We were up early this morning but it rained so fast we could not leave
the house till ten. I employed the interval in copying a map of the
Island on a large scale which is to be filled up as we proceed.
Accompanied by our new acquaintance we first visited Llanedwyn {17}
church where he officiates for the first time next Sunday. The church
yard and a great part of the parish has lately been enclosed by Lord
Uxbridge’s park walls and we were not a little surprized to find a (fol.
33_a_) porter’s lodge and a locked gate on the church road.
In the church yard is a flat stone with a Latin inscription to Rowlands
the antiquarian who held this living with Llanidan for many years. We
found by the date that he died in one thousand seven hundred and
twenty-seven.
What is very extraordinary for the author of such a book as _Mona
Antiqua_ we were told he was never above once out of the Island in his
life.
[Picture: No. 8. Carnedd in Lord Uxbridge’s Park, North Side]
Llanedwyn church is said by this gentleman to have been originally
founded by Edwen neice or daughter to king Edwin anno domini six hundred
and four though none of the present building we presume can boast of that
antiquity it being formed after the present model of Welsh churches. Yet
it retains its bason for holy water, its modern crosses, and a curious
inscription cut on the back of one of the pews, the letters running in a
circle with I. H. S. in the centre. I believe the inscription is Welsh:
the character (fol. 38) apparently that made use of in the time of Henry
the seventh. From hence we pursued our walk across the park towards Lord
Uxbridge’s house stopping in the way to examine a very large Carnedd {18}
or artificial hillock formed of loose stones but now overgrown with turf
and trees. This remain is one of the most considerable in the island
measuring one hundred and thirty-four paces in circumference. On walking
round it we observed a square opening on the south side which I entered
on my hands and knees and found it about ten feet long, four wide and
three high, the sides formed of three large flat stones placed edgeways
in the ground supporting the roof which consists of only two. I have
endeavoured to be as exact as I could in my drawings of this cistfaen
(which without doubt it was) and employed as the grave of some
considerable personage (folio 38_a_) in ancient times though Mr. Rowlands
appropriates the carnedd to a very different use and connects it with the
religion of the Druids. In his time three skeletons were discovered in
digging near the surface of the carnedd which gave him an idea of its
being a place of sacrifice but he had never an opportunity of viewing the
interior (the opening having been discovered within these few years) he
was unable to speak with certainty on the subject. This was certainly
the mode of sepulture among the Britons, and northern invaders before the
introduction of Christianity, and many of the open parts of England
especially Wiltshire & Dorsetshire abound in them, there they are
denomenated barrows, in Derbyshire & the northern counties they are
called lows. The term carnedd implies a heap of stones.
[Picture: No. 9. South Side and Entrance of the Carnedd]
[Picture: No. 10. Ground Plan of the Cisfaen within the Carnedd]
[Picture: No. 11. Interior of the Cisfaen, the Right-hand Side on
Entering]
[Picture: No. 12. Cromlech in Lord Uxbridge’s Park]
From hence we proceeded to look at a very large cromlech {20} or
Druidical altar preserved in the Park near his lordship’s stables. In
our way there we passed in front of the house a vast pile of building
designed by Wyatt and recently fitted up with every elegance of modern
refinement but as the family (fol. 41) were at home we could not visit
the interiour. However I made a drawing of the cromlech which is nearly
four yards long and above a yard thick, the supporters at the north end
nearly five feet high a smaller stone lying close to the other extremity
measuring three feet long and two and a half thick has also its small
supporters and is to all appearance intended as a separate cromlech. A
large tree spreading its branches over the moss grown stone and the
venerable wood sheltering the park are still very impressive and give
some idea of the enthusiasm these objects were capable of inspiring when
connected with superstition. The stables, not far distant from the spot
are built in a style of gothic architecture resembling an extensive
monastery, the pampered and lazy steeds within their stalls may be
considered as no inapt emblem of the former (fol. 41_a_) inhabitants of
such kind of edifices. From hence we walked to a modern villa situated
in another part of the grounds called Fort Cæsar built by Colonel Peacock
about 20 years since, but on Lord Uxbridge’s purchasing the Colonel’s
estate it was enclosed within that park, as is also a more ancient
mansion called Plâs Llanedwyn besides many farm houses and cottages. The
park wall has not long since been erected, it is built of stone ten feet
high and extends nearly four miles in length.
