Various Royalties have arrived, and one meets Royal carriages, escorts,
and strong squads of police at every turn. It is warm and lovely
to-day--so was yesterday. W., Francis and I drove out to Sheen, where W.
plays tennis in Lord F.'s private court. I wandered about under the
trees, and Francis sailed his boat in the pond and was quite happy. It
is such a rest to get a few hours in the country when one is going out
all the time as we are here--and above all not to have to talk. We had a
remarkable entertainment last night, given by the Hawaiian Secretary
(who is a German-American) for his Queen, of the Sandwich Islands. We
arrived in due time, I rather protesting.
There was a large reception after dinner and the mistress of the house
asked us if we wouldn't stand by the Queen and make a sort of cercle,
and a funny contrast we made--Mrs. P. beautifully dressed in white satin
and lace, Lady R. with splendid jewels, I wore my pink brocade and old
Venetian lace. It really was too absurd. I talked a little to the
Princess, who is intelligent enough. The Queen is a great stickler for
etiquette, and insisted upon the same honours as any other Royalties, an
escort of _Life Guards_;--wouldn't accept any less distinguished escort.
#London#,
June 18, 1887.
We have had rather an amusing afternoon. I think I wrote you that we
wanted to leave Westminster Abbey the minute the ceremony was over, get
through the line of troops, and back to a friend's house in Piccadilly
to see the cortege--we being Mrs. Phelps and I. Our respective husbands
were most discouraging (as men always are), but we dined last night with
Knowles to meet the Duke of Cambridge, and I told His Royal Highness
what we wanted to do, and asked him if he could help us. After some
little discussion he said he would advise us to go directly to Sir
Charles Warren (Chief of Police) and see what he could arrange for us.
Again our husbands remonstrated, "Warren was overrun with applications
of all kinds, worked to death, and it was very unreasonable," but backed
by the Duke we determined to try.
I told His Royal Highness I should put on my most becoming Paris bonnet
and beard the lion in his den. He said, "Quite right, my dear, a man is
always flattered when a woman tries to please him," so accordingly about
3 Mrs. Phelps and I started for Scotland Yard. George was rather
surprised when I gave the order. We drove through one or two courts and
were stopped once by a huge policeman, who let us go on when we said it
was the French Ambassadress. We were shown at once into Sir Charles's
room, and I must say he was charming, most kind and courteous. We had
arranged beforehand that I was to be spokeswoman, and I went at once to
the point. He was sitting at his table with letters and papers and
telegrams, the telegraph ticking all the time, despatches and telegrams
being brought in, and as busy a man as I ever saw. He immediately sent
for maps of the route, distribution of the troops, etc., and said he
thought he could manage it. We must have a light carriage (of course we
must go to the Abbey in state in the gala coach) waiting at the Poets'
Corner, as near the door as it can get; he will send us a pass to break
through the lines, and will have three or four policemen waiting for us
at the corner of Piccadilly and one of the smaller streets to pass us
through the crowd. We really didn't derange him very much. The whole
conversation lasted about ten minutes, and he was rather amused at this
sudden appearance of the two "femmes du monde" in his "milieu" of
clerks, policemen, telegraph boys, type-writers and a hurrying, bustling
crowd of employes of all kinds. We returned triumphant to our respective
houses.
We had a fine reception last night at the Austrian Embassy in honour of
Prince Rudolph. We arrived late, having dined out. The Prince is very
good-looking, slight, elegant figure, and charming manners and smile.
All the world was there--quantities of pretty women, and pretty
dresses--the Countess Karolyi always the handsomest.
#London#,
June 20, 1887.
