_Journey from Boston to Albany, by way of Worcester and
Northampton.-- Sojourn there, from the 8th to the 14th of
August, 1825._
Accompanied by Mr. Tromp, who had become endeared to me by his
knowledge, his modest, honourable, and amiable deportment, I left Boston
on the 9th of August, for Worcester, distant forty miles. The
mail-coach, like the diligence stage, consists of a long calash with
three benches, each capable of containing three persons. The top is
fixed, though the curtains can be rolled up, so that a person may enjoy
the fresh air and the prospect of the surrounding country, without being
exposed to the sun.
We left the hospitable city of Boston with grateful hearts, and rode
over the Mill-dam into the interior of the country. The horses were
changed four times, generally in small villages; Farmingham and
Westborough appeared to be the only ones of any importance. The country
sometimes seemed wild, and but thinly settled, though the state of
Massachusetts is said to be the most populous in North America. We saw
no grain,[I-8] though in some places we observed Indian corn, and now
and then some millet. Apple orchards were abundant--the trees hung so
full of fruit that many of the boughs were broken. The apples are small
and yellow, and are employed in preparing the favourite beverage called
cider. We gradually approached forests, consisting of oak, chesnut, and
elm trees. Sumach also occurs in some places, the bark of which is said
to be excellent for tanning leather. There are evidently no forest
regulations here, and the timber is very much neglected. The road was
for the greatest part a good turnpike, and made in the German manner. We
crossed several small rivers and rivulets on wooden bridges, which are
very slight, though they are built with a great waste of timber. The
planks are not even nailed upon the beams, so that I began to be
somewhat fearful, especially as the carriage drove rapidly over. About
two miles from Worcester we crossed a lake called Guansiganog-pond, on a
wooden bridge one-fourth of a mile in length. The banks of this lake are
covered with wood, and present a very handsome appearance. On our way,
we were overtaken by a considerable thunder-storm, which settled the
dust, and procured us a pleasant evening. We arrived at Worcester about
7 o’clock, and alighted at an excellent tavern. This town contains about
four thousand inhabitants, and consists of a principal street, with an
avenue shaded with old elm trees, and of several bye-streets, which,
like the preceding, are altogether unpaved. The houses, generally built
of wood, and but few of brick, are all surrounded with gardens, and
stand at a considerable distance from each other, so that the town
appears like a village. It has four churches, a bank, and three
printing-offices, each of which furnishes a newspaper. There are also
printing-offices in many of the villages through which we passed, as
well as a fire-engine in each. In the evening we paid a visit to the
governor of Massachusetts, Mr. Levi Lincoln, who resides at this place.
We found this worthy man, who is universally esteemed by his
fellow-citizens, at home with his wife and sister-in-law, and were
received by him in the most friendly manner. We spent a very agreeable
evening in his company. A proof of the public esteem which he enjoys,
is, that at the last election, there was not a single vote against him,
an example almost unparalleled in the United States. The governor is
styled “his excellency.” On the following morning the governor conducted
us to a recently established museum, which is designed chiefly for the
collection of American antiquities. It is yet in its infancy, and
contains but few interesting specimens; the library also is of small
extent, notwithstanding we must render full justice to the inhabitants
for their laudable zeal in the cause of natural science. We rode around
the town in company with the governor, passed the court-house and
prison, which unfortunately we had not time to visit, and returned to
our inn. The gardens we passed had rather a wild appearance. They
cultivate kitchen vegetables, a few watermelons, and fruit; we saw no
flowers excepting the sunflower.
[Footnote I-8: [The harvest having occurred in July.]--TRANS.]
At 10 o’clock we departed in the Worcester stage for Northampton,
distant forty-seven miles. Our company in the stage-coach consisted of
two gentlemen and ladies from the state of Mississippi, who had
undertaken a tour to the northern states on account of the unhealthy
climate in their own country, and who entertained us very agreeably with
an account of their estates. The road was worse than yesterday,
sometimes sandy, and the horses generally bad, so that on the whole, our
progress was slow. The country is less populous, as well as less
cultivated, though there is more timber, which, however, is also very
much neglected. We observed the cypress and a few large cedars. As there
are no grazing laws in force, they are obliged on account of the cattle,
and particularly on account of the sheep which graze in these woods at
large, to make fences of young chesnut trees which are split into four
pieces. These fences generally consist of six rails placed upon each
other, with an interspace of several inches. They are placed in an
angular form, and at the point where the rails meet, they are placed one
upon the other, and usually supported upon a large stone. Such a waste
of timber and land is only pardonable in a country where the inhabitants
are few, and where timber is abundant. A large extent of wood-land has
been cleared only within a short time, and the trunks of the trees which
remained have been destroyed by fire. The soil is not particularly
fertile. We observed numerous blocks of granite, which may be hereafter
usefully employed, the large for building, and the small upon the roads.
