MATANZAS, CUBA.

DEAR M.,--In my last letter I told you of our invitation to the _bal

poudré_ and _masqué_ here. Count Ceballos, thinking it would amuse us to

see it, arranged that we should stay at the palace, where the ball was to

take place.

The Captain of the Port, with his aide-de-camp, accompanied us on our

trip, and as he was going there in some official capacity, we shared his

honors.

We had no adventures except that of traveling in company with a rather

rough-looking set of men, who were on their way to a cock-fight. The cocks

were tied up in bags; but as I wanted to see one the man opened the bag

and took it out, and also showed me the spurs they strap on them when they

fight.

We arrived in Matanzas about six o'clock, to find the Mayor's carriage

waiting for us. We drove to the palace, and after dinner dressed for the

ball. We did not attempt anything in the way of mask or costume, as being

unknown and _unpowdered_ was a sufficient disguise.

The Captain of the Port knew every one there, and presented many of his

friends. We went out and stood on the balcony, looking at the sea of

upturned heads. It seemed as if every Matanzois who was not inside was

outside gazing at the windows, and listening to the band which was playing

in the square. The night was glorious with a full moon.

I think that I have described in a former letter the Cuban dance, the

languid tropical shuffle they call the _Habanera_. The music is so

monotonous, always the same over and over again, and only ceases when it

is convenient to the musicians.

The ladies had _cascarilla_ (a powder made of eggshells) an inch thick on

their faces. I doubt if the officers ever saw so much powder as they did

at this _bal poudré_.

There was a sit-down supper, consisting of sandwiches smelling strong of

bad butter, ham and chicken salads, _dulces_ of all sorts, but, alas!

no fruit. The dancing continued long after we had retired for the night.

The Marquis Aldamar invited us to a _déjeuner_ for the following day;

the _volantes_ were again "to the door," and we started off in grand

style and great spirits and drove to the top of the mountain, from which

we enjoyed a perfectly glorious view of the Yumiri Valley. The winding

river looked like a silver thread as it wound in and out through the

grassy meadows.

Our _déjeuner_ was of a more European character than any that we had

yet had in Cuba; the menu was in French--evidently the cook was also

French--and the servants looked imported. In fact, everything was in

very good style. The hostess was charming and musical, she sang some very

pretty Cuban songs, and after a while asked me if I were musical, and if I

would play something.

The Captain, in an undertone and in all "proudness," said, "Ask Madame to

sing." And she did so in a rather condescending manner.

I accepted and went timidly to the piano, and as I hesitated as to what I

should sing, she said, "Oh! just sing any little thing." With an amused

glance at Laura I sang Chopin's waltz, which is the most difficult thing I

sing, and the astonishment depicted on the countenance of my patronizing

hostess was highly diverting.

"I wonder if you are any relation of a Mrs. Moulton whom my cousin knew in

Paris," she said. "He was very intimate with a family of your name, and

often talked to me about a Mrs. Moulton who sang so beautifully."

"Can it be that I am the same person? I have lived in Paris. What was your

cousin's name?" I inquired.

"Jules Alphonso."

"What!" I cried. "Jules Alphonso your cousin? I have not seen him for

years. I used to know him so well. Where is he?"

"He lives here in Cuba," she answered.

"Where in Cuba?" I interrupted. "How extraordinary! How much I should like

to see him again!"

"And he, I am sure, would like to see you, he has so often talked about

you to me. I felt directly last night that I knew you; it must have been

intuition."

I think, Mama, you must remember Jules. He was like a second son in our

house, and was an intimate friend of my brother-in-law, and would have

liked to have been a brother-in-law himself if he had been accepted. We

all loved him. How strange to find him here! The last place in the world I

should have dreamed of! I am not sure that I ever knew that he was a

Cuban.

My new friend was wild with joy. "You are the one person that I have

wanted to know all my life, and, fancy, here you are!"

Was it not a curious coincidence to meet _here_, in this out-of-the-way

place, some one who knew all about me?

I repeated, "I must see Jules, and if he is anywhere near I shall

certainly try to find him." "Let us go together," she said. "I will drive

you there, and we will take him by surprise." Two _volantes_ were

immediately before the door, and the Marquise Aldamar, the Captain of the

Port, Laura, and I started for La Rosa, Jules's plantation. It was an

enchanting drive, though a long one, leading, as it did, through avenues

of royal palms, and it was quite six o'clock before we reached Jules's

house. I said to the Marquise Aldamar, "As Jules has no idea that I am in

this part of the world, let me go in alone and surprise him."

We drove up to the entrance of his pretty villa, and the others

accompanied me to the door of the salon with a finger on their lips, so

that the servant should not announce us. We saw Jules sitting at a table

reading. I entered softly and went behind him, and laying my hand on his

shoulder said, "Jules!"

He turned quickly about, and when he saw me he thought I was an apparition

or a dream. "What! What!" he cried, trembling with astonishment.

"It is I--Lillie Moulton," I said, quietly.

"You! you! No, it can't be possible!" And he took hold of my hands as if

to see if they were flesh and blood. "Where did you come from? How did you

get here? What brought you here?" followed in quick succession. The others

pushed aside the curtain and came in. Then followed explanations. I was

obliged to answer thousands of questions, and go into thousands of

details, concerning the family, Paris, the war, and so forth. He ordered

champagne, improvised a little supper for us, and did not seem to be able

to do enough to show his delight at seeing me. But the Captain of the Port

soon reminded us that it was time to be on our way back to Matanzas, as it

was a long drive, and I bade a tearful farewell to lonely Jules. Our

comet-like visit must have seemed to him like a vision, and he watched us,

with eyes full of tears, drive away out of his life. Poor Jules!

In the Courts of Memory, 1858-1875; from Contemporary Letters · 第 127 / 153 题