in other pastimes: after which setting sayle they discouer
pleasant countries, and mountaines voide of grasse, and an Iland
afterward called Isla de los Cedros, or the Ile of Cedars, neere
which they suffer sharpe colde and raine, and to saue themselues
they returne thither.
Immediatly we set saile to ioyne with the ship Santa Agueda, which was
aboue halfe a league in the high sea from vs, and this was on the
Wednesday the seuenteenth of December. Being come together because the
windes were contrary, we drew neere to a headland, which wee called
Punta de la Trinidad, and here wee stayed fishing, and solacing our
selues two or three dayes, although we had alwayes great store of raine.
Afterward we beganne to sayle very slowly, and at night we rode ouer
against those mountaines where we had left our ankers, and vpon
knowledge of the place we receiued great contentment seeing we had
sailed some fiue and thirtie leagues from the place where we had taken
in water: neither was it any maruell that wee so reioyced, because that
the feare which we had of contrary windes caused vs to be so well appayd
of the way which we had made. The day of the holy Natiuitie of our Lord,
which was on the Thursday the fiue and twentieth of the said moneth, God
of his mercy beganne to shew vs fauour in giuing vs a fresh winde almost
in the poope, which carried vs beyond those mountaines, for the space of
tenne or twelue leagues, finding the coast alwayes plaine: and two
leagues within the land, which we coasted along, and betweene these
mountaines, there was a great space of plaine ground, which we might
easily discerne with our eyes, although others were of another opinion.
We beganne from Christmas day to saile slowly with certaine small
land-windes, and sayled from morning to night and about seuen or eight
leagues, which wee esteemed no small matter, alwayes praying to God to
continue this his fauour toward vs, and thanking him for his holy
Natiuitie, and all the dayes of this feast the Frier sayd masse in the
Admirall, and the father Frier Raimund preached vnto vs, which gaue vs
no small comfort, by incouraging vs in the seruice of God.
On Saturday at night being the 27. of the said moneth we ankored neere
vnto a point which seemed to be plaine land all along the shore, and
within the countrey were high mountaines with certaine woods, which
woods and mountaines ranne ouerthwart the countrey, and continued along
with certaine small hilles sharpe on the toppe, and certaine little
vallies are betweene those mountaines. [Sidenote: Great appearance of
gold and siluer.] And in truth, to me which with diligent eyes beheld
the same both in length and in the breadth thereof, it could not chuse
but be a good countrey, and to haue great matters in it, as well
touching the inhabiting thereof by the Indians, as in golde and siluer;
for there was great likelihood that there is store thereof. This night
we saw a fire farre within the lande towards those mountaines, which
made vs thinke that the countrey was throughly inhabited. The next day
being Sunday and Innocents day, the 28 of the said moneth, at breake of
day we set sayle, and by nine or ten of the clocke had sayled three or
foure leagues, where we met with a point which stretched towarde the
West, the pleasant situation whereof delighted vs much. From the eight
and twentieth of December we ranne our course vntill Thursday being
Newyeares day of the yeere 1540, and we ran some 40 leagues, passing by
certaine inlets and bayes, and certaine high mountains couered with
grasse in colour like rosemary: but toward the sea-side very bare and
burned, and toward the top were certaine cragges somewhat of a red
colour, and beyond these appeared certaine white mountaines, and so all
the countrey shewed vnto a point which appeared beyond those burnt white
and red mountaines which haue neither any grasse nor tree vpon them,
whereat we maruelled not a little. This Newyeares day we sawe neere the
maine two small Ilands, and reioyced greatly to see them; for we stood
in great feare, that contrary windes would driue vs as farre backe in
one day, as we had sayled in tenne, which if they had taken vs, we could
not haue withstood them. Wee ranne from the first of Ianuary untill
Munday which were fiue dayes, and the land alwayes stretched Northwest
from the mountaines aforesaid.
And on the Sunday we saw a farre off a-head of vs a high land somewhat
seuered from the maine shore, and all of vs beganne to dispute whether
it were the land which trended toward the Northwest, for that way the
Pilots hoped to discouer a better countrey: and the said Munday the fift
of Ianuarie we came to this high land beforesaid, and it was two Ilands
the one a small one and the other a great one: we coasted these two
Ilands some sixe leagues, which were greene, and had on the toppe of
them many high slender trees; and the great Iland was twentie leagues in
compasse. [Sidenote: Isla de los Cedros mentioned in the 13 chap.] We
coasted in 6 leagues in length without seeing or discouering any other
things, but we saw before vs high land which stretched eight or tenne
leagues Northward, where we rode on Munday at night. From Thursday being
Newyeares day vntill the next Munday we sayled about 35 leagues.
[Sidenote: The land trendeth here Northwest 35 leagues.] And in this
course we felt great cold, which grieued vs much, especially being
assailed by two or three windie showers, which pinched vs much with
colde. We rode ouer against this land two or three nights, hauing it
neere vnto vs, alwayes keeping watch by equall houres, one while
mariners, and another souldiers, all the night long with great
vigilancie. On Tuesday being Twelfe day we came within two or three
leagues of this land, which we had descryed the day before, seeming to
vs very pleasant for it shewed greene with greene trees of an ordinary
bignesse, and we saw many vallies, out of which certaine small mists
arose, which continued in them for a long time, whereupon we gathered
that they rose out of certaine riuers. The same morning, to our great
comfort we saw great smokes, though we were about foure leagues distant
from them, and the Captaine made no great reckoning to approach neere
vnto them, nor to seeke nor serch what the matter was, and perchance
because he was not then in the Santa Agueda, but was aboord the
Trinitie, as his maner was to come and stay there two or three dayes, as
well to passe the time, as to giue order for things that were needfull.
In this countrey the winter and raine seemed to be like that of Castile.
We rode al night two or three leagues distance from shore, and toward
euening we saw fiue or sixe fires, whereat we all reioyced, but did not
maruell thereat, because the situation of that countrey shewed to be
habitable, being farre, pleasant, and all greene, and likewise because
the Iland which we had left behinde vs being (as I haue said) twenty
leagues in circuit, made shewe that it was well peopled. On the
Wednesday we were 3 or 4 leagues at sea from the land, and began to see
two fires more, and therefore we assured our selues that the countrey
was very well inhabited; and the farther we sayled, we alwayes found it
more ciuill. [Sidenote: Floting weeds for fifty leagues.] And for the
space of fifty leagues before we came hither we alwayes found swimming
on the sea certaine flotes of weedes of a ships length, and of the
bredth of two ships, being, round and full of gourds, and vnder these
weedes were many fishes, and on some of them were store of foules like
vnto white sea-meawes. We supposed that these floting weeds did grow
vpon some rocke under the water. We were now in 30 degrees of Northerly
latitude. [Sidenote: Twenty leagues beyond the Ile of Cedar.] We sailed
from the 7 of Ianuary vntill the 9 still with contrary windes: and on
Fryday about noone there rose a North and Northeastern winde, which
forced vs to returne vnder the shelter of that Iland which we left
behind vs, from whence we had sayled about twentie leagues. And that
Friday at night somewhat late we had sayled backe about twelue leagues
of the same, and because it was night wee stayed in the sea, where we
and our shippes were not a little troubled, so that all that night none
of vs slept a winke, but watched euery one. The next morning betimes
being Saturday we proceeded on our voyage, and gate vnder the shelter of
the said Iland, riding in thirtie fadome water: and on that side where
we ankored we found high and closed mountaines, with heapes of a
certaine earth which was all ashes and burned, and in other places
skorched and as blacke as coles, and like the rust of yron, and in other
places whitish, and here and there small blacke hilles, whereat we
maruelled exceedingly, considering that when we passed by, it seemed
vnto vs an habitable countrey full of trees, and now we saw not a sticke
growing on this side.
All of vs supposed that on the other side toward the firme lande the
trees grewe which we sawe, although (as I haue sayde) wee sayled foure
or fiue leagues distant from the same.
We stayed here vnder the shelter of these mountaines Saturday, Sunday,
and Munday, alwayes hauing the Northren winde so strong, that we thinke
if it had caught vs in the sea, wee should haue bene cast away.
Chap. 12.
They enuiron and land vpon the Iland of Cedars, to discouer the
same, and to seeke water and wood. They are assailed of the
Indians, and many of them wounded with stones: but at length
getting the vpper hand, they goe to their cottages, and ranging
farther vp into the Iland they find diuerse things which the
Indians in their flight had left behind them.
