The Lyra sent to survey the Island of Loo-choo--Discovery of Port
Melville--Description of that Harbour, and the Villages on its
Banks--Lyra nearly wrecked--Interview with Natives at the South
Point--Return to Napakiang--Behaviour of the Natives at a Seaman's
Funeral--Madera's Character and Conduct--Sociable Habits of the
Natives--Dinner given to the Chiefs of the Island by Captain
Maxwell--Madera's Behaviour on this Occasion--Two Women seen--A Lady
of Rank visits the Boatswain's Wife--Captain Maxwell fractures his
Finger--Loo-choo Surgeon--Concern of the Natives--Visit of the
Prince--Discussion about the King of Loo-choo's Letter--Madera
appears in a new Character--Feast given by the Prince--List of
Supplies given to the Ships--Behaviour of the Prince on taking
Leave--Preparations for Departure--Madera's Distress--Last Interview
with the Chiefs--Brief Memorandums upon the Religion, Manners, and
Customs of Loo-choo--Advice to a Stranger visiting this Island.
As soon as the survey of Napakiang anchorage was completed, and a
perfectly good understanding established with the natives, it was
determined to make a survey of the whole island, and the Lyra was
ordered upon this service. She were absent about a week, during which
period the general chart of the island was constructed. It will be
obvious to every one acquainted with the subject, that, in so short a
time, a very exact survey of the coast of an island nearly sixty miles
long could not have been made: yet, as the weather was in general fine,
and other circumstances favourable, the chart will be found sufficiently
correct for most practical purposes. As the chart and the nautical and
hydrographical details are given in the Appendix, I propose at present
to relate only such particulars of the cruise as seem likely to interest
the general reader.
9th of October.--At daybreak we got under weigh and stood to sea through
a passage discovered by the boats; it was so extremely narrow, that the
least deviation from the course brought us close to the rocks. We were
regulated in steering by two marks on the land, which lie in the same
straight line with the centre of the passage; these it is necessary to
keep always together: but not conceiving that such nicety was required
while sailing out, the marks were allowed to separate, by which we found
ourselves in a minute or two within a few yards of a coral reef, the
ragged tops of which were distinctly seen two or three feet below the
surface, whilst, at the same time, the leadsman on the opposite side
sounded in nine fathoms. This early proof of the danger of navigating
amongst coral, by teaching us the necessity of extreme caution, was of
great importance to us in our future operations.
As the coast lying between Napakiang and the Sugar Loaf had already been
examined, we proceeded at once round that island, which, from its having
the same aspect on every bearing, and being quite different in shape
from any land in this quarter, is an excellent land-mark for navigators.
The natives call it Eegooshcoond, or castle[11]. The English name was
given, I believe, by Captain Broughton.
Having rounded this peak and stood in for the north-west side of the
Great Loo-choo, where there is a deep bight, a small island was observed
close in shore, behind which it was thought there might be shelter for
ships; the coast, however, being unknown to us, it was not thought safe
to carry the brig very close in, and a boat was therefore dispatched
with an officer to reconnoitre: he returned at eight o'clock to say that
there was a harbour in the main land, the entrance to which lay on the
inside of the small island mentioned before; but that the passages were
narrow and winding, and that a more careful examination was necessary
before the brig could venture in.
11th of October.--In the morning we again stood in, using the
precaution of sending a boat a-head to sound the way; when we had nearly
reached the entrance we anchored, and proceeded in three boats to
examine the harbour discovered last night. As it was near noon when we
passed the small island, we landed and observed the meridian altitude of
the sun; after which we entered the harbour in the main island, by an
intricate passage of about a quarter of a mile in length, and at one
place not two hundred yards wide. Here we found ourselves in a circular
bason upwards of half a mile across, with deep water, and completely
sheltered from all winds. On its western shore we saw a large and
beautiful village almost hid amongst trees, with a high wooded range
behind it stretching to the south. The eastern shore was low and laid
out in salt fields, with a few huts here and there. At first sight this
bason did not appear to have any outlet except by the one we had
examined; but on rowing to its upper or southern side, we found that it
joined by a narrow channel with another harbour still larger, and if
possible more beautiful than the first, for here the land was high on
both sides, and richly wooded from top to bottom. Proceeding onwards
through this bason, which had all the appearance of an inland lake, we
came to another outlet, not above a hundred yards wide, formed by cliffs
rising abruptly out of the water to the height of a hundred feet. Both
sides being covered with trees, which almost met overhead, the space
below was rendered cool and pleasant, and the water, thus sheltered from
every wind, was as smooth as glass. We rowed along for some time by
various windings through this fairy scene in total uncertainty of what
was to come next, and at last, after advancing about three miles, it
opened into an extensive lake several miles in length, studded with
numerous small islands.
The depth of water in the lake varied from four to six fathoms; but in
the narrow neck which connects it with the sea the depth is from ten to
twenty fathoms, being deepest at the narrowest parts. Ships might ride
in any part of this extraordinary harbour, in perfect safety during the
most violent tempests: and the shores are so varied, that every purpose
of re-equipment might be served. At some places natural wharfs are
formed by the rocks, and eight and ten fathoms water close to them.
Ships might lie alongside these places, or might heave down by them:
there are also shallow spots on which ships might be careened. Many of
the cliffs are hollowed into caves, which would answer for storehouses;
and in the numerous lawns on both sides encampments might be formed of
any number of people.
We rowed directly across, and landed at the southern side at the foot
of a wooded range of hills, which forms the southern boundary of the
lake. As no road was observed, it was resolved to go directly up the
hill, and, in about an hour, after a good deal of scrambling amongst the
bushes and long grass, we gained the top, where we found a neat pathway
with a ditch on each side, and a hedge growing on the top of the mound,
formed of the earth from the ditch; it resembled not a little an English
lane. Without knowing where this might take us to, we followed it, in
the hope of meeting some of the people, but in this we were
disappointed. Yet this place must, at times, be frequented, as we
observed a number of similar paths leading to the right and left.
The trees on this range of hills are low, and of no great beauty; the
fir is the most common, but we did not know the names of the rest. After
walking about a mile, our path took an abrupt turn down the brow of the
hill, and appeared to lead to a large village at some distance. The view
from this elevation was very satisfactory, as it enabled us to check our
rough eye draught of the harbour and coast. The road down the hill was
so steep that it was just possible to stand upon it, being inclined, as
was conjectured on the spot, at an angle of 45º. At the foot of the hill
there was a little cottage, consisting of two parts, made of wattled
rattans, connected by a light open bamboo roof, so covered with a large
leaved creeper as to afford a complete shelter from the sun. The
cottage, which was thatched, was enveloped in creepers, encircled by the
usual rattan fence at two or three yards distance. One of the wings was
occupied by goats; the other, which was dark, seemed to belong to the
people, who had deserted it on our approach. There being only a small
hole in the wall to admit light and air, and to allow the smoke to
escape, every thing inside was black and dirty. Two spears hung on one
side, which, upon enquiry afterwards, we were told were for striking
fish.
On coming to our boats, we found them surrounded by a party of the
natives, smaller in stature than our friends at Napakiang, and shewing
less curiosity: probably their surprise at our sudden appearance had not
subsided sufficiently to allow of their indulging curiosity in detail. A
large party of them watched attentively while a musket was loaded, and
when pointed over their heads in the air, they seemed aware that
something was going to happen, but from their not shrinking or removing
out of the way, it seemed they knew not what. When it was fired, the
whole party fell as if they had been shot, but rose instantly again, and
looking to the right and left of each other, indulged in a timorous
laugh. A cartridge was given to one man, with which he was nearly
blowing himself up by placing it on his lighted pipe. The officer of the
boat informed us that a gentleman had come to him and offered his horse
to ride; he had dismounted for that purpose, but the horse was
frightened, and would not suffer the officer to get upon him. We saw
this person riding along when we were at the top of the hill; he called
out to us repeatedly, probably to offer his horse, but we thought he
wished to dissuade us from walking over the hill, and accordingly took
no notice of him.
In the meantime Mr. Clifford, who had been unwell, and felt unequal to
the labour of climbing the hill, proceeded in one of the boats towards a
large village on the eastern side of the lake. He was met by a number of
the inhabitants, whose dress and appearance were inferior to what we had
been accustomed to see at Napakiang; on his asking them in Loo-choo for
some water, they gave it cheerfully; but they shewed little curiosity,
and the party which followed wherever he went, seemed to have no other
object than to prevent disturbance. They made no objection to his going
into the village, where he saw in one inclosure a complete farm-yard.
The principal house was closed, but to the offices there was free
access. In the stable were two handsome bay ponies; there was also a
well stocked pig-sty, and a poultry-house. In another quarter stood a
mill for husking corn, consisting of a grooved solid cylinder of wood,
fitting neatly into a hollow cylinder, the sides of which were also
grooved; near this lay a hand flour-mill and several baskets of cotton.
In another part of the court was a granary erected on posts about six
feet above the ground, having billets of fire-wood piled below it. At
another place, under a tree in the village, he saw a blacksmith's anvil
fixed in a block; the forge was of masonry, having an air hole, but the
bellows was wanting.
In the centre of the village stood a building like a temple, surrounded
by a stone wall. It was filled with elegant vases of different shapes
and sizes, closed up and ranged in rows on the floor; the verandah
encircling the building was also covered with vases. According to the
account of the natives, the remains of the dead are deposited in these
jars. Round the building bamboo poles were placed so as to lean against
the thatched roof, having notches cut in them, to which bundles of
flowers were hung, some fresh, others decayed, apparently funereal
offerings; but their exact import Mr. Clifford was not able to learn.
The elegant shape of the vases, and the tasteful way in which they were
arranged, with the flowers hanging all round, gave to this cemetery an
air of cheerfulness, which we are in the habit of thinking unsuitable
to a depository of the dead.
This village, which is at the head of a bay, is sheltered from the north
wind by a row of trees between it and the beach; behind it is sheltered
by a range of hills. A broad road runs between it and the water; trees
are planted among the houses, so as nearly to conceal them. In the
middle of the village near the cemetery, in an open square, there is a
cluster of granaries like the one described above; the walls are made of
wattled rattan, and overhang the lower part.
Mr. Clifford tried in vain to see the Chief of the village; but either
there was no such person, or he was out of the way: the inhabitants
pointed out a man on horseback as a Chief, who passed on to another
village; this was probably the same man who offered his horse to Mr.
Hall, the officer of the boat. Mr. Clifford went to the top of the range
behind the village, and afterwards into the valley on the other side,
which he found highly cultivated.
From the heights we saw that the large space which was at first
considered a lake, communicates with the sea to the north-eastward, as
well as by the narrow passage through which we had come, but there was
not time to allow of its being fully examined. As we returned by the
narrow straits, we called at some of the small villages on the eastern
side. At one of these, the people of the village, headed by a man who
appeared to be superior to the rest, came towards the boat, and stopped
for some minutes at the distance of fifty yards; after which, appearing
to have gained confidence, they came on, with the old man in front,
carrying a green bough in his hand. He would not come close, however,
till invited by Mr. Clifford in Loo-choo to look at the boat; he then
advanced and presented his bough, in return for which we broke a branch
from a tree, and gave it to him with the same formality he had used
towards us. Soon after this exchange was made, they left us, and went to
examine the boat, to fishermen always an object of great interest.
On our entering the village we were met by a man who appeared to be the
principal person of the place; he was very polite, shewed us through the
village, and took us over his garden, where he had some sugar-cane
growing; this we admired very much, upon which he ordered one of the
finest of the canes to be taken up by the roots and presented to us; we
immediately gave him a few buttons off our jackets, with which he was
quite pleased. On its beginning to rain while we were in the garden, he
invited us into his house, which, from the walls being of wattled cane,
looked like a large basket. Rude pictures and carved wood-work figures
were hanging on the walls, together with some inscriptions in Chinese
characters.
On returning to the lower harbour of all, we went to the large village
before spoken of, which is by far the most finished of any that we have
seen on this island. The streets are regular and clean swept; each house
has a neat cane wall, as well as a screen before the door; plantain and
other trees are growing so thickly in the inside of the fence, that they
completely shade the house. Near the beach were several large houses, in
which a number of people were seated writing: on going up to them they
gave us tea and cakes, and afterwards allowed us to go over the village
without restraint; they were curious to know whether the brig was coming
into the harbour or not, and if so, how many days we meant to stay; they
expressed neither pleasure nor regret when we said that we were not
coming in. In front of the village, and parallel with the beach, there
is a splendid avenue thirty feet wide, formed by two rows of large
trees, whose branches join overhead, and effectually screen the walk
from the sun; here and there are placed wooden benches, and at some
places stone seats are fixed near the trees: this space, which is about
a quarter of a mile long, is probably used as a public walk.
A range of hills of a semicircular form embraces the village, and limits
its extent: at most places it is steep, but at the point where the north
end joins the harbour, there is an overhanging cliff about eighty feet
high, the upper part of which extends considerably beyond the base; at
eight or ten yards from the ground on this inclined face, a long
horizontal gallery has been hewn out of the solid rock: it communicates
with a number of small square excavations still deeper in the rock, for
the reception of the vases containing the bones of the dead.
The trees and creepers on the edge of the precipice hung down so as to
meet the tops of those which grew below, and thus a screen was formed
which threw the gallery into deep shade: every thing here being
perfectly still, the scene was very solemn and imposing. It took us
somewhat by surprise, for nothing in its external appearance indicated
the purpose to which the place was appropriated: happening to discover
an opening amongst the trees and brushwood, and resolving to see what it
led to, we entered by a narrow path winding through the grove. The
liveliness of the scenery without, and the various amusements of the
day, had put us all into high spirits, but the unexpected and sacred
gloom of the scene in which we suddenly found ourselves had an
instantaneous effect in repressing the mirth of the whole party.
This village is called Oonting, and is certainly the same that is
alluded to by the chiefs, and which we formerly wrote down Winching and
Oonching.
This excellent harbour, which we discovered, has been named Port
Melville, in honour of Lord Viscount Melville, First Lord of the
Admiralty.
It was quite dark when we reached the brig. As a heavy swell was rolling
in, no time was lost in getting under weigh, but before we could succeed
in running well off the reefs, the wind suddenly changed, and the
weather, which before had been fine, became so dark and squally, that we
almost lost sight of the shore. Our situation was now very critical, for
we had just sufficient knowledge of the coast, to be sensible how
extremely dangerous it was; and the wind, which blew directly on the
shore, came in such violent gusts, that there was every reason to
apprehend the loss of our topmasts; to reef the sails was impossible, as
the delay which this operation must have caused would have been fatal.