The villages which we passed on our way are Leicester, seven, Spencer,
five, Brookfield, seven, Ware, eight, Belchertown, nine, and Madley, ten
miles. They are most of them small places, consisting generally of frame
houses, standing at a distance from each other, which are very neat and
comfortable; each village has a frame church and a school-house. Stores
are observed in most of these places, and in Belchertown there is even a
fashionable one. The churches are usually provided with long sheds,
in which the carriages and horses of the members of the church are
protected from the heat and weather during the service. Ware, situated
on the river of the same name, which is crossed by a wooden bridge
rather better built than usual, was laid out about three years since;
it is a neat, flourishing place, and belongs to the Dexter family in
Boston, who have established a woollen and cotton manufactory here, the
workmen of which, above three hundred in number, form the inhabitants of
the place. Mr. Dexter, of Boston, had entrusted me with an important
packet of papers for his brother, who resides in Ware, which I delivered
in person. We found Mr. Dexter with his beautiful wife, at his neat and
well arranged cottage, situated in the centre of a garden, and received
a friendly welcome. From his window he can overlook the whole village
and manufactories. Heretofore, said Mr. Dexter, I have received the
greatest part of my wool from Saxony, which is preferred here to the
Spanish; but at present, we have sheep imported from Saxony, which are
permitted to roam at large through the wood, as there are no wild
animals in Massachusetts to destroy them; they yield a very superior
kind of wool. Unfortunately we were not at leisure to accept of Mr.
Dexter’s invitation to look at his establishments. At the tavern, which
was perfectly clean and comfortable, we obtained a very good dinner, and
continued our journey. The inhabitants of Ware are said to be
distinguished for their strict morality. They have a common school, to
which they are obliged by law to send their children, as is the case
throughout Massachusetts, or pay a fine. In Ware there is but one
physician, who has a handsome house, and keeps a well furnished
apothecary store. The strict republicans are jealous of the large
manufacturing establishments, because they are afraid that individual
citizens, in consequence of their property, may have too great an
influence upon a large mass of people; but I imagine that the republic
has nothing to fear on this head, since the effect of individual
influence is counterbalanced by the promotion of the welfare of the
poorer classes.
About a mile from Northampton we passed the Connecticut river, five
hundred yards wide, in a small ferry-boat, which, as the night had
already set in, was not very agreeable. At Northampton we took lodgings
at Warner’s Hotel, a large, clean, and convenient inn. In front of the
house is a large porch, and in the first story a large balcony. The
gentlemen sit below, and the ladies walk above. It is called a piazza,
and has many conveniences. Elm trees stand in front of the house, and a
large reflecting lamp illuminates the house and the yard. This, with the
beautiful warm evening, and the great number of people, who reposed on
the piazza, or went to and from the house, produced a very agreeable
effect. The people here are exceedingly religious, and, besides going to
church on Sundays, they go thrice during the week. When we arrived, the
service had just ended, and we saw some very handsome ladies come out of
the church. Each bed-chamber of our tavern was provided with a bible.
To-day I observed also a new mode of delivering letters and newspapers.
The driver of the mail-coach throws the letters and newspapers, with
which he is entrusted, before the houses where they are to be left; he
sometimes throws them even into open fields, along the lane leading from
the main road to the house.
About two years ago, Messrs. Cogswell and Bancroft established a
boarding-school at Northampton. The day after our arrival, 11th of
August, Mr. Cogswell paid me a visit, and introduced one of his
professors, Dr. Beck, of Heidelberg, a step-son of Dr. De Wette, of
Weimar, who teaches the Latin and Greek languages. Another German
professor, whom, however, I did not see, directs the gymnastic
exercises. Both these gentlemen conducted us to the institute, which is
situated on Round Hill, about a mile from Northampton.