London is really a sight to-day, the streets gay with flags, draperies,
stands, illuminations, and quantities of people gaping all day long. I
went for a drive with Mary Sheridan, daughter of Mr. Motley, late
Minister from the United States to the Court of St. James. We didn't
attempt going down Piccadilly, as we saw what a dense crowd and block
there was, so we crossed to Constitution Hill. We went all round
Westminster Abbey; I wanted to see the Poets' Corner where we are to go
in to-morrow, and the House of Commons stand where she is to be with her
sister. We were blocked for a quarter of an hour standing close to the
Embankment. Some of the mottoes are very nice. I like the humble ones
best, "God bless our Queen." We were a long time getting back to the
Embassy, Piccadilly almost impassable. It was amusing, as everyone was
arranging their balconies, and we recognised various friends standing at
windows, and on balconies directing the arrangement of chairs, plants,
flags, etc. After dinner W. took his cigar and we walked about a little
in Piccadilly. Some of the illuminations had already begun and the crowd
was dense, but no jostling or roughs, everyone good-humoured and wildly
interested in the decorations. London is transformed for the moment and
looks like a great continental city, all lights and flags and an "air de
fete." We didn't stay out very late, as we have a long day before us
to-morrow. They say the Queen is well, but rather "emue" and a little
nervous, which must be expected. I shall wear white, the only objection
to that being that jewels won't show out, as they would on a darker
colour.
_To H. L. K._
#Albert Gate, London#,
June 22, 1887.
I am still exhausted, Dear, with the visions of a brilliant, motley,
moving crowd, when I shut my eyes. Yesterday was beautiful, a glorious
summer day. I was waked up at 6.30 by the dull rumble of carriages, and
people already on the move. I thought they must have forgotten to call
me, but the house was still wrapped in slumber, and though it was only
6.30 the Park was full of carriages, men in uniform and women in full
dress. We started at 9.30 in the gala carriage, W. in uniform, and were
followed by a second carriage, landau, the men equally in gala. We
remained blocked for a long time in Piccadilly, it didn't seem possible
to get on; distracted policemen, mounted and on foot, and officers did
what they could, but there we remained, curiously enough all the
Ambassadors' carriages together. Finally an order was given to let the
Ambassadors' carriages pass, and we got on a little. Various Court
carriages passed us--one so pretty with the three little daughters of
the Duke of Edinburgh all in white with straw hats, and long white
feathers, sitting on the back seat, and smiling and bowing, and looking
quite charming with their fair hair streaming down their backs. They had
an equerry in uniform with them on the front seat. Once past St. James's
Street we went quickly enough thro' long lines of soldiers, and behind
them quantities of people waiting patiently to see the great show. We
went into the Abbey at the Poets' Corner, where an entrance was reserved
for the Corps Diplomatique and Court functionaries. It was a fine sight;
tier upon tier of seats covered with red cloth and filled with men in
uniform, and women in handsome dresses. The Peers and Peeresses sat just
below us and looked very well; as it was Collar Day, all the Garter men
wore their white shoulder-knots, which were most effective. It was very
difficult to distinguish people, the building is so enormous, but as we
were close to the dais we saw all the Royalties perfectly. At last
various members of the Royal Family came in, and the first Sovereign to
enter was Her Majesty of the Sandwich Islands with her cortege; then
came quickly the King of the Belgians, King of Denmark, various other
Princes, and they all took their places on a platform facing the Queen's
dais. We waited some time, and then came a flourish of trumpets which
announced the Queen's arrival. It was most interesting to see her come
up the aisle--quite alone in front--her three sons, Wales, Edinburgh,
and Connaught, just behind her. She was dressed in black with silver
embroidery, a white lace bonnet with feathers, and lace caught back by
diamond pins. As she reached the dais she stepped on it quite alone, and
advancing to the front made a pretty curtsey to the assembled Royalties.
