liking, for it would have been more than disagreeable had we been
forced to camp outside the walls, where were, when we arrived, at
least three thousand Sioux Indians. Their buffalo-skin lodges dotted
the plain all around the fort until one could have well fancied there
were three times the real number in the neighborhood, and it was as
if their tepees were countless, although John Mitchell was told that
they had no more than six hundred.
I learned shortly after our arrival that the Sioux had gathered here
for the purpose of making ready to attack the tribes of the Snakes and
Crows, and they had but just finished their war dance when we came up,
seemingly having no regard for the violent storm which was raging.
Even as we drove into the fort the water was descending from the
clouds in torrents, but there were hundreds of these savages dancing
and singing, and in various ways striving to show their joy because a
war was about to be begun against their enemies.
A SIOUX ENCAMPMENT
A Sioux lodge is made of poles lightly stuck into the ground, in a
circle of about ten feet in diameter; the tops come together within
less than twelve inches, this opening being left for the smoke to pass
out, because in stormy weather the Sioux women do all their cooking
under cover, when a fire is built in the center of the tepee. Herein
they differ considerably from the Pawnees, who seem to think it
disgraceful to seek shelter, save in the most bitter weather of
winter.
Over the framework of poles are buffalo robes, tied together with
sinews until the covering will shed water and resist wind. Inside,
the floor is covered thickly with skins of many kinds, on which by day
the occupants lounge or cook, play or gamble, as best suits their
fancy, and at night the same furs serve as a bed for all the family.
It was at Fort Laramie that I was met by certain members of the
American Fur Company, who had in the older days been well acquainted
with my father, and had seen me more than once when I was with him.
[Illustration]
They paid their respects to my mother, and she and I, in company with
John Mitchell and Susan, were invited to dinner with the gentlemen. We
had cold corned beef and biscuit, with plenty of milk to drink, which
fare was to us a luxury.
INDIANS ON THE MARCH
We remained at Fort Laramie one day and had the good fortune to see
the Indians setting out on the march, the men to go against their
enemies, and the women to return to the villages.
We saw the squaws taking down the lodges and fastening the poles on
either side of the pack animals, with one end dragging on the ground.
Across these poles, just behind the horse, were lashed short pieces of
wood, forming a framework on which were tied the food, furs, and
household belongings, while in many cases the children rode on top of
the load during the journey.
[Illustration]
Then the babies were shut up in small willow cages, and either
fastened on the backs of the pack horses, or securely tied to the
trailing poles.
The women performed all the work from taking down the lodges to
leading the pack animals. The men did nothing save sit on their
ponies, decked out in a fanciful array of feathers, with their war
shields and spears from which fluttered gay-colored bits of cloth, as
if their only purpose in life was to present a warlike appearance.
As I told the girls, those Sioux Indians making ready for battle were
the first real savages we had met. They would not hesitate to carry
away anything belonging to a white man, if they could get their hands
upon it, but they acted more like men, than did any we had seen
before.
THE FOURTH OF JULY
Within two days after leaving Fort Laramie, we killed three elks and
four deer. It was necessary to halt another day in order to cure the
meat, after which we pushed on at our best speed until the Fourth of
July, when all the company, John Mitchell's following as well as that
party of emigrants who joined us at Ash Hollow, remained in camp
during a full day to celebrate properly the winning of our
independence.
There was nothing we could do, save follow the example of the savages,
when they want to show signs of rejoicing, and that was to make a
great feast.
I had the good fortune to shoot an elk and an antelope shortly after
daybreak that morning, and much to my surprise John Mitchell and one
of the men brought in a small bear.
During the feast those men who believed they excelled in speech making
showed their skill at great length. The chief part of what was said
concerned the Oregon country and the possibility that the Government
at Washington would stretch out its arms over the land to which we
were traveling, showing the English people that we claimed it as our
own, and intended to hold it against all comers.
This halting for the celebration was of advantage to the cattle, whose
feet were yet sore, for they needed rest quite as much as did the
women of the company.
