_Boston._
On our arrival in Boston we took lodgings at the Exchange Coffee-house,
where I received a visit from Mr. Andrew Ritchie, whose acquaintance I
made in England two years ago. I was much pleased to see this worthy man
again, who eighteen months since married the daughter of Mr. Otis,
formerly a senator of the United States and leader of the federal party;
both these gentlemen are highly esteemed here. I dined at the inn at two
o’clock, according to the custom of the place; my seat was at the head
of the table, by the side of the host, Mr. Hamilton. He had served in
the last war as a volunteer colonel, and still retained his title. He
exhibited much politeness, and indeed I cannot sufficiently praise the
politeness of the guests, with many of whom I became acquainted. The
dishes were very good, and even had this not been the case I should
still have enjoyed them, having so long been without fresh provisions;
this was the case with the fruit, which though small and bad, was still
agreeable. On account of the excessive heat, which had been greater than
at any time during the last twenty years, fruit in general had matured
too early. Wine was served up in coolers with ice, and into every glass
of beer, a piece of ice was thrown.
Adjoining the large dining room is a parlour and two sitting rooms,
where strangers who have nothing to do pass the day. At a sideboard,
wine, lemonade, soda water, &c. with ice, may be obtained. Eight
newspapers were lying on a large table, all of which had the form of
English papers, and were chiefly filled with mercantile and other
advertisements. The house itself is arranged much like an English inn.
The servants of both colours were civil and attentive. At four o’clock,
Mr. Ritchie with his father-in-law, and the son of the latter, lately
returned from a tour in Europe, came to show us the city.
There are many elegant stores in Cornhill, one of the principal streets.
We saw a new building, intended as a branch of the United States Bank,
the front of which is plain, with two Doric columns, each consisting of
a single piece of granite, eighteen feet high, and almost five feet in
diameter. The first popular assemblies at the commencement of the
American revolution, were held in the old court-house. A large hall, in
which the aldermen meet, contains a full length portrait of WASHINGTON,
by Stuart, and also a bust of ADAMS, father of the present president.
The bust is encircled by a wreath of stars. The names of all the
citizens who distinguished themselves by great services during the
revolution, are engraved on four columns. The beef and vegetable markets
are under the court-house; but as this place was justly considered
unsuitable for such a purpose, a new market was built not far from the
water. The corporation began to fill up a ditch, and erect upon it a
long building, the foundation of which is granite, and the three stories
of brick, which was sold to the merchants as a warehouse. This sale was
made on such favourable terms, that from the profits a new market was
built, parallel with this warehouse, entirely of granite. It is five
hundred and twenty-five feet long, fifty feet wide, and one story high.
On the other side of this market, and parallel with it, a new row of
warehouses, similar to the former are building. Mr. Ritchie led us
through several wide and elegant streets to his house, one of the
largest in Boston, and situated on Beacon-hill, a public promenade. Many
frame houses are still to be observed; no new houses can be built of
wood. Most of them are of brick; granite, which is found in abundance
about twenty miles from Boston, is used frequently for foundations,
particularly for those of stores. The _mall_, as it is called, consists
of a large meadow, sparingly planted with trees, and extending down the
hill to the water. On the highest part of the hill stands the
state-house or capitol, with a large dome, covered with copper. The
building is of brick, decorated with a façade of ten columns. These are
of wood, and impart to the whole an air of weakness. Mr. Ritchie’s house
is furnished with much splendour and taste, and decorated by some
paintings which he obtained during his travels. Among these I remarked a
very successful copy of Madonna _della sedia_ of Raphael, another
Madonna of Sassoferrato, and a scene from the deluge of Poussin. We
spent the evening with Mr. Ritchie, and became acquainted with his lady,
and also with the widow of General Humphreys, adjutant of General
Washington, and formerly ambassador of the United States to Lisbon and
Madrid. Mrs. Humphreys is descended from an English family, was born in
Lisbon, and must have been very handsome in her youth. Mr. Otis and his
son were also present. When we departed at nine o’clock, it was still
very warm, and the full moon looked like a glowing coal in the heated
atmosphere. The Pallas arrived at Boston towards evening, and cast
anchor near Long-wharf. In passing she saluted Fort Independence with
seventeen guns, and was answered by eighteen.
I had imagined that no one would take the least notice of me in America,
but I soon found myself agreeably disappointed. The morning after my
arrival I received an invitation to dine the next day with Mr. Otis, and
was visited at the same time by several gentlemen. Captain Henderson and
Mr. Dixon, among others, called upon me; the latter introduced me to his
wife and his father-in-law, Mr. Homer. This gentleman inhabits a large
and handsome house on Beacon-hill, and has two amiable daughters. I was
much pleased with the arrangement of this house, and indeed the houses
and chambers in general are larger and better adapted for convenience
and ease than the English.
In company with Mr. Ritchie I paid a visit to Mrs. Humphreys, whose
house is really splendidly furnished. In the evening I visited Mr. De
Wallenstein, attached to the Russian embassy at Washington, who resides
here during the summer, on account of his health. He is an agreeable and
reflecting man. Afterwards I visited Mr. Edward Everett, professor of
the Greek language in Harvard University. Mr. Everett had previously
written me a German letter, and offered me his services in an extremely
friendly manner. He has passed five years in Europe, during two of which
he studied at Goettingen, and also visited Weimar. He remembered this
with much pleasure, and was particularly pleased with the acquaintance
of St. M. v. Goethe. Having been elected a member of congress he
resigned his professorship.
