could see that we were in a game country, and because our people were
really in need of fresh meat, to say nothing of the desire of the men
for sport, I gave the word to halt and make camp.
John Mitchell angrily demanded why I had halted the company before the
forenoon was half spent.
When I told him that here was our opportunity to get antelope steaks
for supper, he looked at me as if he believed I was talking of
something wholly beyond my knowledge. I have an idea he would have
countermanded my order to form camp, insisting that we move on, had
not his wife suggested that now we were so near the river, where the
bank was shelving instead of steep, it would be a good time for the
women to finish washing their clothing.
[Illustration]
After she had spoken he said to me:--
"Very well, lad, you may show the other men your antelopes. I have no
desire for a wild-goose chase across the prairie."
I gave little heed to his banter, and those who had been so eager for
the hunt were right willing to follow me on the chance that they
might come upon something that could be killed; John Mitchell finally
consented to go with us, in order, as he said, to hear what sort of
excuse I would make for not finding game.
We rode straight away from the river, and within half an hour came
upon a herd of from twenty to thirty antelopes feeding less than three
miles away, whereupon every member of the company would have started
off singly, taking the poor chances of getting a shot, had I not
insisted they should hold themselves under my orders, lest there be no
possibility of bringing in fresh meat that day.
"You made a good guess, lad," John Mitchell said to me, as if he was
disappointed because we had brought the game to view, and I replied:--
"Any one familiar with this country may say with reasonable certainty
that he will find deer in such and such a place without first having
seen any signs. With buffaloes it is different. But on feeding grounds
like this, one can declare positively that he will come upon some kind
of deer without riding very far."
SHOOTING ANTELOPES
Then I gave the word for the men to divide into two parties, one going
to the right and the other to the left toward the herd, in order to
come up with them on both sides at the same moment, and the silly
animals did not note our approach until we were within half a mile.
Then they showed how rapidly they could run.
I have never seen antelopes in full flight without thinking how nearly
alike they are to swallows, both for swiftness and the manner in which
they bound over the ground without seeming to touch it. There are not
many horses that can come up with this game once the fleet animals
have been aroused; but I knew my pony could gain upon them in a chase
of five miles or less, and straightway urged him on, shouting for the
others to follow.
[Illustration]
It was like horses accustomed to the plow striving to keep the pace
with a blooded racer, when we struck off across the plains, and before
two miles had been traversed, my companions were left so far in the
rear that there was little chance they could take any part in this
sport.
I urged Napoleon on until we were in fairly good range, when, firing
rapidly, I brought two of the beautiful creatures to the ground.
There was no possibility of overtaking the herd, once having halted,
so swinging the game across the saddle in front of me, I let my pony
walk leisurely back to where the men waited, each of them looking with
envious eyes at the result of the chase.
Within half an hour after our return to camp, five or six fires had
been built, and our people were busily engaged in cooking the fresh
meat, which was so welcome to them, giving little or no heed to
anything save the preparations for a feast. Suddenly a single Indian
of the Pawnee tribe stood before us, having ridden up without
attracting the attention of any member of the company.
A PAWNEE VISITOR
It was the first time such a thing had ever occurred while I was
supposed to be on duty, and I said to myself that until we had come
into the Oregon country and I had said good-by to these people, I
should never again be caught off guard.
The Indian who had thus surprised me was as fine a specimen of a
Pawnee as I have ever seen. He was tall, had a good figure, and rode a
handsome pony which was really fat,--something seldom come upon, for
the Indians do not generally allow their horses to take on very much
flesh.
He wore a calico shirt, buckskin leggings, and fancifully decorated
moccasins. It would seem as if he had set himself up as a trader in
footgear, for he carried with him half a dozen or more pairs of
moccasins, some of them well worn, which he wanted to trade for meat.
[Illustration]
Our people were so foolish as to bargain with him, when, had they been
content to wait a few days longer, until we were in a country
abounding with game, they might have made any number of pairs out of
fresh hides.