[Illustration]
Then, when we set off once more, it was with greater cheerfulness and
increased hope, for the way could not have been improved nor made more
pleasant. There was timber in abundance, so we were not put to it for
fuel, and as for game, a good hunter might go out at almost any hour
in the day two or three miles from our wagon train, and bring back
deer, buffaloes, antelopes, or even bears.
MULTITUDES OF BUFFALOES
Ten days after we celebrated the independence of this country we
encamped near the Narrows, within sight of the snow-capped Wind River
Mountains, and then it was that our company got some idea of what a
herd of buffaloes looked like.
[Illustration]
When we broke camp in the morning it seemed as if the entire land was
covered with the animals. They were in such throngs that the sound of
their hoofs was like the rumbling of distant thunder, and one could
hear the click, click, clicking of the thousands upon thousands of
horns when they came together in battle, for the bulls appeared to be
fighting incessantly as they moved here and there.
Some of the brutes were rolling in the dust, turning from side to side
as if in greatest delight, others had gathered in groups as if
watching those who fought. One could compare the scene to nothing
more than to an ocean of dark water surrounding us on every side,
pitching and tossing as if under the influence of a strong wind.
It was such a sight as I had seen more than once, but to my companions
it was terrifying at the same time that it commanded their closest
attention.
[Illustration]
The big brutes were in such numbers that they gave no heed to us. Had
we been needing meat, hundreds upon hundreds might have been brought
down within a mile of the encampment. As it was, four of our men could
not resist the temptation to go out and kill some, although it was
wanton butchery, for we had then so much flesh in camp that more could
not be carried.
I was a little anxious on beginning the day's march, fearing lest we
might find ourselves in the midst of that herd, for they gave no
attention to man even when our people were shooting.
But it was not for us to halt because of a lot of stupid buffaloes,
and I gave the word to move on, insisting that all the men, being
fully armed, should guard the cows lest they be stampeded.
For two hours we rode in the very midst of that countless herd, with
the shaggy, heavy brutes pressing so close to our wagons that some of
the men were forced to go on ahead and drive them away by firing
pistols or using clubs, for one could get near enough to pommel them
as you might pommel a lazy horse.
I did not breathe freely until past noon, and then we had left behind
us that surging sea of beasts.
But for the fact that the time would come, as I knew full well, when
we should need meat, I would have said I hoped we should never see
another buffalo that side of the mountains.
WE MEET COLONEL KEARNY AGAIN
On this night, within about a dozen miles of the Narrows, we came upon
Colonel Kearny's soldiers, returning from their long march, having
come through South Pass. Somewhat of the hardships they had
encountered, and which we must face, could be guessed at by looking at
those seasoned troopers, who appeared to be completely exhausted by
long riding and scanty rations.
No less than twenty of the men were on the sick list, and at least a
hundred others looked as if they soon would be.
[Illustration]
I believe nothing could have been shown John Mitchell's company which
would have told more eloquently of the hardships to be encountered
when we came among the foothills.
Then we pushed onward more sturdily, and I could see that every man in
our company was looking forward into the future, understanding that
there must be no faltering now, else they would fall by the wayside,
as had so many of whom we heard from day to day.
On the seventeenth day of July we felt the first frost of the season,
when ice formed a quarter of an inch thick, and this warned our people
that there was no time to be lost, if we would win our way through. If
winter caught us while we were among the mountains, it would be
necessary to make camp until spring, and who could say whether during
those long months we would be able to get sufficient game to keep us
alive?
ACROSS THE DIVIDE
[Illustration]
Two days after we had this first token that winter was coming, we
passed over the dividing ridge which separates the waters flowing into
the Atlantic from those which find their way into the Pacific Ocean,
and, bringing the train to a stop before any of our people realized
that we had arrived at what one might call the parting of the ways, I
called out that three cheers be given for the Oregon country, at the
same time pointing to the streams which were running westward.