Mr. Everett called for me the next day to take me to Harvard University,
at Cambridge, three miles distant from Boston. At twelve o’clock we left
Boston, though the heat was extreme, and rode over the wooden bridge
which connects both towns, and is three thousand four hundred feet long.
Cambridge is by no means compactly built, but occupies a large extent of
ground. The houses are generally frame, a few of brick, and very few
entirely of granite; they are however painted with bright colours and
are very pleasing to the eye. Every house has a garden. Many meadows,
like those in England, are enclosed with three rails, lying one above
the other; Indian corn is cultivated in the fields; the grass was dry
and withered.
Harvard University, one of the oldest colleges in the United States, was
founded in 1638, by a clergyman named Harvard, who bequeathed it about
eight hundred pounds sterling. By means of bequests made since that
period, it has now a very large income. The state of Massachusetts
supplies the deficiencies without however making any fixed contribution.
The university has eight buildings, chiefly of brick, and only one of
granite. The Unitarian chapel is in the latter, in which, besides the
usual services on Sunday, morning and evening prayers are held, which
all the students must attend. In front of the buildings is a large
space, surrounded with trees, where the students may amuse themselves.
The students are about three hundred and fifty in number, and
principally board and lodge in the buildings of the university;
a number, however, who cannot find room, or are recommended to families,
live in private houses. They are in other respects, as in the
universities of England, subjected to a very rigid discipline. The
library, which occupies two halls, contains about eighteen thousand
volumes. It contains the first edition of the large work on Egypt;
a Polyglot bible from the collection of Lord Clarendon; a splendid
edition of the Lusiad, by Camoens, with plates from the designs of
Gerard, edited by the Marquis de Souza, and printed by Didot at Paris.
Only two hundred and fifty copies of this edition were printed, and this
copy was given to the university by the Marquis himself. Of manuscripts
I saw but few, and these were Greek, which Mr. Everett bought at
Constantinople during his travels, and another containing the aphorisms
of Hippocrates, which an English schoolmaster copied with so much skill,
that it appears to have been printed.[I-4] In the mathematical lecture
room I did not observe a very complete apparatus. They have also but few
astronomical instruments, and in one observatory there are none. A new
electrical machine with a glass globe had but lately arrived from
England. The mineralogical collection is under obligations to Mr.
Ritchie for most of its finest specimens, which he bought during his
travels at Dresden, and presented to the university. A piece of basalt
found under ground in this neighbourhood, bears some similarity to the
profile of a human face. It is not known whether it be a lusus naturæ or
the work of human hands. Does this belong to the remains of an earlier
race of men which has vanished from the earth, but which has, not
without reason, been supposed by many to have once existed? The other
natural collections were of slight importance; there are no collections
of insects and butterflies. I saw there also the antlers of two stags,
which had become so completely entangled in fighting, that they could
not be separated, and in this state they were killed. The chemical
laboratory is arranged in a separate house, strongly resembling a
chapel. The anatomical theatre has been removed for want of room, from
Cambridge to Boston. In the former lecture room, however, there are
still several handsome wax preparations made in Florence, among which
are two fine full length figures, male and female. The latter represents
a pregnant woman, and is separable. Near the chapel is the assembly room
of the academical senate, where there are some very handsome engravings.
I was surprised to find among these engravings the defence of Gibraltar,
by Elliot, and one which represented Admiral Dewinter taken prisoner by
Admiral Duncan. I gave the attendant who conducted us two dollars, and
he seemed to be so much gratified by my generosity, that when we were in
the chapel he whispered to the organist, who immediately played “God
save the king,” at which I was much surprised. We were escorted through
the botanic garden by Professor Nuttall, an Englishman, who has made
several scientific journeys in the western parts of the United States.
Among the green-house plants I observed a strelitzia, which had been
raised from seed in this country, and also a blooming and handsome Inua
gloriosa, and a Hedychium longifolium. The green-house and the garden
are both small; in the latter I remarked no extraordinary shrubs or
flowers, on the contrary, however, I saw many beetles, which were new to
me, with bright colours, and extremely beautiful butterflies. A son of
President Adams is one of the students of the university, and also Mr.
Jerome Bonaparte, a legitimate son of the former king of Westphalia, by
his marriage with Miss Patterson of Baltimore, which marriage, as is
well known, was dissolved by the Emperor Napoleon. This young man, who
is about twenty years old, bears an excellent character.
[Footnote I-4: [This manuscript is perhaps one of the most curious
specimens of calligraphy extant. Without the aid of a microscope
it is almost impossible to discover that it is not a printed work,
so extremely uniform and accurate is every letter. We believe it
was originally prepared for the celebrated Dr. Richard Meade of
London.]--TRANS.]
My acquaintances increased in number, and I received visits from many
distinguished men. Among those who paid me this honour on the third day
after my arrival, I must mention the Danish ambassador, Mr. Pedersen,
who was travelling with his family in the northern parts of the United
States, and was introduced to me by Mr. Ritchie; Mr. Josiah Quincy,
mayor of the city, was also present, a worthy and extremely agreeable
man, to whom I am under great obligations.
