| Received in | Received in | Total
| satisfactory | unsatisfactory | pounds
Creamery.| condition. | condition. | of
+-------+--------+-------+--------+ butter.
|Number.|Percent.|Number.|Percent.|
---------+-------+--------+-------+--------+--------
A | 218 | 98.2 | 4 | 1.8 | 822
B | 60 | 98.4 | 1 | 1.6 | 249
C | 73 | 89.0 | 9 | 11.0 | 290
D | 89 | 100.0 | ... | ... | 661
---------+-------+--------+-------+--------+--------
Total | 440 | 96.9 | 14 | 3.1 | 2,022
---------+-------+--------+-------+--------+--------
[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Two views of hand printer for 1-pound prints.]
Although many of these shipments were made during the heat of summer,
only 14 of the 454 shipments, or 3.1 per cent, were received in an
unsatisfactory condition. These very satisfactory results may be
attributed to the care exercised in the proper packing of butter in
suitable shipping containers and the pre-cooling or thorough hardening
of the butter at the creameries before shipment.
The experimental shipments to the State experiment stations were
satisfactory where the temperature and distance were not too great.
Butter which had softened much in transit from the creamery to the
bureau when later shipped to the experiment stations did not arrive in
as good condition as that in which the grain had not been previously
injured. In general, the shipments from Washington were successful when
forwarded as far north as Maine and as far west as Michigan and Indiana.
Shipments into the South were successful for shorter distances.
The results of these experimental shipments indicate that well-made
butter, thoroughly chilled before shipping, when packed in a suitable
container, may be marketed satisfactorily by parcel post when extreme
high temperatures are not encountered. Under ordinary conditions, where
the butter does not melt and a firm or semifirm condition is maintained,
the shipping of butter by parcel post generally may be successful. Even
though proper safeguards were taken, the shipments made during extremely
hot weather frequently arrived in an oily and unsatisfactory condition.
QUALITY AND CONDITION OF BUTTER
As parcel-post shipments of butter are likely to be subjected to
conditions, especially during the summer, which may cause deterioration
and injure the quality of the butter, it is highly desirable that every
possible precaution be taken before shipment. Particularly is this true
of farm-made butter, because conditions affecting its quality and
condition usually can not be controlled as easily on farms as in
creameries. However, farm-made butter should be marketed just as
satisfactorily as creamery-made butter when it is properly made and
prepared for shipment.[6]
[6] Those desiring information on making farm butter may secure, upon
request to the Division of Publications of the United States
Department of Agriculture, a copy of Farmers’ Bulletin No. 876,
entitled “Making Butter on the Farm.”
It is necessary to maintain proper conditions in the care of the milk
and cream and the making of butter if a marketable product is to be
produced. Too much importance can not be given to the maintaining of
cleanly conditions in the stable and in other places where the milk,
cream, or butter are produced or kept, for they absorb odors and spoil
very quickly. It is important, too, that these products be kept in a
cool place. High temperatures should always be avoided as heated cream
or butter produces a soft, oily condition in the finished product which
is undesirable. In manufacturing butter on the farm or in a factory the
buttermilk must be removed and washed out, and the proper amount of salt
must be incorporated evenly. Frequently parcel-post shipments of farm
butter are unsatisfactory to customers because proper methods were not
used in making it, and thereby the quality and condition of the butter
were injured before it was shipped. For the satisfaction of customers it
is important that a uniform quality of butter be produced.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.--Three stages of a parcel-post package of butter;
Wrapped, opened, showing print of butter.]
PREPARATION OF BUTTER FOR PARCEL-POST SHIPPING
The methods used in preparing butter for parcel-post shipping depend
largely upon the local conditions and the style of package used. To
insure delivery in the best possible condition, butter, after being
packed or printed and placed in cartons, should be chilled or hardened
thoroughly before it is shipped.
One of the most satisfactory ways of preparing butter for shipment is in
the form of regular 1-pound prints. The standard print measures 2¹⁄₂ by
2¹⁄₂ by 4⁵⁄₈ inches. A hand butter printer or mold should be used in
forming the prints. The printer shown in figure 1 is so made that it
can be taken apart readily and thoroughly cleaned. The print of butter
is easily removed from the mold by the false bottom. Another style is
made with the sides and ends hinged to the bottom and held in place by
hooks across the ends. After the butter is packed in the mold the sides
are unhooked, so that the butter can be removed from the printer.
One-pound hand printers similar to these styles may be secured from
dairy-supply companies or they may be made on the farm.
Each pound print should be neatly wrapped in regular butter parchment or
paper. A second thickness of such paper has been found to add materially
to the carrying possibility of the butter. Waxed paper may be used for
the second wrapping. As a further protection to the print, it should be
placed in heavy manila paraffined cartons, which may be obtained from
folding paper-box companies for about one-half cent each when unprinted
or at a slightly additional cost when printed as a stock carton or with
a special private brand.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.--Actual parcel-post shipment of 3 pounds of
butter wrapped in parchment paper, several thicknesses of newspaper,
corrugated paper-board carton, and finally an outside wrapper of heavy
wrapping paper.]
SHIPPING CONTAINERS FOR BUTTER
Corrugated fiber board shipping containers of various sizes may be
obtained for shipping 1-pound prints of butter. (See fig. 2.)
These boxes or containers practically insulate the butter and furnish
much protection against heat. Further protection may be obtained by
wrapping the container in stout wrapping paper. The whole should be tied
securely with a strong cord. In tying the twine, it should be drawn
tightly around the package so as to insure its proper carriage. Not
infrequently packages are broken open or otherwise damaged because they
are insecurely tied. The corrugated containers are also useful for
carrying shipments of butter put up in other styles.
Some persons ship butter by parcel post in improvised or “home-made”
containers. Clean, discarded, corrugated paper-board cartons are
obtained from the grocer or other merchant at small cost or frequently
without cost. It is possible to cut a piece of paper board in such shape
and size that when it is folded it will form a satisfactory carton. In
figure 3 is shown a piece of paper board that is cut so as to provide a
carton for shipping 3 pounds of butter that is wrapped in parchment
paper and several thicknesses of newspaper.
For this carton the paper board was so cut that it was 7¹⁄₂ inches wide
and 25 inches long with projections in the middle of the length which
were 4¹⁄₂ inches wide and extended 8¹⁄₂ inches on each side. This
provided a carton with dimensions, when folded, as shown in the
illustration, of 4¹⁄₂ by 6 by 7¹⁄₂ inches.
Butter shipped in an improvised container should be wrapped in parchment
paper and several thicknesses of newspaper and then should be securely
tied with string. The package should then be inclosed in the piece of
corrugated paper board with the projections of the paper board so folded
as to form a container. The container should then be tied with twine,
wrapped in heavy wrapping paper, and again tied securely with a strong
twine.
[Illustration: Fig. 4.--Cheese for parcel-post mailing. In some of the
important cheese-producing sections Swiss and other varieties of cheese
are frequently cut into suitable blocks for parcel-post shipping.]
If butter that is prepared for shipment in this manner is thoroughly
chilled before being mailed, it should carry safely even in warm weather
if it is not in transit over 24 to 36 hours.
EXAMPLES OF SUCCESSFUL MARKETING OF BUTTER BY PARCEL POST
A few of the many instances which have come to the attention of the
bureau will indicate with what success butter may be marketed by parcel
post.
A farmer’s wife who was making a good quality of butter was securing but
little more than half retail price a pound for it when a trial shipment
was made by parcel post to a consumer in a large city.[7] As the result
of this shipment, a demand was developed and customers obtained for the
entire product at an advance in price to the farmer’s wife and with a
considerable saving to the customers under the retail price of the best
creamery butter.
[7] Those desiring to obtain suggestions regarding parcel-post
business methods should make request to the United States Department
of Agriculture for a copy of Farmers’ Bulletin No. 922, entitled
“Parcel-Post Business Methods.”
A number of creameries have developed an extensive parcel-post business.
One which has a large output markets practically its entire product
direct to consumers or retail distributers, except in the flush of
production in spring and early summer. Another has developed a
substantial parcel-post trade by sending out a weekly price list.
Formerly this creamery used newspaper advertisements, but the manager
says that the quality of the butter is sufficient advertisement.
[Illustration: _“LONGHORN” (WEIGHT 12#)_
_“YOUNG AMERICA” (WEIGHT 8#)_
_“MIDGET” (WEIGHT 4#)_
_“FLAT” (WEIGHT 21#)_
_“BRICK” (WEIGHT 10#)_
Fig. 5.--Various styles of American Cheddar cheese suitable for
parcel-post shipping.]
ESSENTIALS FOR SUCCESS IN MARKETING BUTTER BY PARCEL POST
Successful parcel-post marketing of butter requires that extreme care be
taken to insure the delivery of a satisfactory product to the customers.
The following are a few of the important considerations to be observed
to market butter successfully by parcel post:
1. A uniformly high-quality product should be produced.
2. It should be properly packed in neat and attractive packages.
3. The shipping container used should amply protect the butter from
deterioration and damage.
4. The packages should bear the address of the sender and be properly
addressed to the customer.
5. The most expeditious mail service from the mailing office should be
used to insure the delivery of the butter in the best condition.
VARIETIES AND STYLES OF CHEESE
Most varieties of cheese, being firm and not so subject to damage by
high temperature as butter, may be shipped any distance by parcel post
without difficulty. (See fig. 4.)
The two important varieties of cheese produced on farms are cottage
cheese and American (full cream or whole milk) cheese. Cottage cheese is
soft and quickly perishable, therefore it is consumed while fresh. When
made rather dry and packed in moisture-proof packages it may be shipped
to points where delivery may be made within 24 to 36 hours. The first
and second zones are usually the practical limits of shipping cottage
cheese by parcel post.[8]
[8] Those desiring to obtain suggestions regarding parcel-post
business methods should make request to the United States Department
of Agriculture for a copy of Farmers’ Bulletin No. 922, entitled
“Parcel-Post Business Methods.”
[Illustration: Fig. 6.--Suitable container for shipping cheese.]
As American, Swiss, Brick, and several other of the firmer varieties of
cheese are ripened or cured and paraffined before they are marketed,
they can be more successfully shipped by parcel post then the soft
varieties such as cottage cheese. The more common styles or forms in
which the firmer varieties of cheese are marketed are prints, bricks,
and cylindrical shapes. The prints are made by cutting the larger styles
of cheeses into square “prints” weighing usually 1 pound each. Bricks
are made in molds of the desired size. Cylindrical-shaped cheeses, both
flat and long, are commonly known by various trade names such as
Midgets, Picnics, Young Americas, Long Horns, Daisies, and Flats. On
the Pacific coast a type of cheese called “Jack,” which closely
resembles the “Daisy” size, is marketed by parcel post. The usual weight
and shape of several styles of cheese, suitable for parcel-post
shipping, are shown in figure 5.
THE PACKAGING OF CHEESE FOR PARCEL-POST SHIPPING
General care should be exercised in the packaging of cheese for shipment
by parcel post. The surface of the cheese should be clean and, if
necessary, paraffined. As a protection to the cheese it should be
wrapped in several layers of paper, preferably with a waxed paper next
to the cheese. Corrugated or other fiber-board containers or wooden
boxes may be used as shipping containers. (See figure 6.) When rather
weak fiber board or wooden boxes are used they should be wrapped with
several sheets of tough paper.
ADDRESSING AND MAILING PARCEL-POST PACKAGES
Parcel-post packages, like other mail matter, should be carefully
addressed, including the street number of the person to receive the
parcel. In the upper left-hand corner the name and address of the sender
should be plainly written. It is preferable to place all addresses on
the package itself rather than on a tag tied to the package, for if the
tag becomes detached the addresses of both the sender and receiver are
lost. A rubber stamp for butter shipments bearing the statement:
“Butter--keep away from heating apparatus,” may be used to show that the
parcel is perishable and should be handled accordingly by the postal
employees. The letters in the word “Butter” should be one-half inch
high, the others one-fourth inch high.
In shipping by parcel post such a perishable product as butter, which is
affected by exposure to heat, inquiry should be made of the post office
regarding the daily mail service for parcel matter from that point to
the destination of the shipment. Arrangements should be made to post the
packages as near as practicable to the mail time in order to obtain
delivery in the quickest possible time.
[Illustration: Parcel Post Package Ready for Sending.]
Consideration should be given to the practicability of using night mail
service when available, as the temperature is usually cooler at night
than in the daytime. Night shipments to points within the first and
second zones ordinarily are delivered early the next day.
In a general way the foregoing precautions suggested for butter should
be observed in shipping cheese.
POSTAL REQUIREMENTS
Postal regulations provide that--
When it (butter) is so packed or wrapped as to prevent damage to other
mail, it will be accepted for local delivery either at the office of
mailing or on any rural route starting therefrom.
Butter will be accepted for mailing to all offices to which in the
ordinary course of mail it can be sent without spoiling when suitably
wrapped or inclosed or when packed in crates, boxes, or other suitable
containers to prevent the escape of anything from the package, and so
constructed as to properly protect the contents. More than 50 pounds
can not be sent beyond the third zone.
The firmer varieties of cheese, not being liable to cause damage in the
mails, need no special consideration when properly packaged. In some
cases it will be found that the express can be used to better advantage
than the parcel post.
The rates on parcel-post packages vary according to their weight and the
distances shipped. Persons not familiar with the postal regulations
governing parcel-post shipments may obtain specific information at any
post office regarding the rates and limits of weight and measurement
applicable to shipments to any other office.
