CHAPTER II.

Enter the Japan Sea--Sulphur Island--Volcano--See the Great Loo-Choo

Island--Lyra nearly wrecked--First Interview with the

Natives--Anchor at Napakiang--Natives crowd on Board--Their

interesting Appearance and Manners--Several Chiefs visit the

Alceste--Land to make Observations--Astonishment of the Natives--Six

Chiefs visit the Ships--Alceste and Lyra proceed farther in Shore--A

Chief of high Rank waits upon Captain Maxwell--Return his

Visit--Feast--Projected Survey of the Anchorage--Visit Reef

Island--The Lyra sent to look for another Harbour--Arrangements for

landing the Alceste's Stores--Description of the Temple and

Garden--First Acquaintance with Madera--Study of the Language.

After leaving Corea, we stood to the southward and eastward, with a

strong breeze from the north, and a mountainous swell from the

north-east. Shortly after daybreak on the 13th of September, we saw

Sulphur Island, in the south-west quarter, and by eleven in the forenoon

were close up to it. We intended to land, but were prevented by the high

wind, which caused so great a surf all round the island, as to render

this impracticable. The sulphuric volcano from which the island takes

its name is on the north-west side; it emits white smoke, and the smell

of sulphur is very strong on the lee side of the crater. The cliffs

near the volcano are of a pale yellow colour, interspersed with brown

streaks: the ground at this place is very rugged, as the strata lie in

all directions, and are much broken; on the top is a thin coat of brown

grass. The south end of the island is of considerable height, of a deep

blood red colour, with here and there a spot of bright green: the

strata, which are here nearly horizontal, are cut by a whin dyke running

from the top to the bottom of the cliff, projecting from its face like a

wall. As the weather still looked threatening, we gave up the intention

of examining this spot, and proceeded to the southward till four

o'clock, at which time land was seen in the south-west quarter; but as

there was not sufficient daylight to close with it, we hauled off to the

westward for the night. Shortly after sunset the sky became overcast,

the wind veered about from one point to another, the air became suddenly

quite chill, the sea rose high, and every thing, in short, seemed to

indicate an approaching tyfoong or hurricane. All our preparations were

made to encounter a violent tempest; but we were much pleased at finding

it turn out nothing more than an ordinary gale of wind.

14th of September.--The weather was still stormy, but being anxious to

close with the land, we bore up, and steered in the supposed direction

of the Great Lieou Kieou, or Loo-choo Island. At eight o'clock we saw

the Sugar Loaf of Captain Broughton, which is a small green island,

having a high remarkable cone in the middle. We left this to the

eastward, and continued steering to the south south-west, hoping to get

to leeward of the great island before night, where we might remain in

smooth water till the weather became fine. While going along at a quick

rate, we suddenly saw breakers close to us; we instantly hauled to the

wind, and made all the sail we could carry. Our situation was now very

critical, for the swell caused by the recent gale checked our way

considerably, and a lee current drifted us gradually towards the reef.

From the mast head we could look down upon the reef, which was of a

circular form, with a low island on its southern side; the surf broke

all round, but in the inside the water was quite smooth, and being only

a few feet deep, the coral, which was of a bright green, appeared

distinctly through it. At the distance of one-third of a mile from where

we were, no bottom was to be found with our lead lines, so that

anchoring was out of the question. After being in this unpleasant

predicament for some time, we succeeded in weathering the western end of

the reef, which we had no sooner done, than we saw a passage four or

five miles wide, by which we proceeded to leeward of the reef island,

where we found the water perfectly smooth. The Alceste rounded the reef

without difficulty, being half a league farther off than the Lyra,

which, as usual, had been stationed a-head to look out, but had not

perceived the danger sooner, owing to the extreme haziness of the

weather.

15th of September.--In the morning, it was arranged that the Lyra should

proceed in shore in search of a harbour, while the frigate remained in

deep water. At ten o'clock I thought we had discovered a place of

security, and having anchored the Lyra, sent three boats to examine it.

