The average of 15
ft. is a very conservative estimate of the original height. There is
more dilapidation on the outside top edges of the walls than on the
inside. The width of the main walls at base averages 6 ft., and on
the reduced summit at 9 ft. above the outer surface of the ground
4 ft. Some of the divisional walls are almost equally as massive.
As is usual in the rounded style of building, the main walls, also
the foundations, widen out as they near an entrance. The curves of
the walls are most symmetrical, especially of the wall which curves
outwards from the north to the east-south-east. Two granite beams—one 6
ft. 3 in. high—once stood erect on the north-east portion of the main
wall. A flat granite slab still stands erect on the west wall. Other
long granite beams were found at the foot of the wall both outside
and inside. The foundations of the main walls are carried under the
entrances and form their floors.
[Illustration: Sketch Plan POSSELT RUINS “Valley of Ruins” (_Lower
Section_)]
_Construction._—The construction of the main walls and also of some of
the divisional walls is good, though there are places where a rather
inferior workmanship can be noticed. On the whole, the courses are
regular, straight joints are infrequent, and the sizes of the blocks of
each course show they were carefully selected. There are a few short
lengths of walls in the interior which do not appear to have been parts
of the original building. These are erected upon the black vegetable
mould, and are poorly constructed, are slight and of indifferent
material, being almost identical, if not quite so, with old Makalanga
walls, the noticeable feature of which is the building of one stone
exactly above and squarely on the block below without any pretence at
bonding. This is known as the column style, and can be seen in walls
in native villages as well as within certain ruins at Zimbabwe, mainly
on the _Acropolis_, where, as in these ruins, there are the remains of
very old Makalanga cement huts.
_Entrances._—There are four rounded entrances through the main wall;
possibly there was a fifth on the east side where there is a wide gap.
There are twelve entrances in divisional walls, nine of which are
rounded, two being partly angular and partly rounded, and one angular,
this last being before referred to as probably of later construction.
It is almost certain that many more divisional entrances will yet be
discovered, as several of the divisional walls only just outcrop above
the surface of the interior. Almost every entrance has portcullis
grooves. All four of the entrances through the main wall have rounded
buttresses on either side projecting into the interior of the building.
Three of the more important divisional entrances also have rounded
buttresses on each side of the entrance.
The E.N.E. entrance was evidently the main entrance. Its walls are very
massive, and the arrangement of the inner walls strongly suggests the
intention to protect the entrance and afford a second line of defence.
This entrance generally is the most imposing of all four approaches.
It opens directly on to the exterior of the building, which the west
entrance does not; nor most probably did the S.E. entrance, which
opens out towards other ruins. The E.N.E. entrance varies in width
from 2 ft. 10 in. to 4 ft., and the passage is 12 ft. long. The side
walls are 5 ft. high, but rise sharply towards the exterior to 8 ft.
and 11 ft. respectively, and both are about 6 ft. wide on floor level.
As in the entrances through the main wall of the _Elliptical Temple_,
the foundations run under the entrance and form its passage floor.
The entrance has two buttresses on the inner side, and these have
portcullis grooves.
The west entrance opens in _Section B_ of the _Posselt Ruins_. This is
1 ft. 10 in. wide, 7 ft. long, and the side walls are 7 ft. high above
the floor and 6 ft. wide on the floor level. The entrance shows remains
of portcullis grooves. The floor of the entrance is 2 ft. above the
cement floor of the interior of the building, and there are the remains
of large rounded cement steps down on to the floor. On the inner side
is the _Parallel Passage_, described later, and as in this passage
are a quantity of buttresses, these show that the entrance was well
protected from attack from the side of _Section B_, especially on the
north outer side of the entrance, where is what visitors have called a
“sentry-box,” a small walled-in area immediately adjoining and opening
directly upon the entrance into _Section A_. The elaborate protection
of this entrance from attacks from _Section B_ would appear to show
that _Section A_ was regarded by the builders as the more important
portion of these buildings.
The south-east entrance opens out on to the veld, but there are
extensive ruins, portion of the middle section of “The Valley of
Ruins,” at a few yards’ distance in front of it with traces of walls
between. This entrance is 2 ft. 4 in. wide between the buttresses, and
3 ft. wide between the sides of the main wall. It is 11 ft. long, and
the side walls are 7 ft. high on either side, rising rapidly on the
east side to 10 ft. There is a pair of rounded buttresses 5 ft. high on
the inner side, and these have portcullis grooves. It is probable that
this was the entrance used by the ancient occupiers on ascending from
these ruins to the _Elliptical Temple_, as the north-eastern extremity
of the _North-East Passage_ is not many yards away from this entrance.
An entrance through a divisional wall just within and on the west side
of the E.N.E. entrance is worthy of notice. This passes through a
wall 6 ft. wide on floor level, and 7 ft. high on the south-west side
and 6 ft. high on the north-east side. In this entrance, which has
rounded buttresses on the inner side, a length of unworked soapstone
beam was found acting as a side lintel in a portcullis groove, also
the fragments of a corresponding soapstone lintel. In this entrance
was discovered (March, 1903) beaten gold and fragments of decorated
soapstone bowls.
_Parallel Passage._—This is the sixth parallel passage so far
discovered at Zimbabwe, and is about the fifth in importance. It runs
for 66 ft. on the inside of, and parallel to, the west main wall. The
inner or east wall of the passage is formed by a line of buttresses
with short walls between each, and in these walls are various entrances
leading towards the interior of the building. No portion of this inner
wall is more than 5 ft. in height, though the wall débris along their
summits rises 2 ft. higher. The passage is defended by several pairs of
rounded buttresses with portcullis grooves, and averages in width from
5 ft. to 8 ft.
The passage commences on the south side of the west entrance which
leads from _Section B_ of these ruins. Two large rounded buttresses
form its southern extremity. The buttress on the west side, which is
5 ft. high, projects 5 ft. into the walled-in area opposite to the
inside of the west entrance, and the eastern buttress, which is 4 ft.
high, projects 3 ft. to meet it, leaving the entrance between them 3
ft. wide. There are no portcullis grooves, but it is probable, judging
by the position of the débris, that a pair of rounded buttresses once
stood on either side of the entrance. Portcullis grooves are most
usually found in such additional buttresses. In this walled-in area,
facing the inside of the west entrance, is a passage-way leading into
the interior of the building, but this still remains unexplored.
Going north from this point, the Parallel Passage is narrowed to 4
ft. by a rounded buttress 5 ft. high projecting from the inner or
eastern side of the passage. From this buttress a wall 5 ft. high runs
north-east and parallel to the inside of main wall for 13 ft., the
passage along this length being about 4 ft. 6 in. wide. At the northern
end of this length of wall are a pair of rounded buttresses 4 ft. 6 in.
high with portcullis grooves. The entrance between the two is 1 ft.
10 in. wide, and these are built upon the same foundation which forms
the floor of the entrance. At 16 ft. further north is another pair
projecting from either side into the passage. The one on the west side
is 5 ft. high, is rounded, and has a portcullis groove. The opposite
is 3 ft. high and greatly dilapidated. It is angular on one side and
rounded on the other, and there are traces only of a portcullis groove.
The quality of the construction differs, the rounded buttress being the
better built. Possibly the other buttress is a reconstruction of a much
later date. The entrance between the buttresses is 2 ft. 6 in. wide.
Both buttresses are erected on the same foundation which forms the
floor of the entrance.
Between the last-described two pairs of buttresses and on the east side
is a roughly built entrance 1 ft. 10 in. wide, with the two buttresses
angular on the outside and rounded on the inside. This leads into
the interior of the building. At the northern end of the passage and
on the east side and leading into the interior is an entrance with
portcullis grooves built upon a curved line. The west corners, which
are 3 ft. 6 in. high, are angular, but the inside walls are rounded.
This is altogether better built and more substantial than the entrance
previously described. The northern extremity of the passage is abrupt
on its eastern side, which faces the south end of the gap in the main
west wall, and the presumption is that the passage was originally
continued further north, but that when the main wall fell the eastern
side of the passage was also destroyed.
In places the floor of the passage shows by the wall of a large
semi-circular buttress which projects 11 ft. from the inner face of
the main wall. All the walls surrounding the area are very well built.
The south side is formed by an opening 2 ft. 4 in. wide between the
semi-circular buttress and the west side of the conical tower, by the
conical tower, by an opening 2 ft. wide between the east side of the
tower and a rounded buttress 4 ft. high, which projects 3 ft. 6 in.
from the wall forming the east side of the enclosure. The floor, which
is made of granite cement, is 1 ft. above the floor on the south, and
is approached by a rounded step.
_Conical Tower._—This tower and the Conical Tower in the adjoining
_Philips Ruins_ are almost identical in construction and position. It
has a circumference at 14 in. above its foundation of 17 ft. 6 in., and
at 3 ft. 6 in. above this level the circumference is 15 ft. 6 in. It
is impossible to measure its circumference at base owing to the cement
floor enclosing its north and north-east sides. It is 5 ft. 8 in. high
from base on the north side and 4 ft. on the south side. The filling-in
process of very late occupiers has caused its dilapidation. The tower
has been proved to be solid.
_Semi-circular Buttress._—A large remains of pavement, portions being
cemented and portions paved with blocks. A large rounded granite cement
step crosses the northern end of the passage.
_Dadoes._—In the passage and on the lower inside face of the main wall
are several lengths of granite cement dadoes, the longest being 10 ft.
and 12 ft. The dadoes are still 2 ft. to 3 ft. high, and about 3 in. to
5 in. thick.
_Enclosures._—It is probable, judging by the number of sections of
divisional walls outcropping above the surface of the interior, that
there are some eight or ten distinct enclosures within _Section
A_ of these ruins. Some enclosures have several entrances, all so
far discovered being rounded. The divisional walls of most of the
enclosures are massive and well built, some being far superior in
construction and material to several of the divisional walls in the
_Elliptical Temple_.
The most perfect enclosure is on the inner side of the north-east,
immediately west of the E.N.E entrance. This was entirely filled in
with soil and blocks up to the tops of the walls, which are 7 ft. and 8
ft. high. All this filling-in has now been removed (March, 1903), and
a conical tower, which had been completely buried, was discovered. The
area is formed on the north-east side by the inner face of the main
wall, which is 7 ft. high and 11 ft. long, on the east side by a wall
7 ft. high and 9 ft. long, and on the west side it averages from 2 in.
to 4 in. in thickness. Its faces are usually smoothed and the tops are
rounded off inwards.
_Native huts._—There are the remains of seven old native huts in this
section of the ruins. These are identical with No. 3 huts described in
“_Makalanga huts within ancient ruins_,” see “_Notes on Architecture_.”
They are built about 2 ft. and 3 ft. above the ancient cement floors.
Two are built across gaps in divisional walls, and one partially covers
a portion of the gap in the north-west main wall, which, had it been
intact, would not have enabled the builders of the hut to find room for
the erection of their dwelling.
POSSELT RUINS. SECTION B
This lies to the west of _Section A_ of the _Posselt Ruins_, which it
immediately adjoins on its south-west side and practically forms part
of the same ruins.
Its area is 110 ft. from east to west, and 75 ft. from north to south,
and is oval in plan. The construction of the walls is excellent, and
this section appears to be one of the earliest period ruins. Its
central portion has been filled in, and some of the walls dividing off
the enclosures are still buried beneath the débris. There are no signs
of native occupation of the interior of the ruins, but on the outside
of the building are the circular ruins of old native huts and débris
consisting mostly of ashes, bones, and pottery.
Only the three enclosures at the west end have been cleared out to
their old floors, but nothing was found of any antique character.
_Walls._—The outer walls are massive and show excellent construction,
and average in height between 5 ft. and 10 ft., their width being 6 ft.
at 5 ft. above the ground. The inner walls are also massive and are
fairly well built, being 5 ft. wide at 4 ft. above the ground. There is
a narrow and low divisional wall of poor construction cutting off the
north-east portion of these ruins, and this most probably is of later
date.
