On Friday the bearers were all excitement. We were to arrive at

Fianárantsoa, the capital of the province, where the Queen was now

encamped and where they would meet with hosts of friends. They therefore

donned their best and our servants had the breakfast cooked long before

we were ready to partake of it. Immediately on starting we crossed the

Matsíatra on a wooden bridge, resting on twenty-six stone piers, built

in the rocky, shallow bed. Noble hills were about us all the way. A

grand ridge, with the Matsíatra at its foot, went off to the south

south-east. Under the lofty mass of Avománitra two level valleys were

stretched out, containing no less than eighty hamlets, with several

chapels, chief of which was the village of Natáo. Beyond this point we

met the Mánuláfaka river, coming through from the west; and then

climbing a lofty ascent, along which a broad road had been newly cut, we

suddenly came in sight of the camp, with a long valley at our feet,

dotted with the green rings of the Betsileo válás; and beyond them all

the town of Fianárantsoa, crowning its solitary hill and standing forth

in calm dignity like a veritable Queen. That was no common sight in this

poorly peopled land.

[Illustration:

FIANÁRANTSOA.

]

We arrived at noon; met a warm welcome from all the members of the

mission; and were hospitably received into their homes. We were truly

fatigued with our long journey over rough roads and looked forward with

pleasure to a few days’ rest.

FIANARAN-TSOA occupies a commanding position. It is built upon a hill,

detached from the range to which it belongs; and the houses are erected

in lines upon the hill-side, but do not cover it completely; they form

three special groups upon the hill. The róva or Government stockade,

with the lofty Government house, is on the summit of the hill, 4200 feet

above the sea, while the market occupies a broad and open space at the

bottom. The town is in some respects an imitation of Antanánarivo; and

it has a lake and island, with a garden and summer house in the centre,

resembling (in a small degree) the lake on the west side of the Capital.

The town is larger than any other in the upper provinces of Madagascar,

except the Capital; it has over a thousand houses, and from five to six

thousand people. A large proportion of the inhabitants are Hovas from

Imerina, being the officers and soldiers of the garrison. But there are

many Betsileo; some of the chief civil officers are Betsileo, men of

wealth and standing in the community, with numerous dependents around

them. Below the houses are planted thick hedges of the prickly pear,

which are, next to the deep ditches, the great resource of Malagasy

engineers, in the fortifying of their towns. These hedges were probably

a terror to their bare-legged and bare-footed enemies in the days of the

shield and spear. At present the traditions and conservative habits of

the people maintain them, at great inconvenience even to their

well-booted friends. At the foot of the hill there are four valleys,

running off north, north-west, and south. They are bright and green in

the rice season with a multitude of fields; every little knoll and

peninsula is occupied with Betsileo hamlets and their green rings; and

amongst them all the Ranofotsy river winds like a silver thread.

The town and its people were not in their normal condition during our

visit; and whether in relation to their ordinary life or to the

religious state of the three churches, we were unable to see for

ourselves what they generally are and do. The visit of the Queen and her

court had disarranged all their ordinary concerns; and that with good

reason; for it was a great event in their history; and it was being

carried out in a spirit which would render the visit a blessing to the

Betsileo people for many days to come. Radáma the first had entered the

province with his armies fifty years ago to extend his conquests and

consolidate them. At an earlier date his English drill-sergeant had

covered himself with infamy by the severity of his treatment of the

Betsileo people, and of the Antanósis beyond them. But though the

Betsileos had remained subject, even Radáma could not master the

rock-fortress of Ikongo. For more than forty years the Betsileos had had

a hard time under Hova rule. They had been fleeced by excessive

exactions and they had been left in complete ignorance by their

task-masters. With Christianity came justice, light, and peace. The Hova

Christians, to their honour be it said, began to gather the Betsileo

around them for worship; they became ashamed of their hard dealings, and

their rule grew much more gentle. The presence and instruction of

English Missionaries had greatly strengthened these improvements; many

churches had been established; hundreds of children were being taught in

the schools; the Betsileo were as welcome to these services as the

Hovas. And now the Queen had come to see her people; to call them around

her; to make acquaintance with them personally, to meet them in their

tribes; and to speak to them with authority on questions in which their

welfare was deeply concerned. At the time of our visit this intercourse

of the Queen, the Prime Minister, and the chief officers, with the

people was already producing good fruit. The people were loud in praise

of the Queen’s friendliness, of her kind speeches, her royal gifts. She

had paid special attention to the governor of the Tanala, the princess

Hiovana, a great favourite with every one. And the camp and its kabárys

were the resort of thousands of visitors every day. Sublunary

considerations had entered no doubt into the question of the visit. The

herds of fat cattle offered as presents meant something; and the

officers and their dependents lived on Betsileo rice. Nevertheless such

things both the rich and the poor of the province could for once afford

to pay; and under the security of property prevailing as the result of

good government and of Christian feeling, material products like these

will speedily be multiplied to them a hundred-fold.

The Queen’s camp was pitched on a picturesque knoll, in the open valley

on the north side of Fianáran. Towards the east was the royal

court-yard, surrounded by a wooden palisade; in the centre of which was

pitched the scarlet tent, intended for the Sovereign’s personal use;

three other tents were behind it; in the corner was the cooking tent, a

black affair about which there was no sham; and on the west was a wooden

platform, on which the Queen sat with the officers of government around

her in the public assemblies that were held. The scarlet umbrella held

over her head, always denoted to the people, even at a distance, that

their Sovereign had appeared in public. The tents of the officers and

troops, and the clusters of tents belonging to the Betsileo tribes,

which had marched in from a distance, were arranged in excellent order.

Many of the officers had brought their families with them; and both the

camp and the houses in the town were crowded with people.

Our arrival was duly notified to the Prime Minister and the Queen; and

on Saturday, at a special private audience, we paid our respects, and

were graciously received. Numerous presents of turkeys, geese, fowls,

beef, and eggs, began to flow in in a stream; and many of the leading

Christian people, whose names are known in England, came to pay us a

visit. One lively friend of ours very kindly sent her turkeys cooked;

and as to the rest my kind hostess expressed it as her opinion that she

would require an extra man to guard and feed the extensive stock of

poultry of which Mr. Cameron and I had suddenly become possessors. The

Churches also failed not to notice our arrival and sent us presents of

the same kind.

On Sunday we had the pleasure of worshipping with the Queen in the camp.

From the royal platform the sight of the vast congregation was very

striking. There were eight thousand persons present, of whom the inner

and larger portion were seated on the ground. Beneath the platform, and

just in front of the Queen, were several rows of women who formed the

choir. Beyond them in the centre were the women and ladies of the

general congregation. The men were on the right. And a broad circle of

men behind both closed them all in. The dress of all was exceedingly

neat and clean. The men wore the large straw hat, usual to the Hovas,

with its black velvet band. The lambas both of men and women were to a

large extent white; but many were striped with black; many were blue,

others of a check pattern; and a great number were stamped with pink

flowers. Exposed to the sun, the men kept their hats on, and when he

shone forth brightly, an army of umbrellas was put up, dark and light

blue, brown and white, to temper the heated rays. Over all was a sky of

pale blue, flecked with clouds driven rapidly by the strong south-east

winds. The platform was crowded with the ladies and officers of the

Court, conspicuous amongst whom, and seated close to the Queen, was

Hióvana, the governor of the Tanála tribes. Most were on the ground; the

few chairs had been brought by their occupants and were of various

shapes and sizes. The Queen was simply dressed in a white lamba, and had

a large Bible on her knee; the scarlet umbrella was held above her head.

The service was after the Congregational and Presbyterian order, and was

conducted by the native ministers, with as much propriety as such

services are among the oldest Churches in England. The service was

opened by an Anthem, in which the ninety-first Psalm was sung through,

the band accompanying in a most appropriate manner. The Scriptures were

then read and prayer offered. Again chapter iii. of Lamentations was

sung very sweetly; and the first sermon followed from the text: “For our

light affliction, which is but for a moment, worketh for us a far more

exceeding and eternal weight of glory.” The favourite hymn of the

Malagasy, No. 46, was next given out, and was sung by the entire

congregation with great spirit: the Scriptures were again read and

prayer offered. There was another hymn from the Pilgrim’s Progress, a

favourite also; and then Andriambélo preached from the text: “How shall

we escape if we neglect so great salvation?” The usual dismissal hymn

was sung and the blessing pronounced; and the vast congregation

dispersed. The general comment on the sermons was, “Rainitávy’s sermon

was the more clever; but Andriambélo respect and love most; and we

listen to what he says.” I never attended a more interesting native

service at any mission I have visited.

During the week we had the opportunity of seeing one or more of the

public entertainments which occupied the intervals of serious business

with the Queen and her people. In these the separate tribes took part,

some on one day, some on another. Tribal dances, parades, the special

music of certain localities, were exhibited and played. To me one of the

most interesting was an exhibition of mimic war with the old simple

weapons of the spear and hide-shield. The way in which the scout used

his eyes, searching every thing for the expected enemy, and in which he

managed to cover every part of his body by his small round shield, was

very striking. In all these exhibitions, everything was graceful and

dignified; nothing was outré.

In these public gatherings we had a good opportunity of seeing how Hova

and Betsileo ladies dress their hair. The hair of all native women is

black; in those of pure Hova blood it is smooth, but in those who have

more or less African taint, the hair is crimped and curled naturally. In

both cases, individuals differ in the fulness and length of their hair.

In some it is very rich and glossy and black, an “ornament” indeed. The

hair of a Hova lady is divided into twenty or twenty-four sections; in

each of these the hair is again divided into a number of tails which are

plaited together, and the plait is tied up into a small bow; when the

dressing is complete, there are some twenty-four of these bows on the

head. The number varies with the taste of the wearer: most of the ladies

I saw had from sixteen to twenty-four. The Betsileo hair is done up in

several styles; in plaits: in round plaited curls; and the like. All

these methods take up much time; and are renewed at intervals too long

for cleanliness and comfort. Many Hova ladies therefore are adopting the

simpler system prevalent among English women, and dress their hair

daily.

On Wednesday, October 1st, there was a public Examination of the

Betsileo schools, in the presence of the Queen and Prime Minister. Two

thousand scholars assembled in the inside of the Palace Court. After

singing the national hymn, they went through a variety of exercises to

exhibit their attainments in reading, knowledge of Scripture, mental

arithmetic, and the like. The questions were put chiefly by Mr. G. Shaw,

the able Superintendent of the Normal School and of Education generally

in the central Betsileo; but the Prime Minister also joined in the

Examination, showed an intelligent appreciation of the progress made,

and gave new proof of the deep interest which the Queen and he have long

taken in the education of the people.