PLAN No. 247. MADE SHIRTS FOR MEN
A woman had heard her friend’s husband complain of the poor-fitting
quality of ready-made shirts, and tried her hand at making him some. She
carefully took his measure, bought a good shirt pattern and made him
two. He was so well pleased that he ordered six more, and after that she
had all she could do in making shirts for men, charging a price
depending upon the style of shirt. This insured her a good living each
year.
There are other men who want shirts made, and other women who can make
them--and make money at it, too.
PLAN No. 248. SECRET OF SHOWING SAMPLES--COMPANY AGENT BECOMES A WELCOME
SALESMAN
While other canvassers were complaining that they did not get a chance
to show their goods or samples at every house they visited, many doors
being shut in their faces, an English brush company thought of a good
plan.
They furnish their salesmen with post cards saying:
“Dear Madam: This card entitles you to one of our 15-cent sink brushes,
which our agent will deliver to you at your home tomorrow. You don’t
have to buy a thing--just let him show you our full line of brushes.”
The next day after mailing this card, the agent calls with the brush,
and of course Madam is civil enough to accept it and “look at the
others.”
That “look” nearly always means a sale, and this happens at almost every
house, so the agent finds himself admitted to every home and a chance to
have a popular hearing.
This is given as a tip to other agents who have had the cold reception
usually accorded agents and peddlers.
PLAN No. 249. ASSIST MUSICAL COMPOSERS
This plan, which was successfully operated by a Chicago man, not only
brought many struggling authors of musical compositions into
considerable prominence, but proved a profitable business for himself.
He was engaged in publishing sheet music, and was in close touch with
musical people all over the country.
He inserted an ad. in the classified columns of the big city dailies,
addressed to composers who had failed as their own publishers, the ad.
asking them to write for a proposition. Hundreds of them did so, and he
made them the following offer: If they would send the plates of their
composition, and sign over their rights in the same to him, he would
publish them, with their names prominently displayed as authors, send
the authors fifty copies of each composition, and give a wide
distribution to the main issue of the same; that he would also
prominently mention their names in his publicity matter, and thus
greatly increase their reputations as authors.
Practically all of them accepted this offer, and he faithfully carried
out his part of the contract, so that, just as he said, they became
widely known in the musical world, and were soon doing business with the
leading music publishers of the country. He realized a good income from
publishing their compositions, as some of their compositions met with
good sale while he sold some of all the rest.
PLAN No. 250. HONING RAZORS BY MAIL
A Seattle man who carried a line of barbers’ supplies, decided to
increase his mail-order business by making it an object for men in the
country and small towns to have their old-style razors honed, at no cost
if not satisfactory.
He inserted an ad. in some country newspapers, offering to make “dull
razors sharp or no pay,” to return the razor, post paid, in twenty-four
hours, and if the customer was satisfied, he was to send him 25 cents.
A lot of them came in, all were sharpened and returned, and most of them
were paid for. But he had a good list of names, secured in this way, and
to these he sent a neatly written booklet, containing illustrations of
many articles in the way of shaving supplies he carried in stock, and
the orders he received from these made him a good profit, besides the
amount he was ahead on the razors he honed. The few losses did not
count, for he was out only 2 cents on each for postage, and those that
did pay placed him far ahead.
PLAN No. 251. SUCCESSFUL SALE, YET DIDN’T ADVERTISE
It isn’t often we hear of anyone who succeeds in selling a product
without newspaper advertising, but here is the case of a young man in a
small city who did.
This young man was putting up a very good cough remedy, and the first he
made he left with the druggists to sell. They liked it, and sold it
rapidly. Then he watched for the country merchants at the court house,
the hotels, and other places, and many of them agreed to carry his
remedy and push it, which made a great many more sales. In a few months
every store within 15 miles of his home town was selling it. Then a
wholesale grocery house took it up and, through its 15 traveling
salesmen, introduced it in three states, covering several hundred miles.
He demonstrated the wisdom of covering a small territory in the
beginning, and gradually increased it.
PLAN No. 252. LOCAL VIEW CALENDERS
A young printer in Los Angeles made money by getting a number of
excellent photographs of local views, and printing calendars for city
merchants, with these views as the prominent feature of each calendar.
PLAN No. 253. AMATEUR PRINTER AND HAND PRESS
A very young man who had worked in a printing office for a couple of
years decided to go into business for himself on a small scale, so he
bought a small hand press that could be carried from place to place, and
visited country fairs, picnics, summer resorts, and other places where
people gather for recreation, and did a nice business printing calling
cards and other small jobs. When he had a little leisure, he went among
the smaller merchants in out-of-the-way sections of the country and
printed letter heads, envelopes, business cards, etc., and in this way
made a good living.
PLAN No. 254. MAKING CUSHIONS, PILLOWS, ETC.
A Chicago man, who has good taste in designing pillows and cushions
earns a living by making artistic cushions, pillows, etc., for use in
cosy corners. He goes to the homes of wealthy people, shows them his
samples, and almost invariably receives an order for a number of these
articles. His prices are rather high, but his work is so artistically
done that it is well worth all it costs.
PLAN No. 255. BATHROOM EXCLUSIVELY FOR WOMEN
In a northern city of 10,000 inhabitants, a woman fitted up a neat,
tasty and well equipped bathroom exclusively for women. It became very
popular. Women who had no bathroom of their own, disliked going to one
patronized by men, at once became her regular customers.
PLAN No. 256. THE GUINEA FOWL
ANDREW S. WEIANT
Scientific Assistant in Poultry Investigations Animal Husbandry
Division.
Contribution from the Bureau of Animal Industry
A. D. MELVIN, Chief
For the following plan we are indebted to the U. S. Dept, of
Agriculture, Washington, D. C.
Guinea fowl are growing in favor as a substitute for game birds, with
the result that guinea raising is becoming more profitable.
They are raised usually in small flocks on general farms, and need a
large range for best results.
Domesticated guinea fowl are of three varieties, Pearl, White, and
Lavender, of which the Pearl is by far the most popular.
Guinea fowl have a tendency to mate in pairs, but one male may be mated
successfully with three or four females.
Guinea hens usually begin to lay in April or May, and lay 20 to 30 eggs
before becoming broody. If not allowed to sit they will continue to lay
throughout the summer, laying from 40 to 60 or more eggs.
Eggs may be removed from the nest when the guinea hen is not sitting,
but two or more eggs should be left in the nest.
Ordinary hens are used commonly to hatch and rear guinea chicks, but
guinea hens and turkey hens also may be employed successfully, although
they are more difficult to manage.
Guineas are marketed late in the summer, when they weigh from 1 to 1¹⁄₂
pounds at about 2¹⁄₂ months of age, and also throughout the fall, when
the demand is for heavier birds.
DEMAND FOR GUINEA FOWL IN THE UNITED STATES
The value of the guinea fowl as a substitute for game birds such as
grouse, partridge, quail, and pheasant is becoming more and more
recognized by those who are fond of this class of meat and the demand
for these fowls is increasing steadily. Many hotels and restaurants in
the large cities are eager to secure prime young guineas, and often they
are served at banquets and club dinners as a special delicacy. When well
cooked, guineas are attractive in appearance, although darker than
common fowls, and the flesh of young birds is tender and of especially
fine flavor, resembling that of wild game. Like all other fowl, old
guineas are very likely to be tough and rather dry.
[Illustration: Guinea Fowl.]
A few of the large poultry raisers, particularly those who are within
easy reach of the large eastern markets, make a practice of raising a
hundred or so guineas each year, but the great majority of guineas are
raised in small flocks of from 10 to 25 upon farms in the Middle West
and in the South. Many farmers keep a pair or a trio of guineas more as
a novelty than for profit, and from these a small flock is raised. The
guinea fowl doubtless would be more popular on farms were it not for its
harsh and at times seemingly never-ending cry. However, some people
consider this cry an argument in the guinea’s favor, as it gives warning
of marauders in the poultry yard. Similarly, their pugnacious
disposition, while sometimes causing disturbances among the other
poultry, also makes them show fight against hawks and other common
enemies, so that guineas sometimes are kept as guards over the poultry
yard. Often a few guineas are raised with a flock of turkeys and
allowed to roost in the same tree, where they can give warning if any
theft is attempted during the night.
PRICE OF GUINEA FOWL
The highest prices for guinea fowl are paid in the large eastern
markets. Guinea raisers, who are near these markets, or who have
developed a trade among private customers receive prices that make this
industry very profitable. One poultryman located near a New England
summer resort has raised as many as 400 guineas in one season, selling
them in August, when they weigh about 1 pound each, at $1.25 per pair.
Wholesale prices in New York usually range from 75 cents to $1 per pair
for dressed spring guineas weighing 2 pounds to the pair, and from $1.25
to $1.50 per pair for those weighing 3 to 4 pounds to the pair. Old
guineas are not wanted and seldom bring more than 50 or 60 cents a pair.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.--White guinea, male.]
In the city markets of the Middle West and South the demand for guinea
fowl is small, and the prices are correspondingly low, the average price
received by the producer being from 20 to 30 cents each. The ordinary
retail price for guineas in Birmingham, Ala., is from 30 to 40 cents,
while in St. Louis and Chicago the retail price usually is about 75
cents, and in New York $1. On the Pacific coast very few guineas are
raised and only occasionally can they be found even in the largest
markets.
BREEDING STOCK AND EGGS FOR HATCHING
The demand for guinea fowls as breeding stock is considerable, most of
them being sold in pairs and trios. Breeders of the purebred Pearl,
White, or Lavender varieties who have a reputation for high-class birds
usually have little difficulty in disposing of surplus stock at prices
ranging from $2 to $3.50 a pair and from $3 to $5 a trio. The demand for
eggs for hatching is greater than for breeding stock. From 75 cents to
$1 for 15 eggs from pure-bred birds is an ordinary price. During the
last few years a limited market for guinea eggs has developed among
commercial hatcheries which have an outlet for a few day-old guinea
chicks along with their ordinary chicks, ducklings, goslings, and turkey
poults. One hatchery near Boston has sold as many as 2,000 guinea chicks
in one season, the eggs being purchased from an extensive breeder in
Ohio and shipped by express in crates containing 360 eggs each.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.--Splashed guinea (cross between White and Pearl
varieties).]
VARIETIES OF GUINEA FOWL
Several species of wild birds known as guinea fowl are found in Africa,
and derive their name from Guinea, which is situated on the West Coast
of that continent. From one of these wild species (_Numida meleagris_)
the common domesticated guineas are descended. They have long been
domesticated, having been raised as table birds by the ancient Greeks
and Romans, and were introduced into this country by the early
settlers. In Africa, where there are still many wild flocks, they are
highly prized by hunters as game birds, and in England they sometimes
are used to stock game preserves. Even in this country a few flocks left
to shift for themselves have become so wild as to afford excellent
hunting.
Domesticated guinea fowl are of three varieties--Pearl, White, and
Lavender. The Pearl is by far the most popular. It has a purplish-gray
plumage regularly dotted or “pearled” with white and is so handsome that
frequently the feathers are used for ornamental purposes. The White
guinea fowl (fig. 1) is of pure-white plumage, and the skin is somewhat
lighter in color than in the Pearl variety. Lavender guineas resemble
those of the Pearl variety, except that the plumage is of a light gray
or lavender, regularly dotted with white instead of a dark or purplish
gray dotted with white. By crossing the Pearl or Lavender varieties with
the White, what is known as the “Splashed” guinea is produced, the
breast and flight feathers being white and the remainder of the plumage
being Pearl or Lavender (fig. 2). Crosses between guinea fowl and other
poultry, particularly chickens and less commonly turkeys, are not
unknown, but such birds without exception are sterile.
The young guinea chicks are very attractive, those of the Pearl variety
resembling young quail. They are brown in color, the under part of the
body being lighter than the rest, while the beak and legs are red. The
first feathers are brown, but these are replaced gradually by the
“pearled” feathers until at about 2 months of age the brown feathers
have disappeared completely. About this time also the wattles and helmet
begin to make an appearance.
As yet no standard of perfection has been set for guinea fowl, the birds
not being recognized by the American Poultry Association. They are
exhibited at poultry shows throughout the country, however, and most of
these shows offer prizes for the best birds. In judging guinea fowl, the
points regarded as most important are good size and uniform color. White
flight feathers in the Pearl and Lavender varieties are the most common
defects. In weight, guineas average from 3 to 4 pounds at maturity for
both male and female.
DISTINGUISHING SEX
The male and the female guinea fowl differ so little in appearance that
many persons have considerable difficulty in making a distinction.
Indeed, it often happens that those who are inexperienced in raising
these fowl will unknowingly keep all males or all females as breeding
stock. Usually the males can be distinguished by their larger helmet and
wattles and coarser head (fig. 3), but to be positive one should listen
to the cry made by each bird. That of the female resembles “buckwheat,
buckwheat,” and is decidedly different from the one-syllable shriek of
the male. When excited, both the male and the female emit one-syllable
cries, but at no time does the male imitate the cry of “buckwheat,
buckwheat.” Sex can be distinguished by this difference in the cry of
the male and female when the birds are about 2 months old.
