CHAPTER XI

JOHN DAVIS

A substantial yeoman in the days of the great Queen possessed a small

freehold called Sandridge on the banks of the Dart, in the parish of

Stoke Gabriel. This yeoman had two sons, John Davis the future Arctic

navigator, and his brother Edward, the former born in 1550. The Dart,

in this part of its course, widens out, and has all the appearance of

a lake surrounded by wooded hills, the leafy boughs touching the water

at high tide. The view is closed in by the richly wooded heights of

Greenway Court, which was the home of Humphrey and Adrian Gilbert and

their half brother Walter Raleigh. All these boys were fast friends.

The Gilbert and Davis boys often met, and made excursions together.

Young Davis also had other friends. A mile beyond the neighbouring

village of Dittisham was the manor house of Bozomzele, where dwelt Sir

John Fulford, his wife, Lady Dorothy, daughter of the Earl of Bath, and

several children about the same age as young Davis. Here he was always

welcome, and one of his Bozomzele playfellows, Faith Fulford, later

became his wife.

John Davis was not in the same social position as his life-long friends

Adrian Gilbert and Walter Raleigh or the Fulfords, but he certainly

received a classical education, probably at Totnes grammar school. He

went to sea at an early age and was away from home for about 14 years.

He returned, at the age of 28, an experienced seaman, skilled in the

scientific branch of his profession, and recognised as a captain of

known valour and conduct, in whom merchants were willing to repose

trust and confidence. He had succeeded to the property at Sandridge,

and on September 29th, 1582, he married Faith Fulford.

Young Davis, master of his friend Sir Humphrey Gilbert’s _Discourse on

a North-west Passage to Cathay_, was deeply interested in an enterprise

which would so greatly benefit his country, and was filled with a

desire to undertake the leading of such an expedition. His friend

Adrian Gilbert--at this time a neighbour, having rented the manor house

of Stoke Gabriel--was equally enthusiastic. The two friends rode up to

London together, and Gilbert introduced Davis to Dr Dee, the famous

alchemist and mathematician at Mortlake, and to the great statesman Sir

Francis Walsingham. The four experts examined all available sources

of information, and consulted together. The great difficulty was to

ascertain the position of Sir Martin Frobisher’s discoveries, which

could not be reconciled with the Zeno map. Still, the main object of

finding a passage was most important, and a successful appeal was made

to the merchants of London. Sir Walter Raleigh entered into the plans

of the friend of his boyhood with characteristic ardour, and he induced

the Queen to grant a charter for the discovery to John Davis, Adrian

Gilbert, and himself. Raleigh recommended his associates to the good

offices of Master William Sanderson, a wealthy merchant and one of the

most enlightened adventurers of his time, who resolved to give liberal

support to the expedition. He superintended the preparations, and his

relative, John Janes, went out as supercargo. In the spring of 1585

Davis was busily engaged in fitting out at Dartmouth. He had two small

vessels, the _Sunshine_ of London of 50 tons, and the _Moonshine_,

built at Dartmouth, of only 35 tons. Davis and Janes were in the

_Sunshine_ with the master, William Eston, a master’s mate, gunner,

boatswain, carpenter, eleven seamen, four musicians to please the

natives, and a boy. The _Moonshine_ was commanded by William Bruton,

with John Ellis as master.

On the 7th June, 1585, the two ships left Dartmouth harbour. With

Eston the master, Davis made a careful survey of the provisions and a

calculation of the time they would last. They consisted of salt meat

and cod, biscuit and peas, butter and cheese, with beer. The clothing

was entirely woollen. As contrary winds detained the ships for several

days at the Scilly Islands, Davis employed his time in visiting every

island of the group, plotting and describing every isle and rock, and

making a regular survey for the use of navigators.

A fair wind at last sprang up and took them northward over the

Atlantic, where one or two porpoises were harpooned, and a number of

whales seen. It was on the 20th July, 1588, that Greenland, the country

of the old Norse colony, was sighted, and Davis named it the “Land

of Desolation”: for “the irksome noise of the ice and the loathsome

view of the shore bred strange conceits among us.” This was on the

east side. Davis considered that he was well to the westward of the

Frieslanda of Zeno, and in the channel between Labrador and Greenland

as shown on Mercator’s map, so, after rounding the southern point, he

steered north and on the 29th sighted land in 64° 15′ N. The wind being

strong from the north he anchored in a fjord, which was named Gilbert

Sound. It is the Godthaab of the Danes[49].