His Excellency himself delivered the prizes. In addition to the rewards

assigned by the mission, the Queen presented every holder of a prize

with a new hymn-book and Testament. The Prime Minister also (who had

loaded his pockets with money) gave them dollars, half-dollars, and

broken money, according to merit: and finally the Queen presented every

scholar before her with a new dress. Nearly two thousand were given

away, which it took his Excellency two hours to place in the scholars’

hands. But the gift produced a deep impression, and showed the people

that their Sovereign was really anxious that they should learn. Before

them all, the Queen heartily thanked Mr. Shaw and the members of the

mission, for what they had done for the instruction of her Betsileo

people.

The following day, a public kabáry was summoned, attended with the usual

ceremonies, that the Queen might specially address her people on this

subject of education. The soldiers of the line were brought up in force

to keep the ground. The three regiments of guards immediately surrounded

the platform. One of these regiments is dressed in red knickerbockers:

another has trousers, striped pink and white: the third, consisting of

young officers, has a uniform of rifle green and is armed with the

Snider rifle. The Queen wore a dress of light green watered silk: above

it was her scarlet velvet mantle; and she wore a large gold coronet. Her

chair was of scarlet and gold; and her footstool was one that had been

worked by one of Mrs. Shaw’s girls, and had been presented to her on the

previous day. The assembly was very large; there must have been fifteen

thousand people present.

As soon as the Queen appeared the assembly rose; and when she stood in

her place, a general salute was presented; the Prime Minister also was

saluted as Commander-in-Chief of the army; and the business of the day

was proceeded with. A royal speech in Madagascar takes a peculiar form,

derived doubtless from long tradition; it contains many antique phrases

and modes of address; and its general style of appeal to the people,

points to the days when the entire tribe was taken into consultation by

the chiefs and rulers, and a general vote settled the question in hand.

After expressing in a clear and distinct voice, her pleasure in meeting

her people once more, the Queen uttered several sentences, usual to

these assemblies, in which she dwelt upon the close and affectionate

relations subsisting between them and herself. “You are a father and

mother to me: having you, I have all.... And if you confide in me, you

have a father and a mother in me. Is it not so, O ye under heaven?” To

which with a deep voice, the people reply, “It is so.” Passing at length

to the subject specially before her, the Queen said: “My days in the

south are now few; for I am about to go up to Imerina; therefore I will

say a word about the schools. And I say to you all here in Betsileo,

whether north of the Matsiatra or south of the Matsiatra, cause your

children to attend the school. My desire is that, whether high or low,

whether sons of the nobles, or sons of the judges, or sons of the

officers, (here she used the Betsileo term, Andevohova) or sons of the

centurions, let all your sons and let your daughters attend the schools

and become lovers of wisdom.” The Prime Minister then in the Queen’s

name, addressed the assembly on the subject of usury, a great evil among

poor natives, and only too common in stages of society like that in

Madagascar; and said: “Thus saith the Queen; all that usury exacted by

the Hovas from the Betsileo is remitted; and only the original debt

shall remain.”

After a general salute, the tribes came forward in succession and

replied to the Queen, thanking her for her words and her affection: and

expressing their approval of her sentiments. The tribes addressed her

through their chief men, who on such occasions have a good opportunity

of displaying their oratorical power. The first who now came forward was

the Andrían or Prince of the Betsileo people, the head of the Isandra

family, which ruled the country before its surrender to Radáma. His

sister and he are Christians and most interesting people. The best

speech of the day was made by the judge of Fianárantsoa, speaking for

the people of that town and district. The old gentleman is very stout

and very witty. He stalked up and down in the open space before the

Queen, flourishing his long stick; and with all sorts of compliments to

her rule, expressed his agreement with her views: he added also; “Trust

your Betsileo people: have no fear of your Betsileo people: they have

begun to read the New Testament: and the people who read the New

Testament are an obedient, orderly people.” But the old gentleman had

worked himself into a great heat; and at each return up the line of his

companions he drank copiously from the water-gourd, which was held and

replenished by one of his faithful henchmen: while at each pause of his

earnest address the people responded; _Izány hoy izy_. “Hear, hear.” “He

says it.” Other matters then occupied attention. A new governor was

appointed to Fianáran; the governor of Ambohimandroso was confirmed in

his position; and questions of jurisdiction were arranged. After which

the Queen retired and the Assembly dispersed, the kabáry having lasted

three hours.

I need not dwell further on our proceedings in Fianáran, or our pleasant

interviews with officers of the government, and others prominent in the

Christian life of the Capital, as well as of the Betsileo province; or

our visits to the Churches; and our hospitable reception by the

governors old and new. I will only add a word respecting an important

interview we held with the governor of the Tanála people, the princess

Hióvana and her family. The TANALA district lies about twenty miles to

the east of the central line of the Betsileo provinces. As its name

indicates it is the “land of forests.” It is in fact a continuation of

the first terrace under the hills, viz. of the plain of Ankay, which we

had crossed at Moramánga and Ifódy. The plain is ploughed deep in all

directions and contains a multitude of low hills. On one of these is

built the town of AMBOHIMANGA, the capital of the district. It contains

two hundred houses and a population of 1200 persons. Some of the houses

are large and convenient: many are frail and poor. There are numerous

villages scattered up and down the district, which is well watered; and

the Tanála people may probably amount to twenty thousand in number. The

river Mangóro flows along the Ankay plain from the north almost into the

Tanála country; and then turns eastward, breaks through the hills in

rough rapids and falls into the sea. The west boundary of the Tanála is

a noble wall of rock running up and down the country from north to

south: and its buttresses are formed here and there of hills that are

truly massive and grand. The forest which covers them is the same that

we crossed at Angavo; the inner line, which separates the Central

provinces in their entire length from the districts nearer the coast. In

this its lower portion it is very wide, and still contains magnificent

trees.

The Tanála people are reckoned with the Betsileo: but I doubt whether

they are of Betsileo blood. They seem rather to be a portion of the

Bezánozáno, who people Ankay; and these again are part of the

Betsimisáraka tribes. Their country is extremely unhealthy. Placed

between the two lines of forest, and their decaying vegetation, it

suffers greatly, for eight months of the year, from fever. And none can

reside there permanently, who have not become _víta-tázo_,

“fever-proof.” This constitutes the religious difficulty. Gladly would

the Mission place one of its English families there to take charge of

the Tanála people, were it not for the unusual risks which they would be

called to run. We talked the matter over with Hióvana and her brother in

Fianáran. She impressed us as being a truly noble lady. She is an

eloquent speaker in public; and her addresses at the kabarys are

listened to with delight by the assembled multitudes. But she can speak

with peculiar beauty of voice and tone in private: and the shrewd and

touching pleas with which she and her brother urged that we should

appoint an English missionary to their people, were presented with

earnestness and power. They have always given a warm welcome to those

missionaries who have paid them a visit: and any one who would spend

some months of the year with them would do the Tanála people great

service. They ought at least to command the services of one of the

ablest native ministers, whom the Mission can supply.

For several years I had taken a deep interest in the southern part of

the Betsileo province and in the town of Ambóhimandróso; to whose people

the Society had long desired to send a missionary: we now prepared to

visit it. On Friday, October 3d, the whole party from the Capital,

accompanied by Mr. Brockway, left Fianáran. The greater part of our road

lay along a fine valley, narrow and bordered by peculiarly noble hills.

The parallel ridges of the Betsileo Country run generally from

north-north-west to south-south-east. This valley ran for twenty miles a

little west of south. The ridges therefore all crossed it; but some

mighty force had broken them through at this point, had swept away their

rocky remains: and left great precipices, buttresses and promontories

overhanging the narrow cleft along which we journeyed. Each headland has

its distinctive name. Nothing but photography can duly show the grandeur

of these rocks; and only a map on a large scale can rightly delineate

the country. The highest mountain in the Betsileo, a grand peak, named

Ambohitramanjáka, “king’s town,” we left up a narrow valley on the west

of our road. All the way we had on one side or the other, the drain of

the valley, the river Ranofotsy. We camped in the valley at night, and

had the hills on the east of us all on fire.

Next day we came early to the end of the valley, which is a cul de sac:

and saw in it and in the hills to the east the sources of the Ranofotsy.

To the west of the terminating hill is a most noble boulder standing

alone on the mountain side, called Vato-ávo, “high rock.” Mr. Cameron

and I climbed it and found that we had unwittingly secured a most

important station for the survey of the country. Both Fianáran and

Ambohimandroso were visible: it is the only point in the line of route

from which both can be seen at once. We saw at our feet on the south the

great rice basin of Ambohimandroso, studded with hamlets perched on the

red clay hills. East and west were enormous gneiss mountains: while far

to the south was the lofty granite ridge of Kipaséha, its sharp saw-like

crest standing clear against the sky. Near to us was the Betsileo

village of Ivátoavo, through which we were to pass, and in which the

houses are built in and amongst a mass of gigantic boulders, with a

thick cactus hedge as their protection. As we passed, the women all came

out to look at us. We also looked at them; for their hair was fastened

up into a number of flat buttons, which looked like a supply of black

penny-pieces hanging about their ears. We reached our destination at

four o’clock.

AMBOHIMANDROSO is an important town. It is situated on a round clay

hill: the Hova fort and governor’s house being as usual on the crest,

3260 feet above the sea. The houses are three hundred in number; and the

total population must be fifteen hundred. Most of the houses, according

to the usual Betsileo fashion, are built of wood. The posts are strong

and square, the walls are of thick boards fixed upright: and the roof,

as in Imerina, has a high pitch. It is formed of strong timbers and is

thatched with leaves or reeds. The windows of Betsileo houses are small:

the door also is small and the door-sill is high above the ground: a

post therefore is provided for the paterfamilias and his belongings, on

which each carefully stands before he doubles himself up and makes his

way through the opening. It is worth noting that in Malagasy the same

word is used for door and window; both being constructed in the same

fashion and in old houses differing little from one another. The houses

of the garrison, of the governor and his officers, follow the fashion of

Imerina; they have large doors; are strongly made; and their sides are

neatly panneled. But as elsewhere they lack finish; and but little

provision is made for privacy. Not a single house we saw had a glass

window in it, to provide light, when rain and wind compel the owner to

close his wooden shutters. The newest houses outside the fort are being

made of clay. The town has on the south other lofty hills: but as in

Ankay and Menabe, the sandy parts of these hills have worked into deep

hollows which at a distance look like scars and sores upon the

hill-side.

On the north, east and west the basin of Ambohimandroso is more level;

the rice fields are numerous, and the little hamlets with their rings of

verdure dot the country everywhere. The basin is watered by a single

stream, flowing from the eastern hills. Its supply is not overabundant.

