much pleased with her husband's appearance as I am with mine. What an
experience for them, when you think that she had never been out of
Villers-Cotterets and Bourneville when she came to us, and Paris seemed
a Paradise.
#Ambassade de France a Moscou#,
#Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
Monday, May 28th, 1883.
We were all again in Court dress at 11 this morning to go to the Palace
and present our felicitations to the Imperial couple. I wore the same
blue dress, as my pink one goes on to-night for the "courtag" at the
Palace. It seems there was some misunderstanding about our being
received this morning, so some of our colleagues had come, and gone,
rather put out at the vagueness of the instructions. We decided to
remain, as we had arrived there in all our finery, particularly as one
of the chamberlains told us it would be most interesting. Deputations
from the provinces were to present addresses of felicitation and we
would see all the national costumes.
As we had some time to wait, the Greek chamberlain suggested that we
should take advantage of that opportunity to be presented to the Queen
of Greece. He thought he could arrange it, so he went off to her
rooms, and presently reappeared with the maid of honour, Mlle.
Colocotroni (a friend of Gertrude's), and we were taken at once to the
Queen, who was standing in a small salon overlooking the river. She is
young and handsome, fair, stoutish, but tall enough to carry it off
well, and was chatty and sympathetic--said she supposed I was quite
tired after yesterday, that it was certainly very trying; that the
person who was the least tired was the Empress. She had met her in one
of the corridors in the interval between the ceremony at the church, or
rather the churches (as she went to three after leaving the Assomption).
She had taken off her Imperial mantle and crown, and was going to see
one of her numerous relations before beginning again.
As soon as our audience was over we returned to the large audience hall,
where we found Benckendorff tearing his hair, in a wild state, because
we were late--all our colleagues had taken their places. However we were
in time, and ranged ourselves, the ladies all together on the right, the
men opposite. I was the Doyenne, and stood at the head of the column (as
neither Lady Thornton nor Mdme. Schweinitz was there). All about the
room were groups of people from the provinces waiting their turn, but
there was such a crowd of uniforms and costumes that one could hardly
distinguish anything.
Presently the Court appeared--the Emperor always in uniform, the Empress
in a very handsome train, blue velvet, embroidered in gold, and a
splendid tiara, necklace and front of sapphires. They had the usual
train of Princes, chamberlains, aides-de-camp, etc. As soon as they had
taken their places on the platform all the Missions (men) advanced
according to their rank. The Ambassador made a few steps forward, said a
few words of felicitation to the Emperor (the Mission remaining at a
respectful distance behind), then made a low bow, and all retired a
reculons.
The Austrian Embassy looked very well--the Hungarian uniforms are so
handsome. The Americans also very well, though they have no uniform,
wear ordinary black evening clothes. The Admiral and his two
aides-de-camp of course wore theirs, but it is so quiet, dark blue with
little lace, and no orders, that one would hardly have remarked it
except for the epaulettes and aiguillettes.
As soon as all the men of the Corps Diplomatique had passed the Empress
left her place and came to us. Her train was carried by 4 pages, a high
official, red velvet and gold lace, carrying the extreme end. She passed
down the line of ladies, saying something to each one. I heard her speak
three languages--English, French, and German--quite easily.
We waited until the Court retired, and then there was the usual stampede
for the carriages. I have not been out again this afternoon. We start
for our Court ball at 8.45, and of course dine early. I was interrupted
by Philippe, who came to coiffer me, having as usual stopped in the
lingerie to inspect my dress, the pink one this time. He tells me he
began to dress some of the heads for to-night at 12 this morning.
_To H. L. K._
#Ambassade de France a Moscou#,
#Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
Mardi, 29 Mai, 1883.
I will begin my letter while I am waiting to go with some of the
gentlemen and Benckendorff to see the preparations for the great
people's fete. I couldn't write last night, I was so tired out. Two
court dresses and functions, and hours of standing is a good deal for
one day. We started early, at a quarter to 9. We assembled in the same
room in the old Kremlin where the Imperial couple had dined this
afternoon. Almost all our colleagues and some of the swell Russians were
already there, and everyone moved about, talking and looking until the
welcome strains of the march told us the Emperor and Empress were
coming.
