to my dress until we got to the Palace, as the gentlemen of the Embassy
had evidently found me _very green_ when we assembled in the great hall
before starting; however as soon as we arrived in the big room of the
Palace where we were all marshalled, Countess Linden (an American born)
said to me at once "Oh, Mdme. Waddington, how lovely your pink roses
look on the _dark blue_ velvet," so I knew it was all right. I wore that
dress of Delannoy's which she was sure would be most effective--pink
tulle skirts--with a green velvet habit (chosen of course by
candle-light) so that it did look very green by daylight, and a wreath
of pink roses round the decollete. I remember both Henrietta and Pauline
were a little doubtful--but it certainly made more effect than any dress
I wore except the blue manteau de cour. I will tell Delannoy. We always
go in by a special side entrance to these Palace functions, which is a
pity, as we miss the grand staircase, which they told us was splendid
with red carpets, soldiers, and gold-laced gentlemen to-night. We waited
some time, an hour certainly, before the Court came, but as all the
Corps Diplomatique were assembled there it was pleasant enough, and we
all compared our experiences and our fatigue, for everybody was dead
tired--the men more than the women.
The rooms are magnificent--very high, and entirely lighted by wax
candles--thousands; one of the chamberlains told me how many, but I
would scarcely dare to say. The Court arrived with the usual ceremony
and always the same brilliant suite of officers and foreign Princes. The
Emperor and Empress looked very smiling, and not at all tired. She was
in white, with splendid diamonds and the broad blue ribbon of St. Andre.
He always in uniform. As soon as they appeared the polonaises began,
this time three only, which the Emperor danced with the ladies of the
family. I danced the first with the Grand Duke Wladimir. He is charming
and amiable, but has a stern face when he isn't smiling. I think if the
Russians ever feel his hand it will be a heavy one. I danced the second
with the Grand Duke Alexis, and looked on at the third. It was not
nearly so fine a sight as the Court ball at the old palace. _There_ the
mixture of modern life and dress and half barbaric costumes and
ornamentations was so striking; also the trains made such an effect,
being all etaled one was obliged to keep a certain distance, and that
gave a stately air to the whole thing which was wanting last night when
all the women were in ordinary ball dress, not particularly long, so
that the cortege was rather crowded and one saw merely a mass of
jewelled heads (the dress was lost). Also they merely walked around the
ballroom, not going through all the rooms as we did at the old palace.
When the polonaises were over there were one or two waltzes. The Empress
made several turns, but with the Princes only, and we stood and looked
on.
While we were waiting there until someone should come and get us for
some new function I heard a sort of scuffle behind me and a woman's
impatient voice saying in English "I can't bear it another moment," and
a sound of something falling or rolling across the floor. I turned
round and saw Mdme. A---- (a secretary's wife, also an American)
apparently struggling with something, and very flushed and excited. I
said, "What is the matter?" "I am kicking off my shoes." "But you can
never put them on again." "I don't care if I never see them again--I
can't stand them another minute." "But you have to walk in a cortege to
supper with the Imperial party." "I don't care at all, I shall walk in
my stockings," then came another little kick, and the slipper
disappeared, rolling underneath a heavy damask curtain. I quite
sympathized with her, as my beautiful white slippers (Moscow
manufacture) were not altogether comfortable, but I think I should not
have had the strength of mind to discard them entirely. When I was
dressing, Adelaide tried to persuade me that I had better put on the
pink satin slippers that matched my dress; but my experience of the
hours of standing at all Russian Court functions had at least taught me
not to start with anything that was at all tight.
While we were looking at the dancing the Grand Duke Michel came over and
asked me if I wouldn't come and stand a little with the Grand Duchesses.
He took me to a little group where were the Grand Duchesses Michel and
Constantine and the Queen of Greece (she is always so gay and natural).
They at once asked me who had made my dress, and what color it was. They
had been talking about it, and couldn't agree. The Grand Duchess
Constantine had on her emeralds, and beautiful they were--blocks of
stone, rather difficult to wear. She must have been very handsome, has
still a beautiful figure, and holds herself splendidly.