A sort of harbour was found, formed by coral reefs; but the passages

being all intricate for large ships, and the water shallow inside, it is

by no means safe. We fell in with several people in canoes; one man, who

seemed to know what we were searching for, directed us to a point of

land to the northward, and waved for us to go round it. While the boats

were away, several natives came off to the Lyra. No people that we have

yet met with have been so friendly; for the moment they came alongside,

one handed a jar of water up to us, and another a basket of boiled sweet

potatoes, without asking or seeming to wish for any recompense. Their

manners were gentle and respectful; they uncovered their heads when in

our presence, bowed whenever they spoke to us; and when we gave them

some rum, they did not drink it till they had bowed to every person

round. Another canoe went near the Alceste, and a rope being thrown to

them, they tied a fish to it, and then paddled away. All this seemed to

promise well, and was particularly grateful after the cold repulsive

manners of the Coreans.

The day was spent in trying to beat round the point to windward, but the

tide was too strong against us, and when it became dark, we found

ourselves awkwardly situated. To the east and west of us there were

islands at the distance of a few miles. To leeward was a circular coral

reef, just appearing above the surface at low water; and to windward

were seen the reefs upon which we were so nearly wrecked on Saturday. As

the exact position of these numerous dangers was unknown to us, we were

determined to anchor for the night, though in eighty fathoms water.

16th of September.--At daylight we weighed, and beat to windward all the

morning; but owing to the tide being contrary, it was two o'clock before

we passed the point mentioned above; which we had no sooner done, than

we came in sight of an extensive town, having a harbour filled with

vessels at anchor. On steering towards the town, we had to sound our way

cautiously amongst coral reefs, which were tolerably well defined by the

surf breaking upon them[6]. The Alceste followed as soon as we had

ascertained that the passage was clear, and both ships anchored at the

distance of half a mile from the town.

In a short time we were surrounded by canoes, full of the natives, who,

with their children, flocked on board. They wear a loose dress, tied

with a belt round their waist; their hair is brought tight up from all

sides, and formed into a knot on the top of the head, with two metal

pins stuck in it. In the course of an hour, a native came on board who

appeared to be somewhat higher in rank than the rest; and we now

discovered, to our great satisfaction, that this man understood our

Chinese servant, who had been of no use to us at Corea. As it was found

that there were other chiefs on shore superior in rank to this man,

Captain Maxwell declined receiving his visit; as well with the view of

inducing the principal people to come on board, as of maintaining an

appearance of dignity, a point of great importance in all transactions

with the Chinese and their dependents, who invariably repay

condescension with presumption. As we had heard of these people being

tributary to China, it was natural to conclude that there might be some

similarity in manners. At all events, it was evidently much easier at

any future time to be free and cordial with them, after having assumed a

distance and reserve in the first instance, than it would be to repress

insolence, if at first encouraged by too hasty familiarity.

Before this man went on shore, he requested to know the reason of our

coming into this port; the interpreter was instructed to acquaint him

that the ships had experienced very bad weather, and had been a long

time at sea; that the large ship had sprung a leak, and required repairs

which could only be done in a secure harbour: further explanations, it

was observed, would be given to the superior chiefs when they came on

board. We had been prepared for these inquiries, not only from the

reception we had met with at Corea, but from the well-known character of

the nations in this quarter of the globe; and it was so far fortunate,

that the Alceste was actually in want of repairs; because to have

assigned curiosity, and a desire of gaining information as our object,

to people wholly unconscious of such feelings, would naturally have led

them to ascribe our actions to some more interested, and consequently

more dangerous motive.

The canoes which we have seen to-day are mostly made of one piece of

wood; they have two sails, and are moved with considerable velocity, by

two or more paddles, assisted by an oar over the stern, which acts both

as a scull and a rudder. There is a neat low seat, made of rattans, for

each person in the canoe. As the day closed, the fishing canoes came in

great numbers from sea, and all came on board the ships on their way;

some of the fishermen pulled up our lines and baited the hooks. The

whole shore abreast of the ships was covered with people, but the crowd

was greatest on two pier-heads, forming the entrance to the harbour; and

the variety of colour in their dresses made this a very lively

exhibition. In the evening, Captain Maxwell and I rowed round to examine

the anchorage, which we found tolerably clear of rocks. An officer was

at the same time sent to examine the inner harbour, but he did not go

far within the entrance, which was much too shallow for the frigate.

On returning to the Lyra, I found that Mr. Clifford had been

entertaining several respectable looking natives who had paid him a

visit. As they readily comprehended his desire to know their words for

various things, he has succeeded in collecting a considerable number,

among which we are surprised to find their name for tobacco the same as

ours; all the others are quite new to us.