On Friday the 13 of Ianuary the Captaine commanded vs to hoise out our
boates, and to goe on shore, which was done accordingly, and we did row
along the shore for the space of a good halfe league and entered into a
valley: for (as I said) all this countrey was full of high and bare
hils, of such qualitie as I mentioned before: and in this and other
small valleys we found some water which was brackish, and not farre from
thence certaine cottages made of shrubs like vnto broome: likewise we
found the footings of Indians both small and great; whereat we much
maruelled that in so rough and wilde a countrey (as farre as we could
discerne) there should be people. Here we stayed all day, making foure
or fiue pits to take in water which we wanted, which though it were bad,
and in small quantitie we refused not; and so the euening being come, we
returned to our boates, and so came vnto our ships which rode a good
league from the shore. The next day being Wednesday the fourteenth of
the said moneth our Generall commanded vs to set saile, and we sailed
about the said Iland on the same side which we coasted when we came from
Nueua Espanna: for when we arriued on the coast we saw fiue or sixe
fires; wherefore he desired to see and learne whether it were inhabited;
and at the farthest ende of this inlet or bay where we rode there came
out before vs a Canoa, wherein were foure Indians which came rowing with
certaine small oares, and came very neere vs to see what we were:
whereupon we tolde our Generall, that it were best to send some of vs
out with our boates to take these Indians or some one of them to giue
them something that they might thinke vs to be good people: but hee
would not consent thereto, because he minded not to stay, hauing then a
prety gale of winde, whereby he might saile about this Iland, hoping
that afterward we might finde and take some others to speake with them,
and giue them what we would to carry on shore; and as we sayled neere
the land, we saw a great hill full of goodly trees of the bignesse of
the trees and Cypresses of Castile. We found in this Iland the footing
of wilde beasts and conies, and saw a peece of pine tree-wood, wherof we
gathered, that there was store of them in that countrey. Thus sayling
neere vnto the shore, we sawe another Canoa comming toward vs with other
foure Indians, but it came not very neere vs, and as we looked forward,
we sawe toward a point which was very neere before vs, three other
Canoas, one at the head of the point among certaine flattes, and the
other two more into the sea, that they might descry vs without comming
ouer neere vs. Likewise betweene certaine hilles which were neere the
point, there appeared here three and there foure of them, and afterward
we saw a small troope of some twentie of them together, so that all of
vs reioyced greatly to behold them. On this side the land shewed greene
with pieces of plaine ground which was neere the sea, and likewise all
those coasts of hils shewed greene, and were couered with many trees,
although they grew not very thicke together. Here at euening we rode
neere the shore hard vpon the said point, to see if we could speake with
those Indians, and likewise to see if we could get fresh water, which
now we wanted, and still as soone as we were come to an anker, we saw
the Indians shew themselues on land neere vnto their lodgings, comming
likewise to descry vs in a Canoa, by sixe and seuen at a time, whereat
we maruelled, because we neuer thought that one of those Canoas would
hold so many men. In this wise we stayed looking still what would be the
successe, and in the place where we rode we were two small leagues
distant from the shore, where we found these Indians in their Canoas:
whereupon we maruelled not a little to see so great an alteration in so
small a distance of countrey, as well because we still discouered
pleasant land with trees (whereas on the other side of the isle there
were none) as also because it was so well peopled with Indians, which
had so many Canoas made of wood, as we might discerne, and not raftes or
Balsas, for so they call those floats which are made all flat with
canes.
The next day being Thursday the fifteenth of the said moneth about
breake of day foure or fiue Indians shewed themselues at the head of
that point, who as soone as they had spyed vs retired behind the point,
and hid themselues among the bushes vpon certaine small hilles that were
there, from whence they issued forth, and couered all the greene hils
and mountaines, which were along that coast; whereupon we gathered that
they had their dwellings there, in regard of the commoditie of the water
and the defence against ill weather and the benefite of fishing. At
sun-rising we saw the Indians appeare in greater companies, going vp
vnto the hilles in small troopes, and from thence they stood and beheld
vs. Immediately we saw fiue or sixe Canoas come out into the sea a good
distance from vs, and those which were in them stood often on their
tip-toes, to view and descry vs the better. On the other side we stirred
not at all for all these their gestures, but stood still riding at
anker; and the Generall seemed not to be very willing to take any of
them, but this day in the morning very early commanded the Masters mate
to conueigh him to our other shippe called the Trinitie. Things passed
in this sort, when about ten of the clocke we saw three Canoas lanch
farre into the sea to fish very neere vnto vs, whereat we tooke greate
pleasure. At 12 of the clocke the Generall returned from the Trinitie
and commanded the boat and men to be made readie, as well souldiers as
mariners, and that we should goe on shore to see if we could get any
wood and water, and catch one of those Indians to vnderstande their
language if it were possible: and so all the men that were readie went
into the Admirals boate, and went toward the Trinitie which by this time
with the other ship had a small gale of winde, wherewith they entered
farther within the point, and we discouered the lodgings and houses of
the Indians, and saw neere the waters side those fiue or sixe Canoas
which at the first came out to view vs, drawen on shore, and ouer
against this place the ships cast anker in 30 and 35 fadome water, and
we were very neere the land: whereat we maruelled much to find so great
depth of water so neere the shore. Being gone abord our botes, we made
toward the shore ouer against a village of the Indians, who as soone as
they saw vs about to come on land, left an hill whereon they stood to
behold what we did, and came downe to the shore, where we were prepared
to come on land: but before they came against vs they caused their women
and children to fly into the mountaines with their goods, and then came
directly towards vs, threatning vs with certaine great staues which they
carried in their hands some 3 yardes long and thicker then a mans wrest:
[Sidenote: A skirmish of the Indians fighting with stones.] but
perceiuing that for all this we ceased not to come neere the sea-shore
to come on land, they began to charge vs with stones and to fling
cruelly at vs, and they hit 4 or 5 men, among whom they smote the
Generall with two stones. In the meane while the other bote landed a
little beneath, whereupon when they saw that they were forced to diuide
themselves to keepe the rest of our company from comming on land, they
began to be discouraged, and did not assaile the Generals boate so
fiercely, who began to cause his people to goe on shore with no small
trouble; for albeit he was neere the land, yet as soone as they leapt
out of the boat they sunke downe, because they could find no fast
footing; and thus swimming or otherwise as they could, first a souldier
called Spinosa got on land, and next to him the General, and then some
of the rest, and began to make head against the Indians, and they came
hastily with those staues in their hands, for other kinds of weapons we
saw none, sauing bowes and arrowes of pinetree. [Sidenote: The great vse
of targets against arrowes or stones.] After a short combate they brake
in pieces the targets of the Generall, and of Spinosa. In the meane
while those of the other boat were gotten on land, but not without much
difficultie, by reason of the multitude of stones which continually
rained downe vpon them, and they stroke Terazzo on the head a very
shrowd blow, and had it not bene for our targets, many of vs had beene
wounded, and in great distresse, although our enemies were but few in
number. In this maner all our company came on shore with swimming and
with great difficultie, and if they had not holpen one another, some of
them had bene drowned. Thus we landed, and within a while after those of
the other bote were come on land, the Indians betooke themselues to
flight, taking their way toward the mountaines, whether they had sent
their women, children and goods: on the other side we pursued them, and
one of those Indians which came to assaile the Generals boat, was slaine
vpon the strand, and two or three others were wounded, and some said
more. [Sidenote: The vse of mastiues in the warre against Indians.]
While we pursued them in this maner our mastiue dogge Berecillo
ouertooke one of them not farre from vs (who because we were so wet
could not run very fast) and pulled him downe, hauing bitten him
cruelly, and doubtlesse he had held him till we had come, vnlesse it had
happened that another of his companions had not followed that Indian
which the dogge had pulled downe, who with a staffe which he had in his
hands gaue the dogge a cruell blow on the backe, and without any staying
drew his fellow along like a Deere, and Berecillo was faine to leaue him
for paine; neither had he scarse taken the dogge off on him but the
Indian got vp, and fled so hastily towarde the mountaine, that within a
short while hee ouertooke his fellowe which had saued him from the pawes
of the dogge, who (as it appeared) betooke him lustily to his heeles,
and thus they came vnto their fellowes which descended not downe to the
shore being about some twentie, and they were in all about fiftie or
sixtie.
After we had breathed our selues a while, we viewed their houses where
they stood, which were certaine cottages couered with shrubs like broome
and rosemary, with certaine stakes pight in the ground; and the Generall
willed vs to march all together without dispersing of our selues, a
little way vp those mountaines, to see if there were any water and wood,
because we stood in great neede of them both. And while we marched
forward, we saw in certaine little vallies the goods which the women had
left there behind them in their flight: for the Indians as soone as they
saw vs pursue them ouertooke the women, and for feare charged them to
flie away with their children leauing their stuffe in this place. We
went vnto this booty, and found good store of fresh-fish, and dried
fish, and certaine bags containing aboue 28 pound weight full of dried
fish ground to pouder, and many seal skins, the most part dressed with a
faire white graine vpon them, and others very badly dressed. There were
also their instruments to fish withall, as hookes made of the prickes of
certaine shrubs and trees. Here we tooke the said skins without leauing
any one in the place, and then we returned to the sea, because it was
now night, or at least very late, and found our botes waiting for vs.
Chap. 13.
A description of the Canoas of the Indians of the Ile of Cedars, and
how coasting the same to find fresh water they found some, and
desiring to take thereof they went on shore, and were diuersely
molested with the weapons of the Indians. They christen an old
Indian, and returne vnto their ships.