_Entrances._—There are only two entrances through the main or outer
walls. The one on the north-east side is 2 ft. 6 in. wide, and has
very massive walls, which are rounded, and all exceptionally well
constructed. There is a pair of rounded buttresses immediately inside,
and these have portcullis grooves. The foundation of the main wall
forms the floor of the entrance passage.
The south entrance is 4 ft. wide, and is built upon the foundation of
the main south wall. It is narrowed to 2 ft. by two rounded buttresses,
and these have portcullis grooves.
“_Sentry-box._”—This class of structure has been popularly termed
“sentry-box.” In the angle at the north-east corner is a rounded wall
with a narrow opening into the inside. This is situated close to the
entrance leading into _Section A_, and its position suggests the idea
that it was used as a sentry-box guarding the entrance. There are
several of these structures at Zimbabwe, and they all occupy a similar
position near entrances.
_Drains._—There are three drains through the walls of this section of
the _Posselt Ruins_, one in the south wall passing through a wall 5 ft.
6 in. wide, one in a divisional wall, 4 ft. wide, which projects from
the south main wall towards the north, and one in a divisional wall 5
ft. wide at the north-west of the building.
A semi-circular buttress projects 11 ft. into the interior from the
cunei face of the north-east main wall. It is 27 ft. round its outer
face. On the east side the buttress is 8 ft. high, and on the south and
west sides, owing to dilapidations, and also to a higher floor, these
faces are only 4 ft. and 5 ft. high. The top surface is covered with a
foot depth of granite cement.
_Circular platform._—This is at the eastern extremity of the ruins.
It is 21 ft. in diameter and 5 ft. above the floors of the adjoining
enclosures. On the east side the summit is approached by granite cement
steps which are large and well rounded, and on the south by stone steps.
On the west of this platform are two raised enclosures immediately
on the inside of the main wall. The northern one has steps leading
some way towards the west side of the _Circular Platform_, and there
probably once reached its summit.
_Cement dadoes._—In these ruins are many lengths of granite cement
dado work, the greatest length intact being 33 ft., and this is on the
east of the west main wall. This work is also extensively found in
the _Parallel Passage_. Not only is it found on the faces of walls,
but also on round buttresses and on the side walls of entrances, thus
reducing their widths by about 5 in. It runs about 3 ft. higher than
the cemented floors.
PHILIPS RUINS
These ruins lie to the east of the _Posselt Ruins_, which they almost
adjoin, being only 8 yds. apart at their nearest points. These ruins
present several most interesting features:—
(1) The discovery (March, 1903) of the finest, most perfect, and most
elaborately decorated soapstone beam with bird on summit yet found at
_Great Zimbabwe_, also of phalli and beaten gold.
[Illustration: Sketch Plan PHILIPS’ RUINS “Valley of Ruins” (_Lower
Section_) ]
(2) An excellently constructed and massive wall, built upon the plan
of a section of a circle, with its centre facing due east, and the
discovery of quantities of sections of worked soapstone beams along
its base, together with fragments of carved soapstone bowls, and also
ancient relics of the oldest type.
(3) A small conical tower uncovered March, 1903.
(4) Excellent and massive character of the construction of the walls of
the numerous rounded entrances, buttresses, and ends of walls. There
are two drains, also a tall slate beam built into a portcullis groove
to form a side lintel post in an entrance.
(5) The complete absence of signs of native occupation of these ruins
except on the east side of the large curved wall, and these are slight.
_Area._—The area occupied by these ruins is 140 ft. from east to west,
and 150 ft. from north to south. There is no main outer wall on the
south side, and it is probable, judging by wall débris, that these
ruins extended some 20 yds. further south.
_Main walls._—These extend from the west side round the north to the
south-east, the rest having disappeared; or possibly Posselt Ruins and
these were originally one immense ruin, so that an outer wall on the
west side might never have existed; but this could not have been the
case with regard to the south side.
The main outer walls average from 5 ft. to 9 ft. in height on their
outer faces, and 3 ft. to 8 ft. on their inner sides, the interior of
the building being on a considerably higher level than the exterior.
This is owing mainly to the natural fall of the ground towards the
north-east and east on which the ruins are built. The widths of the
main walls vary from 6 ft. to 8 ft. on floor level, 5 ft. at 6 ft.
above the floor, while some reduced summits have a width of 5 ft. at 9
ft. above the floor.
_Construction._—These ruins, especially some portions, such as the
massive curved wall, are most excellently built. The selection of
the blocks, the good and even quality of the granite employed, show
that some special importance was attached to these portions of the
ruins. Except for one small buttress, the angular style of building is
absolutely absent from these structures.
The divisional walls are also well built, and are superior to the main
and outer walls of several ruins at Zimbabwe.
_Curved wall._—This wall forms the most prominent feature in these
ruins, and it at once attracts the attention of all visitors on account
of its symmetrical and massive character, excellent workmanship, and
the height of its reduced summit, which has the extraordinary width of
5 ft. at 13 ft. from the ground. The curve is laid on so exact a plan
that it was an easy matter for a surveyor to definitely determine the
centre of the arc. The centre of the curve faces outwards due east,
and standing at the centre of the arc the extremities of the wall
are found to be E.N.E. and E.S.E. respectively. It is 125 ft. round
its inner face at 6 ft. above the remains of cement flooring, and 84
ft. round its outer face at the same height from the ground, but its
outer extremities are hidden behind rounded walls and buttresses. The
distance between the two extremities across the bow is 75 ft., and
from that line to the centre of the curve the distance is 23 ft. The
batter-back of the wall is 1 ft. 3 in. in 10 ft.
The height of the reduced summit for 60 ft. averages 9 ft. to 13 ft.
on either side of the wall, but as these heights are taken from raised
cement steps, platforms, and sections of floors, at least another 2 ft.
or 3 ft. may be added to their present reduced height, for the greatest
height from foundation to summit is 15 ft. 6 in. The original height
may safely be estimated at 20 ft. above the cement flooring. This
estimate is justified by the great amount of wall débris found along
the bases of either side of the wall. On the summit near the south end
of the wall are the remains of a banquette, and these inner terraces or
look-outs are almost invariably behind walls which are at least breast
high above the floor of the banquette; moreover, the batter-back of
the faces of the wall would well allow of a wall 20 ft. high and yet
leave a fairly wide summit. Where the entrance facing the E.N.E. passes
through this wall, the side walls are reduced to 5 ft. in height on
either side above the floor of the entrance, which is 3 ft. above the
foundation of the wall.
This entrance, like those in the main walls of the _Elliptical Temple_,
is carried over the foundation of the wall, and this forms its passage
floor. It is 2 ft. wide and 6 ft. 6 in. long, and has two rounded
buttresses on the inner side, and these have portcullis grooves. These
buttresses are built upon a semi-circular platform projecting 6 ft.
into the interior of the building, thus making the entrance passage
about 12 ft. in length. The floor of the entrance is covered with
granite cement.
One peculiar feature in the construction of this wall is that, while
the northern end is rounded off, the southern end is continued in the
form of a portion of a loop, which circles southwards and eastwards,
and then runs back into the east face of the curved wall, enclosing
an almost circular area of 10 ft. in diameter. The wall in this loop
is well built. The average height of the loop-wall is 6 ft., but on
the south side it rises to 10 ft., where the width of the summit is 3
ft. The interior was rudely filled up with stones, below which was a
cement floor 3 ft. higher than the outside level and 6 ft. above the
foundation. This raised platform or pulpit is approached on the west
side by a few steps leading up to a rounded opening into the loop.
This curved wall, massive as it is, does not form an outer wall of
these ruins, but crosses their centre, dividing them into two parts.
It is apparently independent so far as its plan, superior character of
construction, and purpose are concerned.
At the west side of the curved wall, and at the centre of the curve,
is a wall 23 ft. long projecting towards the interior of the building.
This is 3 ft. high at its western extremity, but its summit rapidly
rises to 8 ft. in height. It has a slight curve towards the south. On
its north side is a small recess extending from base to summit, and
this is exactly similar in construction to the recesses in “_Buttress_”
or “_Recess Enclosure_” on the _Acropolis_.
On either side of this wall, and in the angles formed by the curved
wall, are low granite cement platforms which are rounded on the front
faces. These resemble the “_blind steps_” found in all the main ruins
at Zimbabwe.
The purpose of the erection of the curved wall might possibly have
been for solar or astronomical observations, and though this is a mere
conjecture, the following points may lend it some support:—
(1) In close proximity to this curved wall, and on its eastern side,
was discovered the soapstone beam with carved bird on the summit—this
being the finest specimen yet discovered at Zimbabwe—also phalli and
ancient relics of the oldest type. The soapstone birds had so far been
discovered only at the _Western and Eastern Temples_ on the _Acropolis_.
(2) The discovery under the wall débris which lay along each side of
the wall at its base of quantities of lengths of broken soapstone beams
which, though not carved, had been worked with tools, the widths of the
edges of the chisel being very plainly discernible, some sections being
beautifully rounded and polished. These are believed to have originally
decorated the summit of the wall, a suggestion supported by the shape
and markings on the bases of several beams so discovered. Soapstone
beams once fixed on the summits of walls had previously been discovered
only at the three temples.
(3) The proximity of a small conical tower in an adjoining enclosure at
the north-eastern end of this wall.
(4) The large raised platform formed by the looped wall, and originally
approached by steps on the west side, somewhat corresponds in position
with the _Platform_ in the _Elliptical Temple_ and at the _Western
Temple_, and with the _Balcony_ at the _Eastern Temple_.
_Conical Tower._—This is situated in the most north-easterly enclosure
of these ruins. It is still 6 ft. 6 in. in height, but judging from the
block débris it was once much higher. At 3 ft. 6 in. above the granite
cement floor at its base it has a circumference of 18 ft. 10 in. It is
impossible to measure the circumference of its base, as a large rounded
cement step extends between it and the south wall of the enclosure. The
tower, which has a fair and noticeable batter-back, is very well built.
It has been proved to be solid. Its foundations are 6 in. below the
cement floor. There are four of these small conical towers at Zimbabwe,
two having been discovered in March, 1903. On the east side of this
tower, and built up against its east side, is a small rounded platform
3 ft. high, covered with granite cement, which is approached by two
large steps.
_Entrances._—There are three entrances to these ruins—the north,
north-east, and east—and most probably others will be found as further
exploration work is carried on here.
The north entrance appears to have been the main approach. This
is an intricate entrance, and one which appears to have possessed
considerable importance in the minds of the original builders. It lies
between two outer rounded walls, each 6 ft. high, which curve inwards
towards each other so as to form a passage-way about 6 ft. wide, which
is again narrowed at its southern extremity to 2 ft. 6 in. by two
rounded buttresses on either side. These buttresses have portcullis
grooves. The area opens into a small walled-in area, 10 ft. by 10 ft.,
the walls being 6 ft. high, and very well and substantially built.
The floor is made of granite cement. There are three rounded walls in
this area. A buttress with a portcullis groove is in the south-western
corner of the area, but the corresponding buttress has disappeared. The
walled-in area would have enabled twenty defenders to protect the 2 ft.
6 in. wide entrance from being forced by an attacking party. The west
side of the entrance passage is carried further south by two walls,
each built upon a semi-circular plan.
The north-east entrance opens into the enclosure which contains the
Conical Tower already described. The side walls are 5 ft. high, and 4
ft. and 5 ft. wide at this height from the floor. The entrance is 2 ft.
4 in. wide, and including the steps it is 9 ft. long. A semi-circular
platform projects 6 ft. into the enclosure, and on it are built two
rounded buttresses with portcullis grooves. These buttresses are in an
advanced state of dilapidation. There are three steps between these
buttresses, and these lead down on to the floor of the interior.