After the gentlemen had withdrawn, I visited the New England Museum,
a very pompous description of which had fallen into my hands. This
museum is a private establishment, and consists of a mixture of wax
figures, musical clocks, stuffed animals, portraits, French caricatures,
butterflies, &c. Two articles alone interested me, namely, two living
rattlesnakes, and three Egyptian mummies. The snakes, caught near Lake
Erie, were lying in a box covered with glass, and received no
nourishment but water. They are ugly creatures, of a dark gray colour,
with large sharp scales and yellow bellies. Large thick heads, prominent
black eyes, and forked tongues. One of them, which was engaged in
casting its skin, was for the time blind; it had four rattles, and was
receiving a fifth. The attendant irritated it, but we did not hear it
rattle. Spirit of hartshorn is said to be very effectual against their
bite. The mummies were brought last year in an American vessel from
Egypt. One was in the same condition in which it had been when in the
coffin, except that the cloth had been taken from the face. The two
others were more or less uncovered; their coffins were well preserved.
I was astonished to see the fresh colours of the figures painted on
them. One of the mummies had two coffins, whence it is inferred that she
was a person of high rank. I saw also a Chinese painting, representing
all the tortures and modes of death common in China; a shocking and
disgusting sight. Finally, I observed a good model of the old bastile of
Paris, made of a stone from this building.
The mayor, Mr. Quincy, had the politeness to show us the state prison.
This is situated in Charlestown, is of granite, and was built about
twenty years ago at the expense of the state of Massachusetts. It
consists of a centre building, containing the dwelling and offices of
the superintendant, as well as the watchroom, and of two wings, where
the prisoners are lodged. Behind the building is a large yard where the
prisoners work. It is enclosed by a high wall, with palisades, which is
guarded day and night by several sentinels. The prisoners are chiefly
employed in cutting and polishing blocks of granite, which are used in
Boston and its vicinity. The punishment of every prisoner who is
sufficiently robust, commences with this hard labour, which, however, is
changed if his conduct merits it, or if he exhibits abilities for some
other employment. As stone-cutter, a daily task is assigned to him,
which, if not finished, or badly done, is followed by solitary
confinement. If he performs more than his task, he is paid for the
surplus. Of this sum he can dispose as he pleases when discharged.
Newly-arrived prisoners, and those who have conducted themselves badly,
are dressed in green and blue, when, however, they conduct themselves
properly again, they are freed from this distinguishing habit. Other
prisoners work at various trades; supplying at the same time their
mutual wants, as shoes, &c. An engraver who was imprisoned for
counterfeiting Nova Scotia bank notes, worked in a separate room, and
engraved very neat maps. Four prisoners sleep in one cell, which are all
tolerably well ventilated, and every prisoner has his own hammock. Black
bread and soup constitute the food of the prisoners, who receive besides
for breakfast and supper, a portion of syrup and flour, forming a kind
of pudding. Besides the usual service on Sunday, they have prayers
daily.
A report of the state of the prison from September 30, 1823, to
September 30, 1824, which was published by the warden, Mr. Thomas
Harris, contains the following results:--
The whole number of prisoners from 1805 to September 30, 1824, was one
thousand eight hundred and sixteen; of these there were thirteen hundred
and three dismissed, after the period of their punishment had expired;
two hundred and ninety-eight were pardoned; fifteen escaped; one hundred
and two died; two hundred and ninety-eight remained; of the thirteen
hundred and three who were dismissed, two hundred and thirteen were a
second time in prison for new crimes, and among these two hundred and
thirteen there were twenty-four who had been pardoned.
On the 30th of September, 1823, there were three hundred and eight
prisoners; of these eighty were dismissed, ten pardoned, six died, and,
consequently, two hundred and twelve remained. To these eighty-six had
been added, so that the number of prisoners amounted, September 30th,
1824, to two hundred and ninety-eight, as was mentioned above. Among
these there were only three females.
Of these two hundred and ninety-eight, there were fifty-four black or
coloured people, and fifty-nine white foreigners, viz. thirteen
Englishmen, seventeen Irishmen, eight Scotchmen, four from Nova Scotia,
two Canadians, one from the Cape of Good Hope, three West Indians, four
Frenchmen, two Swedes, two Italians, one from Green Cape, one
Portuguese, one German.
Two hundred and twenty-two were sentenced for stealing, twenty-six for
passing counterfeit money, sixteen for burglary, seven for attempted
rape, six for attempting to murder, five for being incendiaries, eleven
for forgery, and five, among whom were the three females, for robbery.
The prisoners are employed in different occupations; one hundred and
twenty-one were stone-cutters, twenty-seven for removing the stone,
thirty joiners, eleven brush makers, eight weavers, six shoemakers, ten
tailors, &c. There were eleven in the hospital, four in solitary
confinement, and three invalids.
The expenses of the prison amounted to forty-one thousand six hundred
and ninety-five dollars for the maintenance of the prisoners, clothes,
beds, medicine, and materials employed in the labours of the prisoners;
and fifteen thousand nine hundred and twenty-six dollars for the
officers, &c. Total of expenses, fifty-seven thousand six hundred and
twenty-two dollars.