Hence the curious name given to the place, _Tsi-énim-paréhy_, “not

enough for the rice cultivation.” A larger supply of water would

doubtless produce far greater crops in both portions of the district.

Beyond a low ridge to the east is a second open valley with numerous

arms, rich also in villages and rice grounds: several of these villages

have chapels: and it is the comparative abundance of population, which

renders this town so eligible as the residence of an English Missionary.

The Chapel of Ambohimandroso occupies an excellent site and is of large

size, sixty feet by thirty. But it needs a great deal of improvement to

make it, what it ought to be, the model chapel of the district; and it

will be well worth the while of the Mission to assist the congregation

in giving to it that position.

We spent a pleasant Sabbath with the people: and though the governor of

the town, the native pastor and his excellent wife, and many other

principal members of the church were absent with the Queen, we had

several serious consultations with those still here, on the provision

they would make for the comfort of the missionary, who was now on his

way from England. How far would they co-operate with him in securing for

their children a more thorough Christian education than they have ever

enjoyed? On the whole they responded to our views; and we believe that

the Station can be made as great a position of usefulness as any in the

Betsileo Country.

We spent three days in Ambohimandroso, gathering information on many

points of value. We were encamped in the Chapel, and two young officers

of the garrison showed us great attention in securing our comfort and

making our habitation less airy. The butchers of the town were not so

complaisant. And when our cook enquired after some beef for us, as a

change from the constant supply of poultry, they answered that there was

a good quantity of “old beef” still unsold; and they declined to kill

until that had been expended. It mattered little. Mr. Cousins was an

admirable caterer; and though our Irish butter somewhat failed us, yet

other English stores, with good turkeys, chickens, bread made by English

ladies, sweet potatoes, plantain fritters and other trifles, provided

sufficient sustenance even for hungry Englishmen in the keen, hard air.

During Monday we arranged for the preparation of a temporary house for a

missionary: and then made a careful survey of the town and

neighbourhood; we connected our observations completely with those made

by Mr. Cameron at Fianárantsoa, and took sketches of the ground. Mr.

Pillans went off early with a select band of bearers to climb the peak

of Iody, ten miles to the south-west, and take observations of the

granite ridge, which bounded the horizon beyond.

During the day Mr. Cousins made special enquiry concerning the IBÁRA

tribes, among whom the Mission will be glad in due time to preach the

gospel; since almost none of them have heard it. He found with much

satisfaction that they are akin to the Betsileo and in many respects

resemble them. Their language is substantially the same: here and there

he caught a new word, or an older form of idiom. But he judged that as

the language of the Tanála and the Betsileo differs but moderately from

the Hova dialect, so the Ibára differs but little from the Betsileo.

They build too the same kind of houses: on the hill tops they erect

their forts, while in the open valleys they form válas or hamlets with

the green fence, and plant gardens around them. They also have large

herds of cattle. But as the Betsileo differ from the Hovas in the mode

of dressing the hair (though closely akin to them), so do the Ibára

differ from the Betsileo. While the latter tie up the hair in

penny-pieces, the Ibára form a topknot on the crown of the head,

profusely plaistered with grease. Two Ibára men turned up in the town

during the day and came to visit us. We found that the tribe lives west

and south-west of this place. For a day and half (thirty miles) there

are still Betsileo villages, even below the foot of the hills and

forest. Then for four days Ibára occupy the country; and beyond them are

Sákalávas. M. Grandidier who approached these tribes from the west coast

indicates in his maps the same thing.

The chief town of the Ibára in this direction is Benarivo: and they hold

considerable intercourse with the Hovas and Betsileo. They look on the

present governor of Ambohimandroso as a friend; and through him they

only recently sent a friendly message to the Queen at Fianáran, with a

small brass gun. There is hope that the gospel will soon find an

entrance among them. It happens, in God’s good providence, that the wife

of the pastor at Ambohimandroso is herself an Ibára, the daughter of the

chief ruling in Benarivo. When young she was taken captive in one of the

Hova wars and went to the Capital a slave. There she married. Her

husband and she bought their freedom and after a time leaving the

Capital, they came south and settled in the Betsileo. Making enquiries,

they found that her father and many relatives were still living in

Benarivo. She was warmly welcomed home again, with her husband: and from

Ambohimandroso, where he holds his appointment, they occasionally visit

her friends. Both husband and wife are good Christian people: and it is

hoped that through them, an entrance for light and truth and grace may

be secured among the Ibára tribes. We can hope this the more, that

though the rule of the Hovas in the past has often been hard, selfish

and grasping, a great improvement has taken place among them. They are

far more merciful, gentle and just toward other tribes in modern days,

than they were: and they are far more willing to help in raising them.

Were all the local officers (notwithstanding the temptations of their

poverty), to be as considerate and just as the Queen, the Prime Minister

and a large number of the officers immediately around them, the whole

system of Malagasy government would be raised, and a moral conquest of

the whole island would be a mere question of time.

A short day’s journey to the south of Ambohimandroso brought us by

several important villages, to IMAHAZONY, one of our principal

out-stations. In a pool below the hill on which it stands, I was

delighted to find a large cluster of blue water-lilies. Imahazony is a

large town, containing two hundred houses. It is a busy place, and has

many rice fields and several villages in the valleys around it. There is

a great deal of sedimentary clay in this south part of the Betsileo, and

towards the east the high hills give rise to many small streams of

water. We had much pleasant talk with the elders of the congregation

about their religious wants. It was plain that they were not far

advanced: and that the whole district stands greatly in need of good

schools and systematic instruction.

We had now reached the south border of the Betsileo country. Indeed we

might say that we were close to three boundaries which enclose its

southern end. And when in the afternoon, my colleague and I climbed the

ridge of Kinanga, which overhangs the town, we had these chains of hills

prominent and near. On the west and south-west was the granite ridge of

Kipaseha, towering over the country. Within it were two lower groups of

gneiss hills, with the forest close by, bounding the Ambohimandroso

valley. To the east was the lofty mountain of Ambóndrombé, covered with

dense wood. Directly south was a line of hills crossing the country from

the one set of ridges to the other and shutting us completely in. Beyond

the town to the south we noted several villages, and ten miles away,

upon a spur of these hills, with the green forest just beyond, was the

village of Angalampona, the last village peopled by the Betsileo in that

direction. This was the boundary of the Hova dominion; and of the sphere

which the Mission has yet occupied. Imahazony is on the line of Lat. 22°

S.

It must not be supposed that on the other side of the southern forest

there is no population. Population does not cease, but it changes its

character. What change there may be in the ground no one could clearly

describe. One thing however we had ourselves observed with deep

interest. The fall in the ground of fourteen hundred feet, immediately

south of Ivato-avo, as well as the profusion of red clay outside the

gneiss hills, indicated that in the basin of Ambohimandroso we had

descended on to the first terrace toward the south. We were no longer on

the high level of the Imerina and Betsileo plateau. It is exceedingly

probable that some few miles beyond another and lower terrace is

reached, as in the north of the island. From the top of Iody Mr. Pillans

observed that the country seemed to be falling and to be more open: and

the natives were unanimous in declaring that in the south the country

was more level and more easy to travel than the Betsileo. As on the

eastern and western slopes, so towards the south also, the ground

doubtless falls in broad, well-watered terraces, till it reaches the

great, level plains observed near the extreme end of the island. It is

hoped that in due time some members of the Mission may solve these

questions by a personal examination of the district.

Whatever it may be with the geography of the country, one thing we know,

that both in and beyond the south forest, the country is occupied by

Ibára tribes, and that their villages are numerous. Their capital is

said to be Ivóhibé, a day and a half to the southward and built on a big

hill. The name of the chief is Rebáhy. His people and he did not burn

their idols when the Hovas did. They still practice divination by the

sikidy, and observe lucky and unlucky days; they sacrifice on old stones

on joyful occasions, and give thanks to their ancestors who to them have

become gods. Their speech is louder, broader and more uncouth than that

of the Betsileo. Their chief believes himself to be a great man. No Hova

is ever allowed to see him. When he goes abroad his own people also are

debarred that pleasure. His attendants cry out: “The Biby is coming,”

and every one disappears. His kingdom goes a long way to the south: the

people have a trading place below the hills, called Soava: and they

visit a port on the west coast, called Isáli. East of these Ibára are

the Tanála again.

Much remains to be learned concerning these districts. To the south and

south-east there are two small provinces, Anosy and Vangaindrano, never

yet visited by the Mission; and yet in one, or both, of them there is

Christian work going on through the medium of the Hova officers and

garrisons. The beautiful and fertile valley of Ambolo coming down to the

sea-coast near Fort Dauphin, is reckoned to the Betsimisáraka people.

But the Hova armies have always reached it through the Betsileo

provinces: and the river Mangáry is said to be the line of route.

Radáma’s troops took full possession of the place fifty years ago, and

pulled down the French flag as unauthorised. Hova garrisons have

occupied both districts since that time, and they are said to contain a

large population. It was from one of these provinces that three years

ago some soldiers came to the Capital, after a long march of two months,

seeking for Christian books and Bibles. Hova Christians had been

teaching the people: chapels had been built: the Sabbath was observed:

congregations were gathered. But they had only four Bibles. And as they

had heard a rumour that plentiful supplies of Bibles and Hymn books

could be obtained in Antananarivo, they resolved to go and see if it was

true. The strangers came. They happily fell into the hands of Mr.

Parrett; who showed them the wonders of the Mission Press; supplied all

their wants and more; and sent them back again with rejoicing hearts.

Ought we not to try and learn more about people like these?

From every part of Imahazony, one can see on the east the massive

mountain of AMBONDROMBE. It is distant twelve or fourteen miles, and is

some ten miles in length. It stands on the edge of the Betsileo plateau:

and from the terrace beneath it to the east it must present one of the

grandest objects in Madagascar. It is covered with dense forest. While

at Imahazony we heard much about it. It is considered to be the entrance

to the Malagasy Hades. Its Betsileo name is I-rántsy, “the evil place.”

It is peopled by Tánin-dulo, “sons of ghosts.” “Have you been there?”

(we asked of our informant). “No: I dare not go.” “There is a large

village there,” he added. “Are there any houses in the village?” “No:

none.” All exhibited a great fear of the place. “Well: we Englishmen

would not be afraid to go and see it.” “Then you must be very good men.”

The people stoutly assured us, that on the day the Queen arrived at

Fianáran, the ghosts fired three guns! “We heard them.” When Radáma came

into this province he sent three officers to examine Ambóndrombé. Of

these one was Raháníraka, so well known in later years as a Government

Secretary. He reported that there is in the hill a great cave and that

in certain states of the wind, the sound of guns seems to issue from the

cave. On this occasion the people probably heard the guns at Fianáran

direct.