There was great excitement in our company when it was known that we
were really on the Divide, and regardless of the fact that we should
have been pushing on, all insisted upon halting until late in the
afternoon, in order, as Mary Parker said, that they might celebrate
properly having accomplished thus much of the journey.
That night the air was filled with frost, and we who had been sleeping
with no blankets over us, were glad to wrap ourselves in whatsoever we
could lay hands upon, to prevent our blood from being chilled.
When we camped, there was no water to be seen on either hand, nothing
save the sandy bed of the stream, and I verily believe all our people
would have gone thirsty if I had not insisted that they dig in the
sand a hole from eighteen to twenty inches in depth.
We then watched until enough brackish water had oozed up to moisten
the tongues of our thirsty stock, after which, by waiting a full hour
we got enough to satisfy us partly.
It was the twenty-fifth day of July when we halted at Fort Bridger
and set up our tents just outside the adobe walls, for, knowing the
place right well, I had no desire to spend a night inside the
inclosure.
FORT BRIDGER
This fort, like many another, is little more than a trading post, and
was built two years before we started for the Oregon country, by two
old trappers who had turned fur traders. The largest building is made
of adobes and serves as storehouse, while the others are flimsy
shelters built from time to time to serve the needs of visitors.
I remember having heard in St. Louis why James Bridger forsook his
calling of trapper to engage as trader, and have even seen the letter
he wrote Pierre Chouteau when he settled in the valley of Black's Fork
of the Green River, asking that goods for trading with the Indians be
sent to him.
In it he wrote: "I have established a small fort with a blacksmith
shop and a supply of iron, on the road of the emigrants, which
promises fairly. People coming from the East are generally well
supplied with money, but by the time they get here are in want of all
kinds of supplies. Horses, provisions, and smith work bring ready cash
from them, and should I receive the goods hereby ordered will do a
considerable business with them. The same establishment trades with
the Indians in the neighborhood, who have mostly a good number of
beaver among them."
John Mitchell had a very good idea of how great a profit the owners of
the fort hoped to make, when he was forced to pay five cents a pound
for flour, and three dollars a pound for powder, with other supplies
in like proportion.
[Illustration]
James Bridger was exceedingly kind to mother and me when he learned
who we were, for he had often trapped in company with my father, and I
believe he would have given us outright anything we might have needed
from his stores, had we told him we lacked money with which to pay for
what was wanted; but I would not have taken a dollar's worth from any
man, unless my mother had been in sore distress.
Susan Mitchell was greatly interested in the trapper who had turned
trader, when she heard from my mother that James Bridger had been
grievously wounded in a battle with the Blackfeet Indians, had
received two arrows through his back, and yet after so severe an
injury he, with his friend, Bascus, and two other comrades, held the
savages at bay for two days, until a company of white hunters came to
his relief.
One of the arrows was taken from Bridger's body during the fight, but
the other held firm in the wound, and Bascus cut off the wooden
portion close to the flesh, letting the iron head remain. This piece
of metal he carried in his body three years, until Dr. Marcus Whitman,
who was on his way to the Oregon country, cut it out after long and
painful work. The arrowhead was three inches long, and the barbs had
become hooked around one of the man's bones, which held it until it
was cut out by Dr. Whitman.
We were at our nearest point to the Great Salt Lake, and at this place
a trail branched off, leading to what is known as Ogden's Hole, close
by that vast inland sea. If we had desired to go to the California
country, it would only have been necessary to continue on around the
Wasatch Mountains, and then strike off again to the westward, unless
we were inclined to climb the hills, going by the way of that salt
lake.
There were twenty-five lodges of Indians near Fort Bridger, some of
the savages having come to trade, and not a few of them being employed
as trappers by the fur buyers. They were mostly of the Snake tribe
and had with them quite a large herd of cattle.
Already Susan Mitchell and Mary Parker had seen enough of the Indians
to satisfy their curiosity, and whether they wore moccasins of a
little different pattern from other Indians, or fashioned their bows
and arrows after another manner, was not sufficient inducement to
persuade them to encounter such conditions as were to be found in the
lodges.