BREEDING
Like quail and most other wild birds, guinea fowls in their wild state
mate in pairs, and this tendency prevails among domesticated guineas
also, provided the males and females are equal in number. As the
breeding season approaches, one pair after another separates from the
remainder of the flock and ranges off in the fields in search of a
suitable nesting place. Once mated in this way, the male usually remains
with his mate throughout the laying season, standing guard somewhere
near the nest while the hen is laying and ready to warn her of any
approaching danger. However, it is not necessary to mate them in pairs
under domestic conditions to secure fertile eggs, and most breeders keep
but one male for every three or four females. When mated in this way the
hens are more apt to lay near home, and several usually lay in the same
nest, thus making it much easier to find the nests and gather the eggs.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.--Distinguishing between male and female. The
helmet and wattles of the male (on left) are larger than those of the
female.]
Most guinea raisers allow their breeding stock free range of the entire
farm at all times, and this helps to keep the birds strong and vigorous.
During the winter the breeders should be fed a grain mixture of corn,
wheat, and oats twice a day, and where no green feed is available on the
range at this time of the year, vegetables, such as potatoes, turnips,
beets, and cabbage, should be substituted. Animal feed is essential to
best results and can be supplied by feeding meat scrap or skimmed milk.
Given free range, where the supply of natural feed during the winter and
early spring is ample, as it usually is in the southern portion of the
United States, the guineas can be left to pick up a considerable part of
their feed. Free access to grit, charcoal, and oyster shell is necessary
throughout the breeding and laying season. Avoid having the breeders too
fat, but keep them in good firm flesh.
While guineas can be kept in the best breeding condition upon free
range, still they can be confined, if necessary, and satisfactory
results obtained. One extensive guinea raiser has confined as many as 45
hens and 15 males in an acre pen throughout the breeding and laying
season and been successful. This pen is inclosed with a wire fence 5
feet high and the birds are prevented from flying over by clipping the
flight feathers of one wing. Within the pen is a grass pasture with
bushes here and there where the hens make their nests by scratching out
a bowl-shaped hollow in the ground. The winters being severe, a roosting
shed is provided, having a cleated board reaching from the floor to the
roosts for the wing-clipped birds to walk up.
GUINEA EGGS
As profitable egg producers guinea hens can not compete with ordinary
hens, but during the latter part of the spring and throughout the summer
they are persistent layers. The eggs are smaller than hen eggs, weighing
about 1.4 ounces each, while eggs of the common fowl average about 2
ounces each; consequently guinea eggs sell at a somewhat lower price.
There is no special market for guinea eggs and they are usually graded
by dealers as small hen eggs. Owing to the natural tendency of the
guinea hen to nest in a patch of weeds or some other well-hidden place,
many of the eggs are not found until they are no longer fit for market.
The shells of guinea eggs are so thick and often so dark that it is
difficult to test them by candling, and for this reason, and also
because the eggs are small, dealers do not like to handle them. For home
use, however, guinea eggs can be made to take the place of hen eggs, and
many regard them as superior in flavor. In composition the greatest
difference is that the shell is thicker and the yolk makes up a slightly
larger proportion of the total egg contents than in the case of hen
eggs.
[Illustration: Fig. 4.--Relative size of eggs of ordinary hen (left) and
guinea hen (right).]
LAYING
Guinea hens usually begin laying in April or May, those in the South
laying earlier than those in the North. A short time before the opening
of the laying period the hens with their mates begin searching for
suitable nesting places among the weeds and brush along the fences or in
the fields. In this search the male takes as active an interest as his
mate, and when a suitable location is found both help to dig out the
nest and make it into a suitable shape. Each day as the hen goes to the
nest to lay the male accompanies her and remains near by until she comes
off. Should anyone approach he shrieks in warning and thus betrays the
whereabouts of the nest, which might otherwise be difficult to locate.
If several guinea hens are mated with one male they usually all lay in
the same nest, but sometimes a hen after mating will wander off by
herself to make her own nest. At other times the male bird, after
helping one hen to make her nest, will then desert her and pair off with
another hen to make another nest.
From 20 to 30 and often more eggs are laid before the guinea hen becomes
broody, at which time she can be broken of her broodiness easily by
removing the eggs from her nest, when she will soon begin laying again.
If not allowed to sit, guinea hens will continue to lay throughout the
summer, laying from 40 to 60 and in some cases 100 eggs during the
season.
GATHERING THE EGGS
The wild nature of the guinea hen asserts itself in her nesting habits.
Instinct demands that the nest be well hidden from all enemies, such as
crows, dogs, skunks, opossums, rats, foxes, coyotes, and other predatory
animals. If the hen becomes frightened by the intrusion of some enemy,
or if her eggs are removed from the nest, more than likely she will
change her nesting place to a safer location. For this reason she should
not be disturbed while she is on the nest, and the eggs should not be
removed without leaving a few nest eggs in their place. If a number of
eggs are removed at one time, half a dozen left in the nest usually are
sufficient to keep the hen from seeking a new nest. If the eggs are
gathered every day, two or three usually are enough to leave as nest
eggs. It is unnecessary to remove the eggs with a spoon or to scrape
them out with a stick, as is sometimes done to prevent the hand from
coming in contact with the nest and leaving a scent. After the eggs are
gathered they should be handled with as little jarring as possible and
should be set while fresh, never holding them more than two weeks if it
can be avoided.
INCUBATION
Ordinary hens are used commonly to incubate guinea eggs, but guinea
hens, turkey hens, and incubators also can be employed successfully. The
usual sitting for a guinea hen is about 14 eggs, for a hen of one of the
general-purpose breeds such as a Plymouth Rock, 18 eggs, and for a
turkey hen, about 24 eggs. The incubation period for guinea eggs is 28
days, although frequently they start hatching on the twenty-sixth day
and are all hatched by the end of the twenty-seventh day.
If the nest in which the guinea hen becomes broody is safe from any
disturbance, she may be trusted with a sitting of eggs and more than
likely will hatch out every egg that is fertile, provided all hatch at
about the same time. As soon as the guinea chicks begin to leave the
nest the hen will leave with them, and any eggs that are late in
hatching are ruined unless they are placed in an incubator or under a
broody hen before they become chilled. Guinea hens usually are too wild
to be set anywhere except in the nest where they have become broody, and
often such a nest is unsafe. Because of these disadvantages and the fact
that guinea hens do not make the most satisfactory mothers for guinea
chicks, ordinary hens are most often used to do both the incubating and
the brooding, at least until late in the summer, when the guinea hens
often are allowed to sit and raise a brood without much attention being
given them. Broody turkey hens, when not needed to incubate turkey eggs,
often receive a sitting of guinea eggs, and they hatch them quite as
well as ordinary hens and also are able to cover more eggs.
ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION AND BROODING
Incubators are used as successfully in hatching guinea eggs as in
hatching hen eggs. They are operated in exactly the same way for either
kind, except that the thermometer is lowered sufficiently to make its
relative position above the guinea eggs similar to its former position
above the hen eggs.
Little has been done in the way of brooding guinea chicks artificially.
They are naturally of a wild nature and require free range to grow into
strong, vigorous birds. Nevertheless in one case a New England
poultryman hatched 200 guinea chicks and succeeded in raising about 125
by brooding them in exactly the same way as common chicks in a hot-water
brooder house. On bright warm days the chicks were allowed to run in a
yard about 50 by 100 feet, which had been planted to corn, and thus
afforded some green food for them to pick at. This yard was inclosed by
a 5-foot wire fence of 1-inch mesh, with 2 feet of ¹⁄₂-inch mesh around
the bottom. The guineas began flying over the fence when they were about
6 weeks old, and from then on they had free range and were allowed to
roost in the trees. Other poultrymen who have tried brooding guinea
chicks artificially report utter failures, sometimes due to white
diarrhea, and at other times the birds seem to become weak and die from
no apparent cause except too close confinement.
NATURAL BROODING OF GUINEA CHICKS
Ordinary hens make the best mothers for guinea chicks. Given warm, dry
weather and plenty of range, turkey and guinea hens can be used
successfully, but should a rain or heavy dew occur, the mother turkey or
guinea hen is apt to drag the chicks through the wet grass and many are
lost from becoming wet and chilled. Neither turkey nor guinea hens can
be induced to seek the shelter of a coop at night and during storms, but
will remain out in the fields to hover their broods wherever they happen
to be when nightfall overtakes them. When the guineas are old enough to
roost they can be trained to roost wherever desired by driving them to
the roosting place and feeding them there regularly. After the first few
nights they will come to the place themselves, but until they are old
enough to roost many of the young guineas that are being raised with
turkey or guinea hens are likely to be killed by exposure to cold and
dampness or by being led over so wild a range that they become exhausted
and are unable to keep up with the remainder of the flock.
If ordinary hens are used as mothers, it is very easy to raise a large
percentage of the total number of guinea chicks hatched. Each hen that
is to have a brood should be allowed to hatch out some of the eggs
herself, after which she will mother all that are given her. A Plymouth
Rock hen can care for 18 easily. After the hatch is completed and the
chicks are strong enough to leave the nest, the hen and brood are ready
to be removed to the coop provided for them. The greatest fault of the
hen as a mother is that on the average farm she has become accustomed to
staying about the barnyard, and if allowed to do so, she will keep her
guinea chicks there also. Conditions about the barnyard are entirely
unsuited for raising guineas, and to prevent the hen keeping them there
the coop should be placed in a distant pasture or field. Here the hen
should be induced to remain until the guineas are old enough to go to
roost.
For the first two days the hens should be confined to the coop, allowing
the chicks to run in and out at will. They will not stay away unless
there is another brood near by which they are apt to join. After the
first few days the chicks become so attached to their foster mother that
they will never leave her. By the third day the hen will have recognized
the coop as her home and can have free range without fear of her
wandering far away. At night she will return to the coop with her brood
and can be shut in to protect her from foxes or any other night
prowlers. After the dew is off the grass in the morning the coop can be
opened and the hen and her brood allowed free range again. Should a rain
come up they can easily be driven to the coop and the chicks will be
kept warm and dry. The coop should be rain proof and built without a
floor. If it is moved a short distance every day, the ground beneath it
is kept fresh and clean.
LICE
Hens to be used in brooding guinea chicks should first be completely
freed from lice. This can be done by dusting them with some good lice
powder at the time they are set and repeating once a week during the
period of incubation. Guineas are less likely to have lice than common
fowl, but when they are raised with hens care should be taken to keep
them from becoming infested. Examine the young chicks about the head and
along the wing bar at the base of the quill feathers, and if lice are
found grease these parts lightly with lard. As the guineas grow older
they take great delight in dusting themselves and usually are able to
keep free from lice.
FEEDING
Guineas are fed in much the same way as chickens, but they require less
feed, as they are natural rangers and can be trusted to find enough
seeds of weeds and grasses, buds, insects, and green vegetation in the
fields to supply much of their living. For the first 36 hours after
hatching no feed is required, as the sustenance from the egg is
sufficient to nourish them for this period. The first meal may consist
of a little hard-boiled egg mixed with bread crumbs, or bread may be
soaked in milk, squeezed partly dry, and fed in small bits. Clabbered
milk also is very good. Three times a day is as often as they need to be
fed, one feed consisting of clabbered milk or the bread and egg or bread
and milk mixture, and the other two of chick feed. If the coop is placed
in a field or pasture where green feed is available, the guinea chicks
can secure this for themselves; otherwise, sprouted oats, dandelion
leaves, lettuce, or onion tops cut fine should be furnished. Water,
grit, and fine oyster shell should be before them always.
By the end of the first week the young guineas will be finding enough
worms and insects to take the place of the egg or milk feed, so this may
be eliminated and chick feed given morning and night. If clabbered milk
is available, however, it can be continued with excellent success, since
guineas are very fond of variety in their ration and it is conductive to
quick growth. As the birds grow older, whole wheat, oats, and cracked
corn can be substituted gradually for the chick feed.
ROOSTING
When guinea fowl are from 6 to 8 weeks old they will leave their coop
and start roosting in some near-by tree or other roost that may be
provided for them. They prefer roosting in the open, but if they have
been raised with a hen they can be induced to follow her inside a
poultry house and roost there. It is advisable to have them become
accustomed to going in a house or shed of some sort, for otherwise it is
almost impossible to catch them when they are wanted for the market.
Guineas, even after they are grown, will not allow the mother hen to
leave. When she goes to her nest to lay, they follow and wait near by
until she is ready to leave again. This attachment affords an easy
method of controlling the natural wild instincts of the guinea fowl and
makes raising them under domestic conditions much simpler.
MARKETING
The marketing season for guinea fowl is during the latter part of the
summer and throughout the fall. At this time the demand in the city
markets is for young birds weighing from 1 to 2 pounds each. At about
2¹⁄₂ months of age guineas weigh from 1 to 1¹⁄₂ pounds, and at this size
they begin reaching the markets in August. As the season advances the
demand is for heavier birds. During the fall of 1916 New York wholesale
quotations for dressed guineas were as follows:
Sept. 1, guineas, spring, 2 pounds to pair,
per pair $1.00
Sept. 1, guineas, spring, 2¹⁄₂ to 3 pounds to pair,
per pair $1.25 to 1.37¹⁄₂
Oct. 1, guineas, spring, 2 pounds to pair,
per pair 1.00
Oct. 1, guineas, spring, 3 to 4 pounds to pair,
per pair 1.25 to 1.50
Nov. 1, guineas, spring, 2 pounds to pair,
per pair .75 to 1.00
Nov. 1, guineas, spring, 3 to 4 pounds to pair,
per pair 1.50 to 1.75
The usual practice in marketing game birds is to place them on the
market unplucked, and in most markets guineas are sold in this way (see
fig. 5). They look more attractive with the feathers on and sell more
readily. When dressed the small size and dark color of the guinea are
likely to prejudice the prospective customer, who may be unfamiliar with
the bird’s excellent eating qualities. For hotel and restaurant trade,
however, guineas should be dressed in the same way as common fowl.
