we paused at Llanryan bridge, to admire the rich banks rising on each
side of the river Ystwith, over which this bridge is thrown; it is built
in the style of the celebrated Pont-y-prid, in the vale of
Glamorganshire. We entered the town of Aberystwith over a temporary
wooden bridge. {95} In the year 1796, a stone bridge experienced the
same fate with many others in Wales, occasioned by a sudden thaw: Mr.
Edwards, from Dolgelly, has lately erected another, by contract,
consisting of six arches.
Aberystwith, partaking much of the dirt of seaports in general, is
situated at the termination of the vale of Rhyddol, in the bay of
Cardigan, and open to St. George’s Channel. The environs are stony and
rugged; the coast affords indifferent bathing, being much exposed; and
the shore rough and unpleasant. In fine, it is, in almost all respects,
the reverse of Tenby, except it has the advantage in the number of
houses, and, consequently, more company. At the extremity of the town,
upon an eminence, stand the ruins of an ancient castle, of which little
now remains but a solitary tower, overlooking a wide expanse of sea. It
was rendered famous, by being, at one time, the residence of the great
Cadwalader, and in all the Welsh wars was considered as a fortress of
great strength: it was built by Gilbert Strongbow, in the year 1107, and
rebuilt by King Edward I. in 1277, a few years before his complete
conquest of Wales. The ruin of the castle now affords a pleasant walk.
At this castle Edmund Goodere, Esq. farmer of the mines royal in the
county of Cardigan, had letters patent, 13th of Charles I., to erect a
mint for coinage of such silver as was raised from the said mines royal
in Wales; but the castle and houses for the mint were destroyed by the
civil war. On the 6th of March, 1646, on his petition to this effect,
the smelting house, near the refining mills, was appropriated by
Parliament to this purpose, till the castle should be refitted.
But what formerly rendered this town more considerable, were the rich
lead mines in its vicinity. These mines are said to have yielded near a
hundred ounces of silver from a ton of lead, and to have produced a
profit of two thousand pounds a month. Sir Hugh Middleton here made the
vast fortune, which he afterwards expended on the New River, constructed
for the purpose of supplying the northern side of London with water. But
Thomas Bushell raised these mines to their greatest height: an indenture
was granted to him by King Charles I. for the coining of silver pieces,
to be stamped with ostrich feathers on both sides, for the benefit of
paying his workmen. This gentleman was afterwards appointed governor of
Lundy Isle. The most considerable lead mine was that of
Bwlch-yr-Eskir-his, discovered in the year 1690. The ore was here so
near the surface, that the moss and grass in some places scarcely covered
it. {97}
Close to the site of the old castle, Mr. Uvedale Price, of Foxley, in
Herefordshire, has erected a fantastic house in the castellated form,
intended merely as a summer residence.
Aberystwith has of late years been in all respects greatly improved; for
being the principal place of summer resort for bathing and pleasure from
North Wales and the adjacent English counties, every inducement has been
held forth that could attract company from its new competitors: the roads
are now good, and the inns and accommodations excellent. The population
consists of 2,397 persons.
The bathing is well conducted, and although the beach, as at most of our
watering places, is formed of pebbles, still there are generally good
sands to bathe on at all hours of the tide. During the season,
assemblies are held here as at Brighton, Ramsgate, and other English
sea-bathing places. Formerly, the town-hall likewise served as a
theatre, but another building has now been erected for that purpose.
Notwithstanding Aberystwith is prevented by the sand bar at the entrance
from receiving vessels of large tonnage, still its trade is considerable
and increasing, carried on by vessels from 250 tons burthen down to 18.
Mr. Meyrick’s remarks with respect to this port are perfectly correct.
“Were two piers made on those ridges of the rock called the Wey, which
afford the strongest foundations, the harbour would be handsome,
capacious, and convenient. Besides, by cutting a passage across the road
to the north of the town, and carrying it along the marsh into the sea,
for the Rhyddol, just at the angle it makes when it takes a south-west
course, an excellent back-water would be at hand, and would clear away
any bar that might be formed at the mouth of the harbour, and keep it
free from mud.”
It has two markets in the week; Monday for butter, &c., and Saturday for
meat, besides which, it is generally well supplied with fish, with which
it furnishes the interior of the country as far as Shrewsbury and
Worcester. The views from the castle and cliffs, not only over Cardigan
Bay, but over the cloud-capped summits of Cader Idris and Snowdon, are
extensive and sublime.
We determined to pursue the banks of the meandering Rhyddol, in
preference to the turnpike road, in our way to Havod.
This valley comprehends every thing that constitutes the beautiful; it is
inclosed by high mountains on each side, vegetating to their summits;
indeed, all the tints of verdure and diversity of foliage here introduce
themselves in one view; the Rhyddol struggling with the huge masses of
rock,—its never-ceasing, tumultuous motion,—its sparkling foam;—in fine,
every thing that can be imagined, by the most enthusiastic admirer of
nature, is blended in this short excursion:—
—“_is not this vale_
More free from peril than the envious courts?
Here feel we but the penalty of Adam,
The season’s difference, as the icy fang
And churlish chiding of the winter’s wind.”