While things were in this state, it became necessary to tack, but owing
to the heavy and irregular swell, the brig came round again against our
will, and before the sails could be properly trimmed, she had gone stern
foremost almost to the verge of the reef, on which the sea was breaking
to a great height. Had this occurred a second time, nothing could have
prevented our being wrecked. After beating about in this awkward
predicament for two hours, the wind shifted a little, and enabled us to
stretch off clear of all danger.
12th of October.--It blew so hard that we kept out at sea clear of the
shore.
13th of October.--As the weather had become moderate, we stood in, and
determined the position of five islands which lie to the northward of
Port Melville.
14th of October.--During this day the whole of the east side of the
great island was explored. The north and north-east sides are high, and
destitute of cultivation; nearly in the middle, on this side, there is a
deep indenture on the coast, and the wind being such as to admit of
sailing out again, we ran in under low sail with the usual precautions;
notwithstanding which we were very nearly on the reefs, for the water
shoaled suddenly from twenty-four to eight fathoms; and although the
brig was instantly tacked, the soundings as she came round were only
five fathoms, and to leeward of us the ragged tops of a rock just level
with the surface were discovered at the distance of only fifty yards. In
exploring such places there ought to be a boat on each bow, as well as
one a-head. The coast from this bay to the south point of the island has
a belt of coral reefs at the distance of ten and fifteen miles from the
shore, and therefore cannot be approached by a ship without great
danger. The extreme south point is comparatively clear of coral; we
therefore anchored off it at sunset, proposing to land next day to
determine its position. We found the iron cables of great use when
anchoring amongst coral reefs.
15th of October.--It blew hard last night, but in the forenoon it
moderated sufficiently to allow of our landing. We ascertained the
latitude of the extreme south point with precision, and made several
other observations, all circumstances being favourable.
We had scarcely landed when the natives began to assemble in groups on
the top of the cliffs, and in a short time they came down to us, most of
them carrying long poles in their hands; we were sufficiently aware of
their inoffensive character to have no apprehension of their intentions,
otherwise their appearance would have been somewhat formidable. There
was no person of rank among them; they were communicative and full of
curiosity, which difference in manner from the inhabitants on the shores
of Port Melville may have arisen from these people knowing something of
us by reports from Napakiang, which is not above ten miles distant. It
was to be expected that we should have become a topic of discourse at
so short a distance, and probably what was said of us would be
favourable, or at all events such as would excite curiosity rather than
fear. Most of these people had fish spears tatooed on their arms in the
form of a trident, with rude barbs. When drawn on the right arm it is
called "Oodeemaw;" when on the left, "Tooga." This is the only instance
we have met with of this practice. Our curiosity was farther excited by
the appearance of these spears, from the circumstance of our never
having seen any warlike weapon on this island; but the people invariably
called them "Eeo stitchee" (fish spear). Several of the tallest of these
people were measured, but none were above five feet six inches; they
are, however, strong limbed and well proportioned. One of them wore a
ring on his finger, which is the only instance we have met with of any
ornament being worn at Loo-Choo. The ring finger is called in the
Loo-choo language, "Eebee gannee," finger of the ring; and it seems a
fair inference from this, that amongst some part of the community rings
are habitually worn; probably by the women. The coast here is formed of
cliffs, about seventy or eighty feet high, with numerous caverns
hollowed out by the waves. The pools of water left by the tide were full
of beautiful fish of a great variety of colours.
16th of October.--In the morning we weighed and stood to the westward,
among the group of islands called Amakirrima by the natives. At one of
these there seemed at first sight to be a harbour for ships; but on
sending the boats to explore, it proved only safe for small vessels
being filled in every part with coral. On our way across from the south
point of the great island to the Amakirrimas, we passed near a coral
reef exactly circular, and half a mile in diameter; it is just level
with the water's edge at half ebb, so that in fine weather the sea does
not break upon any part of it. As it is upwards of seven miles from any
land, and lies directly in the passage towards Napakiang, it is
exceedingly dangerous, and ought not to be approached in the night by a
stranger.
At four o'clock we anchored in our old place in-shore of the Alceste. As
we stood towards the anchorage we could see the coral from the mast-head
so distinctly as to be able to trace the forms of all the reefs as we
passed among them. This can rarely be done, although the water is always
clear, because an unusual degree of smoothness in the surface is
requisite to make the rocks visible; and the sun must also shine upon
the water at a particular angle. A stranger cannot therefore calculate
upon having the danger pointed out in this way; but when such
circumstances do occur they may be taken advantage of to check the
surveys of reefs made in boats.
We find things at Napakiang nearly as we left them; the best
understanding seems to exist between Captain Maxwell and the chiefs.
Every body is allowed to walk about and do as he likes. The frigate has
been bountifully supplied with stock and vegetables; and the sick on
shore are rapidly recovering under the kind care of the natives, who
take a peculiar interest in their comfort.
A young man belonging to the Alceste had died during our absence. When
the natives were informed of this circumstance, they requested
permission to make the grave, and begged Captain Maxwell to point out a
place for this purpose. Captain Maxwell said that no situation could be
more appropriate than under the grove of trees near the temple, a spot
already rendered sacred by many Loo-choo tombs.
Next day the body was carried to the grave with all the formalities
usual on such occasions, Captain Maxwell, according to custom, walking
last, with the officers and crew before him. The ready politeness of the
natives was never more strikingly displayed than now; for perceiving
that those who were of the highest rank walked in the rear, they
considered that their station must of course be in front; and they
accordingly placed themselves at the head of the procession, and
preserved throughout the ceremony the most profound silence. They were
all dressed in white robes, which we have reason to believe is their
mourning.
On the next day the natives requested leave to raise a tomb over the
grave; this was of course agreed to, and when it was completed, they
performed their own funeral service over it, by sacrificing a large hog,
and burning a quantity of spirits. Jeeroo officiated on this occasion,
and when he had done, he carried the hog to the sick in the hospital.
The chiefs also gave directions for a small square stone to be smoothed
and prepared for an epitaph; which being traced upon the stone by Mr.
Taylor, the clergyman of the Alceste, was carved very neatly by the
natives. The epitaph, after mentioning the name and age of the deceased,
stated briefly, that he and his companions in his Britannic majesty's
ships Alceste and Lyra, had been kindly treated by the inhabitants of
this island. When the purport of the writing was interpreted to the
chiefs, they appeared very much gratified at our acknowledging their
attentions.
18th of October.--Our friends expressed much pleasure on meeting us
again, particularly Jeeroo, who seems to take great interest in our
concerns: he carried us up to the sailor's tomb, where we were joined by
Ookooma, Jeema, and some of the others, who unaffectedly expressed
their sorrow for this man's untimely fate. I found my people who had
been landed previous to our sailing on the survey, much recovered, and
very grateful for the kindness of the natives. Milk, eggs, meat, and
vegetables, had been brought to them every day, and whenever they felt
disposed to walk they were accompanied by one or two of the natives, who
took their arms on coming to rough ground, and often helped them up the
steep side of the hill behind the hospital, to a pleasant grassy spot on
the summit, where the natives lighted pipes for them: in short, I
suppose sailors were never so caressed before.
The chiefs were anxious to know what we had been doing during the week
in which we had been absent. From an apprehension that they might be
displeased at our having instituted a regular examination of the whole
island, we said we had been looking at the harbour they had spoken of;
they immediately mentioned the village of Oonting, and asked how we
liked it. But they guessed that we had been round the island, from
seeing that we returned by the south, though we had sailed to the north;
they said repeatedly, that the island was very small, appearing to be
anxious to depreciate it; our reply of course was, that it was very
large and beautiful.
Madera has made great improvement in English, and his character is
altogether more developed. He is quite at his ease in our company, and
seems to take the most extraordinary interest in every thing belonging
to us; but his ardent desire to inform himself on all subjects sometimes
distresses him a good deal; he observes the facility with which we do
some things, and his enterprising mind suggests to him the possibility
of his imitating us; but when he is made sensible of the number of steps
by which alone the knowledge he admires is to be attained, his despair
is strongly marked. He sometimes asks us to read English aloud to him,
to which he always listens with the deepest attention. One day, on
shore, he saw me with a book in my hand: he begged me to sit down under
a tree, and read: Jeeroo was the only chief present, but there were
several of the peasants in attendance upon him; they all lay down on the
grass, and listened with an attention and interest which are natural
enough: every one expressed himself pleased and satisfied except Madera,
whose anxiety was to read in the same manner himself. From the earnest
way in which he inquired into every subject, we were sometimes inclined
to think that he must have been directed by the government to inform
himself on these topics; and certainly a fitter person could not have
been selected; for he adapted himself so readily to all ranks, that he
became at once a favourite, and every person took pleasure in obliging
him.
Jeeroo is esteemed in another way; he is uniformly good humoured and
obliging, and not without curiosity; but he is not clever, and has none
of the fire and enthusiasm of Madera. We all think kindly of Jeeroo, and
shake him cordially by the hand when we meet him; but Madera is admired
and respected, as well as esteemed, and his society is courted for his
own sake.
Madera is about twenty-eight years of age, of a slender figure, and very
active; his upper teeth project in front over the lower ones, giving his
face a remarkable, but not a disagreeable expression. He is always
cheerful, and often lively and playful, but his good sense prevents his
ever going beyond the line of strict propriety. When required by
etiquette to be grave, no one is so immoveably serious as Madera, and
when mirth rules the hour, he is the gayest of the gay: such indeed is
his taste on these occasions, that he not only catches the outward tone
of his company, but really appears to think and feel as they do. His
enterprising spirit and versatility of talent have led him to engage in
a number of pursuits; his success, however, is the most remarkable in
his acquisition of English. About a month after our arrival, he was
asked what had become of his companion Anya; he replied, "Anya, him
mother sick, he go him mother house;" and when asked if he would return,
he said, "Two, three day time, him mother no sick, he come ship." With
all these endowments and attainments he is unaffectedly modest, and
never seems aware of his being superior to the rest of his countrymen.
We were a long time in doubt what was his real rank; for at first he
kept himself back, so that he was well known to the midshipmen, before
the officers were at all acquainted with him: he gradually came forward,
and though he always wore the dress of the ordinary respectable natives,
his manners evidently belonged, to a higher rank, but he never associated
with the chiefs, and disclaimed having any pretensions to an equality
with them. Notwithstanding all this, there were occasional
circumstances, which, by shewing his authority, almost betrayed his
secret. One morning a difficulty arose about some supplies which the
chiefs had engaged to procure, but which they had neglected to send; as
soon as Madera was told of the circumstance, he went to Captain Maxwell,
and undertook to arrange it to his satisfaction, at the same time
begging that if any difficulty occurred in future, he might be applied
to. Whatever may be Madera's rank in his own society, it is highly
curious to discover in a country so circumstanced, the same politeness,
self-denial, and gracefulness of behaviour which the experience of
civilized nations has pointed out as constituting the most pleasing and
advantageous form of intercourse.
The great interest which Madera took in the English, and the curiosity
he always expressed about our customs at home, suggested the idea of
taking him with us to England, where he would have been an interesting
specimen of a people so little known; and he also might have carried
back knowledge of the greatest use to his country. When it was proposed
to him, he paused for some minutes, and then, shaking his head, said, "I
go Injeree,--father, mother, childs, wife, house, all cry! not go; no,
no, all cry!"
In our absence a number of watch-houses had been erected on the heights
round the anchorage; they are mere sheds of cane thatched over, in which
three or four of the natives remain, day and night, in order to be ready
to accompany any person who may happen to land, wherever it be. They
have also erected a long shed, with a floor of split bamboo; in this
place, which is on the top of the hill above the usual landing place,
the chiefs generally assemble in the morning; they invite every one who
passes to drink tea and smoke pipes, which is very convenient when the
boats happen not to be ready to take us on board. Each of the chiefs is
attended by a boy, generally his son, whose business it is to carry a
little square box, in which there are several small drawers, divided
into compartments, filled with rice, sliced eggs, small squares of
smoked pork, cakes, and fish; and in one corner a small metal pot of
sackee, besides cups and chopsticks. By having this always with them,
they can dine when and where they choose. They frequently invite us to
dine with them, and if we agree to the proposal, they generally ask any
other of the chiefs whom they meet to be of the party and join dinners.
The place selected for these pic-nics is commonly under the trees, in a
cool spot, where a mat is spread on the grass; and every thing being
laid out in great order, the party lies down in a circle, and seldom
breaks up till the sackee pot is empty.
An artist of the island brought a drawing of the Alceste on board to-day
for Captain Maxwell: it is about two feet by one and a half, and is
altogether a most extraordinary production, in which perspective and
proportion are curiously disregarded. The captain and officers are
introduced in full uniform, and a number of the sailors on the rigging
and masts. With all its extravagance, however, it has considerable
merit; there is nothing slovenly about it, and there is enough of truth
in it to shew that it was sketched on the spot.
A dispute has arisen between John the interpreter and the chiefs, who it
seems had positively promised to get a horse for Captain Maxwell to
ride; as they have not kept their word, John declares that he will have
nothing to say to people who do not speak truth. They have again
promised, however, that a horse will be got ready, and in the mean time,
a fresh stock of beef and vegetables has been sent to both ships, which
has pacified John a little. We have had much occasion to lament not
having been accompanied by one of the gentlemen of the factory
acquainted with the Chinese language, for although to have John is much
better than to be without any interpreter, it is probable that he is not
very delicate in his requests, and makes use of expressions and
arguments unsuited to our character, and contrary to our wishes and
instructions.
19th of October.--In the morning, before breakfast, Captain Maxwell was
informed by one of the chiefs, that a horse was ready for him on the
beach; he landed accordingly, and found a little pony saddled, and two
of the chiefs mounted. They objected to his riding in the country, where
the roads were uneven, so that for the present his ride was confined to
the beach. The saddle is made of wood, and so uneven as to be very
unpleasant: it is proposed to have one made of a blanket and mats in
future. To the stirrup there is tied a box, large enough to receive the
whole foot.
A dinner was given to-day by Captain Maxwell to the chiefs Ookooma,
Shayoon, Issacha Sandoo, Jeema, and Issacha Hackeeboocoo; Jeeroo was
also invited to it, but did not attend; being the junior, he had
probably been left in charge of the beach and store-rooms. Madera also
made one of the party, though not originally included in the invitation.
As he had never laid any claim to an equality in rank with the chiefs,
it had not been thought right to invite him along with them: but Madera,
who probably knew that he would be very welcome, put himself in Captain
Maxwell's way just before dinner, and was prevailed upon, after a little
persuasion, to remain.
Dinner was served at five o'clock in as sumptuous a style as possible.
