THE FRONT.—FIG. 14.

All the lines are extended over on the paper, and the side-body and back

are laid in the position as when they were drafted, and as shown.

First measure from B to V, one-half the breast-measure, and draw line A

up and down.

From B to R is the measure to the front of the arm, where a line is drawn

up. From P back, place one-sixth of the breast to N, here draw a line up

and down, as shown.

[Illustration: Fig. 14.]

Measure up from star on side, marked Z, to line at N, the front length

less the width of the top of back, and where this reaches on the line fix

the height.

From this height draw a line to A, which gives the height of shoulder.

From P as pivot sweep from N to 21 for neck. Place the length of back

shoulder from F to S on to N, on line N, and where it reaches will be

point 22.

Drop one-half inch below line and curve from 22 to 23, which is

one-fourth above the line, to N. Also curve arm-hole from 22 through R to

H.

Draw the front line one-half inch inside at 21, curving outside one-half

inch near V, coming back to line at U, and outside one-half inch at

bottom to point 20.

From H, through L, draw line to 11.

Whatever the distance from 11 to 24 is place over from 11 to 13 and then

curve from L, through 12, to 13. Sweep the bottom from 13 by a point 1

inch back of N and flatten this curve near 14.

Midway between R and V fix point 2, and midway between 2 and R point 1.

Measure the distance from the front at U to 10 and from 2 to C.

Deduct the half size of waist from this last and the remainder is taken

out in darts.

From U to 12 is 2 inches.

From 12 to 9 is one-half of what is to be taken out in darts.

From 9 to 8 is always three-fourths of an inch.

From 8 to 7 is another dart.

Fix a point in the centre of the darts and draw a straight line from 1

and 2 to 6 and 5; and at right angles with waist-line draw lines from

centre of dart down to the bottom. Now, one-third of the height under

arm, down, fix point 3, and make 4 one-half inch more.

Draw the darts from 3 and 4 through the points, as shown, to 15 and 14.

Handbook on dress and cloak cutting · 第 16 / 41 题