To the east of Ambóndrombé is the lofty rock of Ikongo, on which is

built a native fortress, a maiden stronghold hitherto attempted by

enemies in vain. Radáma and his army tried it in his Betsileo campaign.

The rock is of peculiar shape, is unusually precipitous and is

accessible only by ropes from above. Ikongo is the head of a little

kingdom, containing some ten to twenty thousand people. Its chief is

very proud of his independence. But it separates him and his people from

their Betsileo neighbours: and leaves them all in ignorance and

barbarism, Efforts will be made by the Mission to get access to the

people and supply them with the knowledge of the Gospel and the means of

education. The Queen when in Fianáran sent presents and friendly

messages to the Chief of Ikongo; and received a friendly embassy in

return.

From Imahazony we returned to Fianárantsoa by the eastern route, under

the long buttresses of Ambondrombe and up the great rice valley lying to

the east of Ambohimandroso. We rested at Itsimaítsohasóa, the former

capital of this district; and were pleased to find a most efficient

school and a goodly band of scholars. This district, the fifth and most

southern of the Betsileo provinces, is called Iárindráno, “abounding in

water,” and it thoroughly justifies its name. From Fianáran southward

the great gneiss hills are full of springs, and the little streams are

abundant on every side. But off the main road of the province the

villages are few. We traversed with ease the long valley south of

Midongy; passed beneath the lofty peaks of Sánga-sanga and Vohimánitra;

crossed the narrow col of Maneva; and skirting the great boulders of

Ieranány, late in the day, reached Fianárantsoa once more in safety.

Our rough journeyings were beginning to tell upon our health: and in

Fianáran I was laid up for several days with a severe cold. At this time

my colleague and Mr. Cousins paid a visit to the important town of

IFANJAKANA, which it was proposed to make the centre of a Mission

district and the residence of an English Missionary. Ifánjakána is now

the chief town in the Sandra province: (4630 feet above the sea); and is

the principal residence of the Sandra family, which, before the days of

Radáma, ruled the Betsileo people, south of the Matsiatra. This province

lies almost entirely west of the road which we had travelled from the

capital: it extends westward to the edge of the hills and the line of

forest: and it contains several important towns.

My colleagues reached Ifánjakána in eight hours. They travelled to the

north and west along the Ranofotsy; then crossed various ridges and

narrow valleys to the north-west of the river: passed the village of

Itomboana; with many hamlets in fertile valleys: and reached the high

ground, scored with long clefts and valleys on which Ifánjakána stands.

Beyond it to the west the plateau is high and so continues for ten

miles, when it falls away towards the lower plains. They found the town

to contain nearly three hundred houses, with fifteen hundred people. On

a high ridge facing it to the eastward is the township of Ivohitromby,

containing as many more, and giving the same number of people to

Government service. The valley east of the town swells into uplands

which go off in the direction of Ambohinamboarina. All these valleys

contain a scattered population, which has Ifánjakána on its western

edge. But a little to the south-east is a fine cluster of villages. Near

the ruined town of Mahazarivo are the tombs of the Sandra Kings,

surrounded by gigantic trees, planted at the time of their burial. Of

the town of Nasandratony the sister of the present prince, granddaughter

of the last King, is the head.

Farther west is an important place, Ambohivolamena, “gold-town.” And

still beyond, to the south-west, there is a town more important still,

Ikálamavóny. It stands below the edge of the plateau, in the lower

plain, and it has a high and massive hill behind it. Sheltered from the

easterly winds its climate is warm, and its people suffer much from

fever. It has often suffered in former days from the raids of the Ibára

tribes, and has both had its houses burned and its people destroyed. It

has long flourished in recent days under an excellent Hova Governor; and

it is owing to his zeal and skill and taste that the Church at

Ikálamavóny is the handsomest place of worship in the whole Betsileo.

The congregations of this cluster of towns in the Isandra district have

had a most interesting religious history: they have been willing

scholars, under more than one zealous and devoted native teacher; and

the English Missionary who will take them under his charge, will have

before him a sphere of solid usefulness.

I need scarcely say that throughout our visit, under the guidance and

with the companionship of Mr. Cameron, we followed up with great care

the survey of the country. We based it on the survey of Imerina,

commenced by Mr. Cameron four years ago. It is laid down by an unbroken

succession of cross bearings of a long line of conspicuous points, both

up and down the province: and by a series of latitudes, determined by

meridian transit of the sun and of various principal stars. Throughout

our journey also both ways, I daily placed in my Journal a sketch of the

ground traversed; and the number of these local sketches is large. The

result of all these observations is embodied in the Map of the district;

and only a portion of these results has been referred to now.

As with the map of Imerina the key of the map is the position of the

Capital: so in the Betsileo, the key of the whole is the town of

Fianárantsoa. By several observations, Mr. Cameron fixed the latitude of

the town at 21° 27′ 10″ S. Judging from his map, M. Grandidier, who

crossed the Betsileo at this point, makes the latitude the same. Mr.

Cameron was foiled in his attempt to determine the longitude by

independent observations of Jupiter’s satellites and moon culminating

stars: the rolling mists obscuring both moon and planet at the moment

when they were needed to be clear. But both Mr. Cameron and M.

Grandidier agree in placing Fianáran on a meridian 30′ to the west of

the meridian of Antanánarivo. Having both taken and worked out the

series of observations myself, I concur with Mr. Cameron in his

conclusions: and would fix the longitude of Fianáran at 47° 11′ 30″ E.

of Greenwich, at a distance of seventy-five miles from the Indian Ocean.

The following is a brief list of the principal heights in this part of

the island:—

Feet.

Ambositra 4320

Angávo-ridge 5680

Nandihizana 4780

Long ridge, 4900

south

Ambohinamboárina 3600

Ikala valley 3920

River Matsiatra 3700

Fianárantsoa 4200

Ivatoavo 4660

Ambohimandroso 3260

Imahazony hill 3660

Iody, peak 6450

Tsimaitsohasoa 4650

Ifanjakana 4630

Moromania 4300

Ambodifiakárana 4620

Great moor 6200

The Betsileo Province is a continuation southward of the province of

Imerina: and embraces the entire width of the plateau lying along the

backbone of the island. On its northern boundary, the river Mania, the

province has a breadth of fifty miles: it narrows as it goes southward;

at Imahazony, on the line of lat. 22″ S., it has a breadth of only

thirty miles: and from the peak of Kinanga, we were in sight of the

three ridges which close the province in. The cultivable area within the

Province is but a limited portion of the whole: and that which is under

cultivation, owing to the scantiness of the population, is smaller

still. The province is full of mountains. It seems to be free of

volcanic influences: but it is crossed by long ridges of gneiss and

clay, strewn with boulders of enormous size. South of Fianárantsoa the

rocky ridges lie close together and the massing of the mountains is very

grand. Several of its ridges and detached mountains, like Ilalanza and

Ipáno, Iódy and Indraimbáki, Kipaséha and Ambóndrombé, I have already

named. The cultivated spots of any great size are the basin and valleys

of Ambositra; the amphitheatre of Nandihízana; the valleys of

Ambóhinamboárina and Ifánjakána; the basins of Ikála and Natao; the

valley of the Matsiatra and its offshoots; the valleys of Fianáran; and

the broad basin of Ambohimandroso. I have said that the province

contains five districts. Two of these, Ambositra and Nándihízana, lie

north of the chief river the Matsiatra; and three others, forming the

Betsileo proper, lie south of that river, viz.—the Isandra to the west:

Ilalangina near Fianárantsoa; and to the south, the Iárindráno,

abounding with fertilizing streams.

The province is almost entirely agricultural. Manufactures have made

little progress and are at present in a primitive stage. Fine herds of

cattle are abundant: one chief duty of the Hova dependents who live down

south is to watch over the herds, belonging to Imerina nobles, which are

fed on the unoccupied hills and wastes. But the chief staple of the

Betsileo is rice, and of this great harvests are reaped, which supply

the people with abundance of their favourite food. Give to the Malagasy

rice and gravy, gravy and rice, and they desire little more. The

ingenuity with which the Betsileo secure their crops is deserving of

high praise. I do not mean the unhallowed ingenuity with which, after

digging up their rice fields and flooding them, they turn a herd of

cattle in and drive them round and round, over and over, the soil to

mash and pound and tread it into soft mud, until the poor beasts are

utterly wearied and are splashed from head to foot with the filth, which

in due time the young rice plants will clothe with their tenderest

green. I mean the ingenuity with which they terrace the hills; tap the

streams at their highest sources, and lead them down step by step over

the terraced fields; or by long channels bring them from one basin to

another, making the water do duty many times over and securing abundant

fruitfulness. Very pleasant to the eye are these bright terraces when

the rice is young. Rich in rice are the valleys of Ambohimandroso and

the broad fields of Ikala; but nothing can exceed the skill and care

expended on the amphitheatre of Nandihízana, in which the terraces

descend step by step from a great height, and a lavish supply of water

from three streams, covers them year by year with a golden harvest.

It was in the weekly market of Nandihízana, that we saw as good an

illustration of the products of the Betsileo, as in any part of the

province. The chief articles exposed for sale were rice, manioc, Indian

corn; in meat, pork, beef and fowls; and a little honey, on the purchase

of which there was reserved to the buyer the right of clearing the

spoon. The manufactures were very simple: lambas made of rofia fibre; a

little coarse silk; coarse but strong iron spades; spade handles, timber

rafters, thick clumsy window shutters, with the hinge-pin projecting

above and below; wooden spoons; leaf plates; grass baskets and earthen

plates.

We were surprised and disappointed as to the population. We had always

heard that the Betsileo were a million and a half in number. As we

traversed the country and saw how painfully empty it is, we asked

ourselves again and again: Where are the people? In a few broad basins,

in a few rich valleys, are built a small number of towns, having from a

hundred to three hundred, houses. Only Fianáran has five thousand

people, including the Hova garrison. Enjoying complete security, the

peasantry scatter themselves over the open country, not building their

houses in large clusters or in villages containing from a hundred to

five hundred people; but in _válás_; with two or three houses each; and

in the absence of wood, which will not grow in the hard, foggy climate

and the keen east winds, the eye looks with pleasure on the multitude of

green rings, the cactus hedges of these little hamlets, which stud the

hill-sides, or the terraces above the levels where the rice-plant grows.

The government reckon in all the Betsileo and Tanála provinces fifty

thousand _hetra_ or holdings, great and small. This number will indicate

as many families; even allowing for changes since the arrangement was

made. And that calculation would give for the entire Betsileo a

population not exceeding three hundred thousand souls.