The Canoas which they had were certaine thicke trunkes of Cedars, some
of them of the thicknesse of two men, and three fadome long, being not
made hollow at all, but being laid along and fastened together, they
shoue them into the sea, neither were they plained to any purpose, for
we found no kind of edge-toole, sauing that there were certaine sharp
stones, which we found vpon certaine rockes that were very keene,
wherewith we supposed that they did cut and flea those seales. And neere
the shore we found certaine water, wherewith we filled certaine bottles
made of the skins of those seales, contayning ech of them aboue a great
paile of water. The next day our Generall commanded vs to set saile,
whereupon sailing with a fresh gale about 2 leagues from the shore of
this Island, trending about the same to see the end thereof, and also to
approch neere the firme land, to informe our selues of the state
thereof, because we had seene 5 or 6 fires we compassed the same about:
for by this meanes we performed 2 or three good actions, namely, we
returned to our right course, and searched whether any riuer fell out of
the coast of the firme land, or whether there were any trees there, or
whether any store of Indians did shew themselues or no.
In this maner proceeding on our way all the Friday being the 16 of
January at euening, and seeking to double the point of the Iland, so
fierce and contrary a Northren winde encountered vs, that it draue vs
backe that night ouer against the lodgings and habitations of the
Indians, and here we stayed all Saturday, what time we lost the Trinitie
againe, but on Sunday-night being the 18 we saw her againe, and beganne
to proceede on our way to compasse that Iland, if it pleased God to send
vs good weather.
[Sidenote: Isla de los Cedros, or the Ile of Cedars in 28 deg. and a
quarter.] On Sunday, Munday, and Tuesday (which was the twentieth, of
the said moneth of Ianuarie) wee sailed with scarce and contrary windes,
and at length came to the cape of the point of the Iland, which we
called Isla de los Cedros or the Ile of Cedars, because that on the tops
of the mountaines therein, there growes a wood of these Cedars being
very tall, as the nature of them is to be.[48] This day the Trinitie
descryed a village or towne of the Indians, and found water: for on
Sunday night we had newly lost her, and had no sight of her vntill
Tuesday, whenas we found her riding neere the shore, not farre from
those cottages of the Indians. And as soone as we had descryed her, we
made toward her, and before we could reach her, we espied three Canoas
of Indians which came hard aboord the said ship called the Trinitie, so
that they touched almost the side of the ship, and gaue them of their
fish, and our people on the other side gaue them certaine trifles in
exchange, and after they had spoken with them, the Indians went backe to
the shore, and at the same instant we came vp vnto the Admirall and rode
by them, and they all saluted vs, saying that the Indians were neere
them, and telling what had passed betweene them, whereat the Generall
and we receiued great contentment. They told vs moreouer, that they had
found fresh water, whereby they increased our great ioy, because we
stood in much neede thereof, for at the other place of the Indians we
could get but a little.
[48] The Island still bears this name.
[Sidenote: These mighty deepe and high weedes are described in the end
of this treatise.] While we thus rode at ankor, we saw a Canoa with 3
Indians put out into the sea from their cottages, and they went vnto a
fishing place, among certaine great and high weedes, which grow in this
sea among certaine rockes, the greatest part of which weedes groweth in
15 or 20 fadome depth; and with great celeritie they caught seuen or
eight fishes, and returned with them vnto the Trinity, and gaue them
vnto them, and they in recompense gaue the Indians certaine trifles.
After this the Indians stayed at the sterne of the ship, viewing the
same aboue three houres space, and taking the oares of our boat they
tryed how they could rowe with them, wherat they tooke great pleasure;
and we which were in the Admirall stirred not a whit all this while, to
giue them the more assurance, that they should not flie away, but should
see that we ment to do them no harme, and that we were good people. As
soone as we were come to anker, and beheld all that had passed betweene
the Indians and those of the Trinity, after the Indians were gone to the
shore in their Canoas made of the bodies of trees, the Generall
commanded the boat which was without to be brought vnto him: and when it
was come, he, and Francis Preciado, and two others went into it, and so
we went aboord the Trinity. The Indians seeing people commingout of the
other ship into the Trinitie, sent two Canoas vnto the sterne of the
ship, and brought vs a bottle of water and we gaue vnto them certain
beads, and continued talking with them a little while; but euening
approching the aire grew somewhat cold. The Indians returned on shore to
their lodgings, and the General and we to our ship. The next day being
Wednesday in the morning, the General commanded certaine of vs to take
the bote and goe ashore, to see if we could find any brooke or well of
fresh water in the houses of the Indians, because he thought it
impossible for them to dwell there without any water to drinke. The
father frier Raimund likewise went out in our company, because the day
before seeing the Indians came to the sterne of the shippe parlying with
vs, he thought he might haue spoken a little with them, with the like
familiarity. In like sort many mariners and souldiers went out in the
boat of the Trinity, and going altogether with their weapons toward the
shore, somewhat aboue the lodgings of the Indians, very early in the
morning they watched the boats, and perceiued that we would come on
land, wherevpon they sent away their women and children with certaine of
them, who caried their goods vp into certaine exceeding steepe
mountaines and hilles, and 5 or 6 of them came toward vs, which were
excellently well made, and of a good stature. Two of them had bowes and
arrowes, and other two 2 bastonadoes much thicker then the wrist of a
mans hand, and other two with 2 long staues like iauelins with very
sharpe points, and approched very neere vs being nowe come on shore. And
beginning by signes very fiercely to braue vs, they came so neere vs,
that almost they strooke with one of those staues one of our souldiers
called Garcia a man of good parentage, but the General commanded him to
withdraw himselfe, and not to hurt any of them. In the meane season the
General and frier Raimund stept foorth, the frier lapping a garment
about his arme, because they had taken vp stones in their hands, fearing
that they would do them some mischiefe. Then began both of them to
speake vnto them by signes and words, to be quiet, signifying, that they
ment them no harme, but only were come to take water; and the frier
shewed them a drinking cup; but nothing would serue to make them leaue
that bragging and flinging of stones; and the General continuing still
in a mind not to hurt them, commanded his men gently to come neere vnto
them, and that by signes they should all shew them, that they meant in
no wise to hurt them, but that we were come on land onely to take water.
[Sidenote: The great vse of mastiues in pursuit of the Indians.] On the
other side refusing vtterly to take knowledge of these things they still
insulted more and more: whereupon Francis Preciado counselled the
General to giue him leaue to kill one of them, because all the rest
would flee away, wherby at our ease we might take water: but he replied
that he would not haue it so, but willed them to looze the two mastiues
Berecillo and Achillo: wherefore the dogs were let loose, and as soone
as they saw them, they vanished immediately, betaking them to their
heels, and running vp those cliffes like goates. Also others which came
from the mountains to succour them, betooke themselues to flight. The
dogs ouertooke two of them, and bit them a little, and we running after,
laid hold on them, and they seemed as fierce as wild and vntamed beasts
for 3 or 4 of vs held either of them, to cherish and pacifie them, and
to seeke to giue them some thing: but we auailed not, for they bit vs by
the hands, and stooped downe to take vp stones for to strike vs with
them. We led them a while in this maner, and came vnto their lodgings,
where the Generall gaue a charge, that no man should touch any thing of
theirs, commanding Francis Preciado to see that this order was observed,
in not taking any thing from them, although in very deed there was
little or nothing there, because the women and Indians which were fled
had caried al away. Here we found an old man in a caue so extreamly aged
as it was wonderful, which could neither see nor go, because he was so
lame and crooked. The father frier Raimund sayd, it were good (seeing he
was so aged) to make him a Christian; whereupon we christened him. The
captaine gaue the Indians which we had taken two paire of eare-rings,
and certaine counterfeit diamonds, and making much of them, suffered
them to depart at their pleasure, and in this sort faire and softly they
returned to the rest of their fellowes in the mountaine. We tooke the
matter of that village which was but a small quantity, and then the
Generall commanded vs to resume to our ship, because we had eaten
nothing as yet, and after our repast we sayled towards a bay which lay
beyond that village, where we saw a very great valley, and those of the
Trinitie sayd, that they had seene there good store of water, and
sufficient for vs; wherefore wee ankered neere vnto that valley. And the
Generall went on shore with both the boates, and the men that went on
land in the morning with the two fathers frier Raimund, and frier
Antony: and passing vp that valley a crossebow shot, we found a very
small brooke of water which neuertheless supplied our necessity for we
filled two buts thereof that euening, leauing our vessels to take it
with on shore vntill the next morning: and we reioyced not a little that
we had found this water, for it was fresh, and the water which we had
taken vp before was somewhat brackish, and did vs great hurt both in our
bodies and in our taste.
Chap. 14.
They take possession of the Isle of Cedars for the Emperours
Maiestie, and departing from thence they are greatly tossed with a
tempest of the sea, and returne to the Island, as to a safe
harbour.