An immense slate beam rises out of the ground immediately on the
north-east side of the exterior of the entrance.
At present only the south side of the east entrance has been opened
out. This is 4 ft. high, and is rounded. On the inner side is a
semi-circular buttress hollow inside with an opening into it from the
south side.
All the entrances, of which there are seven in the divisional walls,
are rounded, and most have portcullis grooves.
At the centre of the eastern face of the curved wall is a rounded
entrance with portcullis groove, in which is built a slate beam which
stands 8 ft. above the floor. The total length of the beam is at least
11 ft. This is the most perfect specimen of all the stone lintels built
in portcullis grooves.
_Enclosures._—Judging from sections of divisional walls, there were in
all probability no less than sixteen enclosures in these ruins. Some
were of large area, but subdivided. All the divisional walls are laid
on curved lines. The only complete enclosure is the one on the north
side, where is the Conical Tower. The wall on the south side is from 5
ft. to 9 ft. high, on the west side 5 ft. to 10 ft., and on the north
side, which is the main outer wall of the ruins, 5 ft. This latter
wall, which is curved outwards towards the north-east, is 4 ft. wide at
5 ft. above the ground. A cement floor is laid around the tower. The
west entrance was described earlier under the heading of “_Entrances_.”
_Buttresses._—In these ruins are numerous rounded buttresses. A large
semi-circular buttress 4 ft. to 5 ft. high, 22 ft. round the face,
9 ft. from back to front, and 12 ft. across the back, faces the east
and outer side of the centre of the curved wall, from which point the
buttress is due east at 25 ft. distance. On the west side of this
buttress is a passage with cement floor, rounded steps, and dadoes.
_Drains._—So far as these ruins have been cleared, only two drains have
been exposed, one through a wall 5 ft. wide, which wall runs parallel
to the east side of the large curved wall, and one through the main
wall leading from the north-east enclosure.
_Cement._—Granite cement has been extensively employed at these ruins,
both for flooring, dadoes, and steps, also for platforms in the angles
of walls, which somewhat resemble the “blind steps” in the angles of
the divisional walls of the _Elliptical Temple_.
MAUND RUINS
These ruins, though not extensive, appear to have been of some
importance. They are situated at a distance of 60 yds. from the
east-north-east side of Philips Ruins, and lie almost half-way between
those ruins and the East Ruins.
Their construction is excellent, and the walls are massive, while all
the entrances are rounded, most having possessed a pair of granite
lintel beams. Although built upon by far the lowest level of any
ruin at Zimbabwe, it is the least filled-in, either naturally or
artificially, by any native occupiers. There are very few traces of
Makalanga occupation. The granite cement floors are at a depth of 1 ft.
to 2 ft. below the surface soil within the interior. No ancient relics,
save fragments of soapstone bowls carved with chevron pattern, have
been found here.
The most interesting points as to these ruins are:—
(1) Two very fine rounded ends of walls, both being excellent pieces of
masonry.
(2) Two structures facing east and west respectively, the summits
being approached by large steps, and each associated with one of the
rounded walls.
(3) Sections of red clay walls in the gaps of the stone walls.
The area of these ruins is 143 ft. from east to west, and 138 ft. from
north to south. There is some evidence that these ruins once occupied a
larger area.
[Illustration: Sketch Plan MAUND RUINS “Valley of Ruins” (_Lower
Section_)
P. _Platforms_ CS. _Cement platforms_ ]
There is only one entrance, so far discovered, through the main wall,
and this faces north. It is massive and well built, and opens into a
vestibule enclosure 15 ft. long, 9 ft. wide, and 5 ft. and 7 ft. in
height. The side walls of the entrance are 5 ft. high, the width of the
main wall is 6 ft. 6 in., the width of the passage 3 ft., but narrowed
on the inside to less than 2 ft. by two rounded buttresses with
portcullis grooves, the south one of which has almost disappeared.
The east end of the south wall of the vestibule enclosure is one of
two beautifully rounded ends of walls before referred to. The symmetry
of the batter-back is perfect. This wall is 7 ft. high, 5 ft. wide at
base, and 3 ft. 10 in. at summit. The vestibule has a granite cement
floor. At the east end of the vestibule is one large rounded buttress
with portcullis grooves. The corresponding buttress on the south-west
side is much ruined.
[Illustration: ROUNDED END OF WALL OF WEST SIDE OF MAUND RUINS, SHEWING
STEPS TO PLATFORM, VALLEY OF RUINS]
[Illustration: NORTH-EAST WALL, MAUND RUINS, VALLEY OF RUINS]
On the west side of the ruins, and immediately west of the west wall
of the vestibule wall, and built from wall to wall in the angle of the
main and vestibule wall, is a raised platform 6 ft. high approached
by four rows of stone steps once covered with granite cement. This
structure is apparently different in purpose and construction from
the “_blind steps_” found in some of the ruins at Great Zimbabwe, for
in this instance the platform must have afforded a good position for
seeing over the outer wall, and also for watching the entrance which it
overlooks.
A similar structure is to be found on the east side of these ruins.
This also is an excellent piece of workmanship. The steps in this
instance lead from the west side of the base of the wall to its summit,
and were once covered with granite cement, portions of which still
remain. The wall is 8 ft. high, and its north end is beautifully
rounded. It is 4 ft. 6 in. wide at its base, and 3 ft. wide on the
summit. The north or rounded end of the wall, at 6 ft. above the
ground, turns on each side towards the centre of the summit, forming a
small round tower 2 ft. high. There are four steps, but it is possible
that other steps were in between each of the steps now seen. The summit
of the steps faces due east. This wall is not an outer wall.
There appear to have been at least ten enclosures. There are eleven
divisional entrances, all rounded, of which eight have portcullis
grooves and several have rounded buttresses on the inside. Two long
granite beams and some sections of broken beams were found in most of
the entrances, but not in those in which the portcullis grooves had
been carefully built up.
In the northern enclosures and 2 ft. under the surface were found
several large and massive cement steps laid on curved lines.
MIDDLE SECTION OF “THE VALLEY OF RUINS”
RENDERS RUINS
These are the best-defined ruins of the Middle Section of the Valley of
Ruins, are of better construction, and have walls still standing of a
fairly good height. All the other ruins in this section are almost, if
not quite, impossible to trace, and a view of them gives the impression
that they are of much later construction than the Renders Ruins.
These ruins, which lie east and west, cover an area of 300 ft. from
east to west, and 200 ft. from north to south. They lie within 30
yds. of the south and south-west sides of Posselt Ruins, A and B, the
intervening space, being full of outcrops of walls. On the south and
south-west sides of these ruins is the Upper Section of the Valley of
Ruins.
The most striking features of the Renders Ruins are (1) their
complicated plan; (2) the banquette wall on the summit of the south
wall of No. 3 Enclosure; and (3) the great amount of ancient gold,
Arabian pottery and glass, and other relics discovered in No. 1
Enclosure.
The ruins are built upon the formation rock which slopes down from
south-west to north-east, the floors of all the enclosures being the
bed-rock itself, and this has such a steep gradient that at some points
it makes it difficult for those wearing nailed boots to ascend from the
lower to the higher portions of the ruins.
These ruins are approached from the Mauch Ruins by a passage and steps,
also from the Motelekwe wagon-track, and by a path passing the west end
of Posselt Ruins B. The North-East Passage leading from the Elliptical
Temple is scarcely any longer an approach, as the passage walls have
in some places fallen inwards and blocked the passage.
_No. 1 Enclosure._—This is the most easterly of the enclosures of
these ruins. It is oval in plan, being 73 ft. from east to west, and
52 ft. from north to south. The walls are substantially built, but are
constructed in the style usually found in ruins built at some distance
from any of the main ruins. The highest walls are on the west and
southern sides, and these average from 7 ft. to 9 ft. in height, 4 ft.
to 5 ft. at 5 ft. above the floor in width, and are 4 ft. wide at the
summit. The other walls are considerably dilapidated and average about
4 ft. in height. The bare formation rock forms its floor, and it slopes
considerably from south to north.
[Illustration: Sketch Plan RENDERS’ RUINS Valley of Ruins Middle
Section]
On the rock floor the following “finds” were made: Twenty pieces of
beaten gold and gold wire, a few gold beads, amounting altogether
to 3 ozs. In the yellowish soil above the floor and at a depth of 4
ft. Arabian glass with arabesque patterns most delicately engraved,
beautifully glazed pottery of white clay with different bevels on the
edges, and sunken designs under the glazes which are both sea-green
and a delicate shade of forget-me-not blue, also very thin china of
white clay with rich deep blue-and-gold enamel, also some minutely thin
green glass, a large soapstone bowl, a fine copper chain, and some
other pottery of excellent make and covered with green glaze, which has
the appearance of being ancient or certainly of being of very antique
character. On the upper level was found half a hundred-weight of
twisted iron wire in coils ready to be cut off in lengths for bangles.
The coils were fused together. Coils of fine brass wire similarly
fused, over 200 ivory and glass beads unrecognisable by local natives,
two pairs of double iron gongs, brass bangles, large cakes of copper,
crucibles used for smelting copper, and two hundred-weight of hoes,
axes, and chisels far superior in make to those of the Makalanga of
to-day. The local natives examined this last class of “finds” with much
wonderment. There was a total absence of articles of modern native make.
There is overwhelming evidence that during the last two periods of
occupations of this enclosure it was most extensively occupied as a
copper and iron-smelting place.
On the outer side of the south wall is a remarkable instance of the
silting of the soil from higher ground. The depth of soil on the south
face of the wall is at least 5 ft., and this has been washed into its
present position by the rainstorms of many years. The triangular space
formed by the wall and the sloping granite rock was thus filled in for
a length of fully 70 ft.
There are no signs of any entrances into this enclosure except on the
north-east side, where there is a long gap in the wall.
_No. 2 Enclosure._—This is situated due west of No. 1 Enclosure. Its
area, which is square save on the south side where it slightly rounds
outwards, is 30 ft. by 20 ft. The débris from the high east wall of No.
3 Enclosure has almost filled it up to the summit of its walls. Nothing
of any antiquarian value was found here, but the examination work was
only partial. This enclosure probably acted as a passage-way from the
North-East Passage to Nos. 1 and 5 Enclosures, and possibly towards the
Lower Section of “The Valley of Ruins.”
_No. 3 Enclosure._—The plan of this enclosure, which lies directly west
of No. 2 Enclosure, is almost circular save that its north-east wall is
slightly squared. The area is 39 ft. from north to south, and 36 ft.
from east to west. The walls are exceedingly massive, some being 7 ft.
wide at base and 5 ft. wide on the present summit at 7 ft. from the
ground. They are obviously of better construction than any of the other
walls of these ruins.
On the summit of the south wall are the remains of a banquette wall
still 4 ft. long and 4 ft. high, which makes the total height of the
wall at this point 11 ft. There is only one entrance, which is on the
north-west, is rounded, and has portcullis grooves.
This enclosure has not as yet yielded any article of an antique
character, but modern native articles are practically absent.
_No. 4 Enclosure._—This is practically an open space separating these
ruins on the south side from the ruins which are on higher ground,
and extend up to the north-east walls of the Elliptical Temple. In
area it is 150 ft. long from east to west, and averages in width from
north to south some 50 ft. It is bounded on the south by three long
semi-circular terraced walls, each about 8 ft. in height. Its floor on
the north side is of formation rock, which slopes at a steep gradient
to the north side where soil has silted in to a depth of 5 ft. On the
north-east side it is bounded by the outer faces of Enclosures Nos. 1,
2, and 3.
The North-East Passage runs into the south-west corner of the area,
and there are steps and a passage leading down from Mauch Ruins at the
south-east corner of the area.
