“The vale of Rhyddol,” says Mr. Gilpin, “is a very grand and extensive
scene, continuing not less than ten miles, among rocks, hanging woods,
and varied ground, which, in some parts, become mountainous: while the
river is every where a beautiful object; and twice or three times, in its
passage through the vale, is interrupted in its course, and formed into a
cascade. This is a circumstance in a _vale_, I think, rather uncommon.
In a contracted _valley_ it is frequent: but _an extended vale_ is seldom
so interrupted as not to give way to the river on one side or the other.”
To the inquisitive pedestrian (for this vale is inaccessible for
carriages), the old Church of Llanbadem Vawr, which signifies the Church
of Great Paternus, a native of Bretagne, is particularly interesting;
who, as the writer of his life expresses it, “by feeding governed, and by
governing fed the Church of Cretica.” To his memory, this Church, and
formerly an episcopal see was founded; but the bishopric, as Roger
Hovedon writes, “early declined, because the parishioners slew their
pastor.” {100} As we drew near the