The next day being the two and twentieth of Ianuary very early the
General commanded vs to go on shore, and that we should haue our dinner
brought vs, and should take in the rest of our water, which we did, and
filled 17 buts without seeing any Indian at al. The next day going out
to fill 8 or 9 vessels which were not yet filled, a great winde at
Northwest tooke vs, whereupon they made signes to vs from the ships,
that with all haste wee should come on board againe, for the wind grew
still higher, and higher, and the Masters were affraid that our cables
would break, thus we were in the open sea. [Sidenote: Chap. 12.]
Therefore being come aboord againe not without great trouble we returned
backe ouer against the village of the Indians, where we had slaine the
Indian, and because the wind grew more calme about midnight, the Pilots
did not cast anker, [Sidenote: Isle de los Cedros is the greatest of the
3 Isles of S. Stephan.] but hulled vnder the shelter of this Island,
which (as I haue said) is called The Isle of Cedars, and is one of the
3 Isles of. S. Stephan, the greatest and chiefest of them, where the
General tooke possession. While we hulled here, about midnight, the next
Friday being the 23 of the moneth, without our expectation we had a
fresh gale of wind from the Southeast, which was very fauourable for our
voyage, and the longer it continued, the more it increased; so that
betweene that night and the next day being Saturday the 24 of the said
moneth we sailed 18 great leagues. [Sidenote: Read cap. 11 about the
end.] While we were thus on our way, the winde grew so contrary and so
tempestuous, that to our great grief we were constrained to coast about
with our ships, and returned twenty leagues backe againe, taking for our
succour the second time, the point of the lodgings of the Indians, where
the foresayd Indian was slaine, and here we stayed Munday, Tewsday, and
Wednesday, during which time the Northwest and the North wind blew
continually, whereupon we determined not to stirre from thence vntill we
saw good weather, and well setled for our voyage: for in this climate
these winds doe raigne so greatly, that we feared they would stay vs
longer there then we would; and we were so weary of staying, that euery
day seemed a moneth vnto vs. Vnder this shelter we rode Thursday,
Friday, and Saturday vntill noone, which was the last of Ianuary in the
yeere 1540. About noone the wind began to blow softly at Southwest,
whereupon the General told the Pilots, that we should doe well to put
ouer to the maine land, where with some wind off the shore we might by
the grace of God saile somewhat farther. Thus we hoised our sailes, and
sailed vntil euening three or foure leagues, for the wind scanted, and
wee remained becalmed. [Sidenote: February.] The night being come there
arose a contrary winde, and we were inforced of necessitie to retire the
third time to the same shelter of the Isle of Cedars, where we stayed
from the first of February vntil Shrouesunday, in the which meane time
we tooke in two buts of water which we had spent. During the space of
these eight dayes we sought to make sayle two or three times, but as we
went out a little beyond the point of this Isle, we found the wind so
boystrous and contrary, and the sea so growen, that of force we were
constrained to returne vnder the succour of the Island, and often times
wee were in great feare that we should not be able to get in thither
againe. During this time that we could not proceed on our iourney, we
imployed our selues in catching a few fishes for the Lent. From
Shrouesunday being the 8 of February, on which day we set sayle, we
sayled with a very scant wind, or rather a calme, vntil Shrouetewsday,
on which we came within kenne of the firme land, from whence we were put
backe these twenty leagues (for in these two dayes and a halfe wee
sayled some 20 small leagues) and we lay in sight of the said poynt of
the firme land. And on the Tewsday we were becalmed, waiting till God of
his mercy would helpe vs with a prosperous wind to proceed on our
voyage.
On Shrouesunday at night, to make good cheere withall wee had so great
winde and raine, that there was nothing in our ships which was not wet,
and very colde ayre. On Ashwednesday at sun-rising we strooke saile
neere a point which we fel somewhat short withall in a great bay
running into this firme land: and this is the place where we saw fiue or
sixe fires, and at the rising of the sunne being so neere the shore that
we might well descrie and viewe it at our pleasure we saw it to bee very
pleasant, for wee descried as farre as wee could discerne with our eyes,
faire valleys and small hilles, with greene shrubs very pleasant to
behold, although there grew no trees there. The situation shewed their
length and breadth. This day was little winde, it being in a manner
calme, to our no small griefe: and the father frier Raimund sayd vs a
drie masse, and gaue vs ashes, preaching vnto vs according to the time
and state wherein we were: with which sermon we were greatly comforted.
[Sidenote: The point of Santa Cruz otherwise called Punta de Balenas.]
After noonetide we had contrary wind, which still was our enemie in all
our iourney, at the least from the point of the port of Santa Cruz. Here
we were constrained to anker in fiue fadome of water, and after wee rode
at anker wee began to viewe the countrey, and tooke delight in beholding
how goodly and pleasant it was, and neere vnto the sea wee iudged that
wee saw a valley of white ground. At euening so great a tempest came
vpon vs of winde and raine, that it was so fearfull and dangerous a
thing that a greater cannot be expressed: for it had like to haue driuen
vs vpon the shore, and the chiefe Pilot, cast out another great anker
into the sea yet all would not serve, for both these ankers could not
stay the ship. Whereupon all of vs cryed to God for mercy, attending to
see how he would dispose of vs; who of his great goodnesse, while we
were in this danger, vouchsafed a little to slake the tempest, and with
great speede the chief Pilot commanded the mariners to turne the
capsten, and the Generall commanded and prayed all the souldiers to
helpe to turne the capsten, which they were nothing slow to performe:
and thus we beganne to weigh our ankers, and in weighing of one which
was farre greater then the other, the sea was so boisterous that it
forced the capsten in such sorte, that the men which were at it could
not rule the same, and it strooke a Negro of the Generals such a blowe,
that it cast him downe along vpon the decke, and did the like vnto
another mariner and one of the barres strooke our fire-furnace so
violently, that it cast it ouerboord into the sea. Yet for all these
troubles wee weighed our ankers, and set sayle, and albeit we had great
tempests at sea, yet made we no account thereof in respect of the ioy
which we conceiued to see our selues freed of the perill of being cast
on that shore with our ships, especially seeing it fell out at midnight,
at which time no man could haue escaped, but by a meere myracle from
God.
Wee sayled vp and downe the sea all Thursday, and vntill Friday in the
morning being the fourteeneth day of February, and the waues of the sea
continually came raking ouer our deckes. At length, on Saturday morning
at breake of day we could finde no remedy against the contrary windes,
notwithstanding the Generall was very obstinate to haue vs keepe out at
sea, although it were very tempestuous, least we should be driuen to put
backe againe, but no diligence nor remedie preuailed: for the windes
were so boysterous and so contrary, that they could not be worse, and
the sea went still higher, and swelled more and more, and that in such
sorte, that we greatly feared wee should all perish. Whereupon the Pilot
thought it our best course to returne to the Isle of Cedars, whither wee
had repaired three or foure times before by reason of the selfe same
contrary windes, for wee tooke this Island for our father and mother,
although we receiued no other benefite thereby saue this onely, namely,
to repaire thither in these necessities, and to furnish our selues with
water, and with some small quantitie of fish.
Being therefore arriued at this Island; and riding vnder the shelter
thereof, the contrary windes did alwayes blow very strongly, and here we
tooke water which we drunke, and wood for our fewel, and greatly
desired, that the windes would bee more fauourable for proceeding on our
iourney. And though we rode under the shelter of the Isle, yet felt wee
the great fury of those windes, and the rage of the sea, and our ships
neuer ceased rolling.
At breake of day the twentieth of February, wee found the cable of the
Admirall cracked, whereupon, to our great griefe, we were constrained to
set sayle, to fall downe lower the space of a league, and the Trinitie
came and rode in our company.
Chap. 15.
They goe on land in the isle of Cedars, and take diuers wilde
beastes, and refresh and solace themselues. They are strangely
tossed with the Northwest winde, and seeking often to depart they
are forced, for the auoiding of many mischiefes, to repaire
thither againe for harbour.
The two and twentieth of February being the second Sonday in Lent, the
General went on shore with the greatest part of his people and the
friers, neere vnto a valley which they sawe before them. And hearing
masse on land, certaine souldiers and mariners, with certaine dogges
which we had in our company went into the said valley, and we met with
certaine deere, whereof we tooke a female, which was little, but fat,
whose haire was liker the haire of a wild goat then of a deere, and we
found her not to be a perfect deere, for she had foure dugs like vnto a
cowe full of milke, which made vs much to marueile. And after we had
flayed off her skinne, the flesh seemed more like the flesh of a goate,
then of a deere. We killed likewise a gray conie, in shape like vnto
those of Nueua Espanna, and another as blacke as heben-wood. In the
cottages at the shelter aboue, where we brake our cable, we found many
pine-nuts opened, which (in mine opinion) the Indians had gathered
together to eate the kernels of them. On Munday the 23 of the said
moneth we rode at anker, taking our pleasure and pastime with fishing.