[Picture: No. 5]
Returning to Llanedwyn church we proceeded in company with Mr. Hughes of
Plâs Goch towards Bryn Gwiderin. In our way thither he engaged a young
man well acquainted with the country to conduct us to those places we had
marked out in our list for the day. Bryn Gwiderin {22a} is a natural
ledge of rock resembling what we before noticed at Plâs Goch running for
upwards of two miles towards Bryn Shenkin {22b} the (fol. 43) Beaumaris
road being formed on the summit. The Romans are supposed to have fixed
upon this spot as their principal station in the Island though the shape
of the fortress {23} differs from their usual form being a semicircle
ninety yards across defended by a triple trench to the southward and to
the north by the natural barrier above mentioned. I was anxious to see
whether the walls had been constructed with cement as in the more
finished works of the Romans but could gain no information on the subject
having nothing with us to clear away the rubbish from the surface. On
asking the guide whether they had ever discovered any copper coins, he
said oh yes he had some in his possession and off he ran like a dart to
his cottage nearly half a mile distant. We waited his return hoping at
length our wishes would be gratified in this respect when lo! instead of
coins bearing the effigies of the Cæsars he produced a handful of (fol.
43_a_) rough copper ore, on explaining to him what we wanted saying they
resembled a piece of money he said he had one of that kind also of silver
which he picked up a short time since in a field near home whither he
returned with equal alacrity to procure it and shortly made his
appearance with a shilling of Elizabeth’s!!! So much for coins. There
seems to be a fatality against my collecting any. In my excursion along
the Roman Wall I heard of many but could obtain none. Those I procured
at Caerwent are unfortunately lost many have certainly been dug up in
these parts but either lost or disposed of. We continued our progress
from Bryn Gwyderin in a northerly direction towards Mafyrian the distance
of two miles over heaths & bogs. At this place we expected to meet with
some Druidical remains noticed by Mr. Rowlands but they have all been
cleared (fol. 45) away since his time. At Bodlew we experienced a
similar disappointment. We therefore proceeded towards Llanddeiniol
church in expectation of seeing some painted glass said to have been
presented by the notorious Judge Jeffries whose family formerly resided
here but nothing of the kind was to be seen or indeed anything else for
never was I in so dark or dismal a place. But in this parish we were
fully recompensed for all our former disappointments by the sight of the
Carnedd at Bryn Celli.
[Picture: Bryn Celli Ddu Cromlech]
Accompanied by a young farmer who procured a lanthorn for the purpose we
walked nearly a mile to the south east of the church to the spot where in
Mr. Rowlands’ time there were two carnedds remaining having two rude
stone pillars placed between them but these stones have been employed for
the purpose of building a wall near this place as well as a great part
(fol. 45_a_) of the western carnedd which is nearly destroyed for the
same purpose about twenty years ago when the labourers when digging
towards the center discovered a flat pan about ten inches overturned
bottom upwards and under it a wedge of gold as they pretend the size of
the heater of an iron with a piece of wire passing through the smaller
end of it. The father of the young man who was with us happened to be
one of the workmen employed at the time, but as what they found was
immediately taken by Colonel Peacock the proprietor of the ground the man
could give no further account of the circumstance. I should imagine that
what they called the wedge of gold was no other than one of the brazen
celts or sacrificial instruments used in former times which have been
discovered in great numbers in Cornwall and (fol. 46) other parts of the
kingdom. Whilst a farmer was removing some of the stones from the north
east side of the larger carnedd to employ them in his repairs he came to
the mouth of a passage covered with a square stone similar to that at
Plâs Newydd, anxious to reap the fruits of his discovery he procured a
light and crept forward on his hands and knees along the dreary vault,
when lo! in a chamber at the further end a figure in white seemed to
forbid his approach. The poor man had scarcely power sufficient to crawl
backwards out of this den of spirits as he imagined however in the course
of a few days instigated by the hopes of riches and the presence of many
assistants he made his second _entré_ into the cavern and finding the
white gentleman did not offer to stir he boldly went (fol. 46_a_) forward
and discovered the object of his apprehensions was no other than a stone
pillar about six feet in height standing in the centre of the chamber.
