CONTINUATION OF THE VOYAGE--RUN SHORT OF PROVISIONS--DOGS'
FLESH--NORWAY HOUSE--INDIAN VOYAGEURS--ORDERED TO NEW CALEDONIA--LAKE
WINNIPEG--MACINTOSH'S ISLAND SUBMERGED--CUMBERLAND HOUSE--CHIPPEWEYAN
AND CREE INDIANS--PORTAGE LA LOCHE--SCENERY--ATHABASCA--HEALTHINESS OF
THE CLIMATE.
High winds detained us in camp on the 21st. The crews of two canoes,
having finished their last meal to-day, bartered some more of their
clothes for dogs. We reached a small outpost called Berens House on
the 23d, where we procured a couple of sturgeon, and a dog valued at
ten shillings, for which I gave my note of hand. I had a _preein_ of
this cynic mutton at breakfast; and could not help thinking it would
have made a most appropriate and _philosophical_ addition to the
larder of the wise man of the tub. The men, however, having been for
some time on short commons, seemed to relish it. We supped lightly
enough on the remainder of Mr. Clouston's bountiful supply, giving a
share to the men.
After a most tedious and miserable passage, we reached the outlet of
Lake Winnipeg on the 24th, and arrived next morning at Norway House.
Here the men were liberally supplied; and I found myself at breakfast
with a number of chief factors and chief traders, just arrived from
their respective districts, and on their way with their valuable
returns to York Factory. Captain Back was also here, having sent on
his men and baggage under the command of Dr. King, intending himself
to follow in a light canoe, after having forwarded his despatches to
Europe.
The day after my arrival, I was notified by one of the officials,
that it was arranged that I should pass the summer here, giving such
assistance to the gentleman in charge as might be required of me; and
that my future destination should be determined upon at York Factory.
I now passed my time very agreeably, having just enough employment
in the day-time to keep off _ennui_, and the company of several
gentlemen, and, what I thought still better, that of a fair
countrywoman,[1] in the evening. I was gratified to find that there
existed here a far greater degree of intimacy between gentlemen of
different ranks in the service, than in the Montreal department, where
a clerk is considered as a mere hireling; here, on the contrary,
commissioned officers look upon clerks as candidates for the same rank
which themselves hold, and treat them accordingly.
[1] Mistress of the establishment.
The Governor, having taken up his residence for some years past in
England, crosses the Atlantic once a year, and during his brief
sojourn, Norway House forms his head-quarters. Here it is that the
sham Council is held, and everything connected with the business of
the interior arranged. Here also is the depôt for the districts of
Athabasca and McKenzie's River, which supplies all the provisions
required for inland transport. These provisions are furnished by the
Saskatchewan district, or are purchased by the Company from the
colonists of Red River, who have no other customers.
The natives of this quarter speak a jargon of Cree and Sauteux, which
sounds very harshly. They all understand English, and some of them
speak it fluently. Many of them are constantly employed as voyageurs
between Norway House and York Factory; and none perform the trip more
expeditiously, or render their cargoes in better condition than they.
Of Christianity, they have learned just as much as enables them to
swear; in other respects, they are still Pagans.
On the 20th of July, I received a letter from Mr. Chief Factor
Cameron, who acted as President of the Council in the Governor's
absence, conveying orders for me to proceed to New Caledonia; Mr.
Charles being instructed to furnish me with a passage to Athabasca,
and to forward me afterwards to Fort Dunvegan, on Peace River, where I
was to wait the arrival of the party sent annually from New Caledonia
for a supply of leather.
The brigade having been despatched on the 27th, Mr. C. and I embarked
on the 28th, and overtook it at the entrance of Lake Winnipeg. The
crews being ashore, and enjoying themselves, we passed on; but did not
proceed far, ere the wind blew so violently as to compel us to put
ashore. After a delay of about four hours, we "put to sea" again; and
the wind gradually abating as we proceeded, we encamped in the evening
nearly opposite to McIntosh's Island.