Before shipping any birds to a market, it is advisable to inquire of the
dealer to whom they are to be shipped whether the feathers should be
removed.
[Illustration: Fig. 5.--Guinea fowl usually are marketed unplucked,
except for hotel and restaurant trade, for which they are dressed like
ordinary fowl.]
If the guineas are to be marketed with the feathers on, all that should
be done is to bleed them by severing the vein in the roof of the mouth,
allowing them to hang head downward until bleeding is complete. If the
feathers are to be removed, this should be done by dry picking. The vein
in the roof of the mouth is severed first to insure thorough bleeding,
and the knife then thrust through the groove in the roof of the mouth
into the brain. When the brain is pierced the feathers are loosened by a
convulsive movement of the muscles and can be removed easily.
PLAN No. 257. SOUVENIR POST CARDS
A Spokane man, whose total capital was $75, perfected a plan for making
money out of post cards, and realized a profit of about 90 per cent.
He bought 9,000 post cards of different designs, including embossed
floral, birthday greetings, best wishes, air-brush embossed fruit and
flowers, live series, embossed and family mottoes, cards for all the
holidays and seasons, etc. These he bought at $4.00 per 1,000 for $36.
To send out these cards in registered packages of 100 each, cost $14.50,
a total of $50.50.
The next he secured the names of several hundred general store keepers
in towns of 700 or under, and selecting 90 of these at one time, he sent
each of them 100 of the assorted cards, offering to accept $1.00 for the
lot if paid inside of ten days, or $1.25 for the 100 cards if kept more
than 10 days before remitting. He added that if they did not want to
keep the cards, he should be notified at once, and he would send postage
for their return. He also enclosed a price list of other cards, and
asked the merchants to compare the quality and prices of his cards with
other cards, and note the saving made by patronizing him.
In practically all cases the $1 was remitted inside the ten days named,
and his gross receipts from the cards that cost him $50.50 was $90, or a
net profit of $39.50. This afforded him a comfortable income by the
year.
PLAN No. 258. NOVEL CANVASSING METHOD
An enterprising agent who had secured several formulas, had them printed
separately on good paper, with the selling price marked at 50 cents
each.
He made up a small quantity of each article mentioned, for demonstration
purposes, and bought a gross of cheap silverene sugar spoons at a cost
of less than 5 cents each, to be used as premiums, and started out on a
house-to-house canvassing expedition.
He would call at a house and ask the lady if she had any clothing that
was soiled with grease or paint or a soiled glove that she would allow
him to clean without charge. Almost every housewife had exactly what he
mentioned, and quickly brought it out, as it would cost her nothing to
have it cleaned. Having thoroughly cleaned the clothing or gloves he
would then rub a little of the furniture polish on a chair, and clean a
silver spoon or the nickel on the stove with his metal polish, and by
this time he would have her deeply interested. Then he took from his
grip one of the silverene spoons, with the remark that he was not
selling the cleaners or polishers but simply the formulas for making
them from ingredients procurable at any drug store, and that she could
have any two of the 50-cent formulas for 50 cents and he would throw in
the sugar spoon as a premium. Usually he got the half dollar without
further argument, but if the lady hesitated he would add another formula
or two more if necessary, as they cost him nothing but the printing, and
the spoon cost but 5 cents, so he would have been away ahead if he had
given her one each of all the formulas and the sugar spoon besides.
PLAN No. 259. A CIRCULATING LIBRARY IN SMALL TOWN
There are several ways of establishing circulating libraries, but
probably the best plan yet devised is one worked out by a young man
living in a middle-western city.
Going into a town of not less than 800 or 1,000 people, he first
arranges with some trustworthy merchant, usually the local druggist, to
handle the books and make his place the library headquarters. The
druggist is glad to do this without charge, as it will bring many people
to his store who have not been coming there before, and probably mean a
number of new customers.
He then canvasses the town for members, on a basis as follows: The
membership fee to be $1.75, and for two years will entitle the members
or their families to the use of any of the books in the circulating
library, one book to be placed therein for each member secured, but at
least fifty members must be secured, thus giving each one the chance to
read the fifty books in the two years for $1.75. Of course, more than
fifty members are secured, if possible, and the membership fee is to be
paid to the druggist or merchant handling the same, upon the arrival of
the books.
When all the members possible have been secured, the originator of this
plan orders the books forwarded to the resident manager, who is the
druggist or merchant already mentioned, and the membership fee is
collected and sent to the home address of the man who established the
library, while he goes on to the next town to start another library. It
does not require more than a week in each town, and as the books are
bought in quantities at a very low figure, he makes a good living each
year from this plan.
PLAN No. 260. A NEW WAY TO SELL MEMORIALS
A young man living in a southern city originated a plan by which he was
able to sell thousands of memorials all over the country, while not
appearing to be selling anything.
Supplying himself with an impressive looking blank book, in which long
lists of names could be written, he called at every house in the
territory he was canvassing, and informed the lady at each place that he
was compiling a list of the deaths in the county for statistical
purposes. In those cases where deaths had occurred in the family he
would ask for the names, dates of births and death, and having secured
these, he would say, as he was leaving:
“These records are going to be very beautiful, and the lady next door
has asked me to show her what they will be like. If you wish, I can
bring yours at the same time, so that you may see if I have all the
facts correctly stated.”
Having bought several hundred memorials at a low figure, those with
angels on them predominating, and selecting from books of poetry stanzas
appropriate to each of the memorials, he had these, together with the
names and dates, printed in gold letters, pasting the printed slips on
the memorials, near the bottom, thus making them very attractive.
Returning to the route he had formerly canvassed he would call at each
house where he had procured names and dates and say to the lady that, in
compliance with her request, he had come to show her the record. It was
so beautifully done that in practically every case the lady would ask if
it were for sale. He would sell the record for $1.60 or $2.00, and as at
least half of this was clear profit, and he sold many thousands of
memorials in this way, some idea of his earnings may be gained.
PLAN No. 261. GROWING AND SELLING POTTED PLANTS
An Illinois woman, wishing to earn a little money for herself, obtained
catalogs from various seed firms, and sent 50 cents to one of them for
geranium seeds.
She planted them in shallow boxes, and got more than 200 plants from
them. She shifted these plants from the boxes to small tin cans, and
sold them to her neighbors for 10 cents each, thus receiving $20 for her
50-cent investment.
Succeeding so well in her first venture, she sent for more seeds, some
plants and thumb pots, and bought collections of small plants, from
which she took cuttings when they had grown larger.
She soon had more orders for plants than she could fill, so she built a
low shed on the south side of her house, with old window frames and
glass for a roof, and produced on a larger scale. She found that
geraniums, begonias and ferns were most in demand, and she specialized
in these. In a year or two she had a business of her own that was not
only pleasant and fascinating but profitable enough to give her an
independent income.
PLAN No. 262. MONEY FROM GEESE
Very few people seem to know that although geese pay greater profits
than any other domestic bird, they cost much less to raise than other
species of fowl. But a farmer’s wife in Kansas knew this, and she
utilized her knowledge in a very profitable way.
She realized that the market for live goose feathers never could become
glutted, and that dressed geese for Thanksgiving and Christmas time
brought enormous prices.
She began early in the summer as she knew they were expensive to keep
over winter. She bought one pair and a setting of eggs and from these
she raised fifteen fine young geese within the first three months.
Another setting brought out twelve more, and by fall she had a nice
flock of thrifty young ones. By late November they were almost full
grown, raised entirely on green stuff, so that just before Thanksgiving
she plucked them all, including the old ones, and had a fine lot of
fresh, clean feathers which later sold for very high prices. Then, after
plucking the birds, she killed them all, dressed them, and sold every
one of them before Thanksgiving. She could have sold many more for they
were choice, fat birds, and all young except the two she started with.
When she counted up her total receipts from the sale of the feathers and
the dressed geese, she was surprised, and the next year she went into
the business on a much larger scale, with correspondingly increased
profits, which were sufficient to make her livelihood.
PLAN No. 263. STARTED WITH THE LIBRARY COLUMN IN NEWSPAPER
A literary woman in a small city, realizing the inability of many people
to make proper selections of books from the public library, in
conjunction with the librarian, induced the editor of the local daily
paper to let her establish a “library column” in the Saturday issue, in
which she sought to instruct the public regarding the choice of books,
the use of the card catalog, the consultation of shop lists, the
periodical index, and various reference works. She was to be paid $5.00
a week, if she “made good,” which she did.
Then she inaugurated a “club column” in the same issue of the paper, and
gave interesting news of club meetings, with comments upon the work
done, etc., and for this she received another $5.00.
Later the editor urged her to add a “home department” to her work, at
still another $5.00 a week, and on this modest salary she managed to
live comfortably. In two years, however, she was offered the control of
the home department of the Sunday edition of a large city daily at more
than twice her $15 a week in the small town, and she promptly accepted
it.
PLAN No. 264. CANNING FOR CITY PEOPLE
A farmer’s wife, who had plenty of fruits, small fruits, berries,
vegetables, etc., but had very few jars in which to put them up,
arranged with a number of families in the city to have them furnish the
jars, while she would furnish the fruits and the sugar, and do the
canning, for 20 cents per jar. As the fruit thus put up was worth at
least 50 cents per quart jar, the city people obtained it cheaply
enough, while the farmer’s wife made $80 by putting up 400 jars during
the season. This made it profitable all around, and saved a lot of farm
products that would otherwise have gone to waste. This plan can be
worked on a larger scale to afford any one a good living each year.
[Illustration: Plan No. 265. He Loves the Out-of-door Life]
PLAN No. 265. “LANDSCAPING” CITY LOTS
Two landscape gardeners, who lived in a residence part of the city where
scant attention was paid by the owners to the appearance of their lawns
and parking strips, undertook to change the looks of the neighborhood,
and create a good business for themselves.
Selecting ten blocks on a graded street, along which were good houses
and many trees, most of them sadly neglected, they proposed to the
owners of the various houses on both sides of the street to give it the
careful and skillful attention the places needed, at so much a month.
Most of the owners signed contracts for this work, and at the end of the
season each property so cared for by these men had improved better than
100 per cent in appearance. The result was that several owners were
offered higher prices for their property than they had ever thought it
worth, and the next year those who had at first refused to employ the
landscape gardeners were the first to sign up for the season just
starting.
PLAN No. 266. BOSSING OTHER PEOPLE’S GARDENS, OR GARDEN MANAGEMENT
A suburban resident who knew all about gardens and gardening, yet
realized the utter ignorance of the average suburbanite regarding the
planting and care of gardens, the prevention and extermination of insect
pests, and a lot of other things necessary to know, decided one spring
that he would not raise a garden that year, but would make a good living
by taking care of other people’s gardens, not doing the work himself,
but taking general supervision of it and telling the owners just how it
should be done, if they wished to make a success of gardening.
Most of the people in that suburb wanted to raise gardens, but didn’t
know how to do it themselves, so they were glad enough to secure the
services of this expert at so much for the season, and do as he told
them.
He made a careful survey of every garden under contract, noting the
soil, slope and general characteristics of the location, named the kind
and quantity of seeds or plants, to be given a certain amount of space,
the kind of fertilizer, if any, that must be used, the time of planting,
the method of cultivation, the symptoms of insect pests, and the kind of
spray to be used in their destruction, and every other item of knowledge
needed by those who didn’t know but were willing to learn.
The outcome of it all was that that particular suburb was frequently
mentioned in the city papers as the one possessing the prize gardens for
many miles around, and the owners found them the source of profit
instead of loss, besides having the satisfaction of knowing how to do it
next year.
And the expert was equally pleased for he had made $2,000 that season by
simply telling other people what to do.
PLAN No. 267. REPAIRING LAWN MOWERS
One would scarcely think there could be much of a living in simply
traveling around and repairing lawn mowers, but a man in a western city,
who is “handy with tools,” and has a taste for machinery, makes a good
living for himself and a large family.
The mechanism of a lawn mower is easily learned by carefully studying
its construction, finding out what each particular piece is for, how it
gets out of order, how to repair it, in short, to become a master of the
machine.
He not only covers a large territory in his home city, where all work in
that line is reserved for him, by those for whom he has already done
repairing, but he occasionally finds time to take in one or two outside
towns where, in a few days, he takes all the lawn mowers that need
repair and puts them in first class working condition.
His charges are 50 to 75 cents an hour. He makes a living, and has
bought and paid for a nice home.
PLAN No. 268. MONEY FROM SMALL LUNCHES
That “many a mickle makes a muckle,” is pretty well exemplified in the
case of a young man living in Buffalo, who has built up a very good
business of his own through supplying soda water counters, small lunch
rooms, tourists, school houses, factories, etc., with what he calls “nut
sandwiches.” These he makes from shredded wheat “triscuits” by cutting
them in two and spreading peanut butter between the two sides. He puts
these up in wax paper and retails them at a low price, yet one that
enables him to make a discount when selling them in quantities.
