ASCOT, LONDON, _June, 1870._

DEAR M.,--Viscount Sydney thought that we ought to ask for an audience of

the Princess of Wales, and we did it. The audience was accorded, and we

presented ourselves at the appointed hour and were received by the lady of

honor and shown into the beautifully arranged drawing-room. The Princess

was most gracious; she certainly is the loveliest lady I have ever seen. I

told her we were going to Ascot for the week, and she said that they were

also going there and hoped they would see us. Our interview came to an

end, as such interviews do, without anything very interesting happening,

and, finally, we backed ourselves out of the royal presence.

That evening there was a ball at Lady Waldegrave's, who lives at

Strawberry Hill, a mile or so out of London. Baron Alfred Rothschild

offered to take us out there in his coach and-four. We dined first with

the Baron Meyer Rothschild, and afterward drove out to Strawberry Hill. It

is the most beautiful place you can imagine. I never saw anything so grand

as the cedar-trees.

The cotillon lasted very late; the Duke of Saxe-Weimar talked a long time

with me, mostly about music. He is very musical, and knows Liszt

intimately, and told me a quantity of anecdotes about him. He was

interested in what I told him about Liszt's going to the Conservatoire

with Auber and me, and about the "Tannhäuser" overture incident. It was

six o'clock when we drove back to London. We saw the milk-carts on their

morning rounds and the street-sweepers at work. One felt ashamed of

oneself at being in ball-dress and jewels at this early hour, galloping

through the streets in a fine carriage, making such a dreadful contrast to

the poor working-people.

I had great fun at Lady Harrington's musical _soirée_, where Arthur

Sullivan's "Prodigal Son" was to be sung.

We had been dining at Lady Londonderry's, and arrived rather late at Lady

Harrington's. The whole staircase was crowded with people, and even down

in the hall it was so full of ladies and gentlemen that there was no

question of moving about. However, I made my way as far as the stairs,

every one wondering at my audacity, and I murmured gently:

"May I pass?" There was a chorus of "Quite impossible!" "Perfectly

useless!" and other such discouraging remarks. I said to a gentleman who

sat stolidly on his step:

"Do you think I could send word to Mr. Sullivan that the Prodigal Son's

mother cannot get to him?"

"What do you mean?" said he. "Are you--"

"Yes, I am; and if you don't let me pass you won't have any music."

You should have seen them jump up and make a pathway for me. I marched

through it like the children of Israel through the Red Sea. I was

enchanted to have my little fun. I joined the other performers, and the

mother of the Prodigal Son was received with open arms. The Prodigal Son's

father was pathos itself, and we rejoiced together over our weak tenor-

boy. The only fatted calves that were to be seen belonged to the fat

flunkeys.

We had a beautiful time at Ascot. Alfred Rothschild was an excellent host.

Among the other guests were the Archibald Campbells, the Hochschilds, Mr.

Osbourne, the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle, Hon. and Mrs. Stoner, one of

the ladies of the Queen, Mr. Mitford, and others. Lady Campbell had only

one dress with her (they must be very poor!); it was a black velvet

(fancy, in the middle of summer!). She wore it high-necked for the races

in the daytime and low-necked in the evening. We drove to Ascot every day

at one o'clock. We had seats in the Queen's stand, and after seeing one

race we went to lunch with Mr. Delane, who had open table for one hundred

people every day. Mr. Delane belongs to the _Times_ newspaper.

Baron Rothschild had _carte-blanche_ to bring any guest, or as many as he

liked. The Prince of Wales always lunched there, and any one that was of

importance was sure to be present. I made many new acquaintances, and you

may imagine how I enjoyed this glimpse of a world so entirely unknown to

me. The races at Longchamps, Auteuil, and Chantilly I had seen many times;

but I never saw anything like this exciting and bewildering scene.

The Prince of Wales gave a ball at Cooper's Hill (the house they had hired

for the Ascot week), which was very charming and _sans façon_. I danced

the cotillon with Baron Rothschild and a waltz with the Prince of Wales.

The supper, which we had in the palm-garden, was an elaborate affair. We

drove home in the early morning, just as the day was breaking.