This fellow remained in camp after having disposed of his wares, until
he had eaten three times as much as could any member of our company,
going from camp fire to camp fire and gorging himself as an Indian
will, until it was only with difficulty that he could mount his pony.
I felt more at ease when the fellow had left us, for I never see one
of his race hanging around an encampment without good reason for
believing he is trying to steal something; but the women of our
company were saddened because he went so soon, and I verily believe
they would have served him with another feast had it been possible for
him to eat more.
There was, perhaps, some petulance in my tones when I told Susan
Mitchell that she need not feel badly because he had taken his
departure so soon, for before arriving at the Oregon country she would
come across Indians to her heart's content, and perhaps to her heart's
sorrow.
I little dreamed how soon my words were to come true, although knowing
that we would meet more red people than white during the remainder of
the journey; but next day, when we had traveled perhaps eight miles
and were halted at noon that the women might prepare dinner, our
company saw Indians in a way which was, during a few moments, anything
rather than pleasant.
THE PAWNEES TRY TO FRIGHTEN US
We had camped in a slight depression of the prairie, and were just
about eating the noonday meal, when the distant trampling of hoofs
told me that a party of some considerable size was approaching.
I had barely time to spring to my feet before twenty-three mounted
Pawnees, all armed with bows and arrows, rode up over the crest of
land, halting there an instant as if to measure our strength.
Because they were not in full paint, I understood that it was a
hunting party, and therefore I gave the word for our men to arm
themselves without delay, for it is true that in the wilderness one
expects the savages will take advantage of any opportunity to work
mischief.
John Mitchell was not disposed to obey the command, fearing lest if we
made any show of warlike preparations it would only incite the Indians
to anger, but, fortunately, the other men did as I told them.
[Illustration]
Marshaling this little force, I moved out from among the wagons,
bidding every fellow to stand firm, while I motioned for the savages
to keep back. However, they urged their ponies on at full speed,
riding toward us like fiends, and, as I knew very well, striving to
throw us into a panic, in which case there is no question but that
they would have plundered the camp.
Because I was the guide, it was necessary for me to take on the
greater share of the danger, and, stepping four or five paces in
advance of my comrades, I made signs for the savages to keep away, at
the same time leveling my rifle.
[Illustration]
The band was coming down upon us at the full speed of their ponies,
when I thus gave evidence that it was my intention to fire if they
continued, and immediately the horses were checked, the band riding
off toward the south, leaving the leader behind.
DEFENDING OURSELVES
Dismounting, while the others wheeled about to join him again, he came
toward me, his eyes roving from one member of our company to the
other, as if to learn whether we had backbone enough to stand up for
our rights.
He must have understood that we would put up with no foolishness, for
straightway all his show of fierceness vanished. He told me that his
party had been out hunting buffaloes, but failed to come across any,
and then begged like a dog for us to give him food.
To have admitted such a crowd into our encampment would have been
giving them a license to plunder, therefore I warned the fellow off. I
insisted that they go back to their village, where, beyond doubt, they
would find food if they were very hungry.
[Illustration]
John Mitchell would have argued with me because I was turning hungry
people away; but I refused to listen to him, and put on such a bold
front that without further parley the leader mounted his pony, and
away they went over the ridge, much to my relief.
When we were making camp that night a party of emigrants, numbering no
less than fifty, all bound for the Oregon country, came up with us.
Instead of halting as one might have supposed, for a quiet chat, they
rode on as though fearing we might want to join them, and I said to
myself that their guide must be one who, like myself, had already
traversed the Oregon trail; yet I was pleased because of their desire
to continue on alone.
SCARCITY OF FUEL, AND DISCOMFORT
We made only twelve miles on this day, and then camped on the open
prairie where we were sadly in need of fuel, being obliged to scrape
up dried grass and gather even the tiniest twigs. The scarcity of fuel
was no more than might have been expected, for now we were coming to
that part of the country where wood was a rarity.
Next day the wind blew strong and cold from the northwest, and the
cattle hurried onward in order, as it seemed, to keep up a circulation
of the blood, therefore before we encamped, our party had advanced
twenty miles nearer our destination; but all the men and boys were
decidedly uncomfortable in body.