We talked music a little--she said I ought to hear some of the people's
songs. I should like to very much, but there doesn't seem any place
where one can hear the national songs. The men of the Embassy went one
night to the "Hermitage," where there was a little of everything, and
did hear some of the peasants singing their national airs, but they
didn't seem to think I could go. While we were still talking there was a
move, and they said the Empress (who had been dancing all the time in
a small circle made for her at her end of the ballroom and very strictly
kept) was going to have tea. All the Court and suite followed, and I was
rather wondering how to get back to my place and my colleagues when a
tall aide-de-camp came up and said he would have the honour of
conducting me to Her Majesty's tea--so we started off across several
rooms and corridors, which were crowded, and arrived at a door where the
two gigantic negroes were standing. He said something--the doors flew
open--he made me a low bow and retired (as he couldn't come any
farther), and I found myself standing alone in a large room with four or
five tables--everyone seated. For a moment I didn't know quite what
to do, and felt rather shy, but the Princess Kotchoubey, Grande
Maitresse, who was standing in the middle of the room, came forward at
once and took me to the Duchesse d'Edimbourg's table, where there were
also the Arch-Duchess Charles Louis, the Duchess of Oldenburg, a young
Hessian Prince, and my two colleagues, Lady Thornton and Madame Jaures.
We had tea and ices--didn't talk much, except the Duchess of Edinburgh,
who seems clever and ready to talk--but I wasn't near her. I didn't see
all the Ambassadors, mine certainly wasn't there, and of course very
few comparatively of our colleagues, as only Ambassadors and their wives
were invited to Her Majesty's tea (no small fry, like Ministers).
I had the explanation of W.'s absence later. When the Court moved off to
tea General Wolseley suggested that W. should come and smoke a cigar in
his room. He was lodged at the Kremlin with his Prince, the Duke of
Edinburgh. He, like a true Briton, had enough of bowing and standing. W.
was naturally quite of the same opinion, so they picked up Admiral
Seymour (also with the Duke of Edinburgh) and had a very pleasant hour
smoking and talking until they were summoned for supper. _That_ they
couldn't get out of, as we made a fine procession directly behind the
Court through all the rooms to St. George's Hall--a great white high
room magnificently lighted, with tablets all around the walls with the
names of the Knights of the Order of St. George who had died in battle,
and a souper assis for 800 people. Sir Edward Thornton, British
Ambassador, took me. As we were parading through the rooms between two
hedges of gaping people looking at the cortege, dresses, diamonds, etc.,
I thought of Mdme. A---- and her stockings, and wondered how she was
getting on. I daresay quite well; as she had a yellow satin dress and
yellow silk stockings perhaps no one noticed anything, and as long as
she didn't step on a needle or anything sharp she was all right. Someone
will find a nice little pair of yellow satin shoes under the
window-curtains in the ballroom when the cleaning up is done after the
fetes.
The hall was a blaze of light and jewels--a long table across the end
for the Imperial party, and all of us at two long tables running the
whole length of the room. The gold and silver plate was very handsome,
particularly the massive flambeaux and high ornaments for the middle of
the table. The supper was good, hot, and quickly served. There was music
all the time--singers, men and women, in a gallery singing all sorts of
Russian airs which nobody listened to. The Emperor did not sit down to
supper. He remained standing in the middle of the room talking to his
gentlemen, and a few words to the diplomatists when supper was over and
one loitered a little before going back to the ballroom. He certainly
doesn't care to talk to strangers--seeks them out very little, and when
he does talk it is absolutely banal. Is it "paresse d'esprit" or great
reserve?--one hardly knows. I should think all this parade and function
bored him extremely. They say he is very domestic in his tastes, and
what he likes best is the country with his wife and children.
After supper we went back to the ballroom for about half an hour. Then
the Court retired and we followed them at once. We got our carriages
fairly quickly. There are always crowds in the streets waiting to see
the grand-monde pass. The Kremlin looks fairy-like as we drive
through--lights everywhere, some high, high up in a queer little octagon
green tower--then a great doorway and staircase all lighted, with
quantities of servants and soldiers standing about; then a bit of rough
pavement in a half dark court and under a little low dark gate with a
shrine and Madonna at one end--all so perfectly unmodern, and unlike
anything else.
* * * * *
I began my letter this morning before breakfast, but didn't finish, as I
was called off by some visits, and now I will try and send this off by
to-night's courier. We have had a nice afternoon looking at the Tresor.