The next day we lunched first at the barracks, and then afterward went to

Virginia Water, where the Princess of Wales had arranged a picnic. There

was boating on the pretty lake and tents on the lawn; tea was served

during the afternoon, and a military band played the whole time. The great

attraction was the echo. We all had to try our voices, and the gentlemen

made bets as to how many times the echo would be heard. Some loud,

piercing voices were repeated as many as eight times.

Here we bid our kind host good-by and took the train for Twickenham. We

passed the night with Mr. and Mrs. Hoffman at their villa. The next day we

were invited to a croquet-party and dinner by the Count and Countess de

Paris.

We arrived at Twickenham Court at four o'clock, and began playing our game

directly. Mrs. Hoffman had been praising me to the Countess de Paris to

such a degree that she was fired with ambition to play against a

"champion" of the first water, When we appeared on the ground I noticed

that the Countess had a small ivory mallet. "This," I said to myself, "is

a foregone conclusion; any one who plays with a fancy mallet, and that of

ivory, is sure to be beaten." And in my conceit I thought I need not give

myself much trouble about the game. Alas! I never appreciated the saying

that "pride has a fall" until that day. At first I played with utter

indifference, I was so sure of winning, and even when the Countess de

Paris walked triumphantly over the ground, carrying everything before her,

I smiled inwardly, saying to myself, "Just wait." But though I played my

very best I never scored a game, and I could not even make a decent

stroke. I felt so discouraged, and I was beaten all to pieces. The dinner

was solemn and impressive, the whole Orléans family being present.

The Prince de Joinville, the Duke de Chartres, and the Count de Paris,

with their wives; in all, about twenty at table. I was disgusted with

myself, provoked at my silly self-assurance, and mortified that I had been

beaten _à plate couture_, which in English means that all my seams had

been turned down and ironed, and all my feathers were drooping.

We were (at least I was) glad to escape at ten o'clock. I don't think I

ever was so tired. The week at Ascot, the picnic at Virginia Water, the

balls, and the late sitting-up at night, all told on my nerves, and

instead of resting at the Hoffmans', I passed a miserable and restless

night.

The following day we returned to London in time to drive out, at one

o'clock, with the Lionel Rothschilds to their country-place. It is the

most magnificent estate; the cedar-trees are particularly beautiful, and

the broad lawn, which stretches out in front of the house, is the finest I

have ever seen. Baron Rothschild himself drove the coach and four horses,

and we spun along the fine road, passing Richmond and all the pretty

villas and gardens, which were full of roses. It was my birthday, and I

had many splendid presents. From Baroness Rothschild I received a superb

traveling-bag, all the fittings of silver gilt, with my initials. Baron

Alfred Rothschild gave me a smelling-bottle, with the colors of his

racing-stables in enamel. We had a delightful luncheon, and got back to

London in time for dinner at Lady Sherbourne's. On hearing it was my

birthday, she took a diamond-ring from her finger and gave it to me.

More balls, more dinners, luncheons, and garden-parties followed one

another.

We intend to leave London after the ball at Marlborough House. I must go

home, as I have nothing more to wear. We had accepted an invitation to the

garden-party given by the Princess of Wales at Chiswick (their charming

country-place). All the beauty and elegance of London graced the occasion.

The Princess looked exquisite in her dainty summer toilette, and had a

pleasant smile for every one. The Prince circulated among the guests,

speaking to every one in his usual genial manner. The three little

Princesses looked like three fluffy pink pin-cushions covered with white

muslin. On the extensive lawn, which was like a green-velvet carpet, the

ladies strolled about in their pretty, fresh dresses, sometimes sitting at

the little tables which were shaded by large Japanese umbrellas placed

between the terrace and the walk. It was a garden of living flowers.

The Prince of Wales, in his peculiarly abrupt manner, said to me, "What

have you been doing since Ascot?"

"I have been doing a great deal, sir: dining and dancing and enjoying

myself generally."

"I am glad to know that. Been singing?"

"Not much, sir. We dined at Twickenham Court, where I played a disastrous

game of croquet," I answered.

"Do they play croquet at Twickenham Court?"

