W. R.

¶ The discouerie of Guiana.

On Thursday the 6. of February in the yeere 1595. we departed England,

and the Sunday following had sight of the North cape of Spaine, the

winter for the most part continuing prosperous: we passed in sight of

the Burlings, and the Rocke, and so onwards for the Canaries, and fel

with Fuerte ventura the 17 of the same moneth, where we spent two or

three dayes, and relieued our companies with some fresh meat. From

thence we coasted by the Grand Canaria, and so to Tenerif, and stayed

there for the Lions whelpe your Lordships ship, and for Captaine Amyas

Preston and the rest. [Sidenote: The yle of Trinidad.] But when after 7.

or 8. dayes wee found them not, we departed and directed our course for

Trinidad with mine owne ship, and a small barke of Captaine Crosses

onely (for we had before lost sight of a small Galego on the coast of

Spaine, which came with vs from Plimmouth) we arriued at Trinidad the

22. of March, casting ancker at point Curiapan, which the Spaniards call

punta de Gallo, which is situate in 8. degrees or there abouts: we abode

there 4. or 5. dayes, and in all that time we came not to the speach of

any Indian or Spaniard: on the coast we saw a fire, as we sailed from

the point Caroa towards Curiapan, but for feare of the Spaniards none

durst come to speake with vs. I my selfe coasted it in my barge close

abord the shore and landed in euery Coue, the better to know the yland,

while the ships kept the chanell. From Curiapan after a fewe dayes we

turned vp Northeast to recouer that place which the Spaniards call

Puerto de los Espannoles, and the inhabitants Conquerabia, and as before

(reuictualling my barge) I left the ships and kept by the shore, the

better to come to speach with some of the inhabitants, and also to

vnderstand the riuers, watering places, and ports of the yland, which

(as it is rudely done) my purpose is to send your Lordship after a few

dayes. From Curiapan I came to a port and seat of Indians called Parico,

where we found a fresh water riuer, but saw no people. From thence I

rowed to another port, called by the naturals Piche, and by the

Spaniards Tierra de Brea: In the way betweene both were diuers little

brookes of fresh water and one salt riuer that had store of oisters vpon

the branches of the trees, and were very salt and well tasted. All their

oisters grow vpon those boughs and spraies, and not on the ground: the

like is commonly seene in other places of the West Indies, and else

where. This tree is described by Andrew Theuet in his French

Antarctique, and the forme figured in the booke as a plant very strange,

and by Plinie in his 12. booke of his naturall historie. But in this

yland, as also in Guiana there are very many of them.

At this point called Tierra de Brea or Piche there is that abundance of

stone pitch, that all the ships of the world may be therewith loden from

thence, and we made trial of it in trimming our shippes to be most

excellent good, and melteth not with the Sunne as the pitch of Norway,

and therefore for shippes trading the South parts very profitable. From

thence wee went to the mountaine foote called Anniperima, and so passing

the riuer Carone on which the Spanish Citie was seated, we met with our

ships at Puerto de los Espannoles or Conquerabia.

This yland of Trinidad hath the forme of a sheephooke, and is but

narrow, the North part is very mountainous, the soile is very excellent

and will beare suger, ginger, or any other commoditie that the Indies

yeeld. It hath store of deere, wilde porks, fruits, fish and foule: It

hath also for bread sufficient maiz, cassaui, and of those rootes and

fruites which are common euery where in the West Indies. It hath diuers

beastes which the Indies haue not: the Spaniards confessed that they

found graines of golde in some of the riuers, but they hauing a purpose

to enter Guiana (the Magazin of all rich mettals) cared not to spend

time in the search thereof any further. This yland is called by the

people thereof Cairi, and in it are diuers nations: those about Parico

are called Iaio, those at Punta de Carao are of the Arwacas, and

betweene Carao and Curiapan they are called Saluajos, betwene Carao and

Punta de Galera are the Nepoios, and those about the Spanish citie terme

themselues Carinepagotes: Of the rest of the nations, and of other ports

and riuers I leaue to speake here, being impertinent to my purpose, and

meane to describe them as they are situate in the particular plot and

description of the yland, three parts whereof I coasted with my barge,

that I might the better describe it.

[Sidenote: The death of Captaine Whiddon.] Meeting with the ships at

Puerto de los Espannoles, we found at the landing place a company of

Spaniards who kept a guard at the descent, and they offering a signe of

peace, I sent Captaine Whiddon to speake with them, whom afterward to my

great griefe I left buried in the said yland after my returne from

Guiana, being a man most honest and valiant. The Spaniards seemed to be

desirous to trade with vs, and to enter into termes of peace, more for

doubt of their owne strength then for ought else, and in the ende vpon

pledge, some of them came abord: the same euening there stale also abord

vs in a small Canoa two Indians, the one of them being a Casique or Lord

of the people called Cantyman, who had the yeere before bene with

Captaine Whiddon and was of his acquaintance. By this Cantyman, wee

vnderstood what strength the Spaniards had, howe farre it was to their

Citie, and of Don Antonio de Berreo the gouernor, who was said to be

slaine in his second attempt of Guiana, but was not.

While we remained at Puerto de los Espannoles some Spaniards came abord

vs to buy linnen of the company, and such other things as they wanted,

and also to view our ships and company, all which I entertained kindly

and feasted after our maner: by meanes whereof I learned of one and

another as much of the estate of Guiana as I could, or as they knew for

those poore souldiers hauing bene many yeeres without wine, a few

draughts made them merrie, in which mood they vaunted of Guiana and of

the riches thereof, and all what they knewe of the wayes and passages,

my selfe seeming to purpose nothing lesse then the enterance or

discouerie thereof, but bred in them an opinion that I was bound onely

for the reliefe of those English which I had planted in Virginia,

whereof the bruite was come among them: which I had performed in my

returne, if extremitie of weather had not forst me from the said coast.

I found occasions of staying in this place for two causes: the one was

to be reuenged of Berreo, who the yere before 1594. had betraied eight

of Captaine Whiddons men, and tooke them while he departed from them to

seeke the Edward Bonauenture, which arriued at Trinidad the day before

from the East Indies: [Sidenote: 8 Englishmen betrayed by Antony

Berreo.] in whose absence Berreo sent a Canoa abord the pinnesse onely

with Indians and dogs inuiting the company to goe with them into the

woods to kill a deare, who like wise men in the absence of their

Captaine followed the Indians, but were no sooner one harquebuze shot

from the shore, but Berreos souldiers lying in ambush had them al,

notwithstanding that he had giuen his word to Captaine Whiddon that they

should take water and wood safely: the other cause of my stay was, for

that by discourse with the Spaniards I dayly learned more and more of

Guiana, of the riuers and passages, and of the enterprise of Berreo, by

what meanes or fault he failed, and how he meant to prosecute the same.

While wee thus spent the time I was assured by another Casique of the

North side of the yland, that Berreo had sent to Margarita and Cumana

for souldiers, meaning to haue giuen mee a cassado at parting, if it had

bene possible. For although he had giuen order through all the yland

that no Indian should come abord to trade with me vpon paine of hanging

and quartering, (hauing executed two of them for the same, which I

afterwards founde) yet euery night there came some with most lamentable

complaints of his crueltie, how he had diuided the yland and giuen to

euery souldier a part, that hee made the ancient Casiques which were

Lords of the countrey to be their slaues, that he kept them in chaines,

and dropped their naked bodies with burning bacon, and such other

torments, which I found afterwards to be true: for in the citie after I

entred the same there were 5. of the lords or litle kings (which they

cal Casiques in the West Indies) in one chaine almost dead of famine,

and wasted with torments: these are called in their owne language

Acarewana, and now of the late since English, French and Spanish are

come among them, they call themselues Capitaines, because they perceiue

that the chiefest of euery ship is called by that name. Those fiue

Capitaines in the chaine were called Wannawanare, Carroaori, Maquarima,

Tarroopanama, and Aterima. So as both to be reuenged of the former wrong

as also considering that to enter Guiana by small boats, to depart 400.

or 500. miles from my ships, and to leaue a garison in my backe

interrested in the same enterprize, who also dayly expected supplies out

of Spaine, I should haue sauored very much of the asse: [Sidenote: The

Citie of S. Ioseph taken. Antony Berreo taken prisoner.] and therefore

taking a time of most aduantage I set vpon the Corps du guard in the

euening, and hauing put them to the sword, sent Captaine Calfield

onwards with 60. souldiers, and my selfe followed with 40. more and so

tooke their new City which they called S. Ioseph by breake of day: they

abode not any fight after a fewe shot, and all being dismissed but onely

Berreo and his companion, I brought them with me abord, and at the

instance of the Indians I set their new citie of S. Ioseph on fire.

The same day arriued Captaine George Gifford with your Lordships ship,

and Captaine Keymis whom I lost on the coast of Spaine with the Galego,

and in them diuers gentlemen and others, which to our little armie was a

great comfort and supply.