We had crossed five or six creeks which were no more than half their
usual height; but the beds of the streams were so soft that we were
forced again and again to wade in that we might lay our shoulders to
the wheels when the wagons were stuck fast in the mire.
[Illustration]
To work in water nearly above your waist for half an hour or more
until having become thoroughly heated and then come out into that
chilling wind, was indeed a hardship.
During the next day, which was the 7th of June, we saw the first signs
of buffaloes, and then indeed our hunters were wild to go out and kill
some of the huge animals, insisting that I lead the party.
Through these bottom lands, which were from two to four miles wide,
there ran in every direction buffalo paths, which had been traversed
so often by the animals that they were no less than fifteen inches
wide and four inches deep in the solid earth, and as smooth as if cut
out with a spade.
Although we knew that buffaloes ranged in this region, it would indeed
have been folly to set off, especially at nightfall, with the idea
that we might find a herd, and so I told the eager ones, who grumbled
not a little, believing I refused to lead them in the chase because of
my own indolence.
LAME OXEN
When we made camp, after having traveled sixteen miles, John Mitchell
called my attention to the fact that our oxen were growing lame, and
he seemed quite vexed because I treated it as a matter of course.
Any one who has traveled from the Missouri River to the Oregon
country, knows that while crossing the prairies, which are covered
with a dry stubble of matted grass, the hoofs of the animals will
become hard and crack, thus allowing dirt to collect in the crevices
until the leg above the hoof swells, and sometimes festers.
There is only one way to treat this trouble, which is to wash
thoroughly in water made very strong with soap, and then scrape away
all the diseased part of the hoof, after which tar, or hot pitch,
should be applied freely.
[Illustration]
Our men should have looked after the feet of the animals, but perhaps
because that required too much labor, they had allowed the poor beasts
to go neglected, and now had come the time when, unless they set about
it manfully, our journey to the Oregon country might be ended
suddenly.
AN ARMY OF EMIGRANTS
That evening, while every man was working for the relief of the oxen,
three companies of emigrants, one after another, came up and encamped
within half a mile of us, until we had close under our eyes,
belonging to these strangers, more than a hundred wagons.
There were in the first company fifty-two wagons, each drawn by four
yoke of cattle; the smallest company had thirteen wagons in its train,
therefore you can understand that we were almost an army.
Now John Mitchell and Susan understood why I had protested against
joining forces with any of the companies we came across, for at this
place the grass was scanty indeed, with many animals to feed upon it,
and we had the greatest difficulty to find for our beasts as much food
as they were needing.
I insisted on pulling out at an early hour next morning, in order to
get ahead of this army of emigrants, and we traveled all day without
finding better food for the cattle, encamping at night, after having
journeyed twelve miles, with the knowledge that every beast we owned
was sadly in need of something to eat.
One train of the emigrants which we had left behind, numbering
forty-three wagons, came within sight of our camp that night just at
sunset and, finding the grass poor where we had halted, continued on;
but I knew full well there were not hours enough of daylight remaining
for them to find better pasturage.
When another day dawned the rain was falling heavily, and even John
Mitchell proposed that we remain in camp, rather than attempt to push
on; but when I reminded him that the oxen and cows were straying here
and there, striving eagerly to pick up a few scanty blades of grass,
he held his peace.
[Illustration]
We continued the journey while floods of water came down from the
clouds, until before we were half an hour on the way every one, save
the women and children, who were protected by the wagon covers, was
drenched.
After traveling fifteen miles, we encamped where the ground was so
sodden that our feet sank into the soil two inches or more; however,
we gained such shelter as we could under the wagon bodies or beneath
the wagon coverings, striving to sleep while the wind drove the rain
in upon us like a shower bath.
We could not well put up the tents in such mire, and it was more
comfortable pacing to and fro as if doing sentry duty, than lying at
full length in a veritable swamp.
