the French streak, pale oval faces, and dark eyes and hair (not unlike
the Stuarts, who have always a foreign look); then the true British,
more and more accentuated down to the present Earl. They have also in
one of the halls the block on which the Lord Derby knelt who was
beheaded in 1631.
The sportsmen arrived about tea-time, apparently neither cold nor tired,
and having had a fine shoot.
New Year's Day, 1886.
We are leaving this afternoon for Luton, Mme. de Falbe's place, where
there is a ball and cotillon to-night. We were to go and join the
shooters yesterday, but it was rainy and cold, and the ladies didn't
care to go out. The talk at luncheon was pleasant; Froude is brilliant
and easy. His American experiences and stories were amusing, but I told
him he mustn't take the very eccentric ladies and gentlemen whom he had
encountered as specimens of Americans. I didn't know any such people,
that really most of us were quite quiet and ordinary, and like everybody
else. Lord Derby rather urged him on, and was amused at our perfectly
amicable discussion. We drove over to Croxteth, Lord Sefton's place,
after lunch. The park is fine and they have capital shooting. Our
evening was quiet, and we broke up early, as they always have a midnight
service in the chapel on New Year's eve for the family and servants and
any of the guests who like to attend. We left the drawing-room at 10.30,
so that the servants might put out the lights, finish their work, etc.,
and also to have time to get out of our low dresses and jewels. A little
before 12 Lady Margaret Cecil (Lady Derby's daughter by her first
husband, Lord Salisbury) came for us and we went to the chapel. I had
put on a dark cloth dress and jacket, nothing on my head. The chapel was
full, all the servants (including my French maid) and household. Lady
Margaret, looking like a saint in her plain black dress, and beautiful
earnest expression, sat at the little organ, and everybody, gardeners,
keepers, coachmen, cooks, housemaids, joined in the singing. It was very
solemn and impressive. At the end of the service we all went out first,
and then Lady Margaret and her brother Lord Lionel stood at the head of
the stairs and shook hands with all the guests, and all the servants,
wishing all a "Happy New Year." It was a nice beginning of the New Year.
Lord Derby hopes our next one will be also in England and at Knowsley,
but everything is so uncertain, and of such short duration in our
country (especially Cabinets) that we can hardly look forward a year.
#Luton#,
January 3, 1886.
Our journey yesterday from Knowsley was not very long, and some of the
country all about Matlock, in Derbyshire, quite wild and lovely. Our
host here is M. de Falbe, Danish Minister, who married Mrs. Leigh, owner
of this charming place. We found the house party, mostly young,
assembled in the morning-room with tea, the ladies all, as usual, in
very dressy tea-gowns. I can't quite get used to that fashion, though I
see it is very practical in the country at this season. Everyone goes
out (in all weathers generally) from luncheon till tea-time, and of
course one must get out of short skirts and muddy boots before coming
down to the drawing-room. We went up early to dress, as Mme. de Falbe
wanted to dine precisely at 8, on account of the ball afterwards. The
house is large, with endless corners and corridors, fine drawing-rooms,
library, and a large chapel with a fine organ. The dinner was handsome
and very well arranged, five round tables, and quantities of silver,
flowers, servants, etc. About 10.30 the company began to arrive, many
county neighbours, Salisburys, Lyttons, Caledons, etc., bringing their
house parties with them. We had a very pretty cotillon. At the end the
children's pony came in carrying two big baskets filled with presents.
The poor little thing was very gentle, but was evidently afraid of
slipping on the parquet floor.
[Illustration: The Late Earl of Derby
From a photograph by Franz Baum, London]
Sunday, 3d.
To-day has been charming; first the service in the house chapel, very
good organ music--Mme. de Falbe is musical and arranges everything.
After breakfast they organized a paper hunt for the "jeunesse" in the
park, and the older people walked about. The rendezvous was the dairy--a
model one, quite delightful with tiles, and creepers running along the
walls and peeping everywhere in at the windows. One by one the young
people assembled, flushed and exhausted with running, and all clamouring
for tea. Comte Jacques de Pourtales (one of our Secretaries), a young
officer of the Blues, and Forbes, Mme. de Falbe's son-in-law, were the
hares and got in some time before the hounds. After tea Falbe took me
over to the stables, where there were plenty of horses, and also to the
"vacherie," which was perfect. They have 40 small Alderney cows, all the
same breed and colour, pretty little beasts, and so wonderfully clean,
kept like pet dogs.