His former consternation could now only be exceeded by his eagerness to
see what was contained beneath the stone which he shortly overturned but
treasure there was none, some large human bones lying near the pillar
sufficiently testifying the purpose for which the structure was intended.
This is the substance of the account we received from the young man whose
father was one of Colonel Peacock’s labourers and on the premises at the
time of the discovery. The superstition of the common people still
suppose this to be the habitation of spirits.
Our two conductors seeming rather to compliment each other about
precedence I took the lanthorn and crawling for about twelve feet along
(fol. 47) a narrow passage got into a more capacious chamber, my
companions followed close at my heels and we assembled to the number of
six in this singular sepulchre. The passage by which we entered is about
three feet high and a little more in breadth and was formed like that we
noticed at Plâs Newydd with flat stones stuck endways and covered with
others of still greater magnitude laid across. I have still my doubts
that if the former was further explored it might terminate in a similar
vault to what we are now speaking of. The height of the chamber is nine
feet, its form nearly triangular some of the sides being about three
yards long and four or five feet high. The intermediate space up to the
roof is filled with stones placed one above the other in the manner they
build walls but without any kind of cement. Two prodigious flat stones
covered the whole one about three yards in length and two in breadth
(fol. 47_a_) the other not quite so large. These are of a gritty
substance not like any stone found in the vicinity. The pillar still
lying in the cavern is a kind of freestone and seems to have been rounded
by the tool. On examining more minutely this singular structure we were
not a little annoyed by a tribe of immense spiders who have reigned here
unmolested for ages the cones containing their young ones suspended from
different parts of the roof nearly as large as those of silk worms.
I suppose we were in this mansion of the dead half an hour and on
regaining the open air found the evening shut in, and the gloom still
heightened by a heavy rain which accompanied us the whole way to Moel-don
where we arrived very wet to a late dinner and went early to bed.
(Fol. 48) SATURDAY, DECR. 4
We were up as soon as it was light this morning and having taken leave of
our new acquaintance who seems destined to vegetate on sixty pounds per
annum with the charge of three churches and a wife into the bargain, we
proceeded along the shore of the Menai to Llanidan. In our way observed
more particularly Pant y scraffie the meadow where the Romans are
supposed to have effected their landing. Mr. Rowland with some
probability derives y scraffie from the Latin word scaphae a kind of flat
boats or skiffs best adapted for a shallow coast. We stopped a few
minutes at Llanidan to look at the inside of the church. Mr. Williams
senior, who died last week at Bath is expected to be interred here. Like
Sir Benjamin Hamet and Mr. Allen though sprung from a mean origin he
(fol. 48_a_) acquired a princely fortune having been first agent and then
afterwards partner in that lucrative concern the Parys mine. I took a
drawing of Llanidan church and afterwards copied an inscription in the
church yard bearing date 1640 the character differs from most others of
the same period. The interior of the building has little to attract
notice but Russell copied the following inscription to a Mr. Fitz Gerald
who appears to have been resident at the old mansion at Bodowyr in the
beginning of the last century. Some arms of a prior date let into the
wall near the communion table are I believe the same as those placed over
the entrance door of the house. “Here lyeth Price Fitz Gerald of Bodowir
Gent. son of Edmund Fitz Gerald Gent. and Mary Price who died April xii
MDCCIX being lineally descended from Gerard Oge of Rathrown who was (fol.
51) descended from Mac Thomas a younger son of the Earl of Kildare in
Ireland aet xxxiv. iv. M 8 R I P.” The lad who had been our conductor
yesterday still accompanied us and I confess I was not a little pleased
with his disinterested attention. We took nearly the same route we had
done before from Bryn Shenkin to Blochti in order to see a cromlech {28}
called Maen Llhwyd, not having been able to procure any intelligence
respecting it when here the other day.
[Picture: Llanidan Church]
The cap stone and its three supporters remain still on the spot but have
long since been thrown prostrate on the ground. If I remember right Mr.
Rowlands speaks of it as a demolished cromlech in his time. The cap
stone is nearly circular measuring about two yards and a half in diameter
and a yard in thickness. The two supporters lying near it are about two
yards each in length, the third we could not take the dimensions of (fol.
