WE left Capel Cerig early this morning on horseback with the design of
examining the Celtic remains in the Isle of Anglesea the Harper of the
inn accompanying us in the capacity of interpreter. After a ride of
fifteen miles along the vale of Nantffrancon by Lord Penrhyn’s quarries
we came to Moel-don ferry about eleven o’clock when returning our horses
by a boy (fol. 22_a_) (previously sent forward for the purpose from Capel
Cerig) we proceeded as pedestrians. Our passage across the Menai
savoured somewhat of quixottism for the ferry boat being on the other
side waiting for passengers we were unable to brook the delay so taking
possession of a fisherman’s skiff lying on the beach we rowed to the
Island pursuing nearly the same track as the Romans seventeen hundred
years ago under the command of Paulinus Suetonius which event is so
particularly described by Tacitus.
[Picture: No. 1. Plâs Goch, December 2]
[Picture: No. 2. Sketch]
On our landing we immediately made the necessary enquiries at a public
house for the route we were to pursue and found the places we had noted
down lay so wide asunder it would be impossible to comprehend them in the
course of the day. We accordingly determined on making that our sleeping
place and after a slight meal (fol. 24) took the road across the fields
to Llanidan. In our way passed an ancient mansion called Plâs Goch
apparently built in the time of Elizabeth. A little way beyond the house
is a natural barrier of rock rising abruptly above the level ground and
extending almost the whole way to Porthamel the distance of half a mile.
Near this place in a meadow the Romans are supposed to have formed their
ranks immediately on landing and the field to this day retains the name
of Pant y scraffie, or the place of the passage boats. At low tides the
channel is not above three or four feet deep so that it might easily have
been crossed by the cavalry in the manner described by the Historian and
the natural barrier before mentioned being so contiguous, it is not at
all improbable that it was the first post occupied by the Romans under
Paulinus Suetonius on their invasion of the island 1740 years ago.
“Igitur Monam insulam, incolis validam et receptaculum perfugarum adgredi
parat, navesque fabricatur plano alveo adversus breve litus (flat
bottomed boats to pass over the shallows) et incertum—sic pedes—(the
infantry thus passed over) equites vado secuti aut altiores inter undas
adnantes equis tramisere.” The cavalry followed the infantry, and by
fording and swimming over the deeper channels arrived at the opposite
side. Tac. Ann. lib. 14, c. 29. A few minutes’ walk brought us to
Llanidan church, which seems superior to (fol. 24_a_) the generality of
Welsh buildings of the kind having a double roof and two bells in the
clochti or belfry. A large irregular built mansion {11a} belonging to
Mr. Williams who has acquired such immense property in the Pary’s Mines
stands close to it. From Llanidan we took the road to Bryn Shenkin half
a mile beyond. It is where Mr. Roland supposes the Britons formerly had
a town but now every trace is lost. Having procured a lad well
acquainted with the neighbourhood to conduct us by the nearest route we
quickly proceeded to Blochti half a mile further to the north-west. {11b}
At this place on a steep bank or rather ridge of rock (a quarry being now
worked beneath) we traced the foundations of four or five circular
buildings in a line close to each other each measuring nearly seven yards
in diameter. The same gentleman Mr. Rowland describes these as the
remains (fol. 26) of British habitations and his opinion seems to be
confirmed by some others of a similar form lying in a meadow called
Tan-ben-y-cefn not two hundred yards from the spot. These latter are
surrounded by two quadrangular earthworks the larger fifty yards by forty
containing four of these circular foundations the smaller (forty yards by
thirty) only two. It is not improbable that some of the Roman soldiers
might have occupied this spot after driving the inhabitants from their
possessions and that the earth works were thrown up by them by way of
security.