In this enclosure were found some fine pottery with Arabic lettering
on the rim with beautiful designs, also a few gold beads.
_No. 5 Enclosure._—This area is 86 ft. from north to south, and 40 ft.
from east to west. It is bounded by No. 8 Enclosure on the west, by
No. 2 Enclosure on the south, and by No. 1 Enclosure and a large open
space not yet explored on the east and north sides. The walls are still
fairly high, averaging 9 ft. on the south side, 8 ft. on the west, 7
ft. on the north and east sides. The construction is massive, the walls
averaging 5 ft. to 6 ft. in width at base.
The entrance on the north-east side is rounded and had portcullis
grooves. The foundations of the wall, as in all the older buildings,
form the floor of the passage.
The only other entrance is in the south-east corner, and this leads
into No. 2 Enclosure.
_No. 6 Enclosure._—This enclosed area is directly on the west side of
No. 3 Enclosure, and is 90 ft. from east to west, and averages 35 ft.
from north to south. Possibly it contained sub-divisions, for small
walls and traces of walls are to be found within it. The average height
of the walls, so far as they are intact, is from 6 ft. to 8 ft. The
floor of this enclosure is formed of granite rock which slopes slightly
to the north. The eastern end of the south wall runs up a steep rock
incline sideways, and is in consequence much dilapidated.
The North-East Passage runs from No. 4 Enclosure into this area at
its south-east corner where it divides, one part going down into “The
Valley,” while the other, following along the higher ground, trends to
the west as far as No. 1 Ruins.
The two entrances at the south-east corner of the enclosure where
the North-East Passage divides are both rounded—the entrance on the
north-east side is also rounded.
_No. 7 Enclosure and Passage._—This enclosure, which is triangular in
form, is the most westerly of all the clearly defined areas of the
Renders Ruins. It is 28 ft. long on its western side, 18 ft. on its
north-east side, and 29 ft. on its southern side. The inner faces of
the walls average 8 ft. in height. A large entrance, evidently of some
importance, is on the west side. This is rounded and has portcullis
grooves, while the side walls are 5 ft. high and the passage is 3 ft. 6
in. wide. Steps led from the entrance downwards on the outward side.
A drain runs through the south wall leading from No. 6 Enclosure.
A passage 31 ft. long with side walls 6 ft. high leads from this
enclosure into No. 8.
_No. 8 Enclosure_ appears to be of a very chaotic and irregular
character, mounds of soil, piles of stones, and traces of
sub-divisional walls being the principal features of this area, the
surface measurements of which are 150 ft. from east to west, and 70 ft.
from north to south. Soil has been evidently brought into the enclosure
for the purpose of forming platforms on which are the remains of very
old Makalanga clay huts.
Probably there were at least six sub-divisions of this enclosure. On
the north, north-west, west, and south-west the walls average 6 ft.
to 9 ft. in height, and about 4 ft. on the other sides. The walls are
substantial and are fairly well built in places, the more substantial
building being on the west side, where there is a prominent end of an
angular wall 15 ft. high facing the north.
There are at least four entrances to this enclosure, viz. one on the
north side which is rounded, a second on the south side which is also
rounded and has portcullis grooves, one on the north-east side which is
angular, and the fourth on the east side, and this is rounded.
UPPER SECTION OF “THE VALLEY OF RUINS”
MAUCH RUINS
These are well-defined ruins, and they form part of the Upper Section
of “The Valley of Ruins,” and are situated on the north-east of the
north-east extremity of the chevron pattern on the Elliptical Temple at
a distance of 105 yds. They occupy the granite plateau on the edge of
steep ground overlooking the Middle and Lower Sections of “The Valley
of Ruins.”
The plan and the excellently constructed portions of some of the walls,
and the class of relics found here in 1903, when these ruins were
partially cleared out, all point to the building having a distinct
claim to some antiquity, although of a more subsequent age than that of
some of the main ruins.
The distinctive features of this ruin are its high walls, a passage
running parallel with the inside of the main north-east wall, a large
semi-circular buttress or platform, and the quantity of beaten gold and
gold wire discovered here.
_Main walls._—The workmanship of some of the lengths of main walls
is excellent, but some are of inferior construction, portions being
obviously reconstructions with the joints plainly visible. There are at
least two reconstructed walls—one on the west side of the main wall,
and the other on the north-east side of the Parallel Passage. In the
inferior portions blocks of all sizes and shapes have been employed.
The best-built portions are the north-east main wall and the divisional
wall which runs north-east to south-west. All the main walls are built
upon a curved plan.
The main walls are still high, though evidently somewhat reduced from
their original heights. The heights from the outside surface average
from 9 ft. to 12 ft., and in places the level of the summits is very
fairly maintained. From the interior surface the heights vary from 7
ft. to 10 ft.
The widths of the walls are evenly maintained throughout, being about
4 ft. 6 in. wide at 4 ft. above the ground, and 3 ft. to 3 ft. 6 in.
at a summit of 12 ft., the battering-back being about 1 ft. in 8 ft.
Some of the walls have been thrown out of batter, and the upper edges
overhang.
All the ends of the walls are rounded, except in the large divisional
wall, where is an unfinished end facing north, which terminates
abruptly.
[Illustration: Sketch Plan MAUCH RUINS “Valley of Ruins” (_Upper
Section_)]
_Interior Area._—The measurements of the interior are: 98 ft. from
east to west, and 83 ft. from north to south. The area is of a rough
oval shape. It originally contained at least three enclosures. The
soil filling-in is artificial. The elevation of the ruin precludes any
suggestion of silting in naturally. This work is believed to be that of
all local natives of some few generations past.
_Parallel Passage._—This is 99 ft. long down its centre, and was most
probably much longer, as its extremities disappear in débris. The
north-east side wall of the passage, which is the main wall, is from
7 ft. to 9 ft. high at the eastern end, and there is a break owing to
dilapidations at 50 ft. west of this point, while near the lower or
western end the walls on either side are 7 ft. high. The north-west end
is formed by a wall 7 ft. high, a low wall, a semi-circular wall, and
boulders. On the south side, and opposite the opening in the north-east
wall, steps to a somewhat higher level can be traced, leading
southwards up from the passage, and these steps have a rounded wall on
each side. The rounded end of the north-east main wall is a fine piece
of workmanship. The passage is from 3 ft. to 4 ft. wide.
_Entrances._—There are five entrances, and each is rounded, and all
the buttresses are also rounded. One entrance leads into the ruin on
the west side, and there are rounded buttresses on either side, which
are erected on a semi-circular platform projecting 16 ft. into the
interior. This entrance opens into a passage which was discovered by
Bent (1891), but was not opened out till 1903. A second entrance is in
the north-east wall, but on its western side only traces of the side
wall remain. A third entrance is on the east side of the building. This
is 6 ft. high on either side, and is without buttresses or portcullis
grooves. The floor of the passage is formed by the foundation walls.
This entrance leads into an outer enclosure on the eastern side. The
last entrance is between the south end of the large divisional wall
and the semi-circular buttress or platform. Possibly a buttress has
disappeared from the south side of this entrance.
_Divisional walls._—There are two divisional walls, one being the wall
already mentioned as separating the two main enclosures. This runs
north-east from the large semi-circular buttress for 16 ft. It is 9
ft. high and is well built, and has a drain passing through the lower
courses. The north-eastern extremity of this wall is 32 ft. from the
inside face of the main north-east wall. The other wall is 15 ft. long,
and runs out eastwards from the inside face of the main west wall.
This is 7 ft. high, but its height is reduced to 3 ft. at its eastern
extremity. It is 3 ft. wide at the surface level.
_Drain-holes._—There are three well-constructed drains running through
walls; one passes the divisional wall which is on the eastern side
of the building, another passes through the main eastern wall into
the outer enclosure, and the third is in the east wall of the outer
enclosure.
_Semi-circular Buttress._—This structure lies on the south side of
the ruins, and projects 16 ft. into the interior. The total length
round the face is 32 ft. It is 24 ft. across the back, and 10 ft. high
on the west, 6 ft. high on the north, and 6 ft. high on the east. It
appears to be perfectly solid, and once to have had a level surface.
Large trees have grown on its south and west sides, and have done
considerable damage to it. Two small walls are on its north-east side,
and these run towards the buttress as if they once had formed the
approach to the summit.
_Outer Enclosure._—On the eastern side is an enclosure, but somewhat
roughly built. It is 51 ft. from north to south, and 30 ft. from east
to west at its southern end, and 19 ft. from east to west at its
northern end. This enclosure has been extensively filled in with soil
and the usual Kafir débris, among which were found two pairs of double
iron gongs.
_West Passage._—This passage, which was discovered by Bent in 1891,
runs along the outer side of the main west wall for 60 ft. It is 3
ft. to 4 ft. wide, and the wall on the west side of it is very much
dilapidated. From the western entrance to these ruins the passage runs
27 ft. further north, and descends some 29 ft. by means of stairs, and
then passes out between high walls on to the granite floor of _Renders
Ruins_, which are in the Middle Section of “The Valley of Ruins.”
_General._—The position of the Mauch Ruins on their east and north-east
sides is strengthened for defensive purposes by a steep drop of about
12 ft. down on to the level occupied by the Middle Section of “The
Valley of Ruins.” This drop is formed by an almost vertical granite
glacis, which it would have been very difficult to climb.
_Finds._—Gold wire, beaten gold, and gold beads, and portions of
sea-green glazed pottery of white clay.
SOUTH-EAST RUINS
These ruins are situated at the south-eastern extremity of the Zimbabwe
Ruins’ area where the Valley of Ruins terminates on its eastern side,
and are only ten minutes’ walk from Havilah Camp. They occupy a summit
of a bare and rounded kopje, commanding most extensive views of the
country beyond Schlichter Gorge to the south and of the Arowi district
towards the east-north-east. Its position is highly strategetic, and
there is a steep descent on the south-west side into a deep gorge, down
which the stream rising on the east side of the Elliptical Temple flows
toward the Mapudzi.
The area of well-defined walls is 140 ft. from north to south, and
120 ft. from east to west, but there are traces of walls in all
directions—on the south at 70 yds. and on the south-west at 20 yds.
distance. The formation rock crops to the present surface at many
places, and the depth of soil elsewhere is inconsiderable.
The style of building very closely resembles that of Ridge Ruins, which
lie between the Elliptical Temple and Havilah Camp, as to which there
are considerable doubts of its being of very remote antiquity.
The walls, the majority of which are of massive proportions, are not at
all well built, blocks of all sizes and shapes having been employed,
and there is little or no attempt to adhere to courses. The present
reduced average height of the walls is from 4 ft. to about 6 ft., but,
judging from wall débris, every wall must have originally been at least
some 7 ft. or 8 ft. in height. The walls are from 4 ft. to 5 ft. wide
at base, and 3 ft. to 4 ft. wide at their very much reduced summits.
The plan of the building is laid on curved lines, and the only entrance
which remains intact has rounded sides. It is possible these buildings
once had six outer and inner entrances. The main entrance appears to
have been on the west side.
[Illustration: SOUTH-EAST RUINS Zimbabwe
_Single figures are heights of walls in feet._]
There are about eight enclosures, and in some of these there are
remains of very old Makalanga huts, and the soil of the interior is
filled with great quantities of Kafir pottery, iron-work, iron slag,
cattle bones, and ashes. Two Kafir graves were found, but these were
not of any great age. Local natives state their own people once lived
here, but not in their time, and this is extremely probable; but they
do not think the walls were built by any Makalanga.
On the east side, just outside the main wall, there are three sets of
_isafuba_ game-holes cut into the formation rock. Each set has four
rows of eight holes each.
The ruins have been but partially examined at several points, but
nothing of any antique character has been found here.
CHAPTER XX
“THE VALLEY OF RUINS”
(_Continued_)
No. 1 Ruins—Ridge Ruins—Camp Ruins, Nos. 1 and 2.