PLAN No. 269. A NOVEL LUNCH PLAN
There is a concern in a southern city that puts up and delivers lunches
in any part of town, to those who cannot go home to their mid-day meal.
A lunch they sell and deliver for a comparatively small sum, which
includes two ham sandwiches, one cheese sandwich, a piece of pie and a
piece of cake, packed in a paper box, with paper napkin, toothpicks,
etc. Less elaborate lunches are sold for 10 cents, and more complete
ones for a higher price, and deliveries are made by boys on bicycles,
who are hired for two hours each day.
As the expense has been reduced to a minimum, the young fellows at the
head of the concern are able to send out a better lunch than can be
bought at the restaurants, for the same price and yet make a good profit
out of the business for themselves.
PLAN No. 270. OLD STREET-CAR BECOMES DINING ROOM
A lady in southern California motored to a little tourist town up the
mountain side to look at some property she thought of buying. Noticing
an abandoned street car in the rear of a gift shop, she leased it from
the owner and converted it into a “dining car.” Taking out the seats,
she put in adjustable tables and chairs, electric lights and pretty
cretonne hangings. The tables she painted buff, with black enamel tops;
the dishes were in conventional designs of the same coloring, while
quaint birds and flowers were the shapes given the salt and pepper
shakers. Table runners and napkins she made of soft Indian-head,
hand-hemmed.
A kitchen was built at one end of the car and reached by a protected
platform, so no kitchen odors reached the car.
The menu was of the “homey” variety, and light lunches were served all
day, with a 6-o’clock dinner.
The patronage of hungry motorists from cities on the coast, as well as
the people of the little mountain town, makes it lively at all times,
and a very profitable as well as pleasant business.
Other disused cars all over the country could be put to the same
practical and profitable use, if people only thought of it.
PLAN No. 271. FRUIT PRESERVED AND MARKETED BY A WOMAN
To help her husband rise from a $10-a-week clerkship to a factory of his
own, where he is making more money in a day than he formerly made in a
month as a “hired man,” is what a New York woman accomplished by a
little idea that came to her one day.
Having made a practice of visiting the large markets late in the
evening, and buying over-ripe fruit for a small price, as much of it
would not keep over night, she suggested to her husband that, as he quit
his work at 5 o’clock every day and had a half-holiday on Saturdays, he
should visit these markets as late as possible on Mondays, Wednesdays,
and Saturdays, buy fruit at low prices, bring it home and let her can or
preserve it. Then on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday evenings, he could
carry samples of the canned or preserved fruits on his bicycle to clubs,
hotels and the best residences, let the chefs and cooks sample them, and
take orders.
Her husband thought the suggestion a good one, so he bought the fruits,
berries, etc., as cheaply as possible, near closing time of the markets,
and she canned or preserved them in the best way.
The fruit sold readily; he found many orders waiting for him when making
his second calls, and the first week their profits were $30, or three
times the amount of the husband’s salary. Of course, he resigned at
once, and they enlarged the scope of their operations to such an extent
that in a year or two they had removed to a suburb, rented a piece of
ground, where they raised cucumbers for pickles, which she pickled
according to a recipe that created a tremendous demand for them, and
later they established a factory for putting up fruit which has made
them good profits every year since it started.
[Illustration: Plan No. 272. “Not What I Have, but What I Do is My
Kingdom”]
PLAN No. 272. A WOMAN LANDSCAPE ARTIST ASSISTED AN ARCHITECT
An architect living in a western city has a wife who possesses excellent
taste and marked talent in the matter of planning surroundings for
homes, and her own little cottage is an example of what a woman with
excellent taste can do.
Her husband had designed many houses in a good residence district, but
as the owners lacked the taste necessary to add attractive surroundings,
they did not present a pleasing appearance.
In order to assist her husband she volunteered to furnish plans for
laying out and decorating the grounds free of charge, and in every case
made a great improvement in the appearance of the place. So favorable
was the impression created by her work that she was paid for her plans
and her services which greatly assisted her husband’s business.
A couple of years later her husband was given a contract for designing
all the houses to be built by a land company on a large tract, and she
was given a contract for all the landscape gardening.
PLAN No. 273. A WOMAN MADE HUCKLEBERRY PIE
Just because she knew that almost every man on earth likes huckleberry
pie, a woman started out on a capital of one dollar to help her husband
to rise from a job in a cotton mill to a business of his own.
The husband went for a two-weeks, much needed, vacation and rest in the
mountains, and on that very morning a colored boy came to the door with
two pails, one filled with huckleberries, the other with blackberries,
both of which he offered to sell for 25 cents.
She wanted the berries, but she couldn’t break that dollar, the last bit
of money she had on earth, and the boy turned tearfully away. Just as he
reached the gate, an idea struck her, and she called him back, paid him
the quarter and took the berries. It was then ten minutes to 8 A. M.
At 11.30 she had sixteen delicious huckleberry and blackberry pies out
of the oven and in a basket. Then she hurried over to the factory where
her husband worked, and asked and received permission to stand at the
exit of the cotton mill and offer her pies to the workmen as they came
out at 12.
When they came out and saw those pies, and were told they could buy them
at a low price, inside of ten minutes every pie was gone, and she went
home with a good profit as the result of her first day’s pie-making. The
next day she had pies for all the workmen, and her business grew so fast
that at the end of the fourth day she wired her husband to come home and
help her.
Today they own a big pie house that is making several thousand dollars a
year, and it all came from the start the wife made on one dollar.
PLAN No. 274. LITTLE GIRLS’ COOKING SCHOOL
Establish a school in which, for a small weekly sum, you can teach
little girls the art of cooking. Vacation is the best time to start
this, when teachers and pupils are both at leisure. A large class should
be easily formed for this purpose.
PLAN No. 275. GIRLS’ SEWING SCHOOL
Those who cannot combine the teaching of cooking and sewing in the same
school, will find a separate school a profitable occupation, or both
together could be turned into a domestic housework school.
PLAN No. 276. A HOME STORE
Anyone who has a house with a window fronting on the street, or near it,
can start a little store in which most of the goods are home-made, and
so show a large profit and make a good deal of money. It all depends on
the enterprise of the storekeeper.
PLAN No. 277. COLLECTING AND SELLING NAMES
For one who lives in the country there is a profitable business in
collecting names and addresses of residents in each rural community and
selling them to the publishers of farm journals. They will pay well for
these names. In the city it is an easy matter to find a market for the
names.
PLAN No. 278. A MAILING BUREAU
Operating a folding, addressing and mailing bureau is a pleasant and
profitable home business that will grow and make money for the person
who owns it.
PLAN No. 279. CARDBOARD KITCHEN LIST
Print on a good, strong piece of cardboard a list of articles needed in
the home from day to day, with the heading, “Lest We Forget,”--the
housewife is to stick a pin in each article wanted on the list, which
begins with apples and ends with yeastcake.
All around the sides of this list have spaces for ads. which the
merchants will gladly pay for, as the list is consulted several times
every day, and the names of advertisers become familiar to the entire
household.
Distribute free of charge the cards to the housewives. Such a medium is
valuable to the advertiser and will yield a good advertising solicitor a
good living.
PLAN No. 280. THE CITY HOME GARDEN
For this following plan we are indebted to the United States
Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C.
Fresh vegetables for an average family may be grown upon a large back
yard or city lot.
The use of fresh vegetables conserves meats, grains, and other foods
produced on farms.
The production of vegetables at home relieves transportation
difficulties and solves the marketing problem.
The city home garden utilizes idle land and spare time for food
production.
Thousands of acres of idle land that may be used for gardens are still
available within the boundaries of our large cities.
Some of the problems that confront the city gardener are more difficult
than those connected with the farm garden, and it is the object of this
article to discuss these problems from a practical standpoint.
[Illustration: City Farming.]
The problems that confront the city gardener are vastly greater than
those of the farmer, who is free to select the choicest plat of ground
upon the farm for his vegetable garden. The city-lot or back-yard garden
as a rule offers little choice of soil or location. The available land
is often shaded a part of the day, and the soil frequently consists of
hard clay or is covered to a depth of several inches with cinders,
broken stone, or other materials unfit for growing plants. The city
gardener is usually handicapped by lack of practical experience and for
want of suitable tools with which to do the work. Hand methods must be
employed for the most part, and numerous local difficulties must be
overcome. It is possible, however, to grow certain kinds of vegetables
under very adverse conditions, and the results obtained by many city
gardeners are truly remarkable.
The many thousands of city gardens have played an important part in
providing a substantial increase in the food supply of the country. It
is essential that the work so well started should continue and that the
many thousands of acres of unoccupied land in and around our cities be
utilized for food production. The experimental stage of city gardening
has been passed, and, in the language of one of the State workers, “the
city garden movement will not have achieved its full purpose until all
suitable lands are utilized and every family table is fully supplied.”
[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Small back-yard gardens in a residence section
of Washington, D. C.]
The city back-yard or vacant-lot garden provides a supply of vegetables
at home without transportation or handling costs. Vegetables from the
home garden are fresher and more palatable than those brought from a
distance. Many persons who work in offices, stores, and factories have
time mornings and evenings that may well be devoted to the cultivation
of a garden, thus utilizing spare time and idle land for food
production. The home vegetable garden should be a family interest and
all members of the family who are able to do so should take part in its
cultivation. There is no better form of outdoor exercise than moderate
working in the home garden, and few lines of recreational work will give
greater returns for the time employed. (Fig. 1.)
TYPE AND LOCATION OF THE CITY GARDEN
There are three general types of city vegetable gardens: Back-yard
gardens, vacant-lot gardens, and community gardens. In locating the home
garden the back yard or the ground surrounding the dwelling should be
given first consideration, because of the convenience both in working
the garden and in gathering the products as wanted for use. If the
grounds around the dwelling are too small or too densely shaded or if
the soil is of such a character that vegetables can not be grown
successfully upon it, the use of a vacant lot in the neighborhood is
recommended. (Fig. 2.) Community gardens located in the outskirts of the
city, where a tract of land can be secured, are adapted for the use of
families living in apartment houses; also for shopworkers and those
employed by large manufacturing concerns. There is a distinct advantage
in having the garden located near the home, as much of the work of
tending it may be done during spare moments, and the garden can be
protected from theft or from injury by stray animals.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.--A vacant-lot garden on one of the principal
residence streets of Washington, D. C.]
Do not locate the garden on land upon which the sun does not shine for
at least five hours each bright day. Do not locate the garden on soil
where the rock is but a few inches below the surface and where there is
insufficient moisture. Do not attempt to grow a garden where a fill has
been made with cinders, broken bricks, or rock, or where the original
soil has been buried with materials upon which weeds will not grow. If
weeds grow rank and vigorous it is a sure sign that the soil is good. Do
not plant a garden under or near large trees that will steal all the
moisture and plant food from the crops. The maples and the oaks are the
kinds of trees that are most injurious to crops planted near them. Do
not plant a garden on low land where the crops are reasonably sure to be
lost from overflow. Failure to observe one or more of the above
precautions has resulted in disappointment on the part of many
gardeners.
Where there is any choice in the selection of a garden location the
following points should be considered. The land should be level or
gently sloping toward the south or southeast. The drainage should be
good, but the land should not be so steep as to wash during rains. The
location should be higher than adjoining land, in order to safeguard
against frost, as frost does most damage on the lower levels. The ideal
soil is a dark sandy loam with a rather retentive subsoil. The soil
should be deep and break up loose and mellow when plowed or spaded.
Plenty of organic matter or rotted manure should be present in the soil,
in order to give it the power to retain large quantities of moisture and
to carry the crops through periods of drought.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.--Long straight rows of vegetables which add
attractiveness to a garden and lessen the labor of cultivation. Note how
this garden has produced these results.]
The ideal garden spot is seldom found, but it is often possible to
choose a location that embodies a number of the more important
conditions and then supply others. The difficulties of the first season
are greater than those of subsequent years, and a garden plat if
properly handled will improve with each season’s cultivation.
On account of the wide variety of local conditions that must be met, no
definite plan can be given for a garden. A plan should be drawn on paper
and the location of each crop decided upon. As a general rule, the rows
should run north and south, but it is more important to have the rows
run the long way of the garden for convenience in cultivating. Figure 3
shows a well-planned garden.
It is essential that the garden be so arranged that the tall-growing
crops will not shade the smaller ones.
PREPARATION OF THE SOIL
With the location of the garden settled, the first step is the
preparation of the soil. First, remove anything that would interfere
with the plowing or spading of the soil. If the location is the home
back yard it is assumed that the ground is free from débris and ready to
be broken up. If the garden is to be located on a vacant lot it is
probable that there will be stones, broken bricks, tin cans, and other
trash to be gotten rid of. If the quantity of trash is not too great it
should be hauled to some dump, but if there is so much of it as to make
its removal expensive it may be piled on one side or one end of the lot.
In some cases stone fences have been built along the outside of lots
from the stones that were scattered over the ground. This cleaning-up
process requires considerable work and should be done whenever the
weather will permit prior to preparation for planting.
The next step in the garden-making process will be to plow or spade the
ground. If the land is in sod it should be turned in the fall so that
the sods will rot. Heavy clay soils should be turned up loosely and
allowed to lie exposed to the freezing and thawing of the winter months.