[Illustration]
In order to give our cattle a rest we remained at Fort Bridger two
days, after which we went on again with the hope of soon coming upon
the Columbia River.
Our men had been told by the fur buyers that it was of the greatest
importance we push forward at all speed, lest we be caught among the
hills by the snow, and during the four or five days following our
departure from the post, we traveled more rapidly than at any other
time since leaving Independence.
The month of August had well set in when we came to Soda Springs, and
there it was I had counted upon surprising Susan Mitchell; nor was I
disappointed.
[Illustration]
These springs are small hills or mounds standing at the right of the
trail near a grove of cedars and pines, while the water that has
oozed out of them in the past has formed a solid crust of soda for
miles around, so hard that one may walk upon it.
The liquid soda is warm and sparkling as it comes to the surface, and
when it has been led some distance away where it may be cooled, is as
pleasing a drink as one can find in any of the shops in the East, for
it is the true soda water as made by God Himself.
TRADING AT FORT HALL
At the end of the first week in August we arrived early one forenoon,
at Fort Hall, which is a trading post belonging to the Hudson's Bay
Company and having the appearance of a regular fortification, because
of being built chiefly of adobe brick.
[Illustration]
There we were able to buy flour at two cents a pound, providing we
were willing to pay for it in cattle at the rate of from five to
twelve dollars per head, and since we had two lame oxen and three cows
that could travel but little farther, we laid in a supply, being
allowed for our five animals thirty-six dollars in goods.
At this place John Mitchell's people were urged to abandon the idea of
going into the Oregon country because of the hardships and dangers
which must be encountered, and those trappers who were lounging about
the fort insisted that it would be better that we went to California,
instead of attempting to go farther on the road we had chosen.
The emigrants who had joined us on the way became frightened because
of the many stories which were told, and decided to try their fortunes
in California rather than Oregon. Therefore when we pulled out from
Fort Hall, Susan Mitchell was saddened at parting with Mary Parker,
who had been a cheery comrade for the girl during the time they had
traveled together.
THIEVISH SNAKES
We were now in the country of the Snake Indians, and while one might
believe that the Pawnees are the most expert thieves in the world, he
has simply to come across the Snake tribe in order to learn what may
be done in the way of robbery.
Two days after we left Fort Hall, when I had warned John Mitchell
that it was necessary to keep a sharp watch both day and night lest
even the clothing be stolen from our backs, he laughed me to scorn;
but I noticed that he took exceedingly good care of his saddle horse,
not only hobbling the animal, but tying him to a picket rope which was
fastened to his own wrist.
This he did twice, and yet on the third morning, despite all such
precautions, the horse was gone, the hobble having been cut and left
on the ground, while the picket rope was severed neatly within a half
dozen inches of his hand.
This theft had been committed while Mr. Mitchell slept, and he prided
himself upon being one who was easily aroused. After this, and I may
as well say here that John Mitchell never saw his horse again, there
was no reason why I should urge watchfulness upon any of our people.
They voluntarily redoubled the guards while we were in the Snake
country, and although I am not able to say we got through without
losing anything, nothing of great value was taken from us, with the
exception of the horse.
THE HOT SPRINGS
I had one more marvel on this road to the Oregon country with which to
surprise Susan Mitchell, and that was the Hot Springs, which were
within a mile of the trail; therefore I led the company directly to
them, there making camp.
[Illustration]
There are five or six of these springs, from which water bubbles up so
hot that one may boil meat in it without need of fire, and when I said
as much to Susan's mother, she was inclined to think I would make
sport of her; therefore she boldly plunged her hand in, with the
result that every part of the skin which came in contact with the
water was reddened to the point of being blistered.
That night we boiled some pemmican[1] in one of the springs, and the
girls of the party amused themselves by making up balls of meal dough
and lowering them into the water by strands of plaited grass, cooking
them as dumplings are cooked in a stew of meat.