17th of September.--I carried the interpreter to the Alceste, after

breakfast, where I found two chiefs, who had been on board some time,

and had been taken care of by the officers, as Captain Maxwell was not

prepared to receive them. A message was then sent to intimate that the

Ta-yin (a Chinese title, used also by these people to persons of rank)

was desirous of seeing the chiefs, and they were introduced into the

after-cabin, where they were received in form. They objected to sitting

down, making at the same time many low obeisances, which they did by

stooping the body, and raising the hands, closed one over the other, to

their face. Their scruples about being seated were at length overcome,

and the first chief took his place on Captain Maxwell's left hand, the

next on my left, and a third, who was evidently of a lower rank, sat

beyond the second. The chiefs sat respectfully silent, and Captain

Maxwell finding that he was expected to speak first, communicated to

them that the ships under his command belonged to the King of England;

that they had gone to China with an Embassador, carrying presents to the

Emperor, at Pekin; that on their way back to Canton, they had

experienced very bad weather, and had been obliged to put in here to

refit, and to procure supplies.

In reply, they expressed their willingness to assist us as much as lay

in their power, but said that the harbour was too shallow for so large a

ship, and recommended our proceeding to another harbour called

Kinching, which they described as being secure and commodious, and only

a few hours sail from this anchorage: they offered to furnish pilots and

a boat to conduct us. Captain Maxwell, however, was unwilling to quit

this anchorage unless certain of finding a better; he therefore proposed

to send the Lyra to examine and report upon the harbour alluded to. The

chiefs paused upon this, and said they could not take upon them to send

pilots to the Brig without consulting the Great Man on shore. We were

very curious to know who this great personage might be, but they evaded

all our inquiries. Captain Maxwell asked where the king resided, and

intimated his intention of waiting upon him; to this they strongly

objected, declaring moreover, that it was impossible, as his majesty

lived a thousand miles off. They did not seem aware of their

inconsistency, when they undertook, immediately afterwards, to get an

answer from court about pilots for the Lyra, in a few hours.

We had been led to hope, from the frankness and kindness of these

people, that no restraint would be imposed on us; and we were the more

disappointed at observing, that whenever we spoke of landing, or asked

any questions about the king, the chiefs became uneasy, and replied in a

mysterious manner. We consoled ourselves, however, with the

supposition, that upon further acquaintance their apprehension would

wear off.

Business being over, the chiefs were asked to walk round the cabin, an

invitation which they accepted with manifest satisfaction. During the

conference they had preserved a gravity suited to an important ceremony,

and, though surrounded by new and curious objects, had never expressed

the least curiosity. They were now no longer formal, and looked over the

various articles with attention, taking particular notice of the globes,

books, and mirrors. Their manners are remarkably gentle and unassuming.

They are observant, and not without curiosity, but they require

encouragement to induce them to come forward, being restrained, it would

seem, by a genteel self-denial, from gratifying curiosity, lest it might

be thought obtrusive. Their dress is singularly graceful; it consists of

a loose flowing robe, with very wide sleeves, tied round the middle by a

broad rich belt or girdle of wrought silk, a yellow cylindrical cap, and

a neat straw sandal, over a short cotton boot or stocking. Two of the

chiefs wore light yellow robes, the other dark blue streaked with white,

all of cotton. The cap is flat at top, and appears to be formed by

winding a broad band diagonally round a frame, in such a manner, that at

each turn a small portion of the last fold shall be visible above in

front, and below at the hinder part. The sandal is kept on by a stiff

straw band passing over the instep, and joining the sandal near the

heel; this band is tied to the forepart by a slight string, drawn

between the great toe and the next, the stocking having a division like

the finger of a glove for the great toe. They all carry fans, which they

stick in their girdles when not in use, and each person has a short

tobacco pipe in a small bag, hanging, along with the pouch, at the

girdle. When they had satisfied themselves with looking over the cabin,

they went away, with a promise of returning in the evening as soon as

the answer from the Great Man should arrive.