In all cases manure should be turned under if it can be secured. If the
surface soil is so hard that it can not be spaded or plowed to advantage
a pick or mattock should be used and the ground broken to a depth of 8
or 10 inches. Plenty of manure is about the only thing that will bring a
soil of this character into condition. The supply of manure in cities is
now quite limited, and the city gardener should make arrangements early
in the season to get what he needs. It is assumed that the average
back-yard garden is about 30 by 60 feet in size. About 1 ton or one
2-horse load of stable manure can be spaded into the soil of a plat of
this size each year. On soil which has not been worked before and which
is especially heavy and wanting in organic matter a larger quantity of
manure can be used. Street sweepings are not desirable, as they
frequently contain considerable oil. Sawdust and planing-mill shavings
should not be used on garden land. Leaves may be mixed with heavy soils,
but it is best to have them fairly well rotted before they are applied
to the land. Early breaking and exposure to frost is the best method of
getting land that has not been under cultivation for a number of years
in shape for planting. Sandy soils do not benefit by freezing and
thawing as do the heavy clay soils, and in all cases precautions must be
taken so that the soil will not wash away during heavy rains. It is a
very good plan to plow or spade the land in the autumn, sow rye upon it,
and then turn the rye under early in the spring.
In regions where the soil is very sandy it is often necessary to keep
the surface covered with coarse manure or with some material to prevent
it from blowing away. If this precaution is not taken the entire surface
soil will be blown off to the depth of the plowing. In the spring the
coarser part of the covering should be raked off or turned under before
pulverizing and fitting the surface for planting.
Nothing is gained by working the land before it is sufficiently dry in
the spring. In sections where the ground freezes hard during winter no
harm will be done by plowing it in the fall or during the early winter
when quite wet, as the freezing will correct any injury, but land that
is worked when too wet in the spring will be injured for the entire
season. The usual test is to press a small quantity of the soil in the
palm of the hand. If it is too wet for working it will adhere in a
solid mass and retain the imprint of the hand, but if dry enough to work
it will crumble apart of itself.
When the test shows its fitness for working, land which was plowed or
spaded in the fall should be thoroughly harrowed, raked, hoed, or forked
over to a depth of 4 or 5 inches, in order to fit it for planting. The
more carefully this part of the work is done the easier it will be to
care for the crops during the growing season. Land which was not worked
in the fall should be plowed or spaded as soon as it dries out
sufficiently in the spring, and the top should be thoroughly fitted, as
suggested above.
_Use of Ashes on Garden Soils_
Gardeners frequently ask whether it is advisable to use coal and wood
ashes on garden soils. The use of coal ashes on heavy clay soils will
tend to lighten them, but the ashes should be screened before they are
applied, in order to remove any clinkers or cinders. They should then be
spread evenly upon the land and thoroughly mixed with it. Coal ashes
have little value as a fertilizer, their use being mainly to loosen the
soil and make it more workable.
Wood ashes that are produced by the burning of hard woods, such as oak
and hickory, frequently contain as much as 7 per cent of potash and also
a little lime and for this reason are a valuable fertilizer. Wood ashes
produced by the burning of pine and other soft woods and hardwood ashes
that have been exposed to the weather and have had their potash leached
from them have comparatively little value as a fertilizer. Not more than
50 pounds of reasonably dry unleached hardwood ashes should be applied
to a plat of ground 30 by 60 feet in size, and these should be well
mixed with the soil.
_Liming Garden Soils_
An application of about 12 pecks of hydrated or air-slaked lime to a
plat of land 30 by 60 feet in size is advisable in most cases, but there
are certain soils that do not need lime. Lime has the effect of
loosening and pulverizing heavy clay soils. It also has the effect of
sweetening poorly drained soils and those that have a tendency to be
sour. It is poor policy, however, to endeavor to remedy conditions
resulting from lack of drainage by the application of lime without first
providing suitable drainage and removing the cause of the sourness of
the soil. Lime should always be applied to the surface soil and not
turned under. It should not be applied to land that is to be planted to
Irish potatoes, on account of the tendency of the tubers to become
infested with scab where lime is present. Perhaps the best method of
applying lime to the remainder of the garden is to scatter it over the
surface after plowing and before the land is harrowed and fitted for
cultivation in the spring. (Fig. 4.) One application each year is
sufficient, and much larger quantities may be applied on heavy clay
soils than on light or sandy soils. Lime should never under any
circumstances be mixed with commercial fertilizer or with manure, as it
liberates the nitrogen contained in them.
_Use of Manure on Garden Land_
The use of barnyard manure on garden land has already been mentioned,
but too much stress can not be placed upon this important point. The
most successful commercial gardeners not only follow the practice of
plowing or spading under large quantities of manure, but they stack up
manure to rot and apply the rotted manure as a top-dressing when fitting
the land for planting. Beans, tomatoes, and Irish potatoes may be
injured by the use of too much manure, but it is practically impossible
to have the land too rich for most garden crops.
Poultry and pigeon manures are excellent fertilizers for the garden but
must be used sparingly, as they are very strong and are liable to burn
the crops. These manures should be kept under shelter until used and
then should be well mixed with the soil, care being taken that no lumps
of the manure come in direct contact with the seeds. Not more than 200
pounds of poultry or pigeon manure should be applied to a garden plat 30
by 60 feet in size.
[Illustration: Fig. 4.--Applying lime to a garden after plowing and
before harrowing.]
Sheep manure is sold by florists and seedsmen and is an excellent
fertilizer for garden crops. Like poultry manure, it is very strong and
should be used sparingly. A little pulverized sheep manure sprinkled
along the rows and worked into the soil will give the plants a vigorous
growth.
_Commercial Fertilizers_
The use of commercial fertilizers is advisable, especially where plenty
of stable or barnyard manure can not be procured. As a rule, fertilizers
should be sown broadcast and thoroughly harrowed or raked into the upper
3 inches of soil. Where applied underneath the rows the fertilizer
should be well mixed with the soil before the seeds are planted. Great
care must be taken in the use of commercial fertilizers in a small
garden, as there is always a tendency to use too much and do more injury
than good. From 40 to 60 pounds of a standard fertilizer, such as is
used by truck gardeners, may be applied to a plot of ground 30 by 60
feet in size.
Commercial fertilizers may be used in very moderate quantities as a side
dressing for most growing crops. Nitrate of soda is frequently used in
this manner, especially with crops that are grown for their leaf and
stem development rather than for fruit. Where used as a side dressing
it is best to apply the fertilizer a short distance from the plants but
where the small feeder roots will reach it. The fertilizer should be
worked into the soil immediately.
It should be remembered that the best results are obtained by the use of
commercial fertilizers where there is plenty of manure or organic matter
in the soil. All sods and weeds and the remains of garden plants that
are not infected with disease should be turned under or composted in one
corner of the garden, in order to form material with which to enrich the
soil.
TOOLS
Elaborate or expensive tools are not necessary for the cultivation of a
small garden; in fact, a spade or spading fork, a hoe, a steel rake, and
a line with two stakes to fasten it to are all that are required. A
garden trowel and a watering can may be added to advantage but are not
absolutely necessary. A wheelbarrow, wheel cultivator, and seed drill
are desirable for the larger gardens and might be procured and used
jointly by several gardeners in a neighborhood. After the soil is broken
and in shape for planting, the hoe and the steel rake are the important
tools for a small garden.
[Illustration: Fig. 5.--Window box for starting early plants in the
house.]
SEEDS
A comparatively small quantity of seeds is required for planting the
average city garden, but these should be procured in ample time and
should be of the highest quality obtainable. The best are the cheapest
in the long run. Garden seeds should not be wasted; only enough should
be planted to insure a perfect stand. Any seeds that are left over
should be stored in a ventilated tin or glass container, to protect them
from mice until needed for later planting. The particular variety of any
crop to plant will depend upon local conditions. There are usually
experienced persons in each community who can be relied upon for advice
as to the best varieties to plant in that section. A number of the seed
houses are now offering special garden-seed collections adapted to
various conditions and sizes of gardens.
STARTING EARLY PLANTS
Half the pleasure and profit of a garden is derived from having
something to use just as early in the spring as possible. In many cities
and towns last year the local greenhouse men grew thousands of plants
which were sold to home gardeners at very reasonable prices. It often
happens, however, that home gardeners do not have the opportunity to
purchase well-grown plants, so they must start their own supply of early
plants in the house or in a hotbed if they desire to have their crops
mature early. Among the garden crops that may be started to advantage in
this manner are tomatoes, early cabbage, peppers, eggplant, and lettuce.
Even cucumbers, melons, beets, snap beans, Lima beans, and sweet corn
may be started indoors by using flowerpots, paper bands, or berry boxes
to hold the soil.
[Illustration: Fig. 6.--Starting early plants; preparing the seed box.]
Where just a few tomato and cabbage plants are desired, the seeds may be
sown in a cigar box or in a shallow tin pan with a few holes punched in
the bottom for drainage. A very good plan is to secure a soap box and
saw off about 3 inches of the bottom portion to form a tray. If the top
has been saved, it can be nailed on and the box again sawed, forming a
second tray. This will leave about 3 inches of the middle of the box
upon which a piece of wire netting may be tacked to form a sieve for
screening the soil used in the trays. Any shallow box (fig. 5) that may
be fitted into the window of a living room where there is a reasonable
amount of sunlight will answer for starting early plants.
After filling the trays with sifted soil, smooth off even with the top
and slightly firm down the soil in the trays by means of a small piece
of board. Use the edge of a ruler or strip of thin board (fig. 6) to
form little grooves or furrows in the soil in which to plant the seeds.
These little rows should be about 2 inches apart and one-fourth inch
deep. Scatter the seeds of tomatoes, early cabbage, peppers, and
eggplant, as shown in figure 7, very thinly in the rows and cover them
by sifting a small quantity of soil over the entire surface. Smooth the
top of the soil gently and water very lightly.
The box should then be placed where the temperature will remain at about
70° F. If conditions are kept right, the seedlings will appear in five
to eight days after the seed is planted. From this time on the plants
will need constant care, especially as regards watering. Owing to the
fact that the light from a window comes from one side only, the
seedlings will draw toward the glass, and the box should be turned each
day, so as to keep the plants from growing crooked. Just as soon as the
little plants are large enough to handle they should be transplanted to
other boxes and given 2 or 3 inches of space in each direction.
[Illustration: Fig. 7.--Starting early plants; sowing seed in the window
box.]
Where the required number of plants is too great for growing in window
boxes, a hotbed or cold frame may be provided. The usual method of
constructing a hotbed is to first dig a shallow pit 8 to 18 inches deep,
according to locality, and pack it full of fermenting stable manure. The
manure before being placed in the pit should be turned over once or
twice in a pile, in order to insure even heating. It may then be packed
into the hotbed pit and tramped uniformly. Standard hotbed sash are 3
feet in width and 6 feet in length, and the size of the bed should be
made to suit the number of sash employed. A framework of boards 18 to 24
inches high at the back and about 12 inches high in front is placed over
the manure-filled pit to support the sash. (Fig. 8.)
About 3 or 4 inches of fine garden loam is spread evenly over the manure
and the bed allowed to stand four or five days to warm up before any
seed is sown. At first the temperature of the bed will run rather high,
and it is best to delay planting the seeds in it until it begins to
decline. This can best be determined by placing a cheap thermometer,
with the bulb about 3 inches below the surface of the soil, and watching
it until the temperature falls below 85° F. before planting the seeds.
If glazed sash are not available for covering the hotbed, heavy muslin
may be used instead; the glass, however, makes the most desirable form
of covering. Care must be taken to give the bed sufficient ventilation
to prevent overheating; as it is liable to heat up rapidly when the sun
shines full upon the glass. Watering should be done during the early
part of the day and the bed given enough air so that the plants will dry
off before night. The bed should be closed before evening, in order to
conserve enough heat to carry it through the night in good condition. If
the weather should turn severely cold, a covering of straw, blankets, or
canvas may be thrown over the bed to protect it.
[Illustration: Fig. 8.--Preparation of a sash-covered frame for starting
early plants.]
A cold frame is constructed in exactly the same manner as a hotbed, with
the exception that no manure is placed beneath it to supply heat.
Before the plants are set in the garden, either from the hotbed or the
cold-frame they should be gradually hardened to outside conditions by
giving them more ventilation each day. Finally, remove the sash entirely
on bright days and replace them for the night. The aim should be to
produce strong, healthy plants that will make a quick start when placed
in the garden.
PLANTING ZONES
The accompanying planting tables, together with the frost-zone maps
(figs. 9 and 10), are based upon records of the United States Weather
Bureau covering a period of 20 years and are intended to serve as a
guide for determining the earliest dates that the various garden crops
may be planted in the spring; also the latest dates that it will be safe
to plant certain crops and have them mature before the first killing
frost in the autumn. It should be borne in mind that there is a
difference of several days in the frost occurrence within each zone;
this is due to differences in altitude and latitude, and also to the
proximity of bodies of water and large tracts of timber.