In their religious knowledge and character the Betsileo people generally

are behind their Hova friends in Imerina. The latter have been under

direct missionary instruction for many years: and it was from some of

the faithful members of the Hova Churches, living in Fianárantsoa on

duty, that the province first received the gospel. It has now fairly got

in among the Betsileo proper: the former royal family, many Betsileo

nobles and judges, are professed Christians: the majority of the

scholars examined by the Queen were Betsileo. The Directors had long

planned to send English missionaries to the country districts of the

province, as well as to Fianáran, and had sent out men: but until the

time of our visit only Fianáran had really been occupied. That town has

three churches: and here Mr. Shaw presides over the Normal School: and

Dr. Parker conducts the Medical Mission. It was arranged during our

stay, that we should occupy as central stations in the country, the

towns of Ambositra, Ifánjakána and Ambohimandroso: and before we left

Madagascar, English missionaries were occupying the first and last.

There will be for the future seven missionaries in the province, with

Normal and Theological Institutions; and a good staff of schools.

These important questions all arranged and our personal visits all paid,

we commenced our return to the Capital. The season was advancing and the

rains might be expected before many days. We left Fianáran on Wednesday,

Oct. 15th, taking the road through the centre of the province by which

we had come. We spent the Sunday at Ambositra travelled direct to the

Mania by Isándrandáhy: saw the strange hills of Kiririoka: climbed the

Pass of Ambódifiakárana; and traversed the great granite moor above it

to the foot of Vótovórona, one of the finest hills in South Imerina.

Keeping to the east road, we rested at Ambatomainty, celebrated for its

rats; avoided Be-goáika, still more renowned for its fleas: obtained a

fine view of Ankárat and its peaks from Ankazoláva; slept at the foot of

the fine boulder hill of Iháranandrían; and reached the Capital, tired

out and ill, on Friday, October 24th. We had had a rough journey: but it

was worth all the weariness five times repeated, to see what we had seen

and to learn what we had learned.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

CHAPTER IV.

RETURN TO THE CAPITAL.

Return of the Queen and Military Expeditions—Thunderstorm—Public entry

into the City and reception by the People—Uniforms and ceremonies on

the occasion—Reason and Course of the War—Our Interview with the

Queen—Address from the Directors—Rest in the City—Home at

Análakély—Visits to the Institutions in the City—Worship with the

Native Churches—Festival of the Fandróana—Visit to Country Missions

in Imerina—Importance of these Stations—Vonizongo—The District: its

spirited people: their high principle: many of them Martyrs—Position

of an English Missionary in these Districts—Ambohimanga—Journey

thither across country—A Royal City: its sturdy people: places

around it—Ambátovóry: its beauty—Ambatomena and its People—Our

return to Antanánarivo.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

CHAPTER IV.

RETURN TO THE CAPITAL.

WE had just reached the city, and were beginning to rest after our weary

journey, when we were quickly followed by the Queen’s Camp, and by the

two military expeditions which had been absent in the south-west. All

parties were anxious to be safely housed before the rainy season set in.

All had observed those premonitions of its approach, which in every

country the unscientific seem to read so strangely. And all were anxious

that full advantage should be taken of the earliest showers to dig and

sow the rice fields. The camp arrived not a moment too soon. The tents

had only just been pitched on the plain of Imáhamásina, on Tuesday,

October 28th, when at sunset a violent thunderstorm broke over the city,

with a perfect deluge of rain. The system of drainage in force in

Antanánarivo is truly scientific, and is at the same time severely

simple. The water seeks the lowest level, and is allowed to run just

where it likes. All the outlets in the centre of the city on its west

side converge on the Imáhamásina plain. The camp therefore not only

received its fair share of the deluge from above, but became the bed of

countless streams below. The entire place was speedily under water. Her

Majesty the Queen was safely provided for on the top of the

dining-table. But boxes, bedding, dresses, guns, cartridges, were

speedily afloat, and the plight of the new arrivals was pitiable in the

extreme.

On Thursday, October 30th, the Queen made her public entry into the

city: and the people gave her a most hearty welcome. The Queen is

exceedingly fond of her subjects, is truly interested in their welfare;

and her people yield her a simple but sincere affection in return. The

day was therefore a happy one on all sides: and the whole city shared in

the joy. The place of reception was Andohálo, a triangular space, on the

crest of the city-hill, a little north of the palace. Near the centre of

the green is the sacred stone, on which the sovereign stands. The sides

of the triangle slope upwards; are partially cut or worn into terraces;

and are bordered and overlooked by high houses, gardens and walls. These

places afford opportunity for a large number of spectators to dispose

themselves conveniently for any public gathering, such as a coronation

or the enactment of laws. They were therefore crowded to-day with people

of all ages, especially by women and children: it is said that sixty

thousand persons were present, and the coup d’œil was most effective.

White predominated in the dresses worn: but blue and scarlet, mauve and

purple, were present in abundance: and under a sky of brilliant blue,

with a sheen in the clear, sharp air, to which our own sombre country is

a stranger, the glancing of the light and the play of colour were truly

beautiful.

The inner boundaries of the assembly were, as usual in other countries,

kept by soldiers. The city guard were all in white and in native dress.

But the troops who had accompanied the Queen to the Betsileo were in

uniform. As at Fianárantsoa, there marched in not only the ordinary

soldiers with Brown Bess as their weapon, but men with the red coats of

the English infantry, with trousers having pink and white stripes, or

with red knickerbockers; and the young men in rifle green, armed with

the Snider rifle. The Armstrong gun, by many degrees the latest “infant”

of the artillery community, was brought up with care: and was duly

fired. The majority of the men are no doubt militia, and their weapons

are ancient and rarely used. Good powder is precious in Madagascar: and

the country people have immense faith in an empty gun. Nevertheless, one

feels a deep regret that the Malagasy government should keep so many

soldiers in arms: and should think so much of military matters.

To me the most interesting element in the military spectacle was this.

There stood before us, in groups, at the upper end of the assembly, some

five hundred men, wearing the uniforms of Field-Marshals, Generals,

Colonels and Sergeant-Majors; in coats of cloth or green velvet, and

even long-haired railway rug, covered with gold lace, with high braided

collars, and in many instances with epaulets. The larger proportion of

them were men in years, holding “honours” and still ranking as officers,

though practically “on the retired list.” Some of the uniforms must have

been imported in the days of Radáma, and some were of the pattern, both

of coat and facings, which we see in Hogarth’s sketches of military

life. These were “the ancient men” of the community, the cautious,

conservative class, of settled habits, who are afraid of change, and

whose influence acts as a powerful break upon those wiser men, who would

wish to promote real improvements in the social and public life of the

community. Their influence, we hear, has greatly diminished in recent

years: the strength and prosperity which are manifestly springing from

healthy changes have silenced their opposition; and it is quietly dying

out.

The hats on the ground were something wonderful. Such a collection of

specimens of the genuine British head-piece, it would be difficult to

gather in London itself, except amongst the stores of its Semitic

inhabitants. They were of all ages, shapes and sizes. They have been

kept with extraordinary care. Not one was black: they were all brown.

But not the rusty brown of London, with its dust underfoot and its

gloomy skies overhead. It was a rich, glossy brown, due to the sun and

the fresh breezes of Madagascar. There was the tall hat, an astonishing

production; the French hat; the narrow brim; the brim curled up; and the

brim sloping off into infinite space. And there were numerous, choice

specimens, the original owners of which it was impossible for the

initiated to mistake. As he looked with deep interest on those neat low

crowns and broad brims, one of the Friends present declared that they

could have come from no other place in the three kingdoms than an

Essex-Quarterly-Meeting. To me all this was most suggestive. Antiquated

hats, tall collars, costumes of days gone by, worn with satisfaction and

believed to be perfectly proper, brass bands and the roar of guns,

indicate ideas; and show the phases of opinion and of social life

through which this most interesting nation is passing.

At the upper end of the Andohálo plain had been erected a platform for

the Queen: and above it was the canopy which had been employed for her

coronation, and which bears the inscription: “Glory to God on high: on

earth peace: good will to men: may God be with us.” On the platform had

been placed her gilded chair and footstool: and a small table with a

crown. The English community stood in a group a little to the right and

front of this platform: the Norwegian Missionaries were close by: and

the members of the French Mission were a little beyond. Behind was a

band of judges and magistrates, in purple and brown lambas; with a small

knot of Arab merchants, who spoke Malagasy fluently. The guns were fired

all the morning, both on the lower plain and on the Andohálo hill: and

from nine o’clock the troops from the camp began to march steadily on to

the open green. About eleven, the scarlet umbrella appeared at the

western end of the little plain. Soon after the Queen alighted, stood

for a few moments on the Sacred Stone: and then walked, attended by the

Prime Minister, to the platform, whither the ladies of the Court had

preceded her. And when she appeared in front, amid the firing of cannon

and the music of the military bands, the people testified their delight

with shouts of joy. “May you live long, Ruler of Madagascar,” was heard

on every side.

The various ranks and classes of the people then in turn expressed their

congratulations and offered the “hásina,” a dollar, in token of their

loyalty to her rule. The governor of the city and his officers, the

judges and magistrates, heads of thousands and heads of hundreds, the

governor of Ambohimánga, the superintendent of powder works and others,

briefly reported the state of their departments: the Arabs offered their

homage: and then the European missions presented their congratulations.

The Queen made a brief speech in reply, thanking all parties for the

order observed during her absence, and for the good service they had

rendered. She expressed her thanks to God and her satisfaction, that she

had returned in health and safety: and briefly informed them of what she

had been doing among the Betsileo. The people responded with renewed

shouts: a general salute followed, both with music and guns; and when

the enthusiasm had begun to cool a little, the English present took it

up again, and gave a ringing English cheer, thrice repeated, which

rather startled the Malagasy, and with which the Queen was greatly

pleased. The Prime Minister next described the Queen’s journey and

proceedings in the Betsileo. He also announced that the Queen gave the

soldiers four months’ holiday after their long march: and she hoped that

they would diligently employ it in cultivating their fields, that so

they might have plenty of food. The assembly then broke up.

On the following Sunday the city churches were once more filled with

large congregations. All the members and preachers who had been absent

came to offer their thanksgivings, and to join in worship with their

families and friends. The military expeditions also returned to the

city. On Monday there was a crowded missionary prayer-meeting, and we

had the pleasure of hearing two of the principal officers describe what

they had done. The conduct of these expeditions was in many respects so

remarkable, that it would be a serious omission not to refer to them.

The reason why war had been declared against the Sákalávas was, that

they had refused reparation and apologies for plundering the cattle of

the Hovas. Among the Sákalávas are many fugitives and outlaws from the

Hova dominions; and it is to their evil conduct and bad advice that the

difference has been attributed. In one army, under the command of

Rainimáharávo, the chief secretary, were three thousand men. These

troops marched to the westward, to a point fifty miles south of the

Mania river, and three days’ march from the west coast of the island.