During all this morning, the whole space between the ships and the shore

has been covered with canoes, each containing about ten persons. The

scene was very lively, for few of the parties which came to visit the

ships remained long on board, so that the canoes were continually

passing backwards and forwards, and the number which came in this way

must have been immense. They all seemed highly gratified at being

allowed to go wherever they liked over the ships, nor was this liberty

ever abused. The manners even of the lowest classes are genteel and

becoming; their curiosity is great, but it never makes them rudely

inquisitive: their language is musical, and in most cases easy of

pronunciation. We heard a boat song to-day, the air of which was sweet

and plaintive; we tried in vain to catch the words, and unfortunately,

none of us had skill enough to note down the air. We observed several

people in canoes, making drawings of the ships, but they hid their work

when they were observed. In consequence of what had been said last night

of our wanting repairs, a party of shipwrights and caulkers was sent on

board the Alceste this morning, but their tools were of a Lilliputian

order, and quite unsuited to the rough work required.

The variety of colour and pattern in the dresses of the people to-day,

is remarkable. Many wear printed cottons, others have cotton dresses

with the pattern drawn on it by hand, instead of being stamped; but

blue, in all its shades, is the prevalent colour, though there were many

dresses resembling in every respect Highland tartans. The children, in

general, wear more shewy dresses than the men, and of the dress of the

women we can say nothing, as none have yet been seen. Every person has

one of the girdles before described, which is always of a different

colour from the dress, and is, in general, richly ornamented with

flowers in embossed silk, and sometimes with gold and silver threads.

This dress is naturally so graceful, that even the lowest boatmen have

a picturesque appearance. Their hair, which is of a glossy black, is

shaved off the crown, but the bare place is concealed by their mode of

dressing the hair in a close knot over it. Their beards and mustachios

are allowed to grow, and are kept neat and smooth. They are rather low

in stature, but are well formed, and have an easy graceful carriage,

which suits well with their flowing dress. Their colour is not good,

some being very dark and others nearly white, but in most instances they

are of a deep copper. This is fully compensated for by the sweetness and

intelligence of their countenance. Their eyes, which are black, have a

placid expression, and their teeth are regular and beautifully white. In

deportment they are modest, polite, timid, and respectful, and in short,

appear to be a most interesting and amiable people.

Two of our friends who had visited us in the morning, and whose names we

have discovered to be Ookooma and Jeema, came on board again about half

past five, and staid an hour; they had not received any answer, they

said, from the Great Man, and therefore could not send pilots to the

"hoonee gua," or little ship. They were accompanied by a chief whom we

took to be a Chinese from his looks, and his appearing to understand the

interpreter better than the others. His formal and suspicious manner did

not promise so well as that of the others. They came to say that a

present of stock and vegetables had been sent to the ships. It was

intimated to them that we intended to land the next day, and upon their

objecting to this, we said that our wish was to wait upon the Great Man;

to which they replied, that no person answering to this description

resided here. We then said, that it was right we should return their

visit. This argument they combated by saying that they were men of

unequal rank to us, and therefore nowise entitled to such an honour; and

that we, at the same time, would be degrading ourselves by such undue

condescension. This having failed, Captain Maxwell told them of his

illness; upon which, our new acquaintance, who seemed more earnestly

bent against our landing than the others, offered to send a physician on

board to see him. Captain Maxwell replied, that his own doctor had

recommended a ride on shore; upon which they laughed, and turned the

discourse to something else.

In this way every proposal to land, or even allusion to the shore, was

industriously put aside; and as it was our wish to gain their good will,

the matter was dropped for the present. Before they went away, Captain

Maxwell, pointing to their pipes, begged them to smoke if they wished

it; they were grateful for this considerate attention, but would not on

any account begin till we shewed them the example, by smoking with

pipes which they prepared for us. They appeared more at their ease after

this incident, and after sitting for some time, took leave for the night

on the most friendly terms.