EARLIEST PLANTING DATES
_Earliest safe dates for planting vegetables in the open in the zones
shown in figure 9_
=============+=================+==================+=================+
Crop | Zone A | Zone B | Zone C |
-------------+-----------------+------------------+-----------------+
Bean{Lima |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to 15 |
{Snap |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to 30 |
Beet |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1 |Mar. 1 to 15 |
Brussels | | | |
sprouts | do. | do. | do. |
Cabbage |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Jan. 15 to Feb. 15|Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
Carrot |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1 |Mar. 1 to 15 |
Cauliflower | do. | do. | do. |
Celery | do. | do. | do. |
Chard | do. | do. | do. |
Collard |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
Corn, sweet |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|Mar. 1 to 15. |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1|
Cucumber |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to 15 |
Eggplant | do. | do. | do. |
Kale |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
Kohl-rabi |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1 |Mar. 1 to 15 |
Lettuce{Head | do. | do. | do. |
{Leaf |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
Melons |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to 15 |
Okra, or | | | |
gumbo |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|Mar. 1 to Mar. 15 |Mar. 15 to 30 |
Onion sets |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
Parsley |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1 |Mar. 1 to 15 |
Parsnip | do. | do. | do. |
Peas{Smooth |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
{Wrinkled|Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1 |Mar. 1 to 15 |
Peppers |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to 15 |
Pota-{Irish |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
toes {Sweet |Mar. 1 to 15. |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to 15. |
Pumpkin | do. | do. | do. |
Radish |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
Salsify |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1 |Mar. 1 to 15. |
Spinach | do. | do. | do. |
Squash |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to 15 |
Tomato | do. | do. | do. |
Turnip |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
-------------+-----------------+------------------+-----------------+
=============+==================+==================+=================+
Crop | Zone D | Zone E | Zone F |
-------------+------------------+------------------+-----------------+
Bean{Lima |May 1 to 15 |May 15 to June 1 |May 15 to June 15|
{Snap |Apr. 1 to May 1 |May 1 to 15 |May 15 to June 1 |
Beet |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to 15 |
Brussels | | | |
sprouts | do. | do. | do. |
Cabbage |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |
Carrot |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to 15 |
Cauliflower | do. | do. | do. |
Celery | do. | do. | do. |
Chard | do. | do. | do. |
Collard |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15| ... |
Corn, sweet |Apr. 1 to May 1 |Apr. 15 to May 15 |May 1 to June 1 |
Cucumber |Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to June 1 |May 15 to June 15|
Eggplant | do. | do. | do. |
Kale |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |
Kohl-rabi |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to May 1 |May 1 to 15 |
Lettuce{Head |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15| do. | do. |
{Leaf |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |
Melons |Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to June 1 |June 1 to 15 |
Okra, or | | | |
gumbo | do. |May 1 to 15 |May 15 to June 1 |
Onion sets |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 1 to May 1 |
Parsley |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to May 1 |May 1 to 15 |
Parsnip | do. | do. | do. |
Peas{Smooth |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |
{Wrinkled|Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to May 1 |May 1 to 15 |
Peppers |Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to June 1 |June 1 to 15 |
Pota-{Irish |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |
toes {Sweet |Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to June 1 |June 1 to 15 |
Pumpkin | do. | do. | do. |
Radish |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |
Salsify |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to 15 |
Spinach | do. | do. | do. |
Squash |Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to June 1 |June 1 to 15 |
Tomato | do. | do. |May 15 to June 15|
Turnip |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |
-------------+------------------+------------------+-----------------+
==============+==================
Crop | Zone G
--------------+------------------
Bean {Lima | ...
{Snap |May 15 to June 15.
Beet |May 15 to June 1.
Brussels |
sprouts | do.
Cabbage |May 1 to May 15.
Carrot |May 1 to June 1.
Cauliflower | do.
Celery | do.
Chard | do.
Collard | ...
Corn, sweet |May 15 to June 15.
Cucumber |June 1 to 15.
Eggplant | ...
Kale |May 1 to 15.
Kohl-rabi |May 15 to June 1.
Lettuce {Head | do.
{Leaf |May 1 to May 15.
Melons | ...
Okra, or gumbo| ...
Onion sets |May 1 to 15.
Parsley |May 15 to June 1.
Parsnip | do.
Peas {Smooth |May 1 to June 1.
{Wrinkled|May 15 to June 1.
Peppers | ...
Potatoes{Irish|May 1 to June 1.
{Sweet| ...
Pumpkin | ...
Radish |May 1 to 15.
Salsify |May 15 to June 1.
Spinach | do.
Squash | ...
Tomato |June 1 to 15.
Turnip |May 1 to 15.
--------------+------------------
Owing to the varied character of the Rocky Mountain and Pacific coast
regions, it is not practicable to present the planting information in
zone form, as there may be a very great difference in the dates of
killing frosts in the same general locality on account of elevation.
Gardeners on the Pacific coast should be guided by the experience of
competent persons in their own neighborhood. The coast region of Oregon
and Washington is so influenced by ocean currents that a separate map
would have to be designed to meet its requirements. Sufficient data upon
which to base a map for this region are not at hand.
In zones A, B, C, and parts of zone D of the eastern United States,
cabbage, turnips, spinach, kale, collards, and certain varieties of
onions may be grown in the open ground throughout the winter. In certain
parts of zone E spinach and kale may be grown all winter. In zone F such
crops as sweet potatoes, melons, eggplants, and peppers should be
planted only under the most favorable conditions, as the season is
sometimes too short for their full development under adverse conditions.
Garden plants are divided into about four more or less distinct groups.
Early cabbage plants, kale, onion sets, smooth peas, Irish potatoes, and
radishes may be planted two weeks before the average date of the last
killing frost.
Beets, Swiss chard, carrots, lettuce, wrinkled peas, cauliflower,
spinach, and sweet corn may be planted about the date of the last
killing frost.
LATEST PLANTING DATES
_Latest safe dates for planting vegetables for the fall garden in the
zones[9] shown in figure 9_
============+========+=======+========+========+=======
Crop | Zone C | Zone D| Zone E | Zone F |Zone G
------------+--------+-------+--------+--------+-------
Bean: | | | | |
Pole Lima |Sept. 15|Aug. 1 |July 15 |July 1 | ...
Snap | do. |Sept. 1|Aug. 15 |Aug. 1 |July 15
Beet | do. | do. | do. | do. | do.
Cabbage |Sept. 1 |Aug. 15|July 15 |July 1 |June 15
Carrot | do. | do. | do. | do. | do.
Cauliflower | do. | do. | do. | do. | do.
Celery |Oct. 1 |Sept. 1|Aug. 1 | do. |May 15
Chard, Swiss|Sept. 15| do. |Aug. 15 |Aug. 1 |July 15
Corn, sweet |Aug. 15 |Aug. 1 |July 15 |July 1 |June 15
Cucumber | do. | do. | do. | do. | ...
Eggplant |July 15 |July 1 |June 15 |June 1 | ...
Kale |Nov. 1 |Oct. 1 |Sept. 15|Sept. 1 |Aug. 15
Lettuce | do. |Oct. 15|Oct. 1 |Sept. 15|Sept. 1
Melons: | | | | |
Muskmelon |June 15 |June 1 |May 15 |May 1 | ...
Watermelon|July 1 |July 1 |June 15 | ... | ...
Okra |July 15 | do. | do. |June 1 | ...
Onion sets | do. | do. | do. | do. |May 15
Parsley |Nov. 1 |Oct. 1 |Sept. 1 |Aug. 1 |July 1
Parsnip | ... | ... |May 15 |May 1 |Apr. 15
Pea |Nov. 1 |Oct. 1 |Sept. 1 |Aug. 1 |July 15
Peppers |July 15 |July 1 |June 15 |June 1 | ...
Potatoes: | | | | |
Irish |Aug. 15 |Aug. 1 |July 15 |July 1 |June 15
Sweet | do. |July 15|June 15 |May 1 | ...
Radish |Oct. 15 |Oct. 1 |Sept. 15|Sept. 1 |Aug. 15
Salsify |June 15 |June 1 |May 15 |May 1 |Apr. 15
Spinach |Oct. 5 |Oct. 1 |Sept. 1 |Aug. 15 |Aug. 1
Squash: | | | | |
Bush |Aug. 15 |Aug.1 |July 15 |July 1 |June 15
Vine |July 15 |July 1 |June 15 |June 1 | ...
Tomato |Aug. 15 |July 15|July 1 |June 15 | ...
Turnip |Oct. 15 |Oct. 1 |Sept. 1 |Aug. 1 |July 15
------------+--------+-------+--------+--------+-------
[9] Zones A and B are sections in which many vegetables are planted
late in the fall to form the winter garden or early spring garden.
Beans, parsnips, salsify, melons, cucumbers, tomato, and sweet-potato
plants may be planted after the last killing frost.
The heat-loving plants, such as peppers, eggplants, Lima beans, and the
squashes, should not be planted in the open until the ground has
thoroughly warmed, which will be about four weeks after the last killing
frost.
There are a number of crops, such as snap beans, lettuce, radishes, and
beets, that should be planted at intervals in order to insure a
continuous supply throughout the season. In the case of snap beans as
many as five different plantings may be had in some sections. In the
southern part of the United States special attention should be given to
the planting of the semihardy crops, such as spinach, kale, and cabbage,
during the autumn, in order to have a supply throughout the winter.
[Illustration: Fig. 9.--Outline map of the United States, showing zones
based on the average date of the last killing frost in spring. The time
of planting for the various vegetables is determined for every section
by the dates given on this map.]
By following the table showing the latest safe dates for planting (see
also fig. 10), the various crops will mature during average years;
however, there may be seasons when the first killing frost in the autumn
occurs earlier than usual and some of the later plantings will be lost.
The late planting of vegetables prolongs the season of usefulness and is
worth a chance.
GENERAL CARE OF THE GARDEN
A garden bears close acquaintance, and the successful gardener is the
one who keeps in close contact with his crops throughout the entire
growing season. A visit to the garden during the early morning while the
dew hangs heavily upon every plant will reveal the happenings of the
night. Perhaps some insect attack has started or some injury has
occurred which requires immediate attention. A garden requires a little
attention almost every day and responds in direct proportion to the care
bestowed upon it. The size of the garden should be such that its care
will not prove a burden. A small garden intensively cultivated is much
better than a larger one which is allowed to grow to weeds.
_Holding Moisture_
The frequent stirring of the surface soil with a steel rake, especially
during dry weather, will stimulate the growth of the crops and control
weeds. The surface should also be stirred after a rain just as soon as
the ground is dry enough to work. Most people have an idea that the
stirring of the soil is primarily in order to kill weeds, but there is
equal need of it where no weeds are present. The roots of plants require
air as well as moisture, and frequent stirring of the surface soil
admits the air and at the same time conserves moisture. Shallow
cultivation during dry weather forms what is known as a soil mulch,
preventing the escape of moisture. Very often shallow cultivation during
dry weather is more effective than irrigation.
[Illustration: Fig. 10.--Outline map of the United States, showing zones
based on the average date of the first killing frost in autumn. The
latest safe dates for planting vegetables in the autumn are determined
by the dates given on this map.]
_Watering_
Artificial watering, if properly applied, will prove a decided advantage
during dry periods, but may prove an injury if not properly handled.
Frequent light sprinkling of the garden is injurious. The proper method
is to soak the soil thoroughly about once each week, preferably during
the evening, and then loosen the surface by cultivation the following
morning or as soon as the soil is dry enough to work. No more water
should be applied until absolutely necessary; then another soaking
should be given. On a small scale the water may be applied by means of a
sprinkling can. Where available, a garden hose is effective, and
overhead sprinkler systems are frequently employed to advantage. Perhaps
the best method for applying the water is to open slight furrows
alongside the rows of plants and allow the water to flow gently along
these furrows.
After the water has all soaked into the soil the wet earth in the
furrows should be covered with dry soil, to prevent baking. Where seeds
are to be sown during a period of drought a slight furrow may be opened
and filled with water; then, after the water has soaked into the soil,
the seeds may be sown and covered with dry earth. This method will
insure a good stand of plants, as the moisture feeds upward in the soil,
like the oil in a lamp wick.
_Diseases and Insects_
Garden crops are subject to attack by a number of insects and diseases.
Preventive measures are best, but if an attack occurs and the city
gardener is not familiar with the insect or disease and the proper
treatment to protect his crops he is advised to consult the local garden
leader or write immediately to the Extension Division of the State
College of Agriculture. The United States Department of Agriculture has
a bulletin (Farmers’ Bulletin 856) which gives the necessary information
on garden insects and diseases and can be procured free upon request.
In a number of cities the garden committees have arranged for sprayers
and spray materials, and these are furnished to gardeners at actual
cost. In a few instances power sprayers have been used, the work being
done by city-park employees, the outfit being driven through the
alleyways and the gardens reached by means of long leads of hose. In
many cases the city-garden committees have provided a number of small
compressed-air sprayers that can be carried by means of a strap over the
shoulder of the operator. These are lent to the gardeners, who are also
supplied with the necessary spray materials at cost and given full
instructions regarding their application.
Poisons may be applied in a powdered form to a number of the garden
crops, including Irish potatoes, by means of a small burlap or
cheesecloth bag, the poison being dusted upon the plants when they have
dew upon them. This can be done in the morning before the plants have
dried or late in the evening after the dew has begun to form.
CROPS FOR THE CITY HOME GARDEN
As a rule not more than 10 or 12 different kinds of vegetables should be
grown in the city home garden. These should be chosen from the
standpoint of securing the greatest food value from a limited area.
Certain of the very important food crops, such as Irish potatoes, peas,
and sweet corn, require too much space for the small city garden, but
should be included wherever the available space will permit.