The dinner and evening was most lively, choruses, banjos (which is a
favourite instrument in English houses), and every kind of game,
including musical chairs--M. de Falbe at the piano. I think everyone
played except the Falbes and ourselves. W. and Falbe retired afterwards
to the smoking-room, and were deep in foreign politics. Falbe is a
perfect type of the diplomatist, tall, good-looking, and a charming,
courteous manner. We ladies went off about 11, and an hour later we
heard the most unearthly noises in the house. All the men parading the
corridors with banjos, bells, gongs, etc., and singing (if singing it
can be called) at the top of their voices. They stopped at every door to
serenade. The party breaks up to-morrow, and we all go back to London.
_To G. K. S._
#London#,
Sunday, January 17, 1886.
We had a musical dinner last night for Miss Griswold and Albanesi, and
they sang and played all the evening. Albanesi has a charming, delicate
touch, and plays with all the Italian brio. He told me--what surprised
me--that he was always frightfully nervous when playing in public, and
much preoccupied with the "composition de la salle"--if he saw one or
two unsympathetic faces he had at once a disagreeable sensation!
Gertrude Griswold has always the same lovely voice with a beautiful
clear ring in it, and sings most artistically.
This morning we have been to church at St. Paul's. It is a fine service,
a splendid organ, and very good well-trained choir--but not at all
solemn. I felt as if I was in one of the great Catholic cathedrals in
Italy. People were coming and going all the time, and walking about the
church. It is so enormous that it is quite a walk from the big doors to
the small (comparatively) enclosed space where the congregation
assembles.
I have been at home all the afternoon receiving--men only, which is a
regular London custom. Adams came in at tea-time. He and W. always like
to have a good talk over old times. They were at school and college
together, and Adams, when he was Charge d'Affaires at the British
Embassy, used to have all sorts of questions to treat with W., who was
then Ministre des Affaires Etrangeres in Paris. They always began their
conversations in French, and then fell into English, which of course
they had always spoken together.
To-night we have a small dinner for Rustem Pacha, and I have asked one
or two people in the evening. I should like to be at home always on
Sunday night, as we did in the Champs Elysees, but they tell me no
English will come. Many of them don't go out on Sunday night, and don't
take their horses out, and give servants a rest. I asked Lady A., who is
very mondaine, if she would come to dinner to meet a few colleagues, and
she said--"Dear Mme. Waddington, let me come another night; I never take
out my carriage and servants on Sunday."
Jean Gordon Gumming is very much exercised over what she calls my French
ways, and constantly tells me people don't do such and such things in
England; but I always tell her the French Embassy is _not_ England;
however, she is rather worried over me, and finds me un-English (which
is not surprising) and unconventional, which is also not surprising,
considering my nationality.
_To H. L. K._
January 21, 1886.
We have had a great function to-day, the Queen opened Parliament. We all
went in gala, Countess D'A. and P. with us, the men in uniform, I in red
satin, low, with diamonds and feathers. The road was lined with
policemen and mounted soldiers in lieu of infantry, as there would have
been with us. As we passed through the Horse-Guards the trumpeters
saluted. We went at once into the great hall of the Lords', which was a
fine sight. All the peers were there in their scarlet robes trimmed with
white fur, and the women in low dresses, diamonds, and feathers
(feathers play a great part in all English toilettes). The Judges also
were in full dress, with wigs and gowns. About 1.30 the Princes began to
arrive, Prince of Wales, Dukes of Edinburgh, Connaught, and Cambridge
all also in scarlet robes with bands of ermine and gold, and the collar
of the Garter. We sat close to the Throne (Countess Karolyi didn't come,
so I was Doyenne), then Madame de Staal and the Duchesses Bedford,
Hamilton, Sutherland, and others. The Prince of Wales stood next to me
some time, presenting the Duke of Connaught, whom I had not seen, and
talked pleasantly enough, explaining various things to me; also said he
was rather shy at taking his seat on the raised platform until the last
moment. He had an arm-chair on the right of the Throne. I asked him for
whom the other arm-chair was and he said it was his father's, had never
been used since his death, and showed me the Saxon arms on it. The three
brothers, Wales, Edinburgh, and Connaught, remained standing together.