And the Northwest winde began to blow, which waxed so great a little
before midnight, as it was wonderfull: so that although we were vnder
the shelter of the Island, and greatly defended from that wind, yet for
all that it was so furious, and the sea became so raging and boisterous,
that it greatly shook our ships, and we were in great feare of breaking
our cables, whereof (to say the trueth) we had very much neede: for
hauing spent longer time in this voyage then we looked for, wee had
broken two, and lost two of our best ankers. This furious winde
continued vntill the next being Tewsday the 24 when as we went on shore
with the friers, who sayd vs masse, recommending our selues to God,
beseeching him to vouchsafe to succour and help vs with some good
weather that we might proceede on our voyage, to the aduancement of his
seruice. And still the winds were so high and outragious, that the
deuill seemed to be loosed in the aire. Whereupon the Pilots caused all
the masts to be let downe, least they should be shaken with the wind,
and tooke off all the shrowds, and likewise caused the cabbens in the
sterne to be taken away, that the winds might haue more free passage,
for the safetie of the ships: yet for al this they ceased not to be in
great trouble. On Tewsday the second of March, about midnight or
somewhat after, riding vnder the Island in this distresse, there came a
gust of Northwest winde, which made the cable of the Admirall to slip,
and the Trinitie brake her cable, and had bene cast away, if God of his
mercy had not prouided for vs, together with the diligence which the
Pilots vsed, in hoising the sailes of the trinkets and mizzen, wherewith
they put to sea, and rode by another anker vntill day, when the men of
both the ships went with their boats to seeke the anker vntill noone,
which at length they found and recouered, not without great paines and
diligence which they vsed in dragging for it, for they were till noone
in seeking the same, and had much adoe to recouer it. After this we set
vp our shrowdes, and all things necessary to saile, for to proceede on
our voyage, if it pleased God, and not to stay alwayes in that place, as
lost and forlorne. Thus on the Wednesday two or three houres after
dinner wee set saile, with a scarce winde at Southeast, which was
fauourable for our course and very scant; and our Pilots and all the
rest of vs were in no small feare, that it would not continue long. We
began therefore to set forward, although we seemed to see before our
eies, that at the end of the Island we should meete with contrary winde
at North and Northwest. This day about euening when our ships had
discouered the point of this Isle of Cedars, wee began to perceiue those
contrary windes, and the sea to go so loftily, that it was terrible to
behold. And the farther we went, the more the winds increased, so that
they put vs to great distresse, sayling alwayes with the sheates of our
mainesaile and trinket warily in our hands, and with great diligence we
loosed the ties of all the sailes, to saue them the better, that the
wind might not charge them too vehemently. For all this the mariners
thought it best to returne backe, and that by no means we should runne
farre into the sea, because we were in extreame danger. Whereupon wee
followed their counsel, turning backe almost to the place from whence we
departed, whereat we were al not a little grieued, because we could not
prosecute our voyage, and began to want many things for the furniture of
our ships. The 8 of March being Munday about noone the Generall
commanded vs to set saile; for a small gale of winde blew from the West,
which was the wind whereof we had most need, to follow our voyage,
whereat wee were all glad for the great desire which wee had to depart
out of that place. Therefore we began to set saile, and to passe toward
the point of the Island, and to shape our course toward the coast of the
firme land, to view the situation thereof. And as we passed the Island,
and were betwixt it and the maine, the Northwest being a contrary wind
began to blow, which increased so by degrees, that we were constrained
to let fall the bonets of our sailes, to saue them, striking them very
low. And the Trinitie seeing this bad weather returned forthwith vnto
the place from whence we departed, and the Admiral cast about all night
in the sea, vntill the morning; and the chiefe Pilot considering that by
no means we could proceed farther without danger, if we should continue
at sea any longer, resolued that we should retire our selues againe to
that shelter, where we rode at anker vntill Thursday. And on Friday
about noone we set saile againe with a scarce winde, and in comming
forth vnto the point of the Island, we met againe with contrary winde at
Northwest: whereupon running all night with the firme land, on Saturday
in the morning being S. Lazarus day and the 13 of March, we came in
sight thereof, in viewing of the which we all reioyced, and we souldiers
would very willingly haue gone on shore. This night fel great store of
raine like the raine in Castilia, and we were all well wet in the
morning, and we tooke great pleasure in beholding the situation of that
firme land, because it was greene, and because we had discouered a
pleasant valley and plaines of good largenes, which seemed to bee
enuironed with a garland of mountains. At length for feare of
misfortunes, seeing the sea so high, we durst not stay here or approch
neere the land, and because we had great want of cables and ankers, we
were again constrained to put to sea; and being in the same, and
finding the said contrary windes, the Pilots iudged that we had none
other remedie, but againe to retire our selues to our wonted shelter.
And thus we returned, but somewhat aboue the old place. On Sunday we
rode here to the great grief of all the company, considering what
troubles we indured, and could not get forward; so that this was such a
corrasiue, as none could be more intollerable. This day being come to an
anker wee had a mighty gale of wind at Northwest, which was our
aduersary and capital enemie, and when day was shut in, it still grew
greater and greater, so that the ships rouled much. And after midnight,
toward break of day, the Trinitie brake her two cables, which held the
two ankers which she had, and seeing her selfe thus forlorne, she turned
vp and downe in the sea vntill day, and came and rode neere vs, by one
anker which shee had left. This day all of vs went to seeke these lost
ankers, and for all the diligence which wee vsed, wee could find but one
of them. We rode at anker all day vntill night, when the Trinitie againe
brake a cable, which certaine rocks had cut asunder: whereupon the
General commanded that she should ride no longer at anker, but that shee
should turne vp and downe, as she had done before in sight of vs, which
she did al day long, and at night she came to an anker ouer against a
fresh water somewhat lower, and wee went and rode hard by her. On
Palmesunday we went on shore with the fathers, which read the passion
vnto vs and said masse, and we went in procession with branches in our
hands. And so being comforted, because we had receiued that holy
Sacrament, we returned to our ships.
Chap. 16.
Returning to the Isle of Cedars weather-beaten, and with their ships
in euil case, they conclude, that the ship called Santa Agueda or
Santa Agatha should returne vnto Nueua Espanna. Of the multitude
of whales which they found about the point of California: with the
description of a weede, which groweth among the Islands of those
seas.
Here we continued vntill the Wednesday before Easter being the foure
and twentieth of March, on which day wee consulted together, that
because the ships were ill conditioned, and wanted necessary furniture
to proceede any further, it were best for vs to returne backe to New
Spaine, as also because our clothes were consumed: but the Generall
seemed not willing to returne, but to proceed on his voyage: and in fine
it was resolued, that seeing both the ships could not proceede forward,
as well because they had lost their necessary furnitures, as also that
the Santa Agatha had neede of calking, because she receiued much water,
and was the worst furnished of the twaine, that shee should returne
backe to aduertise the Marques of our successe in this voyage, and what
hindred our proceeding, and in what case wee stoode, and howe wee were
bereft of our necessary furniture. And because the Trinitie was the
swifter ship, and better appointed then the other, it was concluded,
that it should be prouided in the best maner that might be, and that the
General should proceed on his iourney in her with such companie as he
should make choise of, and that the rest should returne at their good
leisure. Wherefore vpon this determination we went vnder a point of this
Island, because it was a fit place to carene the ship: and in recouering
the same we spent Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday till noone, and yet
for all that wee could not wel double it, vntil Easter day about noone.
Here we ankered very neere the shore and in a valley we found very
excellent fresh water, whereof we made no smal account, and here stayed
all the Easter holidayes, to set our selues about the furnishing vp of
the Trinity: and after the worke was taken in hand by the two Masters
which were very sufficient calkers (one of which was Iuan Castiliano
chiefe Pilot, and the other Peruccio de Bermes) they finished the same
so well in fiue dayes, as it was wonderfull; for no man could perceiue
how any droppe of water could enter into any of the seames. Afterward
they mended the other ship from Saturday till Munday, during which time
all those were shriuen that had not confessed, and receiued the
communion, and it was resolued by charge of the confessors, that all
those seale-skins which they had taken from the Indians should bee
restored againe; and the Generall gaue charge to Francis Preciado to
restore them all, charging him on his conscience so to doe. Thus they
gathered them together, and deliuered them into the hands of the
fathers, to bee kept vntill they returned to the place, where they were
to restore them. [Sidenote: The Santa Agueda returneth for Newspaine the
5. of April.] After this maner on Munday before noone we tooke our
leaues of the Generall Francis Vlloa, and of the people that stayed with
him, who at our departure shed no small number of teares, and we chose
for our captaine in the Santa Agueda master Iuan Castiliano the chiefe
pilot, as well of the ship, as of vs all, and set saile the same day
being the fift of April, hauing our boat tied at our sterne, till we
came ouer against the cottages, whence wee had taken the seale-skins.