They suffered greatly from the heat: but they found their enemies, in a

town surrounded by water, and ornamented by magnificent tamarind trees.

They fought them for three days, and lost a large number of men: but the

enemy fled; the Hovas took possession: and then marched home again. In

the second expedition there were fifteen hundred men, under the charge

of Ravonináhitriniarivo: they marched on a line a hundred miles south of

their friends, and had no fighting. They had daily prayers in the camp:

and showed remarkable kindness to the tribes among whom they journeyed.

They treated the women and children with respect; they purchased their

supplies: and everywhere they left behind a name and reputation held in

honour. The Ibára chief said, “If this is the fruit of the praying, it

will be good for us to pray too.” Before their departure from the city,

a general contribution was made by the churches, to supply their friends

with quinine and other medicines, and with comforts needed in their new

circumstances. The people were deeply interested in all they heard of

their experiences. And when the Vonizongo levies returned home they

informed their friends: “We were never treated so before: our officers

were most kind: our wants were inquired into: and if we were sick, they

gave us medicine.” These were fine illustrations of the influence

exercised by Christian truth upon the Hova people.

A few days after her return the Queen kindly received my colleague and

myself, with several members of the mission, in special audience: that

we might place in her hands the Address which had been forwarded to her

by the Directors of the Society; and might offer to her and to the Prime

Minister valuable presents of which we were the bearers. Amongst these

was a beautiful casket from Mrs. Allon and the ladies of Union Chapel.

The Queen expressed herself as much gratified by the Directors’ words,

and said she would send her reply when we returned to England. In

reference to the younger missionaries who were presented with us, and

who had just arrived in the island, the Prime Minister said that they

were deeply interested to hear that two of them were about to settle in

the Betsileo province: and he appealed to the elder missionaries present

as to the protection and security which they had always received and in

which their labours were carried on. Our interview with them was a

gratifying one. There was a homeliness and a cordiality about their

looks and words, and a readiness to respond to our assurances of good

will, which showed that we are truly regarded as friends; and that they

are themselves truly anxious for the welfare of the people. Such was the

intercourse which my colleague and I continued to enjoy with them

throughout the period of our stay.

We paid formal visits at this time to other principal officers of the

government, men of high standing in the community. And as we came to see

and know more of them as days passed by, it was a matter of great

thankfulness to find that there are amongst them so many men of sincere,

simple piety and consistent life, whose families also entertain a strong

attachment to the gospel and to the churches of which they are members.

This is true of many younger men and women as well as of their elders.

At the same time, amongst some of the young men, things occur which

occasion deep grief not only to their English friends, but to their own

families.

What a treat it was at this time to enjoy the rest of a quiet life. For

four months we had been incessantly on the move: first in sea-life, in

fierce heat, rough waters and strong winds; then on land, up hill and

down hill in these Malagasy districts, journeying through the most

mountainous country I have ever seen. It was no wonder that we had

returned to the Capital, wearied and ill: and that it took many days to

recover from the exhaustion produced by our rough journeyings. But our

purpose had been accomplished; and we had already completed one valuable

portion of our appointed duties. The fresh air had not been without its

advantages. We had both come back as brown as gipsies; and my hands were

never so burned before by the sun and the air. What a treat it was to

see the sky of brilliant blue, and quietly to breathe the pure, fresh

breezes. The air was thin, but it was bright, clear and quickening, and

we revelled in it. The light and heat were far less powerful than in

India, and I enjoyed them thoroughly. The mornings in November were

exquisitely fine and fair. During the day the thermometer would rise to

72°-77°. And by a strange but convenient rule the thunderstorms would

come on after four or five o’clock in the afternoon. The lightning was

at times intense: it would run along the sky in silver veins; or shoot

to the earth like an arrow of molten gold, or throw a violet tint over

the red hills; while the thunder followed instantly with the roar of

artillery, and reverberated from hill to hill in long, rolling peals.

When we arrived the country was brown; or vast patches of it were

blackened by the grass fires that swept over them day after day. But now

the hills were clothed with grass fresh and young; and the rice growing

tall and strong in the flooded fields, hid the entire plain of Imerina

with a mantle of brilliant green.

For six weeks at this time I resided in Análakély, as the guest of Mr.

and Mrs. Thorne. And no one could have studied more than did my kind

hostess, to secure for me in my isolation, the comfort of a truly

pleasant home. Most gratefully do I cherish the memory of her

affectionate kindness: and deeply did I share the grief of many around

me, when in the month of April she was called away from her earnest

labours here to the higher service of the heavenly world.

The house we lived in is English built and of English pattern. It

contains six rooms of moderate size: laid out in two stories after the

following fashion:

[Illustration]

The roofs run from east to west over the two north rooms: and from north

to south over the dining room. And the house presents the following

appearance.

[Illustration:

MR. PEARSE’S HOUSE.

]

I give these particulars for two reasons. In erecting this house for the

Rev. J. Pearse, Mr. Pool not only provided a modest and comfortable

dwelling, thoroughly suitable for an English family; but in the form he

gave it he so exactly hit Malagasy taste that the people were charmed

with it. Wealthy natives began building others like it for themselves:

it became the model which they were anxious as far as might be to copy;

and scores of new houses like it may now be seen, not only in

Antanánarivo, but dotting the more distant parts of Imerina; to the

great comfort of the people and the improvement of the arrangements of

their homes. The large one-roomed houses of old Madagascar will, in due

time, disappear before these newer dwellings. Even the numerous Field

Marshals give them their approval, though they scarcely know how to use

them.

My colleague and I at this time enjoyed the opportunity of visiting the

principal institutions of the city maintained by the various missions.

We addressed the Theological students, for instance: visited the

Friends’ Boys’ School, and Miss Gilpin’s noble Girls’ School; our own

Girls’ Central School; the Normal School; and the Medical Mission

Hospital, to which Dr. Davidson had just returned after his visit to

Europe, and in which Dr. Mackie and he find so great a sphere of

usefulness. We were present also at the half-yearly meeting of the

Imerina Church Union; and were greatly struck with the interest which

the members took in the public affairs of the churches and the spread of

Christianity in the island.

It was a peculiar pleasure to me to renew my acquaintance with the

native churches of which the Society has now so many in various parts of

the world. I have worshipped with our converts in many languages and in

many lands. And everywhere I have admired the gentleness of that

Christian life which is being developed amongst the races of the East.

Our English Christian life is of a high order, full of energy, heroic,

tried in its principle, self-denying in its service, ever on the watch

against undesirable complications, dealing with the deepest problems of

religious, social and public life. Its loftiness of principle however

renders it a piety of a somewhat hard type, trammelled with the order,

the stiffness, the proprieties of many, many centuries. These Eastern

converts, made in our own time, are more free. They have more of feeling

in their nature, more sentiment, more of the affectionate and the

emotional in their life and worship. And what gentle Christians their

good women become. How these Malagasy people sing: and how they enjoy

their singing. An hour’s “service of song” is the ordinary prelude to

the Sunday morning’s worship. They have a fine sense of time: they

appreciate harmony in the highest degree: they always take four parts;

and when (as in the Capital) they are well taught, they sing with a

fervour, a sweetness and a plaintive tenderness, which often brought

tears into my eyes. It is very refreshing to see their simple piety,

their delight in worship, their strong attachment to the Word of God.

This is the good side of these churches, the encouraging element in the

Mission work around us. There is alas! too much which is defective, even

in Imerina. In the Betsileo the people are still more backward. There

the outlying congregations get almost no teaching: good preachers and

competent teachers are few: the singing is poor; the schools are poor;

readers are few. We are anxious to meet these things: to spread our

English Missionaries more widely among them: the Normal Schools and

Theological Classes will year by year increase the number of trained

instructors. There is real life on all sides. We have now to build it

up: to nourish, feed and strengthen it in these children in the faith,

until, under God’s blessing, they grow up into the full stature of men

in Christ Jesus.

Every work on Madagascar describes the festival of the _Fandróana_. This

year it began on the fourth of December and we had the pleasure of

seeing some of its observances. Many superstitious rites were once

connected with the festival: in these Christian days it has become

almost entirely a season of universal fellowship and social regard. Fat

bullocks occupy a conspicuous place in its arrangements: and noble

specimens are brought into the city. They are slaughtered on a special

day: and then everybody sends to everybody affectionate messages and

presents of beef. Every family receives abundance: and the poor get a

large supply. Our native friends of all ranks sent huge quantities to

the Mission families; and our servants and dependents, the Mission

Hospital and the Church poor, came in for a good share. Christianity has

purified the festival and lifted it into a higher region of human

sympathy and consideration: and long may the Fandróana last, a national

Christmas in reality though not in name.

As soon as it was over Mr. Pillans and I left the city on a visit to the

three Country Missions already established in Imerina. To these and

similar stations the Directors of the Society attach the highest

importance. They gladly attach to the City a small number of

missionaries for the instruction of the Theological and Normal Schools,

on which all stations in town and country depend; and for the guidance

of the City Churches, whose views and example become the model which the

Country Churches copy. Beyond this limited number, the Directors are

anxious that every missionary available shall have pastoral charge of a

large district at a distance from the Capital; and that these brethren,

residing in the midst of their people, shall be to them new centres of

Christian light and life and power. They hold in high honour the men and

women who are willing thus to isolate themselves for the sake of the

Master and of the weak yet willing children who need their help. Such

men become “Bishops” indeed, during the youth of these imperfect

churches: we have many such in our Society; we see similar brethren in

other Societies; and great is their usefulness.

We proceeded in the first instance to the district of VONIZONGO, which

lies north-west from Antananarivo, at a distance of thirty miles: and we

started on Friday, December 12th. We had with us thirty men, of whom

fifteen had been our companions in the Betsileo journey: their wages

were sixpence a-day and twopence for food, out of which one penny was

clear profit! Our road lay through the City Market, across the rice

fields and along the embankments of the Ikopa river for several miles.

To the north we had the long ridge which bears the important town of

Ambóhidratrimo: once one of the twelve cities of Imerina, and the head

of a little kingdom. It contains three hundred houses, and on the crest

of the hill, above a mass of giant boulders, towers a splendid Amóntana

tree, which is visible over all Imerina. At a later period we visited

the town, and saw Mr. Baron settled in his new quarters. Beyond this

town, we passed through a great deal of swamp, the remains of the

original marshes of Imerina, and still full of the papyrus reeds, which

the people find so useful for roofing. Thence we skirted Ambóhimanóa, a

noble hill on a broad base, one of the great landmarks of the province;

rested for a while at Soávina; crossed the ridge of Ambóhimirímo;

entered the broad valley of Vonizongo; and after traversing endless rice

fields, on paths six inches wide, at the end of eleven hours, reached

the Mission-house at Fiháonana, and received a warm welcome from Mr. and

Mrs. Matthews.