The income derived from the labours of the prisoners amounted to
fifty-eight thousand eight hundred and thirty-four dollars, and thus the
prison was not only of no expense to the state, but produced a profit of
twelve hundred and twelve dollars!
After leaving this remarkable building, the mayor accompanied us to
Cambridge. A company of volunteers from Boston, the Washington Rangers,
were training. The company were already departing when we arrived, but
had the politeness to halt and repeat their exercise again. They
exhibited much skill. They are somewhat fantastically dressed in green,
and armed with long rifles. I became acquainted with the officers, who
were all young men of the best families. I also spoke with several
Cambridge students, some of whom were dressed in a uniform, belonging to
a volunteer company, consisting of students alone.
We then went to Bunker’s Hill, near Charlestown. The space is small, but
of great importance in American history. Connected with the main land by
a bridge, this field of battle lies on a small island and has two hills,
the higher and most northern of which is called Bunker’s Hill; the
southern, Breed’s Hill, commands Charlestown and the Boston Roads.
In the year 1775, the Americans occupied this hill, and with their
artillery, which was placed in a redoubt hastily thrown up, harassed the
English garrison in Boston, and the fleet. On the morning of the 17th of
June, the English made a sally, left Boston, landed on a point east of
the redoubt, where the Americans had left too weak a defence, formed
their columns, whilst the artillery in Boston set Charlestown on fire,
and attacked the redoubt. This was so well defended, that the English
were twice obliged to retreat with very great loss. In one of these
unsuccessful attacks, the English Major Pitcairn, who shortly before had
commanded the English advance guard at the affair of Lexington, was shot
by an American sharp shooter, who still lives, at the moment when he
shouted to his soldiers not to be “afraid of these d----d rebels, which
were nothing but a crowd of grasshoppers.”
But the English received reinforcements, and renewed the attack. The
Americans, on the contrary, had expended their ammunition, and the shot
sent to them from Cambridge, the headquarters of General Lee, were too
large for the calibre of their pieces. They could obtain no assistance,
as an English man of war kept up a fierce fire upon the bridge, the only
means of communication with the main land. They determined, therefore,
to evacuate the redoubt, and they effected it, though with great loss.
At this time an English officer shot Dr. WARREN, one of the most
distinguished American patriots, who shortly before had been appointed
general, by congress. The English did not pursue the Americans farther
than Bunker’s Hill, but returned during the night to Boston. The remains
of the redoubt are still seen, and on the 17th of June last, the corner
stone of a monument was laid, which is to be an obelisk two hundred and
ten feet high. One hundred and thirty veterans were present at this
ceremony, the last of the seventeen hundred Americans who had
participated in this affair.
Finally, Mr. Quincy introduced us, in Charlestown, to a major of
militia, who devotes much of his attention to rural economy, and to the
breeding of cattle and horses. His whole establishment was interesting.
The major showed us, particularly, a noble English bull, from which he
had raised very handsome and strong calves, and also a fine English
stallion, ten years old.
In these peregrinations I made inquiries after Miss Wright, who, some
years ago, published letters on America, which excited much attention in
Europe, as well as in America. I was told that this _lady_ with her
sister, unattended by a male protector, had roved through the country,
in steam-boats and stages, that she constantly tagged about after
General La Fayette, and whenever the general arrived at any place, Miss
Wright was sure to follow next day, as but little notice had been taken
of this _lady_ in Boston, a literary attack was expected from her pen.
She is no longer young, and is of tall stature and masculine manners. In
general, her letters are not much esteemed, and the flattering terms in
which she speaks of Americans and all their institutions, are regarded
as overstrained.[I-5]
[Footnote I-5: [This “_lady_” is now one of the editors of a
newspaper, published in the western country, devoted to the
especial debasement of the human race. She has kindly undertaken
to enlighten the Americans by endeavouring to convince them that
_religion_ is a cheat, _chastity_ a dream, and all who adhere to
the pure precept of the gospel of our Saviour, fools!]--TRANS.]
On the 30th of July I went on board the Pallas to attend to the
unloading of my baggage. I remained there a few hours, as I found it
cooler on board than on shore. The vessel was as they said, full of
visitors all day, for Captain Ryk, with his usual liberality, denied
access to no one of genteel appearance. Citizens are by no means allowed
to visit American vessels of war, unless they are known to an officer,
and on this account the curiosity of the inhabitants of this place to
see a foreign vessel of war is great.
When I returned to the city, I visited Mr. Quincy, who took me to the
Court-house to see the arsenal of the thirteen volunteer companies of
this place. One of these companies has been organized ever since 1638;
all of these consist of young men of good families, who do not wish to
serve in the same companies with the common crowd, but have united, and,
in elegant uniforms, compose the flank companies of the battalions of
militia. A large hall in the Court-house is appropriated for their
exercises, when the weather is inclement. Every company consists of
about sixty men. The greater number of the companies are armed like
infantry, with bayonets according to the English mode, and the riflemen
alone with rifles. Not only the arms of the company, but the swords of
the officers are kept in the chambers of the Court-house.