Ookooma was placed on Captain Maxwell's right, and Shayoon on his left;
I sat beside the former, and Mr. Clifford next the other; then the two
chiefs next in rank, and beside them two of the officers of the ship:
the first lieutenant, Mr. Hickman, sat at the foot of the table, with
Hackeeboocoo on his right, and Madera on his left. They were all in
great spirits, and ate and drank freely, and though they complained of
the size of the glasses, and of the strength of the wine, tasted every
thing from punch to champagne: the briskness of the last indeed
surprised them not a little, and effectually muddled two of them for
some time. Cheese was the only thing they all objected to, probably on
account of its being made of milk, which they never taste. The
interpreter not being present, the conversation was carried on through
Mr. Clifford and Madera, and partly by signs. Whether intelligibly or
not, every body was talking. Madera has dined often on board the ship,
and is quite perfect in our customs. On this occasion he took great
charge of the chiefs at his end of the table, speaking sometimes in one
language and sometimes in the other. Observing Jeema eating ham without
mustard, he called to Captain Maxwell's servant, and pointing to Jeema,
said, "Tom, take mustard to him." When the desert was put on table, and
the wine decanters ranged in a line, they exclaimed in astonishment,
"Moo eeyroo noo sackee," six kinds or colours of wine; but the
sweetmeats and prepared confectionary pleased them most.
After sitting about an hour and a half after dinner, and drinking with
tolerable spirit, they rose to depart; but this they were not allowed to
do, and they were informed that it was the English custom to sit a much
longer time. They represented that the sun had set, and they would never
be able to find their way on shore, but would all be drowned in
attempting it. This alarming difficulty was easily overruled by a
promise of the barge, and they sat down again. While the discussion was
going on between Captain Maxwell and his guests, Madera kept his seat,
and looked about him in his keen observant way, to discover, if he
could, what was likely to be the issue of this adventure. Having
observed that in general we were anxious to keep our company at table as
long as we could, he naturally enough thought that we would not let this
opportunity pass of entertaining the chiefs according to our fashion. He
appeared to have settled this question with himself just as the chiefs
resumed their seats, for rising half off his chair, and with a mixture
of archness and simplicity, as if he had made an amusing discovery,
cried out in English, "When all drunk then go ashore!" Though Madera, as
will be seen, was not quite right in his guess, there was enough of
truth in his remark to raise a hearty laugh among those who understood
him; and as he joined in this laugh at his own joke, it was some time
before he could explain what he had said to the chiefs, who, being in a
merry humour themselves, took it in perfect good part, though their
mirth was evidently dashed by a little apprehension of the fate which
Madera had anticipated for them.
The health of his Royal Highness the Prince Regent was then given, all
the company standing in the most respectful manner. This was followed by
the health of the King of Loo-choo, which was drank with similar
observances. On sitting down after the latter toast, the chiefs
conferred a few minutes across the table, and then all rose to propose
Captain Maxwell's health; their wishes being explained by Madera. When
they sat down, Captain Maxwell proposed the health of Ookooma and the
other chiefs, but as we in return stood up to drink to them, their
modesty disclaimed this part of the compliment, and they rose likewise;
nor was it till a good deal of persuasion had been used, that they
consented to be seated while we were standing.
These four bumpers made the party very merry, and it now was intimated
to them, that as all the usual formalities had been observed, they might
drink just as much as they liked, or pass the bottle altogether; a
permission of which few of them took advantage. They lighted their
pipes, laughed, joked, and seemed so happy, that it was agreed on all
hands, that conviviality is no where better understood than at Loo-choo.
After a time, at our request, they played some games, of which we had
heard them speak. The object of these games was drinking; a cup of wine
being the invariable forfeit. That every thing might be in character
during the games, some of their own little cups were put on table. One
person holds the stalk of his tobacco-pipe between the palms of his
hands, so that the pipe rolls round as he moves his hands, which he is
to hold over his head, so as not to see them. After turning it round for
a short time, he suddenly stops, and the person to whom the bowl is
directed has to drink a cup of wine. Another is a Chinese game: one
person holds his hand closed over his head, he then brings it quickly
down before him with one or more fingers extended; the person he is
playing with calls out the number of them, and if he guesses right, he
has to drink the cup of wine. These and other games caused a good deal
of noisy mirth, and at length it was proposed by them to go out, in
order to look at the sailors who were dancing on deck. Before leaving
the cabin, they shewed us a Loo-choo dance round the table: Madera
placed himself at the head before Ookooma, while the others ranged
themselves in a line behind him; he began by a song, the air of which
was very pretty, and nearly at the same time commenced the dance, which
consisted principally in throwing the body into a variety of postures,
and twisting the hands about. Sometimes the hands were placed flat
together, at others separate, but generally the former; the movements
both of the body and hands were regular and of a waving description. The
head was made to incline slowly from side to side, so as almost to
touch the shoulders; the feet were moved with a slight shuffling motion,
with an occasional long sweeping step to one side and then back again;
but the perfection of the dance appeared to be in the proper use of the
hands and body. The words of the dance song were "Sasa sangcoomah,
sangcoomee ah! sangcoomee ah! kadee yooshee daw;" when they came to the
last word they all joined in the chorus and clapped their hands.
Although Madera was the leader both in the dance and song, he was
occasionally joined in the latter by several of the others, the whole
party repeating the last word several times over. In this way they went
several times round the table. Madera had a graceful carriage, and his
dancing, though fantastic, was really elegant; his singing too was in
good taste. The others danced clumsily, though in perfect good time, and
joined with some spirit in the chorus.
The ship was illuminated, and the sailors were dancing on the upper
deck. The chiefs were much pleased with this scene, which was lively
enough. After watching the dance of the sailors for a few minutes,
Madera, who, to use a common phrase, "was up to every thing," ran among
the sailors, and seizing one of them by the shoulders, put him out of
the dance, took his place, and kept up the reel with the same spirit,
and exactly in the same style and step as the sailors. The other dances
were left off, and the whole ship's company assembling round Madera,
cheered and clapped him till the dance was done. The chiefs joined in
the applause, seeming no less surprised than ourselves at Madera's
skill, for his imitation of the sailors' odd steps and gestures was as
exact as if he had lived amongst seamen all his life. The officers then
danced a country dance, after which the chiefs, unasked, and with a sort
of intuitive politeness, which rendered every thing they did
appropriate, instantly stepped forward and danced several times round
the quarter-deck, to the infinite gratification of the sailors.
On returning to the cabin to tea, they were all in high spirits, and
while amusing themselves with a sort of wrestling game, Ookooma, who had
seen us placing ourselves in the boxer's sparring attitudes, threw
himself suddenly into the boxer's position of defence, assuming at the
same time a fierceness of look which we had never before seen in any of
them. The gentleman to whom he addressed himself, thinking that Ookooma
wished to spar, prepared to indulge him; but Madera's quick eye saw what
was going on, and by a word or two made him instantly resume his wonted
sedateness. We tried in vain to make Madera explain what were the
magical words which he had used to Ookooma. He appeared anxious to turn
our thoughts from the subject, by saying, "Loo-choo man no fight;
Loo-choo man write--no fight, no good, no, no. Ingerish very good, yes,
yes, yes; Loo-choo man no fight." Possibly he considered that Ookooma
was taking too great a liberty; or, perhaps, he thought even the
semblance of fighting unsuitable with the strict amity subsisting
between us.
Before they went away, Captain Maxwell, who had remarked the
satisfaction with which the chiefs received any attention shewn to their
children, ordered a large cake to be brought him, which he divided into
portions for the family of each. The chiefs were in a proper mood to
feel this kindness, and they expressed themselves, as may be supposed,
very warmly upon the occasion. When they put off for the shore they
began singing, and never left off till they landed.
20th of October.--The forenoon was passed at the Observatory, and
afterwards we walked in the country without being observed, for the
chiefs had not yet recovered from the effects of last night's gaiety:
but we had not gone a mile before Jeeroo overtook us. We were very
anxious to gain the brow of a neighbouring hill, from which we imagined
there would be a good view of the palace; but although Jeeroo was the
most obliging creature in the world on every other occasion, he was
resolute now in not letting us go far beyond our usual limits; we tried
to overrule his objections by telling him that we should do no
mischief, and would not go farther than the adjoining height. He would
listen, however, to nothing; and as we still walked slowly on, he at
last sent off a messenger for assistance, but before this reinforcement
arrived we had turned back, to Jeeroo's great relief. Although the
object proposed had not been accomplished, we got a better sight of the
palace than we had yet obtained. It is so much enclosed by trees that
parts only can be seen, but it is undoubtedly a very large building. On
returning we met Hackeeboocoo, the fat chief, coming puffing and blowing
up the hill; he had set out to overtake us on being told by Jeeroo's
messenger what we were proposing to do. He had drank a good deal of wine
yesterday on board, and said he had been "weetee" (drunk), and that his
head ached very much. After he joined us we passed near a village, where
we met two women at the turning of a road: they did not see us till
within a few yards, and their alarm was great; they threw down the
baskets, which they were carrying on their heads, and fled into the
wood. Our two companions were very uneasy at this rencontre, and would
not listen to our reasoning upon the absurdity of their apprehensions,
looking quite miserable till the subject, which seems to be an
interdicted one, was changed. We went afterwards to the high ground
behind the hospital, in order to fill up by eye the edges of the reefs
in our charts, for which regular triangles could not be taken in the
survey. While I was thus engaged, Mr. Clifford endeavoured to learn from
Jeeroo whether or not the King lived in the large house spoken of
before; Jeeroo as usual denied any knowledge of the King, and could not
be prevailed upon to say what the house was, or who resided there; a
peasant, however, who happened to be along with us was more
communicative, and was giving all the information desired, when Jeeroo,
observing what he was about, reprimanded him sharply. On coming down
from the height we found all the chiefs seated in a long room erected on
the outside of the garden gate: they were very merry on the subject of
last night's adventure.
21st of October.--While Mrs. Loy was employed at the well to-day washing
clothes, at a moment when every body else was out of the way, she was
visited by a Loo-choo lady, accompanied by a numerous guard of men. She
describes her as being about eighteen years of age, well dressed, fair
in complexion, with small dark eyes, and not without beauty; her hair
was of a glossy jet black, made up into a knot on one side of the head.
She wore a girdle tied at the side, and had on sandals like the men.
Mrs. Loy wished to touch her, but she shrunk back in alarm. Whether
these details be quite correct or not, the circumstance of a lady of
rank having visited Mrs. Loy is so far interesting as it denotes a
considerable degree of curiosity on the lady's part, together with the
power of gratifying it, which, in a country where the women are strictly
secluded, perhaps would not be allowed.
22d of October.--Ookooma and Jeeroo came to the Observatory to-day,
together with a number of the most respectable of the natives; they were
desirous of seeing the reflected images of the sun in the artificial
horizon through the telescope of the sextant. As this was placed on a
stand there was no difficulty in satisfying their curiosity, for they
had only to place their eye to the tube, the angle having been
previously arranged. Many of them were amused by the changes of colour
in the reflected images by means of the different shades; others were
more struck with the apparent motion of the two suns, which is very
perceptible when a high magnifying power is used; a few endeavoured to
understand the meaning of what they saw, but with the exception of
Jeeroo, I think they had no conception of its cause. Jeeroo appeared to
have some notion of astronomy; his idea of eclipses was more accurate
than could have been expected. From him Mr. Clifford got the names of
the days and months, and the various points of information respecting
Time, which will be found in the Vocabulary. Whenever we were actually
taking observations, the natives invariably remained at a considerable
distance. They had been told that the least motion disturbed the surface
of the quicksilver, and prevented our taking observations. They had much
patience, and sometimes sat quite still and silent for several hours,
till invited to come forward to look at the instruments. When Ookooma
and Jeeroo came to us, we observed that they were in great distress, and
upon our asking the cause, the former explained that Captain Maxwell
during his ride this morning had fallen down, or rather that his horse,
which was too weak for his weight, had fallen with him, and that his
finger was broken: "Tayin ma tawrittee, Tayin no eebee ootee" (the
Tayin's horse fell, Tayin's finger broke). A Loo-choo doctor, he said,
had gone on board, who would soon cure it.
On going to the Alceste we found that the Loo-choo surgeon had placed
Captain Maxwell's broken finger in a thick paste made of eggs, flour,
and some other substance which he brought along with him. He then
wrapped the whole in the skin of a newly-killed fowl. This skin dried in
a short time and held the paste firm, by which the broken finger was
kept steady. The doctor went through a number of ceremonies, such as
feeling the pulse, looking at the tongue, and so on. He had a box along
with him, containing upwards of a hundred medicines.
Captain Maxwell mentioned, that while he was sitting in a shed after the
accident, he was surprised to see a person enter the door crawling on
all fours, and half dead with terror. This it appeared was the surgeon,
who had been sent for by the chiefs. He was horror-struck at the
accident, but soon recovered himself on observing Captain Maxwell's
perfect tranquillity.
Captain Maxwell's gentleness and forbearance, and his uniform attention
to the wishes of the natives, and the great personal kindness which he
had shewn to so many of them, had very early won their confidence and
esteem. As our intercourse became more intimate, these feelings
naturally became stronger, and the concern which the natives felt upon
this occasion was very general, and was expressed, not only by Madera
and the chiefs, but by the lower orders, in a manner highly flattering
to Captain Maxwell.
23d of October.--A deputation of the chiefs went on board the Alceste
early this morning to say, that the Prince of the island, who was the
next person in rank to the King, and heir to the throne, meant to come
on board the frigate this afternoon, as well for the purpose of paying
a visit of ceremony, as of enquiring into the state of Captain Maxwell's
health after the accident.
At noon the four senior chiefs, dressed in their state robes and
hatchee-matchees, came to announce the Prince's approach, and in about
half an hour afterwards he was brought in a closed sedan-chair to the
boat, through a concourse of people, to whom he seemed as much a show as
to us. The state boat was a large flat-bottomed barge, covered with an
awning of dark blue, with white stars on it, the whole having much the
appearance of a hearse. It was preceded by two boats bearing flags with
an inscription upon them, having in the bow an officer of justice
carrying a lackered bamboo, and in the stern a man beating a gong. A
vast number of boats were in attendance, some bearing presents, and
others following out of mere curiosity. One of the Chiefs came on board
with the Prince's card, which was of red paper forty-eight inches long,
and eleven wide[12], and shortly afterwards the Prince's barge put off
from the shore; upon which the rigging of both ships was manned, and a
salute of seven guns fired; when he came on board he was received with a
guard, and under a like salute. Captain Maxwell, who had been confined
to the cabin ever since his accident, desired me to receive the Prince.