Vonizongo is a broad open valley, fifteen miles wide by twenty miles

long. It has the noble mountain of Lóhavóhitra for its eastern boundary:

on the west is a long low ridge of the usual red clay. West of this

again is a fine valley, which has for its western boundary the lofty,

curving ridge of Ambóhimánga: outside of this running north-west to the

sea is the river Ikopa. The centre of the province consists of the sandy

clay, deeply scored by the strong streams which flow from Lóhavóhitra:

along the waters everywhere the levels are cultivated with rice, and

small villages are numerous. The northern part of the district is a

lofty moor, which clings to the skirts of the Ambóhimánga ridge, and

over which the east winds blow keen and piercing. Fiháonana, the chief

town, contains only seventeen houses. But it is and has long been the

residence of the chief of the local clans: and there are large villages

at a short distance. The population are much scattered: and there are

four or five clusters of villages, with fields and churches and a goodly

number of inhabitants, within eight miles of Fiháonana; which at once

point out the form which Christian labour must take among them: and

there are other clusters about Fierénana and in North Vonizongo to be

dealt with in the same way.

The inhabitants of Vonizongo have always been a spirited and independent

people. Radáma made soldiers of them, and he found them brave, enduring

and self-reliant. They used to have a multitude of chiefs, each with a

long pedigree and a longer tail of dependents and clansmen. The power of

the chief over his people was as great and as summary in its dealings,

as that of the Highland chiefs of old days: and the clannish feeling is

still very strong. The intelligence and spirit of these tribes led them

to appreciate the teachings of the missionaries in the earliest days.

Several lads from the district attended their schools in Antanánarivo;

and both Mr. Johns and Mr. Griffiths visited them. Indeed the

missionaries and the people felt an unusual regard for one another. The

missionaries found their teaching appreciated. The story of the Bereans

was rehearsed once more. “These were more noble than those of

Thessalonica: in that they searched the Scriptures daily whether these

things were so: therefore many of them believed, and consorted with Paul

and Silas: also of the devout Greeks, and of the chief women not a few.”

Can we wonder at the experiences which followed? The mother of the

present chief of the clans, was the first convert: her eldest son was

burned as a martyr for the Gospel: her second son was sold as a slave:

two men from the first little church, in their Christian zeal, went to

preach to the Sákalávas: were arrested on their return by the frontier

garrison; and were speared in the market-place for their Christianity.

One noble woman, Rabódománga, boldly gave testimony to her faith before

the judges: “I do not pray to wood and stone and to the mountains: unto

God alone do I pray.” Four of the sisters of this brave woman were

martyred. Of the fourteen martyrs who were thrown over the precipices of

Ampamarinana, seven were from Vonizongo.

Of Razáka, the pastor of Fiháonana, now growing grey with years, Mr.

Matthews spoke to us thus: “He is one of the most remarkable men I ever

met. To this man we owe not only the number, but the satisfactory state

of the churches in a large part of Vonizongo. He was sent to the coast

by Radáma II., while prince, before the death of his mother, in order to

see what the French missionaries were doing on the west coast. He was

captured by the Sakalavas, was sold to the French, and was taken to

Bourbon. There they tried hard to make a priest of him, but could not;

he knew his Bible too well. When they found that they could make nothing

of him, and that he was likely to turn some of their people from them,

by teaching the Gospel, they sent him back to Madagascar. He returned,

after some time, to his own village. Since the death of the old Queen,

in 1861, he has been not only the pastor of the mother church at

Fiháonana, but really the head of the whole district, and the man to

whom all the churches look as to their father and their guide. Although

only a clansman, and neither a chief nor a freeman, such is the respect

felt for the man, that he has more influence in the district than twenty

chiefs.”

It was a great pleasure to Mr. Pillans and myself to see this good man:

to talk with him of the hard days of trial; and to hear from his own

lips the story of the sufferings endured. He told us of the meetings

which the fugitive Christians held for worship and mutual help. They

used to come long distances to such meetings; tracts were lent from one

to the other, as a tract could often be carried, and hidden away under

their garments, when a Bible or Testament could not. Parts of the New

Testament were also lent about, even to single leaves; and leaves of the

hymn book and Pilgrim’s Progress. He said that they often used to long

for a rainy night, in order that they might be able to sing. He showed

us the underground passage beneath the floor of his house, by which,

when the soldiers came to search, the inmates and visitors could escape.

He accompanied us to a pile of immense rocks, and showed us the little

cave beneath the big boulder, three feet high, into which they used to

creep for their meetings: and the hollow where their Bible was hid away.

He brought vividly before us the sufferings and the persecution which

his heroic brethren and himself had endured: and in him we realized

something of the power of that faith by which all had been sustained.

Few finer bodies of Christians have been won to Christ by modern

missions than these faithful men and women in Vonizongo.

[Illustration:

MARTYRS’ CAVE.

]

We remained ten days with Mr. Matthews, every day finding some new

object of interest. We accompanied him to the principal localities of

the district and made a careful survey of the whole: we ascended

Lóhavóhitra and had a fine prospect of the country to the west. We were

much struck with the respectability of the people: with their bright,

intelligent looks: with the self-respect manifest in the demeanour of

the Christian women; and with their hearty enjoyment of the religious

services at which we were present. Two of the most pleasant days we

spent in the island were occupied in visiting the northern groups of

churches at Ambóhizánakólona and Sambáina. We were glad to take the

pastors by the hand, especially Rainisóa, the pastor at Sambaina, the

son and nephew of faithful martyrs, himself a devoted instructor and

guide of the people committed to his care. We could not doubt the

genuineness and the thoroughness of Christ’s work in Madagascar, when we

visited churches like these.

We were clear also on the important point of the true position to be

held by the general body of English missionaries in Madagascar. All who

do not hold staff appointments in the Theological and Normal Schools,

but have the care of churches, should be placed in charge of districts

also. Each district should have its centre, with three or four

sub-centres. Instruction should be given specially and on system to the

preachers and pastors of the entire district: on system also to the

people generally by Bible classes maintained at the sub-centres: and to

the children in schools. An English missionary in Madagascar can rarely

visit the scattered congregations of his district; but by teaching and

advising all his preachers, and by systematically working on his

principal people at its centre and sub-centres, in the course of a few

years he will, under God’s blessing, contribute much to the

enlightenment of the whole. This form of labour is thoroughly approved

by the missionaries generally, and is carried out to a greater or less

degree in all the country districts.

We left Fiháonana on December 23d after a most pleasant visit, with a

view to spend Christmas with Mr. and Mrs. Sibree at Ambóhimánga, which

lies due east from Vonizongo. We passed under the west face of

Lohavóhitra, descending into deep gullies and crossing several streams;

came to the river Anjomóka, with which they unite: and which about

twelve miles farther to the west and south falls into the Ikopa. We were

now on the northern border of Imerina and were approaching the great

mountain mass of Andringitra, with its sacred, oracular caves. We passed

beneath the western buttresses of Miakótsy; and then under Andringitra

itself. It is a noble mountain, without any prominent peak, but

presenting an enormous mass with a high curved ridge, the most

conspicuous object in North Imerina. To the south are the long green

ridges of Ambóhipiháinana and Ambohipoloálina. Passing these we entered

a long and narrow valley under the ridge of Ambóatány, and early in the

afternoon arrived at Ambóhimánga.

The town of AMBOHIMANGA stands on the long gneiss ridge, which, under

the roots of Andringitra, forms the northern boundary of the Imerina

plain. The ridge has been broken through at various points; and the hill

of Ambohimanga is isolated from those parts of the ridge which lie east

and west of it. It is beautifully wooded on all sides. On the north side

the houses appear among the trees in three large clusters; and numerous

villages are scattered about the clay roots and slopes of the hill. On

the south the face of the hill is precipitous: and the gneiss rock shows

itself in grey masses, among the woods, in which the white, thin stems

of the Amiana trees, gigantic nettles, are specially abundant.

Ambohimanga is a royal city; it holds high rank in the kingdom; and

indeed is always associated with Antananárivo in public proclamations.

It was one of the twelve great cities of former days; and held almost

the highest position among them. It is a favourite royal residence. The

great defender of the idols, Queen Ránaválona, is buried here; and it is

probably far more from that fact, and from her known enmity to

Europeans, supposed to subsist still, that they are not admitted into

the city. The Malagasy hold far more literally than we do the idea that

if English missionaries were allowed to preach on the top of the

Ambohimanga hill, the old Queen would “turn in her grave!” The present

Queen twice visited Ambohimanga during our stay in the island: she was

there at Christmas, when we reached the place: and every day she would

sit out on the level rock at the summit of the hill, while the scarlet

umbrella indicated to her people that their sovereign was “eating the

air.” Ambohimanga contains probably five thousand people. The ruling

tribe of the place are termed _Tsi-máha-fótsy_, “those who do not grow

white” with fear; “the bold and true, in bonnet blue, who fear and

falsehood never knew.” They are bold and brave, but they are rough in

manners and rude in speech. They rather pride themselves upon giving to

every one, be it their sovereign or their missionary, a bit of their

mind. And they have yet to learn that rudeness is no ornament to

bravery, whether in Gaul, Goth or Northman; and that it is possible to

wear a velvet glove over an iron hand.

There are three Christian Churches in Ambohimanga: and excellent schools

both for boys and girls, conducted by Mr. and Mrs. Sibree. There are

numerous other churches in populous villages in the immediate

neighbourhood: churches out in the Imérina plain among the rice fields,

and churches all along the roots of Andringtra: churches in a great

valley to the northward, enclosed by noble granite hills, the Anátivólo;

and a cluster of churches five miles to the eastward on the edge of the

barren moors. As in the case of Vónizóngo, so with Ambohimanga and its

district, we felt what a noble sphere of effort it constitutes: and

admired the energy and devotion with which our friends in these country

districts have accepted their isolated position for the usefulness which

it secures. We were debarred from the pleasure of worshipping with the

city congregations; because they assembled around the Queen, at the top

of the hill and within the city gates, which no European, English or

French may pass. But we visited one or two of the district churches a

short distance away; we saw several of the Ambohimanga Christians, and

among them the sturdy pastor Rainikoto, whose father was priest of the

great idol, who guarded this portion of the country.