"Indeed they do, sir. The Countess de Paris plays a very good game."

"What day did you dine there?"

"On the 17th, your Highness," I replied.

"Are you sure it was the 17th you dined there?"

"Yes, I am quite sure. I know it, because it was the day before my

birthday."

"Was it a large dinner?"

"It was rather large. The whole Orléans family was there, and some

others."

"Did you know that they had had a _conseil de famille_ that day?"

"No," I answered; "I heard nothing of it."

The Prince continued: "The whole family signed a petition to the Emperor

Napoleon to be allowed to return to France and serve in the army. Can you

imagine why they want to go back to France when they can live quietly here

and be out of politics?" the Prince said.

"Do you think, sir, that the Emperor will refuse?"

"One never knows," said the Prince. "Qui vivra verra."

The Marlborough ball was very magnificent. The Princess of Wales looked

exquisite. She is very lovely, and has gracious, sweet manners. I don't

wonder that her people adore her; and I think the Prince is just as good

as he can be.

_July, 1870._

On our return from London I remained quietly at delightful Petit Val.

On the 10th of July we received an invitation to a dinner at St. Cloud,

but unfortunately we had promised Baroness Rothschild to spend some days

at Ferrières, and when the invitation came we were obliged to send a

telegram to St. Cloud expressing our regrets. There is such a talk of war,

and so many rumors afloat, that every one is more than excited. Alphonse

Rothschild says that, if there should be a war, it will be a tremendous

one, and that Germany is better prepared than France. "But," said he, "you

ought to know about that, as your brother-in-law Hatzfeldt is in the

secrets of his country."

"That's just it," I answered; "because he is in the secrets of his country

he is the last person to learn anything from, and we (the family) would be

the last to know. But do you think that, if war were really imminent, the

Emperor would think of giving a dinner?" I asked.

"That might be. We don't yet know what the result of Benedetti's interview

with the King of Prussia at Ems will be," the Baron answered.

We stayed at Ferrières until the 14th, and returned to Petit Val, where we

received another invitation to St. Cloud for the 17th, which we accepted.

On the 15th we went to Chamarande, returning to Paris on the following

afternoon. The Duke de Persigny was not at Chamarande, otherwise we should

have been a little more _au courant_ of how desperate things looked in

Paris. The Duchess had a word from the Duke the night before, "and he

seemed," she said, "very despondent." But I remarked, as I did before,

"Things could not be so threatening if they were giving a dinner." "Je n'y

comprends rien," she replied, which was her invariable answer to any doubt

expressed, or when one wanted a direct response.

We got back to town at half-past five, and I soon began dressing for the

dinner. We drove out to St. Cloud, and arrived at the door of the château

just before seven o'clock. What was our astonishment at not seeing any of

the numerous servants who generally were waiting in the vestibule. There

was only one man to be seen.

I began taking off my mantle, still wondering, when Monsieur de Laferrière

came quickly out from one of the salons and said excitedly, "Did you not

receive my letter countermanding the dinner?"

"Countermanding the dinner! What? Then there is no dinner?"

"No," he rejoined; "it has been countermanded."

As our carriage could not yet have got very far off, nothing was easier

than to call it back and return to Paris. And I put on my wrap to depart,

and stood there waiting for the coupé. Then Monsieur de Laferrière came

out again and said, "Her Majesty says that, now that you are here, you had

better stay."

"But," I protested, "it is much better for us to go back."

He looked puzzled and said, "But the Empress desires it; you cannot well

refuse, can you?"

"We will do as you advise."

"Then I advise you to stay," he answered.

And stay we did, and I never regretted anything so much in my life.

When we went into the drawing-room their Majesties were already there. The

Empress came toward me and said kindly, "How do you do?" The Emperor held

out his hand, but did not say a word. He looked so ill and tired. Never

had I seen him look like that! The Prince Imperial seemed preoccupied and

very serious.

Dinner was announced; the Emperor gave his arm to the Empress, and the

Prince gave me his. There was no one beside ourselves and the Household,

perhaps twenty in all, and dinner was served in the small dining-room

looking toward Paris. On the other side of me was Count d'Arjuson, aide-

de-camp to the Emperor.