We then hasted away towards our purposed discouery, and first I called

all the Captaines of the yland together that were enemies to the

Spaniards: for there were some which Berreo had brought out of other

countreys, and planted there to eate out and wast those that were

naturall of the place, and by my Indian interpreter, which I caried out

of England, I made them vnderstand that I was the seruant of a Queene,

who was the great Casique of the North, and a virgine, and had more

Casiqui vnder her then there were trees in that yland: that shee was an

enemie to the Castellani in respect of their tyrannie and oppression,

and that she deliuered all such nations about her, as were by them

oppressed, and hauing freed all the coast of the Northren world from

their seruitude, had sent mee to free them also, and withall to defend

the countrey of Guiana from their inuasion and conquest. I shewed them

her Maiesties picture which they so admired and honoured, as it had bene

easie to haue brought them idolatrous thereof.

The like and a more large discourse I made to the rest of the nations

both in my passing to Guiana, and to those of the borders, so as in that

part of the world her Maiestie is very famous and admirable, whom they

now call Ezrabeta Cassipuna Aquerewana, which is as much as Elizabeth,

the great princesse or greatest commander. This done we left Puerto de

los Espannoles, and returned to Curiapan, and hauing Berreo my prisoner

I gathered from him as much of Guiana as he knew.

This Berreo is a gentleman wel descended, and had long serued the

Spanish king in Millain, Naples, the Low countreis and elsewhere, very

valiant and liberall, and a gentleman of great assurednes, and of a

great heart: I vsed him according to his estate and worth in all things

I could, according to the small meanes I had.

[Sidenote: Sir W. Ralegh passed 400. miles toward Guiana.] I sent

Captaine Whiddon the yeere before to get what knowledge he could of

Guiana, and the end of my iourney at this time was to discouer and enter

the same, but my intelligence was farre from trueth, for the countrey is

situate aboue 600. English miles further from the Sea, then I was made

beleeue it had bin, which afterward vnderstanding to be true by Berreo,

I kept it from the knowledge of my company, who else would neuer haue

bene brought to attempt the same: of which 600. miles I passed 400.

leauing my ships so farre from mee at ancker in the Sea, which was more

of desire to performe that discouery, then of reason, especially hauing

such poore and weake vessels to transport our selues in; for in the

bottom of an old Galego which I caused to be fashioned like a galley,

and in one barge, two whirries, and a shipboat of the Lions whelpe, we

caried 100. persons and their victuals for a moneth in the same, being

al driuen to lie in the raine and weather, in the open aire, in the

burning Sunne, and vpon the hard bords, and to dresse our meat, and to

cary all maner of furniture in them, wherewith they were so pestered and

unsauory, that what with victuals being most fish, with wette clothes of

so many men thrust together, and the heat of the Sunne, I will vndertake

there was neuer any prison in England, that could bee found more

vnsauorie and lothsome, especially to my selfe, who had for many yeeres

before bene dieted and cared for in a sort farre more differing.

If Captaine Preston had not bene perswaded that he should haue come too

late to Trinidad to haue found vs there (for the moneth was expired

which I promised to tary for him there ere hee coulde recouer the coast

of Spaine) but that it had pleased God hee might haue ioyned with vs,

and that we had entred the countrey but some ten dayes sooner ere the

Riuers were ouerflowen, wee had aduentured either to haue gone to the

great Citie of Manoa, or at least taken so many of the other Cities and

townes neerer at hand, as would haue made a royall returne: but it

pleased not God so much to fauour mee at this time: if it shall be my

lot to prosecute the same, I shall willingly spend my life therein, and

if any else shalbe enabled thereunto, and conquere the same, I assure

him thus much, he shall perfourme more then euer was done in Mexico by

Cortez, or in Peru by Piçarro, whereof the one conquered the Empire of

Mutezuma, the other of Guascar, and Atabalipa, and whatsoeuer prince

shall possesse it, that Prince shall be Lord of more golde, and of a

more beautifull Empire, and of more Cities and people, then either the

King of Spaine, or the great Turke.

But because there may arise many doubts, and how this Empire of Guiana

is become so populous, and adorned with so many great Cities, townes,

temples and treasures, I thought good to make it knowen, that the

Emperour now reigning is descended from those magnificent princes of

Peru, of whose large territories, of whose policies, conquests,

edifices, and riches Pedro de Cieça, Francisco Lopez, and others haue

written large discourses: for when Francisco Piçarro, Diego Almagro and

others conquered the said Empire of Peru, and had put to death Atabalipa

sonne to Guaynacapa, which Atabalipa had formerly caused his eldest

brother Guascar to bee slaine, one of the yonger sonnes of Guaynacapa

fled out of Peru, and tooke with him many thousands of those souldiers

of the Empire called Oreiones, and with those and many others which

followed him, he vanquished all that tract and valley of America which

is situate betweene the great riuer of Amazones, and Baraquan, otherwise

called Orenoque and Marannon.

The Empire of Guiana is directly East from Peru towards the Sea, and

lieth under the Equinoctial line, and it hath more abundance of golde

then any part of Peru, and as many or more great Cities then euer Peru

had when it flourished most: it is gouerned by the same lawes, and the

Emperour and people obserue the same religion, and the same forme and

policies in gouernment as were vsed in Peru, not differing in any part:

[Sidenote: The statelines of Manoa.] and I haue bene assured by such of

the Spaniards as haue seene Manoa the Imperial Citie of Guiana, which

the Spaniards call El Dorado, that for the greatnesse, for the riches,

and for the excellent seat, it farre exceedeth any of the world, at

least of so much of the world as is knowen to the Spanish nation: it is

founded vpon a lake of salt water of 200. leagues long like vnto Mare

Caspium. [Sidenote: Fran. Lopez de Gomera hist. gen. cap. 120.] And if

we compare it to that of Peru, and but read the report of Francisco

Lopez and others, it will seeme more then credible: and because we may

iudge of the one by the other, I thought good to insert part of the 120.

Chapter of Lopez in his generall historie of the Indies, wherein he

describeth the Court and magnificence of Guaynacapa, ancestour to the

Emperor of Guiana, whose very wordes are these. Todo el seruicio de su

casa, mesa, y cozina, era de oro, y de plata, y quando menos de plata, y

cobre por mas rezio. Tenia en su recamara estatuas huecas de oro, que

parecian gigantes, y las figuaras al propio, y tamanno de quantos

animales, aues, arboles, y yeruas produze la tierra, y de quantos peces

cria la mar y aguas de sus reynos. Tenia assi mesmo sogas, costales,

cestas, y troxes de oro y plata, rimeros de palos de oro, que parecissen

lenna raiada para quemar. En fin no auia cosa en su tierra, que no la

tuuiesse do oro contrahecha: y aun dizen, que tenian los Ingas vn vergel

en vna Isla cerca de la Puna, donde se yuan a holgar, quando querian

mar, que tenia la ortaliza, las flores, y arboles de oro y plata,

inuencion y grandeza hasta entonces nunca vista. Allende de todo esto

tenia infinitissima, cantitad de plata, y oro por labrar en el Cuzco,

que se perdio por la muerte de Guascar, car los Indios lo escondieron,

viendo que los Espannoles se lo tomauan, y embiauan a Espanna. That is,

All the vessels of his house, table and kitchin were of gold and siluer,

and the meanest of siluer and copper for strength and hardnesse of

metall. He had in his wardrobe hollow statues of gold which seemed

giants, and the figures in proportion and bignesse of all the beasts,

birds, trees and hearbes, that the earth bringeth foorth: and of all the

fishes that the sea or waters of his kingdome breedeth. He had also

ropes, budgets, chestes and troughs of golde and siluer, heapes of

billets of gold, that seemed wood marked out to burne. Finally, there

was nothing in his countrey, whereof he had not the counterfait in gold:

Yea and they say, The Ingas had a garden of pleasure in an yland neere

Puna, where they went to recreat themselues, when they would take the

aire of the Sea, which had all kinde of garden-hearbs, flowers and trees

of golde and siluer, an inuention, and magnificence till then neuer

seene. Besides all this, he had an infinite quantitie of siluer and

golde vnwrought in Cuzco which was lost by the death of Guascar, for the

Indians hid it, seeing that the Spaniards tooke it, and sent it into

Spaine.

And in the 117. chapter Francisco Piçarro caused the gold and siluer of

Atabalipa to be weyed after he had taken it, which Lopez setteth downe

in these words following. Hallaron cinquenta y dos mil marcos de buena

plata, y vn millon y trezientos veinte y seys mil, y quinientos pesos de

oro, Which is: They found fiftie and two thousand markes of good siluer,

and one million, and three hundred twenty and sixe thousand and fiue

hundred pezos of golde.[54]

[54] These quotations show the riches of _Peru_, not of _El Dorado_.

This was the name given by the Spaniards in the sixteenth century to an

imaginary region somewhere in the interior of South America, between the

Orinoco and the Amazon, where gold and precious stones were supposed to

be in such abundance as to be had for merely picking them up. This story

was communicated by an Indian cacique to Gonzalo Pizarro, brother of the

conquerer, who sent Francisco Orellana down the Amazon River to discover

this wonderful land. Orellana followed the course of the Amazon down to

the sea, but he did not find El Dorado. The story, however, continued to

be credited for many years afterwards.