51_a_) because the cap stone had fallen over it.
[Picture: No. 16. Inscriptions at Llanidan]
From Maen Llhwyd we took the direction to Bodowyr which gave us an
opportunity of seeing Tre Fwry the field in which the Roman coins were
dug up. Four or five circular buildings may here be traced close to the
brook Briant.
[Picture: No. 17. Maen Llhwyd, a demolished Cromlech near Blochty]
I believe that most of the stones that form the wall round the field were
taken from this spot. Having taken a rough sketch of the place we
proceeded on to Bodowyr. In a stubble field rather to the westward of
the house we noticed some foundations of buildings covering about an acre
of ground. The country people have a tradition that a large town once
stood here but so many of the stones have been removed to clear the
ground it is impossible to form any idea respecting it.
Proceeding across the fields for three {30a} miles to the north west we
came to a farm house called Fron Dûg {30b} where we had been directed to
enquire for a stone (fol. 54) with an inscription now employed as a
gatepost on the premises. We soon found the spot and we endeavoured to
trace the rude characters with as much care as possible. I imagine the
stone was intended for a boundary and that the VI and the letters
underneath refer to some measurement of property. The other part I think
is more intelligible and thus read Mad. Filius Lluricini erexit hunc
lapidem.
[Picture: No. 18. Stone near Frondûg, 5 ft. in height]
[Picture: No. 19. Llancadwaladr Church]
[Picture: No. 21. Ancient Characters over the Doorway at Llancadwaladr
Church]
The farmer living on the spot gave a curious account of the stone having
once been taken away to be employed in building a limekiln by a person in
the neighbourhood but he added with great earnestness that nothing
succeeded with him till he had again restored it to its place. It now
forms a gate post though the gate is hung on the opposite side of the
way. We here separated from the good natured lad who had attended us so
many miles and finding him superior to any pecuniary recompence I gave
(fol. 54_a_) him a silk handkerchief from my neck which he says he shall
keep as long as he lives. Before he left us he made interest at a farm
house for horses to carry us over Malltreath {32a} a swampy flat covered
by the sea at high tides. However we passed without difficulty pushing
straight forwards towards a village church called Treasdreath {32b} and
passed a large stone called Maen hîr. From hence leaving Mr. Meyrick’s
house a large mansion to the left we made the best of our way to
Llancadwaladr church about two miles distant. We had noted down this
place from Mr. Rowlands on account of an ancient inscription placed there
by Cadwalader last king of the Britons to commemorate Catamanus or
Catwallon his grandfather. The characters are very deeply cut on a stone
above four feet long forming the lintern to the doorway of the church and
is read Catamanus Rex sapientissimus opinatissimus omnium (fol. 58)
regum. This Cadfan or Catamanus according to Mr. Rowlands was chosen
King of the Britons anno six hundred and thirteen and is said to have
been buried in the Isle of Bardsey but in Sir John Wynne’s pedigree we
find an account of a Cadwallader of a much later date he being brother of
Owen Gwynnedd stiled king of Wales. Whether this was the person who
founded the church or whether it was built as Mr. Rowlands says prior to
that period the Welsh historians must determine. I only hint this
because I found nothing in the structure of the building to corroborate
so remote an antiquity as the chief window to the east appears to be
about the time of Henry the seventh or eighth and on it is some painted
glass in the characters of that age (fol. 58_a_). A chapel attached to
the north side of the church was built anno sixteen hundred sixty six by
dame Owen as we learnt by the following inscription over the doorway.
This chapel was built by Anne Owen widdowe, daughter and inheretrix of
Richard Williams of Llasdûlas {34} Esqre according to the direction of
her deare husband Hugh Owen Esqre sixteen hundred sixty one. Under some
arms painted on the glass of the chapel was, appointed by her deare
husband Hugh Owen sonne and heir of Will Owen of Bodowen Esqre and
erected by his dear wife Anne.
[Picture: No. 20. Doorway at Llancadwaladr Church with an Inscription to
the Memory of Hugh Owen, Esq.]