Of course it was very hurried--it would take weeks to see everything.
The collection of state carriages and sleighs is interesting. Almost all
the carriages are French--either given to the various Russian Sovereigns
by French Kings, or ordered in France by the Sovereigns themselves. The
great sledge in which Catharine II. made all her long voyages is
comfortable enough, and not unlike the "wagons imperiaux" in which we
travelled from Varsovie to Moscow.
Then we saw all the Coronation robes, crowns, sapphires, swords,
jewelled belts and collars, furs, etc., of all the old Emperors from
Ivan the Terrible down to the late Emperor. Some of the crowns of the
first Ivans and Peters are extraordinary--a sort of high fur cap
covered with jewels, but heavy and roughly made--the jewels always
beautiful, such large stones, particularly sapphires and rubies. There
were vitrines full of splendid gold and silver cups and dishes, presents
to the Emperor from all the different provinces.
They tell us the present Emperor has had magnificent things given to
him, but we have not seen them yet. We met various people also going
through the Museum, and I had quite a talk with Radziwill (you know
which one I mean, who married Countess Malatesta's daughter). It seemed
funny to go back to the old Roman days, and the evenings (prima-sera) in
the Malatesta Palace. He says everybody is worn out with the ceremonies
and the standing--however, to-night is the end, with our dinner at the
Palace.
I have again been interrupted--this time by a visit from the Duc
d'Aoste, whom I always find charming. He is not at all expansive and
very shy, but when one breaks the ice he is interesting. He doesn't look
like anybody else, nor as if he belonged to this century. It is quite
the face one would see in any old Spanish picture--a soldier-monk of
Velasquez. He talked about the Exhibition of '78, when W. was at the
Foreign Office, and I was almost tempted to tell him how embarrassed
we all were on the opening day when there were so many Ex-Spanish
Sovereigns--King Francois d'Assises, Queen Isabella, and King Amedee.
There was a big reception in the evening at the Elysee, and the
Marechal[6] was rather bothered with all his Spanish Royalties. However,
Queen Isabella and the Duc d'Aoste were evidently on the best of terms.
I saw them talking together, and I believe all the Spaniards liked
d'Aoste, though naturally they wanted a King of their own race.
[6] MacMahon, President at that time of the French Republic.
Here is Monsieur Philippe for his last coiffure, as he says somewhat
sadly. To-night's dinner is our last function. We have then the revue,
by daylight, of course, and leave on Sunday for Petersburg.
Wednesday, June 6th.
The gala dinner was handsome and _short_ last night. W. and I went off
alone (none but chefs de mission were invited) in the coupe d'Orsay,
always with Benckendorff in his carriage in front--W. in uniform, I in
my white and silver brocade, white feathers and diamonds in my hair, no
colour anywhere, not even on my cheeks, which reduces Philippe to a
state of prostrate stupefaction--"Madame qui pourrait etre si bien."
We were received at the foot of the staircase and at the doors by all
the Chamberlains as usual and taken at once to the same Salle St. George
where we were to dine--all at the Imperial table this time--about 500
couverts. We were shown at once our seats--all the places were marked,
and we stood waiting behind our chairs (like the footmen) for the Court
to appear. I found myself seated between the Duc d'Aoste and the young
Crown Prince of Sweden, so I was quite satisfied. One of my colleagues
was very anxious I should change the papers--give her my Duke and take
her's, who was never civil to her, but would be perhaps to me, but I
demurred, as I knew mine would be nice, and I didn't know her's at all.
I don't think he was very nice to her, certainly didn't talk much, but
perhaps he never does.
We didn't wait very long. The Court was fairly punctual--the Empress
looked very nice, all in white with diamonds. She had on her right the
Duc d'Edimbourg (who always had the place of honour), and on her left
the Prince Waldemar de Danemark, her brother. The Emperor had the Queen
of Greece on his right, the Arch Duchess Charles Louis on his left. The
dinner wasn't bad, and was quickly served. The fish were enormous,
served on large silver dishes as big as boats. There was always that
curious Russian soup with all sorts of nondescript things floating about
on the surface. The Duc d'Aoste was as nice as possible--said the Court
officials would be enchanted when everything was over, and all the
foreign Princes safely back in their own countries, that the question of
etiquette was something awful. As soon as the Russian Court decided
anything all the others immediately protested--used all sorts of
precedents, and complicated matters in every way. I suggested that he
himself was difficult to place on account of the Duc de Montpensier, who
was here as a Spanish Prince, husband of the Infanta. He replied
"Absolument pas--je suis ici comme prince italien, frere du roi,"
declining any sort of Spanish souvenir.