Now although these reports may seeme strange, yet if we consider the

many millions which are dayly brought out of Peru into Spaine, wee may

easily beleeue the same: for we finde that by the abundant treasure of

that countrey the Spanish king vexeth all the princes of Europe, and is

become in a few yeeres, from a poore king of Castile, the greatest

monarch of this part of the world, and likely euery day to increase, if

other princes forslow the good occasions offered, and suffer him to adde

this empire to the rest, which by farre exceedeth all the rest: if his

golde now endanger vs, hee will then be vnresistable. Such of the

Spanyards as afterward endeuoured the conquest thereof (whereof there

haue bene many, as shall be declared hereafter) thought that this Inga

(of whom this emperour now liuing is descended) tooke his way by the

riuer of Amazones, by that branch which is called Papamene: for by that

way followed Orellana (by the commandement of Gonzalo Piçarro, in the

yere 1542) whose name the riuer also beareth this day, which is also by

others called Marannon, although Andrew Theuet doeth affirme that

betweene Marannon and Amazones there are 120 leagues: but sure it is

that those riuers haue one head and beginning, and the Marannon, which

Theuet describeth, is but a branch of Amazones or Orellana, of which I

will speake more in another place. [Sidenote: Iuan Martinez the first

that euer saw Manoa.] It was attempted by Ordas; but it is now little

lesse then 70 yeres since that Diego Ordas, a knight of the order of

Saint Iago attempted the same: and it was in the yeere 1542 that

Orellana discovered the riuer of Amazones: but the first that euer saw

Manoa was Iuan Martinez master of the munition to Ordas. At a port

called Morequito in Guiana there lieth at this day a great anker of

Ordas his ship; and this port is some 300 miles within the land, vpon

the great riuer of Orenoque.

I rested at this port foure dayes: twenty dayes after I left the ships

at Curiapan. The relation of this Martinez (who was the first that

discouered Manoa) his successe and ende are to bee seene in the Chancery

of Saint Iuan de Puerto rico, whereof Berreo had a copy, which appeared

to be the greatest incouragement aswell to Berreo as to others that

formerly attempted the discouery and conquest. Orellana after he failed

of the discouery of Guiana by the sayd riuer of Amazones, passed into

Spaine, and there obteined a patent of the king for the inuasion and

conquest, but died by sea about the Islands, and his fleet seuered by

tempest, the action for that time proceeded not. [Sidenote: Diego de

Ordas went foorth with 600 souldiers 1531.] Diego Ordas followed the

enterprise, and departed Spaine with 600 souldiers, and 30 horse, who

arriuing on the coast of Guiana, was slaine in a mutiny, with the most

part of such as fauoured him, as also of the rebellious part, insomuch

as his ships perished, and few or none returned, neither was it

certeinly knowen what became of the sayd Ordas, vntill Berreo found the

anker of his ship in the riuer of Orenoque; but it was supposed, and so

it is written by Lopez, that he perished on the seas, and of other

writers diuersely conceiued and reported. [Sidenote: Fran. Lopez hist.

gen. de las Ind. cap. 87.] And hereof it came that Martinez entred so

farre within the land, and arriued at that city of Inga the emperour;

for it chanced that while Ordas with his army rested at the port of

Morequito (who was either the first or second that attempted Guiana) by

some negligence, the whole store of powder prouided for the seruice was

set on fire: and Martinez hauing the chiefe charge, was condemned by the

Generall Ordas to be executed foorthwith: Martinez being much fauoured

by the souldiers, had all the meanes possible procured for his life; but

it could not be obteined in other sort than this: That he should be set

into a canao alone without any victuall, onely with his armes, and so

turned loose into the great riuer: but it pleased God that the canoa was

caried downe the streame, and that certeine of the Guianians mette it

the same euening; [Sidenote: The great city of Manao or El Dorado.] and

hauing not at any time seene any Christian, nor any man of that colour,

they caried Martinez into the land to be woondred at, and so from towne

to towne, vntill he came to the great city of Manoa, the seat and

residence of Inga the emperour. The emperour after he had beheld him,

knew him to be a Christian (for it was not long before that his brethren

Guascar and Atabalipa were vanquished by the Spanyards in Peru) and

caused him to be lodged in his palace, and well interteined. Hee liued

seuen moneths in Manoa, but was not suffered to wander into the countrey

any where. He was also brought thither all the way blindfold, led by the

Indians, vntill he came to the entrance of Manoa it selfe, and was

fourteene or fifteene dayes in the passage. He auowed at his death that

he entred the city at Noon, and then they vncouered his face, and that

he trauelled all that day till night thorow the city, and the next day

from Sun rising to Sun setting yer he came to the palace of Inga. After

that Martinez had liued seuen moneths in Manoa, and began to vnderstand

the language of the countrey, Inga asked him whether he desired to

returne into his owne countrey, or would willingly abide with him. But

Martinez not desirous to stay, obteined the fauour of Inga to depart:

with whom he sent diuers Guianians to conduct him to the riuer of

Orenoque, all loden with as much golde as they could cary, which he gaue

to Martinez at his departure: but when he was arriued neere the riuers

side, the borderers which are called Orenoqueponi robbed him and his

Guianians of all the treasure (the borderers being at that time at

warres, which Inga had not conquered) saue only of two great bottels of

gourds, which were filled with beads of golde curiously wrought, which

those Orenoqueponi thought had bene no other thing then his drinke or

meat, or graine for food, with which Martinez had liberty to passe: and

so in canoas hee fell downe from the riuer of Orenoque to Trinidad, and

from thence to Margarita, and also to Saint Iuan de puerto rico, where

remaining a long time for passage into Spaine, he died. In the time of

his extreme sicknesse, and when he was without hope of life, receiuing

the Sacrament at the hands of his Confessor, he deliuered these things,

with the relation of his trauels, and also called for his calabaças or

gourds of the golde beads which he gaue to the church and friers to be

prayed for. [Sidenote: The author of the name of El Dorado.] This

Martinez was he that Christened the city of Manoa by the name of El

Dorado, and as Berreo informed mee, vpon this occasion: Those Guianians,

and also the borderers, and all other in that tract which I haue seene

are maruellous great drunkards; in which vice, I thinke no nation can

compare with them: and at the times of their solemne feasts, when the

emperour carowseth with his captaines, tributaries, and gouernours, the

maner is thus: All those that pledge him are first stripped naked, and

their bodies anointed all ouer with a kind of white balsamum (by them

called curca) of which there is great plenty, and yet very deare amongst

them, and it is of all other the most precious, whereof wee haue had

good experience: when they are anointed all ouer, certeine seruants of

the emperour, hauing prepared golde made into fine powder, blow it

thorow hollow canes vpon their naked bodies, vntill they be all shining

from the foot to the head: and in this sort they sit drinking by

twenties and hundreds, and continue in drunkennesse sometimes sixe or

seuen dayes together. [Sidenote: Sir Robert Duddeley.] The same is also

confirmed by a letter written into Spaine, which was intercepted, which

M. Robert Duddeley tolde me he had seene. Vpon this sight, and for the

abundance of golde which he saw in the city, the images of golde in

their temples, the plates, armours, and shields of gold which they vse

in the warres, he called it El Dorado. After the death of Ordas and

Martinez, and after Orellana, who was imployed by Gonzalo Piçarro, one

Pedro de Osua a knight of Nauarre attempted Guiana, taking his way from

Peru, and built his brigandines vpon a riuer called Oia, which riseth to

the Southward of Quito, and is very great. This riuer falleth into

Amazones, by which Osua with his companies descended, and came out of

that prouince which is called Mutylonez: and it seemeth to mee that this

empire is reserued for her Maiesty and the English nation, by reason of

the hard successe which all these and other Spanyards found in

attempting the same, whereof I will speake briefly, though impertinent

in some sort to my purpose. [Sidenote: Reade Iosephus Acosta.] This

Pedro de Osua had among his troups a Biscain, called Agiri, a man meanly

borne, who bare no other office then a sergeant or alferez: but after

certaine moneths, when the souldiers were grieued with trauels, and

consumed with famine, and that no entrance could be found by the

branches or body of Amazones, this Agiri raised a mutiny, of which hee

made himselfe the head, and so preuailed, as he put Osua to the sword,

and all his followers, taking on him the whole charge and commandement,

with a purpose not onely to make himselfe emperour of Guiana, but also

of Peru, and of all that side of the West Indies: he had of his party

seuen hundred souldiers, and of those many promised to draw in other

captaines and companies, to deliuer vp townes and forts in Peru: but

neither finding by the sayd riuer any passage into Guiana, nor any

possibility to returne towards Peru by the same Amazones, by reason that

the descent of the riuer made so great a current, he was inforced to

disemboque at the mouth of the sayd Amazones, which can not be lesse

then a thousand leagues from the place where they imbarked: from thence

be coasted the land till he arriued at Margarita: [Sidenote: The voyage

of sir Iohn Burgh to the West Indies.] to the North of Mompatar, which

is at this day called Puerto de Tyranno, for that he there slew Don Iuan

de villa Andreda, gouernour of Margarita when sir Iohn Burgh landed

there and attempted the Island. Agiri put to the sword all other in the

Island that refused to be of his party, and tooke with him certeine

Simerones, and other desperate companions. From thence he went to

Cumana, and there slew the gouernour, and dealt in all as at Margarita:

hee spoiled all the coast of Caracas, and the prouince of Venezuela, and

of Rio de la hacha; and as I remember, it was the same yere that sir

Iohn Hawkins sailed to Saint Iuan de Vllua in the Iesus of Lubeck: for

himselfe tolde me that he met with such a one vpon the coast that

rebelled, and had sailed downe all the riuer of Amazones. Agiri from

thence landed about Sancta Marta, and sacked it also, putting to death

so many as refused to be his followers, purposing to inuade Nueuo reyno

de Granada, and to sacke Pamplon, Merida, Lagrita, Tunxa, and the rest

of the cities of Nueuo reyno, and from thence againe to enter Peru: but

in a fight in the sayd Nueuo reyno he was ouerthrowen, and finding no

way to escape, he first put to the sword his owne children, foretelling

them that they should not liue to be defamed or vpbraided by the

Spanyards after his death, who would haue termed them the children of a

traitour or tyrant; and that sithence hee could not make them princes,

hee would yet deliuer them from shame and reproche. These were the ends

and tragedies of Ordas, Martinez, Oreliana, Ozua, and Agiri.