Under a monument erected against the east wall of the church where a
knight in armour and a lady are kneeling before an altar are the
following curious lines containing more of loyalty than poesy (fol. 59)—
To the memory of Hugh Owen Esqre of Bodowen who died the twenty first
of October sixteen hundred fifty nine.
Religion, learning, friends, poor have lost
A noble patron who maintained them at his cost
His country’s patriot most firme to loyalty
And for being loyal suffer’d infinitely
With foes would not cologue nor his prince betray
But livde his faithful subject every day.
This monument was made by Anne his beloved wife the daughter and
inheritrix of Richard Williams of Llasdûlas Esqre in memory of her
deare husband sixteen hundred sixty.
Mr. Meyricke the owner of Bodowen is first repairing his family chapel on
the opposite side. The original edifice as appears by a stone lying in
the church was built by Richard Meyricke Esqre anno sixteen hundred forty
(fol. 59_a_) and the vault underneath by his great grandson Owen Meyricke
Esqre seventeen hundred thirty. The evening was closing in fast before
we had finished our observations at Llancadwaladr.
A dreary walk of two miles over the sands to Aberffraw was rendered still
more disagreeable by an incessant and heavy rain and we had no small
degree of anxiety the whole of our walk lest we should be still more
unfortunate in not gaining admittance at the public house as we
understood that a number of Westleans with Mr. Charles at their head were
to have a meeting the following day in the village. However on our
arrival at the house we found a good welcome and much better quarters
than we had reason to expect. After a comfortable supper of boiled
rabbit we retired to rest.
(fol. 61) SUNDAY, DECR. 5
[Picture: No. 22. Cromlech at Henblas]
[Picture: No. 23. Cerigainwyn Church]
This morning after breakfast the weather being tolerably fair we walked
to Henblâs in the parish of Llangristiolus in expectation of seeing a
cromlech mentioned in our list. In our way thither we skirted a lake
{36a} about two miles in circumference and noticed large flocks of wild
ducks and other acquatic birds near the shore but on our approach they
swam immediately to the middle of the water. About a mile and a half
beyond we passed a large house called Trefyla {36b} belonging to Mr.
Evans and at Henblâs another the property of his sister but at present
only tenanted by a gardener who accompanied us over the fields to the
object we came in search of. We here found three immense stones two of
them above fifteen feet high and nearly the same in width standing
upright in the ground, another of a (fol. 61_a_) flatter form leant
against them. I cannot imagine there is anything artificial in the
arrangements of these ponderous bodies but that their position is the one
they were placed in by the hand of nature. Whether they ever were or
were not employed by the Druids I do not pretend to determine. And here
we may observe the word cromlech is applied by the Welsh indiscriminately
to stones either natural or artificial if they are only found inclining
in such a direction that there is a hollow underneath. The largest stone
in the pass of Llanberis which not many years ago rolled from the heights
above obtains the name of cromlech vawr and the same may be observed in
many other instances. On returning from this spot the gardener who
seemed to be an intelligent man pointed to a rising ground to the
southward about two miles off which he said was called (fol. 62) Ester
{37} mon eglwr where are still to be traced the foundations of an ancient
fortress and tradition says a lofty watch tower once stood on this
eminence commanding the circumference of the Island. From hence a
causeway ran across the low ground towards a large carnedd wherein were
discovered many human bones. Not far from hence he himself picked up a
piece of silver coin which he had given to a lady in the neighbourhood.
As we had received intelligence of some old characters cut in the wall of
Cerigainwyn {38} Church we walked thither and were glad to find something
better worthy of notice than the cromlech we had quitted for here are
still visible some large Saxon characters cut very deep in the stone of
the clochti or belfry. In order to transcribe them more perfectly I
procured a ladder and mounted aloft but this (fol. 62_a_) enterprize was
attended with no small difficulty for being obliged to employ both hands
while sketching and the ladder lying very slanting I could only depend
upon the toes of my boots for support against the wall. Whilst thus
situated there came on a violent storm of sleet and hail which so
benumbed my hands I hurried the business more than I otherwise should
have done but still I think I have the drawing pretty exact. These rude
Saxon characters appear to be coeval with the building and probably were
designed to perpetuate the name of its founder and the date of the
foundation but when the original edifice grew to decay they were taken
out of their original order and placed just as they happened to come into
use in the building the clochti so that many of the letters are lost or
inverted. I think I am authorized to make this conjecture by the (fol.