NO. 1 RUINS
These ruins, which are of an important character, lie on the north side
of the Elliptical Temple at a distance of 63 yds. from the north-west
entrance to that building, with which it is connected by a substantial
and well-constructed wall running out due north from the north-west
outer face of the main wall of the temple at 43 ft. west from the
north-west entrance and at the points [705 ft.] and [710 ft.].
Visitors would know this ruin as the one which lies back on the
left-hand side of the path leading from Havilah Camp to the west
entrance of the Elliptical Temple, and as the one with the tall
column-like forms of the aloes crowned with fleshy leaves which line
the summit of its walls, as also do the candelabra-shaped branches
of numerous large euphorbia trees which together impart to these
walls a pre-Raphaelite appearance peculiarly striking because of
its old-world-looking character. But though this ruin may be known
to visitors, they rarely examine its enclosures, for the internal
portions, owing to extensive excavations during past years, are most
uneven, and require some climbing over their irregular surfaces.
Whether the age of this ruin synchronises with that of the Elliptical
Temple is for several obvious reasons open to some question, but that
it is “ancient” admits of no possible doubt. Its architecture and
construction are both inferior to those of the Elliptical Temple, and
to many ruins throughout the country which belong to the earliest type
of Zimbabwe buildings, though it must be admitted that great care is
shown in its construction. Possibly these buildings are of somewhat
later date than the Elliptical Temple, while the purpose to which
it was devoted was such as not to warrant such elaborate care being
lavished upon it as on the temples and the buildings used as residences.
Excavators have literally turned this ruin inside out, and have
excavated whole areas to depths of 5 ft. to 7 ft. till the granite
formation was reached, and have left some of the foundations both bare
and undermined. There is no doubt that the building has thus been
completely ransacked, and yet there is nothing to show that it was
either a temple or a place where at any time gold-smelting was carried
on, there being no traces of gold furnaces, blow-pipes, crucibles,
scorifiers, or cement spattered with gold; in fact, pannings of such
soil as still remains within it has not so far shown any “traces”
or fragments of gold wire or beads and pellets of gold such as are
so frequently and abundantly found in other ruins at Zimbabwe. Nor
have any indications of copper-smelting been found here as in other
ruins. There is no suggestion in its plan that it was a temple.
Certainly there is no decorative pattern on its walls, nor are there
any monoliths, nor even fragments of what might have been monoliths.
Certainly stones said to be phalli have been found there, but a few
years ago it was the fashion in Rhodesia to style every stone of
peculiar shape a phallus. But supposing some of these objects were
undoubted phalli, these might easily have come from the Elliptical
Temple a few yards away, especially seeing that the north-west entrance
to the temple was enclosed on either hand by walls of No. 1 Ruins,
and that phalli and miniature soapstone birds have been discovered
by almost all explorers of these ruins among the débris deposited
outside all three entrances to the temple. The inner banquette walls
on either side of the north-west entrance to these ruins, as well as
the massively built outer walls, strongly suggest a fortification,
and the conglomeration of tall buttresses overlooking the Elliptical
Temple, and also “The Valley of Ruins,” rather confirms this view,
especially as the ruins contain no evidences of any industry having
been carried on by the ancients within them. Moreover, these are
the only ruins of any importance on the north and west sides of the
Elliptical Temple which could possibly have served as a fort for the
protection of that side of the temple, and its site occupies a strongly
strategetic position on the summit of sloping ground. Unless it was
a fortification, the whole flank of the area of small ruins in the
vicinity of the north entrance would have been undefended, for on the
northern and eastern sides of such area of ruins are very substantially
built forts occupying elevations of vantage.
Sir John Willoughby states that the design of this building is very
irregular, the inner walls terminate abruptly and form only three sides
of an enclosure with floors ever varying in their relative levels, the
wall foundations are of unequal depths, and the interiors of some of
the walls are carelessly filled in with stones, this latter being a
feature absent in the earliest types of Zimbabwes, but present in later
ruins.
All these departures from the style of construction as employed in
the Elliptical Temple, and in very many of the ruins at Zimbabwe, are
obvious to anyone on making an inspection, as also the irregularity in
the sizes of the stones of any single course, the poorer quality of
the granite, the employment of unhewn stones, and the introduction of
the angular and plumb style of building so peculiarly absent in the
Elliptical Temple and elsewhere at Zimbabwe. There are no drain-holes
in any of the walls of these ruins.
Of old and recent Makalanga occupations of these ruins there is
ample evidence. Kafir pottery, bones, ashes, and scraps of iron are
abundant, and the clay foundations of Makalanga huts and granaries can
be seen in every enclosure on floors overlying rudely filled-in areas.
These ruins occupy an area of 62 yds. from east to west, and 54 yds.
from north to south. The portion of the ruins in the best condition, as
well as the most important parts, are situated on the west side. The
north and east portions are the most dilapidated. The building on the
north and north-east sides is on the edge of a sharp slope down into a
valley which contains the walls of several minor ruins.
[Illustration: N^o. 1 RUINS Zimbabwe]
The main or outer wall of these ruins runs for 185 ft. from the west
entrance on the west side of the building round in a curve outwards
towards the west-north-west, north, and north-east. There are three
short gaps in the northern portion of the wall. On the whole, the
greater portion of the wall is still in a fairly good condition,
it being from 12 ft. to 15 ft. high above the outside level of the
bed-rock on which its foundations are laid. The wall is practically
plumb as compared with the main wall of the Elliptical Temple, besides
being angular at the entrances. It is 4 ft. wide at 6 ft. above the
outside level, but the north-western side is slightly wider. The wall,
though substantially constructed, does not show great evenness of
courses, while the sizes of the blocks vary considerably. Near the west
entrance it is very poorly built, while the wall on the opposite side
of the passage is excellently constructed. Possibly this indifferently
built portion was repaired at a much later date. It is on this wall
that grew the tall aloes and large euphorbia trees, some of which have
recently been removed. The north and north-east portions of the wall,
being built upon the edge of the declivity, tend to give the wall
a more imposing appearance, while its elevated position commands a
splendid view of “The Valley of Ruins.” The large mound on the north
side of the north-west entrance is soil débris brought by explorers
from the interior of the ruins in 1892.
Three entrances pass through this wall, on the west, north-west, and
north sides.
The west entrance is 2 ft. 6 in. to 3 ft. wide, the west side wall
being 4 ft. to 5 ft. high, and the east side 5 ft. to 7 ft. high. The
entrance walls are plumb and angular. There are no buttresses on either
side, and no portcullis groves. The entrance leads into Enclosure A,
but there are traces of a wall which runs across the inside at a short
distance, and might have been that of a sort of vestibule to Enclosure
A. Immediately on the outside of this entrance there is a passage
between the outer face of the main wall on the east side and the east
wall of Enclosures W X Y Z on the west side, and this passage, which is
46 ft. long, 3 ft. 6 in. wide and has the west side wall 5 ft. high,
actually forms part of the entrance. At 31 ft. from the north end of
the passage there is one side of a rounded entrance into Enclosure Y.
There are no traces of steps having been built here.
The north-west entrance was evidently the main entrance. It is the
largest and best-constructed of all these entrances. It has a banquette
wall on either hand in the interior, also a strongly built vestibule
with entrances into Enclosures C and D, and opposite the entrance on
the outside are walls of other ruins.
It is 3 ft. 6 in. wide, 7 ft. long, and the walls on either side are
only 6 ft. high, but they rise sharply to the level of the general line
of summit of the wall. Three feet of the length of the entrance on the
east side are formed by the end of the banquette wall, but on the west
side the banquette wall is only about 16 in. wide. The entrance is
angular and plumb and has portcullis grooves. This is the only instance
so far discovered where a completely angular entrance has portcullis
grooves, also the only instance where the main or, indeed, any outer
entrance has such grooves, except the north entrance to this ruin,
which is partly angular and partly rounded. There is no indication that
this entrance was once covered in.
Immediately on the inside of this entrance is a small enclosure which
served as a vestibule and as an approach to enclosures C and D. This is
9 ft. long, 6 ft. wide, and the walls are from 5 ft. to 8 ft. above the
paved floor which was destroyed some years ago. At the west end there
is a passage 4 ft. 4 in. long and 2 ft. 10 in. wide with angular sides
leading into Enclosure C, the walls on either side being 4 ft. to 5 ft.
high. At the east end of this vestibule is a passage 9 ft. long and 2
ft. 10 in. wide leading to Enclosure D, the walls on either side being
5 ft. to 7 ft. high.
The north entrance opens into Enclosure D at its north-east corner. It
is angular on the outside but rounded on the inside. It is 2 ft. 10
in. wide, 4 ft. 6 in. long, and the walls on either side are now only
from 3 ft. to 5 ft. high. There are portcullis grooves in the rounded
portions of the side walls. The entrance does not pass through the wall
at right angles, but obliquely towards the north, which the opening
faces. A wall runs north for 15 ft. from the east outer side of the
entrance, but its extremity terminates in block débris. In the angle
of the two walls at the outer foot of the entrance are traces of steps
leading for a few feet down the declivity along the west side of the
projecting wall.
The banquette wall rounds round the inside face of the main wall
on either side of the north-east or main entrance, and forms a
terrace behind it which would afford a good view over the main wall.
Practically the main wall and the banquette wall are one and the same
structure at certain points, since the stones of the main wall project
into the banquette; but at other points they are independent of each
other, and at these points the space between the two structures is
filled in with stones to the level of the summit of the banquette.
The eastern length of banquette starts from the east side of the
north-west entrance and runs along the inside of the main wall into
Enclosure D for a length of 17 ft., the summit being 6 ft. high
and 3 ft. 6 in. wide at the entrance and 5 ft. wide at its eastern
extremity. This length of banquette cannot be described as of excellent
workmanship.
The western length of banquette is 48 ft. long and 4 ft. to 8 ft.
high, and is 1 ft. wide at the north-west entrance, but widens out to
11 ft. at the west end, where it connects with the “conglomeration of
buttresses,” all rounded, which overlook every part of this ruin. The
workmanship in this length of banquette is somewhat inferior.
There are at least ten enclosures, and these, for the purposes of this
description, are lettered from A to H or named. On the west side there
are four outer enclosures, and these are lettered W to Z.
_Enclosure A._—The area of this enclosure is 105 ft. from north to
south, its longest points, and 51 ft. from east to west, its widest
points. It has four entrances.
The north-west entrance is the west entrance to these ruins, and has
already been described.
The south-west entrance is approached by an outer passage on this
side, but the actual entrance, owing to the amount of débris, can only
be traced, the débris being level with the summits of the walls on
either side. These walls are from 4 ft. to 5 ft. high, 3 ft. 6 in. on
their present summits, and are fairly well built. The passage walls
are 8 ft. apart for a length of 64 ft. from this enclosure towards the
south-west, at which point they curve off in different directions,
the west side wall running a further 51 ft. towards the west, with
traces of continuation. The east side wall curves round towards the
south-south-east for 105 ft., including gaps, and at its extremity
it becomes lost in débris, but in all probability, judging by recent
clearing away of débris and also by excavations, it ran up to the west
outer face of the Elliptical Temple. There are no signs of any entrance
passing through these side walls. The workmanship of both walls is
fairly good.
The north-east entrance is from Enclosure E, which lies on the
north-east side. This was a wide entrance with rounded sides, and
appears to have been built at a higher level than the floor of
Enclosure A, but the entrance and the steps leading up to it are now
almost lost in débris.
The east entrance is from Enclosure B. This was rounded, but is now
filled in to the top by wall débris.
The floor of this enclosure is formed by bed-rock. The highest parts of
the walls are as follows: south side, 4 ft.; east side, 7 ft.; north
side, 14 ft.; and west side, 5 ft. to 8 ft.