Then came a long procession of family Princes, headed by the Prince of
Wales and the German Crown Prince, who looked magnificent in his white
uniform, and the Princess of Wales and the German Crown Princess. They
all passed before the Queen, and it was most striking to see her seated
there, a quiet figure dressed in black, very composed and smiling, yet
"emue" too, as the long line of children and grandchildren representing
all Europe passed to do her homage. It was a gorgeous crowd of uniforms,
orders, jewels, and really _glittering_ garments of all kinds; but every
eye was fixed on the central figure. The service began at once and was
impressive. The Prince Consort's "Te Deum" sounded magnificent with
organ and full band. I must own to considerable distraction during the
service, as I was quite taken up with looking at everything. When the
ceremony was over--or nearly--we started at once, found our carriage
(ordinary landau) at the Poets' Corner again, and drove quickly around
by Belgravia and Albert Gate (breaking the lines of troops once or
twice, but with no difficulty, as orders had been given), to the corner
of Hamilton Place and Piccadilly. There we had to leave the carriage,
but it was merely a few steps to my friend's house where we were to see
the procession pass; however we should never have got there if we hadn't
found the 4 gigantic policemen who were waiting for us, and who
deposited us rather pulled about, but intact, at the door. We found the
balcony prettily decorated and filled with people, and had an excellent
view of the procession. The Queen's carriage was handsome, an open
landau red and gold, with six cream-coloured horses with red and gold
trappings, and running footmen. She was alone on the back seat; the
Princesses of Wales and Germany on the front seat. The escort of Princes
was very brilliant. The Prince of Wales looked well on a fine horse, and
the German Crown Prince superb, towering over everyone else, and his
helmet shining in the bright sunlight. The cheering was tremendous as
the Queen passed, and one felt it was absolutely genuine (nothing
commande), her people (I always like that phrase so much, "My people,"
when she uses it in a speech or proclamation) really delighted to have
her still with them. Another who also was much cheered was Princess Mary
of Teck. They love her, and she looked so happy and smiling as she
acknowledged the salutation. She has such a gracious manner always to
everyone--never seems bored. However I must say that for the Prince of
Wales; no matter what the function is (and he must be bored very often)
he never looks it, but always does graciously, and as if he liked it,
whatever he undertakes. There was a very substantial lunch provided for
us at Lady Borthwick's, and as soon as the cortege disappeared I
clamoured for something to eat, as it was nearly 3.30, and I had had
nothing to eat but my early cup of tea and piece of toast about 8.30. I
went straight back to the Embassy after luncheon--even then, at 4
o'clock, we had to go at a foot's pace thro' the crowd--and I didn't
stir again all the afternoon, but I had visitors at tea-time, as of
course the windows and balconies giving on the Park were most
attractive. There were thousands of people still in the Park, and Royal
carriages and escorts coming and going; music, flags, and a general
impression of movement and colour everywhere.
[Illustration: Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the State
Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887.
From a photograph copyright, by Hughes & Mullins, Ryde, England.]
In the evening we started at 10 for the Palace, and they thought there
would be such a crowd that we had a mounted policeman, but we had no
trouble. Everyone made way for the carriage, though, of course, the
general traffic was stopped, and everybody (including our own
secretaries, who weren't invited to the Palace, merely the "chefs de
mission") in the middle of the streets, looking at the illuminations.
There was great confusion at the Palace--dinners still going on and
servants hurrying backward and forward with dishes, and piles of plates
on the floor as we passed through the long corridor. We had to pass
through the great hall where the numerous "suites" were dining--and we
naturally hesitated a moment as they were still at table--but Colonel
Byng came forward and ushered us upstairs, and into one of the large
rooms. There were very few people--the "chefs de mission," the Nunzio
who had come expressly, Lord and Lady Salisbury, and Lord C., Indian
Secretary (as there were many Indian Princes). We waited nearly an hour
and were then summoned to the ball-room, where the Queen and Court were
assembled. The Queen was standing, dressed just as she always is for a
Drawing-room, with her small diamond crown and veil, and again the
background of Princes and uniforms made a striking contrast to the one
black-robed figure. The Prince of Wales stood a little behind, on her
right, also Lord Lathom (Lord Chamberlain). We all passed before her,
two by two, with our husbands, and she said a few words to each one, but
no real conversation; it was evidently an effort, and we felt we must
not stay a moment longer than necessary. I talked to one or two people
while the others were passing. The German Crown Princess came over and
talked to us. I asked her if the Queen was very tired. She said not
nearly as much as she expected, it was more the anticipation of the day
that had made her nervous, that she was very agitated when she started,
but that wore off, and she was not very tired this evening, and very
happy, as were all her children, I said, "You might add her people,
Madam, for I never saw such a splendid outburst of loyalty." The Crown
Princess herself is perfectly delightful, so clever and cultivated, and
so easy, with such beautiful, clear, smiling eyes. Do you remember how
much I admired her in Rome the first time I met her? She is always so
kind to us. W. loves to talk to her; they don't always agree, but she
quite understands people having their own opinions, rather prefers it, I
think, as she must necessarily be so often thrown with people who never
venture to disagree with her. The Crown Prince of Sweden also came and
recalled himself to me, and the Duc d'Aoste. The Queen remained about an
hour; then the Royal party moved off in procession, and we got our
carriages as quickly as we could. I have written you a volume (but you
must say that doesn't happen often from my lazy pen, but I felt I must
write at once, or I should never have the courage). Please send the
letter to the family in America. I am dead tired, and my eyes shutting
by themselves.