Northampton contains about four thousand inhabitants, and its buildings
are, apparently, very much like those of Worcester; it has one bank,
a court-house, prison, and a printing-office. From Mr. Cogswell’s
institute, you have a magnificent view of the fertile and
well-cultivated valley of the Connecticut river, which, in this place,
winds between two lofty mountains, Holyoake and Mounttoby. On the left,
the lofty mountains of New Hampshire present a beautiful prospect. In
1824, this institution had but forty pupils, and in 1825, it numbered no
less than seventy-four, so that Mr. Cogswell is obliged, although he has
three large houses belonging to his establishment, to erect a fourth and
larger one. The gymnastic exercises, for which a place is provided in
the woods, with the necessary apparatus, form a principal part of the
instructions of this seminary. The boys are entirely excluded from the
world; but that they may not become too much estranged, Mr. Cogswell
accompanies them annually in various pedestrian tours through the
surrounding country. I visited Mr. Bancroft at his room. Both these
gentlemen entertain the warmest enthusiasm for Germany and the German
method of instruction, and are determined to regulate every thing
according to that system. Mr. Bates, a lawyer introduced to us by Mr.
Cogswell, returned with us to town, and showed us the church,
court-house, and a collection of minerals, in the possession of Dr.
Hunt, in which I admired particularly two specimens of American beryl
and several specimens of rock-crystal. On our return to the tavern,
I received a visit from a physician, Dr. Seeger, who was educated with
Schiller in the military school at Wirtemberg. He wished to become
acquainted with me on account of my father, for whom he expressed the
highest veneration. I must acknowledge, that, in a country so far from
my native land, this afforded me the most sincere gratification, and my
acquaintance with the worthy Dr. Seeger, who has been an inhabitant of
the United States during the last forty years, and who is universally
esteemed as an honest man and a good physician, I shall always remember
with pleasure and satisfaction.
At Springfield, twenty miles from Northampton down the Connecticut
river, is the government armoury. We left Northampton, to visit this
establishment, under the most oppressive heat, with five ladies and two
gentlemen in the stage-coach, into which we were crowded, somewhat like
those that were shut up in the Trojan horse. We arrived about 3 o’clock
in the afternoon, and again found an excellent tavern, which was
provided with a piazza. Our ride passed through a well-cultivated region
of country, along the right bank of the Connecticut river; Indian corn,
millet, and potatoes were observed in considerable abundance, in some
places we also observed hemp, and sometimes, though seldom, hops.
Springfield is situated on the left bank of the Connecticut river, over
which, close by the town, is a wooden bridge, five hundred yards long,
and built in a very awkward style. Springfield has much more the
appearance of a city than Worcester and Northampton, for there are at
least some stone houses situated so closely together that they form a
street. Colonel Lee had the goodness to take us in his carriage to the
manufactory of arms, of which he is the director. It is situated about a
mile from Springfield, in a very beautiful valley, on a rivulet. It
employs daily two hundred and seventy-four workmen. These are settled in
the vicinity of the manufactory, form a kind of colony, and have a
school for their children. They are also obliged to distinguish
themselves by their good moral deportment. The muskets for the American
army are made on the improved French model of 1777, with the exception
that they are somewhat shorter, while the bayonets are rather longer.
The barrels and bayonets are browned, as Dupin has described at full
length in Travels through Great Britain. We examined the works
throughout. There are several houses, and the machines are propelled by
water. They finish annually fifteen thousand muskets, each of which
costs the government on an average eleven dollars. How much might be
saved, if, as in other countries, muskets were made by private workmen!
The arsenal in which these muskets are preserved and packed in chests,
each containing twenty pieces, was destroyed by fire about a year and a
half since, but having been rebuilt, it consists at present of a centre
building for the offices, two isolated wings for the preservation of the
different arms, and of several other adjacent buildings for the
necessary workshops. These buildings form an oblong square, of which the
proper armoury forms one of the short sides; on the other, oppositely to
the centre building, is Colonel Lee’s neat and beautiful dwelling. The
houses belonging to the arsenal are built of brick externally, while
internally every thing is of wood; and as, during the winter season
these buildings are heated with wood, there appeared to me to be much
danger of fire. I remarked this to Colonel Lee, who appeared to
participate in my apprehensions. After our return to the tavern, Mr.
Calhoun, with whom we had become acquainted through Mr. Bates,
introduced us to several gentlemen of the town, and took us in the
evening to a musical party at the house of a Mr. Dwight, where we found
the fashionable part of society assembled. The ladies sang very well,
and played on the piano-forte several pieces from “Der Freischutz,”
an opera which is at present a favourite in America.