No arrangement having been made with us respecting the ceremony of
reception, I merely took off my hat and bowed: but all the chiefs fell
on their knees the instant he came on the quarter-deck. I took his hand
from one of the chiefs who had assisted him up the accommodation ladder,
and led him to the cabin.
When seated beside Captain Maxwell, the Prince made several anxious
enquiries about his finger, expressing much regret that so disagreeable
an accident should have occurred at Loo-choo. He then called to his
pipe-bearer, and having prepared a pipe, presented it to Captain
Maxwell, who returned him this compliment, by giving him one of his own.
The usual questions as to our ages and families, and various
complimentary speeches, having passed, he said he had heard much of the
wonders of the ship, and should like to see them himself: he rose upon
this and went to the globes, which he examined with great care. He
begged to be shewn Ingeree, Loo-choo, Quantoong (China); Niphon (Japan);
Manilla, and Pekin. The chiefs would not sit down in his presence, and
never spoke to him without kneeling. On his expressing a wish to look at
the different parts of the ship, he was conducted all round the decks.
He observed every thing with attention, but without betraying any great
degree of curiosity: he had heard of the boatswain's wife, and asked to
see her; the lady, in her best dress, was presented to him; he stood for
about half a minute looking at her with a sort of pleased surprise, and
then, as if suddenly recollecting that this was somewhat rude, he drew
his fan from his breast, and with an air of the utmost politeness, held
it towards her, and upon Mrs. Loy curtsying in acknowledgment, he sent
it to her by Madera. He asked to see the fire-engine worked, and
appeared much gratified by seeing the water thrown to so great a
height. He had heard of the African negro, and begged that he might be
sent for. When the black man was brought before him he looked
exceedingly surprised, and probably was in doubt whether the colour was
natural, as one of his people was sent to rub his face, as if to
discover whether it was painted or not. The natives, who had flocked on
board in crowds, fell on their knees whenever the Prince passed.
[Illustration: THE PRINCE of LOO-CHOO.]
On returning to the cabin, the Prince was invited to a collation
prepared for him in the foremost cabin: for a long time he refused to
sit down, nor could we conjecture what his objection was; at length,
however, he complied, while the chiefs, who are neither allowed to sit
down nor eat in his presence, retired to the after-cabin. He tasted
every thing which was offered him, but seemed afraid of the wines,
having probably heard of the proceedings on the evening of the 19th. In
about half an hour he rose and went to the after-cabin; the chiefs and
the people of his suite, to the number of fifteen, then sat down at the
table he had left, and made ample amends for the temperance and
moderation of his royal highness.
As soon as they rejoined the party in the after-cabin, business was
entered upon by Captain Maxwell's returning thanks, in the name of the
English government, for the liberal way in which we had been supplied
with every kind of refreshment, and for the other assistance which had
been given to us. The Prince replied, that the King of Loo-choo was
anxious to do every thing in his power for the King of England's ships.
Upon this Captain Maxwell observed, that he was very desirous of seeing
his majesty, for the purpose of expressing in person his gratitude for
the kindness we had received in this country. The Prince answered, that
it was contrary to the laws and customs of Loo-choo, for any foreigner
to see the king, unless sent by his own sovereign, and charged with
complimentary presents. Coming from such high authority, this assurance
was conclusive, and as nothing further could now be said on the subject,
the hope of opening a communication with this court, which had been so
anxiously desired, seemed now destroyed. The Prince, however,
unexpectedly resumed the subject, by saying that a letter would be
written to the King of England, if Captain Maxwell would undertake to
deliver it; his answer was, that nothing could give him more
satisfaction than being made the bearer of such a communication: that he
had earnestly desired the honour of paying his respects to his majesty,
but from the moment that he had heard that it was contrary to the
customs of the country, he had ceased to think of it. As soon as it was
interpreted that Captain Maxwell was willing to carry the letter alluded
to, and that he no longer urged his desire to see the King, the Prince
rose and pressed Captain Maxwell's hand and mine between his, while all
the chiefs fell on their knees in a circle round us, shewing by the
expression of their countenances, how great the anxiety had been from
which they were relieved by Captain Maxwell's ready acquiescence with
their wishes: the Prince in particular, who had hitherto looked full of
anxiety, became all cheerfulness, and his manner assumed a totally
different character.
The inference from this curious scene is, that the real object of the
Prince's visit was to dissuade Captain Maxwell from urging his request
to be allowed an interview with the King; and we conjectured that the
circumstance of his accident was taken advantage of to pay a visit to
the Alceste, where they naturally thought that the remonstrances of a
man of such high rank as the Heir Apparent to the throne, would carry
more weight than any which had yet been tried.
When the Prince again alluded to the letter, it appeared that it was to
be written by the minister, and not by the King. This altered the case
materially, and Captain Maxwell most respectfully informed the Prince,
that such a letter as he described could not be received, as it would be
an indignity to our sovereign to offer his majesty a letter written by
another king's minister. The Prince at once seemed sensible of the
propriety of what Captain Maxwell had said, and calling the chiefs round
him, entered into a long discussion with them: at the close of which, he
declared himself incompetent to decide upon so important an occasion,
but said that he would consult with the King, whose pleasure would be
communicated in a few days. Captain Maxwell expressed his willingness to
abide by his majesty's decision as far as was consistent with the
respect due to his own sovereign. The Prince seemed entirely satisfied
with this answer, and said something to the chiefs, upon which they
again fell on their knees before Captain Maxwell, notwithstanding all
his efforts to prevent them. Nothing more of any consequence passed.
In the early part of the interview the present was brought in, or at
least such parts of it as were capable of being thus displayed. The
whole consisted of two bullocks, three hogs, three goats, and a quantity
of vegetables and fruit; besides fifteen webs of the cloth of the
island, thirty fans, and twelve pipes. The Prince said he had sent a
present to me, which I found to consist of half the above mentioned
things. He shortly afterwards rose to take leave. The rigging was manned
on his going away, and similar honours were paid him as were shewn when
he came on board.
The Prince of Loo-choo, whose name is Shang Pung Fwee, and title Pochin
Tay Foo, belongs to the highest of the nine orders of chiefs on the
islands, the distinction of which rank is a hatchee-matchee of a pink
ground, with perpendicular rows of black, yellow, blue, white, and green
spots. He was clothed in a robe of light blue silk, lined with silk a
shade lighter, over which he wore a girdle richly embossed with flowers
of gold and different coloured silks: in other respects his dress was
like that of the chiefs. He is about fifty years old, his beard is full
and white, and his figure well proportioned. In manners he is genteel
and sedate, but occasionally a little awkward, which his retired habits
sufficiently account for. Towards the close of his visit, when his
reserve had in some degree worn off, we observed him smile for an
instant, now and then, with a shrewd expression in his eyes, as if he
was observing what was passing more narrowly than we at first suspected.
It was thought, too, that in making inquiries about different things on
board, he shewed more discrimination than most of those who had preceded
him; but on the whole, there was nothing very interesting in him besides
his rank. While he was looking over the books and other things in the
cabin, a picture of his majesty King George the Third was shewn to him.
As the interpreter was not present, we could not immediately explain who
it was intended to represent, till it occurred to us to join our hands
and bow to it in the Loo-choo manner: the Prince instantly saw what was
meant, and turning towards the picture, made a low and respectful
obeisance.
His suite consisted of several chiefs whom we had not seen before, and
six or seven personal attendants, two of whom stood behind to fan him
and light his pipe. It is curious that these men, who from their dress
and manner were certainly servants, derived a sort of rank from being
about the Prince's person; for when the chiefs sat down to table after
he had left it, they all stood by as if expecting to be invited to sit
down also; but Mr. Clifford, to whom Captain Maxwell had given the party
in charge, having observed how particular they were with respect to the
distinctions of rank, did not think of asking them to be seated, till
Jeema requested him to do so; still suspecting some mistake, he applied
to Madera, who said it was perfectly correct, and they were accordingly
asked to sit down with the rest.
We had never been able to obtain from the natives any clear account of
former visitors, and as the Prince was thought a likely person to be in
possession of the desired information, questions were asked him upon
this subject. He said that a vessel had been here about twenty years
ago, and that she went away immediately without holding any
communication with the court. This must have been the schooner in which
Captain Broughton visited Napakiang in July, 1797, after he had been
wrecked in his majesty's ship Providence, on the island of Typinsan[13].
He said that he knew of no other stranger who had visited Loo-choo. On
being interrogated as to the knowledge of other countries, he declared
that they knew nothing of the English or French, or any nation indeed
but the Chinese, Corean, and Japanese. Something was said about Manilla,
and from its not being very remote, it is possible that some
communication may have existed between that place and Loo-choo. Their
accounts, however, were vague and unsatisfactory, and it is not
impossible that we ourselves may have first suggested the name, and
afterwards ascribed the use of it to them[14].
Nothing, however, that occurred to-day, attracted more notice than
Madera's assumption of his long concealed rank. He came for the first
time dressed in the robes and hatchee-matchee of a chief, and not only
took precedence of all our old friends, but during the discussion in the
cabin with the Prince, maintained a decided superiority over them all.
While all the rest were embarrassed in the Prince's presence, and
crouching on their knees every time they spoke, Madera, though always
respectful, was quite at his ease; and we could not help fancying that
he addressed the Prince as if accustomed to his society. It was no less
remarkable, that the Prince referred much oftener to him than to any of
the rest, and listened to what he said with greater attention. Whether
Madera owed such distinction to his actual rank, which may have placed
him about the court, or to the ascendancy of his talents, or to the
accidental circumstance of his having had better opportunities of
knowing us than any other of the natives, we could never discover. He
admitted, when interrogated, that he had often seen the Prince before,
while the other chiefs confessed their ignorance even of his person,
before to-day.
As soon as the Prince was placed in his chair and carried away, Madera
came on board, and entered with great good humour into all the jokes
which were made upon his new character. He declined telling why he had
kept his rank so long out of sight, but it was sufficiently obvious that
his main object was to establish an intimacy with all the different
classes on board the ships, and in this he completely succeeded; for he
had gradually advanced in his acquaintance, first with the sailors, then
the midshipmen, next with the officers, and last of all with the
captains. By this means he gained the confidence and good will of each
class as he went along; and by rising in consequence every day, instead
of putting forward all his claims at once, acquired not only substantial
importance with us, but gained a much more intimate knowledge of our
character and customs than he could have hoped to do in any other way.
24th of October.--Mr. Clifford went along with me to-day for the purpose
of sketching the bridge, which, though not above three hundred yards
from the landing place, the chiefs have always objected to our
examining. We took Jeeroo with us without telling him our object, which
he no sooner discovered than he became quite alarmed, and sent off for
Madera, who came to us immediately, and upon learning that nothing
further was proposed than a mere examination of the bridge, he said that
we might go on; having first made us promise solemnly not to go any
further. While Madera was binding us down in this way, I expressed some
little impatience at his doubting our simple declaration of nothing more
being intended than what we avowed; but his duty I suppose was
imperative, and he would not leave us till the matter was arranged in
his own way. As soon as he was satisfied on this point he said something
to Jeeroo and left us; but turning back again, he came up to Mr.
Clifford, and whispered, "captain no sulky?" meaning, we supposed, to
express his apprehension that I had been angry at the stipulations so
positively required by him. Mr. Clifford, having assured him that I was
not sulky with him, detained him to ask him what it was he feared? what
he had seen in us to excite such dread of our going near the town? He
replied, "Loochoo woman see Ingeree man, Loochoo woman cry!" He then
returned; and Jeeroo, who remained in a boat close to the bridge while I
was employed measuring it and drawing it stone by stone, was greatly
interested by Mr. Clifford's account of the great age of our venerable
Sovereign, and the number of his family, which excited his astonishment
and admiration. He conversed freely while the subject was the King of
England, but the moment the slightest turn in the discourse was made
towards the King of Loo-choo he drew up, and became impenetrable. "He
did not know," he said, "how old he was, nor how many children he had;"
in short he seemed scarcely to admit that he had ever heard any thing
about him.
From Madera, however, who had no concealments, we learnt afterwards that
the King has only one wife, but has twelve concubines; he is an old man,
and has seven children. It is curious that none of the chiefs will
inform Captain Maxwell whether or not the Prince who visited the ships
yesterday has any children; it is hardly possible that they can be
ignorant of the fact; but either they are kept strangely in the dark as
to what passes in the palace, or they carry their reserve on royal
topics to a singular length.
From the bridge we went to the top of the hill above the well, where
Jeeroo sung several songs. On the way up we stopped at one of the large
horse-shoe tombs mentioned before, which resembles in all respects the
tombs of China. On this similarity being pointed out to Jeeroo, he
became anxious to explain that it was a Loo-choo tomb, and not
exclusively Chinese; meaning probably that Loo-choo persons were
contained in it. He informed us that these tombs did not contain a
single person only, or a single generation, but were used as cemeteries
from age to age. The bodies, according to his account, are put into
coffins, and allowed to lie untouched for seven years, by which time the
flesh is entirely decayed; the bones are then collected, and being put
into cases are preserved by the families of the deceased with great
care.
25th of October.--This being the anniversary of His Majesty's accession
to the throne, the ships were dressed in colours, and a royal salute
fired. Upon the natives this produced a great effect; they had never
seen any other flags than the single ensigns hoisted on Sundays, and
this display of several hundred flags was well calculated to surprise
and delight them. They were informed some days before that there would
be some ceremonies in honour of our King, and great numbers of people
had assembled on the shore in consequence. This morning had also been
fixed upon for returning the Prince's visit; accordingly we left the
Alceste at one o'clock, forming a procession of four boats, with flags
in each. Captain Maxwell took twelve of his officers and young
gentlemen, and six accompanied me from the Lyra, all being dressed in
full uniform. We entered the harbour, and landed at the same part of the
causeway as before, where the chiefs were in attendance, as on the
occasion of our visit on the 23d ult.
The Prince advanced a few yards on the outside of the gate, and having
taken Captain Maxwell's hand, conducted him to the temple, where an
ingenious device was adopted to preserve the etiquette, requiring that
none of inferior rank shall sit down in the Prince's company. The temple
was divided into three rooms by ranges of columns, which were deemed a
sufficient separation; and, at the same time, no person in the other
rooms could feel himself slighted by the exclusion, since the division
by the pillars was merely nominal. The feast was sumptuous, consisting
of twelve regular courses, besides tea and sackee. There were many new
dishes, principally of meat, dressed in various ways in large bowls. We
saw what seemed to be wheaten bread for the first time to-day. It being
necessary to make some return for the presents brought on board by the
Prince two days ago, Captain Maxwell now gave him several pieces of
scarlet and blue superfine cloth, and samples of every species of
cloths, from the finest damask to the coarsest sail canvas; also a set
of cut crystal decanters and glasses, and three dozen of wine of ten
different sorts, with several books, and a number of smaller articles.