The other Princes, Christian, Duke of Teck, and Henry of Battenberg,
were opposite to us; Battenberg, who has a slight, stylish figure,
looking handsome in British Volunteer Uniform (dark green) with the
collar of the Garter. Teck looks badly, older and thinner. He must have
been a very handsome man (which, by the way, he tells one frequently).
When Prince Alexander of Battenberg was at one of the Court balls
everyone was talking about him and saying what a magnificent man he was.
Teck, who was dancing a quadrille with me, was much put out, and said to
me, "Do you really find Battenberg so very handsome? It is a pity you
didn't know me when I was his age; I was much handsomer," and appealed
to Count D., Austrian Ambassador, an old friend and "compagnon d'armes,"
to support his statement, which I must say he did most warmly, and one
can quite see it.
All the Ambassadors and men of the Corps Diplomatique faced us--the
English women were upstairs. About 2.30 (we had been there since 1.30)
we heard a trumpet call, and all the company stood up. We women dropped
our cloaks, and the Prince took his place standing on the dais.
Presently appeared the Garter King-at-Arms and various officers of the
household. The Duke of Portland stood on the right of the Throne holding
a Royal crown on a cushion. Lord Salisbury (Premier) carried a large
sword with a double handle, and then came the Queen followed by Princess
Beatrice and Princes Eddie and George of Wales. The Queen was dressed in
black satin with a long train, lined and trimmed with ermine, quantities
of diamonds on her neck and corsage, the blue ribbon of the Garter, and
a regular closed crown of diamonds, and white veil. As she came in the
Prince of Wales advanced, touched the ground with one knee, kissed her
hand, and led her to the Throne. He did his part most easily and
gracefully, and didn't look at all shy. The Queen's train was carried by
Sir Henry Ponsonby and two pages in red and gold. Princess Beatrice and
the Duchess of Buccleuch (Mistress of the Robes) stood behind the Queen
on her right, Princes Eddie and George on her left, Lord Salisbury,
Halsbury, Lathom, and some others were also on the dais. As soon as the
Queen was settled on her Throne she bowed to us all right and left. We
made deep curtseys, and then she made a sign that we were to sit down.
There was a few moments' silence while they went to summon the Commons.
Then one heard a noise of scrambling and racing in the corridors--and
they appeared; the Speaker, looking very well in his wig and gown, came
first, fairly shot into the hall like a bomb by the impatient crowd
behind him. Then the Lord Chancellor, asking the Queen's permission,
read her speech in a clear, distinct voice, so that one heard every
word. It was very short, and as soon as it was over the Queen went away
with the same ceremony as when she came. When she got to the foot of the
dais she made a very pretty half curtsey. The Princes left directly
afterwards--we too. The crowd in the street was tremendous, everyone
always is anxious to see the Queen, and much excited over the
cream-coloured Hanoverian horses which she uses when she goes anywhere
in semi-state. As they only go out very seldom it is rather a
responsibility for the Master of the Horse to see that they are
perfectly quiet.
#Windsor#, March 8, 1886.
We are at Windsor for the second time to dine and sleep, and we are
"Doyens" now, so have a sweller apartment in one of the towers--the
walls so thick that they make splendid deep window recesses (and a
piano). We had asked an audience of Princess Beatrice, who received us
before dinner about 7. I wore my brown velvet in which I had come down,
and we found her in a small salon with a piano and pretty pictures and
bibelots about. She was in an ordinary red costume, and was rather cold
and shy at first, but thawed when Battenberg appeared. He has a
delightful easy way, that sort of charm that so many Poles have. The
party was a small one--no other diplomats but Mr. and Mrs. Phelps, both
charming, and some English. The ceremony was quite the same as before.
The Queen came about nine and went alone into the dining-room, and had
her two sons-in-law, Christian and Battenberg, on each side. W. took in
Princess Beatrice, and Mr. Phelps me, so I was quite happy. The Queen
spoke little, in German, principally, to her neighbours, the English
scarcely at all, and almost in whispers. I don't know what would happen
to me if I dined often at court, I couldn't sit at table for an hour
without talking to someone. Mr. P. says American women are not made for
courts and convenances. They lose all their charm if they are not
natural, and I think he is right. The cercle lasted about an hour. The
Queen and I talked music. She regrets Muenster, who is going to Paris.
#London#, March 9.
We were asked this morning if we would like to drive to the Mausoleum
before we went back to town, which we accepted of course. W. and I went
in an open carriage, a pair of horses and postillion, and Lord Thurlow,
Lord in Waiting, with us. In the next came Mr. and Mrs. Phelps with Mrs.