From the Court-house, Mr. Quincy took me to the Athenæum, where the
principal journals of the United States are found, and a library of
about twenty thousand volumes, which were partly presented and partly
purchased. A regular librarian showed us every thing; we noticed
particularly several interesting medals, and the collection made by
Thomasson in Birmingham, which represents the Elgin marbles. In the
vestibule of the house, and in the large reading room, are plaster
busts, which Lawyer Thorndike brought from Rome and presented to the
Athenæum. The handsome house itself, which is valued at twenty thousand
dollars, was given to the society by Mr. Perkins, a brother of the
celebrated mechanician in London.
Some days later, August 2, Mr. Quincy had the politeness to show me
several hospitals of the city.
The civil hospital was founded about twenty years ago, and is a massive
building of granite, with ten Ionic columns of the same stone. The
building, founded by voluntary subscriptions, and afterwards enriched by
legacies, now supports itself by the interest of the capital and by fees
which some patients pay. The administration of the hospitals and other
benevolent institutions, is conducted, without charge, by the principal
inhabitants, in a very correct and economical manner. The house has a
cellar, two stories besides a ground floor, and may contain about eighty
sick of both sexes, which are placed in different wings of the building.
There were at that time fifty-six patients, under the care of six nurses
and a matron. The house is under the direction of a steward, who is at
the same time a physician. Those patients who pay ten dollars a week,
occupy separate chambers, with separate attendants; others pay only
three dollars a week, and many nothing at all. The latter are all in the
same halls, which, however, are very light and well ventilated. The sick
sleep on beds of hard wood, with good hair mattresses and very fine bed
clothes. The steps are of granite, the halls and chambers are planked,
and the floors are painted with oil colours. I have seen many hospitals,
but none in which the sick were so conveniently and suitably lodged, and
none in which cleanliness was so well observed. The kitchen and
wash-house are in the cellar. In the former, the victuals are cooked by
means of steam, and the latter is arranged like that in the Plymouth
Marine Hospital, namely, with very large wooden frames to dry the
clothes. The session room of the directors, the anatomical theatre, with
some chambers for sick, are in the first story; the dwelling of the
matron, and the remainder of the chambers for patients, are arranged in
the second story. Two reservoirs of water, which may be raised by pumps,
should a fire break out, are situated on the ground floor. Mr. Coolidge,
one of the directors, accompanied us, and conducted us also to the
lunatic asylum, which is under the same directors.
This building stands on an eminence between Cambridge and Charlestown.
A farm-house has been purchased in the neighbourhood, which serves as
the dwelling of the steward and head physician, as well as for a kitchen
and wash-house. Behind this house two very solid wings have been built,
three stories high, one for males, and the other for females. They
somewhat resemble prisons, but are concealed by the farm-house, which
has a very pleasing aspect, and thus prevents the unpleasant sensations
which the institution would otherwise excite in the minds of the unhappy
lunatics when they first approach it. A large garden, surrounded with a
wall, is attached to each wing, serving as a place of recreation for the
patients. A well-lighted corridor runs along each story, at each side of
which are the doors of the cells; in these nothing is placed but a
wooden bedstead, as in the hospital. Every story has an eating room, and
a common hall; in the latter, in which the sick may pass the day,
a table is placed with benches, which are nailed to the floor. The
infuriated are placed in solitary cells, and when they cannot be
subdued, are brought under a cold shower bath. The chambers are heated,
as in the hospitals, by means of flues. In this asylum also, in which
there were forty patients, the greatest cleanliness prevailed.
On the 3d of August, Mr. Quincy called for me at twelve o’clock, to
introduce me, with Captain Ryk and Mr. Tromp, to the elder Mr. Adams,
father of the present president. This worthy old man, who was ninety
years old, and a signer of the Declaration of Independence, lives ten
miles from Boston, on his farm at Quincy, revered by his family, and
honoured by the whole nation, who regard him as their common father.
I was much affected when, as I approached this venerable man who had so
efficiently laboured in the cause of American independence, he extended
to me his hand. He was still in full possession of his mental faculties,
and remembered, not only the things which had occurred long ago, but
knew also every thing which had recently taken place, or was now
passing. His bodily strength, however, was diminishing, and he felt a
weakness, particularly in his legs. He conversed with me about half an
hour, especially concerning Holland, where he had been ambassador during
the revolution, and the features of his ancient countenance revived
again as he dwelt on the fact, that it was owing to him that Holland
then declared war against England, and the English ambassador,
notwithstanding all his intrigues, could effect nothing. When Mr. Tromp
was introduced to him, he remembered his great ancestor, shook his hand
in a friendly manner, was much affected, and said to him, “God bless
you, Van Tromp!” We left this worthy old man in deep emotion, and
congratulated each other on our good fortune in having been introduced
to this departing veteran of a revolution, which may well be called
salutary.
In his house we saw several good portraits and busts of him, portraits
of his wife, who died seven years ago, of his son, the president, and of
General _Warren_, who fell at Bunker’s Hill. We saw also a son of
President J. Q. Adams, who is a lawyer at Boston, and with whom I became
acquainted some days ago in the Athenæum.