Owing to the extreme variation of local conditions, no definite plan can
be given for the city home garden, and each gardener will have to select
the crops to be grown according to his soil, space, and the requirements
of his family. By careful planning and by keeping every foot of garden
space fully occupied a great quantity of produce can be secured from a
comparatively small plat of ground. A succession of plantings of certain
vegetables will produce a continuous supply while others may be grown
between the main crops, thus making the land do double duty. There is a
tendency on the part of many persons to plant too heavily to lettuce and
radishes. As a matter of fact a supply of these vegetables can be grown
in the rows between the plants or hills of other crops. Most beginners
attempt too many varieties and kinds of vegetables. They would do better
to confine themselves to a few standard sorts, leaving the novelties to
those who have plenty of land and time at their disposal.
It is assumed that the average space available for the city vegetable
garden will not exceed 80 by 60 feet. Many gardens in back yards are
smaller, while others located on vacant lots may include one-fourth acre
or more. The size of the garden will determine largely the crops to be
grown. The following cultural directions are based on average conditions
and are subject to some modification to suit the locality.
_Beans_
The bean crop stands at the head of the list in importance for the city
garden, especially from the standpoint of producing a large quantity of
food quickly on a limited space. The food value of the bean, in all
forms, is also very high, and it may be grown under a wide range of
conditions.
String beans, or snap beans in bush form, are the most popular for
planting in the small garden. The seed should not be planted until the
ground is fairly warm and the danger of frost safely passed. Stringless
Green-Pod, Currie’s Rustproof Wax, and Refugee Wax are the leading early
varieties of bush beans. Where space is limited the bush varieties can
be planted in rows 24 inches apart, with the individual plants 3 or 4
inches apart in the row, or in hills 12 inches apart with four plants in
a hill. Three, or even four, plantings at intervals of three or four
weeks should be made, in order to insure a continuous supply. In
sections of the country where the first autumn frost does not occur
until about the first of October a late or fall crop of snap beans can
be grown to advantage, the seed being planted about the first week in
August.
A half pint of seed of snap beans will plant about 100 feet of row with
five seeds to a hill and the hills 12 inches apart. A hundred feet of
row will be sufficient for one planting to supply the average family. If
four plantings are made 1 quart of seed will be required.
Pole or climbing beans should be planted in every garden where space
will permit. The variety known as Kentucky Wonder produces a plentiful
supply that can be eaten pod and all while they are tender, as shelled
beans when more mature, and as dry beans after they ripen. Pole or
climbing Lima beans are adapted to a wide range of territory and can
often be grown on a division fence, on a trellis covering the kitchen
porch, or on an outbuilding. Figure 11 shows a street fence which is
being made to support a splendid crop of Lima beans. Bush Lima beans are
more limited in their soil and climatic requirements, but are considered
by many persons to be of finer quality than the pole varieties.
Lima beans require a richer soil than string or snap beans, and the seed
should not be planted until the ground is quite warm, fully a week later
than snap beans. All beans should be planted comparatively shallow,
especially on clay or heavy soils. On light or sandy soils beans may be
covered from 1¹⁄₄ to 2 inches. Beans will not start well if planted in
wet soil or if covered too deeply.
In case the soil should become packed by heavy rains before the plants
appear it is a good plan to break the crust over the row by means of a
steel rake, great care being taken that the rake teeth do not go deep
enough to injure the sprouting beans. Beans should be cultivated and
hoed at least once a week, but they should not be worked when their
leaves are wet with dew or rain, as this has a tendency to cause them to
rust. In case more beans are grown than are required for summer use, the
young tender pods may be canned for winter. Any beans that become too
old for immediate use should be allowed to ripen and be saved for
planting the next season or for cooking as dry beans. Colored dry beans
are as good as white, both in flavor and nutritive value, in spite of a
rather general popular belief to the contrary, and none of them should
be wasted.
_Root Crops_
The root crops, including beets, carrots, parsnips, salsify, turnips,
and radishes, form a group of very important food crops for the small
garden. The soil requirements and general culture are very much the same
for all the root crops, and for that reason they are considered
collectively. The soil for root crops should be quite rich, and it
should also be spaded or plowed deep and made fine and mellow the full
depth that is broken. These root crops will all withstand slight frosts
and may be planted very early in the spring. Root crops are especially
desirable for the small garden on account of the fact that the rows may
be as close together as 12 or 14 inches and the plants 3 or 4 inches
apart in the row, making it possible to grow a large quantity of food on
a small tract.
_Beets_
An ounce of beet seed will be sufficient for the ordinary city garden.
Beets may be planted almost as soon as the ground can be worked in the
spring. Make the soil fine and mellow; then lay off the row about 1 inch
deep, using the hoe handle to make the little furrow. What are commonly
called beet seeds are really seed balls, each containing two or three
seeds, and for that reason too many should not be put in. Eight or ten
to the foot of row are sufficient. Cover the seeds about 1 inch and rake
the surface smooth over the row. If the seeds are good and the weather
favorable the plants should appear in about 10 days after planting. They
should be thinned to about 3 inches in the row, but if not too thick to
start with they may be allowed to reach a height of about 3 or 4 inches
before thinning, and the thinnings may be used for beet greens. Any
skips or spaces can be filled in by transplanting plants that are
removed from other parts of the row. A row 50 feet long will furnish
enough early beets to supply the ordinary family. A second planting may
be made about four week after the first. A late planting should be made
about six or eight weeks before the first autumn frosts. Any beets that
are left in the garden at the end of the season should be stored for
winter use.
[Illustration: Fig. 11.--Lima beans growing on the outside of a garden
fence.]
Crosby’s Egyptian and Blood Turnip are considered among the best
varieties for the home garden.
_Carrots_
One-fourth ounce of carrot seed will be more than enough to plant 50
feet of row early in the spring and to make another similar planting
later for fall use and storage. Plant the seeds rather thickly, 20 or 30
to the foot, and cover them with about half an inch of light soil, but
not more than one-fourth of an inch in heavy soil. Thin to 2 or 2¹⁄₂
inches in the row as soon as they are large enough to handle. If
desired, the plants may be left a little closer, then thinned a second
time when the first of the young carrots are about half an inch in
diameter. The young carrots that are thinned out may be used on the
table as creamed baby carrots and are very fine. Late-planted carrots
may remain in the ground until after the first frosts of autumn and then
dug, topped, and stored for winter use.
Oxheart and Danvers Half-Long are leading varieties.
_Parsnips_
A 10-cent packet, or about one-eighth of an ounce, of parsnip seed will
be sufficient to plant for the ordinary family. Be sure that the seed is
fresh, as it loses its vitality if kept over until the second year.
Plant the same as carrots, and thin to 3 or 4 inches in the row.
Parsnips require a deeply prepared and a very rich soil for their best
development.
Parsnips may remain in the ground where grown during the winter or until
wanted. It may be best, however, to dig part of the roots late in the
fall before the ground freezes and store them for winter use.
In the North parsnips are planted quite early and given the entire
season to develop and are used mainly during the winter and spring. In
the South they may be planted quite early and used as a spring
vegetable; then another planting is made for a fall crop. The later
planting is usually made in August or September, when the late summer
rains occur.
Hollow Crown and Guernsey are among the best varieties.
_Salsify, or Vegetable Oyster_
Salsify requires practically the same cultural treatment as parsnips. It
is not grown extensively in the home gardens of the Southern States, but
is primarily a northern crop. Salsify may remain in the ground during
the winter, or a part may be dug late in the fall and stored in a bed or
box of moist sand for winter use.
The Sandwich Island is the leading variety.
_Turnips_
Throughout the Northern States turnips are planted as a late-season
crop, the seed being sown from July 10 to 25 and the crop harvested
after the first heavy frosts. In the Southern States turnips are planted
in the spring, just as soon as the ground can be worked, and the crop is
used before the hot weather of summer comes on. A late crop is
frequently planted in September, the roots being cooked in the usual
manner, while the young tender tops are boiled as greens.
For the small garden, turnips had best be planted in drills, with the
rows about 12 inches apart, and the plants should be thinned to 2 or
2¹⁄₂ inches in the row. The seed should be scattered very thinly in the
drill and covered very lightly. The plants removed in thinning may be
used as greens. Turnips will withstand some frost, but their keeping
qualities are injured if allowed to freeze before pulling. If they
become frozen in the storage pit they should not be disturbed until the
weather warms and the frost gradually draws out of them. For best
results turnips should not actually freeze at any time.
The Purple-Top Strap-Leaved is a leading variety.
_Radishes_
Radishes are mentioned last in the list of root crops because they have
the least real food value of any. Everybody wants a few early radishes
in the garden, because they come to maturity quickly and furnish
something green and succulent for the table. From 10 to 20 feet of row
will produce all the radishes required by a family. The seeds should be
sown in a little furrow or drill, about 12 or 15 seeds to the foot, and
covered 1 inch. Radishes may also be sown thinly in the drill with
beets, carrots, or parsnips, as they come quickly and break the surface
for the other seedlings. The radishes should be pulled before they are
large enough to injure the regular crop.
The Scarlet Globe White-Tipped, French Breakfast, Icicle, Philadelphia
White Box, and Early Yellow Turnip are among the leading varieties.
Where it is desirable to have radishes for a considerable period of
time, two, or even three, plantings at intervals of two weeks should be
made, or the same result may be obtained by the proper selection of
varieties. There are also two or three varieties of winter radishes that
may be grown for winter use.
_Tomatoes_
Tomatoes are among the most universally used products of our home
gardens, and there should be a few plants, no matter how small the
garden. In order to have tomatoes early, the seed must be sown in the
house or hotbed or the plants purchased from some plant grower who has
the facilities for starting them early. Bonnie Best, Early Jewel, Acme,
Globe, and Detroit are among the leading early sorts, while Improved
Stone and Trophy are standard late varieties. Two small packets of
seeds, one of an early and one of a late variety, will produce enough
plants for several family gardens, and it may be possible for one person
to start the plants for an entire neighborhood. If a window box is used
for starting early plants of various kinds, a portion of the space in
this box should be used for the tomato plants. Where a window box is not
in use a cigar box filled with loose soil will serve as a seed bed, but
the plants will have to be transplanted and given about 3 inches of
space both ways as soon as they form one or two true leaves in addition
to their two small seed leaves. Tomato seed comes up in about five or
six days, and the seedlings will ordinarily be ready for transplanting
in two weeks after the seed is sown. About six weeks will be required
for growing the plants from the time of sowing the seed until they are
ready for setting in the garden.
A tray of fine, rich soil about 8 inches deep placed in a south window
of a living room makes a good transplanting bed. The plants can be grown
in quart berry boxes, in 3-inch flowerpots, in tin cans with a few holes
punched in their bottoms, or in paper bands. The essentials are to keep
the plants growing rapidly from the start and to retain all the dirt
attached to their roots when setting them in the garden.
The best method of growing tomatoes in the city home garden is by
pruning the plants to a single stem, or at most to two stems, and tying
them to stakes or a trellis, as shown in figure 12. By this method the
plants can be set as close as 2 feet apart in each direction. When tied
to stakes the plants are easy to cultivate. The fruit is clean because
it is kept off the ground, and the tomatoes ripen earlier than when the
plants are not pruned or tied to stakes. Any stakes that are about 1¹⁄₂
inches in diameter and 4 to 5 feet long will answer. Frequently the
plants are trained to horizontal wires stretched on small posts or to a
trellis made of laths.
The tomato plants are pruned by pinching out the side shoots (fig. 12)
as they appear in the axis of the leaf, that is, where it joins the main
stem. The fruit clusters appear on the opposite side of the stem where
there is no leaf. The plants are tied to the stakes or other support by
means of soft twine or with small strips of old cotton goods. (Fig. 13.)
Seedsmen have on sale a jute string which is especially made for tying
tomatoes. Loop the string around the stake so that it will not slip
downward on the stake and then tie loosely below a leaf node in such a
manner that the stem will be supported without the string binding it and
injuring its growth. Four to seven fruit clusters will be formed on each
plant, and if the plants are well cultivated and cared for they will
continue to bear fruit throughout the season in the northern parts of
the country. In the South, where the heat of midsummer kills tomato
plants, a late crop may be planted for fall use.
[Illustration: Fig. 12.--Training tomatoes to stakes: A, Cutting out the
side shoots or branches; B, tying the main stem to the supporting
stake.]
_Sweet Peppers_
Sweet or Mango peppers are increasing in favor with home gardeners
everywhere. Six or eight good plants will supply enough for an ordinary
family. In the North, where the growing season is short, the plants must
be started indoors and should be transplanted twice, so as to be quite
large by the time the weather is warm enough to set them in the garden.
Pepper plants will not withstand any frost, and they should not be set
out until all danger is past. In the South the seed should be sown in
the house or in a hotbed and may be transplanted directly from the seed
bed to the garden, although better plants will be obtained if they are
transplanted first from the seed bed to other boxes or to the hotbed and
later to the garden. The plants should be handled in the same manner as
tomatoes, but pepper plants are even more delicate.
The Ruby King and Chinese Giant are standard varieties of the large
sweet peppers. Pimento peppers are becoming very popular throughout the
Southern States; however, they will not mature where the frost-free
growing season is less than 4¹⁄₂ months and are not profitable unless
they have at least 5 months of warm weather for their development. The
pimento is adapted to the South, where the summers are long, with plenty
of hot weather. The green pimento peppers have a thick flesh and a
pleasant flavor and may be used like any sweet pepper. When red ripe the
pimentos are canned for winter salads and for mixing with cheese to make
pimento cheese.
[Illustration: Fig. 13.--Tomatoes trained to stakes in a back-yard
garden.]
_Eggplant_