_Enclosure B._—The area of this enclosure, which lies at the south-east
side of Enclosure A, is 49 ft. from north to south and 23 ft. from east
to west. This enclosure has two entrances, the one on the west side
being the east entrance to Enclosure A, while the one on the north
side is from a passage which connects this enclosure with Enclosure F.
Both entrances are rounded. This enclosure appears to have been cleared
out to below the levels of the bottom of the foundations.
The passage connecting Enclosures B and F runs from south-west to
north-east. Including the two entrances, it is 23 ft. long, and 3 ft.
wide at the south-west end, and 5 ft. wide at the north-east end. The
side walls, which are very substantial, are still 8 ft. high. The
entrance from this passage into Enclosure F is formed by two large
rounded buttresses with portcullis grooves.
_Enclosure C._—This enclosure is on the west side of the ruins, and
is on the south side of the main and north-west entrance to these
ruins, and north of Enclosure A, and is on the inner side of the west
portion of the main wall. Its length from north to south is 43 ft.,
and its width from east to west 17 ft. The western length of banquette
wall forms its west side, and the face of this wall is poorly built.
The south wall must be considered as badly built. On its south and
south-east sides is the “conglomeration of buttresses,” the character
of which can better be seen by glancing at the accompanying plan. The
buttresses are almost circular, and have their centres filled with
stones, thrown in most promiscuously. The east wall is well built;
still it is inferior to any of the main walls of the Elliptical Temple.
Through this wall is an aperture 2 ft. wide and with side walls 3 ft.
high. The floor of this enclosure has been cleared away in places,
showing the foundations of the walls.
_Enclosure D._—This enclosure is on the inner side of the north portion
of the main wall, and east of the north-west entrance to these ruins
and of the Entrance Enclosure.
The area of this enclosure is 41 ft. from north to south, and 45 ft.
from east to west. It is bounded on the north, west, and south sides by
the banquette and main walls for 23 ft., on the west by the Entrance
Enclosure for 5 ft., and by Enclosure EE for 18 ft., on the south by
a wall dividing it from Enclosure E for 10 ft., but the rest of the
southern boundary wall for 12 ft. is now only débris, and in places can
barely be traced. On the east side is a wall 15 ft. long, 4 ft. high, 2
ft. 10 in. wide on present summit, which separates this enclosure from
Enclosure H; the rest of the eastern boundary is lost in débris.
From the north inner side of the main wall at 20 ft. from the
north-west corner of this enclosure there is a wall 4 ft. high
projecting southwards into the enclosure for 5 ft., and this has an
angular end.
A wall 6 ft. long, forming part of the passage from the north-west
entrance, projects into this enclosure. Judging by the arrangement of
débris in the space between this wall and the main wall, it is very
probable that there were steps here leading up to the summit of the
banquette wall.
At the eastern corner of this enclosure is the north entrance to these
ruins. This has already been described.
_Enclosure EE._—This enclosure is bounded on the north by Enclosure
D, on the north-west by Entrance Enclosure, on the west by Enclosure
C, and on the south by Enclosure E. Its area is 26 ft. from north to
south, and 27 ft. from east to west.
The floor of the south-west corner was once at a higher level than that
of the rest of the enclosure, and to this originally raised portion
there are remains of a narrow-rounded entrance on the south side, now
filled up with débris, from Enclosure E. There are traces of steps up
to this raised entrance. The floor of the aperture in the wall on the
east side of Enclosure C appears to have been on the level of this
raised floor.
_Enclosure E._—This lies directly to the south of Enclosure EE. Its
area is 49 ft. from north to south, and 48 ft. from east to west. It
is bounded on the west for 49 ft. by a wall and the “conglomeration
of buttresses” already mentioned, which respectively separates it from
Enclosures A and C; on the south for 45 ft. by Enclosures B and the
passage which connects Enclosures B and F; on the east for 36 ft. by
a wall and a large rounded buttress, which is one of the prominent
features of these ruins; the rest of the east boundary cannot be
traced, owing to débris piles; lastly, on the north by Enclosures EE
and D.
There are still two entrances remaining—one from Enclosure A and the
other from Enclosure C. Both are approached from the enclosure by
steps, now ruined but traceable, leading up either side of the central
buttress of the “conglomeration of buttresses.”
The large buttress on the east side is semi-circular, the centre of
its face is towards the west. It is 6 ft. high, 30 ft. round its face,
and is fairly well built, it being a wall with its internal portion
promiscuously thrown in till its summit was levelled throughout.
On the south-west are two rounded buttresses with their faces towards
the east and west respectively.
The enclosure contains piles of excavators’ soil débris of some age.
_Enclosure F._—This is situated on the east side of Enclosure E, and
lies between that enclosure and Enclosure G. Its area is roughly
circular, it being 37 ft. from north to south, and 42 ft. from east to
west. Its southern boundary is formed for 37 ft. by the outer south
wall of these ruins, which wall is 5 ft. high and 4 ft. wide on its
present very reduced summit. There is a gap of 12 ft. on its north-west
side, where there are now only traces of a wall.
The enclosure has two entrances now remaining—the entrance from the
passage leading from Enclosure B, which has already been described,
and an entrance through the outer south wall. This entrance which
is rounded is 2 ft. 6 in. wide, the side walls are 3 ft. high, and
there are portcullis grooves on either hand, and these have been
deliberately built up. This enclosure resembles the other portions of
these ruins with regard to large piles of soil débris on its area.
_Enclosure G._—This is the most easterly enclosure in these ruins. It
is bounded on the south by Enclosure F, on the west by Enclosure H,
and on the north and east by the outer east wall of the ruins, which
wall is 8 ft. high and 3 ft. 6 in. wide on its present summit. Its
area is 35 ft. from east to west, and 47 ft. from north to south. It
possessed three entrances, and these were on its west, north, and east
sides. The west entrance is barely distinguishable, but has traces of
its having been angular. The north entrance has rounded sides, and
leads from Enclosure H, a wall 22 ft. long and 5 ft. high forming a
division between the two enclosures. The enclosure has been filled in
with débris up to the level of this wall and overlooks the east end of
Enclosure H, which here is very much lower. The east entrance through
the outer wall is rounded on its south side, but the north side has
disappeared.
_Enclosure H._—This lies on the inner side of the north and north-east
portions of the main wall, which here is considerably broken. It is
bounded on the west by Enclosure D, on the south by Enclosures E and
F, and on the east by Enclosure G. Most probably there was an entrance
between the main wall on the east side and Enclosure G, and this led
to the network of ruins which are built up against this side of No. 1
Ruins and extend for some 300 yds. towards the east. The area of this
enclosure is 53 ft. from east to west, and 31 ft. from north to south.
The western end of this enclosure is considerably higher than the
eastern end.
_Outer enclosures._—Four enclosures lie to the west of the south-west
extremity of the main wall, and are separated from it by the passage
which leads to the west entrance of these ruins, and connects these
enclosures with Enclosure A.
These enclosures adjoin one another in a single line broadways from
south to north, there being a common wall for all of them on their west
sides. These enclosures are lettered W to Z, commencing at the south
end.
Their areas are as follows:—
W 25 ft. N. to S., and 20 ft. E. to W.
X 15 ft. 〃 26 ft. 〃
Y 12 ft. 〃 22 ft. 〃
Z 16 ft. 〃 19 ft. 〃
RIDGE RUINS
These ruins are situated on the highest point of the bare granite ridge
which extends from the north-west of the _Elliptical Temple_ towards
the north-west, and curves towards the north, where it terminates at
_Havilah Camp_.
The southern extremity of these ruins is 140 yds. from the north-west
side of the _Elliptical Temple_ and 100 yds. west of _No. 1 Ruins_. The
path from the outspan and camp to the water springs and the _Elliptical
Temple_ passes close to its west side, while another path to the
_Temple_ passes close to its east side. The _Outer Defence Wall_,
which runs from the west side of the _Temple_ round towards the west,
north-west, and north of the _Acropolis Hill_, runs parallel to the
west side of these ruins at a distance of 96 ft. A number of euphorbia
trees and aloes line its walls, which are now comparatively low, the
highest parts being about 9 ft.
The whale-back granite glacis on which these ruins are built dips
sharply from immediately outside the walls all round these ruins,
except at the south-east end, which is here only slightly higher than
the present ground level outside the _Elliptical Temple_. Except for
vegetable mould at a few points, the whole of the floors of these ruins
are formed by the formation rock.
The plan of these ruins shows an oval area, with a long and wide outer
passage running along its east side for 246 ft. from the north to the
south of the oval enclosure, this passage having its southern extremity
well protected by traverses and buttressed entrances.
These ruins, though built of irregularly sized stones, have the faces
of the walls which still remain remarkably true and even, so much so
that experienced builders after examining the walls state that with
such irregularly sized stones it would be most difficult to erect
walls with faces as true as those of these ruins. There appears to
be no similarity whatever between the second-period architecture and
construction and these ruins, except that the filling-in of the walls
between their faces is more promiscuous than is the case with walls
of first-period architecture and construction. Its entrances and
buttresses are all rounded, and the walls have a fair batter-back,
there being no plumb wall present.
[Illustration: Sketch Plan RIDGE RUINS Zimbabwe.]
It would be difficult to state the purpose these ruins were intended to
serve, but seeing they occupy the most westerly position of the main
ruins’ area, and that they are built on a commanding and strategetic
position, it might be inferred, if their claim to any great antiquity
were established, that their purpose was that of a fort, defending
not only the westerly side of the main ruins’ area, but also part of
a main line of communication, of which the Parallel Passage formed
a section, between the _Elliptical Temple_ and the west end of the
_Acropolis Hill_. This suggestion is, in fact, apparently supported by
the numerous traverses in the passage, traces of which can still be
noticed, and by the fact that the oval enclosure overlooks the passage
throughout its length. But, as stated before, these ruins cannot at
present be classed as _ancient_, though they are undoubtedly of great
age.
_Oval Enclosure._—The area of the oval enclosure is 170 ft. from north
to south, and 86 ft. from east to west. These are its longest and its
widest points. The floor is formed by comparatively level surfaces of
granite rock. There is very little soil within the enclosure, and this
consists of black mould, decomposed cement, and native clay. The walls
still standing average some 4 ft. to 7 ft. in height, and are about 3
ft. 6 in. wide on their present reduced summits, and are battered-back.
Plumb and angular walls are absent. The east wall is at one point
carried over a large boulder 8 ft. high, and a few courses of blocks on
the summit still remain. The north wall is considerably dilapidated,
and the débris of this portion lies on the face of the declivity.
The external faces of the walls are in a much better condition than
the inner faces, for trees and shrubs which could not grow on the
outer granite slopes manage to thrive in the very scanty soil of the
interior. This enclosure has been used by the natives as a cattle
kraal. Though cattle could not climb into the enclosure from outside,
they no doubt damaged the inside faces of the walls by attempting to
get outside from over the walls. The material for the stone foundations
of circular huts of no very great age, which are to be seen in the
enclosure, was very probably taken from the inside faces of the walls.
These Makalanga stone foundations, which are identical with those found
in old Makalanga kraals, occupy the following positions. At 60 ft.
from the south end and 12 ft. from the west side, foundations of stone
blocks 19 ft. in diameter. At 110 ft. from south end and almost facing
the west entrance, stone foundations of hut 22 ft. in diameter. At 8
ft. from north end foundation blocks disarranged and exact measurement
impossible. At 60 ft. from south end and 10 ft. from east side is
another foundation, but here again the blocks have become considerably
disturbed.
This enclosure has two entrances, and these are on the south and west
sides respectively. The south entrance is comparatively intact, but the
west entrance is buried in wall débris and can only be traced on one
side. Both are rounded. The south entrance walls are 3 ft. 6 in. high,
the passage is 2 ft. wide and 7 ft. long, and there are portcullis
grooves. The north side of the west entrance is formed by a large
boulder 6 ft. high.