#London#, June 22, 1887
We went this afternoon with the Florians, Comte de Florian, Secretary of
the Embassy, and Comtesse de Florian, Francis, Baroness Hilda Deichmann
and her children and some of the Embassy men, to the children's fete in
Hyde Park. It was very pretty, and very well arranged; 30,000 children
from all parts of London, and amusements, food, and jubilee mugs
provided for all. We got there a little after 3, and it was warm and
fatiguing standing and walking about. There were various refreshment
tents for the "quality committee," etc., and the children got iced cream
and cakes to their hearts' content, also each a jubilee mug with which
they were much pleased. The Prince and Princess of Wales, with some of
the foreign Princes, came about 4 (and horribly bored the foreigners
looked--naturally). We stood and walked about until 6, when the Queen
arrived. Her procession was rather pretty, just a troop of mounted
police, then the Life Guards, the Indian contingent, and the Queen in an
open carriage with 4 horses, the postilions in black, and two Highland
servants in costume behind. The Crown Princess of Germany, Princess
Christian, and Duke of Edinburgh in the carriage with her; and the Duke
of Cambridge (Ranger of the Park) riding at the portiere. Several Royal
carriages followed, all the women in smart clothes, and the men in
uniform, as the Queen was to make her formal Jubilee entree into Windsor
on leaving London after the fete. There was such a press and jostling
when the Queen came--even the women pushing and struggling to get to the
front, that I should have been nearly crushed with the two children (I
had Hilda and Francis with me) if Prince Hermann of Saxe-Weimar hadn't
recognised me and come to my rescue. He is very tall and broad, so he
made way for me, put the children in front, and then stood behind me so
that no one could get at me. I must say it was a fine struggle, the
ladies used their arms valiantly. A small slight woman would have had no
show at all. The Queen didn't get out of her carriage. The Prince stood
bareheaded at the carriage door all the time the Queen was there, and
various people were brought up and presented to her. I found plenty of
people to talk to, among others the German Crown Prince, who they say is
in a very bad way; he doesn't look changed, perhaps a little thinner,
but the voice has gone. He spoke in a whisper. He noticed the children,
said Francis was very like his father. I told him Hilda was a little
compatriote, and named her to him. He knows her parents well. The Queen
was much cheered as she drove off; then there were more cheers for the
Prince, who acknowledged them most graciously, as he does always. We had
again rather a struggle to get through the crowd and across to the
Embassy, and then at 6.30 I had some tea, got into a tea-gown, and
refused to move again. W. tried to entice me to the Foreign Office where
there was a big reception, but I was utterly incapable of another word
(the heat always tries me so); so he departed sadly, but didn't stay
long--merely showed himself. He said the crowd was awful, and Lord
Cranborne, the son of the house, in a wild state on the stairs, with his
supper list, as he couldn't find half the people. W. told him not to
worry about us, as he was going home, and I was in bed.
[Illustration: The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the Uniform
Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration, London June, 1887
From a photograph by Loescher & Petsch Berlin]
_To H. L. K._
#London#,
June 24, 1887.
Yesterday I had rather a quiet day, I was still so dead tired after the
children's fete. Jean and I drove about in the afternoon. She wanted to
see the "Black Queen," as the Queen of the Sandwich Islands is called,
and we crossed her once or twice driving in the Park. It does look funny
to see her sitting up in the Royal carriage with red liveries. We had a
beautiful ball last night, given by Lord and Lady Rosebery at Lansdowne
House for all the Royalties. The House was beautifully arranged; the
ballroom panelled half way up the wall with red roses and green leaves.