[Sidenote: 1532. Gomar. cap. 84 and 86.] Also soone after Ordas followed

Ieronimo Ortal de Saragosa with 130 souldiers, who failing his entrance

by sea, was cast with the current on the coast of Paria, and peopled

about S. Miguel de Neueri. It was then attempted by Don Pedro de Silua,

a Portugues of the family of Ruigomes de Silua, and by the fauour which

Ruigomes had with the king, he was set out, but he also shot wide of the

marke; for being departed from Spaine with his fleete, he entered by

Marannon and Amazones, where by the nations of the riuer, and by the

Amazones hee was vttlerly ouerthrowen, and himselfe and all his armie

defeated, only seuen escaped, and of those but two returned.

After him came Pedro Hernandez de Serpa, and landed at Cumana in the

West Indies, taking his iourney by and towards Orenoque, which may be

some 120 leagues: but ther he came to the borders of the sayd riuer, hee

was set vpon by a nation of the Indians called Wikiri, and ouerthrowen

in such sort, that of 300 souldiers, horsemen, many Indians, and Negros,

there returned but 18. Others affirme, that he was defeated in the very

entrance of Guiana, at the first ciuil towne of the empire called

Macureguarai. Captaine Preston in taking S. Iago de Leon (which was by

him and his companies very resolutely performed, being a great towne,

and farre within the land) held a gentleman prisoner, who died in his

ship, that was one of the company of Hermandez de Serpa, and saued among

those that escaped, who witnessed what opinion is held among the

Spanyards thereabouts of the great riches of Guiana, and El Dorado the

city of Inga. Another Spanyard was brought aboord me by captaine

Preston, who told me in the hearing of himselfe and diuers other

gentlemen, that he met with Berreos campe-master at Caracas, when he

came from the borders of Guiana, and that he saw with him forty of most

pure plates of golde curiously wrought, and swords of Guiana decked and

inlayed with gold, feathers garnished with golde and diuers rarities

which he carried to the Spanish king.

After Hernandez de Serpa, it was undertaken by the Adelantado, Don

Gonzales Ximenes de Casada, who was one of the chiefest in the conquest

of Nueuo reino, whose daughter and heire Don Antonio de Berreo maried.

Gonzales sought the passage also by the riuer called Papamene, which

riseth by Quito in Peru, and runneth Southeast 100 leagues, and then

falleth into Amazones, but he also failing the entrance, returned with

the losse of much labour and cost. I tooke one captaine George a

Spanyard that followed Gonzales in this enterprise. Gonzales gaue his

daughter to Berreo, taking his oth and honour to follow the enterprise

to the last of his substance and life, who since, as he hath sworne to

me, hath spent 300000 ducats in the same, and yet never could enter so

far into the land as my selfe with that poore troupe or rather a

handfull of men, being in all about 100 gentlemen, souldiers, rowers,

boat-keepers, boyes, and of all sorts: neither could any of the

forepassed vndertakers, nor Berreo himselfe, discouer the countrey, till

now lately by conference with an ancient king called Carapana, he got

the true light thereof: for Berreo came about 1500 miles yer he

vnderstood ought, or could finde any passage or entrance into any part

thereof, yet he had experience of al these forenamed, and diuers others,

and was perswaded of their errors and mistakings. Berreo sought it by

the river Cassamar,[55] which falleth into a great riuer called Pato:

Pato falleth into Meta, and Meta into Baraquan, which is also called

Orenoque.

[55] Casanare.

He tooke his journey from Nueuo reyno de Granada where he dwelt, hauing

the inheritance of Gonzales Ximenes in those parts: he was followed with

700 horse, he draue with him 1000 head of cattell, he had also many

women, Indians, and slaues. How all these riuers crosse and encounter,

how the countrey lieth and is bordered, the passage of Ximenes and

Berreo, mine owne discouery, and the way that I entred, with all the

rest of the nations and riuers, your lordship shall receiue in a large

Chart or Map, which I haue not yet finished, and which I shall most

humbly pray your lordship to secret, and not to suffer it to passe your

owne hands: for by a draught thereof all may be preuented by other

nations: for I know it is this very yeere sought by the French, although

by the way that they now take, I feare it not much. [Sidenote: A new and

rich trade of the French to the riuer of Amazones.] It was also tolde me

yer I departed from England, that Villiers the Admirall was in

preparation for the planting of Amazones, to which riuer the French haue

made diuers voyages and returned much golde, and other rarities. I spake

with the captaine of a French ship that came from thence, his ship

riding in Falmouth the same yere that my ships came first from Virginia.

There was another this yeere in Helford that also came from thence, and

had bene foureteene moneths at an anker in Amazones, which were both

very rich. Although, as I am perswaded, Guiana cannot be entred that

way, yet no doubt the trade of gold from thence passeth by branches of

riuers into the riuer of Amazones, and so it doth on euery hand far from

the countrey it selfe; for those Indians of Trinidad haue plates of

golde from Guiana, and those canibals of Dominica which dwell in the

Islands by which our ships passe yerely to the West Indies, also the

Indians of Paria, those Indians called Tucaris, Chochi, Apotomios,

Cumanagotos, and all those other nations inhabiting neere about the

mountaines that run from Paria thorow the prouince of Venezuela, and in

Maracapana, and the canibals of Guanipa, the Indians called Assawai,

Coaca, Aiai, and the rest (all which shall be described in my

description as they are situate) haue plates of golde of Guiana. And

vpon the riuer of Amazones, Theuet writeth that the people weare

croissants of golde, for of that forme the Guianians most commonly make

them: so as from Dominica to Amazones, which is aboue 250 leagues, all

the chiefe Indians in all parts weare of those plates of Guiana.

Vndoubtedly those that trade Amazones returne much golde, which (as is

aforesayd) commeth by trade from Guiana, by some branch of a riuer that

falleth from the countrey into Amazones, and either it is by the riuer

which passeth by the nations called Tisnados, or by Carepuna. I made

inquiry amongst the most ancient and best travelled of the Orenoqueponi,

and I had knowledge of all the riuers betweene Orenoque and Amazones,

and was very desirous to vnderstand the truth of those warlike women,

because of some it is beleeued, of others not. And though I digresse

from my purpose, yet I will set downe that which hath bene deliuered me

for trueth of those women, and I spake with a casique or lord of people,

that told me he had bene in the riuer, and beyond it also. [Sidenote:

The seat of the Amazones.] The nations of these women are on the South

side of the riuer in the prouinces of Topago, and their chiefest

strengths and retracts are in the Islands situate on the South side of

the entrance some 60 leagues within the mouth of the sayd riuer. The

memories of the like women are very ancient aswell in Africa and in

Asia: In Africa those that had Medusa for queene: others in Scithia nere

the riuers of Tanais and Thermodon: we finde also that Lampedo and

Marthesia were queenes of the Amazones: in many histories they are

verified to haue bene, and in diuers ages and prouinces: but they which

are not far from Guiana doe accompany with men but once in a yere, and

for the time of one moneth, which I gather by their relation, to be in

April: and that time all kings of the borders assemble, and queenes of

the Amazones: and after the queenes haue chosen, the rest cast lots for

their Valentines. This one moneth, they feast, dance, and drinke of

their wines in abundance; and the Moone being done, they all depart to

their owne prouinces. If they conceiue, and be deliuered of a sonne,

they returne him to the father; if of a daughter they nourish it, and

reteine it: and as many as haue daughters send vnto the begetters a

present; all being desirous to increase their owne sex and kind: but

that they cut off the right dug of the brest, I doe not finde to be

true. It was farther tolde me, that if in these warres they tooke any

prisoners that they vsed to accompany with those also at what time

soeuer, but in the end for certeine they put them to death: for they are

sayd to be very cruell and bloodthirsty, especially to such as offer to

inuade their territories. These Amazones haue likewise great store of

these plates of golde, which they recouer by exchange chiefly for a

kinde of greene stones, which the Spanyards call Piedras hijadas, and we

vse for spleene stones: and for the disease of the stone we also esteeme

them. Of these I saw diuers in Guiana: and commonly euery king or

casique hath one, which their wiues for the most part weare: and they

esteeme them as great iewels.