There is no trace of ornamentation on the walls, but if it ever
existed, the walls having become so reduced, it must have disappeared.
No article was found for which the slightest antiquity could be
claimed, all the finds being obviously of native make, though somewhat
superior to their make of to-day.
_Parallel Passage._—Roughly speaking, the passage throughout its length
of 246 ft. from north to south runs parallel with the east wall of
the oval enclosure and follows it round in its curves, but narrowing
towards its southern extremity. There is no entrance from the passage
to the oval enclosure except at the south end. At the north end the
passage is 47 ft. wide, and the formation rock forms the floor; at
40 ft. further south the passage is 36 ft. wide; at 80 ft. from the
north end 22 ft. wide; at 160 ft., 19 ft. wide; at 190 ft., 13 ft.
wide, which width is maintained as far as the southern extremity. The
heights of the outer wall vary from 5 ft. to 7 ft., the best-preserved
lengths being near the southern end, where a pair of traverses with
rounded ends stand at a few feet north of the south entrance to the
passage. This entrance has rounded sides.
A passage crosses from east to west at the southern extremity, and in
it are three entrances with rounded sides. Opposite the south face
of the southern extremity of the passage, and at 6 ft. distance is
an independent screen wall, 16 ft. long and 5 ft. high, covering the
approach to the entrance from the south. At several points in the
parallel passage there are distinct traces of traverses.
The new path from _Havilah Camp_ to the _Elliptical Temple_ now runs
through the parallel passage of these ruins.
CAMP RUINS NO. 1.
Camp Ruins Nos. 1 and 2 lie north and south respectively of the
Shangani Grave, which separates them, the huts of the camp being built
on the north and wrest sides and within a few feet of the remains of
Camp Ruins No. 1, which is Sir John Willoughby’s No. 3 Ruins in his
_Further Excavations at Zimbabye_, 1892.
Sir John describes this ruin as follows:—
“Previous to my arrival, the only trace of ruins here was one
small stone buttress on the eastern side. My original intention
was to find any wall foundations that might exist, and then to
cross-cut right through the mound at their level from east to
west, and from north to south. But I was deterred from carrying
this out, because as the work proceeded, traces of cement
floors at different levels were discovered. By starting low
down the mound, I came upon a wall, varying in height from 4
ft. to 6 ft., which encircled it. The original height of this
wall can only be estimated by comparing the existing structure
with the fallen débris which was buried by an accumulation of
soil. At the foot of this wall, and on the outside, I found
many specimens of arrow-heads, Kafir pottery, bracelets, and
necklaces of iron and copper. I also found something which may
perhaps prove to be an object of special interest. This was a
piece of copper about 6 in. in length and a quarter of an inch
thick, covered with a green substance (whether enamel, paint,
or lacquer, I am unable to determine), and inlaid with one of
the triangular Zimbabwe designs. It was buried 5 ft. below
the surface, almost in contact with the east side of the wall
itself.
[Illustration: CAMP RUINS N^o. 1.
—Zimbabwe—]
“I also discovered a small cave under a big rock that
culminates in the highest point of the mound, but the only
object of interest here found, besides bits of coarse pottery,
was a piece of crystal or glass. On driving into the mound
through a somewhat broken entrance in the inside wall of the
west side, I was much puzzled by striking a level cement floor
some 4 ft. above the wall foundations, and on following this
level I came upon a second floor about 2 ft. above the first.
It would therefore seem that originally there were a series of
cement terraces, one above the other, culminating in a point
of observation on the south side on the summit of a large
rock, or that different occupants at varying dates had made
new floors. It was near this rock that I came upon one of the
few pieces of masonry inside the other wall, and that only
very fragmentary in character. In following the outside wall
on its inner face, I found it varied in width between 2 ft. 6
in. and 4 ft., and that its foundations also varied much in
depth. In the cutting thus made I came upon three small furnace
holes close together on a level with the top of the wall as it
now stands, the foundations of which increased in depth as I
proceeded, and disclosed here and there what appeared to be an
extensive layer of ashes with the bones and teeth of animals. A
notable peculiarity in this mound is the variety of stratified
soil with folding concave towards the centre. The surface soil
is more or less black; then comes a bright red clay divided by
a broad yellow streak, and below this a dash of yellow, with
here and there a vein of decomposed sandstone or other rocky
substance. During this excavation I was not very successful in
finds, which were only represented by three pieces of sea-green
china, one of which was lying in the solid red clay below the
surface, and 8 ft. to 10 ft. into the side of the mound, and
two dull green porcelain beads, found 7 ft. deep and near its
centre. Taking into consideration the ash beds and furnace
holes already referred to, I feel justified in suggesting that
once a workshop was here the scene of useful activity, and
at that time surrounded by an irregular wall for protective
purposes, with a point of outlook to guard against surprise,
such as the big rock with the summit would represent.”
As the author resided actually within Camp Ruins for fully two years
(1902–4), very frequent opportunities of thoroughly examining the walls
have presented themselves, the result being that it is now ascertained
that these ruins as seen to-day can be shown to be not ancient but of
a some very old Makalanga period. The furnace holes alluded to have
been used for iron-smelting, and to the depth of 11 ft. no single
article approaching an antique or even mediæval character has been
found within or near its walls. The brass wire bangles found at depth
still have their grass, hair, or fibre intact. Garden hoes, assegai
heads, and coarse pottery of ordinary Kafir make are here found in
abundance. The green pottery beads are found in almost every ruin at
Zimbabwe, and never at lower depth than the yellow soil which lies
immediately under the black vegetable mould on the floors of all the
ruins. Certainly, the present natives do not know this class of beads.
That this building, as suggested by Sir John Willoughby, was once a
workshop is obvious from the quantities of iron slag and ashes and
burnt clay floors and iron furnaces found in the vicinity. The bones
of animals are mainly those of buck of all kinds. The construction of
the walls precludes any suggestion that they could have been standing
very many centuries, certainly not extending back to any period which
could, even by long inference, be considered “ancient.” The workmanship
is decidedly poorer than that shown in modern Kafir buildings in the
district.
But while this ruin, as seen to-day, may not itself be ancient, there
is some evidence that the ancients must have fortified this knoll;
and when we consider its strategetic position on the granite ridge,
extending from the south-west foot of the Acropolis Hill and the
Elliptical Temple, it becomes highly probable that later people have
utilised the material of some older buildings once occupying this
position in the erection of their poorer structures. Foundations of
walls surround the knoll at distances of some fifty and one hundred
yards from these ruins, and these show a fair claim to be recognised as
ancient, or, at any rate, as older than the walls on the summit. The
“cement” mentioned by Sir John is common soil _daga_ (clay), similar to
that found in old Makalanga huts and floors.
The ruin crowning the knoll is roughly circular, with a diameter of
about 100 ft., with walls varying in height from 4 ft. to 6 ft. The
accompanying plan, with explanatory notes, kindly lent to the author
by Sir John Willoughby, shows the character of this ruin. The “finds”
made here in 1902–3 are identical with those discovered by Sir John
Willoughby.
CAMP RUIN No. 2
This ruin lies 50 ft. south of Camp Ruins No. 1, and is on the same
knoll, the two being separated from each other by the Shangani
graveyard.
[Illustration: CAMP RUINS N^o. 2
—Zimbabwe—]
Sir John Willoughby writes:—
“I carefully attacked Ruin No. 2, but with a disappointing result. It
merely appears to be an enclosure formed by an irregular outside wall,
varying in thickness and in the depth of its foundations. In tracing
this wall, the bed-rock was occasionally exposed at a depth of 3 ft.
The only ‘finds’ here were two small pieces of sea-green china, one
small piece of white china, a few Kafir arrow-heads, whorls of poor
make, two fragments of pottery having a kind of basket design, and a
copper or brass clasp or fastening, which probably formed part of a box
of modern date.”
This ruin has recently been re-examined with similarly disappointing
result, and the remarks made with regard to No. 1 Ruin apply equally
to this ruin. Clay foundations and floors of old Kafir huts fill the
interior at different levels. Probably in the most ancient period, long
before the present structures were erected, one large ruin occupied the
site of both Nos. 1 and 2 Ruins, and encircled and crowned the knoll,
for judging from very old foundations, walls surrounded the knoll. At
least there were two such walls, one being within and higher than the
other.
CHAPTER XXI
RUINS NEAR ZIMBABWE
East Ruins—Other Ruins within the Zimbabwe Ruins’ Area.
EAST RUINS
These ruins lie 20 yds. to the south of the Motelekwe Road at 550 yds.
east of Havilah Camp, and face the east end of the Acropolis Hill at a
distance of 300 yds. south.
They occupy a rise overlooking the Valley of Ruins, and are built
upon an open granite glacis which originally formed its floor. Their
elevated and strategetic position at once claim the attention of
visitors. These ruins have always been written and spoken of as being
a fort for the defence of the east side of the Valley of Ruins, and,
in fact, for all the ruins of the lower Zimbabwe group, including the
Elliptical Temple, and especially for the eastern end of the South-East
Ancient Ascent to the Acropolis. Judging from the contour of the
country round about, the only possible line the ancient road from the
east and the coast could have taken must have passed within a few yards
of this ruin.
The view from East Ruins towards the east is most extensive and
picturesque, for the land slopes on that side for over two miles
towards the Beroma Range and the valley of the Motelekwe, while in the
hollow are the Chipo-popo and Mapudzi rivers. Opposite are the peculiar
and romantic columns of granite near Chenga’s kraal.
For the purposes of defence these ruins are ideally situated. On the
south side they are protected by a steep declivity of some 40 ft. into
the valley, and down this the original builders and later occupiers
have shot their débris in great quantities. The space between the ruin
and the declivity, some 25 yds. in width and 100 ft. in length, is
covered with short lengths of walls and wall débris.
[Illustration: Sketch Plan
EAST RUINS Motelekwe Road Great Zimbabwe
_Single figures are heights of walls in feet._]
The area covered by these ruins is 140 ft. from north to south, and 93
ft. from east to west. It is most probable that on the south and east
sides there were other enclosures.
The walls on the north, west, and south are fairly well built and
massive, and are still some 8 ft. to 10 ft. in height, and average 3
ft. 6 in. to 4 ft. width of summit at those heights. The walls on the
south-east and east average a height of from 4 ft. to 7 ft., while the
divisional walls which remain have a reduced height of 4 ft. and 5 ft.,
and these latter are also substantially constructed.
There are four well-defined enclosures, the two on the west side being
the most perfect. The northern enclosure had once been subdivided into
at least six separate compartments.
Both in plan and construction these ruins excel most of the minor
ruins, including No. 1 Ruins, and many walls on the Acropolis. The
curved lines of the walls on the northern and southern sides are bold
and striking, and well and exactly carried out. Their solidity is very
noticeable, especially on both outer and inner faces. Not only are the
courses in these walls fairly even, but the blocks are well-sized and
are of a good quality of granite. In some portions of the walls the
workmanship is of an inferior character.
But, whatever the style of construction may be, the faces of the walls
are beautifully even from base to summit and also lengthways, for
placing one’s eye close up against the wall and glancing along an area
of wall-face, there is hardly to be seen half an inch of front of block
protruding in front of its neighbours. This, of course, does not apply
to the batter-back, which is only that of an average wall at Zimbabwe.
The impression gained on viewing these massive walls, which occupy such
an excellently strategetic position, is that the original builders
intended the building to be used for some important purpose.
The northern enclosure is 60 ft. from north to south, and 67 ft.
from east to west. The south-west enclosure is 61 ft. from north to
south, and 51 ft. from east to west. The eastern enclosure is 55 ft.
from north to south, and 22 ft. from east to west. The south-eastern
enclosure, which is rather rudely constructed, and the walls of which
are very considerably dilapidated, is 20 ft. from north to south, and
80 ft. from east to west.