From Boston to Quincy there is a good turnpike road. It runs over some
hills, on which the traveller sees a handsome panorama; behind him the
city, on the left the bay, in front a well-cultivated region with
handsome farms, on the right the Blue Hills. We passed by several neat
farm-houses; the grounds are separated by means of dry walls, the stones
of which are partly hewn, and separated from each other, somewhat like
those of Scotland. No old trees are found, because the first settlers
very imprudently destroyed all the wood, and now it must be raised again
with much trouble. Lombardy poplars, and plane trees are frequent. The
inhabitants generally appear to be in good circumstances, at least the
farmers seem to prosper, and the houses appear to great advantage, for
instance, we remarked a common village blacksmith shop, which was built
of massive granite. At the very neat village of Miltonbridge we passed
over the river Neponset, which is navigable for small vessels.
Quincy contains about four thousand inhabitants, and has assumed this
name in honour of the mayor’s family, which is here much beloved and
esteemed. Mr. Quincy’s country seat, to which we repaired from the house
of the ex-president, is about two miles distant from the latter, and
lies in the neighbourhood of the sea on a small eminence, from which
there is a very handsome prospect towards the bay. Mr. Quincy introduced
us to his family, to his wife, two sons, and four daughters. The eldest
daughter is very accomplished, and excels in painting landscapes in
sepia. Some years ago she visited the Falls of Niagara with her family,
and sketched several views. The other daughters are also very well
educated, and have a talent for music. We met here several gentlemen
from Boston, among others, Mr. Shepherd, Mr. Everett, and President
Kirkland, from Cambridge, who was accompanied by an aged English
teacher, Mr. Cooper, who fled from England with PRIESTLEY, thirty-five
years ago, and now directs Columbia College in South Carolina. He
appeared to be a gloomy, austere man, and very different in his address
from the humane and friendly manner of Dr. Kirkland. Towards evening we
returned to Boston by a shorter road, and passed the Neponset by means
of a long wooden bridge, which Mr. Quincy built not far from the place
where it empties into the sea. We then passed through Dorchester, and
saw on an eminence to the right the remains of two redoubts, built by
the English, which the great _Washington_ took from them, strengthened,
and thus principally contributed to the evacuation of Boston.
I accompanied, August 4th, a party to a Mr. Nathaniel Amory; we passed
over the long mill-dam, which cuts off a part of the water surrounding
Boston, and is to be filled up in time, and houses built on it. Six
miles from the city is a wooden bridge over Charles river, which we
crossed to see the arsenal on the opposite side. This establishment was
built in 1816. A long yard, surrounded with a wall of granite, is
attached to the chief arsenal, which is three stories high, with two
wings, containing the offices and dwellings of the two directors, Major
Craige and Lieutenant Van Nessen. The workshops of the different
mechanics, belonging to the arsenal, are arranged behind this building,
on each side of the yard; at a short distance from the arsenal stands
the powder magazine, built of granite, and containing about fifty
thousand pounds; thirty thousand stands of arms are contained in the
arsenal in chests, each holding twenty pieces. I saw there a
newly-invented machine for casting a hundred and sixty-two balls at
once, giving them at the same time a perfectly round form. The arsenal
is very pleasantly situated in Watertown.
We passed farther along the shore, through a romantic part of the
country, towards Waltham. At this place a branch of a large cotton
manufactory is situated, belonging to a company of twenty-five persons.
It is under the direction of Mr. Jackson, who possesses a very handsome
dwelling, where he appears to pass a happy life with his amiable family.
About four hundred and fifty workmen are employed, who live in different
buildings belonging to the factory, and form a particular colony; they
have two schools, a church, and a clergyman. They appear to be in very
good circumstances, as the dress, cleanly exterior, and healthy
appearance of the workmen testify. In these buildings the cotton is spun
and woven; but the colouring and printing are performed in another
establishment. The machines are worked by water, which is said not to
freeze in winter, but sometimes fails in dry summers. More simple
machines than jennys are used for spinning, and the dressing machines
are different from those in the Netherlands, though not better,
I believe, as they have but one cylinder. The weaving machines are
mostly of wood, which is very cheap, though I believe that our iron ones
are better. The workmen of this factory are, as I have since learned,
esteemed on account of their good manners, and their morality is
universally praised. But one case of seduction occurred in ten years.
After leaving this factory we passed by several very neat houses and
parks; the latter are smaller than those in England, because in this
country there are no rights of primogeniture, and the estate of parents
at their death is divided into as many parts as there are children. On
this account we do not find such great and powerful landholders here as
in England. It is a subject of dispute, whether primogeniture or equal
division be preferable; but it is certain that real prosperity is much
more diffused through the nation in America, and the land is better
cultivated.
Mr. Nathaniel Amory’s country seat lies on a small eminence in a
tolerably large park, and affords an extensive prospect of the vicinity
of Boston. Mr. Amory collected several good paintings of the Flemish
school in his travels, and some handsome mosaic work in Rome, with which
his house is decorated. In the afternoon we took a walk through the park
to a cottage, which belongs to the English sea captain, Wormley,
brother-in-law of Mr. Amory, and, though small, is very neatly arranged,
and handsomely situated. A small lake, called the Fresh Pond, with its
shady trees, affords a very picturesque view. After spending some time
very agreeably with his friendly family, we returned at nine o’clock in
the evening, by way of Cambridge to Boston.