[Sidenote: The Isle of Cedars 300 leagues from Colima.] From the
countrey of the Christians and the port of Colima we were now distant
some three hundreth leagues, which is the first port where wee
determined to touch at. And hauing sailed a league from the Trinitie the
captaine Iuan Castiliano commanded vs to salute them with three pieces
of great Ordinance, and she answered vs with other three, and afterward
we answered one another with two shot apiece.
[Sidenote: The sixt of Aprill.] We sailed on Munday and Tewsday til
noone with contrary wind in sight of the Island, and at noone we had a
fresh gale in the poupe, which brought vs ouer against the cottages of
the Indians where we tooke away those seal-skins; and there certain
souldiers and mariners with the father frier Antony de Melo leapt on
shore with the boat, carying the skins with them, and flung them into
the sayd cottages out of which they were taken, and so returned to their
ship. [Sidenote: The 7 of April.] [Sidenote: They saile from the Isle of
Cedars to the point of Santa Cruza or California in sixe daies.] This
day the weather calmed, whereupon we were driuen to cast anker, fearing
that we should foorthwith be distressed for want of victuals, if we
should stay there any long time: but God which is the true helper
prouided better for vs then we deserued or imagined; for as we rode
here, after midnight the Wednesday following before ten of the cloke wee
had a fauourable gale of winde from the Southeast, which put vs into the
sea; whither being driuen, wee had the wind at Northwest so good and
constant, that in sixe dayes it brought vs to the cape of the point of
the port of Santa Cruz: for which so great blessing of God we gaue vnto
him infinite thankes. And here we began to allow our selues a greater
proportion of victuals then wee had done before, for wee had eaten very
sparingly for feare our victuals would faile vs. [Sidenote: Punta de
Balenas.] Before we came to this point of the hauen of Santa Cruz by
sixe or seuen leagues we saw on shore between certaine valleys diuers
great smokes. And hauing passed the point of this port, our captaine
thought it good to lanch foorth into the maine Ocean: yet although we
ran a swift course, aboue 500 whales came athwart of vs in 2 or 3
skulles within one houres space, which were so huge, as it was
wonderfull, and some of them, came so neere vnto the ship, that they
swam vnder the same from one side to another, whereupon we were in great
feare, lest they should doe vs some hurt, but they could not because the
ship had a prosperous and good winde, and made much way, whereby it
could receiue no harme, although they touched and strooke the same.
[Sidenote: Read more of these weedes cap. 13.] Among these Islands are
such abundance of those weedes, that if at any time wee were inforced to
sayle ouer them, they hindred the course of our ships. They growe
fourteene or fifteene fadome deepe vnder the water, their tops reaching
foure or fiue fadome aboue the water. They are of the colour of yellow
waxe, and their stalke groweth great proportionably. This weede is much
more beautifull then it is set foorth, and no maruell, for the naturall
painter and creator thereof is most excellent.
This relation was taken out of that which Francis Preciado brought with
him. [Sidenote: Sant Iago de Buena esperanza in 19 degrees.] After this
ship the Santa Agueda departed from the Generall Vlloa, and returned
backe the 5 of April, she arriued in the port of Sant Iago de buena
esperança the 18 of the said moneth, and after she had stayed there
foure or fiue dayes, she departed for Acapulco: howbeit vntill this
present seuenteenth of May in the yeere 1540, I haue heard no tidings
nor newes of her.
[Sidenote: Cabo del Enganno in 30 degrees and a halfe.] Moreouer after
the departure of the Santa Agueda for Nueua Espanna, the General Francis
Vlloa in the ship called the Trinitie proceeding on his discouery
coasted the land vntill he came to a point called Cabo del Enganno
standing in thirty degrees and a halfe of Northerly latitude, and then
returned backe to Newspaine, because he found the winds very contrary,
and his victuals failed him.
The true and perfect description of a voyage performed and done by
Francisco de Gualle a Spanish Captaine and Pilot, for the
Vice-roy of New Spaine, from the hauen of Acapulco in New Spaine,
to the Islands of the Luçones or Philippinas, vnto the Hauen of
Manilla, and from thence to the Hauen of Macao in China, and from
Macao backe againe to Acapulco, accomplished in the yeere of our
Lord, 1584.
Chap. 1.
The tenth of March in the yeere of our Lorde 1582 wee set sayle out of
the Hauen of Acapulco, lying in the countrey of New Spaine, directing
our course towards the Islands of the Luçones, or Philippinas West
Southwest, running in that maner for the space of twentie fiue leagues,
till wee came vnder sixteene degrees, so that wee might shunne the
calmes by sayling close by the shoare. From thence forward we held our
course West for the space of 30 leagues, and being there, we ran West,
and West and by South, for the space of 1800 leagues, to the Iland
called Isla del Enganno, which is the furthest Iland lying in the South
parts of the Ilands called De los Ladrones, that is, The Ilands of
rouers, or Islas de las Velas, vnder 13. degrees and 1/2. in latitude
Septentrionall, and 164. degrees in longitude Orientall, vpon the fixed
Meridionall line, which lyeth right with the Iland of Terçera. From
thence we helde our coarse Westward for the space of 280. leagues, till
we came to the point called El capo de Espirito Santo, that, is, The
point of the holy Ghost, lying in the Iland Tandaya, the first Iland of
those that are called Philippinas, Luçones, or Manillas, which is a
countrey with fewe hilles, with some mines of brimstone in the middle
thereof. From the point aforesayde, wee sailed West for the space of
eighteene leagues to the point or entrie of the chanell, which runneth
in betweene that Iland and the Iland of Luçon. This point or entrie
lieth scarce vnder 12. degrees. All the coast that stretcheth from the
entrie of the chanel to the point of El capo del Spirito santo, is not
very faire.
Eight leagues from the sayde point lyeth a hauen of indifferent
greatnesse, called Baya de Lobos, that is, The Bay of Woolues, hauing a
small Iland at the mouth thereof: and within the chanell about halfe a
league from the ende of the sayd Iland lyeth an Iland or cliffe, and
when you passe by the point in the middle of the chanell, then you haue
fiue and twentie fathom deepe, with browne sand: there we found so great
a streame running Westward, that it made the water to cast a skum as if
it had beene a sande, whereby it put us in feare, but casting out our
lead, wee found fiue and twentie fathom deepe.
From the aforesayd entrie of the chanell North, and North and by East
about tenne leagues, lyeth the Island of Catanduanes, about a league
distant from the lande of Luçon, on the furthest point Eastward, and
from the same entrie of the chanell towards the West and Southwest,
lyeth the Iland Capuli about sixe leagues from thence, stretching
Westsouthwest, and Eastnortheast, being fiue leagues long, and foure
leagues broad: and as wee past by it, it lay Northward from vs vnder
twelue degrees and 3/4. and somewhat high lande. Foure leagues from the
aforesayd Iland of Capuli Northwestward lie the three Ilands of the
hauen of Bollon in the Iland of Luçones, stretching North and South
about foure leagues, distant from the firme lande halfe a league,
whereof the furthest Southward lieth vnder thirteene degrees; In this
chanell it is twentie fathome deepe, with white sand, and a great
streame, running Southeast: we passed through the middle of the chanell.
From this chanell wee helde our coarse Southwest, and Southwest and by
West, for the space of twentie leagues, vntill wee came to the West ende
of the Iland of Tycao, which reacheth East and West thirteene leagues.
This point or hooke lyeth vnder 12. degrees and 3/4. In the middle
betweene this Iland and the Iland Capuli there lie three Ilands called
the Faranias, and we ranne in the same course on the Northside of all the
Ilands, at the depth of 22. fathom with white sand.
From the aforesayd West point of the Iland Tycao to the point of Buryas
it is East and West to sayle about the length of a league or a league
and a halfe: we put into that chanell, holding our course South, and
South and by West about three leagues, vntill we were out of the chanell
at sixteene fathome deepe, with halfe white and reddish sande in the
chanell, and at the mouth thereof, whereof the middle lyeth vnder 12.
degrees and 2/3. and there the streames runne Northward.
[Sidenote: The Isle of Masbate.] The Iland of Buryas stretched Northwest
and Southeast, and is low lande, whereof the Northwest point is about
three leagues from the coast of Luçon, but you cannot passe betweene
them with any shippe, but with small foistes and barkes of the countrey.
This shallow channell lieth vnder twelue degrees: and running thorow
the aforesayd chanell betweene the Ilands Tycao and Buryas, as I sayd
before, we sayled Southward about two leagues from the Iland of Masbate,
which stretcheth East and West 8. leagues long, being in bredth 4.
leagues, and lyeth vnder 12. degrees and 1/4. in the middle thereof, and
is somewhat high land.
From the sayd chanell betweene Tycao and Buryas, wee helde our course
Westnorthwest for thirteene leagues, leauing the Iland Masbate on the
Southside, and the Iland Buryas on the North side: at the ende of
thirteene leagues wee came by an Iland called Banton, which is in forme
like a hat, vnder twelue degrees and 2/3. when we had sayled the
aforesayd thirteene leagues and eight leagues more, on the South side
wee left the Iland called Rebuiam, which stretcheth Northwest, and
Northwest and by North, and Southeast, and Southeast and by South, for
the space of eight leagues, being high and crooked lande, whereof the
North point lyeth vnder twelue degrees and 2/3. and there you finde 35
fathom deepe, with white sand.