But to returne to the enterprise of Bereo, who (as I haue sayd) departed

from Nueuo reyno with 700 horse, besides the prouisions aboue rehearsed,

he descended by the riuer called Cassanar, which riseth in Nueuo reyno

out of the mountaines by the city of Tunia, from which mountaine also

springeth Pato: both which fall into the great riuer of Meta: and Meta

riseth from a mountaine ioyning to Pampion in the same Nueuo reyno de

Grenada. These, as also Guaiare, which issueth out of the mountaines by

Timana, fall all into Baraquan, and are but of his heads: for at their

comming together they lose their names: and Baraquan farther downe is

also rebaptized by the name of Orenoque. On the other side of the city

and hilles of Timana riseth Rio grande, which falleth in the sea by

Sancta Marta. By Cassanar first, and so into Meta, Berreo passed,

keeping his horsemen on the banks, where the countrey serued them for to

march, and where otherwise, he was driuen to imbarke them in boats which

he builded for the purpose, and so came with the current downe the riuer

of Meta, and so into Baraquan. After he entred that great and mighty

riuer, he began dayly to lose of his companies both men and horse: for

it is in many places violently swift, and hath forcible eddies, many

sands, and diuers Islands sharp pointed with rocks: but after one whole

yeere, iourneying for the most part by riuer and the rest by land, he

grew dayly to fewer numbers: for both by sicknesse, and by encountring

with the people of those regions, thorow which he trauelled, his

companies were much wasted, especially by diuers encounters with the

Amapians: and in all this time hee neuer could learne of any passage

into Guiana, nor any newes or fame thereof, vntill he came to a further

border of the sayd Amapaia, eight dayes iourney from the riuer Caroli,

which was the furthest riuer that he entred. Among those of Amapaia,

Guiana was famous, but few of these people accosted Berreo, or would

trade with him the first three moneths of the six, which he soiourned

there. This Amapaia is also maruellous rich in golde (as both Berreo

confessed and those of Guiana with whom I had most conference) and is

situate vpon Orenoque also. In this countrey Berreo lost 60 of his best

souldiers, and most of all his horse that remained in his former yeeres

trauell: but in the end, after diuers encounters with those nations,

they grew to peace; and they presented Berreo with tenne images of fine

golde among diuers other plates and croissants, which, as he sware to me

and diuers other gentlemen, were so curiously wrought, as he had not

seene the like either in Italy, Spaine, or the Low countreys: and he was

resolued, that when he came to the hands of the Spanish king, to whom he

had sent them by his camp-master, they would appeare very admirable,

especially being wrought by such a nation as had no yron instruments at

all, nor any of those helps which our goldsmiths haue to worke withall.

The particular name of the people in Amapaia which gaue him these

pieces, are called Anebas, and the riuer of Orenoque at that place is

aboue 12 English miles broad, which may be from his out fall into the

sea 700 or 800 miles.

This prouince of Amapaia is a very low and a marish ground nere the

riuer; and by reason of the red water which issueth out in small

branches thorow the fenny and boggy ground; there breed diuers

poisonfull wormes and serpents: and the Spanyards not suspecting, nor in

any sort foreknowing the danger, were infected with a grieuous kinde of

fluxe by drinking thereof; and euen the very horses poisoned therewith:

insomuch as at the end of the 6 moneths, that they abode their, of all

there troups, there were not left aboue 120 souldiers, and neither horse

nor cattell: for Berreo hoped to haue found Guiana by 1000 miles nerer

then it fel out to be in the end: by meanes whereof they sustained much

want and much hunger, oppressed with grieuous diseases, and all the

miseries that could be imagined. I demanded of those in Guiana that had

trauelled Amapaia, how they liued with that tawny or red water when they

trauelled thither: and they tolde me that after the Sun was neere the

middle of the skie, they vsed to fill their pots and pitchers with that

water, but either before that time, or towardes the setting of the Sun

it was dangerous to drinke of, and in the night strong poison. I learned

also of diuers other riuers of that nature among them, which were also

(while the Sun was in the Meridian) very safe to drinke, and in the

morning, euening, and night woonderfull dangerous and infectiue. From

this prouince Berreo hasted away assoone as the Spring and beginning of

Summer appeared, and sought his entrance on the borders of Orenoque on

the South side: but there ran a ledge of so high and impassable

mountaines, as he was not able by any meanes to march ouer them,

continuing from the East sea into which Orenoque falleth, euen to Quito

in Peru: neither had he meanes to cary victuall or munition ouer those

craggie, high, and fast hilles, being all woody, and those so thicke and

spiny, and so full of prickles, thornes, and briers, as it is impossible

to creepe thorow them: hee had also neither friendship among the people,

nor any interpreter to perswade or treat with them: and more, to his

disaduantage, the casiques and kings of Amapaia had giuen knowledge of

his purpose to the Guianians, and that he sought to sacke and conquer

the empire, for the hope of their so great abundance and quantities of

golde: he passed by the mouthes of many great riuers, which fell into

Orenoque both from the North and South, which I forbeare to name for

tediousnesse, and because they are more pleasing in describing then

reading.

[Sidenote: Many great riuers falling into Orenoque.] Berreo affirmed

that there fell an hundred riuers into Orenoque from the North and

South, whereof the least was as big as Rio grande, that passed betweene

Popayan and Nueuo reyno de Granada (Rio Grande being esteemed one of the

renowmed riuers in all the West Indies, and numbred among the great

riuers of the world:) but he knew not the names of any of these, but

Caroli onely; neither from what nations they descended, neither to what

prouinces they led: for he had no meanes to discourse with the

inhabitants at any time: neither was he curious in these things, being

vtterly vnlearned, and not knowing the East from the West. But of all

these I got some knowledge, and of many more, partly by mine owne

trauell, and the rest by conference: of some one I learned one, of

others the rest, hauing with me an Indian that spake many languages, and

that of Guiana naturally. I sought out all the aged men, and such as

were greatest travellers, and by the one and the other I came to

vnderstand the situations, the riuers, the kingdomes from the East sea

to the borders of Peru, and from Orenoque Southward as farre as Amazones

or Marannon, and the religions of Maria Tamball, and of all the kings of

prouinces, and captaines of townes and villages, how they stood in

tearmes of peace or warre, and which were friends or enemies the one

with the other, without which there can be neither entrance nor conquest

in those parts, nor elsewhere: for by the dissention betweene Guascar

and Atabalipa, Piçarro conquered Peru, and by the hatred that the

Tlaxcallians have to Mutezuma, Cortez was victorious ouer Mexico:

without which both the one and the other had failed of their enterprise,

and of the great honour and riches which they atteined vnto.

[Sidenote: The prouince of Emeria inhabited by gentle Indians.] Now

Berreo began to grow into dispaire, and looked for no other successe

then his predecessor in this enterprise, vntill such time as hee arriued

at the prouince of Emeria towards the East sea and mouth of the riuer,

where he found a nation of people very fauourable, and the countrey full

of all maner of victuall. The king of this land is called Carapana, a

man very wise, subtill, and of great experience, being little lesse then

an hundred yeeres olde: in his youth he was sent by his father into the

Island of Trinidad, by reason of ciuill warre among themselues, and was

bred at a village in that island, called Parico: at that place in his

youth hee had seene many Christians, both French and Spanish, and went

diuers times with the Indians of Trinidad to Margarita and Cumana in the

West Indies (for both those places haue euer beene relieued with

victuall from Trinidad) by reason whereof he grew of more vnderstanding,

and noted the difference of the nations, comparing the strength and

armes of his countrey with those of the Christians, and euer after

temporized so, as whosoeuer els did amisse, or was wasted by contention,

Carapana kept himselfe and his countrey in quiet and plenty: he also

held peace with the Caribes or Canibals his neighbours, and had free

trade with all nations, whosoeuer els had warre.

Berreo soiourned and rested his weake troupe in the towne of Carapana

sixe weeks, and from him learned the way and passage to Guiana, and the

riches and magnificence thereof: but being then vtterly disable to

proceed, he determined to try his fortune another yere, when he had

renewed his prouisions, and regathered more force, which hee hoped for

as well out of Spaine as from Nueuo reyno, where hee had left his sonne

Don Antonio Ximenes to second him vpon the first notice giuen of his

entrance, and so for the present imbarked himselfe in canoas, and by the

branches of Orenoque arriued at Trinidad, hauing from Carapana

sufficient pilots to conduct him. From Trinidad he coasted Paria, and so

recouered Margarita: and hauing made relation to Don Iuan Sermiento the

gouernour, of his proceeding and perswaded him of the riches of Guiana,

he obteined from thence fifty souldiers, promising presently to returne

to Carapana, and so into Guiana. But Berreo meant nothing lesse at that

time: for he wanted many prouisions necessary for such an enterprise,

and therefore departed from Margarita, seated himselfe in Trinidad, and

from thence sent his camp-master, and his sergeant-maior backe to the

borders to discouer the neerest passage into the empire, as also to

treat with the borderers, and to draw them to his party and loue:

without which, he knew he could neither passe safely, nor in any sort be

relieued with victuall or ought els. Carapana directed his company to a

king called Morequito, assuring them that no man could deliuer so much

of Guiana as Morequito could, and that his dwelling was but fiue dayes

journey from Macureguarai, the first ciuill towne of Guiana.