69) present appearance of the U and the S which are evidently reversed.
Other letters are also wanting to make good the inscription. The font
within the church is without doubt equally ancient as it retains the
Runic lines and ornaments which were used among the northern nations of
the sixth and seventh century. Of this I made three drawings. The clerk
a surly Jewish looking fellow seemed at first inclined to be very
impudent, but I did not neglect to fee him for the same reason the Angel
did the Miser in Parnell’s beautiful poem of the Hermit namely to make
him more civil and attentive to other travellers should curiosity ever
lead them to this spot. The clouds now gathering round us and everything
seeming to portend bad weather we made the best of our way to Aberffraw
having altogether walked twelve miles.
[Picture: No. 24. Clochty at Caregainwin Church]
[Picture: No. 25. South Side of the Clocty at Caregainwen Church]
[Picture: No. 26. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church]
[Picture: No. 27. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church]
[Picture: No. 28. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church]
(fol. 69_a_) MONDAY, DECR. 6
[Picture: No. 29. [Arch in Aberffraw Church.]]
We found there was so much to be seen in the neighbourhood of Aberffraw
that we determined on prolonging our stay for another day at our present
station. About nine attended by the same person who went with us
yesterday we walked to the parish church which outwardly resembles other
Welsh buildings of the kind but on entering we observed a neat turned
Saxon arch to the west end underneath the clochti an evident token that
this part of the building was of a more ancient date and most likely
erected during the times the Saxons held the Island which was for above a
century. Aberffraw afterwards became the residence of the North Welsh
princes and we may suppose it was a place of the greatest consequence in
the Island though now it scarcely deserves the title of a village.
[Picture: No. 31. Interior of Llangwyfan Church]
(fol. 73) Not far from the church they point out a field where the
palace of Llewelyn stood but no traces remain the ground having been
cleared quite to the foundation. Proceeding in a northwesterly direction
for a mile and a half we came to the little church of Llangwyfan. This
is erected on a rocky peninsula jutting out into the sea and is an Island
at high water so that not unfrequently the congregation are interrupted
in their devotion by the rapid approach of the waves. From its exposed
situation to the weather and from the spray of the sea beating against
its walls the stones in parts are fretted like a honeycomb which gives it
a most venerable appearance though from the shape of the windows at the
east end I should not suppose it was above four centuries standing.
Whilst I was sketching the font and part of the interior Russell copied a
curious (fol. 73_a_) epitaph to the memory of Mr. Woode written about the
year sixteen hundred two an age remarkable for its false wit and punning
indeed must have been very prevalent to have found its way to so remote a
quarter as this. Inscribed on a brass plate let into a stone slab is the
following epitaph:
Felix ter felix marmor quia nobile lignum
Quo caret infelix insula marmor habes
Owen et patriae vivens fuit utile lignum
Et lignum vitae post sua fata Deo
Filius ista meo posui monumenta parenti
Sic precor et tecum nomen [et] Owen idem
In obitum Oweni Woode armigeri qui
Obiit 6 die April A° Dni 1602 Ætat 70.
[Picture: No. 32]
(fol. 76) In our way back we collected some beautiful specimens of sea
weed and a few shells and passing by a large mansion {44a} house the
former habitation of this Mr. Woode but now rented of Mr. Meyricke by a
farmer we walked a mile farther to Mynnedd {44b} Cnwc having understood
there was a cromlech to be seen there.
[Picture: No. 33. Remains of a Carnedd at Mynydd-y-Cnwc]
Mŷnnedd Cnwc is a promontory running two or three hundred yards into the
sea and forming the northern boundary of a small bay called Port Tre
Castel to the south of which on a semicircular rock about fifty yards
over jutting into the bay we observed a deep trench and mound cut towards
the land side and a square earth work of smaller dimensions a little
beyond this doubtless was the work of invaders on their first landing.