From the aforesayd Iland of Banton Southward nine leagues, there beginne
and followe three Ilandes, one of them being called Bantonsilla, which
is a small Iland in forme of a sugar loafe: the second Crymara, being
somewhat great in length, reaching East and West about two leagues: the
third Itaa, or the Ile of Goates, hauing certaine houels. By all these
Ilands aforesayd you may passe with all sortes of shippes, whereof the
foremost lyeth Southward vnder twelue degrees and 1/4. From the Iland of
Bantonsilla, or small Banton, wee helde our course Northwest for the
space of foure leagues, to the chanell betweene Ilands called de
Vereies, and the Iland of Marinduque, the Vereies lying on the South
side vnder twelue degrees and 3/4. (which are two small Ilands like two
Frigats) and the Iland Marinduque on the North side vnder twelue
degrees, and 1/4. which is a great Iland, stretching Westnorthwest, and
Eastsoutheast, hauing in length 12. and in bredth 7. leagues. On the
North side, with the Iland Luçon it maketh a long and small chanell,
running somewhat crooked, which is altogether full of shallowes and
sandes, whereby no shippes can passe through it. The furthest point
Westward of the same Iland lyeth vnder thirteene degrees and 1/4. It is
high lande, on the East side hauing the forme of a mine of brimstone or
fierie hill, and on the West side the land runneth downewarde at the
point thereof being round like a loafe of bread: in the chanell
betweene it and the Vereies, there are 18. fathom deepe with small
black sand.
From the aforesaid chanell of Vereies and Marinduque, wee helde our
course Westnorthwest twelue leagues to the lande of Mindora, to the
point or hooke called Dumaryn, lying full vnder thirteene degrees: Fiue
leagues forward from the sayde chanell on the South side wee left an
Iland called Isla de maestro del Campo, that is, The Iland of the
Colonell, lying vnder twelue degrees and 3/4. which is a small and flat
Iland: In this course we had 45 fathom deep white sand.
By this point or end of the Iland Marinduque beginneth the Iland of
Myndoro, which hath in length East and West fiue and twentie leagues,
and in bredth twelue leagues, whereof the furthest point Southward lyeth
vnder thirteene degrees, and the furthest point Northward vnder
thirteene degrees and 2/3. and the furthest point Westward vnder
thirteene degrees. This Iland with the Iland of Luçon maketh a chanell
of fiue leagues broad, and ten or twelue fathom deepe with muddie ground
of diuers colours, with white sande. Fiue leagues forward from
Marinduque lyeth the riuer of the towne of Anagacu, which is so
shallowe, that no shippes may enter into it. From thence two leagues
further lie the Ilands called Bacco, which are three Ilands lying in a
triangle, two of them being distant from the land about three hundred
cubits, and between them and the land you may passe with small shippes:
And from the lande to the other Iland, are about two hundred cubites,
where it is altogether shallowes and sandes, so that where the shippes
may passe outward about 150. cubites from the lande, you leaue both the
Ilands on the South side, running betweene the third Iland and the riuer
called Rio del Bacco, somewhat more from the middle of the chanell
towardes the Iland, which is about a league distant from the other; the
chanell is tenne fathom deepe, with mud and shelles vpon the ground: the
riuer of Bacco is so shallowe, that no ships may enter into it. From
this Iland with the same course two leagues forward, you passe by the
point called El Capo de Rescaseo, where we cast out our lead, and found
that a man may passe close by the lande, and there you shall finde great
strong streames: and halfe a league forward with the same course, lyeth
the towne of Mindoro, which hath a good hauen for shippes of three
hundred tunnes. Three leagues Northward from the same hauen lyeth the
Iland called Cafaa, stretching from East to West, being hilly ground.
From the sayde towne of Myndora, wee helde our course Westnorthwest
eight leagues, till wee came to the poynt or hooke of the sandes called
Tulen, lying vpon the Iland of Luçon, which sande or banke reacheth into
the Sea halfe a league from the coast: you must keepe about an hundred
cubites from it, where you finde eight fathom water, muddie and shellie
ground: you runne along by those sandes North, and North and by West for
the space of two leagues, till you come to the riuer called Rio de
Anasebo: all the rest of the coast called De los Limbones to the month
or entrie of the Bay called Manilla, (which are foure leagues) is sayled
with the same course. The Limbones (which are Ilands so called) are high
in forme like a paire of Organs, with good hauens for small shippes,
running along by the Limbones: and two leagues beyond them on the South
side, wee leaue the Ilands of Fortan, and foure Ilands more, but the
three Ilands of Lubao, which are very low, lie vnder 13. degrees and
1/3. and the Limbones lie in the mouth or entrie of the Bay of Manilla
vnder 14. degrees and 1/4.
From thence we ranne Northwest for the space of sixe leagues to the
hauen of Cabite, keeping along by the land lying on the West side, where
it is shallowe, and is called Los Baixos del Rio de Cannas, The
shallowes of the riuer of Reedes: all along this Bay in the same course,
there is from ten to foure fathom deepe.
Being by the point or hooke of Cabite, then wee kept but an hundred
paces from it, running Southwest, southsouthwest, and South, vntill we
discouered the whole mouth or entrie of the Bay, where we might anker at
foure fathom about two hundred cubites from the lande, and then the
towne of Manilla was two leagues Northward from vs.[49]
[49] The Philippine Islands are an archipelago of about 1400 islands,
forming a dependency of Spain, lying between 4 deg. 40 min and 20 deg.
N. lat., and 116 deg. 40 min. and 126 deg. 30 min. E. lon., and having
the China Sea on the west, and the Pacific Ocean on the East. They are
very imperfectly known at present, but are estimated to have a total
area of 114,000 square miles, and a population of about 10,000,000. The
principal islands of the many hundreds of large and small forming the
group are--Luzon, Mindanao, Palawan, Mindoro, Panay, Negros, Zebu,
Leyte, and Samar.
The Philippines were discovered by Fernando Magalhaens in 1521, in the
reign of Philip II, after whom they were named; and in 1564 the
Spaniards made a settlement on one of the islands, and founded Manila in
1571. They obtained the possession of this important group almost
without bloodshed; and they have preserved it by the extensive diffusion
of the Roman Catholic religion among the Malays, who form the greater
part of the population. The Spaniards have retained the island ever
since, except from 1762 to 1764, during which the English held Manila,
and for the release of which the Spaniards paid a ransom of £1,000,000.
Chap. 2.
The course and voyage of the aforesayd Francisco Gualle out of the
hauen or roade of Manilla, to the hauen of Macao in China, with
all the courses and situations of the places.
Sayling out of the hauen of Cabite, lying in the Bay of Manilla, wee
helde our course Westwarde for the space of eighteene leagues, to the
point called El Cabo de Samballes: and when wee were eight leagues in
our way, wee left the two Ilands Maribillas on the South side, and
sailed about a league from them: the point of Samballes aforesayde lyeth
vnder foureteene degrees, and 2/3. being low land, at the end of the
same coast of Luçon, on the West side.
From the hooke or point aforesayde, wee ranne North, and North and by
West, for the space of fiue and twentie leagues (aboue a league from the
coast of Luçon) to the point called Cabo de Bullinao: all this coast and
Cape is high and hilly ground, which Cape lyeth vnder sixteene degrees
and 2/3. From this Cape de Bellinao we helde our course North, and North
and by East, for 45. leagues to the point called El Cabo de Bojador,
which is the furthest lande Northwarde from the Iland Luçon lying vnder
19. degrees.
The Cape de Bullinao being past the lande maketh a great creeke or
bough, and from this creeke the coast runneth North to the point of
Bojador, being a land full of cliffes and rockes that reach into the
Sea, and the land of the hooke or point is high and hilly ground.
From the point of Bojador, wee helde our course Westnorthwest an hundred
and twentie leagues, vntill we came to the Iland called A Ilha Branca,
or the white Iland, lying in the beginning of the coast and Bay of the
riuer Canton vnder two and twentie degrees, hauing foure and twentie
fathom browne muddie ground.
From the Iland Ilha Branca, wee helde the aforesayde course of
Westnorthwest, for the space of sixteene leagues, to the Iland of Macao
lying in the mouth of the riuer of Canton, and it maketh the riuer to
haue two mouths or entries, and it is a small Iland about three leagues
great.
Chap. 3.
The Nauigation or course of the aforesayd Francisco Gualle out of
the hauen of Macao to Newe Spaine, with the situation and
stretchings of the same, with other notable and memorable things
concerning the same voyage.