[Sidenote: Vides the gouernour of Cumana competitor with Berreo in the

conquest of Guiana.] Now your lordship shall vnderstand, that this

Morequito, one of the greatest lords or kings of the borders of Guiana,

had two or three yeeres before bene at Cumana and at Margarita, in the

West Indies, with great store of plates of golde, which he caried to

exchange for such other things as he wanted in his owne countrey, and

was dayly feasted, and presented by the gouernours of those places, and

held amongst them some two moneths, in which time one Vides gouernour of

Cumana wanne him to be his conductour into Guiana, being allured by

those croissants and images of golde which hee brought with him to

trade, as also by the ancient fame and magnificence of El Dorado:

whereupon Vides sent into Spaine for a patent to discouer and conquer

Guiana, not knowing of the precedence of Berreos patent, which, as

Berreo affirmeth, was signed before that of Vides: so as when Vides

vnderstood of Berreo, and that he had made entrance into that territory,

and forgone his desire and hope, it was verily thought that Vides

practised with Morequito to hinder and disturbe Berreo in all he could,

and not to suffer him to enter thorow his signorie, nor any of his

companies; neither to victuall, nor guide them in any sort; for Vides

gouernour of Cumana, and Berreo, were become mortall enemies, aswell for

that Berreo had gotten Trinidad into his patent with Guiana, as also in

that he was by Berreo preuented in the iourney of Guiana it selfe:

howsoeuer it was, I know not, but Morequito for a time dissembled his

disposition, suffered Spanyards, and a frier (which Berreo had sent to

discouer Manoa) to trauell thorow his countrey, gaue them a guide for

Macureguaray, the first towne of ciuill and apparelled people, from

whence they had other guides to bring them to Manoa the great city of

Inga: [Sidenote: Ten Spanyards arriue at Manoa.] and being furnished

with those things which they had learned of Carapana were of most price

in Guiana, went onward, and in eleuen dayes arriued at Manoa, as Berreo

affirmeth for certaine: although I could not be assured thereof by the

lord which now gouerneth the prouince of Morequito, for he tolde me that

they got all the golde they had, in other townes on this side Manoa,

there being many very great and rich, and (as he sayd) built like the

townes of Christians, with many roomes.

When these ten Spaniards were returned, and ready to put out of the

border of Aromaia, the people of Morequito set vpon them, and slew them

all but one that swam the riuer, and tooke from them to the value of

forty thousand pezos of golde: and one of them onely liued to bring the

newes to Berreo, that both his nine souldiers and holy father were

benighted in the said prouince. I my selfe spake with the captaines of

Morequito that slew them, and was at the place where it was executed.

Berreo, inraged heerewithall, sent all the strength he could make into

Aromaia, to be reuenged of him, his people, and countrey. But Morequito

suspecting the same, fled ouer Orenoque, and thorow the territories of

the Saima, and Wikiri, recouered Cumana, where he thought himself very

safe, with Vides the gouernour. But Berreo sending for him in the Kings

name, and his messengers finding him in the house of one Fashardo on the

sudden yer he was suspected, so as he could not then be conueyed away,

Vides durst not deny him, aswell to avoid the suspition of this

practise, as also for that an holy father was slaine by him and his

people. [Sidenote: Morequito executed.] Morequito offered Fashardo the

weight of three quintals in golde, to let him escape: but the poore

Guianian betrayed on all sides was delivered to the camp-master of

Berreo, and was presently executed.

After the death of this Morequito, the souldiers of Berreo spoiled his

territorie, and tooke diuers prisoners, among others they tooke the vncle

of Morequito, called Topiawari, who is now king of Aromaia (whose sonne

I brought with me into England) and is a man of great vnderstanding and

policy: he is aboue an hundred yeeres olde, and yet of a very able body.

The Spaniards ledde him in a chaine seuenteene dayes, and made him

their guide from place to place betweene his countrey and Emeria, the

prouince of Carapana, aforesayd, and he was at last redeemed for an

hundred plates of golde, and diuers stones called Piedras Hijadas, or

Spleene-stones. [Sidenote: The towne of Carapana is the port of Guiana.]

Now Berreo for executing of Morequito, and other cruelties, spoiles, and

slaughters done in Armonaia, hath lost the loue of the Orenoqueponi, and

all the borderers, and dare not send any of his souldiers any further

into the land then to Carapana, which he called the port of Guiana: but

from thence by the helpe of Carapana he had trade further into the

countrey, and alwayes appointed ten Spaniards to reside in Carapanas

towne, by whose fauour, and by being conducted by his people, those ten

searched the countrey thereabouts, aswell for mines, as for other trades

and commodities.

They also haue gotten a nephew of Morequito, whom they haue Christened,

and named Don Iuan, of whom they haue great hope, endeuouring by all

meanes to establish him in the sayd prouince. [Sidenote: Some fewe

Spaniards are now seated in Dissequebe.] Among many other trades, those

Spaniards vsed canoas to passe to the riuers of Barema, Pawroma, and

Dissequebe, which are on the south side of the mouth of Orenoque, and

there buy women and children from the Canibals, which are of that

barbarous nature, as they will for three or foure hatchets sell the

sonnes and daughters of their owne brethren and sisters, and for

somewhat more, euen their owne daughters. Hereof the Spaniards make

great profit: for buying a maid of twelue or thirteene yeres for three

or foure hatchets, they sell them againe at Margarita in the West Indies

for fifty and an hundred pezos, which is so many crownes.

The master of my shippe, Iohn Dowglas, tooke one of the canoas which

came laden from thence with people to be solde, and the most of them

escaped: yet of those he brought, there was one as well fauoured, and as

well shaped as euer I saw any in England, afterward I saw many of them,

which but for their tawnie colour may be compared to any of Europe. They

also trade in those riuers for bread of Cassaui, of which they buy an

hundred pound weight for a knife, and sell it at Margarita for ten

pezos. They also recouer great store of Cotton, Brasill wood, and those

beds which they call Hamcas or Brasill beds, wherein in hot countreyes

all the Spaniards vse to lie commonly, and in no other, neither did we

our selues while we were there. By meanes of which trades, for ransome

of diuers of the Guianians, and for exchange of hatchets and kniues,

Berreo recouered some store of golde plates, eagles of golde, and images

of men and diuers birdes, and dispatched his campe-master for Spaine,

with all that hee had gathered, therewith to leuie souldiers, and by the

shew thereof to draw others to the loue of the enterprise. And hauing

sent diuers images aswell of men as beasts, birds and fishes, so

curiously wrought in gold, he doubted not but to perswade the king to

yeeld to him some further helpe, especially for that this land had neuer

beene sacked, the mines neuer wrought, and in the Indies their works

were well spent, and the golde drawen out with great labour and charge.

He also dispatched messengers to his sonne in Nueuo reyno to leuie all

the forces he could, and to come downe the riuer Orenoque to Emeria, the

prouince of Carapana, to meet him: he had also sent to Saint Iago de

Leon on the coast of the Caracas, to buy horses and mules.

After I had thus learned of his proceedings past and purposed, I told

him that I had resolued to see Guiana, and that it was the end of my

iourney, and the cause of my comming to Trinidad, as it was indeed, (and

for that purpose I sent Iacob Whiddon the yeere before to get

intelligence with whom Berreo himselfe had speech at that time, and

remembred how inquisitiue Iacob Whiddon was of his proceedings, and of

the countrey of Guiana) Berreo was stricken into a great melancholy and

sadnesse, and vsed all the arguments he could to disswade me, and also

assured the gentlemen of my company that it would be labour lost, and

that they should suffer many miseries if they proceeded. And first he

deliuered that I could not enter any of the riuers with any barke or

pinnesse, or hardly with any ships boat, it was so low, sandy, and full

of flats, and that his companies were dayly grounded in their canoas,

which drew but twelue inches water. He further sayde, that none of the

countrey would come to speake with vs, but would all flie: and if we

followed them to their dwellings, they would burne their owne townes:

and besides that, the way was long, the Winter at hand, and that the

riuers beginning once to swell, it was impossible to stem the current,

and that we could not in those small boats by any means cary victuall

for halfe the time, and that (which indeed most discouraged my company)

the kings and lords of all the borders of Guiana had decreed that none

of them should trade with any Christians for golde, because the same

would be their owne ouerthrow, and that for the loue of gold the

Christians meant to conquer and dispossesse them of all together.

Many and the most of these I found to be true, but yet I resoluing to

make triall of all whatsoever happened, directed Captaine George Gifford

my vice-admirall to take the Lions whelpe, and captaine Calfield his

barke to turne to the Eastward, against the mouth of a riuer called

Capuri, whose entrance I had before sent captaine Whiddon, and Iohn

Dowglas the master, to discouer, who found some nine foot water or

better vpon the flood, and fiue at low water, to whom I had giuen

instructions that they should anker at the edge of the shoald, and vpon

the best of the flood to thrust ouer, which shoald Iohn Dowglas bwoyed

and beckoned for them before: but they laboured in vaine: for neither

could they turne it vp altogether so farre to the East, neither did the

flood continue so long, but the water fell yer they could haue passed

the sands: as wee after found by a second experience; so as now wee must

either give ouer our enterprise, or leauing our ships at aduenture foure

hundred mile behinde vs, must run vp in our ships boats, one barge, and

two wheries. But being doubtfull how to cary victuals for so long a time

in such bables, or any strength of men, especially for that Berreo

assured vs that his sonne must be by that time come downe with many

souldiers. I sent away one King, master of the Lions whelpe, with his

shipboat to trie another branch of a riuer in the bottome of the bay of

Guanipa, which was called Amana, to prooue if there were water to be

found for either of the small ships to enter. But when he came to the

mouth of Amana, he found it as the rest, but stayed not to discouer it

thorowly, because he was assured by an Indian, his guide, that the

Canibals of Guanipa would assaile them with many canoas, and that they

shot poisoned arrowes: so as if he hasted not backe, they should all be

lost.