I visited the navy-yard on the 5th August, in company with Major
Wainwright, of the marines, and Lieutenant Gwynn. In the small barracks
of the marines where we commenced, the rooms are not large; the beds
stand on a platform, so that the rooms are very narrow and close. The
appearance of the soldiers was not remarkable. The navy-yard was founded
only twelve years ago, and not yet completed, but is very extensive.
A dry dock has not yet been made, but will be advantageously placed. The
two line of battle ships, Columbus and Independence, and the frigate
Java, were in ordinary. Two line of battle-ships and a corvette were on
the stocks, and not yet named. The two former, which were under sheds,
were finished, so that they could leave the stocks as soon as government
should order. But as no loss was incurred, the vessels were allowed to
lie on the stocks, and under shelter as long as possible, that the wood
may become still better seasoned. The sheds are larger than the English,
and are actual houses. The two vessels are very modestly called
seventy-fours, but have each three decks; the one pierced for one
hundred and thirty thirty-two pounders, and the other for an hundred and
thirty-six, of the same caliber. They are built of live oak, and to
prevent the dry rot, salt is scattered among the timbers, which, as I
was told, was of great advantage. The vessels are so high and roomy,
that I could stand erect in the two lower batteries under the beams.
Some methods which tend to strengthen and relieve vessels, used in other
places, have not yet been adopted here; for instance, I did not observe
the cruciform strengthening of the sides, and the diagonal deck,
according to the plan of Sir Robert Seppings, from which two
improvements the navies of England and the Netherlands derive the
greatest advantage. The same system which prevails in England is
observed here, namely, not to employ shipwrights for builders, as in the
Netherlands and in France, but carpenters. Mr. Baker, the master
shipwright of this place, with whom I became acquainted, is considered
to be a very skilful man.
After we had seen the navy-yard, been much gratified with its good
condition, and wishing it might soon be finished, we visited the lady of
the commissioner, Captain Craine, who was absent. The commissioner’s
house belongs to the government, and is placed on a height overlooking
the navy-yard; the architect who planned it, worried the commissioner
with continual questions relative to the form of the house, until
finally he replied in great vexation, build it _like my ----_. The
architect took him at his word, and built it with two round projections
standing close together, which have a very curious appearance from the
navy-yard. We saw in the navy-yard sails of cotton canvass, which are
preferred to hempen sails, both because they are more easily worked, and
are peculiarly durable. They are not, however, liked in the navy,
because they are too combustible, and on that account might be extremely
dangerous to a vessel during an action; they are therefore used only for
the higher sails.
On the next day Mr. Quincy very politely invited me to visit some of the
public schools, which are under his direction. I accepted this
invitation with much pleasure, for in a country like this, where the
people govern themselves, without doubt the prevailing spirit may be
best learnt from the institutions for public education. There are also
at Boston, besides various private and two public schools, a Latin and a
mathematical school, called _high schools_, which are both maintained at
the expense of the city; boys of every class are admitted without paying
for their tuition.[I-6] Well-informed young men, who received good
salaries, are selected as teachers. The first teacher of the high school
receives yearly two thousand five hundred dollars. The study of the
ancient languages, the Latin and Greek, forms the basis of public
instruction. At the same time that these are taught, the attention,
acuteness, and memory of the pupils, are variously exercised; if, for
example, any one recites a line of the Eneid, and repeats the last
letter, another immediately arises, and repeats from the same poem a
line, beginning with this letter. The pupils do this with wonderful
rapidity. The declamations took place during our presence. One of the
scholars recited the speech of an English member of parliament, with so
warm and correct a delivery, that the speech could scarcely have been
better spoken in parliament. Another recited an oration, in which the
advantages of a moderate above a despotic government, were also
exhibited in a very good and distinct manner. Every evening the place of
each scholar in the class for the next day, is appointed by the teacher,
according to the industry which he may have shown during the day, and
entered into a book. At the end of the month judgments are passed on all
the pupils according to this list.
[Footnote I-6: The expenses of public instruction, with the
exception of Harvard University, are defrayed by means of a school
tax, granted by the representatives of the state of Massachusetts,
to which every inhabitant of the state is obliged to contribute.
This praiseworthy arrangement exists also in Maine, New Hampshire,
Vermont, Rhode Island, and Connecticut. In the last state,
moreover, those parents who neglect to keep their children at
school, are fined five dollars for every absent child, which sum
goes into the school treasury.]
The mathematical and physical sciences are taught in the high school; it
possesses a very good philosophical cabinet. We heard one class examined
in arithmetic, and another in analytic geometry. In the former I saw
that much attention was paid to mental calculation, and was surprised at
the quick and correct solutions of difficult arithmetical questions.
In the higher class the teacher proposed a question, and all those
immediately arose who thought they could answer it. One was designated
by the teacher to solve it, and if another thought the answer not
exactly correct, he raised his hand, without interrupting the first, and
corrected him when called upon. I was pleased both with the kind manners
of the teachers, and the modest, correct, and easy deportment of the
scholars. The boys generally had handsome faces, and were all of an
animated physiognomy. With this they combine, as I was frequently
convinced, the greatest respect for their parents and teachers. It
appears to me impossible that young people, who receive so liberal an
education, can grow up to be bad or malicious men. I was indeed affected
when I left the schools, and could not but congratulate Mr. Quincy from
the bottom of my heart, on such a rising generation! Captain Ryk, who
accompanied us, participated in my views and feelings.