I danced a quadrille with the King of Greece, who is easy and talks a
great deal; he speaks English perfectly well. He asked about the
Schuylers, and spoke most warmly of them--said Schuyler was one of the
few perfectly intelligent men he had ever met, "knew everything about
everything," I must write it to them. The supper was very well arranged,
small tables of eight or ten. Almost all the Royalties were there, but
not the Hawaiian Queen. I asked our host why he hadn't invited Queen
Kapiolani; but he said he really couldn't. The ball was small, and Lady
Rosebery left out many of her friends, who naturally were not pleased.
W. actually stayed to supper--I was so surprised, as he hates it.
June 24, 1887.
This afternoon all the swells went to Ranelagh to see a polo match, but
I thought I would reserve myself for the Palace Ball. The Queen didn't
appear, but we had two others, the Queen of the Belgians, and always
Kapiolani. It was badly managed at first, the result being that when the
Court came we had a crowd of people, officers, pages, etc., about four
deep in front of us, so that we could neither see nor be seen, nor
hardly move. When the first "quadrille d'honneur" was being danced we
saw nothing, so after a consultation we all left the ball-room. Then
there were various "pourparlers," and they finally did what they should
have done at first, enlarged the circle, so that we were out of the
crowd and near the Court. There was also a great rush at supper, so that
they had to shut one door for a moment. I didn't see many people to talk
to, but of course it was very difficult. The Grand Duchess Serge looked
beautiful, with splendid emeralds (she is the daughter of Princess
Alice), and the Duchesse de Braganza (daughter of the Comte de Paris)
was charming, so very high-bred, tall and slight, with a pretty little
dark head. I always find the Princess of Wales the most distinguished
looking. She stands out everywhere. Our "Doyenne," Countess Karolyi, was
superb--also with magnificent jewels. The Indian Princes made a great
show, of course, with their silk, heavily embroidered tuniques, and the
quantities of jewels, but they are not often well cut, nor well set, and
they themselves are certainly off color--they look barbarians, and have
such false faces--I wouldn't trust one of them.
#London#,
July 3, 1887.
It is delicious summer weather now, and yesterday we went to Buckingham
Palace to see the Queen review the Volunteers. I wore for the first time
my Jubilee Medal. It came Friday with a note from the Duchess of
Roxburghe saying the Queen hoped I would wear it as a souvenir of her
Jubilee. It is a plain little silver medal about the size of a
two-shilling piece, with the Queen's head on one side and an inscription
on the other, fastened to a bow of blue and white ribbon. We three
Ambassadresses are the only women of the Corps Diplomatique that have
it. All the Queen's household have it, Duchesses of Bedford, Buccleuch,
Roxburghe, etc. The Princesses, also, of course, but theirs are in gold.
It was most amusing waiting in the courtyard of the Palace seeing
everyone arrive. All the Royalties took up their positions at the foot
of the Queen's tribune, and waited for her. Our tribune was on one side
of hers, and one for the Indian Princes opposite. The Volunteers looked
and passed very well; as it was Saturday afternoon and the shops in
London are closed early always Saturday, all the various butchers,
bakers, and candle-stick-makers could leave their shops and parade, and
extremely well some of them looked; stout, heavy men moving quite
lightly and at ease in their stiff uniforms. It was pretty to see the
various Princes break away from their places on the Duke of Cambridge's
staff and ride ahead of the various regiments of which they are honorary
colonels. The Prince of Wales looked well on his handsome chestnut,
which is perfectly trained and steps beautifully. The Duke of Connaught
is a handsome soldier. We were a long time getting away, but as we had
no dinner-party it wasn't of any consequence. It was such a pleasure not
to put on a low bodice and diamonds. I always grumble about putting on
my diadem--as a rule I never wear anything in my hair, not even feathers
(except at Court), and the diadem is heavy. After dinner W. and I went
for a drive along the Thames Embankment--our favourite recreation after
a long, hot day. There are still people about, and a general air of
festivity.
#London#,
July 21, 1887.