One of the chamberlains showed me some of the most curious old bowls and
flagons. The work is rather rough, and the stones enormous--not well
cut--but the effect is good, half barbaric. The Court appeared always
with the same brilliant suite--the Empress looked charming in a pink
velvet train, embroidered in silver. All the Grand Duchesses in drap
d'argent, bordered with beautiful black sable.
As soon as the Court arrived the polonaise began; the Emperor making the
first with Queen of Greece, the Empress with Schweinitz. It was a
charming sight. All the trains were etalees their full length. The
gentleman takes his partner's hand, holding it very high, and they
make a stately progress through the rooms. I didn't dance the first one.
We had a very good view of the whole thing. It was a beautiful
sight--the men all in uniform, with orders, and broad ribbons; and the
women with their trains down the full length. The Russian trains, of
white and silver bordered with fur, made a great effect.
The Emperor danced (which is a facon de parler only, as one walked
through the rooms) with the Queen of Greece, Arch Duchess Charles Louis,
and the Ambassadrices Lady Thornton, Mdme. Jaures, Countess Dudzeele,
and me--the Empress with the 6 Ambassadors. I danced the second
polonaise with the Grand Duke Wladimir, who is handsome and spirited
looking. He told me who many of the people were. In one of the rooms
were all the Russian women, not in costume, but in ordinary ball dress,
all, however, wearing the Kakoshnik studded with jewels, and most
becoming it was.
I was much interested (before my turn came) to see how the ladies got
back to their places after having been deposited by the Emperor in the
middle of the room. He doesn't conduct his partner back as all the
others do. He goes back to his own place, the lady makes a curtsey,
and gets back to hers across the room backwards as well as she can. They
seemed to get through all right. I rather enjoyed my polonaise with the
Emperor. He showed me quantities of people--a splendid man from some
part of Asia dressed in white, with jewels, coloured stones mostly, all
down the front of his coat, and pistols in his belt with jewelled hilts.
Also the Khan of Khiva, with all the front of his high fur cap covered
with jewels, also his belt, which seemed made entirely of diamonds
and rubies.
The music was always the march from Glinka's opera; each band in turn
taking it up as the cortege passed through the rooms. The last Polonaise
finished about 11.30, and the Court immediately retired. We had no
refreshments of any kind, and made the same rush for the carriages.
Our rentree to the Embassy is most amusing--the whole Mission precedes
us, and when we arrive we find them ranged in a semicircle at the foot
of the staircase, waiting to receive us. Richard says he never
understood the gulf that separates an Ambassador Extraordinary
from ordinary mortals until he accompanied his brother to Moscow.
5 o'clock.
We had rather an interesting afternoon. We met one of the committee at
the place, sort of great plain, or meadow, where the Fete Populaire is
to be, near the Petrofski Palace, where the Emperor stayed before he
made his public entree into Moscow, who showed us everything. There are
quantities of little sheds or baraques, where everybody (and there will
be thousands, he tells us) will receive a basket with a meat pate, a
pate of confitures, a cake, and a package of bonbons. There are also
great barrels of beer, where everyone can go with a mug and drink as
much as he can hold.
We asked M. (I forget his name) how it was possible to take precautions
with such a crowd of people, but he said they anticipated no danger, it
was the "people's day," which sounded to us rather optimistic. It was
rather nice driving about.
Now I have just been, at the request of Lhermite, to look at his table,
as we have our first big dinner to-night (all Russians); all the
flowers, "Roses de France," have just arrived from Paris--three nights
on the road; they look quite fresh and beautiful,--were packed alone in
large hampers. I shall wear my blue tulle ball-dress to-night, as we go
to the ball at the Governor's Palace after dinner.
Wednesday, 30th.