Instead of a cromlech at Mŷnnedd Cnwc we found the vestiges of a large
carnedd many of the flat stones of the cist faen or chamber are still
remaining but the small ones have been almost all removed to build a wall
close at hand. (fol. 77_a_) On another fork of the peninsula about an
hundred yards distant we observed the traces of another carnedd of much
smaller dimensions. From the nature of their situation, the bay, the
earth work &c. it is not improbable to suppose that an engagement here
took place with the natives wherein some principal officers were slain
and interred on the spot. A natural cavern in the rock penetrates for
some distance in the peninsula but it being high tide we could not
satisfy our curiosity in examining it. The country people have a strange
idea of spirits haunting these carnedds and frequently see lights (Ignis
fatuus) hovering round the point. They moreover report that an iron boot
was dug up not long ago full of money but on further enquiry the money
vanished and so did the boot too. By the description of a man who had
seen it I believe it was no other than a gambado belonging to Mr. Woode
or some of his descendants.
[Picture: No. 34. Caer Cromlech in the Parish of Llanfaelog]
(fol. 80) Hence continuing our walk to the northward we passed through
the parish of Llanfaelog and about half a mile beyond the church came to
a very perfect cromlech. {46} The cap stone is rather of an oblong shape
and measured sixteen feet long, six wide, and three thick. It only
rested upon three supporters each about three feet high although there
were four placed in the ground. Near the cromlech were lying two large
stones, the one seventeen feet long and three thick. Having made two
drawings on the spot we were invited by a country woman to take some
refreshment at her house, and whilst she went forward to prepare for our
reception we walked about half a mile further towards the river Crighill
{47a} to see another cromlech. {47b} This stood on low ground quite in a
swamp the cap stone like that at Maen Llhwyd has been thrown down and its
supporters lie near it. Also many other stones from three to five feet
long to the number of thirty lie (fol. 80_a_) scattered in all directions
around it. Having hastily sketched this remain we followed the direction
of a person who persuaded us there were some very ancient letters on a
stone placed in a wall about an hundred yards distant. Above a quarter
of an hour was employed to no purpose in the search. At length assisted
by some men who came from a neighbouring field whose zeal in the business
was augmented by the promise of a shilling we discovered the valuable
antique which had been employed as a land mark and traced the letters o.
w. one thousand six hundred and sixty four very legibly on the surface.
[Picture: No. 36. Demolished Cromlech near the River Crighyll]
How many hundreds would have laughed at the distress of the young
antiquarians on this occasion but as the more learned of that venerable
society are continually exposed to similar or greater mistakes we must
find shelter from the shafts of ridicule under the shade of (fol. 82)
their protecting wings. At the farm house we found some white bread and
cheese and butter milk placed on a clean cloth waiting our arrival and
returning many thanks to our kind entertainer who was as pretty as she
was obliging we took our leave and proceeded towards a barn in the
neighbourhood where with the assistance of a lanthorn I traced the
characters NALIS deeply cut in a stone now serving as the lintern to a
small window but said to have been taken from a field near the spot. I
think these characters are Roman as the style of the L cut obliquely much
resembles what I have noticed on some inscriptions in the north of
England made a short time before the Romans quitted the island. Returned
to Aberffraw across a large warren apparently well stocked with rabbits.
They are sold in these parts for fourpence apiece, fowls are also equally
cheap, so that with the assistance of fish the inhabitants can fare very
luxuriantly without butcher’s meat. A farmer overtook (fol. 82_a_) and
accompanied us to Aberffraw. In the course of conversation he said it
was this day seventeen years being the Carnarvon fair on which the
passage boat was lost and eighty people perished in the Menai most of
whom were inhabitants of the island by which sad catastrophy nearly every
family had to lament the loss of some relative.
In the evening we received a visit from Mr. Rowlands curate of Aberffraw,
on enquiring of him what was become of the various coins which had been
dug up in these parts of the island he said that most of them had been
taken to Mr. Meyricke who he was sure would be very happy in shewing them
to us, but we were so apprehensive of being detained by the weather at
this time of the year that we could not venture to spend the following
day at Aberffraw though the civility and attention we experienced from
our hostess would have been a strong inducement at a more favourable
season.