On the Greenland coast the numerous small granite islands scattered in

great numbers at the entrances of the deep fjords, are well clothed

with moss, grasses, and wild flowers in the summer, and embosomed in

a deep blue sea on which bergs and pack-ice float here and there, and

become distorted on the horizon by refraction. Nowhere does nature

present a more lovely scene.

Davis, with Janes and Eston, landed on a small island and had his first

interview with the Eskimos. He was followed by the captain of the

_Moonshine_ with the four musicians, and a good understanding was soon

established. Next day many kayaks were darting round the ships, and

there was perfect confidence. Five kayaks and some native clothing were

purchased. On the 1st of August Gilbert Sound was left and, shaping a

W.N.W. course, the opposite shore was sighted in 66° 40′ N., anchorage

being found in a bay which Davis called after his old school--Totnes

Road. He then discovered and examined the entrance to Cumberland Gulf.

He was very observant of the fauna and flora, the bears, five of

which were killed, the seals, and the numerous birds, and he described

_Ranunculus glacialis_ and _Papaver alpinum_. The men had complained of

the insufficiency of the food in such a climate, and a new dietary was

framed. Every mess of five men was to receive 4 lb. of biscuit daily,

12 quarts of beer, 6 stock-fish, and an extra gill of peas on salt meat

days.

From various indications, Davis was inclined to believe that Cumberland

Gulf was a strait, but a northwesterly gale had driven the ships from

the land, and on August 26th he determined to begin the homeward

voyage. He considered that his discoveries had materially increased

the amount of knowledge which must be collected before the passage was

likely to be found.

Davis was warmly welcomed by his steadfast friend Adrian Gilbert, and

he addressed a hopeful letter to Sir Francis Walsingham. He then went

up to London, and gave a personal account to the Secretary of State and

to Master Sanderson.

For the second expedition, which was immediately decided upon, the

merchants of Devonshire subscribed liberally. The little fleet was

composed of four ships, the _Mermaid_ of 120 tons, the _Sunshine_,

the _Moonshine_, and the _North Star_, a pinnace of 10 tons. Davis

himself was in the _Mermaid_ with his friend Janes, and Henry Morgan,

a servant of Master Sanderson, joined the expedition as purser.

Davis had resolved to divide his fleet. The _Sunshine_ under Captain

Pope, with the pinnace, was to seek for a passage on the east side

of Greenland as far as 80° N., and they parted company on the 7th of

June. The _Mermaid_ and _Moonshine_ sighted the southern extremity

of Greenland on the 15th, but Davis was unable to land owing to the

pack-ice extending for several leagues off the shore. He therefore gave

it the name of Cape Farewell, and once more entered the strait which

will bear his name for all time. Encountering very severe weather it

was not until the 29th that anchorage was found near Gilbert Sound,

where the Eskimos received their old friends with joyous welcome. Davis

put together a small pinnace which had been brought out in pieces, and

explored some of the fjords and inlets, also making long excursions

inland to observe the character and products of Greenland. Athletic

sports and football matches were then organised. In long jumping the

English beat the natives, but in wrestling matches the strangers found

their match. A vocabulary was collected of the Eskimo language, and

Davis wrote a very graphic account of these interesting people.

[Illustration: The Voyages of John Davis.]

The season was very unfavourable, there was much heavy pack, the ships

were nearly beset after leaving Gilbert Sound, and the crews became

despondent. Davis therefore made for the land again and reached it

in 66° 30′ N., at a place now known as Old Sukkertoppen. Here it was

resolved that the _Mermaid_ should return home, while Davis in the

_Moonshine_ continued the work of discovery with volunteers. On the

15th of August he crossed the strait, encountering much foul weather,

in spite of which the gallant explorer surveyed the west coast of Davis

Strait from the 67th to the 57th parallel. He found such enormous

quantities of birds breeding on the cliffs that he was led to suppose

that there must be a similar abundance of fish in the sea. He therefore

hove the ship to, and in a short time the men caught a hundred cod.

“The hook was no sooner over the side than presently a fish was

taken.” After examining the coast of Labrador, and the north coast

of Newfoundland, where there was a serious encounter with the Micmac

Indians, Davis shaped his course for England on the 11th September,

finally arriving at Dartmouth in October, 1586. Meanwhile the

_Sunshine_ and pinnace had reached Iceland, whence there was an attempt

to approach the east coast of Greenland, but the ice was too closely

packed, and Captain Pope sailed round Cape Farewell to Gilbert Sound,

returning to England on the 6th October. The account of this voyage was

written by Henry Morgan.