Our dinner was pleasant last night. As it was entirely Russian we had
the curious meal they all take just before dinner. A table was spread in
the small salon opening into the dining-room, with smoked and salted
fish, caviare, cucumbers, anchovies, etc. They all partook, and then we
passed into the dining-room, where the real business began. I sat
between M. de Giers, Foreign Minister, and Count Worontzoff, Ministre de
la Cour. They were very pleasant, and rather amusing over the exigencies
of the suites of the foreign Princes; the smaller the Power the more
important the chamberlains, equerries, etc.--rather like our own
experience the year of the Exhibition in Paris, where a Baden equerry, I
think, was forgotten (which of course was most improper at the Quai
d'Orsay), and most delicate negotiations were necessary. Both gentlemen
were very complimentary over the dinner and the flowers--asked where in
Moscow we had been able to find them, and could hardly believe they had
arrived this morning, three nights and three days on the road. They were
beautiful, those lovely pink "Roses de France," which looked quite
charming with the dark blue Sevres china.
The guests went off about 10; and we half an hour later to the great
ball. I wore my light blue tulle with silver braid; and I will add that
I left the greater part of the tulle at the Palace. Happily the silk
under-skirt was strong, or else I should have stood in my petticoats.
The crowd and heat was something awful--the staircase was a regular
bousculade, and I was thankful those big Russian spurs merely tore my
flounces, and didn't penetrate any further. We finally arrived,
struggling and already exhausted, in the ballroom, where we found all
the Grand Dukes and Grand Duchesses already assembled to receive the
Emperor.
We had some little time to wait, so they all came over and talked to us.
The Queen of Greece is most attractive--so simple. She noticed that my
dress was torn and flowers crushed, but said, what was quite true, that
no one would remark it in the crowd. We soon heard the sound of the
March, and then there was such a rush towards the door by which the
Emperor and Empress were to enter that we quickly withdrew into the
embrasure of the window, and let the torrent pass. They tried to make a
circle, but it was impossible. The crowd was dense. W. and I made our
way quickly to the head of the stairs and waited there, as they had told
us the Emperor would not stay long--merely make a tour through the
rooms.
They appeared very soon, shook hands with us both, and seemed very glad
to get away. The Empress was in light blue, with a beautiful diamond
tiara. It is rather pretty to see the Grand Duke Wladimir _always_ close
to his brother, to shield him from any danger. We were all rather cross
when we got home.
This morning I have been shopping with W., Richard, and Pontecoulant. It
is rather an unsatisfactory performance, as we can't either speak or
understand Russian. In the bazaars and real Moscow shops they know
nothing but Russian. We take the little polygot boy with us (always
ahead in his little droshky) but as he invariably announces "la grande
Ambassade" we _see_ the prices go up. Some of the enamel and gold and
silver work is beautiful. Richard was quite fascinated with the
Madonnas, with their black faces and wands, set in a handsome frame of
gold, with light blue enamel. He bought two, one for Louise and one for
me, which I am delighted to have. We bought various little boxes, some
of lacquer, others in silver, rather prettily worked, and a variety of
fancy spoons, buckles, etc.
I must stop now and dress. We dine at 6, so as to be at the Opera at 9.
We shall go "en gala," our three carriages, as it is a fine warm night.
The detective is a little anxious for to-night (it would be such a good
opportunity to get rid of all the Russian Princes, to say nothing of the
foreigners). He and Pontecoulant suggested to W. that I should be left
at home, but I protested vigorously. If they all go, I am going too. I
don't feel very nervous, I wonder why; for it really is a little
uncomfortable--unusual to hesitate about going to the Opera because one
might be blown up.
_To H. L. K._
Jeudi, May 31st, 1883.
I was too tired to write last night, though the opera was over fairly
early. It was a beautiful sight, the house brilliantly lighted and
crowded, nothing but uniforms, orders, and jewels. There was one dark
box, which of course attracted much attention; the Americans--all the
men in black, except the three naval officers--(we were acclames all
along the route, and I must say Leroy and Hubert looked very well in
their tricornes and powdered wigs). I wore the creme embroidered velvet
with blue satin front, tiara, and blue feathers in my hair. I fancy
Philippe had made a sort of tower on the top of my head, but he again
assured me I must have a "coiffure de circonstance."