F., Lady in Waiting. We drove down the "long walk" to the Mausoleum,
which is not very far from the Castle. It is a handsome building with a
fine marble floor like some of the old Italian chapels. The tomb of the
Prince Consort is very fine, with a recumbent marble statue and a place
beside it for the Queen when her turn comes. There is a pretty monument
"In Memoriam" to Princess Alice (of Hesse) with her child in her arms,
and a tablet to the memory of John Brown as "a grateful tribute from
Queen Victoria to the faithful servant and friend of 34 years." We then
drove to Frogmore and saw the farm, basse-cour, dairy, etc., and took
the 12.30 train back to London. This evening we have had a handsome
dinner and reception at the Russian Embassy; the whole house open, band
playing, and all London there. The Duchess of Edinburgh dined. Corti
made his first appearance in the "grand monde" as Ambassador. He is much
pleased to be in London. I don't know if he and W. will be very cordial
colleagues, as Corti decidedly resented W.'s attitude in the Berlin
Congress.
_To J. K._
#Clieveden, Maidenhead#,
Sunday, March 29, 1886.
I will begin my letter this evening, Dear Jan, in this most lovely place
of the Duke of Westminster's which Karolyi, the Austrian Ambassador,
always hires, until after Easter, as his wife hates to spend the winter
in town. We came down yesterday afternoon with one of their secretaries,
a nice young fellow. We found the Karolyis alone in a charming library
filled with books in all languages, and with the most enchanting view of
the Thames--quite like the view from Richmond Terrace, if you remember
it. They gave us tea--and about 7 we went up to our rooms. Mine is the
one the Duchess always has, and W. has the dressing-room next, a large
room, all hung with rose-coloured silk, faded into yellow now, an
enormous bed with yellow silk curtains and counterpane, a bath-room with
marble bath opening out of a little passage, quite complete, and always
the same divine view. The rooms are filled with pictures, souvenirs of
all the Sutherlands (whose place it was originally), Westminsters, and
all the English Royal family of all ages. At 8 a gong sounded and we
went down to the library (where they live entirely), and found them
there with the addition of Count Victor Karolyi, a cousin. The dinner
was good, 4 servants, their chasseurs, in Hungarian uniform, 2 in black
and one in plain livery. After dinner the 2 Karolyi men sat down to
cards, W. and the young man talked, also Mme. K. and I--and all the men
smoked. It was easy enough, as everyone talked a great deal. We broke up
at 11. This morning we had breakfast at 10, and afterwards Mme. K.
showed me the house, which is very handsome, one large, beautiful
drawing-room opening on the terrace and river view. They live only in
the library, as the rest is so enormous to light and heat. At 12 M. and
Mme. de Staal, the Russian Ambassador and his wife, arrived, and we went
for a stroll in the grounds. Went out again after lunch for a long walk
down by the river in short skirts and thick boots, as it was very
damp--almost always is on the banks, generally low, of the Thames. It
looked very pretty and gay, quite a number of boats and some people we
all knew, staying in one of the houses near, got out of their boats and
walked along with us. We came in for tea at 5.30, and after that
adjourned to our respective rooms till dinner. The evening was pleasant,
as we were more numerous and Staal talks a great deal. Now I am going to
bed, as it is 11 o'clock, and we breakfast at a quarter to ten
to-morrow, and get back to London at 11.30.
[Illustration: The Countess Fanny Karolyi 1888 the Austrian Ambassadress
From a photograph by Walery London]
#London#, Monday, 30th.
We got back this morning at 1 for lunch, and have been in a wild state
ever since with the bad news from Tonkin and the defeat of our troops.
The Ministry is out, and Heaven knows what will happen. W. is as blue as
indigo over the news, as he had been very cocky over Tonkin, as compared
with the English blunders in the Soudan. Already there are despatches in
the clubs here, saying W. has been asked to take the Foreign Office. Of
course he hasn't been asked, and I hope he won't be, for I should hate
to begin that official life in Paris again, and I am very happy here
now--however, one never knows in political life. Do you know anything
about Phelps? W. is very anxious to have your opinion. He says you ought
to know about a Vermont man. He will have a difficult "succession." Mr.
Lowell is much liked and admired.
#London#,
April 10, 1886.