From the schools we went to the state-house or capitol, of the exterior
of which I have already spoken, but the interior arrangement I had not
yet seen. Besides the offices belonging to the state government, it
contains the assembly rooms of the three bodies which govern the state,
the council of the governor, the senate, and the representatives. These
rooms are spacious; still, however, it is evident, that thirty-seven
years ago, when this building was erected, every thing was done in
haste, and that architecture had not then made the progress which it
since has. All the steps are of wood. A trophy is erected in one of the
chambers, composed of Brunswick arms, which were taken at the battle of
Saratoga. One hundred and sixty-eight steps lead to the lantern of the
cupola, which is of wood, and covered with copper. Notwithstanding the
excessive heat, we went up, and our labour was richly recompensed by a
splendid prospect. The dome is the highest point in the vicinity, and
affords a view not only of the whole city and the bay, but also of a
great extent of ground beyond, in every part of which a number of neat
dwellings may be observed.
Thus passed almost fourteen days, in an uncommonly pleasing and
instructive manner. In general my state of health allowed me to enjoy
every new and interesting object with serenity of mind; I was indisposed
but two days, and this was probably owing to the excessive heat. Even
the intermediate hours, which could not be dedicated to the inspection
of public institutions, generally afforded instructive amusements.
I passed the morning in reading and writing, then received or paid
visits, and at all times met with attention, courteousness, and
kindness. I visited the churches on the Sundays I passed in Boston,
which are still more quietly kept in America than in England. The first
time I went to a Unitarian church, attended by a son of the mayor;
a second time I went to an Episcopalian church, accompanied by Mr.
Lloyd, a very distinguished man, and senator of the United States.
I dined twice at the inn, but generally accepted some friendly
invitation, and passed all my evenings very agreeably in company at
musical parties and other entertainments. I also made some excursions
into the country besides those already mentioned.
The society, especially when ladies are not present, is uncommonly fine
and lively--both sexes are very well educated and accomplished. So much
care is bestowed upon the education of the female sex, that it would
perhaps be considered in other countries as superfluous. Young ladies
even learn Latin and Greek, but then they also can speak of other things
besides fashions and tea-table subjects; thus, for instance, I was at a
party of Mrs. General Humphreys, which was entirely in the European
style, without cards, dancing or music, and yet it was lively and
agreeable. Thus I passed some delightful hours with Mr. Ritchie, Mr.
Dixon, Mr. Homer, Mr. Otis, Mr. Shepherd, and Mr. Artiguenave,
a Frenchman, formerly an actor in the Théâtre Français, at Paris, and
now professor of the French language at Cambridge University. Many of
those gentlemen who are met with in such society, have travelled in
Europe, sometimes accompanied by their ladies; Europeans are frequently
present, and thus there is no want of materials for conversation. The
generality of the houses, moreover, offer something attractive in the
fine arts; and in returning home on an evening, the city, the bridges,
and the Mill-dam are very well lighted, not indeed with gas, but with
reflecting lamps, and none of that disorderly conduct is observed in the
streets, which so often shocks the mind in the cities of England.
We made an excursion on the 1st of August into the country with Mr.
Dixon in his dearborn. A dearborn is a very light wagon, with two
benches and four wheels, drawn by one horse. We rode over the neck which
unites Boston with the main land, and was fortified by the English
during the revolution; then in an ascending direction towards the
heights of Roxbury, where, during the blockade, the right wing of the
American lines stood. The ground is very rocky, and partly covered with
fir trees; the trees which formerly stood here must have been entirely
removed, as not one high tree can be seen. Passing farther on we saw
very handsome country houses and gardens, the former generally two
stories high, and surrounded with covered colonnades. At one of these we
paid a visit to the owner, Mr. Rufus Amory. A walk, shaded by oak, elm,
and maple trees, leads to the dwelling on a slight elevation, which
commands an extended and beautiful view of Boston and the bay. We were
received by the friendly owner in an extremely obliging and hospitable
manner. We rode through a romantic part of the country to Dorchester, to
visit General Sumner at his country seat, but did not find him at home.
We then returned by another handsome road to Boston, and passed a large
rope manufactory, the works of which were moved by steam.
At another excursion to Dorchester, in company with some young men, sons
of the richest inhabitants of the place, a game of ten-pins was played.
It is called ten-pins, because that number of pins is here used in the
game.[I-7]
[Footnote I-7: [Most probably to evade a law against
“_nine_-pins.”]--TRANS.]
Finally, I cannot omit to mention one visit, which, in company with Mr.
Ritchie, I made to Mr. Coolidge, jr. Mr. Coolidge had, three months ago,
married a Miss Randolph, a granddaughter of THOMAS JEFFERSON. His wife,
about thirty years old, was brought up by her grandfather in the country
in his library. She is said to be so learned that JEFFERSON often asked
her advice. She had arrived a few days previous, and made known that she
would receive visiters, and we therefore found the chamber filled with
people. Every one at his departure took with him a piece of wedding
cake. The young ladies, as it is said, place this cake under their
pillows, and then dream of their future lovers.