[Picture: No. 3. Druidical Stone standing near a Cottage called Bryn
Gwyn]
Crossing a barren marshy heath we saw the banks of a circular work
probably formed for the same purpose as that we before noticed at
Caerleon and I presume was a gymnasium or place of exercise (the country
people indeed have an idea it was a fortification as our guide informed
us it still goes by the name of the Castle. {13a} Whatever it was it
does not appear to have been at all connected with the Druidical worship
(fol. 26_a_) as Mr. Rowland supposes). The mound encompassing the area
may be from ten to fifteen feet in height the diameter of the circle
sixty yards. This measurement I believe is nearly accurate but part of
the circle having been destroyed in order to form a cart road makes it
more difficult to determine with certainty. On enquiring for some
ancient stones noticed by Mr. Roland at a place called Bryn Gwyn we were
directed to one standing near a cottage a quarter of a mile to the
north-west {13b} of the circus. It was of a lozenge form measuring above
three yards in height and two in width. We observed none of equal
dimensions near at hand but in a field at the back of the cottage there
were six each about a yard high placed three and three at equal distances
so as to form two exact triangles. From hence we proceeded along higher
ground to a farm house called (fol. 29) Tref Drw (Druids town) where some
of that venerable order are said to have resided. Now the name alone
records the circumstance to posterity as there is nothing remaining which
can be attributed to so remote a period. But not far distant we were
directed to a quadrangular earth work thrown up on marshy ground near the
brook (or as it is termed by the inhabitants the river Briant). {14a}
The outer mound {14b} measures fifty yards by forty and is about five
feet in height the trench 12 feet wide. Near the centre of the enclosure
we noticed the foundation of another of the circular huts above mentioned
and in an angle to the south east appearances of walls and buildings.
The course of the river must have altered considerably in aftertimes
otherwise the Romans would hardly have chosen so damp a spot even for a
temporary encampment. Still continuing in a northerly direction and
leaping over the river Briant we regained the higher ground near (fol.
29_a_) Bodower {15a} house which is at present occupied by a farmer who
rents the property of Lord Boston. Here we were gratified by the sight
of a very perfect chromlech standing in a field to the N.W. {15b} of the
house. The upper stone terminates in a ridge like the roof of a building
and measures seven feet four inches long three feet deep and four wide:
this is sustained by three supporters each three feet in height & nearly
the same in thickness. That cromlechs were not always used (if they were
at all) as altars for sacrifice I think may be demonstrated by the one
before us (as its Pyramidical form is by no means adapted to the purpose.
Indeed there is a tradition amongst the Welsh that this rude memorial was
erected over the grave of a British princess named Bronwen who flourished
in the year of the world 3105!!!!). My sketches being finished we
hastened on hoping to reach Mafyrian {16a} a mile and a half further
before the evening closed in but owing to a mistake of the guide’s we
lost our way and wandered about until it grew quite dark. Our
disappointment however was in some respect alleviated (fol. 32) by the
intelligence we received of some Roman coins in possession of a person at
Tre Evan {16b} a cottage we were to pass on our return. The moon having
by this time risen above the horizon we had a pleasant walk to Tre Evan
and entering the door made known the purport of our visit to the good
lady of the house who readily acknowledged she once had a great many bits
of brass money but thinking them of no value had given them her children
to play with. On our anxious request through our interpreter for a more
exact scruitiny in this important concern she began rumaging a little
cupboard and at length produced a counterfeit shilling of William the
third which she said was all that she retained of any money. This was a
mortifying termination to our suspence as we were in hope a few (fol.
32_a_) might have escaped the general dispertion. On enquiring how the
brass coins came into her possession she informed us that about six years
ago whilst a labourer was building a wall round a field near her house he
took materials for the purpose from the foundations of some circular
buildings (similar to those at Blochti) in one of which he discovered a
millstone containing in the cavity at the centre about two quarts of
brass coins. He also dug up a smaller millstone which she still retained
in her cottage. On producing it I found it of a close texture and tho’
only ten inches in diameter weighing twenty-six pounds. This probably
belonged to a hand mill as it seems to resemble those I noticed in my
excursion along the Roman wall. By the way the circumstance of finding
these coins hid in the foundation of a circular building sufficiently
proves that the Romans occupied the premises after the Britons had
quitted them. We returned at seven o’clock to Moel-don and supped in
company with a young clergyman just appointed to the curacy of the
parish. He proved an agreeable companion and gave us some interesting
(fol. 33) information regarding the new regulations at Oxford. On
retiring to our sleeping apartments we found them altogether the most
homely I ever occupied. However as we had made up our minds not to
quarrel with trivial difficulties we resigned ourselves to our lot
without murmuring and sleep soon veiled all in oblivion.
[Picture: No. 4. Sketch]
[Picture: No. 6. Side view of Bodowyr Cromlech]
[Picture: No. 7. End view of Bodowyr Cromlech]