There are three entrances through the outer walls, and these are on the
west, south, and east, and all are rounded; two have buttresses, one
has portcullis grooves, and the foundation forms the passage floor in
each case. Two divisional entrances now only remain, and these are also
rounded.
Immediately inside the west entrance and on the north side is what
appears to have been a raised platform, facing west, about 4 ft. above
the original floor. This may have an area of 15 ft. from north to
south by 12 ft. from east to west, but the artificial filling-in of
the ruin with soil has raised the interior surface to the level of
this platform. Probably, as at other ruins at Zimbabwe with identical
platforms in corresponding positions, this afforded a look-out
overlooking the entrance. On the eastern side of these ruins there is a
similar but smaller structure which may have answered the same purpose.
In the eastern enclosure and on the east face of the west wall is a
recess starting upwards from the ground. This is 3 ft. high, 1 ft. 10
in. wide, and the blocks on each side respectively are flush-edged with
each other. The recess goes back about the length of two blocks (see
_Architecture_—_Blind Recesses_).
These ruins have been artificially filled in with soil to a depth of 3
ft. to 5 ft. by native occupiers of a comparatively late date, for the
soil on the surface and downwards to the bottom of the filling-in is
thick with old native pottery and the broken-up remains of Kafir huts.
Although almost every relic-hunter seems to have paid attention
to these ruins, nothing of any antique value has been found here.
Probably when the original occupiers left the granite floors were
still exposed, and any objects found there may have been removed long
before the filling-in took place. So far, there is no evidence that any
industry—whether of ancient, mediæval, or modern occupiers—has ever
been carried on in this building.
OTHER RUINS WITHIN THE ZIMBABWE RUINS’ AREA
_Bentberg (Matusu)._—This kopje, which is 240 ft. above the threshold
of the West Entrance to the Elliptical Temple, lies immediately south
and south-west of the temple. Only 200 yds. separate the building from
the foot of the hill. Here are many signs of very old occupations in
the form of ruined terrace walls apparently of the Zimbabwe style, but
of a very late period. The local Makalanga state that though their
predecessors of the same race have had kraals on this hill, the terrace
walls are not of any Makalanga construction; and this appears to be
obvious. Further, though Makalanga pottery is abundant, yet there
can be found both pottery and cement of a very superior quality and
make; and such are repudiated by the natives as having been made by
Amangwa, Makalanga, or Barotse. Great quantities of quartz broken into
very small splinters are to be found in large areas on the hill. The
nearest quartz reefs are six miles west of Zimbabwe. The older remains
of terraces—many buried in silted soil—are to be found on the north
side of the hill, but traces of walls can be met with extending almost
to the summit and round the western flank. It is impossible to imagine
that the ancients did not in some manner occupy the hill, as otherwise
the Elliptical Temple would have been exposed on its south side without
any defences. The old Barotse had a kraal at the foot of the north side
of the hill just above the spot where are still the traces of Bent’s
camp.
_Rusivanga Kopje._—This hill (190 ft.) rises from the Zimbabwe Valley
at some 300 yds. west of Havilah Camp. It is directly on the right of
the road from Victoria to Zimbabwe at about a third of a mile from
the main ruins, the road passing between it and Makuma Kopje on which
is Mogabe’s kraal. The northern and eastern faces of this hill show
in places from base to summit abundant evidence of occupations by
ancients and also by very old Makalanga and Barotse. The remains of
walls are in most instances of inferior construction, though at some
points the courses of excellently built wall can be traced. There are
also rudely built ramparts and enclosure walls of some later period. On
the summit of the hill was once a fort. Fragments of soapstone, slate,
quartz, and ironstone are to be found, also large stone-crushers, some
excellent pottery, and cement work of superior quality. At one point
is a cement wall carried across the top of a boulder. There are stone
foundations of Makalanga huts which are circular and lined with cement,
and winnowing floors with raised edges. On the eastern side of the
hill two sets of _isafuba_ game-holes have been cut into the surface
of the granite rock. Each of these has thirty-six holes. On the west
side and near the summit there are at least thirty different sets of
game-holes cut into the granite, the holes of the sets varying in size.
On the open granite areas on the hill are several places where deep
depressions have been worn into the rock, evidently by the sharpening
of tools or by grinding stones.
_Ruin on Bingura’s Path._—This is located on the left-hand side of the
path leading to Bingura’s kraal at about half a mile from the camp.
Only its south-east wall is now standing, but its outlines can be
traced by piles of blocks on all other sides. The area covered is about
half an acre. The wall is well and substantially built, and is still 6
ft. high. This appears to be of very old construction. There have been
no important “finds” made here, the ruin not having yet been examined.
It occupies a strategetic position on slightly raised ground in the
valley between the Bentberg and Rusivanga.
RUIN NEAR CHENGA’S KRAAL
This is situated one mile and a quarter east of Havilah Camp, and is
the most easterly ruin of the Zimbabwe group. It stands upon a low
ledge on the west side of the Beroma Range, and is a quarter of a mile
west of Chenga’s kraal, and directly overlooks the Mapudzi stream,
which flows at about 60 ft. immediately below the west face of the
ruin. The position is strategetic and affords a view over several
valleys. The area covered by walls and stone débris is fully an acre
and a half, but the actual walls now standing in any recognisable form
of plan only cover 100 ft. by 80 ft.
A cluster of large boulders has been utilised, and over these and
between them the walls have been erected, the interior being filled
up with earth almost up to the summits of the walls by some later
occupiers. On clearing this foreign soil from the interior faces
of the walls, two buried entrances, both rounded, were discovered,
and it was then possible to prepare a plan of such of the walls as
were so cleared. Nothing of any antique value was found during these
operations, all the “finds,” which were not numerous, being of old
native articles.
All the walls are curved, and all buttresses, entrances, and ends of
walls are rounded, and have a distinct batter-back. The granite blocks
in some portions of the walls are as regular in size and shape as those
to be seen in the Elliptical Temple, but the construction is not of
the best. The outer faces of the walls have been first raised, and the
internal portions afterwards filled in with stones of all sizes and
shapes, but larger than those seen in the filling-in of the interiors
of many of the walls at Khami Ruins. The courses at some points are
very regular, but at others there has been no attempt at making any
courses. The column style of building adopted by old Makalanga and
Barotse is present in parts. The walls average about 4 ft. in width at
base and 3 ft. on present reduced summit. There is no mural decorative
work introduced.
[Illustration: Sketch Plan
RUIN near CHENGA’S KRAAL
(Zimbabwe)]
The natives state that this ruin was not built by the same people that
built the rough walls of the minor ruins at Zimbabwe, their theory
being that it was erected by Barotse very many generations ago, and
on this point they are very emphatic. The translations of the native
expressions for relics are “pretty stone” and “money.” In starting work
here, the labourers, who receive small rewards for discovering relics,
grumbled considerably, and informed the author that it was useless to
work there, as no “pretty stones” or “money” would be found there.
Similar remarks were made about other small ruins, and in every case
they have been proved to be correct. Whether this ruin has actually any
claim to antiquity is a matter which, at present, it would be unsafe to
dogmatise upon.
CHENGA’S AND MADAVID PATH RUINS
These ruins are in a valley which runs north and south on the Beroma
Range at one mile distance south-east of Chenga’s kraal, and lie a few
yards to the west of the native path leading from Chenga’s to Madavid’s
kraal. Madavid is the native name for David, a Basuto, who lives near.
The area covered is fully a third of an acre on the summit of a knoll,
which rises some 30 ft. above the valley. Traces of walls covering an
area of an acre and a half are to be seen on the south, west, and north
sides. Large granite boulders have been utilised in the construction,
the walls being carried in curved lines from boulder to boulder,
enclosing a rudely drawn circular area 51 ft. from east to west, and
42 ft. from north to south. In one instance the wall is carried over a
boulder.
The faces of the walls show good workmanship, the courses being fairly
even, the joints uniformly distributed, and the blocks regular in size.
The bases of the walls average from 4 ft. to 5 ft. in width, while the
very reduced summits are 3 ft. 6 in. wide at 5 ft. from the ground. The
walls display a carefulness in construction which is absent from some
of the divisional walls of the main ruins at Zimbabwe. The side walls
of the entrance on the east side of the building are most perfectly
rounded. There is no mural decoration. The interior of the building is
of earth, which contains Kafir pottery, etc. No exploration work has
been done here.
MAPAKU, OR “LITTLE ZIMBABWE” RUINS
These ruins are situated at a distance of seven miles south-east of
Zimbabwe, and occupy a position overlooking the Motelekwe Valley,
and are on the eastern side of the lower shoulders of the southern
extremity of the Beroma Range. On the south side of the ruins the
ground falls in the direction of the Motelekwe River, which here flows
south to south-west of the ruins at the distance of about a mile. The
Mapaku kraal is a quarter of a mile north-west of the ruins. At the
village are some caves (_I-Baku_, cave; _Mapaku_, caves). The headman
is a Molinye, younger brother to the Mogabe Handisibishe of Zimbabwe.
Good water can be obtained from several places in the vicinity of the
ruins.
[Illustration: MAPAKU RUINS or “Little Zimbabwe”]
The area covered by these ruins, excepting traces of outlying walls,
is 70 ft. from north to south, and 80 ft. from east to west. Though
the ruins are small in area, yet they have a considerable importance,
seeing that they form one of the ruins of the chain of such structures
which stretches at certain intervals from Zimbabwe along the Motelekwe
River, which chain again connects with the chain of a similar class
of ruins running from the lower Sabi in Portuguese territory in the
direction of Sofala. The chains of ruins appear to point out the
ancient approach from the coast to the metropolitan centre at Zimbabwe
and the gold districts of Southern Mashonaland and Matabeleland.
The thickness and height of the walls are the first features which
will strike anyone on entering the building, especially when the small
size of the centre ruins are taken into consideration. The walls are
all built on curved lines, and average a width of 4 to 5 ft. at the
base, and 3 ft. at present reduced summits at 8 ft. above the ground.
All the walls are built upon the granite rock formation, and there is
comparatively very little soil on the floors, and most of this is black
vegetable mould. Fortunately these ruins have not been subjected to the
filling-in operations of the very old Kafir peoples as have so very
many ancient ruins in Rhodesia. The absence of sufficient soil for the
growth of large trees has no doubt saved the walls from more serious
dilapidation. The walls are white with lichen, this being a feature in
all the ruins along the Motelekwe Valley, which, seen from Zimbabwe, is
usually filled with mist-fogs.
The main entrance evidently is the one on the south-west side of the
building, for here is a long narrow passage leading from the interior,
the passage running parallel to the south main wall forming an easily
defended approach. The ruins have only two entrances—the main entrance
and an angular entrance on the north side without portcullis grooves.
This latter entrance leads into an outer enclosure only, and is
protected on the inside by what may be described as a “sentry-box.”
This is a curved wall 7 ft. long and 5 ft. high, enclosing a small area
large enough to hold two or three men, and its entrance opens on to the
inside of the entrance in the main wall. There are several of these
“sentry-boxes” at Zimbabwe occupying exactly similar positions near
entrances.
The interior of the building contains at least four enclosures and two
long passages, and these may be described as follows:—
No. 1 Enclosure, which is on the north-east side of the ruins, is
22 ft. from east to west, and 13 ft. 6 in. from north to south. The
floor is formation rock covered over (1903) with a few inches’ depth of
vegetable mould. The main wall, which forms its north and east sides,
is 6 ft. high throughout, the wall on the west is 8 ft. high, and the
curved walls which divide this enclosure from No. 2 Enclosure average
6 ft. and 7 ft. in height, except at the entrance to No. 2 Enclosure,
where the height on either side is reduced to 5 ft.