This island, some years ago, presented an extensive surface of land
covered with wood: there is not now a vestige of land to be seen; the
spot where it existed being only known to voyagers by a shoal which is
visible at low water. But not only have the islands been swept away,
but the mainland along the west end of the lake seems gradually being
encroached upon and engulphed by the waves; an undeniable proof of
which is, that the old post of Norway House, which formerly stood at a
considerable distance from the water's edge, is now close to it, and
the burial-ground is nearly all submerged.
We arrived at the foot of Grand Rapid late on the 29th of July, and
passed the portage on the 30th, assisted by the natives--Sauteux,
Crees, and half-breeds. These live luxuriously on sturgeon, with
little toil. Among them I observed two or three old Canadians, who
could scarcely be distinguished from the natives by language, manners,
or dress; such persons, when young, having formed an attachment to
some of the Indian young women, betake themselves to their half-savage
mode of life, and very soon cannot be persuaded to quit it.
We arrived on the 5th of August at Rivière du Pas, where an old
Canadian, M. Constant, had fixed his abode, who appeared to have
an abundance of the necessaries of life, and a large family of
half-Indians, who seemed to claim him as their sire. We breakfasted
sumptuously on fish and fowl, and no charge was made; but a gratuity
of tea, tobacco, or sugar is always given; so that M. Constant loses
nothing by his considerate attentions to his visitors.
We reached Cumberland House on the 8th. Here I was cheered by the
sight of extensive corn-fields, horned cattle, pigs and poultry, which
gave the place more the appearance of a farm in the civilized world,
than of a trading post in the far North-West; and I could not help
envying the happy lot of its tenant, and contrasting it with my own,
which led me to the wilds of New Caledonia--to fare like a dog,
without knowing how long my exile might be protracted.
We arrived at the post of Isle à la Crosse, where we were detained a
day in consequence of bad weather. This post is also surrounded by
cultivated fields, and I observed a few cattle; but the voice of the
grunter was not heard.
The Indians who frequent this post are chiefly Chippeweyans, with a
few families of Crees. The former differ in features, language, and
manners from any I had yet seen. Their face is of a peculiar mould,
broad; the cheekbone remarkably prominent, chin small, mouth wide,
with thick lips, the upper covered with beard; the body strongly built
and muscular. They appear destitute of the amiable qualities which
characterise the Crees. Whenever we met any of them on our route, and
asked for fish or meat, "Budt hoola,"[1] was the invariable answer;
yet no Indians were ever more importunate than they in begging for
tobacco. On the contrary, when we fell in with Crees, they allowed
us to help ourselves freely, and were delighted to see us do so,
receiving thankfully whatever we gave them in return. The features of
the Crees are not so strongly marked as those of the Sauteux, although
they are a kindred people; yet they are as easily distinguishable from
each other, as an Englishman from a Frenchman.
[1] There is none.
We left Isle à la Crosse on the 12th, and without meeting with any
adventure worthy of notice, reached the end of Portage la Loche
about two o'clock P.M. of the following day, with canoe and baggage.
In this, as in every other part of their territories, the Company
use boats for the transport of property; but by a very judicious
arrangement, much time and labour are saved at this portage, which is
said to be twelve miles in length. Boats are placed at the upper and
lower ends, so that the men have only to carry across the property,
which, in truth, of itself is a sufficiently laborious operation for
human beings. The people from the district of McKenzie's River come
thus far with their returns, and receive their outfit in boats manned
by half-breeds, who are hired at Red River for the trip.
The prospect which the surrounding country presents from the upper
end of the portage is very striking; and the more so from the sudden
manner in which it bursts upon the view. You suddenly arrive at the
summit of a remarkably steep hill, where, on looking around, the first
object that attracts attention is a beautiful green hill standing on
the opposite side of the deep glen, through which the clear Water
River flows, forming the most prominent feature of an extensive range,
cut up by deep ravines, whose sides are clothed with wood, presenting
already all the beautiful variety of their autumnal hues; while,
at intervals, a glimpse was caught of the river meandering through
the valley. In former times these hills were covered with herds of
buffaloes, but not one is to be seen now.
