This Strait, which separates Anglesea from the main land, although
bearing only the appearance of a river, is an arm of the sea, and most
dangerous in its navigation at particular periods of the tide, and in
boisterous weather: during the flood, from the rush of water at each
extremity, it has a double current, the clash of which, termed Pwll
Ceris, it is highly rash and dangerous to encounter. In the space of
fifteen miles, there are six established ferries: the first of which to
the south is Abermenai, the next near Caernarvon, and three miles north
from the first is Tal y foel; four miles further, Moel y don; three miles
beyond which is the principal one, called Porthaethwy, but more generally
known as Bangor Ferry; it is the narrowest part of the Strait, and is
only about half a mile wide; this is the one over which the mails and
passengers pass on their route to and from Holyhead, and near which is
the bridge, of which a particular description and plan is for the first
time given; a mile further north is the fifth, Garth Ferry; and the
sixth, and widest ferry at high water, is between the village of Aber and
Beaumaris. Yet notwithstanding these ferries, the principal part of the
horned cattle that pass from Anglesea are compelled by their drivers to
swim over the passage at Bangor Ferry, to the terror and injury of the
animals, and the disgust and horror of the bystanders.
There appears but little doubt of Anglesea having been once connected
with the main land, as evident traces of an isthmus are discernible near
Porthaeth-hwy; where a dangerous line of rocks nearly cross the channel,
and cause such eddies at the first flowing of the tide, that the
contending currents of the Menai seem here to struggle for superiority.
This isthmus once destroyed, and a channel formed, it has been the work
of ages, by the force of spring tides and storms, gradually to deepen and
enlarge the opening; as it appears by history, that both Roman and
British cavalry, at low water, during neap tides, forded or swam over the
Strait, and covered the landing of the infantry from flat-bottomed boats.
The violent rush of water, and consequent inconvenience, delay, and
danger, when the wind and tide are unfavourable to the passage over
Bangor Ferry, in the present state of constant and rapid communication
with Ireland, gave rise to the idea of forming a bridge over the Menai.
Various estimates and plans were submitted to the public consideration by
our most celebrated engineers, and men of science; when, after numerous
delays, Mr. Telford’s design for one on the suspension principle was
adopted, and money granted by parliament for carrying it into effect.
The first stone of this magnificent structure was laid on the 10th of
August, 1819, without any ceremony, by the resident engineer, Mr. Provis,
and the contractors for the masonry.
“When on entering the Straits,” {189} says a recent author, “the bridge
is first seen, suspended as it were in mid air, and confining the view of
the fertile and richly-wooded shores, it seems more like a light ornament
than a massy bridge, and shows little of the strength and solidity which
it really possesses. But as we approached it nearer, whilst it still
retained its light and elegant appearance, the stupendous size and
immensity of the work struck us with awe; and when we saw that a brig,
with every stick standing, had just passed under it,—that a coach going
over appeared not larger than a child’s toy, and that foot-passengers
upon it looked like pigmies, the vastness of its proportions was by
contrast fully apparent.” The whole surface of the bridge is in length
1,000 feet, of which the part immediately dependent upon the chains is
590 feet, the remaining distance being supported by seven arches, four on
one side and three on the other, which fill up the distance from the main
piers to the shore. These main piers rise above the level of the road 50
feet, and through them, two archways, each 12 feet wide, admit a passage.
Over the top of these piers, four rows of chains, the extremities of
which are firmly secured in the rocks at each end of the bridge, are
thrown; two of them nearly in the centre, about four feet apart, and one
at each side. The floor of the road is formed of logs of wood, well
covered with pitch, and then strewn over with granite broken very small,
forming a solid body by its adhesion to the pitch impervious to the wet.
A light lattice work of wrought iron to the height of about six feet,
prevents the possibility of accidents by falling over, and allows a clear
view of the scenery on both sides, which can be seen to great advantage
from this height. Having expressed our admiration of the skill evident
in the construction, at once so simple and so useful, and having
satisfied our curiosity on the top, we descended by a precipitous path to
the level of the water, and gazed upwards with wonder, at the immense
flat surface above us, and its connecting gigantic arches. The road is
100 feet above high water, and the arches spring at the height of 60 feet
from abutments of solid masonry, with a span of 52 feet. These abutments
taper gradually from their base to where the arch commences, and immense
masses as they are, show no appearance of heaviness; indeed, taking the
whole of the Menai Bridge together, a more perfect union of beauty with
utility cannot be conceived. It has been erected to bear a weight upon
the chains of 2,000 tons; the whole weight at present imposed is only
500, leaving an available strength of 1,500 tons; so that there is an
easy remedy for a complaint which has been made of its too great
vibration in a gale of wind, by laying additional weight upon it. The
granite of which the piers and arches are built, is a species of marble,
admitting a very high polish; of this the peasantry in the neighbourhood
avail themselves, and every one has some specimen of polished marble
ready to offer the tourist. There is so much magnificence, beauty, and
elegance, in this grand work of art, that it harmonizes and accords
perfectly with the natural scenery around, and though itself an object of
admiration, still in connection it heightens the effect of the general
view.