Again we set out with the rain coming down as if it would never cease,
passing village after village of prairie dogs; but the children and
the women showed no desire to spend any time looking at them, for all
our company were in such discomfort that it would have needed
something more than an ordinary animal to entice them out of their way
a dozen paces.
Not until we arrived at the lower crossing of the Platte River did the
storm of rain subside, and while we were striving to get the wagons
across, the sun came out with full strength, making matters quite as
uncomfortable for us who labored, as when the torrents of water were
pouring down upon our bodies.
THE BUFFALO COUNTRY
At this crossing the water was from one to three feet deep and the bed
of the river sandy, therefore in order to get our wagons over it was
necessary to double up the teams, and in some cases put on twelve or
fourteen yoke of oxen, all of which required considerable time.
When we were on the other side of the river, and our men so weary that
they spent but little time making camp, in order the sooner to throw
themselves down to rest, I aroused them to the highest pitch of
excitement by announcing that now we were in a buffalo country, and
that before many hours had passed they should have as many short
ribs, humps, and tongues for roasting as could be eaten at one meal,
however hungry they were.
As if some magic change had been wrought, every man sprang to his
feet, insisting that we go at once in search of the game; but I held
firm, claiming that the horses were far too weary to take part in a
hunt.
Before the next day had fully dawned, the men who were standing guard
aroused the camp by shouting excitedly that we were surrounded by
buffaloes.
[Illustration]
It was not a very great surprise to me that the huge beasts should
come so near the camp, for I had heard from men who traveled over the
Santa Fe trail that the buffaloes would often mingle with straggling
cows, and more than once had emigrants lost their live stock by having
the animals literally forced away by these big brutes.
HUNTING BUFFALOES
It was a difficult matter to restrain the hunters who were bent on
starting off on the instant, believing they could kill a buffalo with
but little effort, if one came within range.
To bring a buffalo down, one must shoot him in the lungs. To hit the
skull is much like sending a bullet against a rock, for it has no
other effect than to excite the animal, and oftentimes even then not
very much. Of course if a hunter can send a ball through the brute's
heart, that settles the matter, but it is a difficult shot.
I did my best to explain how they ought to shoot in order to kill, and
then, finding they were not inclined to heed my words, I proposed that
we set off, each going his own way and doing the work after his own
fashion.
It caused me to smile when I saw those men creeping up on some old
bull, whose flesh was so dry and tough that none save a starving man
would eat it; but they seemed to think it was size that counted.
Knowing that now was the time when I could again profit by my
experience as a hunter and trapper, I went off in chase of a couple of
young cows, and within thirty minutes had them stretched out on the
prairie. Meanwhile I believe that no less than a hundred shots had
been fired by the other members of the company; but I failed to see
that any of them had been successful.
[Illustration]
John Mitchell and one of the men who went out with him succeeded in
killing an old bull, and although during three hours of that forenoon
there were hundreds of buffaloes in sight, all our company took from
that vast herd were the two cows I had killed and the tough old fellow
that had fallen under John Mitchell's rifle.
Because Susan's father did not call upon me for advice as to how his
share of the game should be cut up ready for cooking, I held my peace,
but set about taking the flesh from each side of the spine, from the
shoulders to the rump, of the two animals I had killed. Afterward I
cut out the tongue and the hump ribs, while those two men were hacking
at their game, apparently believing his flesh should be treated after
the same manner as that of a stall-fed ox.
While I was making ready some of the hump ribs for roasting, my mother
came to my side, saying, as she pointed to our companions:--
MY MOTHER'S ADVICE
"It pains me to see these people heedless of that which they must meet
with before we can arrive at the Oregon country. They who complain
bitterly because the sun falls upon them too warmly, or that the ford
is very deep, hope to make their way to that far-off land with no more
labor and no more suffering than they have already experienced since
we left Independence."
[Illustration]
"They will soon learn, mother," I said laughingly, and yet in my heart
was sorrow for the people whom I had so lately come to know, because
of the lesson that was before them. "The one fear is that when we come
to the mountains, when we must fight with all our strength to gain a
half mile in this direction or a mile in that, camping without food
and without fuel, whether they will keep on or grow disheartened and
turn back."