Davis had lost faith in Cumberland Gulf as a strait, but he had

discovered another great opening to the south which he thought might

be one, not knowing that Frobisher had already discovered and sailed

up it for six days. He also had good grounds for the belief that

these tentative expeditions could be made to pay their expenses by

bringing home cargoes of fish. He therefore resolved to continue the

enterprise although the west country merchants had lost heart. For a

short time he enjoyed the pleasures of home at Sandridge, discussing

the prospects with his neighbour and life-long friend Adrian Gilbert.

The two friends rode up to London together, were encouraged by the Lord

Treasurer and Sir Francis Walsingham, and obtained the necessary funds

from Master Sanderson and other patriotic merchants. The new Arctic

fleet consisted of the _Elizabeth_ of Dartmouth, the _Sunshine_, the

_Ellen_, a clinker-built pinnace, and another small pinnace taken out

in pieces. The _Moonshine_ was worn out. Davis had resolved to try and

make the expedition pay its expenses by fishing. He was a most popular

commander, and men who had once served with him always wanted to serve

again. John Janes, the nephew of Master Sanderson, again accompanied

him, and he appointed a native of his own parish of Stoke Gabriel,

named John Churchward, as pilot of the _Ellen_.

At midnight on the 19th May the three little vessels _Sunshine_,

_Elizabeth_, and _Ellen_ sailed out of Dartmouth harbour before a fresh

gale from the north-east. The _Sunshine_ sprang a leak which could

only be kept under by 500 strokes of the pump during each watch, and

the _Ellen_ was such a bad sailer that she had to be towed. On the 16th

June, in spite of these drawbacks, the three vessels came to anchor in

Gilbert Sound. Davis was so anxious that the expedition should pay its

expenses that he determined to despatch both the _Sunshine_ and the

_Elizabeth_ to the fishery, and to continue his voyage of discovery

in the little pinnace _Ellen_ of barely 20 tons. Then John Churchward

reported that the _Ellen_ had sprung a leak and that it required 300

strokes of the pump every watch to keep her clear of water. In this

wretched little craft the explorers were to hazard their lives. All

felt the crisis to be serious. Some hesitated. John Davis considered

the matter, and his decision was worthy of him. He told his people that

it would be better to end their lives with credit than to return with

infamy and disgrace. The crew accepted his words as final and resolved

to live and die together.

At midnight therefore on the 21st June all sailed from Gilbert Sound,

the two barks for the fishing voyage, and Davis in the pinnace to

continue the work of discovery. Proceeding northward along the west

coast of Greenland, to which he gave the name of the London Coast,

Davis took an observation on the 30th which showed the pinnace to be in

72° 12′ N. A lofty perpendicular cliff, in reality one of several small

islands off the coast, was named after the friend and chief promoter of

the expedition “Sanderson his Hope,” for here it was that there seemed

to be the chiefest hope of a passage. Sanderson his Hope rises to the

height of 850 feet above the sea, perpendicular save for narrow ledges

on which myriads of looms and kittiwakes rear their young.

Davis was now obliged to alter course to the west owing to a strong

northerly wind, and ran for 40 leagues in that direction without

sighting land. Throughout the voyage he paid close attention to the

phenomena of terrestrial magnetism, and did his best to increase the

data for studying the properties of the magnet during all his voyages.

The observations for variation at London have been continuous since

1580, and Davis had studied the work of another Arctic navigator,

William Burrough, whose _Discourse of the Compass and Magnetic Needle_

appeared in 1581, followed in 1585 by Robert Norman’s _New Attractive_.

While engaged in these observations, Davis found the progress of the

little _Ellen_ suddenly checked by broad floes stretching across

her path. This was the famous “middle pack” drifting towards the

Atlantic, sometimes extending for 200 miles, with an average thickness

of eight feet. A lane of water was followed for some distance but it

proved deceptive, and the _Ellen_ was lucky in being able to escape

from it without being beset. Davis then coasted along the southern

edge of the pack and succeeded in reaching the western side of the

Strait. By midnight of the 19th July the _Ellen_ was off the entrance

of Cumberland Gulf. Sailing along the coast they sighted Frobisher

Strait and “Meta Incognita” without knowing that they were Frobisher’s

discoveries, for the map-makers had placed them on the other side,

in Greenland. The _Ellen_ also crossed the entrance of the great

strait which Frobisher had discovered, and Davis named the point on

the south side Cape Chidley, after an old friend in Devonshire. The

confused current which Frobisher likened to the waterfall then existent

at London Bridge, appears to have been called by Davis “the furious

overfall” as shown on the Molyneux globe and the “new map” of 1599.