It was also stated to the Prince, that a cow and calf had been left on
shore in order to be offered to the King as a small mark of our sense of
the kindness which we had experienced. The Prince expressed much
satisfaction at this gift, as the calf had become a great favourite with
the natives. My present consisted of half the quantity of wine given by
Captain Maxwell, a mirror taken from a dressing-stand, samples of
English stationary, Cary's map of England, an atlas, and a small brass
sextant; which latter present had been suggested by the wonder which it
had invariably excited at the observatory. Mr. John Maxwell, to whom the
Prince had sent a present of cloth and pipes after he landed yesterday,
gave him a spy-glass and a map of London; the map was coloured, and
round the edges were the palaces, Greenwich Hospital, and other public
buildings, all of which he examined with great attention. After he had
looked over most of the things, and was satisfied with the explanations,
he rose and said that a great deal too much had been given, to which it
was replied, that a great deal too little had been given, and that they
were not offered as being, in any respect, an equivalent for the
supplies sent on board, but merely to shew our sense of the kindness
and attention with which we had been received[15]. During the time that
we sat at table to-day, the interpreter was hardly ever called in, as
Madera and Mr. Clifford contrived between them to explain every thing,
if not as clearly as could have been wished, yet in a more satisfactory
manner than could have been done through the medium of John the
Chinaman, of whose fidelity we were nowise certain, and whose taste and
delicacy in conveying our sentiments we had great reason to doubt.
The Prince, after a time, rose and proposed the King of England's
health, which was accordingly drank in a cup of sackee. In return we
gave the King of Loo-choo. As the surgeon had desired Captain Maxwell to
drink no wine, there was very little drank at the Prince's table; but at
the others every art was used to circulate the sackee pot. Indeed,
little persuasion was required, for the sackee, though not strong, was
very good. Ookooma presided at the table occupied by the officers, and
Jeero at that where the midshipmen sat.
Ookooma having remarked on board, that whenever the King's health was
drank, whether his Majesty of England, or of Loo-choo, the cups were
always freely emptied, took advantage of this loyalty of sentiment, and
gave "The King of Injeree's health" three or four times over, to which,
of course, the officers were obliged to reply, by giving "The King of
Loo-choo" as often. He carried this rather farther than is customary
with us on similar occasions, for observing that the company were rather
backward in eating a bowl of sweet rice-meal porridge, he stood up with
his bowl in his hand, and calling out "King of Injeree health!"
swallowed the whole of it, and invited the rest to follow his example.
The Prince seemed to enjoy the mirth of the other tables very much; he
was himself more cheerful and disengaged than when we first saw him,
though he appears to be naturally a silent man. Ookooma, by overacting
his part, got, we thought, a little tipsy, and came several times into
the state chamber, talking louder than was proper, but of this the
Prince took no notice. When Ookooma came near my chair, I whispered to
him, "Ya weetee," (you are drunk;) he turned round, and affecting to be
angry, called out, "Weetee nang," (I am not drunk) in a voice and manner
which were in direct contradiction to his assertion: his subsequent
behaviour, however, was so correct and sedate when the feast broke up,
and all were again upon duty, that he was probably merely pretending to
be tipsy, in order to suit what was considered to be the humour of the
company.
On rising to depart, the Prince led Captain Maxwell by the hand, not
only through the gate, but about twenty yards along the causeway; here
he stopped and took leave. Captain Maxwell availed himself of this
opportunity to repeat, for the last time, his thanks in the name of his
government, for the numerous attentions and marks of kindness which we
had received. He requested that what he had said might be communicated
to the King, and assured the Prince, in the most earnest and respectful
manner, that all the circumstances of our reception and entertainment
should be stated to our own government. The Prince bowed to this in a
manner which seemed to express his satisfaction at what was promised.
Captain Maxwell next observed, that besides the high public benefits of
which he had just been speaking, he felt individually greatly honoured
and obliged by the particular attention which had been shewn to himself,
and to the captain of the little ship, and hoped that the Prince would
accept from himself a small mark of his respect and gratitude. As soon
as this was interpreted to the Prince, Captain Maxwell took from his
neck a small thermometer, set in silver, and presented it to the Prince,
who leaned his head forward, and requested that it might be hung round
his neck.
This may be supposed a curious place to hang a thermometer, but we had
learned during our intercourse with the chiefs, that some management of
this kind was necessary whenever it was intended to offer them presents;
for their extreme delicacy made them unwilling to accept any thing of
value, lest it might appear in the light of remuneration for their
hospitality. Whenever any thing merely ornamental, or of little value,
was offered, and particularly if worn about the person, no objection was
made to receiving it. It thus became the practice, as being the most
convenient method, to tie the proposed gift by a ribbon round the neck;
and after a time, every one had rings, seals, watch-keys, or bank tokens
with holes drilled in them, prepared for these occasions. The
thermometer which was given to the Prince had particularly attracted his
notice when he was on board.
After Captain Maxwell had given his present, the Prince turned to me,
and I put over his neck a cornelian ornament, suspended by a ribbon, in
the same manner as the thermometer.
He was greatly delighted with these compliments, and immediately
resuming Captain Maxwell's hand, led him along the whole length of the
causeway to the boat, and then stepped upon the top of the parapet to
see us row away.
As soon as we had put off, every one in the boats stood up and gave
three cheers; to which the Prince bowed several times, with his hands
closed and raised to his breast. He remained on the parapet, and
continued waving his fan to us as we rowed down the harbour, as long as
we could see him. As the boats rowed in procession out of the harbour,
all the chiefs ran along to the end of the causeway, where they
continued, along with a vast crowd of natives, waving their
handkerchiefs and fans till we were a great way from the shore. On each
side of this group of chiefs a gong was beat incessantly. On every side,
the rocks, the trees, houses, and boats, in short, every spot was
crowded with people, waving their hands, and cheering us as we went
along. This brilliant scene had less of novelty in it, to be sure, than
what we had witnessed at the same place on the twenty-third of last
month, but it was still more pleasing, for we had now become acquainted
with many of the individuals forming this assemblage, and could feel
assured that their expressions of kindness and respect were sincere. On
the first occasion, too, the natives being ignorant of our intentions,
were very generally alarmed at our appearance; and accordingly, though
there was much curiosity shewn, a profound silence and stillness
prevailed over the whole crowd, very different from the friendly shouts
and signs with which they greeted us as we passed among them to-day.
Precautions had been taken to prevent the ladies from indulging their
curiosity as they had done on the first visit, not a female being seen
any where.
26th of October.--Last night both the Alceste and Lyra were illuminated.
At nine o'clock a _feu de joie_ was fired, and a number of fire-works
let off from the yard-arms. A great concourse of the natives, who had
been apprised of our intentions, assembled on the shore, and were very
highly delighted with this brilliant exhibition.
[Illustration: SCENE after the PRINCE of LOO CHOO'S FEAST.]
The sick, as well as the remaining stores belonging to the Alceste, were
removed on board this morning, and every preparation made for sea. While
employed in completing the series of observations at the observatory,
Madera joined us, having in his hand the sextant which I had given to
the Prince yesterday. It seemed that he had been ordered to make himself
acquainted with the use of it; and a more hopeless enterprise could not
have been proposed to any man. But Madera was not a man to be thrown
into despair by difficulty; on the contrary, he persevered in observing
with this sextant, and the more the difficulty was made apparent, the
more keenly he laboured to overcome it. The progress which he made in a
few hours in the mere practical operation of taking angles and altitudes
was not surprising, because there is in fact not much difficulty in it;
but he was nowise satisfied with this proficiency, and seemed anxious to
apply his knowledge to some useful purpose.
With a sextant on a stand, I made him take the distance between the sun
and moon, four or five times; on every occasion he was wonderfully near
the truth. We endeavoured to confine him to one object, merely to
ascertain the time of apparent noon; and I think we succeeded in
explaining to him how this was to be done. He expressed repeatedly his
regret at our approaching departure, in which sentiment he was joined by
Jeeroo and the rest of the chiefs, who were quite out of spirits.
Jeeroo, poor fellow, had prepared a handsome dinner for us under a tree
near the observatory. He made us drink what he called "wackarittee," or
the parting cup, several times over. We had a number of visitors at the
observatory, who saw the instruments packed up and sent off with looks
of real regret. They all said they were sorry we were going away. One
man gave Mr. Clifford, as a farewell gift, a curious drawing of the
Alceste dressed in flags, and executed, he said, by his son. The
children, too, were all much affected by our preparations, and the
wonted hilarity of the lower orders was quite gone.
Having taken our final leave of the shore, we went to the Alceste, where
we found the chiefs in conference with Captain Maxwell, who made each of
the chiefs a present of a cut wine glass, which he knew they had long
desired to possess. To Ookooma he gave a finely cut tumbler, in a red
morocco case. This was much beyond his expectations, and perhaps his
wishes, for he appeared to observe the wine glasses of the others with
somewhat of a disappointed look. Captain Maxwell perceiving in a moment
that Ookooma had set his heart upon a wine glass, opened the case, and
placed one inside the tumbler, to Ookooma's great satisfaction; and soon
afterwards the whole party went on shore, saying, before they left the
ship, that in the morning the Bodzes would come on board in order to
perform some sacrifice. As they never came, it is probable that the
interpreter misunderstood them, particularly as Isaacha Sandoo said to
Mr. Clifford, "Acha hoonee nittee Doochoo mang hoonee oocooyoong."
"To-morrow the ships will go, and all the Loo-choo people will pray for
them, or wish them well;" which was probably what was meant when the
interpreter reported that the Bodzes were to come on board.
While we were at dinner, Madera came into the Alceste's cabin for the
purpose of asking some questions about the sextant. He had not been
aware of our being at dinner, and looked shocked at having intruded; and
when invited to sit down, politely, but firmly declined. From the cabin
he went to the gun room, to see his friend Mr. Hoppner, the junior
lieutenant of the Alceste, with whom he had formed a great friendship.
Mr. Hoppner gave him a picture of the Alceste and some other presents;
upon which Madera, who was much affected, said, "To-morrow ship go sea;
I go my father house, two day distance: when I see my father, I show him
your present, and I tell him, me, Henry Hoppner all same (as) brother,"
and burst into tears!
Sunday, 27th of October.--At daybreak we unmoored, and the natives, on
seeing us take up one of our anchors, thought we were going to get under
weigh immediately, and give them the slip, which was not at all
intended. This alarm, however, brought the chiefs off in a great hurry;
not in a body in their usual formal way, but one by one, in separate
canoes. Old Jeema called on board the Lyra on his way to the frigate; he
was a good deal agitated, and the tears came into his eyes when I put a
ring on his finger. He gave me in return his knife.
The other chiefs called alongside on their way to the frigate, but went
on when I told them that I was just going to the Alceste myself. In the
mean time Madera came on board, with the sextant in his hand; he was in
such distress that he scarcely knew what he was about. In this
distracted state he sat down to breakfast with us, during which he
continued lighting his pipe and smoking as fast as he could; drinking
and eating whatever was placed before him. After he had a little
recovered himself, he asked what books it would be necessary to read to
enable him to make use of the sextant; I gave him a nautical almanack,
and told him that he must understand that in the first instance: he
opened it, and looking at the figures, held up his hands in despair, and
was at last forced to confess that it was a hopeless business. He
therefore put the sextant up and bade us farewell. Before he left the
Lyra he gave Mr. Clifford his pipe, tobacco pouch, and a crystal
ornament; saying, as he held out the last, "You go Ingeree, you give
this to your childs."
Mr. Clifford gave him a few presents in return, and expressed his
anxiety to be considered his friend. Madera, with the tears streaming
down his cheeks, placed his hand several times upon his heart, and
cried, "Eedooshee, edooshee!" My friend, my friend!
To me he gave a fan and a picture of an old man looking up at the sun,
drawn, he said, by himself: he probably meant in his picture some
allusion to my usual occupation at the observatory. After he had put off
in his boat, he called out, "Ingeree noo choo sibittee yootoosha," I
shall ever remember the English people. When he went to the Alceste, one
of the chiefs remarked that he had neither his hatchee-matchee on nor
his robes, and told him that it was not respectful to wait upon Captain
Maxwell for the last time, in his ordinary dress; particularly as all
the others were in full array. Madera, who, poor fellow, had been too
much concerned about other matters to think of dress, was shocked at
this apparent want of politeness, and went immediately to apologize to
Captain Maxwell, who took him by the hand, and gave him a present,
telling him, at the same time, that he was always too happy to see him,
to notice what dress he had on.
On going into the cabin, I found the chiefs seated in a row, all very
disconsolate, and apparently trying to conceal emotions different, in
all probability, from any which they had ever before experienced.
Captain Maxwell had made them his parting present, and I therefore gave
to each chief some trifle, receiving from them in return, their knives,
pipes, pouches, and fans. In the mean time the anchor was hove up, and
every thing being ready for making sail, the chiefs rose to take leave.
Ookooma wished to say something, but was too much affected to speak, and
before they reached their boats they were all in tears.
Madera cried bitterly as he shook hands with his numerous friends, who
were loading him with presents.
The chiefs, as well as the people in the numerous canoes which had
assembled round the ships, stood up, and continued waving their fans and
handkerchiefs till we were beyond the reefs, and could see them no
longer.
* * * * *
Almost every thing respecting the manners and customs of Loo-choo, with
which we have had an opportunity of becoming acquainted, has been laid
before the reader in the foregoing narrative. It is proposed to insert
here a few particulars which in the hurry of the moment were noted down
without date. They might easily have been embodied with the narrative,
but it has been considered of less consequence to sacrifice arrangement,
than to interfere in any way with the integrity of the Journal, in which
nothing has been inserted out of the exact order in which it is known to
have happened.
The religion of Loo-choo appears to be that of Fo, said to be introduced
by the bodzes one thousand years ago[16]. We found great difficulty in
discovering any thing precise on this subject from the natives; but from
all that we could gather, religion does not appear to be made a matter
of general instruction as in Europe, being left, as in China, to the
priests. This we infer from the careless way in which the subject was at
all times treated by the natives, and the ignorance which they
professed of the forms and ceremonies used in the temples. The bodzes
are not respected or esteemed in society; they are prevented from
marrying, and are not allowed to eat meat: few people associate with
them, and even the children turn them into ridicule. On the occasion of
the Loo-choo funeral service over the grave of the seaman, the bodzes
stood behind, and were not called upon to officiate, the service being
entirely performed by Jeeroo.
