[Illustration]
Draft by measure—breast, 36; waist, 24; and hip, 40. Length to waist 14½,
and full length, 26.
By using these measures we will endeavor to show how to draft a jacket,
each piece separately, thus doing away with the over-lapping of patterns
as it occurs when it is drafted altogether, as in our previous articles
on proportionate cutting. It is the same principle, but more practical,
as a pattern can thus be cut whole in the skirt.
Commence by drawing the back construction line from O to L and O to P.
From O down is three-fourths inch to T.
From O to E is one-fourth of breast—9 inches.
From T measure down to the waist 14½ inches, and the full length to L, 26
inches, and from O over on top line to 5 two inches, and curve the top,
T, to 5.
B is midway between O and E.
K is 6 inches below the waist; now draw all the lines across.
At F go in 1½ inch to back, and draw a curved line from the centre seam
of the back, from T to 1½, and spring out three-fourths inch at 9, thence
to L.
From E to 7 is one-third and one inch, equal to 7 inches. Draw a line up
from 7 to 3, and one from 5 to 3.
Raise above 3 one-half inch to 4, then curve the shoulder-seam of the
back; form also the curved line from 4 to 6.
Point 6 is midway between 3 and 7. Make the width of the back at waist 2
inches, and from 2 draw a straight line down to the bottom.
Now curve the side seam from 6 past 2 to 10 at bottom, which point is
three-fourths of an inch outside of the straight line, also connect L and
10 by a line.
[Illustration: Fig. 15]