(fol. 83) TUESDAY, DECR. 7
Having paid a very reasonable bill at Aberffraw we quitted it this
morning about ten and pursued the same track we had done yesterday for
about three miles when crossing the Crighyll and traversing a bleak heath
rendered still more unpleasant by heavy storms of wind and rain we
arrived at Llanfihangle yn nhewlyn {49} expecting to find some ancient
remains in this parish. We only saw some large loose stones upon the
summit of the rocks which seem to have little claim to the interference
of the Druids to place them in their present position. On enquiring at a
cottage near this spot whether there were any carnedds or chromlechs to
be seen we exposed ourselves to the ridicule of two old women who enjoyed
a hearty laugh at our walking in the rain to hunt after stones.
[Picture: No. 37. Praesaddfed Cromleche]
[Picture: No. 39. Praesaddfed Cromleche]
Skirting two large pools of water we pursued our way to Bodedern situated
on the turnpike road about eight miles from Holyhead. This place did not
prepossess us much in its favour as it seemed to promise but sorry
accommodations (fol. 83_a_). However we were obliged to put up with them
unless we made up our minds to reach Holyhead which would have thrown us
nearly a day backward in our march. Having ordered the best the house
could afford for dinner we walked nearly a mile along the turnpike road
in the direction of Gwindy {50a} when turning off into a field to the
left we approached one of the finest and most finished cromlechs {50b} we
have yet seen in the island the cap stone measuring four yards and a half
long four yards wide and two yards thick {50c} its three supporters each
about a yard and a half high. Indeed there is a fourth nearly of the
same height but it does not touch the stone above. Under this cromlech
we were informed a whole family who had been ejected from their
habitation sought shelter during the last winter. There was another
cromlech close at hand but the cap stone had been forced down and rests
in a slanting direction against the supporters the top stone of this
measured three yards long and two yards and (fol. 87) a half wide and its
supporters nearly two yards high. An old mansion near the spot was we
understand the residence of Miss Buckley the lady who married King master
of the ceremonies at Bath. The premises seem to be very much out of
repair having been untenanted for some time. Returned about four to our
homely dinner of bacon and greens. In the evening after retracing my
sketches I took a copy of a plan that was in the room of the intended
bridge over the Menai. This if it ever is put into execution will be a
stupendous work as it will be nearly half a mile long and built pretty
strong to resist the tides. On the twenty-ninth of April 1785 a meeting
was first held for the purpose of consulting about it at St. Alban’s
tavern when the following resolutions passed: first, that the erecting a
carriage bridge over the streights of the Menai will be of great public
utility—second—that it appears from the reports and concurrent opinions
of several able engineers that the erecting a timber bridge upon piles
with three swivel bridges will not be detrimental (fol. 87_a_) to the
navigation of the said streights and therefore we approve of a bridge
being erected on that plan, third, that we will support the application
made to parliament for an act for building a bridge across the said
streights agreeable to the above plan. N. Bailey, chairman. Afterwards
follow the signature of the noblemen and gentlemen. Here we see the
first intention was to have constructed one of wood with three swivel
bridges for the convenience of vessels passing to and fro. Now according
to the present plan it is to be of stone with three center arches
sufficiently wide and high to permit a ship to pass with all her sails
set. God knows whether this plan will ever be brought to perfection but
in this mechanical age we can scarcely wonder at the projection of any
enterprize however vast or difficult. If we were not pleased with our
fare much less were we with our sleeping apartments at this place the
upper story was (fol. 89) without ceilings running clear up to the roof
being divided into stalls rather than chambers by deal boards wherein are
placed the different beds for the family and strangers. We slept in
separate beds it is true, but every word that was said, nor ought that
was done could pass unheard for all was as manifest to the ear at least
as though we had been in the same dormontory. I was unfortunately
situated, in having some snorers close to my bed head, and the deal not
being above half an inch thick I may literally say they were close at my
ear. Different kinds of music resounded from different parts of the
room. I bore all this harmonious combination of sounds with the
philosophy of a stoic till the clock struck three, when my next neighbour
played so violently on the double bass I lost all patience and began
knocking with equal violence on the partition between us. This not only
awoke him but every part of the house was soon in motion and the host got
up grumbling and swearing and called the people about him to go and (fol.
89_a_) see who it was who knocked at the door for they imagined it was
some traveller who wished to gain admittance. In the course of an hour
when the tumult was subsided I dropped asleep and was roused by our guide
whom I had ordered to call me at half past six.