Davis in his log and Janes in his narrative describe it as “a mighty

overfall, with divers circular motions like whirlpools in such sort as

forcible streams pass through the arches of bridges.” The rendezvous

of the fishing vessels was in 54° N. on the coast of Labrador, where

the _Ellen_ waited until the 15th August, and then shaped a course for

England, arriving at Dartmouth on the 15th September, 1587. The logs

of the _Sunshine_ and _Elizabeth_ have not been preserved, but we may

hope that their cargoes remunerated Master Sanderson and the other

subscribers, and paid the expenses of the expedition[50].

The discoveries of Davis were most important. He converted the Arctic

regions from a confused myth into a defined area. He not only described

and mapped the extensive tracts explored by himself, but he clearly

pointed out the work cut out for his successors. He lighted Hudson into

his strait, as Luke Fox truly said. He lighted Baffin into his bay. He

lighted Hans Egede to the scene of his Greenland labours. He did more.

His true-hearted devotion to the cause of Arctic discovery, his patient

scientific research, his loyalty to his employers, his dauntless

courage and enthusiasm, his care for the welfare of his men, form an

example which has been a beacon light to the best Arctic explorers for

all time.

When Davis returned from his last Arctic voyage, England was

threatened by the Spanish Armada and there could be no thought but

for her defence. Our Arctic navigator was also an expert pilot of the

Channel, and had constructed a chart with soundings, mainly from his

own surveys. His ability and zeal were well known, but he could only

obtain the command of a small vessel of 20 tons called the _Black Dog_

to act as tender to the Lord Admiral. She served throughout the war.

Davis afterwards commanded the _Drake_ to unite with the squadron of

the Earl of Cumberland and prey upon Spanish commerce, joining him

between Flores and Fayal in the Azores. These war services had the

satisfactory result of enriching Davis with prize money and enabling

him to undertake an expedition having geographical discovery for its

main object.

The admirable character of the subsequent services of John Davis was

due in great measure to the influence of his Arctic training and

experience, but the plan of the present work makes it impossible to

recount those services in detail. In joining the second expedition of

Cavendish to the South Sea, the object of Davis was to discover the

passage thither by the north, entering on the west side. In an evil

hour Davis consented to unite forces with Cavendish, and commanded the

_Desire_ of 120 tons, contributing a large sum to the expedition. The

terrible story of the dangers and sufferings in the Straits of Magellan

and how through them all Davis diligently surveyed and prepared

sailing directions, and the disastrous voyage home, are all graphically

described by his friend Janes. This failure of the venture on which all

the hopes of Davis had been set was heart-breaking. All his money was

lost. To add to his affliction he returned to Sandridge only to find

that his wife had deserted him, and that his three little boys were

motherless.

Davis’s energy was in no way weakened by his sorrows and misfortunes.

For two years he lived in retirement at Sandridge, busily engaged on

his two works, _The Seaman’s Secrets_ and the _World’s Hydrographical

Description_. The first was dedicated to his old Admiral, Lord

Howard of Effingham, on the 20th August, 1594. It was a book of

instruction intended for sailors, a work on practical navigation,

treating exclusively on “those things that are needfully required

in a sufficient seaman.” “I distrust not,” he wrote, “but that all

honest-minded seamen and pilots of reputation will gratefully accept

this book, only in regard of my friendly good-will towards them, for it

is not only in respect of my pains, but of my love that I would receive

favourable courtesy[51].” But Davis’s work was by no means limited

to promoting the safety of English ships by his surveys and charts,

and greatly assisting their navigation by the publication of his

_Seaman’s Secrets_. He did much towards the improvement of instruments

for observing for latitude. The Davis quadrant was the forerunner of

the plan of taking angles by reflection and was a great improvement

on the cross-staff. It came into general use, and held its own until

the invention of Hadley’s quadrant in 1731. There was even one in use

on board the _Royal George_ when she sank at Spithead[52]. Davis’s

other work, _The World’s Hydrographical Description_ is a learned

disquisition on the discovery of a north-west passage to Cathay, and on

the advantages to be derived from Arctic exploration.

Davis’s career as a seaman and explorer did not terminate until many

years later when, on December 27th, 1605, he was murdered by Japanese

pirates off the coast of Malacca. As chief pilot of the first Dutch

expedition to the East Indies in 1598, and again in the service of

the East India Company under Sir James Lancaster, he did good work in

eastern waters. But his Arctic explorations were over. As a consummate

pilot, a scientific seaman, and a great discoverer he takes rank among

the foremost sea worthies of the glorious reign of Queen Elizabeth[53].

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