the oldest episcopal see in Wales; being founded in 516.
The situation is deeply secluded, “far from the bustle of a jarring
world,” and must have accorded well with monastic melancholy; for the
Monks, emerging from their retired cells, might here indulge in that
luxurious gloominess, which the prospect inspires, and which would soothe
the asperities inflicted upon them by the severe discipline of
superstition. The situation of Bangor appears more like a scene of airy
enchantment than reality; and the residences of the Canons are endeared
to the votaries of landscape by the prospect they command. On the
opposite shore, the town of Beaumaris was seen straggling up the steep
declivity, with its quay crowded with vessels, and all appeared bustle
and confusion; the contrast, which the nearer prospect inspired, was too
evident to escape our notice, where the
“Oak, whose boughs were moss’d with age,
And high top bald with dry antiquity,”
afforded a seat for the contemplation of the wide expanse of the ocean,
which is seen beyond the little island of Puffin, or Priestholm; so
called from the quantity of birds of that species, which resort here in
the summer months.
The cathedral has been built at different times, but no part very
ancient; the church was burnt down by Owen Glendwr, in the reign of King
Henry IV.; the choir was afterwards built by Bishop Henry Dene, (or
Deane), between the years 1496 and 1500; the tower and nave by Bishop
Skevington, in 1532. The whole is Gothic architecture, with no other
particular ornament to distinguish it from a common English parish
church. There are, however, several bishops {185} buried in the choir.
I could dwell with pleasure on the picturesque beauties of this little
episcopal see; but a repetition of the same epithets, grand, beautiful,
sublime, fine, with a long catalogue, which must necessarily occur, would
appear tautologous on paper, though their archetypes in nature would
assume new colours at every change of position of the beholder.
This bishopric owes the chief of its revenues and immunities to Anian,
bishop of the diocese, in the reign of Edward the First; who being in
high favour with that monarch, and having had the honour of christening
the young prince, born at Caernarvon, afterwards Edward the Second, had,
as a compensation for the temporalities confiscated in the reign of King
Henry the Third, various manors, ferries, and grants from the revenues of
the principality allotted to the see.
Mr. Evans, in his valuable work, the Topography of North Wales, has
clearly refuted the improbable charge made against Bishop Bulkely, of
having sold the cathedral bells; and, on the contrary, proves from
documents, that the cathedral was indebted to him for considerable
repairs, and that likewise by his will he was a benefactor to it; this
falsehood, which originated with Godwin, in his Treatise, entitled “De
Presulibus,” as a piece of scandal against the church, met with but too
ready a belief from former tourists, whose false records, Mr. Evans
deserves great credit for refuting.
Bangor is governed by the Bishop, whose steward holds the courts. From
being a quiet, retired place, it has now become a scene of commercial
bustle and activity, and is rapidly rising into an important town. The
opening of Lord Penrhyn’s slate quarries, and the great increase of
travelling through it since the union with Ireland, have been the great
causes of its increased and growing prosperity. From the convenience for
sea-bathing, the excellent new roads which branch from it in every
direction, the beauties of scenery which surround it on every side, its
proximity to many of the finest objects which Wales can boast of, and the
great interest which is excited in the suspended bridge over the Menai
Strait, it has become a place of fashionable resort; and during the
summer exhibits a scene of gaiety and cheerfulness, that forms a striking
contrast to its ancient monastic gloom. The tourist will find this a fit
spot for his head quarters, as he can branch out in various directions,
and each affords him ample scope for his sketch-book, or his
contemplation.
Public baths are much wanted here; and it is to be hoped, that the spirit
of improvement, which has lately manifested itself in this neighbourhood,
will not rest till these are accomplished.
The castle is said to have been built by Hugh, Earl of Chester, in the
reign of William the Second; it stood on a steep hill, on the south side
of Bangor, called Castle Bank, but there is not at this time a vestige
remaining.
A pleasant walk leads to the Bangor Ferry Inn, delightfully situated,
overlooking the Straits of