"I cannot understand, my son, that you need feel anxious. Do your duty
by them as you have agreed, and even though we are forced to come
straight away back over the trail, it will be through no fault of
yours."
I have allowed myself to set down details concerning this journey of
ours into the Oregon country as if there was ample time at my
disposal; yet if I am to tell all the story of that long tramp, and
then attend to the work which I have taken upon myself, it is
necessary I hasten in the recital, instead of striving to give the
particulars of each day's march.
After leaving the camp where we had killed the buffaloes, we found the
traveling good, grass plenty, and game so abundant that one might go
out and shoot whatever he needed of buffaloes, antelopes, or elks,
without spending very much time at the work, providing he was
reasonably expert with his rifle.
ASH HOLLOW POST OFFICE
Susan rode with me, as she had from the beginning of the journey.
Nothing of note happened to us, unless I should set down that this day
was stormy, and on that day the sun shone, until we came into the
valley of the North Fork of the Platte, through a pass which is known
as Ash Hollow.
There we drove down a dry ravine on our winding way to the river
bottoms, stopping now and then to gather a store of wild currants and
gooseberries which grew in abundance.
[Illustration]
Near the mouth of the ravine we came upon a small log cabin, which had
evidently been built by trappers, but the emigrants on their way into
the Oregon country had converted it into a post office, by sticking
here and there, in the crevices of the logs, letters to be forwarded
to their friends in the States. Hung on the wall where all might see
it, was a general notice requesting any who passed on their way to the
Missouri River to take these missives, and deposit them in the nearest
regular post office.
The little cabin had an odd appearance, and Susan confessed that,
almost for the first time since leaving Independence, she was growing
homesick, solely because of seeing this queer post office.
After crossing the stream we came upon a party of emigrants from Ohio,
having only four wagons drawn by ten yoke of oxen, and driving six
cows.
Truly it was a small company to set out on so long a march, and when
the leader begged that they be allowed to join us, I could not object,
understanding that unless the strangers had some one of experience to
guide them, the chances were strongly against their arriving at the
Columbia River.
NEW COMRADES
There was in the company a girl of about Susan's age, whose name was
Mary Parker, and from that time I had two companions as I rode in
advance of the train.
I could have found no fault with these new members of our company, for
they obeyed my orders without question from the oldest man to the
youngest child.
Mary Parker was a companionable girl, and she and Susan often cheered
me on the long way, for even when the rain was coming down in
torrents, drenching them to the skin, they rode by my side, laughing
and singing.
[Illustration]
On the twenty-fourth day of June we arrived at Fort Laramie, in the
midst of a heavy storm of rain, thunder, and lightning. We had
traveled six hundred sixty-seven miles since leaving Independence, if
our course had been the most direct; but allowing for the distances
some of us had ridden in search of cattle or here and there off the
trail looking for a camping place it must have been that we made at
least a hundred miles more.
FORT LARAMIE
Fort Laramie is on the west side of a stream known as Laramie's Fork
and about two miles from the Platte River. It is a trading post
belonging to the North American Fur Company, and built of adobe, by
which I mean sun dried bricks, with walls not less than two feet thick
and twelve or fourteen feet high, the tops being well guarded by long,
sharp spikes to prevent an enemy from climbing over.
[Illustration]
This fort, if it can be called such, is simply a wall inclosing an
open square of twenty-five yards each way, along the sides of which
are the dwellings, storerooms, blacksmith shops, carpenter shops, and
offices all fronting inside, while from the outside can be seen only
two gates, one of which faces the north and the other the south.
Just south of the fort is a wall inclosing about an acre of land,
which is used as a stable or corral, while a short distance farther on
is a cultivated field, the scanty crops of which give good evidence
that the soil is not suitable for farming.
About a mile below Fort Laramie, and having much the same appearance
as that fortification, although not so large, is Fort John, which is
in possession of the St. Louis Fur Company.
[Illustration]