When dinner was over we passed into the salle St. Andre for coffee, and
that was funny too. As soon as the Emperor and Empress made the move all
our Dukes and Princes got up at once, and joined the Imperial
procession, and we followed all in a heap. There we had a pleasant half
hour, the Empress and the Grand Duchesses came over and talked to us,
hoped we were not tired, that we had been interested, etc. I said to the
Grand Duchess Constantine that they must be enchanted to be at the end
of their functions, and to get rid of us all--but she said not at all.
She herself was much less tired than when she began. She asked me what I
had found the most striking in all the ceremonies. I said certainly the
Coronation--first the moment when the Emperor crowned himself--the only
figure standing on the dais, and afterwards when he crowned the Empress,
she kneeling before him.
The Empress asked me if I was going straight back to France, but she
didn't say, as so many of the others did, "Ce n'est pas adieu pour vous,
Mdme. Waddington, mais au revoir, car vous reviendrez certainement."
Admiral Jaures having already resigned many people think W. will be the
next Ambassador, but he certainly won't come.
About 9 the Court retired. We had dined at 7, so the whole thing took
about two hours. It was quite light when we came out of the Palace, and
when we got back to the Maison Klein we found the Embassy just finishing
dinner, still in the dining-room. We sat a few minutes with them telling
our experiences. W. had been next to the Grand Duchess Michel, who was
very animated and intelligent, and extremely well posted in all literary
and political matters, and fairly just for a Princess speaking about a
Republic.
Poor Pontecoulant has had a telegram telling him of his brother's death.
He is very much upset, and goes off to-night. W. will miss him
extremely--he was his right-hand man. I have been out this morning
shopping with Francois de Courcelle. It isn't easy, as our Russian is
not fluent, but still we managed to find a few things.
This afternoon I have been with Lagrene (Consul), Sesmaisons, Corcelle,
and Calmon to the great institution of the "Enfants Trouves" fondee par
l'Imperatrice Catherine II. There we found Admiral Jaures and all his
staff, and a director who showed us all over the establishment--of
course everything was in perfect order, and perfectly clean (and I
believe it always is), but I should have preferred not having our visit
announced, so as to see the every-day working of the thing. We went
through quantities of rooms. In all, the Russian nurses with their high
head-dress (kakoshnik), the colour of the room, were standing, and
showed us most smilingly their babies. The rooms are all known by their
colours and the nurses dressed to correspond. All pink kakoshniks, for
instance, in the pink room, blue in the blue room, etc. It was rather
effective when all the women were standing in groups. The nurses were
decidedly young, some rather pretty faces, almost all fair. The
surveillante is a nice, kindly looking woman. We saw the whole ceremony.
In one of the rooms of the rez-de-chaussee we saw several women waiting
to take the children. The operation is always the same--one writes down
at once the name and age of the child (which is generally written on a
piece of paper pinned on to the clothes), they are always very young, 5
or 6 days old. Then they are undressed, weighed, and carried off by one
of the nurses, wrapped up in a blanket, to a bath. After the bath they
are dressed in quite clean, nice garments, and the nurse gives them
the breast at once. All the rooms, dortoirs, salles-debain, laundries,
kitchens, are as clean as possible, plenty of light and air, and no
smells. We met Countess Pahlen going out as we came in, also the Arch
Duke Charles Louis.
As we still had time before dinner we went to see the new church of St.
Sauveur, where there is to be a great ceremony of consecration
to-morrow; but as it is principally to celebrate the retreat of the
French Army from Moscow the two French Embassies abstain from that
function. We met there Prince Dolgourouky, Governor of Moscow, who did
the honours, and showed us the marbles, which are very varied and
handsome, all from the provinces of the Empire. The place was full of
workmen putting up tribunes, red and gold draperies, etc., but the
Prince, with much tact, made no allusion to to-morrow's function--so we
apparently didn't notice anything unusual in the church, and
concentrated our attention on the beautiful Russian marble.