You may imagine that I wished myself a hundred miles away. The Emperor

never uttered a word; the Empress sat with her eyes fixed on the Emperor,

and did not speak to a single person. No one spoke. The Emperor would

receive telegram upon telegram; the gentleman sitting next to him opened

the telegrams and put them before his Majesty. Every now and again the

Emperor would look across the table to the Empress with such a distressed

look it made me think that something terrible was happening, which was

true. I could not learn much from my surroundings, as dead silence

reigned. The dinner was very simple. How different from the gorgeous

repasts of Compiègne, and how sad every one looked! I was glad when the

signal for leaving the table was given and we re-entered the drawing-room.

The Emperor was immediately surrounded by his gentlemen. The Empress moved

a little way off, but without taking her eyes from her husband. The Prince

Imperial stood by his father, watching him. Then the Empress advanced

toward his Majesty and took his arm to leave the room. Just as she neared

the door she looked at me, turned back, and coming up to where I was

standing held out her hand and said, "Bonsoir." The Emperor stood a moment

irresolutely, then, bowing his head, left the room with the Empress on his

arm, the Prince following.

We bade the _dames d'honneur_ good night and fled, found the coupé before

the entrance, and weren't we glad to get in it and drive away? I never in

my life felt what it was to be _de trop_ and even _deux de trop_. We

reached the Rue de Courcelles at nine o'clock. It was too early to go to

bed, and so I am sitting in my dressing-gown, while Charles has gone to

his club to learn the latest news.

_19th July._

This morning war was declared for sure, and they say that the Emperor is

leaving soon with the Prince. Every one is very confident of the success

of the French Army, and people go about in the streets singing "À Berlin"

to the tune of "Les lampions."

PETIT VAL, _28th July_.

The Emperor, with the Prince, left this morning for Metz, to take the

command of the army. He did not come into Paris, but in order to avoid

demonstrations, noise, etc., had a platform put up on the other side of

the station at St. Cloud, where the Empress and her ladies could say their

adieux without the crowd looking on. The last words the Empress said to

her son were, "Louis, fais ton devoir." She is made the Regent during the

absence of the Emperor.

_30th August_.

It looks now as if there might be war all over France. As it is, the

Prussians are near Paris, and the French are trying to regain the ground

they have lost. The news we get is very contradictory. According to the

French official reports the French Army has been successful all the time.

The English papers probably give the untarnished truth, unfavorable as it

may be to France. Some people say that at the worst there is only a

question of unimportant skirmishes.

We are well out of Paris and safely in Dinard, where Mr. Moulton is

building a new house (we have already two). We left Petit Val rather

precipitately, leaving everything behind us, clothes in wardrobes and

letters in commodes. We shall not be away more than a month.

I can only say that we lead the most peaceful of lives during this time of

war. I will not tell you any news, because it won't be news when you read

it. We are and have been all the time fed on false reports, great placards

pasted up everywhere telling of the French victories, but from our English

papers we know the contrary. It is pitiful to see the poor, half-clad

peasants being drilled on the beach with sticks in their hands instead of

guns. It is the French idea of keeping up the spirits of the army.

I sang in the cathedral last Sunday, and the _quête_ (the money taken),

they said, was a large sum. I doubt it! I know what the _quêtes_ are here.

Anything that can rattle in the bag is good. Buttons are particularly

popular, as no one can see what you put in, and it does not matter.

There was a tremendous storm last night, and many of the slates of the new

villa were blown off. The servants who sleep there thought that the

Germans had come at last, and were frightened out of the few wits they

own.

Madame Gignoux, our neighbor at Petit Val, who is living in her other

château in Brittany, sent a letter to me which I should send to Helen in

Berlin, to be sent to Paul, who is in Versailles, to be sent to Mr.

Washburn, in Paris, who is to give it to Henry at Petit Val. Rather

roundabout way! I can't tell you how much of that sort of thing I am

constantly doing for people who are afraid of doing anything for

themselves; they think every one is a spy or a traitor.

In the Courts of Memory, 1858-1875; from Contemporary Letters · 第 89 / 153 题