The square before the Opera was brilliantly lighted (they certainly
light most beautifully in Russia--thousands of candles everywhere), a
red carpet down, and quantities of palms and flowers--always also
quantities of gilded gentlemen. We didn't wait very long for the
Court to appear--about a quarter of an hour--and were much taken up
looking at everything, and everybody, and trying to recognize our
friends. A large box at one end of the house, opposite the stage, was
reserved for the Royalties, all draped of course in red and gold.
Everyone rose when the Emperor and Empress arrived, always with their
brilliant cortege of Princes. One of the most striking uniforms was the
Prince of Montenegro's, but they all made a fine show, and a most
effective background for the women--the orchestra playing the Russian
Hymn, the chorus singing it, all the house applauding, and all eyes
fixed on the Royal box.
It was really magnificent, and the Emperor looked pleased. They gave the
first act of Glinka's opera "La Vie pour le Czar." When the curtain fell
the whole house rose again; when the Emperor and Empress left their box
there was a general movement among the people, and some of our
colleagues had come to pay us a visit when Count Worontzoff (Ministre de
la Cour) appeared and said, "Sa Majeste" hoped we would come and have
tea with her, and he would have the honour of showing us the way; so he
gave me his arm and took me to the foyer, which was very well arranged
with flowers, plants, and red carpets.
There were several round tables. He took me to the Empress' table, where
were the Queen of Greece, Grand Duchesses Constantine and Wladimir, Lady
Thornton, and Madame Jaures; also Nigra, Schweinitz, and a brother of
the Shah de Perse. The Empress looked so young, in white, with a broad
red ribbon, and splendid diamonds. The Queen of Greece was charming,
asked me if I ever found time to write to Francis. The Emperor didn't
sit down--he walked about between the tables, and talked to everybody.
We stayed, I should think, about half an hour at the tea-table, and then
went back to the theatre. The ballet was long, but interesting, all the
mazurkas of the Empire were danced in costume. We got our carriages
easily enough, and the arrangements were good. The younger members of
the Mission who didn't go for tea with the Empress found the entr'acte
long.
Saturday, June 2d.
I couldn't write yesterday, Dear, for I was in bed until dinner-time,
thoroughly tired out. Neither W. nor I went to the ball on Thursday
night given by the "Noblesse de Moscou." I hoped to be able to go to the
ball of the German Embassy last night, but I couldn't do that either. I
felt rather better about 6 o'clock, and sent for my dress, as W.
particularly wanted me to go, but the minute I stood up and tried to
dress I was half fainting, so there was no use persisting.
The fatigue has been something awful, and the hours of standing have
made it impossible to put on my Paris shoes, and I have been obliged to
buy white satin _boats_ at one of the Moscow shoemakers. The bootmakers
will make his fortune, as it seems everybody is in the same state. The
Empress even can't wear her usual shoes, and all the women have left off
coquettish little shoes that match their dresses, and taken to these
rather primitive chaussures.
W. and all the gentlemen went to the ball, and said it was very
handsome--everything, silver, supper, servants, etc., had been sent from
Berlin. Madame Schweinitz, who has a young baby, arrived from Petersburg
the morning of the ball. Count Eulenbourg--one of the German Emperor's
Maitres des Ceremonies--had also arrived to decide about the questions
of precedence, place, etc. The Court remained to supper, so of course
the Ambassadors were obliged to stay. W. got home at 2 o'clock, very
late for this country, where everything begins early.
Richard and Pontecoulant are getting great friends. Pontecoulant
blagues[5] him all the time--says he is getting a perfect courtier, and
that his electors in the Seine Inferieure would be scandalized if they
could see him. I must dress now for the "Fete Populaire," and will write
more when I get back.
[5] Teases.
9 o'clock.
I have retired to my own quarters. W. dines with Nigra, so I have
remained in my dressing-room, as I have still a "fond de fatigue." The
Fete Populaire was interesting. The day has been beautiful, and
there was not a hitch of any kind. The drive out was interesting, on
account of the people, a steady stream of peasants of all ages going the
same way. We went at once to the Loge Imperiale, a large pavilion
erected at the entrance facing the great plain. The space was so
enormous that one hardly distinguished anything. The booths and towers
looked like little spots, and they were very far off. The Emperor and
Empress never left the Loge. He certainly didn't go down and walk about
among the people, as some enthusiastic gentlemen had told us he would.