We spent some delightful days with our kind host and hostess and with

two other mission families, which were rusticating at Ambohimanga during

the Christmas holidays. We scoured the country, looking in upon the

“lions,” and finding among them many objects of interest. The idol

village of Amboatány we found embowered in trees, the Aviávy fig, the

Amóntana with its broad glossy leaves, and the gigantic nettle-tree, the

Amiana. Near it are the enormous boulders of Mánga-be. North of

Ambohimanga are three beautiful hills, richly clothed with green, with

flourishing villages at their feet. Four miles to the east on an

isolated hill is the old royal city of Ambóhidrabíby; it is named from

its king Rá-bíby, who is said to have discovered the excellence of beef,

just as Charles Lamb’s Chinese friends found out the delicate flavour of

roast-pig. He was a noted hunter too, and among the swamps filled with

huge reeds and rushes, like Macaulay’s Etruscan hero, he brought to bay

and slew the great wild boar, which was the terror of the country:—

“The great wild boar, which had his den,

Among the reeds of Cosa’s fen:

And wasted fields and slaughtered men

Along Albinia’s shore.”

From this exploit he was named Ralámbo. His tomb stands outside the old

house where he lived and is a simple structure. His lineal descendant,

the head of the tribe here, still occupies the house; and being of a

practical turn of mind ornaments his little garden with beans, cabbages

and onions, as well as dahlias and roses.

A mile from this antiquated town, we came upon a pretty chapel in

Ambodi-fáhitra, built with good taste in Gothic style and having

coloured glass windows. We were not expected: and were pleased to find a

good school of boys and girls busily at work. The pastor of this church

is a younger brother of one of the martyrs, Andriamán-anténa, who lived

close by. When I took his hand, said I was glad to see him, and told him

how his brother was honoured in England, he was profoundly astonished;

and said how could you know anything about me and him? The martyr’s

widow still lives and is one of the most hospitable ladies in all

Imérina. On two occasions we visited her house and were most comfortably

provided for.

On Monday, December 29th, we quitted this pleasant corner of Imerina,

for another mission station, Ambátovóry, which lies to the east of the

capital. As before we enjoyed the advantage of crossing the country by

an unusual route and of seeing a great deal that was new. The valley of

the Mámba we found full of villages and churches. Passing through the

ridge which bounds it, we came opposite a remarkable village,

Ambátomanóina, a mass of boulders of enormous size, but embowered in

trees. Thence we passed by the town of Soávina, the chief town of the

district, close to which the new mission-house has been built; and

winding in and out among the hills, soon reached the hospitable abode of

Mr. and Mrs. Peake, which had received us on our first arrival in

Imerina.

Ambátovóry is a place of peculiar beauty, and is in many ways fitted to

be the sanatorium of the Imerina Mission. It is only ten miles from the

capital. Bracing air, pure water, noble hills, rich cultivated valleys,

patches of forest, beds of ferns, and broad moors, contribute to its

beauty. Close to it on the east is the noble mountain of Angávokély; and

on the south a fine conical hill, Ambóhitsilého, covered with boulders,

and looking like an enormous pine-apple. The ground is high, 4600 feet

above the sea; potatoes grow readily, and the soil should produce wheat

and English grain and fruit. The Cape laburnum, with its rich clusters,

was in full flower: the little thorny Euphorbia brightened the hedges

with scarlet or yellow flowers; and all over the hills the wild flowers

were abundant.

In their religious knowledge the people of Mr. Peake’s district are far

more backward than their neighbours of the Imerina plain. And he will

have hard work to get them on. The population immediately around the

station amounts to about 12,000: but they are conveniently distributed

and three excellent sub-centres for regular visitation, can be formed at

no great distance.

There is one bright exception to this state of things. Among the new

arrangements of the mission, was the transfer of a group of churches

from the care of Mr. Wills and his people to that of Mr. Peake. And two

months after our present visit to Ambátovóry, in March 1874, we went to

the station again to be present on the occasion. Ten miles to the

northward, out on the great moors, is a noble ricevalley, abundantly

supplied with water. Around this valley are thickly clustered several

fine villages: Ambátoména, Antsámpandráno, and Ambóhitsehéno are the

chief: there are many others, and they contain in all a population of

more than five thousand souls. Several fountains burst from the higher

parts of the moor, and soon run into streams and rivers, all of which

are head waters of the Betsiboka. Two of these fine streams run together

at the foot of a hill, on which stands a fine village with a church. The

hill and village are called Antsámpandráno, “the meeting of the waters.”

From this point the river is called the Mánanára. A mile to the north,

it flows into a broad level plain, which forms the finest rice plain we

saw in the province except the central portion of Imerina itself. We

found the people a most amiable, spirited and intelligent people. We

visited them in three congregations. Each church was crammed; and in

every case there were two hundred and more listeners outside. In the

three churches we had not less than three thousand people, including

many children. They took a deep interest in the change of

superintendence: and heartily approved of it, promising to give Mr.

Peake a warm welcome among them. They received us most kindly and

treated us royally. At each place they wanted us to dine after the

service. We staved off their well meant hospitality the best way we

could. But our bearers were less scrupulous. They confessed to having

had two dinners within an hour and a half: and some of them tried a

third shortly after. We found that these good people were a colony from

Ilafy. And that they have themselves sent off a swarm, to people another

valley of the Mánanára, forty miles to the north; where they formed the

village of Anjozórobé and its neighbours.

Later on and after the visit to Ambátoména in March, we left Ambátovóry

to retrace our steps along the Tamatave road and pay a visit to Angávo.

After living long among the bare hills of Imerina, we were greatly

struck with the richness and profusion of the Angávo forest and with the

loveliness of the hills. We saw nothing to equal it in all Madagascar.

Thence we passed to Andrángalóaka, also on the borders of the forest,

and spent three pleasant days with Dr. Davidson. We saw also Mántasóa,

the great factory of former days, in which the chief workshops were

built by the Christian martyrs, who had been enslaved. We visited also

the iron district, and examined the claims of three towns in that

direction to be the residence of an English Missionary. Of these

Ambátomanga, the usual stopping place of visitors to the capital in

former times, was one. Hills, rocks and valleys, running streams, rice

fields, villages, succeeded one another in rich variety and ceaseless

numbers. In these country visits we added hourly to our knowledge of

this strange but interesting land, and understood more clearly the way

in which its people have been led and trained for their present

attainments and for the part which they have yet to play in the world’s

history. And we looked with deep interest upon the old idol village of

Ambóhimánambóla, with its great cactus hedges and inhospitable dogs; and

saw the spot, where in September 1869 the idol had been brought from his

house and burned before all eyes. “Behold how great a matter a little

fire kindleth.”

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CHAPTER V.

HOW IT STRIKES A STRANGER.

Settling in the Capital—My Madagascar Home—Prospect over Imerina—Family

Life and Housekeeping—Our Servants, the Garden—Weather,

Thunderstorms—Beauty of Imerina—The great City Market: Food, Dress

and Manufactures Sold—Low Prices—Money—Settlements of the European

Families—Roads—Our Dress—The Sun—The Palace—Social Life in the

Capital—Lack of External Stimulus—Sources from which it may be

supplied—Memorial Church at Faravohitra—The Martyrs who suffered

there—Conference of Missionaries held in January—Topics

discussed—Resolutions and Arrangements—Concluding Meeting—Important

Re-arrangements resulting from it—Love of the Bible among the

People—The Churches in the City—Opening of the Memorial Church at

Ampamarinana.

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CHAPTER V.

HOW IT STRIKES A STRANGER.

THE rainy season had fully set in and we prepared to settle down in the

Capital for three or four months. Busy times were before us. We had to

hold important consultations with the missionary brethren respecting the

arrangements of the mission: we had correspondence to maintain with

home: and there was much to accomplish in working out our numerous

observations and framing maps of the Imerina and Betsileo Provinces. Our

first work was to provide a suitable home for this period of our stay.

Mr. and Mrs. Pillans found a neat little house on the east side of the

City-hill: and with the help of an excellent native woman and her

husband, intelligent, kind-hearted and upright people, they managed

their novel housekeeping exceedingly well. Mr. and Mrs. Grainge kindly

received me into their house; and until I finally left the city they

provided so kindly and considerately for all my wants, that it became to

me a very pleasant home.

Our house was situated at the end of the Faravóhitra hill; on a long

clay spur projecting to the north and east, which spread out into a

level terrace, with steep banks on its north and west sides. The house

faces the west, and has opposite a noble mass of granite rock, above

which stands conspicuous the Faravohitra Memorial Church. From the north

side of the terrace we had a beautiful view over the Imerina plains. The

wooded hill of Ambóhimánga; the solid arched ridges of Andringitra, the

lofty peaks of Lóhavóhitra, and the broad massive hill of Ambóhimonóa,

formed the outer border of the landscape. Naméhana was in the centre of

the picture on its round hill; on the right was Iláfy with its green

woods: while close before us were the large villages of Ankádifotsy and

Manjákaráy, with their dark red soil, their neat new chapels, their

numerous well-built houses and long walls.

Our house was limited in size, though it looked large; having but four

rooms round a large central hall. It was built of sun-dried brick; had

two gables on its west front; and a verandah all round. A weak point in

the house was, that though boarded, it was on a level with the ground.

The house was not native, but of English pattern, and would pass very

well for an Indian bungalow. My own room was soon put in order: and with

its camp bed and washing-stand, a solid table, a deep wardrobe, my

travelling-trunks, and its little fire-place, it was a cosy, comfortable

den. The broad shelves of the wardrobe contained my books, clothes and

instruments: and kept my papers, maps and letters within easy reach. On

the top were ranged a camera, my tool-box, a small chest of tea, and a

supply of English stores. Here I passed many months of pleasant toil,

editing the Conference Papers, conducting correspondence, drawing maps;

and holding friendly consultations with numerous visitors, who came to

talk over serious matters, or perhaps have a quiet chat over

four-o’clock tea.

As in all Christian missions abroad, our family life was very simple.

The meals were breakfast, dinner and tea: the English supper, as in

other tropical countries, being omitted. Beef was the chief meat

available; and occasionally good mutton, with the long, fat tail.

Turkeys, ducks and fowls we could buy in abundance. The potatoes were

moderately good; stewed peaches are a dish for a king; and peas are

becoming common: but the country has few green vegetables like those of

England. The Malagasy have no cakes and no bread. These are made in the

mission families from flour imported either from England or the Cape.

Good coffee is being grown on the island: but our tea and sugar, sauces,

oils and pickles, were all imported. Good jam is made from the Cape

gooseberry, well known in India, and also from the mango: but all the

usual English jams were imported from home. Of eggs and milk we could

obtain a good supply: and butter was made in the house; on the primitive

system of shaking the milk in a bottle. The stock of rice in the markets

is large: but we could not get for an English table the many finer kinds

which are so abundant in India.