In the mean time, fearing the woorst, I caused all the carpenters we

had, to cut downe a Galego boat, which we meant to cast off, and to fit

her with banks to row on, and in all things to prepare her the best they

could, so as she might be brought to draw but fiue foot, for so much we

had on the barre of Capuri at low water. And doubting of Kings returne,

I sent Iohn Dowglas againe in my long barge, aswell to relieue him, as

also to make a perfect search in the bottome of that bay: for it hath

bene held for infallible, that whatsoeuer ship or boat shall fall

therein, can neuer disembogue againe, by reason of the violent current

which setteth into the sayde-bay, as also for that the brize and

Easterly winde bloweth directly into the same. Of which opinion I haue

heard Iohn Hampton of Plymmouth, one of the greatest experience of

England, and diuers other besides that haue traded to Trinidad.

I sent with Iohn Dowglas an old casique of Trinidad for a pilot, who

tolde vs that we could not returne againe by the bay or gulfe, but that

he knew a by-branch which ran within the land to the Eastward, and that

he thought by it we might fall into Capuri, and so returne in foure

dayes. Iohn Dowglas searched those riuers, and found foure goodly

entrances, whereof the least was as bigge as the Thames at Wolwich; but

in the bay thitherward it was shoald, and but sixe foote water: so as we

were now without hope of any ship or barke to passe ouer, and therefore

resolued to go on with the boats, and the bottome of the Galego, in

which we thrust 60 men. In the Lions whelps boat and whery we caried 20.

Captaine Calfield in his whery caried ten more, and in my barge other

tenne, which made vp a hundred: we had no other meanes but to cary

victuall for a moneth in the same, and also to lodge therein as we

could, and to boile and dresse our meat. Captaine Gifford had with him

master Edward Porter, captaine Eynos, and eight more in his whery, with

all their victuall, weapons, and prouisions. Captaine Calfield had with

him my cousin Butshead Gorges, and eight more. In the galley, of

gentlemen and officers my selfe had captaine Thin, my cousin Iohn

Greenuile, my nephew Iohn Gilbert, captaine Whiddon, captaine Keymis,

Edward Handcocke, captaine Clarke, lieutenant Hewes, Thomas Vpton,

captaine Facy, Ierome Ferrar, Anthony Welles, William Connocke, and

aboue fifty more. We could not learne of Berreo any other way to enter

but in branches, so farre to wind-ward, as it was impossible for vs to

recouer: for wee had as much sea to crosse ouer in our wheries, as

betweene Douer and Calais, and in a great billow, the winde and current

being both very strong, so as we were driuen to goe in those small boats

directly before the winde into the bottome of the bay of Guanipa, and

from thence to enter the mouth of some one of those riuers which Iohn

Dowglas had last discouered, and had with vs for pilot an Indian of

Barema, a riuer to the South of Orenoque, betweene that and Amazones,

whose canoas we had formerly taken as hee was going from the sayd

Barema, laden with Cassaui-bread, to sell at Margarita. This Arwacan

promised to bring me into the great riuer of Orenoque, but indeed of

that which he entred he was vtterly ignorant, for he had not seene it in

twelue yeeres before: at which time he was very yoong, and of no

iudgement: [Sidenote: A wonderfull confluence of streames.] and if God

had not sent vs another helpe, we might haue wandred a whole yere in

that labyrinth of riuers, yer wee had found any way, either out or in,

especially after wee were past ebbing and flowing which was in foure

dayes, for I know all the earth doeth not yeelde the like confluence of

streames and branches, the one crossing the other so many times, and all

so faire and large, and so like one to another, as no man can tell which

to take: and if wee went by the Sunne or Compasse, hoping thereby to goe

directly one way or other, yet that way wee were also caried in a circle

amongst multitudes of Islands, and euery Island so bordered with high

trees, as no man coulde see any further then the bredth of the riuer, or

length of the breach. But this it chanced, that entering into a riuer,

(which because it had no name, wee called the riuer of the Red crosse,

our selues being the first Christians that euer came therein) the two

and twentieth of May, as wee were rowing vp the same, wee espied a small

canoa with three Indians, which (by the swiftnesse of my barge, rowing

with eight oares) I ouertooke yer they could crosse the riuer, the rest

of the people on the banks shadowed vnder the thicke wood, gazed on with

a doubtfull conceit what might befall those three which we had taken.

But when they perceiued that we offered them no violence, neither entred

their canoa with any of ours, nor tooke out of the canoa any of theirs,

they then beganne to shew themselues on the banks side, and offered to

traffique with vs for such things as they had. And as wee drew neere,

they all stayed, and we came with our barge to the mouth of a little

creeke which came from their towne into the great riuer.

As we abode there a while, our Indian pilot, called Ferdinando, would

needs goe ashore their village to fetch some fruits, and to drinke of

their artificiall wines, and also to see the place, and know the lord of

it against another time, and tooke with him a brother of his, which hee

had with him in the iourney: when they came to the village of these

people the lord of the Island offered to lay hands on them, purposing

to haue slaine them both, yeelding for reason that this Indian of ours

had brought a strange nation into their territory, to spoile and destroy

them. But the pilot being quicke, and of a disposed body, slipt their

fingers, and ran into the woods, and his brother being the better

footman of the two, recouered the creekes mouth, where we stayed in our

barge, crying out that his brother was slaine: with that we set hands on

one of them that was next vs, a very olde man, and brought him into the

barge, assuring him that if we had not our pilot againe, we would

presently cut off his head. This olde man being resolued that he should

pay the losse of the other, cried out to those in the woods to saue

Ferdinando our pilot: but they followed him notwithstanding, and hunted

after him vpon the foot with the Deere-dogges, and with so maine a crie,

that all the woods eckoed with the shout they made: but at the last this

poore chased Indian recouered the riuer side, and got vpon a tree, and

as we were coasting, leaped downe and swamme to the barge halfe dead

with feare. But our good happe was, that we kept the other olde Indian

which we handfasted to redeeme our pilot withall: for being naturall of

those riuers, we assured our selues hee knew the way better then any

stranger could. And indeed, but for this chance, I thinke we had neuer

found the way either to Guiana, or backe to our ships: for Ferdinando

after a few dayes knew nothing at all, nor which way to turne, yea and

many times the old man himselfe was in great doubt which riuer to take.

Those people which dwell in these broken islands and drowned lands, are

generally called Tiuitiuas: there are of them two sorts, the one called

Ciawani, and the other Waraweete.

[Sidenote: A description of the mighty riuer of Orenoque or Baraquan.]

The great riuer of Orenoque or Baraquan hath nine branches which fall

out on the North side of his owne maine mouth: on the South side it hath

seuen other fallings into the sea, so it disemboqueth by sixteene armes

in all, betweene Ilands and broken ground, but the Ilands are very

great, many of them as bigge as the Isle of Wight, and bigger, and many

lesse. From the first branch on the North to the last of the South, it

is at least 100 leagues, so as the riuers mouth is 300 miles wide at his

entrance into the sea, which I take to be farre bigger then that of

Amazones. All those that inhabit in the mouth of this riuer vpon the

seuerall North branches, are these Tiuitiuas, of which there are two

chiefe lords which haue continuall warres one with the other. The Ilands

which lie on the right hand, are called Pallamos, and the land on the

left, Horotomaka, and the riuer by which Iohn Douglas returned within

the land from Amana to Capuri, they call Macuri.

[Sidenote: What maner of people the Tiuitiuas are.] These Tiuitiuas are

a very goodly people and very valiant, and haue the most manly speech

and most deliberate that euer I heard, of what nation soeuer. In the

Summer they haue houses on the ground, as in other places: in the Winter

they dwell vpon the trees, where they build very artificiall townes and

villages, as it is written in the Spanish story of the West Indies, that

those people do in the low lands nere the gulfe of Vraba: for betweene

May and September the riuer of Orenoque riseth thirty foot vpright, and

then are those ilands ouerflowen twenty foot high aboue the leuell of

the ground, sauing some few raised grounds in the middle of them: and

for this cause they are inforced to liue in this maner. They neuer eat

of any thing that is set or sowen: and as at home they vse neither

planting nor other manurance, so when they come abroad, they refuse to

feed of ought, but of that which nature without labour bringeth forth.

They vse the tops of Palmitos for bread, and kill deere, fish, and

porks, for the rest of their sustenance. They haue also many sorts of

fruits that grow in the woods, and great variety of birds and fowle.