Of course all the same people were assembled in the Loge--Diplomatists,
Court officials, officers, etc. There was a cold lunch always going on.
There were many white dresses--all Russian women wear white a great deal
at any age. The Princess Kotchoubey--78 years old--who put the Imperial
mantle on the Empress the day of the sacre, and who had done the same
thing for the late Empress, was dressed entirely in white, bonnet,
mantle, everything.
The Court remained about an hour, and we left as soon as they did. There
was some little delay getting our carriages, but on the whole the thing
was well managed. Already some people were coming away looking very
smiling, and carrying their baskets most carefully. I will bring you one
of the mugs they gave me with the chiffre of the Emperor and Empress,
and the date.
Sunday, June 3d.
I stayed at home all the morning, quite pleased to have nothing to do.
This afternoon W., Pontecoulant, and I went for a little turn. We got
out of the carriage at the Kremlin, and walked about, having a quiet
look at everything. The view from the terrace was enchanting, the
afternoon sun lighting up all the curious old buildings, and bringing
out the colours of everything.
This evening we have had a diplomatic dinner. I was between Schweinitz
and Sir Edward Thornton. Both of them talked a great deal. After dinner
I talked some time to Hunt, whom I like very much. He says many people,
Russians particularly, couldn't understand why he didn't wear his
uniform--"ce n'est pas tres poli pour nous." They can't conceive that
the representative of a great Power shouldn't be attired in velvet and
gold like all the rest of the Embassies.
The table was again covered with pink roses. They just last through the
dinner, and fall to pieces as soon as they are taken out of the vases.
Some of them looked so fresh, not even in full bloom, that I thought I
could send some French roses to Countess Pahlen, and the moment we left
the dining-room Lhermite took them off the table, but they fell to
pieces in his hands, covering the floor with their petals.
Monday, June 4th.
This morning we have been photographed in the court-yard--the whole
establishment, gala carriages, servants, horses, moujiks, maids, cooks,
etc. First there was the "classic" group of the Mission, W. and I seated
in front, with all the gentlemen standing around us. It was very long
getting the poses all right so as to show everybody in an advantageous
light; and as it is (judging from the cliche) Francois de Corcelle looks
as if he was throttling me. Then came the group of the whole party, and
it was amusing to see how eager the Russian maids and the stable-men
were to be well placed. They stood as still as rocks. We waited a little
to see the gala carriages and horses taken, but that was too long. The
horses were nervous, and never were quiet an instant. Now someone has
gone to get a drum--they think the sudden noise may make them all look
in the same direction for a moment.
W. and I have been out for a turn--to the Kremlin of course, which is
really the most interesting part of Moscow. There is always the same
crowd hurrying and jostling each other. We went all over St. Basile. The
inside is curious, with a succession of rooms and dark recesses, but the
outside is unique; such an agglomeration of domes, steeples,
bell-towers; all absolutely different in shape and colour--perfectly
barbarous, but very striking.
W. enjoys our quiet afternoon drives, the perpetual representation,
seeing always the same people, and saying and hearing the same things,
is beginning to tire him. It is a curious life. We see nothing but the
Court and the people--no haute bourgeoisie nor intermediate class, and
yet they exist, people in finance and commercial affairs. They certainly
have had no part in the show--I should think there must be great
discontent. The young generation certainly will never be satisfied to
be kept entirely out of everything. Some of them have travelled, been
educated in England, have handsome houses, English horses, etc., but
apparently they don't exist--at least we have never seen any.
I must stop, as we dress and dine early for the Palace Ball. My Dear, my
dress is frightfully green (Delannoy's green velvet coat over pink
tulle). Of course we chose it by candle-light, when it looked charming;
but as we dress and start by daylight I am rather anxious. I consulted
Pontecoulant, who came in just as the maids were bringing it in. He
said, "C'est bien vert, Madame." Let us hope that the light of thousands
of wax candles may have a subduing effect.
_To G. K. S._
#Ambassade de France, Moscow#,
#Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
June 5, 1883.