We had determined to go on the 12th of August to New Lebanon, to visit
the Springs and the Shaker’s village, but the Fates had decreed
otherwise. We left Springfield at two o’clock in the morning in the
stage, rode over the bridge, through Westfield, which, as far as we
could judge in the dark, is a handsome village, and arrived at day break
in a romantic valley, on Westfield river, whose waters fall over huge
rocks. At Russel, which is situated in an uncultivated valley, seventeen
miles from Springfield, we partook of an excellent breakfast at the
stage-office, and were much pleased at the clean and comfortable
appearance of the houses and inhabitants. It was so cold early in the
morning, that a large fire which we found at this house, was quite
comfortable. The road through the wild romantic valley, generally
ascending, and along the river, was rather bad, and often very narrow;
instead of a railing, there were only trunks of large trees, which were
permitted to decay in a very unjustifiable manner. The bridges also were
as badly built as those of which we have already complained. The forest
trees were very handsome, but many of them are destroyed for the cabins
of the new settlers. These dwellings, like the log-houses, are built of
the trunks of large trees. Amongst the few settlers whom we observed
there, were several negro and mulatto families. The villages of Chester,
Bucket, and Lee, through which we passed, consist of but few houses;
Lee, however, appears to be a flourishing village. At this place we left
the mountains, and again entered upon a better cultivated region, in
which we observed stubbles of wheat and rye.
Exceedingly fatigued in consequence of the great heat, and the number of
passengers in the stage-coach, I was anxious to procure a carriage in
order to visit New Lebanon, distant fourteen miles; but the person of
whom I inquired was so extortionate as to ask ten dollars. I determined,
in order to avoid a new yankee trick, to prosecute my journey in the
stage-coach, direct for Albany. At Canaan, thirteen miles distant, we
left the state of Massachusetts, and entered that of New York. The other
villages which we passed after our departure from Canaan, were Chatham,
six miles, Nassau, or Union Village, four miles, and Schoodie, five
miles. The distance from Springfield to Albany is eighty-one miles. The
above villages have a neat and comfortable appearance, and the fields
were in a good state of cultivation. Upon our arrival at Schoodie the
night was just setting in, but unfortunately we were lighted by a
burning house upon an eminence not far off. At the village of Greenbush,
near Albany, we crossed the Hudson or North river in a horse-boat, and
upon our arrival in the city took lodgings at Cruttenden’s
boarding-house, on an eminence near the capitol or state-house.
Albany contains about fifteen thousand inhabitants. It is situated upon
the right bank of the Hudson, and extends westward upon an eminence.
It was built by the Dutch in 1614, under the name of Fort Orange, and
received its present name after it came into the possession of the
English, in honour of the afterwards unfortunate King James II. who was
then duke of York and Albany. Some of the Dutch houses are still
standing, and several of the streets retain their original names.
At the tavern we met with a Mr. Jackson, from New York, who had arrived
at the same time, and who was accompanied by his sister and his son,
Columbus, a sensible lad about ten years of age. Mr. J. is a teacher. In
consequence of the vicinity to the Ballston, Saratoga, and New Lebanon
springs, and the fashionable season, the hotel was so full of strangers,
that I was obliged to sleep with Mr. Tromp, in a small chamber. On the
following morning, at the public breakfast, I again met with Mr. Jackson
and Columbus, and as he was acquainted in Albany, I accepted of his
invitation to take a walk through the city. It is old and in some parts
appears to be in a state of decay. During the late war with England it
was in a quite flourishing state; but since the peace it has suffered
considerably, in consequence of some heavy failures and a great fire.
Albany has received a new impulse, an increase of commerce, and expects
to reap the most happy results from the Erie Canal, which has been
lately established, and which commences here, and runs a distance of
three hundred and sixty-two miles to Lake Erie, as well as from the
canal from Lake Champlain. The pavements were so bad that I was obliged
to complain immediately upon our arrival, and this I was subsequently
forced to repeat; the streets were also very crooked. We visited several
bookstores, which appeared to be well furnished, and then took a walk to
the new basin, into which the canal empties. It is separated from the
Hudson by a dam which runs parallel with the river, and is four thousand
feet long, from three to four hundred wide, and ten feet deep. The dam
is built of strong rafters, which form its two walls, the intervals of
which are filled up with earth and stone. It is connected with the bank
of the river by several high wooden bridges, in the centre of which
there are drawbridges for the passage of boats. The building of this dam
cost one hundred and thirty thousand dollars. It was divided into lots,
and sold separately, on condition that store-houses should be erected
upon it: in consequence of this they have realized the sum of one
hundred and ninety thousand dollars. In my opinion, the managers of the
canal, at whose expense the basin and the two canals have been built,
would have done better, if they had kept the dam and rented it. Being
built of wood, which is more or less subject to decay, as they are to
erect nothing but store-houses upon it, it is to be feared that in the
course of ten years it will tumble down in consequence of the pressure,
or that they will be obliged to repair it in great measure, or perhaps
completely rebuild it with stone. As stone is very cheap here, and sawed
in the prisons, they should have originally built the dam of stone. The
present one seems to me to have been but badly executed. In the basin we
saw a travelling bookstore in one of the canal-boats. Mr. Wilcox, who
established it about two years ago on the Erie Canal, travels backwards
and forwards several times a year, and is said to do considerable
business. He had just returned to get a new assortment of books. Most of
the books which he sells at the villages in the neighbourhood of the
canal are ancient authors, some medical and religious, and a few law
books and novels. This gentleman, formerly a merchant in Albany,
entirely supports his family, who reside with him in his boat, by this
fortunate speculation. I purchased of him an excellent map of the state
of New York.