And if to speake of them were not tedious, and vulgar, surely we saw in

those passages of very rare colours and formes, not elsewhere to be

found, for as much as I haue either seene or read. Of these people those

that dwell vpon the branches of Orenoque, called Capuri and Macureo, are

for the most part carpenters of canoas, for they make the most and

fairest canoas, and sel them into Guiana for golde, and into Trinidad

for tobacco in the excessiue taking whereof, they exceed all nations:

and not withstanding the moistnesse of the aire in which they liue, the

hardnesse of their diet, and the great labours they suffer to hunt, fish

and fowle for their liuing in all my life, either in the Indies or in

Europe, did I neuer behold a more goodly or better fauoured people or a

more manly. They were woont to make warre vpon all nations, especially

on the Canibals, so as none durst without a good strength trade by those

riuers: but of late they are at peace with their neighbours, all holding

the Spaniards for a common enemy. When their commanders die, they vse

great lamentation, and when they thinke the flesh of their bodies is

petrified, and fallen from the bones, then they take vp the carcase

againe, and hang it in the caciques house that died, and decke his scull

with feathers of all colours, and hang all his golde plates about the

bones of his armes, thighs, and legs. Those nations which are called

Arwacas, which dwell on the South of Orenoque, (of which place and

nation our Indian pilot was) are dispersed in many other places, and doe

vse to beat the bones of their lords into powder, and their wiues and

friends drinke it all in their seuerall sorts of drinks.

After we departed from the port of these Ciawani, wee passed vp the

riuer with the flood, and ankered the ebbe, and in this sort we went

onward. The third day that we entred the riuer, our galley came on

ground, and stucke so fast, as we thought that euen there our discouery

had ended, and that we must haue left fourescore and ten of our men to

haue inhabited like rooks vpon trees with those nations: but the next

morning, after we had cast out all her ballast, with tugging and halling

to and fro, we got her aflote, and went on. At foure dayes end wee fell

into as goodly a riuer as euer I beheld, which was called The great

Amana, which ranne more directly without windings and turnings then the

other: but soone after the flood of the sea left vs; and being inforced

either by maine strength to row against a violent current, or to returne

as wise as we went out, we had then no shift but to perswade the

companies that it was but two or three dayes worke, and therefore

desired them to take paines, euery gentleman and others taking their

turnes to row, and to spell one the other at the houres end. Euery day

we passed by goodly branches of riuers, some falling from the West,

others from the East into Amana, but those I leaue to the description in

the Cart of discouery, where euery one shalbe named with his rising and

descent. When three dayes more were ouergone, our companies began to

despaire, the weather being extreame hote, the riuer bordered with very

high trees, that kept away the aire, and the current against vs euery

day stronger then other: but we euermore commanded our pilots to promise

an ende the next day, and vsed it so long, as we were driuen to assure

them from foure reaches of the riuer to three, and so to two, and so to

the next reach: but so long we laboured, that many dayes were spent, and

wee driuen to drawe our selues to harder allowance, our bread euen at

the last, and no drinke at all; and our men and our selues so wearied

and scorched, and doubtfull withall, whether wee should euer performe it

or no, the heat increasing as we drew towards the line: for wee were now

in fiue degrees.

The further we went on (our victuall decreasing and the aire breeding

great faintnesse) wee grew weaker and weaker, when wee had most need of

strength and abilitie: for hourely the riuer ranne more violently then

other against vs, and the barge, wheries, and shippes boat of captaine

Gifford and captaine Calfield, had spent all their prouisions: so as we

were brought into despaire and discomfort, had wee not perswaded all the

company that it was but onely one dayes worke more to atteine the land

where wee should be relieued of all wee wanted, and if we returned, that

wee were sure to starue by the way, and that the world would also laugh

vs to scorne. On the banks of these riuers were diuers sorts of fruits

good to eat, flowers and trees of such variety, as were sufficient to

make tenne volumes of herbals: we relieued our selues many times with

the fruits of the countrey, and sometimes with fowle and fish. Wee saw

birds of all colours, some carnation, some crimson, orenge-tawny,

purple, watchet and of all other sorts both simple and mixt, and it was

vnto vs a great good passing of the time to beholde them, besides the

reliefe we found by killing some store of them with our fowling pieces:

without which, hauing little or no bread, and lesse drinke, but onely

the thicke and troubled water of the riuer, we had beene in a very hard

case.

Our olde pilot of the Ciawani (whom, as I sayd before, wee tooke to

redeeme Ferdinando) tolde vs, that if we would enter a branch of a riuer

on the right hand with our barge and wheries, and leaue the galley at

anker the while in the great riuer, he would bring vs to a towne of the

Arwacas, where we should finde store of bread, hennes, fish, and of the

countrey wine; and perswaded vs that departing from the galley at noone,

we might returne yer night. I was very glad to heare this speech, and

presently tooke my barke, with eight musketiers, captaine Giffords

whery, with myselfe and foure musketiers and Captaine Calfield with his

whery, and as many; and so we entred the mouth of this riuer: and

because we were perswaded that it was so nere, we tooke no victuall with

vs at all. When we had rowed three houres, we maruelled we saw no signe

of any dwelling, and asked the pilot where the towne was: he tolde vs a

little further. After three houres more, the Sun being almost set, we

began to suspect that he led vs that way to betray vs; for hee confessed

that those Spaniards which fled from Trinidad, and also those that

remained with Carapana in Emeria, were ioyned together in some village

vpon that riuer. But when it grew towards night; and wee demanded where

the place was: hee tolde vs but foure reaches more. When we had rowed

foure and foure, we saw no signe; and our poore water-men, euen

heart-broken, and tired, were ready to giue up the ghost: for we had now

come from the galley neere forty miles.

At the last we determined to hang the pilot; and if wee had well knowen

the way backe againe by night, we had surely gone; but our owne

necessities pleaded sufficiently for his safety: for it was as darke as

pitch, and the riuer began so to narrow it selfe, and the trees to hang

ouer from side to side, as wee were driuen with arming swords to cut a

passage thorow those branches that couered the water. Wee were very

desirous to finde this towne, hoping of a feast, because wee made but a

short breakefast aboord the galley in the morning and it was now eight a

clocke at night, and our stomacks began to gnawe apace: but whether it

was best to returne or goe on, we beganne to doubt, suspecting treason

in the pilot more and more: but the poore olde Indian euer assured vs

that it was but a little further, but this one turning and that turning:

and at the last about one a clocke after midnight wee saw a light; and

rowing towards it, wee heard the dogges of the village. When we landed

wee found few people; for the lord of that place was gone with diuers

canoas aboue foure hundred miles off, vpon a iourney towardes the head

of Orenoque to trade for golde, and to buy women of the Canibals, who

afterward vnfortunately passed by vs as wee rode at an anker in the port

of Morequito in the darke of the night, and yet came so neere vs, as his

canoas grated against our barges: he left one of his company at the port

of Morequito, by whom wee vnderstood that hee had brought thirty yoong

women, diuers plates of golde, and had great store of fine pieces of

cotton cloth, and cotton beds. In his house we had good store of bread,

fish, hennes, and Indian drinke, and so rested that night, and in the

morning after we had traded with such of his people as came downe, we

returned towards our gally, and brought with vs some quantity of bread,

fish, and hennes.

[Sidenote: A most beautifull countrey.] On both sides of this riuer we

passed the most beautifull countrey that euer mine eyes beheld: and

whereas all that we had seene before was nothing but woods, prickles,

bushes, and thornes, here we beheld plaines of twenty miles in length,

the grasse short and greene, and in diuers parts groues of trees by

themselues, as if they had beene by all the arte and labour in the world

so made of purpose: and still as we rowed, the deere came downe feeding

by the waters side, as if they had beene vsed to a keepers call.

[Sidenote: The riuer of Lagartos, or Crocodiles.] Vpon this riuer there

were great store of fowle, and of many sorts: we saw in it diuers sorts

of strange fishes, and of maruellous bignes: but for lagartos it

exceeded, for there were thousands of those vgly serpents; and the

people call it for the abundance of them, The riuer of Lagartos, in

their language. I had a Negro a very proper yoong fellow, who leaping

out of the galley to swim in the mouth of this riuer, was in all our

sights taken and deuoured with one of those lagartos. In the meane while

our companies in the gally thought we had bene all lost, (for wee

promised to returne before night) and sent the Lions whelps shippes boat

with captaine Whiddon to follow vs vp the riuer; but the next day, after

we had rowed vp and downe some fourescore miles, we returned, and went

on our way, vp the great riuer; and when we were euen at the last cast

for want of victuals, captaine Gifford being before the galley and the

rest of the boats, seeking out some place to land vpon the banks to make

fire, espied foure canoas comming downe the riuer; [Sidenote: Two canoas

taken.] and with no small ioy caused his men to trie the vttermost of

their strengths, and after a while two of the foure gaue ouer, and ranne

themselues ashore, euery man betaking himselfe to the fastnesse of the

woods, the two other lesser got away, while he landed to lay hold on

these: and so turned into some by-creeke, we knew not whither.

[Sidenote: Three Spanyards escaped.] Those canoas that were taken, were

loaden with bread, and were bound for Margarita in the West Indies,

which those Indians (called Arwacas) purposed to cary thither for

exchange: but in the lesser there were three Spanyards, who hauing heard

of the defeat of their gouernour in Trinidad, and that we purposed to

enter Guiana, came away in those canoas: one of them was a cauallero; as

the captaine of the Arwacas after tolde vs, another a souldier, and the

third a refiner.