In the large temple we saw three gilt idols and various pictures; but
with the exception of the funeral service just alluded to, we never met
with any thing in the least degree resembling a religious ceremony. The
bodzes kept the temple clean swept, and took care of the walks and
hedges, and this appeared to be their only employment. It is fair to
suppose, however, that the occupation of the temple by us may have
caused a temporary cessation of their religious observances.
They have large tombs or cemeteries for their dead, being mostly of the
Chinese form, viz. that of a horse-shoe. They are formed of stones and
mortar, and are covered with a coat of cheenam, (shell lime), which is
always kept nicely whitewashed and clean swept: some are more highly
finished than others; their size varies from twenty to thirty feet in
length, by twelve to fourteen broad. The coffin, when closed, is placed
in the vault under the tomb, and is not touched for six or seven years,
by which time the flesh is found to have separated and wasted away; the
bones are then collected, and put into jars ranged in rows on the inside
of the vault. Burning is never used at any stage of the proceedings, nor
under any circumstances. In the course of time, when these vaults become
crowded, the vases are removed to houses appropriated to their reception
above ground: such must have been the building described by Mr. Clifford
in the village near Port Melville. The lower orders, who cannot afford
these expensive tombs, take advantage of hollow places in the rocks,
which by a little assistance are made secure vaults. In the cliffs
behind the village of Oonting, the galleries cut for the reception of
the vases must have been the work of men possessed of power and
authority. Not being fully aware what the Chinese customs are with
respect to the dead, in ordinary cases, it is impossible for us to say
how nearly they resemble those of Loo-choo, but there are certainly some
points of resemblance.
From Mr. Clifford's notes on the Loo-choo inscriptions, I have extracted
the following particulars.
"A number of carved stones, called by the natives Kawroo, were found at
many places, particularly in the groves on the hill. The Kawroo is two
feet long, by one wide, and one high; it is excavated a little on the
upper part, on which an offering of rice is placed. On the sides of this
stone are carved a variety of characters, denoting the rank of the
person who makes the offering, as well as the object of his petition,
together with the date.
"Two of these inscriptions, copied at the time, have since been
translated by a gentleman acquainted with the Chinese characters. The
first gives an account of a man about to sail for China, in the reign of
Kien Lung, the late monarch of that country; this person implores the
divine aid in protecting him during his voyage. The other is dated in
the twenty-first year of the reign of Kia-King, the present emperor of
China, answering to the year 1816, in which we visited Loo-choo. This is
an invocation to the deity for success in a literary pursuit.
"Two narrow strips of paper, with characters inscribed on them, which by
consent of the natives were taken from a pillar in the temple, and which
have since been translated, prove to be invocations, one to the supreme
deity, and the other to the evil spirit. The first is on a slip of
paper, two feet long, by two inches wide, and contains a supplication
for pardon. The latter invocation begins by seven rows of the character
symbolical of the Devil. In the upper line there are seven, and in the
last one, so that a triangular page is formed of twenty-eight
characters, each signifying the Devil; and the prayer itself is written
in a narrow perpendicular line underneath; the whole inscription
resembling in form a kite with a long tail attached to it."
Polygamy is not allowed in Loo-choo as in China, and the king, it
appears, is the only person permitted by law to have concubines; they
invariably spoke with horror of the Chinese practice, which allows a
plurality of wives, and were much gratified on learning that the English
customs in this respect were similar to those of Loo-choo. The women are
not treated so well as we were led to expect from the mildness of
character in the men, and their liberality of thinking in general. The
upper classes of women are confined a good deal to their houses, and the
lower orders perform much of the hard work of husbandry. We saw them at
a distance, in great numbers, carrying loads on their heads. Madera says
that the women are not treated with much indulgence, being even
restricted from using fans; and that when they are met out of doors by
the men, they take no notice of one another, whatever may be the degree
of relationship or intimacy subsisting between them. The perseverance
with which they kept the women from our sight is curious, and leads us
to conjecture that the general practice of the island is to seclude the
women at all times. In this respect they differ from the Japanese, who
are said to allow wives to every stranger. This degree of seclusion
does not prevail in China, as we had opportunities of observing at
several places never before visited by Europeans. The Chinese account
quoted in the Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses, vol. 23, states that the
young men and women marry on this island by choice, and not, as in
China, by a contract made without any personal knowledge of each other.
We took every opportunity of interrogating them on this subject, but as
the question was always evaded, we fear that their practice in this
respect is not so praiseworthy as that account would make it appear.
Of their literature we could get but few satisfactory accounts; they say
that they have few books in their own language, the greater number on
the island being Chinese. The young men of rank are sometimes sent to
China to be educated. Jeeroo had been there when a boy. None but the
upper classes understand the spoken Chinese, and the peasantry are in
general ignorant both of the spoken and written Chinese language.
They appear to have no money, and from all we could see or hear, they
are even ignorant of its use. Those, however, who have visited China
cannot be so ill informed, and yet none of them set any value upon
Spanish dollars, or upon any gold coins that we had. Though we were
incessantly trying to make out from Madera and the others, what their
medium of exchange was, we could never learn any thing distinct upon the
subject, nor could they be made to comprehend our questions about money;
a difficulty, it may be observed, which we should expect to meet with
among people whose only mode of purchase was by barter. The only
circumstance which came to our knowledge bearing at all upon this
question, was during the time when the garden was under preparation for
the reception of the Alceste's stores; it was then remarked that each of
the labourers employed had a little piece of paper stuck in his hair,
with a single character written on it; this naturally excited our
curiosity, but the inquiries we were enabled to make at that early stage
of our knowledge of the language, led to nothing conclusive. Afterwards,
when our means in this respect were more ample, we could not recall the
circumstance to the recollection of the chiefs. As these papers were
called by the people wearing them, "hoonatee," and as "hoonee" means
ship, Mr. Clifford has conjectured that they may have been written
passes to enable them to enter the gate on the ship's business.
We saw no arms of any kind, and the natives always declared that they
had none. Their behaviour on seeing a musket fired certainly implied an
ignorance of fire-arms. In a cottage at the north end of the island, we
saw a spear which had the appearance of a warlike weapon, but we had
every reason to believe that this was used for the sole purpose of
catching fish, having seen others not very dissimilar actually employed
in this way. They looked at our swords and cutlasses, and at the Malay
creeses and spears, with equal surprise, being apparently as little
acquainted with the one as with the other. The chiefs carried little
case knives in the folds of their robes, or in the girdle, and the lower
orders had a larger knife, but these were always of some immediate
practical utility, and were not worn for defence nor as ornaments. They
denied having any knowledge of war either by experience or by tradition.
We never saw any punishment inflicted at Loo-choo: a tap with the fan,
or an angry look, was the severest chastisement ever resorted to, as far
as we could discover. In giving orders, the chiefs were mild though
firm, and the people always obeyed with cheerfulness. There seemed to be
great respect and confidence on the one hand, and much consideration and
kind feeling on the other. In this particular, more than in any other
that fell under our notice, Loo-choo differs from China, for in the
latter country we saw none of this generous and friendly understanding
between the upper and lower classes.
One day when we were drinking tea and smoking pipes with the chiefs, on
the top of the hill, a boy began to exhibit feats of tumbling before us;
in a short time all eyes were turned towards him, and his modesty caused
him to desist. We offered him buttons and various things, but he would
not resume his tumbling: we then asked Jeema to interfere; he did so,
and told the youngster to go on; but he kept his seat, and Jeema became
angry, or rather pretended to be so, yet the tumbler sat obstinately
still. "Well," said Jeema to us, "what is to be done? It was for his own
amusement that he began, and probably for his amusement he will do so
again." The boy, when left alone, in a short time resumed his tumbling.
I mention this to shew Jeema's good sense in not forcing the boy to do
that as a task, which he had begun as an amusement, and which he had
discernment enough to know would be unpleasant for us to witness in any
other way. By this treatment of their children, mutual cordiality and
freedom of intercourse are encouraged. It was probably owing to this
mode of education that the children became at once familiar with us. One
day while I was employed sketching the village and trees near the
bridge, a boy stopped near me, and without saying any thing, endeavoured
to attract my notice by performing various gambols before me. I took no
notice of him for some time, but at last looked up and smiled; upon
which the boy cried out in perfectly good English, "How do you do? Very
well, I thank you;" and ran off, quite delighted at having displayed his
proficiency in English.
The chiefs were generally accompanied by one or two of their sons, who
took their places near them, and were always put forward when there was
any thing curious to be seen. In this way they were encouraged to make
themselves acquainted with every thing, and yet nothing could be more
respectful or affectionate than they always were. Great pains were taken
to form the manners of the children, and we never observed an instance
of rudeness in any one of them, though they were as full of life and
spirits as the wildest English school-boys. John the Chinaman afforded
them much amusement: he was a great coxcomb, and therefore fair game for
the boys; they used to surround him and pretend to pull his long tail;
but they never actually pulled it, but merely teazed him a little, and
then ran away. These little traits seem worthy of notice, as they belong
to a style of education quite different from what we had seen in China
and some other eastern countries, where the children are made to look
like men in miniature.
During our intercourse with these people, there did not occur one
instance of theft. They were all permitted to come on board
indiscriminately; to go into the cabins, store-rooms, and wherever they
liked, unattended. At the temple the Alceste's stores of every kind were
lying about, as well as the carpenter's and armourer's tools; and in the
observatory, the instruments, books, and pencils were merely placed
under cover; yet there was not a single article taken away, though many
hundreds of people were daily admitted, and allowed to examine whatever
they pleased. This degree of honesty is a feature which distinguishes
the people of Loo-choo from the Chinese, as well as from the inhabitants
of the islands in the South Sea and of the Malay Archipelago; among whom
even fear, as was ascertained by Captain Cook and other voyagers, is
altogether insufficient to prevent theft. At Loo-choo the people are
considerably civilised; but they have few wants, and they appear to be
perfectly contented. Honesty is perhaps the natural consequence of such
a state of society.
We saw no musical instruments of any kind; they were, however, aware of
their use. The natives almost all sing, and we heard several very sweet
airs, principally plaintive: they had many jovial drinking songs, one of
which we wrote down from their singing; it was inscribed on a drinking
cup, and is as follows:
"Ty'wack koo, tawshoo, shee kackoofing,
"Chaw ung, itchee shaw, shooha neebooroo;
"Ting shee, you byee, chee taroo shoo ninnee
"Nooboo cadsee meesee carra shaw jeeroo
"Shing coodee sackee oochee noo shing."
The Chinese characters on the drinking-cup were thus translated in
China, "Tywack hoo[17], inspired by a jar of wine, writes an hundred
pages of odes or verses without end. At the market town of Chaw-ung[18]
he entered a wine shop to sleep. The Emperor summoned him to appear; in
his haste to obey the summons, he forgot to put on his neckcloth, and
rushing into the royal presence, exclaimed, 'I am the wine-loving
immortal.'"
The Loo-choo dress has been so frequently mentioned, that a brief
notice, in recapitulation, will suffice in this place. Their loose robe
was generally made of cotton, and of a great variety of colours. The
robe of a grown up person was never flowered or printed over with
figures, being generally of a uniform colour, though instances occurred
of striped cloths being worn by the chiefs. This robe opened in front,
but the edges overlapped, and were concealed by the folds, so as to
render it difficult to say whether or not the robe was continued all
round: the sleeves were about three feet wide: round the middle was
bound a belt or girdle about four or five inches wide, always of a
different colour from the dress, and in general richly ornamented with
wrought silk and gold flowers. The folds of the robe overhang the belt,
but not so much as to hide it: the whole of the dress folds easily, and
has a graceful and picturesque appearance. The garments worn by the
children were often gaudily printed with flowers. In rainy or cold
weather, a sort of great coat was worn by the chiefs only, of thick blue
cloth, buttoning in front over the robe, and tighter both in body and
sleeves than the other. This cloth resembled the coarse cloth used in
China; and it looked like woollen manufacture, and may possibly have
been originally brought from England. The sandals worn by all ranks were
exactly the same; they were formed of straw wrought into a firm mat to
fit the sole of the foot, smooth towards the foot, and ragged
underneath: a stiff smooth band of straw, about as thick as one's little
finger, passes from that part of the sandal immediately under the ancle
and over the lower part of the instep, so as to join the sandal at the
opposite side; this is connected with the foremost part of the sandal by
a short small straw cord which comes between the great toe and the
next one. The upper classes wore stockings of white cotton, not unlike
our half stockings, except that they button at the outside, and have a
place like the finger of a glove for the great toe.
[Illustration: GENTLEMAN of LOO CHOO in his CLOAK.]
Their hair is of a jet black, and is kept glossy by juice expressed
from a leaf. There is no variety in the fashion of dressing it; it is
pulled tight up all round, and is formed at top into a compact knot, so
as to conceal the crown of the head, which is shaved; through the knot
are thrust two metal pins, one of which has a square point and flowered
head consisting of six leaves or divisions: the other pin has one end
sharp, and the other shaped like a scoop: the length of these pins is
from four to six inches. We did not see the Prince's, as he remained
covered during all the time of his visit; but the Chief of high rank,
who visited the Alceste on the 23d of September, had the flowered end of
one pin studded with precious stones. The higher orders wear, on state
occasions, what they called a "hatchee-matchee," which is a kind of
turban, apparently made by winding a broad band round a cylinder, in
such a way, that a small segment of each fold is shewn at every turn, in
front above, and behind below; this is effected by giving a slight
diagonal direction to each fold. The lower orders occasionally tie a
coloured cloth or handkerchief round the head; this they call "sadjee:"
next the body they wear a thin cotton dress. The men wear no ornaments
through their flesh, nor are they tattooed: we saw, indeed, some
fishermen who had fish spears marked on their arms, but this does not
prevail generally. An etching of these marks is given by Mr. Clifford in
the second part of the Vocabulary.
The cattle on this island, which are of a small black breed, are used
exclusively for agricultural purposes. Hogs, goats, and poultry, with
rice and a great variety of vegetables, form the food of the
inhabitants: milk is never used. We saw no geese, so that those left by
Captain Broughton most probably did not thrive. They have no sheep nor
asses. Their horses are of a small slight make, and the natives are very
fond of riding. We saw no carts or wheeled carriages of any kind, horses
being used to carry loads; for this purpose the roads are numerous, and
kept in excellent order, being from six to ten feet wide.