A few hours after, we visited some of the steam-boats which ply between
Albany and New York. The largest, called the Car of Commerce, is
provided with excellent apartments, and makes her trip in nineteen
hours. This vessel is extremely elegant, but my friend Tromp is of
opinion that the English steam-boats are superior in machinery. In fact,
in this country, the American steam-engines are not celebrated for the
safety of their boilers; and several explosions which have occurred,
serve to increase this evil report. From this reason, as well as on
account of the disagreeable motion of the steam-engine, many persons
were unwilling to risk their lives, so that they have attached a
safety-barge to one of the steam-boats. This is a real floating hotel,
furnished with the greatest luxury. In the ladies cabin there are even
silk curtains. Besides this, the ladies have a separate toilette and
parlour. The gentlemen assemble in the dining room. The whole boat is
surrounded by a piazza, which, in warm weather, must be extremely
pleasant. The name of this safety-barge which carries passengers at four
dollars, is Lady Clinton, in honour of the wife of the governor of New
York, De Witt Clinton. We also visited the Constellation, another
beautiful steam-boat, which has no safety-barge. There are also
steam-boats for the purpose of towing the common sloops, &c. up and down
the river, called steam-tow-boats.
Finally, we examined the horse ferry-boats. These boats consist of two
vessels joined together, have a common deck, and are of an elliptical
form. Upon the centre of the deck is a round house, in which six horses
work, turning a horizontal, which moves two common wheels between the
boats, provided with paddles, as in the steam-boats. The carriage, and
twenty-two two-horse carts crossed at the same time, standing on both
sides of the round house. There are two rudders, one at the stern, the
other at the bow.
The trade in timber and boards is one of the capital branches of
internal trade. We saw a great quantity of both on the wharves, and at
the dam. At dinner we became acquainted with the Spanish consul of
Boston, a worthy young man, who was educated in France. After dinner we
took a view of the capitol, or state-house, situated upon a small
eminence, and at a short distance from our inn. Albany is the seat of
government and the capitol of the state of New York, but it is said to
be the intention of the inhabitants shortly to remove the seat of
government to Utica, which is situated farther to the west, and in a
more central part of the state. The capitol is built of brown
sand-stone, and in a quadrangular form; in front it is ornamented with
large steps, and four Ionic columns of white marble. The halls of the
different branches of the legislature are spacious, but exhibit nothing
remarkable. In one of the halls is a full length portrait of Washington,
and in another, that of the late Governor Clinton, an uncle of the
present governor.[I-9] On the top of the capitol is a cupola, from which
there is a beautiful view of the city of Albany, and the valley of the
Hudson, which is bounded on the right by the Catskill mountains, and on
the left by the mountains of Vermont. On the dome is a wooden statue
representing justice, to the back of which is secured a heavy
lightning-rod, so that witlings remark that she is standing in the
pillory.
[Footnote I-9: [Recently deceased.]--TRANS.]
At Albany are some remains of the feudal system. The Van Rensselaer
family, one of the oldest of the Dutch emigrants, obtained the country
around Albany at the time it was first settled, as a fief; it was
divided into different portions, and some of these were leased to
vassals who were obliged to pay a certain rent, and to render certain
services to the owner. The eldest of the Van Rensselaer family has
always borne the title of _patroon_, and enjoys certain feudal
prerogatives, for which the family are indebted to the great popularity
they have enjoyed ever since the revolution, though every recollection
of the feudal system is repugnant to the genius of the American
government. By the people in the neighbourhood, the house of the old
General Van Rensselaer is always called the _manor of the patroon_.