We have had a pleasant morning luncheon at Roll's Court with Lord Esher,
who showed us a quantity of most interesting old manuscripts. A letter
from "Bloody Mary" to Cardinal Pole announcing her "grossesse" (the
arrival of a Prince), also the confession and signature of Guy Fawkes
after torture, such a wavering, faint signature, "Guido." It is
extraordinary how all the papers and handwriting have lasted. All these
old-world things are so interesting to me, I seem to realize history so
much more. I hope to get over to Paris for a little this month. We had a
nice party (music) at Louisa Lady Ashburton's this evening, and an
interesting collection of people, fashionable, literary, and _Salvation
Army_. The house is crowded with statues, pictures, and artistic
treasures of all kinds.
_To J. K._
#Ambassade de France a Londres#,
Sunday, May 29, 1887.
We seem to have a gleam of sunshine this afternoon, Dear Jan, after
weeks of bleak east winds and grey skies, and we are going to take
advantage of it to drive out to White Lodge, Richmond Park, and see the
Tecks. We are revelling in Whitsuntide recess, and no dinners or
banquets until Friday, the second Court Concert. Last night I went to
the Opera with the Staals. It was "Faust," very well given, with Albani,
Scalchi, and Gayare. The house was fairly brilliant, but not full--the
Prince and Princess of Wales, Rothschilds, and a certain number of
people, who came to hear Albani (she is such a favourite here). I should
think it would be a losing operation. Tell Janet Mlle. de Staal looks so
nice, is so much more animated, really very pretty, so high bred and
always well dressed. Lady Salisbury's reception at the F. O. on Tuesday
for the Queen's Birthday was very brilliant; there were quantities of
Princes; a Danish Prince, brother of the Princess of Wales; a young
Russian Grand Duke, a son of the late Prince Frederick Charles, brother
of the Duchess of Connaught, and any quantity of Maharajahs, covered
with gold and silver embroidery and diamonds and emeralds as big as
eggs. They always make a great fuss over the Indian Princes at
Court--treat them like Royalty, and give them very good places. The
Corps Diplomatique always protests. The lion of the evening was Herbert
Bismarck. From the Prince of Wales down everyone, men and women, was
overwhelming him with attentions. I didn't think the Danish Prince
looked much pleased. He remarked that "Bismarck had a most disagreeable
voice." Lizzie P. was wandering about looking very handsome. I didn't
see Buffalo Bill, which rather surprised me. I suppose he is genuine,
isn't he? He professed to remember Captain King perfectly when I said I
had a brother who had been some time on the plains with his regiment.
Certainly the "Wild West Show" is most original and entertaining. The
Indians look savage enough to satisfy anyone, and Buffalo Bill and the
King of the Cowboys are splendid specimens of frontiersmen.
Monday.
I will finish this morning; it is still dark and rainy. We went out
yesterday to White Lodge and had a pleasant visit. It was much too cold
to sit out, so we had tea in the gallery and enjoyed it very much.
Princess Mary is always so easy. The young Princess May looked very nice
in a light tweed with a white waistcoat. She asked after Janet, and
wanted to know if she was to be here this season. I asked Princess Mary
what she was going to wear at the Jubilee Te Deum at Westminster. She
said she had no idea, but she had been told long dress, smart bonnet,
decorations and diamonds. It seems the Queen is going to wear a white
bonnet covered with diamonds. I have asked no questions and mean to wear
a short dress--no one will see, as we do not join any cortege. We arrive
quite simply and go straight to our places. I shall wear white lace with
mousse velvet, and a mousse bonnet with pink roses. Tell Janet, I am
convinced I shall never wear my moire apricot dress from Roulf, that I
couldn't wear last year at any of the Court fetes. I am sure the German
Prince will die. They say he may at any moment, as the excrescence in
his throat may increase, and then he would suffocate. Wouldn't it be
strange if that old Emperor outlived the son. Neither sled nor fans have
yet arrived. I suppose they will appear soon. We have one or two things
we mean to send out, as soon as we have an opportunity--gloves, etc. I
should think some of the 75,000 Americans who are coming over would go
back in the course of the summer. Princess Mary told me yesterday that a
pretty American girl--an heiress--she couldn't remember the name--did I
know?--is probably going to marry a Count Btetju, aide-de-camp to the
Prince of Denmark. It seems he saw her here and fell in love with her at
once. I must stop now. Have any quantity of notes to write.
_To G. K. S._
#London#,
June 14, 1887.