Their mode of dressing the ground is neat, and resembles the Chinese,
particularly in manuring and irrigating it. This is most attended to
where the sugar-cane is cultivated: they have, besides, tobacco, wheat,
rice, Indian corn, millet, sweet potatoes, brinjals, and many other
vegetables. The fields, which are nicely squared, have convenient walks
on the raised banks running round each. Along the sides of the hills,
and round the villages, the bamboo and rattan grow to a considerable
size. The pine is the most conspicuous tree on the island, growing to a
great height and size, which we infer from seeing canoes built with
planks several feet wide; the trees, however, near the temple at
Napakiang were not above ninety feet high, and from three to four in
girt. The banyan-tree of India was seen at several places; the finest
one overhung the small temple at Napakiang, which circumstance led to
the enquiry whether, as in India, this tree is held sacred, but we could
gain no information on this subject.
In a little plot of ground in the temple garden, Mr. Phillips, purser of
the Alceste, sowed mustard-seed, peas, and a variety of other seeds, the
natives taking his directions for their culture. Our total ignorance of
botany prevented our making any observations on this subject while at
Loo-choo; but to supply this deficiency, we collected specimens of every
plant at the place. These were preserved between sheets of brown paper,
and given afterwards to Mr. Abel, the naturalist of the embassy, in
order to be arranged; but they were subsequently lost, along with the
whole of that gentleman's collection.
Of their manufactures it is difficult to speak with certainty. By their
own account the silks which they wear are Chinese, but the cotton cloths
are made on this and the neighbouring islands; the printed patterns of
these are not without elegance. We saw no weaving looms, but as we were
only in a few houses, this is not surprising: the webs are thirty-six
feet long, and fourteen inches broad. Tobacco-pipes and fans are made at
Loo-choo; as well as the sepulchral vases, of which there is a
manufactory at Napakiang, from whence they are exported to Oonting, and
other parts of the island. Some of the pouches of the chiefs were made
of cloth, which they say comes from China; it is exactly like our broad
cloth. We tried in vain to learn what goods they send to China in
exchange for silks: perhaps sulphur forms a part, which these islands
are said to produce, as well as tin. From the number of vessels
constantly sailing out and in, it appears that they must have some
trade, but our enquiries on this and many other topics, though
sedulously pursued, led to nothing satisfactory, owing probably rather
to our ignorance of the language, than to any wish on their part to
withhold information; because, on topics which had no reference to the
royal family or the women, they in general spoke freely.
We had frequent opportunities of seeing their method of making salt, and
an account of it may, perhaps, be interesting. Near the sea, large level
fields are rolled or beat so as to have a hard surface. Over this is
strewn a sort of sandy black earth, forming a coat about a quarter of an
inch thick. Rakes and other implements are used to make it of a uniform
thickness, but it is not pressed down. During the heat of the day, men
are employed to bring water in tubs from the sea, which is sprinkled
over these fields by means of a short scoop. The heat of the sun, in a
short time, evaporates the water, and the salt is left in the sand,
which is scraped up and put into raised receivers of masonry about six
feet by four, and five deep. When the receiver is full of the sand, sea
water is poured on the top, and this, in its way down, carries with it
the salt left by evaporation. When it runs out below at a small hole, it
is a very strong brine; this is reduced to salt by being boiled in
vessels about three feet wide and one deep. The cakes resulting from
this operation are an inch and a half in thickness.
Of the population of this island we know nothing satisfactory: the
natives invariably pleaded ignorance themselves; and as we had no
precise data, our estimates were made at random, and as they never
agreed with each other, they are not worthy of notice. From the south
point of this island, to five or six miles north of Napakiang, an extent
of sixteen or eighteen miles, the country is highly cultivated, and is
almost entirely covered with villages. All round Port Melville too there
are populous villages, but the north, north-east and eastern places are
thinly peopled, and not cultivated to any extent. We saw nothing like
poverty or distress of any kind: every person that we met seemed
contented and happy. We saw no deformed people, nor any who bore
indications of disease, except a few who were marked with the small-pox.
The style of living of those with whom we associated is generous and
free; their custom of carrying about their dinner in boxes, and making
little pic-nic parties, is peculiarly striking, and they appeared fully
sensible of the advantage of bringing people together in this way, and
expressed much satisfaction at the ready way in which we fell into a
custom from which all formality was dismissed. They shewed, moreover, a
good deal of discernment, and could adapt themselves to the character of
the particular persons they happened to be in company with, in a manner
very remarkable; but this was evidently the result not of cunning, but
of correct feelings, and of a polite habit of thinking.
Of their manners, little need be added here to what every page of the
narrative will show. It ought to be particularly noticed, however, that
they are an exceedingly timorous people, and naturally suspicious of
foreigners. A stranger visiting Loo-choo ought therefore to keep these
features of their character constantly in mind. By imitating Captain
Maxwell's wise plan of treating the natives with gentleness and
kindness, and shewing every consideration for their peculiarities, he
will stand the best chance of gaining their good-will and confidence.
But if he should betray any impatience, or be at all harsh in treating
with them, he may rest assured that he will lose much time, and in all
probability fail at last in his attempts to establish an unreserved and
friendly intercourse.
As Loo-choo, however, lies quite out of the track of trading ships, and
does not appear to produce any thing of value itself, and as the
inhabitants seem indifferent about foreign commodities, and if they
wished to possess them are without money to make purchases, it is not
probable that this island will be soon revisited.
[Illustration: BRIDGE AT NAPAKIANG.]
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 11: We first discovered the meaning of this word by hearing
one of the natives apply it to the castle on the chess board: he used
the same term when drawings of towers and castles were shewn to him.]
[Footnote 12: The literal translation of the card is "Loo-choo nation,
extender of laws, Great Person (called Ko), Heang, bows his head and
worships," (the common visiting expression among the Chinese.) It ought
to be remarked, that the Prince's name is placed on one corner of the
card, which is the most respectful mode that can be used, according to
Chinese usage.]
[Footnote 13: See Broughton's Voyage, Book II. Chap. 2. for a very
interesting account of the natives of Typinsan, who appear to resemble
the people of the Great Loo-choo Island. In Book II. Chap. 3. Captain
Broughton gives an account of his visit to Napachan. He was received by
the inhabitants with great kindness; they supplied his wants, but
objected to his landing, and sent back to the schooner some of the
officers who had been sent on shore to examine the town. We found
Captain Broughton's account of the people quite accurate.]
[Footnote 14: At Manilla we found that the Great Loo-choo Island was
known only by name. There appeared to be no intercourse between the two
places.]
[Footnote 15: LIST OF SUPPLIES RECEIVED AT LOO-CHOO BY H.M. SHIPS.
|Alceste. | Lyra. |
Bullocks | 19 | 8 |
Pigs | 23 | 10 |
Goats | 15 | 7 |
Fowls | *216 | 102 |*Not including
Fish | 29 | 12 |extra supplies
Eggs | 920 | 455 |to the officers.
Bags of sweet potatoes | *59 | 27 |*Not including
Squashes | 34 | 14 |ditto.
Jars of Samchoo, each containing about | | |
fifteen gallons | 6 | 3 |
Baskets of oranges | 9 | 4 |
Bundles of gingerbread | 8 | 3 |
-----------Onions | 16 | 8 |
-----------Radishes | 30 | 12 |
-----------Celery | 12 | 5 |
-----------Garlick | 8 | 4 |
-----------Candles | 7 | 3 |
-----------Wood | 16 | 8 |
Pumpkins | 60 | 30 |
Baskets of vermicelli | 7 | 3 |
Boxes of sugar | 2 | 1 |
Rolls of printed linen | 14 | 7 |
Bundles of paper | 6 | 3 |
]
[Footnote 16: See Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses, vol. 23.]
[Footnote 17: A man celebrated in the Tung dynasty for his convivial
disposition: he is known in China by the name of Jai-pe.]
[Footnote 18: The town of Chang-ngan in China, near the Great Wall.]
APPENDIX:
CONTAINING
CHARTS
OF THE GULF OF PE-CHE-LEE, THE WEST COAST OF COREA, THE GREAT LOO-CHOO
ISLAND, NAPAKIANG ROADS, AND PORT MELVILLE: WITH BRIEF EXPLANATORY
NOTICES.
TABLE OF OBSERVATIONS
MADE WITH DR. WOLLASTON'S DIP SECTOR: WITH AN ENGRAVING, AND A
DESCRIPTION OF THIS INSTRUMENT, AND DIRECTIONS FOR ITS USE.
METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL,
FROM JULY TO NOVEMBER 1816, WHILE THE SHIPS WERE IN THE YELLOW AND JAPAN
SEAS.
ABSTRACT OF THE LYRA'S VOYAGE,
FROM LEAVING ENGLAND TILL HER RETURN; SHEWING THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE
DIFFERENT PLACES AT WHICH SHE TOUCHED, AND THE TIME TAKEN IN PERFORMING
EACH PASSAGE.
GEOLOGICAL MEMORANDUM;
BEING A DESCRIPTION OF THE SPECIMENS OF ROCKS COLLECTED ON THE SHORES OF
THE YELLOW SEA, COREA, LOO-CHOO, MACAO, AND THE LADRONE ISLANDS.
CHARTS
OF THE
GULF OF PE-CHE-LEE, THE WEST COAST OF COREA, THE GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND,
NAPAKIANG ROADS, AND PORT MELVILLE.
WITH BRIEF EXPLANATORY NOTICES.
[Illustration: Track of His Majesty's Sloop LYRA _and Honble. Comps.
Ship INVESTIGATOR_ _along the Shores of the_ GULPH OF PETCHELEE By
Captain Basil Hall R.N. 1816.
_East of Greenwich_]
NOTICE EXPLANATORY OF A CHART
OF
THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE GULF OF PE-CHE-LEE, YELLOW SEA.
[Sidenote: First meridian used in constructing the chart.]
In constructing this chart, I have assumed the longitude of the fort at
the mouth of the Pei-ho to be 117º 49' east of Greenwich, or 11' west of
the place where the squadron lay at anchor. From this the difference of
longitude was measured by two chronometers. The latitudes were
ascertained by frequent observations of the stars, as well as of the
sun.
[Sidenote: Aspect of the south and south-west coasts.]
[Sidenote: Soundings.]
The coast on the south and south-west sides of this Gulf is very low,
resembling, in this respect, the shore at the entrance of the Pei-ho, or
Pekin river, where it is uniformly low and sandy; occasionally a few
houses are to be seen, and also square mounds or buildings like forts,
but generally, a low white beach is all that can be discovered. The
coast is not visible till within about three leagues distance, and the
eye elevated eighty feet from the sea, which is the height of the Lyra's
foretop-gallant yard. The depth of water when the land first came in
sight, was generally five fathoms; at some places only four fathoms, and
at the very bottom of the Gulf, it could not be discerned till in three
and a half fathoms. It may be said generally, that at ten miles distance
the soundings are from four and a half to six fathoms; at twelve miles,
from six to eight fathoms. There is a wonderful uniformity in the depth
from the Pei-ho round to the south-east corner of the Gulf; the bottom
is mud, sometimes a little gritty, particularly towards the southern
parts.
[Sidenote: Colour of the water.]
The colour of the water was mostly of the same dirty yellow or green
which was observed off the Pei-ho, but we did not observe any red
coloured water, as was frequently noticed at that place; at the bottom
of the Gulf, indeed, there were several changes in the colour of the
water, accompanied by long lines of foam, indicating, it would seem,
the vicinity of a great river.
[Sidenote: Tides on the western side of the Gulf.]
On the west side of the Gulf the ebb tide runs to the south-east by
south, and the flood north-west by west; the periods are very regular,
being generally about six hours: they vary, however, in rapidity. As we
anchored on the flood we were enabled to measure its velocity; as we got
deep in the Gulf it decreased: at the Pei-ho it frequently ran two and
two and a half knots, but far south it was sometimes hardly perceptible;
it is worthy of notice, too, that the perpendicular rise and fall
decreased from ten feet off the Pei-ho, to one, or at most two feet, in
the bottom of the Gulf.
[Sidenote: Bottom of the Gulf.]
The most southern point of our track was 37º 15' north; at this time we
could perceive the low coast stretching to the east and west; the
distance it is difficult to assign very accurately, but it was probably
seven or eight miles, for with a glass we could perceive a number of
people on the shore. I took great pains to ascertain the latitude stated
above, by the meridian altitudes of several stars; the longitude is 1º
39' east of the Pei-ho, or 119º 28' east of Greenwich.
[Sidenote: South-eastern side different from the opposite.]
The coast from the south-west corner of the Gulf to the peninsula of
Teu-choo-foo, is of a totally different character from that opposite to
it, for it is high, and well marked: a range of mountains stretches from
south-west to north-east, at the distance of three or four leagues
inland; their outline is peaked, and they are intersected by deep
ravines without any verdure; the summits are also barren.
[Sidenote: Mount Ellis.]
One of these mountains is very remarkable, having two peaks or paps by
which it can be distinguished at the distance of fifty miles, and bears
the same aspect when viewed from all parts of the Gulf. It lies in 37º
6' north, and 2º 11' east of the Pei-ho, or 120º east of Greenwich. It
has been called Mount Ellis, in honour of Mr. Ellis, the third
commissioner of the Embassy.
[Sidenote: Aspect of the coast.]
[Sidenote: Jane's Isle.]
[Sidenote: Douglas Island.]
Between this range of hills and the shore, there is a lower belt of
elevated ground in a state of high cultivation, covered with many towns
and villages, and interspersed with scattered trees and several
extensive woods; the ground, too, presents a varied surface, so that the
whole offers a pleasing contrast with the rugged land behind. There are
two small islands on this line of coast; the southern one lies in 37º
21' north, and 2º 5' east of the Pei-ho; the other is in 37º 28' north,
and 2º 19' east of the Pei-ho.
[Sidenote: Dangerous shoal.]
There is a dangerous shoal about five leagues off the shore, abreast of
these islands, upon which the Lyra nearly struck at midnight on the
17th instant. When at anchor just outside the shoal, the south island
bore south 20º east, and the other, east 21º south; on the shoal there
was two and a half fathoms, hard bottom. It seems to extend in a north
and south direction, and is very narrow. It lies in 37º 32' north, which
I ascertained by altitudes of the pole star, under favourable
circumstances. It is 1º 58' 30" east of the Pei-ho.
[Sidenote: Soundings and tides.]
The soundings on this side of the Gulf are somewhat deeper than on the
other, but not so deep as might have been expected from the bold nature
of the land. The ebb tide runs to the north-eastward, and the flood into
the Gulf.
[Sidenote: Winds.]
[Sidenote: Melville Point.]
[Sidenote: Teu-choo-foo city.]