When we camped at Portneuf Crossing, mother told us the story of the
trapper Portneuf, who was murdered at this place by the Indians, and
spoke in such a tragic manner that even John Mitchell was impressed by
the brutal details. When I made the rounds of the camp before going to
sleep, I took note that none of the men were inclined to move around
alone outside the rays of light cast by the camp fires, and he whose
turn it was to stand watch, had with him a companion, much as though
he was afraid to remain without a comrade near at hand in a place
where such an evil deed had been done.
FOOTNOTE:
[1] A prepared meat carried by all travelers over the Oregon trail.
THE FALLS OF THE SNAKE RIVER
Next day, after a march of fourteen miles, we came to the American
Falls of the Snake River, and supper was long delayed because all the
women and girls were lost in wonder and surprise at the beautiful
scene. I told them that the Snake River flows over three immense
cataracts, the American, the Shoshone, and Salmon Falls, one quite as
awe-inspiring as the other.
We slept that night with the roaring of the cataract drowning all
other noises, and next morning we were as wet as if we had been
exposed to a smart shower. The wind had changed about midnight, and
the spray from the falls was blown into the tents as well as under
the wagon covers, until we were so uncomfortable that sleep left us at
an early hour.
[Illustration]
Because of thus being awakened before break of day, we set off on the
march sooner than usual, with the result that before sunset we had
arrived at Raft River, twenty-six long miles from the American falls.
The trail was difficult even for pack horses, and there were many
places where it seemed an absolute impossibility to drag the heavy
wagons with the teams doubled until we had at times as many as twelve
yoke of cattle to one cart.
We were encamped in a valley, the bottom lands of which were covered
with heavy, rich grass that must have been a real surprise to the
animals after the scanty fare they had had from the time of leaving
Fort Bridger. I believed that we might spend a full day here, in order
to give the animals good rest before undertaking the mountainous
trail, and was on the point of telling John Mitchell what I had in
mind when Susan called my attention to six or eight wreaths of smoke
coming from as many different points on the mountains around us.
SIGNS OF THE INDIANS
To the girl it was a cause only for surprise that smoke should be seen
ascending in such a place; but on the instant I was alarmed, knowing
beyond doubt that signal fires had been kindled by the Indians,
warning others of their tribe that a small company of white people
were where they might be attacked with small chance of defending
themselves.
No one except my mother knew of the anxiety which filled my heart that
night. Knowing that we were at the mercy of the savages, if they
should fall upon us while we were in the valley and they on the rising
ground around us, I could not sleep, although needing rest sadly. I
spent the time until sunrise walking from one sentinel to another in
order to make certain each man was keeping sharp watch.
John Mitchell must have guessed that danger threatened, for he came
out from beneath the cover of his wagon shortly after midnight and
remained on the alert until sunrise.
[Illustration]
Then we could see many columns of smoke from the sides of the
mountains, and I knew we were surrounded by savages who would not
hesitate to make an attack in order to gain possession of our goods,
if it could be done without great danger to themselves.
BESET WITH DANGER
I would not listen to John Mitchell when he proposed that we make a
hurried start, for I knew the Indians were near enough to see clearly
what we were doing, and at the first show of fear on our part the
whole crew would be upon us. However, I insisted that no member of the
company should stray ever so short a distance from the train, and I
took good care that the cows were herded in close order between two of
the wagons.
Despite all I could say to the contrary, Susan insisted on
accompanying me when I rode to and fro along the line, keeping sharp
watch for a possible ambush and fearing each instant to hear that
savage yell which would tell that the enemy was upon us.
Yet we passed along the mountain sides and across narrow valleys in
peace until after sixteen miles we arrived at the banks of Marsh
Creek, where I gave the word that a halt be made, because then we were
where it would be possible to make some show of defending ourselves in
event of an attack, owing to a small thicket of stunted pines on a
slight elevation of land near the water.