11 o'clock.
I will finish to-night. We have had our second diplomatic dinner, and I
found it pleasant, I hope the guests did. I had Mgr.[7] Vannutelli, the
Nonce, next to me. He is charming--such an easy talker. He arrived after
the sacre, as of course he could take no part in the ceremony. He told
me the dream of his life was to come to Paris, and I think he would have
a great success. He and Prince Orloff talked very easily together, and
Orloff told him he ought to come to Paris. Orloff also says that W.
ought to come back here as Ambassador, that he would be decidedly a
"persona grata," but that isn't W.'s impression. He has talked to a good
many men who are about the Court and the Emperor, and he thinks a
soldier, not a political man, would be a much better appointment. We
shall miss Pontecoulant awfully. He is so easy-going and looks after
everything, always smoothing things over--very necessary in a temporary
Embassy like this where all pull apart a little, and there is a sort of
dull friction and rivalry between the soldiers and the diplomatists. It
is funny to live entirely with a quantity of men, but they are all
charming to me.
[7] Now cardinal.
_To H. L. K._
#Ambassade de France, Moscow#,
#Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
Thursday, June 7th, 1883.
W. and I have had such a quiet conjugal day that we can hardly believe
we are still "Ambassadeur Extraordinaire." We breakfasted tete-a-tete,
as all the gentlemen have gone off to the Convent of St. Serge, which is
one of the things to see here. They have a very fine tresor. The Emperor
and Empress made retraite there before the sacre. After breakfast W.
looked over his despatches, and I played a little some Russian music
which Benckendorff had given me.
About three we started off for "les Moineaux," a hill near Moscow from
which Napoleon had his first view of the city. There was no sun, which
was a pity, as all the colour of Moscow makes it so original and
different from everything else--however the city looked mysterious and
poetical in a sort of pink brume. We met various colleagues going the
same way--Nigra always in his "Troika" (Russian attelage) and the Hunts.
Nigra came and joined us on the terrace, and we had tea together. They
offered us a great many things, but we declined experiments, and kept on
saying "Tchai" (which means tea), until they brought it. Nigra told W.
he should taste the peculiar brandy of the country which all
drink--prince and peasant--but I think W. did not like it much. Nigra
was most agreeable. He is Italian Ambassador to Petersburg, and knows
everybody. He says Russian Society is rather fermee, unless you take
their ways and hours. All the ladies receive late, after the theatres,
every evening. It is quite informal--a cup of tea, very often music, and
really interesting talk. He says the women are remarkably intelligent
and cultivated--en masse cleverer than the men. I wonder if he would go
as far about them as Lord Lyons did about American women. When he came
back from America he said he had _never_ met a stupid American woman. We
had a pleasant hour on the terrace, and then started home again.
We crossed the Empress driving with her brother, Prince Waldemar, in an
ordinary open carriage (harnessed Russian fashion--the three horses) and
with no escort nor _apparent_ policemen of any kind. She looked very
well and smiling, and so young. There was not much movement on the
road--a few carriages and peasant's carts. As soon as we got into Moscow
we fell at once into the same staring, quiet crowd; but I fancy many
people have already gone. The streets were not nearly so full.
I had just time to dress, and dined alone with the gentlemen. W. and
General Pittie dined with the Nonce, Mgr. Vannutelli, and were to go to
Countess Pahlen's reception afterwards. The expedition to the Convent
seems to have been very successful, but long. They gave them breakfast
in the refectory--a very frugal meal--and showed them all their
treasures. I stayed a little while in the serre while they were smoking.
Now they have all gone out and I am not sorry to finish my evening
quietly in my little boudoir. I am getting quite accustomed to my little
room, with its ugly green and gold silk furniture (quite hideous, such a
bright, hard green). The chairs and sofa are so heavy it takes two of us
to move them. There are quantities of tables and candles (40 or 50 at
least, no lamps of any description), in branches, double candlesticks,
etc. I have great difficulty in persuading the little Russian maid not
to light them all, all the time; and when I have about 12 to dress by
she evidently considers me in the dark absolutely. I _think_ I have
dressed sometimes with two, quite contented, in the old days.
Friday, June 8th.