The wind was south-east and quite light, from the 11th August to the
17th, when it shifted to north north-east till about eight P.M. when
close in shore near the southern of the two islands; it then blew off,
with all the appearance of a regular land breeze. On the 19th it blew a
gale of wind from the north-east, with a short, high sea; during the
gale we lay at anchor off a remarkable point, connected with the main
land by a low sandy neck; the ground felt soft to the lead, but it was
probably rocky under the mud, as both ships lost a bower anchor by the
cables being cut. This point lies in 37º 42' north, and 2º 35' east of
the Pei-ho. We found the city of Teu-choo-foo to lie in 3º 4' east of
the Pei-ho. The latitude observed in Teu-choo-foo roads was 37º 53'
north, and the longitude 2º 54' east of the Pei-ho. The western Meadow
Island bearing north.
[Sidenote: Cheatow Bay.]
The latitude of a small island at the north-east corner of the Bay of
Cheatow or Zee-a-tow, was determined by the sun's meridian altitude on
shore, to be 37º 35' 52" north, and longitude east of the Pei-ho 3º
45', or in 121º 34' east of Greenwich.
[Sidenote: Oei-hai-oei.]
The latitude of Oei-hai-oei was observed on shore to be 37º 30' 40"
north, and lies 4º 25' east of the Pei-ho.
[Sidenote: Variation of the compass.]
The variation of the compass in the Yellow Sea was found to be 2º 16'
westerly.
The rise and fall of the tide at the anchorage of the squadron off the
Pei-ho was twelve feet. It was high water at full, and change at III.
The flood tide runs to the west-south-west, and the ebb generally about
east and east-south-east. Its strength and direction are a good deal
influenced by the prevalent winds.
NOTICE TO ACCOMPANY THE CHART OF THE WEST COAST OF COREA.
[Sidenote: Inadequate time allowed for so extensive a survey.]
This chart extends from 34º to 38º north latitude, and from 124º to 127º
east longitude. The time of our stay on the coast being only nine days,
no great accuracy is to be expected, and this chart pretends to be
little more than an eye-draught, checked by chronometers and meridian
altitudes of the sun and stars. Under circumstances of such haste, much
has unavoidably been left untouched, and what is now given is presented
with no great confidence.
[Sidenote: General remarks on the methods followed in the survey.]
What follows is extracted from notes made at the time by Mr. Clifford
and myself. The longitudes by chronometer have all been carefully
recomputed, and the greatest care was taken in ascertaining the various
latitudes. The true bearings are in every instance set down, the
variation being allowed for at the moment. The variation of the compass
recorded in this notice, was determined by two azimuth compasses, and
the method recommended by Captain Flinders, of repeating the
observations by turning the compass first one way and then the other,
was invariably followed.
[Illustration: Track _of His Majesty's Ship_ ALCESTE _and_ LYRA _Sloop
along the Western Coast of the PENINSULA of_ COREA by _Captain Basil Hall R.N._]
[Sidenote: The ships leave China.]
[Sidenote: Make the coast of Corea.]
[Sidenote: Sir James Hall's group.]
[Sidenote: Anchorage on the south side of an island.]
His Majesty's ships Alceste and Lyra, after quitting the port of
Oei-hai-oei, which is in latitude 37º 30' 40" north, and longitude 122º
16' east, on the north coast of Shantung Promontory, stood to the
northward and eastward till in latitude 38º north, and then ran to the
eastward. On the morning of the 1st of September, 1816, we saw the land,
bearing about east. By sights with chronometer on the meridian of these
islands, we ascertained that the west end of the northern one lies in
124º 44-1/2' east. The latitude of the south end of the eastern island
was ascertained by meridian altitude of the sun to be 37º 44-1/2' north.
There is a rocky white islet off the west end of the middle island. We
had from twenty to thirty fathoms on rounding the south-west end of the
islands, but on the south side of the southern one there is a bight with
seven fathoms, black sand in the centre: here we anchored. There is good
anchorage all over the bay, which is sheltered from all winds except
between west south-west and south-east, being open to the southward.
There are two villages here. From the top of the highest peak on this
island, which is about seven or eight hundred feet high, we could
discern the main land of Corea, high and rugged, stretching north
north-west and south south-east, distant from eight to ten leagues.
Along the coast abreast of us there were seen many islands. The channel
between the middle island of the group and the one we were upon appeared
clear and broad; but the northern and middle islands seemed connected by
a reef which shews above water at several places.
[Sidenote: Character of the inhabitants.]
The inhabitants were suspicious and unfriendly: we saw some cattle and
many fowls, but neither money nor any thing else that we had could
induce them to part with either.
[Sidenote: Lose sight of the coast.]
In the evening we weighed and stood to the southward; next morning there
was no land in sight. At noon we were in longitude 124º 47' 52" east,
and latitude 36º 44-1/2' north, no land in sight. We hauled in shore to
the eastward, and anchored in the night in deep water.
[Sidenote: Group of five islands.]
[Sidenote: Bearings.]
3rd of September.--Weighed at 3.30 and stood in shore; at 7.45 A.M. we
were due south of the western of a group of islands. Many sights were
taken as we passed to settle the place of this group: it lies between
125º 42-1/2' east, and 125º 57-1/2' east, and in latitude 36º 44' north.
After passing this group we stood to the south-east towards a vast
cluster of islands: at noon, when we were just entering the cluster, the
latitude was observed 36º 18' 21" north, and longitude 126º 10' east.
The south-west extreme of the islands bore south 40º west. There were
eight islands near us between south-east and south-west, and a high
bluff dark rock south one-quarter east, four miles: and on the main land
a very high hill, east 19º north. When we had got well among the islands
it fell calm, and we anchored in eight and a half fathoms. It remained
calm during the night.
[Sidenote: Run among the islands.]
4th of September.--Weighed on a breeze springing up, and stood in shore.
Observed in 36º 13' north, longitude 126º 30' east; at this time the
following bearings were taken.
[Sidenote: Bearings.]
A remarkable peak on the main land, east.
High mountain on the main land, east 38-1/2º north.
White cliff on the east end of the fourth island to the left of the wide
entrance into the cluster, north.
Small round island, north 30º west.
Another, north 35º west.
Extremes of a large bluff island from north 38º west, to north 32-1/2º
west.
Rock, north 72º west.
Outer island, north 75º west.
Extremes of the outer cluster, from north 77-1/2 west, to west 1º south.
Large island, from west 14º 30' south, to west 18º south.
[Sidenote: Basil's Bay.]
[Sidenote: Unsocial disposition of the inhabitants.]
These islands being within from ten to fifteen miles, were laid down by
estimated distances, but it was quite impossible to assign places to the
immense number of others which stretched away to the south and
south-east, as far as the eye could reach. We stood in shore for the
purpose of discovering whether there was any place of shelter in the
main land, but in general it proved shallow and unsafe. At length we
discovered a bay which promised shelter, but on running into it, the
depth was found not to exceed three or four fathoms. This bay is open
towards the south, and is formed by a curved tongue of land on the north
and west. The longitude of the south end of this point is 126º 42' 22"
east, and latitude 36º 7' 38" north. We remained here during the night,
and the forenoon of the 5th. The natives came on board, but made great
objections to our landing.
[Sidenote: Tides.]
The tide rose and fell fifteen feet and a half; it was low water at 8
P.M., and high water at 2.30 A.M. This was two and a half days before
full moon.
The Alceste's boats were sent to sound in the eastern quarter, but they
found shoal water every where.
[Sidenote: Proceed to the south-westward.]
5th of September.--At 11 A.M. we got under weigh and stood to the
south-west among the islands, carrying seven, eight, nine, ten, to
fifteen fathoms, and occasionally deepening to seventeen fathoms. At
4.45 we observed in longitude 126º 24-1/2' east, and latitude 35º 52'
north at this time.
[Sidenote: Bearings.]
Two islands bore north half east, seven miles.
A remarkable small black island, west 32º, north four miles.
Another, west 22º north, seven miles.
A range of islands, from east 10º north, to east 16º south.
A long island, from south 25º east, to south 11º east.
The islands off which we anchored on the 2nd instant bearing about north
10º west.
Two islands, from south 16º west, to south 25º west.
[Sidenote: Main land.]
The main land from south south-east to north-east, high and rugged.
We had a sea breeze to-day, and fine weather. Variation 2º 10' westerly.
We ran on by moonlight till 11 P.M., and then anchored among the
islands. Latitude, observed by Polaris 35º 26' north. Longitude, at
anchor by chronometer next morning 126º 23' 22" east. From this spot the
main land was seen from east 12º north, to south 20º east.
[Sidenote: Bearings.]
A rock, west 7º south, four miles.
An island, from west 15º north, to west 31º north, 4-1/2'.
Three islands, extending from west 36º south, to west 45º south, 3'.
Two distant ones in the same direction.
Cluster of islands, from west 64º south, to west 84-1/2º south.
Large island, north 12º west, ten or twelve miles.
A cluster of islands, from north 15º east, to north 28º east.
Two distant islands, north 32º east.
Two others, north 42º east.
[Sidenote: Channels between the islands generally deep.]
6th of September.--Weighed and stood to the southward. At noon observed
in 35º 17' north, longitude 126º 28-1/2' east, being then in the centre
of a semicircle of islands, extending from north-east to south-east and
south-west. During the forenoon the flood tide set strong to the north
north-east against us. Most of the channels between the islands were
deep, but to-day we tried one which had not more than five and a half
fathoms. At 4.30. took sights, when a long bluff island bore east
north-east a quarter of a mile. Longitude 126º 6' 37" east; latitude 35º
6' north. This island is the most westerly of the range of islands which
lie between the latitude 35º and 36º north. High and connected land was
faintly discernible to the eastward. The soundings were generally from
nine to fifteen fathoms, deepening in most cases on approaching the
bluff islands.
[Sidenote: Flood tide runs to the northward.]
[Sidenote: Windsor Castle.]
[Sidenote: Bearings.]
7th of September.--We anchored last night about ten o'clock in seventeen
fathoms; the flood tide had made; it ran north nearly three miles an
hour, till four A.M. when we got under weigh, and drifted fast to the
southward with the ebb. At 9.30. got sights, which gave longitude 125º
52' 45" east, latitude 34º 42' north; at this time a very remarkable
hill on an island bore east 8º south; it has the appearance of a turret
or large chimney. The other bearings from this spot were--
Western extreme of a large island stretching west north-west, and east
south-east; north 27º, east 4 or 5'.
Round rock, north 18º east, 8'.
Cluster of islands from north 50º west, to north 74º west.
Round bluff small island, west 9º south.
Large island, west 42º south, 7 or eight leagues.
Two small distant islands, west 53º south, 10' leagues.
Small island, south 11º east.
[Sidenote: Soundings.]
[Sidenote: Variation of the compass.]
Extreme of distant land, south 37º east: besides, as usual, innumerable
distant islands. The flood tide made against us between ten and eleven.
The soundings this morning have been from twenty-three to nineteen
fathoms. The weather extremely hot and the water smooth. The ebb made
about four, and there being no wind, it carried us rapidly towards some
rocks joining two islands. We anchored in twenty-one fathoms. The
variation of the compass 2-1/2º westerly. The bearings at anchor this
evening were as follows:
[Sidenote: Bearings.]
Small island, south 3º 22' east.
Large island, from south to south 20-1/2º east.
A small island, south 22º east.
Another, south 28-1/2º east.
High bluff island, south 31º east.
Island from south 9º east, to south 18º west.
Sharp peaked rock, south 25º 40' west.
Island from south 63º west, to south 65º west.
Distant island, from south 63-1/2º west, to south 66º west, nine or ten
leagues.
Distant small island, west 1º 10' north, seven or eight leagues.
[Sidenote: Bearings.]
Distant island, from west 6º 39' north, to west 9º north, formed of one
large flat space and five hummocks, eight or nine leagues.
Island, west 28º 50' north.
Large island, from west 31º north, to west 38º 19' north.
Round bluff island, off which we observed at noon to-day, west 39º 52'
north.
Distant small island, west 44º 28' north, four or five leagues.
Large island, from west 71º north, to west 81º 30' north.
An island, afterwards called Thistle Island, south 79º east, to east 14º
52' north, besides numberless islands, in thick clusters, extending as
far as the eye could reach, in the north-east and east quarters. In the
afternoon a boat went inside Thistle Island, and reported that there was
a clear anchorage.
[Sidenote: Sail into Murray's Sound.]
[Sidenote: Latitude observed on shore.]
[Sidenote: Longitude.]
[Sidenote: Tides.]
[Sidenote: Variation of the compass.]
8th of September.--At noon we weighed and sailed round the north end of
Thistle Island, carrying seventeen fathoms, till the north end bore
south; we then shoaled to ten and eleven, and one cast nine fathoms. On
rounding the island we steered south, and anchored in eleven fathoms,
soft bottom, about four hundred yards from the middle part of the
island. The islands at this place are so situated as to form a capacious
and secure anchorage, with passages among the islands in all directions.
The latitude observed with an artificial horizon on shore, was 34º 22'
39" north; longitude by mean of two chronometers, agreeing nearly, 126º
2' 52" east. The tides run at the springs at the rate of three and four
knots, the flood to the north north-east; the rise and fall is fifteen
feet. Strong eddies are felt among the islands. The variation of the
compass is 2º 30' westerly.
[Sidenote: Appearance of the Amherst Isles, from the top of a peaked
island.]
On the 9th of September Captain Maxwell and a party went to the summit
of a high peak, on an island to the south-east of the ships, in latitude
34º 20' north, and longitude 126º 6' east. From this spot, elevated
about seven or eight hundred feet above the sea, the view of the islands
was very striking: we endeavoured to number them, but our accounts
varied, owing to the difficulty of estimating the number in the distant
groups; it will serve, however, to give some idea of this splendid
scene, to say that the lowest enumeration gave one hundred and twenty
islands.
Many of these islands are large and high, almost all are cultivated, and
their forms present an endless diversity.
High land was seen to rise above the distant islands in the east and
north-east; this probably was the main land of Corea, for it seemed more
extensive and connected than any group of islands we had seen.
[Sidenote: Difficulty of estimating the number of islands on this
coast.]
We had now ran along upwards of two hundred miles of this coast, and at
every part which we approached, the islands were no less thickly sown
than here; so that our attempts to enumerate them all, or even to assign
places on the chart to those which we passed the nearest to, became
after a time quite hopeless.
[Sidenote: Winds and weather.]
During our stay upon the coast of Corea, between the 1st and 10th of
September, the winds were principally from the northward; the weather
was moderate and clear; and occasionally calm during the heat of the
day.
[Sidenote: Barometer and thermometer.]
The barometer rose and fell gradually between 29. 78. and 29. 98. The
thermometer was never above 82º, and never, even at night, under 72º For
further details respecting the winds and weather, see the Meteorological
Journal.
[Illustration: Chart of GREAT LOO CHOO Island
_Surveyed in H.M. Sloop LYRA by Captain Basil Hall_
1816]