We once more proceeded down the stream, and arrived at Athabasca on
the 21st of August, where we found Dr. King, who had been delayed some
days repairing his boats; Capt. Back having proceeded onwards in a
light canoe to fix on a winter residence.
Fort Chippeweyan was, in the time of the North-West Company, next in
importance to Fort William. Besides having several detached posts
depending immediately upon itself, and carrying on a very extensive
trade with the Chippeweyans, (the best hunters in the Indian country,)
it served as depôt for the districts of McKenzie's River, and Peace
River.
The trade of this district, although it bears no comparison to that of
former times, is yet pretty extensive. It is still the depôt for Peace
River, and commands the trade with the Chippeweyans. Trade is carried
on in this quarter solely by barter, which secures the Company from
loss, and is apparently attended with no inconvenience to the natives,
who used formerly to take their supplies on credit.
Beaver is the standard according to which all other furs are rated; so
many martens, so many foxes, &c., equal to one beaver. The trader, on
receiving the Indian's hunt, proceeds to reckon it up according to
this rule, giving the Indian a quill for each beaver; these quills are
again exchanged at the counter for whatever articles he wants. The
people of this post subsist entirely on the produce of the country,
fish, flesh, and fowl, of which there is the greatest abundance. Both
soil and climate are said to be unfavourable to the cultivation of
grain or vegetables; the attempt is made, however, and sometimes with
success.
I took my departure from Athabasca on the 24th of August, accompanied
by Mr. Charles Ross, who had passed the summer there as _locum
tenens_, and was now proceeding to assume the charge of his own post,
Fort Vermillion, where we arrived on the 1st of September.
This post is agreeably situated on the right bank of Peace River,
having the river in front, and boundless prairies in the rear. The
Indians attached to it are designated Beaver Indians, and their
language is said to have some affinity to the Chippeweyan. This is,
however, the only point of resemblance between them. The Beavers are
a more diminutive race than the Chippeweyans, and their features bear
a greater resemblance to those of the Crees. They are allowed to be
generous, hospitable and brave; and are distinguished for their strict
adherence to truth.
Most Indians boast of the murder of white men as a glorious exploit;
these, on the contrary, glory in never having shed the blood of one,
although they often imbrue their hands in the blood of their kindred;
being very apt to quarrel among themselves, chiefly on account of
their gallantry. When an illicit amour is detected, the consequence is
frequently fatal to one of the parties; but the unmarried youth, of
both sexes, are generally under no restraint whatever.
I bade adieu to Mr. Ross, a warm-hearted Gael, on the 3d, and arrived
at Fort Dunvegan on the 10th of September, then under the charge of
Mr. McIntosh, chief factor, where I met with a Highland welcome, and
passed the time most agreeably in the company of a well educated
gentleman. The Indians here are of the same tribe as those of Fort
Vermillion, but are not guiltless of the blood of the whites. This
post is also surrounded by prairies. A large farm is cultivated,
yielding in favourable seasons a variety of vegetables and grain: but
the crops are subject to injury from frost; sometimes are altogether
destroyed. When the wind blows for some time from the west, it cools
in its passage across the glaciers of the Rocky Mountains, to such
a degree, that the change of temperature caused by it is not only
severely felt in the vicinity of the mountains, but at a great
distance from them, as far even as Red River.
From the great age attained by many of the retired servants of the
Company, who pass their lives in this country, the salubrity of the
climate may fairly be inferred. Meeting a brigade of small canoes
between Fort Vermillion and this place, and observing an old man with
a white head and wrinkled face, sitting in the centre of one of them,
I made up to him, and after saluting him _à la Française_, presented
him with a piece of tobacco--the Indian letter of introduction. I
inquired of him how long it was since he had left home.
"Sixty-two years, Monsieur," was the reply; and as the canoes
assembled around us, he pointed out to me his sons, and his sons'
sons, to the third and fourth generation.
I heard of no malady which the white inhabitants are liable to, except
the goîtres; caused, it is presumed, in part by the use of snow-water,
and in part by the use of the river-water, which is strongly
impregnated with clay, so much so, as sometimes to resemble a solution
of the earth itself.