When we had prepared our selues, and had taken our leaues of our friends
in Macao, we set saile vpon the foure and twentieth of Iuly, holding our
course Southeast, and Southeast and by East, being in the wane of the
Moone: for when the Moone increaseth, it is hard holding the course
betweene the Ilands, because as then the water and streames run very
strong to the Northwest; wee trauailed through many narrowe channels by
night, hauing the depth of eight or ten fathom, with soft muddie ground,
vntill wee were about the Iland Ilha Branca, yet we saw it not, but by
the height we knew that we were past it.
Being beyond it, we ranne Eastsoutheast an hundred and fiftie leagues,
to get aboue the sands called Os Baixos dos Pescadores, and the
beginning of the Ilands Lequeos on the East side, which Ilands are
called As Ilhas fermosas,[50] that is to say, The faire Ilands. This I
vnderstoode by a Chinar called Santy of Chinchon, and hee sayde that
they lie vnder one and twentie degrees and 3/4. there it is thirtie
fathom deepe: and although wee sawe them not, notwithstanding by the
height and depth of the water we knew we were past them.
[50] Formosa.
Being past As Ilhas fermosas, or the faire Ilands, wee helde our course
East, and East and by North, for two hundred and sixtie leagues, vntill
we were past the length of the Ilands Lequeos,[51] sayling about fiftie
leagues from them: the said Chinar tolde me, that those Ilands called
Lequeos are very many, and that they haue many and very good hauens, and
that the people and inhabitants thereof haue their faces and bodies
painted like the Bysayas of the Ilands of Luçon or Philippinas and are
apparelled like the Bysayas, and that there also are mines of gold: Hee
sayd likewise that they did often come with small shippes and barkes
laden with Bucks and Harts-hides, and with golde in graines or very
small pieces, to traffique with them of the coast of China, which hee
assured mee to bee most true, saying that hee had bene nine times in the
small Ilands, bringing of the same wares with him to China: which I
beleeued to bee true, for that afterwarde I enquired thereof in Macao,
and upon the coast of China, and found that hee sayde true. The furthest
or vttermost of these Ilands stretching Northwarde and Eastwarde, lie
vnder nine and twentie degrees.
[51] The Lu-Tchu (_Chinese_) or Liu-Khiu (_Japanese_) Islands are a
chain of 52 Islands belonging to Japan, and stretching S.W. to Formosa.
Being past these Ilands, then you come to the Ilands of Iapon, whereof
the first lying West and South, is the Iland of Firando, where the
Portugals vse to traffique: they are in length altogether an hundred and
thirtie leagues, and the furthest Eastward lieth under two and thirtie
degrees: we ranne still East, and East and by North, vntill we were past
the sayd hundred and thirtie leagues.
All this information I had of the aforesaid Chinar, as also that there I
should see some mines of brimstone or fierie hilles, being seuentie
leagues beyond them,[52] and thirtie leagues further I should finde four
Ilands lying together, which I likewise found, as hee had tolde mee:
[Sidenote: Other Ilands Eastward of Iapon.] And that being in Iapon, he
sayd hee had there seene certaine men of a very small stature, with
great rolle of linnen cloth about there heads, that brought golde in
small pieces, and some white Cangas of cotton, (which are pieces of
cotton-linnen so called by the Chinars) as also salte-fish like the
Spanish Atun, or Tunney, which hee sayde came out of other Ilands
Eastward from Iapon: and by the tokens and markes which hee shewed mee,
I gessed whereabout those Ilands should bee, and found them not farre
from whence he sayd they lay. Hee sayd likewise that all the Ilands of
Iapon haue good hauens and chanels, being a Countrey full of Rice,
Corne, Fish, and flesh, and that they are indifferent and reasonable
people to traffique with, and that there they haue much siluer.
[52] This probably refers to Fusyiama, which can be seen from Tokio, 80
miles away. Its last eruption took place in 1707.
Running thus East, and East and by North about three hundred leagues
from Iapon, wee found a very hollowe water, with the streame running out
of the North and Northwest, with a full and very broad Sea, without any
hinderance or trouble in the way that wee past: and what winde soeuer
blewe, the Sea continued all in one sort, with the same hollow water
and streame, vntill wee had passed seuen hundred leagues. [Sidenote:
Iapon 900. leagues distant from the coast of America in 37 degrees and
an halfe.] About two hundred leagues from the coast and land of newe
Spaine wee beganne to lose the sayd hollow Sea, and streame: whereby I
most assuredly thinke and beleeue, that there you shall finde a chanell
or straight passage, betweene the firme lande of newe Spaine, and the
Countreys of Asia and Tartaria. Likewise all this way from the
aforesayde seuen hundred leagues, we found a great number of
Whale-fishes and other fishes called by the Spaniards Atuns or Tunnies,
whereof many are found on the coast of Gibraltar in Spaine, as also
Albacoras and Bonitos, which are all fishes, which commonly keepe in
chanels, straights, and running waters, there to disperse their seede
when they breede: which maketh mee more assuredly beleeue, that
thereabouts is a chanel or straight to passe through.
[Sidenote: Read Francis Vlloa chap. 16.] Being by the same course vpon
the coast of newe Spaine, vnder seuen and thirtie degrees and 1/2. wee
passed by a very high and faire lande with many trees, wholly without
snowe, and foure leagues from the lande, you finde thereabouts many
drifts of rootes, leaues of trees, reeds, and other leaues like figge
leaues, the like whereof wee found in great abundance in the countrey of
Iapon, which they eate: and some of those that wee found, I caused to
bee sodden with flesh, and being sodden, they eate like Coleworts: there
likewise wee found great store of Seales: whereby it is to bee presumed
and certainely to bee beleeued, that there are many riuers, bayes, and
hauens along by those coastes to the hauen of Acapulco.
From thence wee ranne Southeast, Southeast and by South, and Southeast
and by East, as wee found the winde, to the point called El Cabo de Sant
Lucas, which is the beginning of the lande of California, on the
Northwest side, lying vnder two and twentie degrees, being fiue hundred
leagues distant from Cape Mendoçino.
[Sidenote: Hauens lately found out.] In this way of the aforesayde fiue
hundred leagues along by the coast, are many Ilands: and although they
bee but small, yet without doubt there are in them some good hauens, as
also in the firme land, where you haue these hauens following, now
lately found out, as that of the Ile of Sant Augustine, lying vnder
thirtie degrees and 3/4. and the Iland called Isla de Cedros, scarce
vnder eight and twenty deg. and 1/4. and the Iland lying beneath Saint
Martyn, vnder three and twentie degrees and 1/2. All this coast and
countrey, as I thinke, is inhabited, and sheweth to be a very good
countrey: for there by night wee sawe fire, and by day smoke, which is a
most sure token that they are inhabited.
From the poynt or hooke of Saint Lucas, to the Southeast side of
California, wee helde our course Eastsoutheast, for the space of 80.
leagues, to the point called El cabo de las corrientes, that is, the
Cape of the streames lying vnder 19. degrees and 2/3. And running this
course, Northward about a league from vs wee sawe three Ilands called
Las tres Marias, (that is to say, The three Maries) running the same
course. About foure leagues from the other Ilands, there are other
Ilands, reaching about two or three leagues: All this way from the mouth
or gulfe of California aforesayd, for the space of the sayd fourescore
leagues, there are great streames that run Westward.
From the point or Cape de las Corrientes, we ranne Southeast, and
sometimes Southeast and by East, for the space of an hundred and thirtie
leagues to the hauen of Acapulco. In this way of an hundred and thirtie
leagues, being twentie leagues on the way, we had the hauen of
Natiuidad, that is, of the birth of the Virgin Mary: and other eight
leagues further, the hauen of Saint Iago, or Saint Iames; and sixe
leagues further, the sea Strand called La Playa de Colima, that is, the
Strand of Colima. All this coast from California to the hauen of
Acapulco is inhabited by people that haue peace and traffique with the
Spaniards, and are of condition and qualities like the people of the
other places of new Spaine.
The conclusion of the Author of this last voyage.
All this description and nauigation haue I my selfe seene, prooued, and
well noted in my voyage made and ended in the yeere of our Lord 1584.
from great China out of the hauen and riuer of Canton, as I will more at
large set it downe vnto your honour, with the longitudes and latitudes
thereof, as God shall permit mee time and leysure, whom I beseech to
send you long and happie dayes.
And the same was truly translated out of Spanish into lowe Dutch
verbatim out of the Originall copy, (which was sent vnto the
Viceroy of the Portugall Indies) by Iohn Huyghen Van Linschoten.
The relation of the nauigation and discouery which Captaine
Fernando Alarchon made by the order of the right honourable Lord
Don Antonio de Mendoça, Vizeroy of New Spaine, dated in Colima,
an hauen of New Spaine.
Chap. 1.
Fernando Alarchon after he had suffered a storme, arriued with his
Fleete at the hauen of Saint Iago, and from thence at the hauen of
Aguaiaual: he was in great perill in seeking to discouer a Bay,
and getting out of the same he discouered a riuer on the coast
with a great current, entring into the same, and coasting along he
descried a great many of Indians with their weapons: with signes
hee hath traffique with them, and fearing some great danger
returneth to his ships.