18th of September.--Captain Maxwell sent to me to say that he meant to

land on a point at some distance from the town, in order to observe the

sun's meridian altitude with an artificial horizon. Just as I was

setting out to accompany him, I was taken by surprise by two

well-dressed natives, who were halfway down the cabin ladder before I

knew of their approach. One came to superintend the measurement of the

Lyra, and the other, who seemed of inferior rank, to explain why some

poultry, only then sent, had not come on the preceding night, along with

the other presents. I forgot to mention, that a bullock, two hogs, two

goats, a dozen and a half of fowls, some candles, wood, and water, were

sent to each of the ships. I asked them to sit down, and they were so

well satisfied with the Constantia which I gave them, that they remained

for some time; owing to which delay, I did not reach the shore till the

time for observing the sun had gone by. I found Captain Maxwell with

Ookooma and several of the chiefs, and an immense crowd of the natives,

all of whom had left the town on seeing the boat put off, and had

hastened to this spot, either out of curiosity or respect, or more

probably to watch our proceedings. At our request, Ookooma, who appears

to possess considerable authority, made the whole crowd, chiefs and all,

sit down on the grass in a circle round us. Their astonishment at our

operations was strongly expressed in their countenances, and, indeed,

our apparatus and behaviour must have looked, to perfect strangers,

somewhat magical.

In the first place the quicksilver, which to them would appear like

melted metal, was poured into a trough, in a fine stream from a wooden

bottle; while it was running out the people repeated in an under tone

"yi, yi, yi, yi!" but were silent when the glass roof was placed over

the trough. The circular instrument and sextant, fixed on stands, next

attracted their notice, and they looked on in profound silence while we

were taking the sun's altitude. As we were too late for the desired

observation, we amused the natives by letting them look at the two

reflected images of the sun through the telescope of the instruments.

Ookooma was the first who looked, and being quite unprepared for what he

saw, started back in astonishment, as if he had unconsciously beheld

something supernatural and forbidden. The other chiefs, in their turn,

placed themselves at the instrument, as well as several old men who

stepped forward from the crowd. Some testified their surprise by a

sudden exclamation; others were perfectly calm, so that we could not

guess what they thought; and some held up their hands, and looked as if

the whole matter was totally beyond the reach of their comprehension.

When this was over, and there was no longer any necessity for the crowd

being seated, they closed round and watched us while we were putting the

instruments up. Some of the boys held out their hands for quicksilver,

with which they ran off, quite happy.

During this time we were about fifty yards from the foot of a cliff, on

the brow of which was posted a group of women with baskets on their

heads; we were unfortunately not near enough to discern their features,

nor to make out their dress distinctly; it appeared, however, to be like

that of the men, though somewhat shorter, and without any girdle round

the waist.

The rock here rises in perpendicular rugged cliffs of coral, with a

number of rude square excavations on its face, which, at first sight,

appear to have been worn by the elements, but on examination shew

evident traces of art. Most of these caves are closed up by a wall of

loose stones, but in one, of which the mouth was open, several human

bones were found lying amongst the sand. On removing a stone from a

closed cave, a vase was observed in the inside, of an elegant shape; the

people signified to us that these were the remains of the dead, but we

did not make out distinctly whether the bones or the ashes only were

thus preserved. They made no objections to our examining these caves,

though they certainly were not pleased with it. No notice was taken of

what Captain Maxwell and I did; but Mr. Clifford, who had remained below

collecting words from some intelligent natives, was strongly recommended

by Ookooma to go back to the boat; he walked up, however, without

opposition, to the cave which we had been examining, and they ceased to

importune him. A number of little boys who had observed us occasionally

pulling flowers and plants, ran about collecting for us, and after

presenting what they had gathered, with much politeness, ran away

laughing with an arch expression of ridicule at our curiosity.

On our way back, instead of going directly off to the ships, we coasted

along shore in our boats, which gave us a new view of a stone bridge, of

one arch, connecting two parts of the town. On the south side of the

bridge we passed a space of considerable extent, probably set apart as a

burying ground. We saw here a number of large horse-shoe tombs like

those used in China, whitewashed, and apparently kept in good repair.

Most of the tombs, however, are in the form of small square houses, with

low pyramidal roofs; some of these were tiled, others thatched. It is

evident that, in what relates to the dead, they follow, in some

respects, the Chinese customs.

[Illustration: NAPAKIANG.]

The whole coast at this place is of coral cliffs, the base of which

appears to have been scooped out by the action of the sea. As this

excavation is at some places higher than the waves of the sea can be

supposed to have ever reached, there is difficulty in assigning the sea

as the cause; yet the roof of the excavation is horizontal for a great

extent, and its appearance, in every other respect, suggests that it has

been formed by the dashing of the waves. There is, moreover, some

difficulty in accounting for coral cliffs being so much above the level

of the sea, in which, according to every supposition, they must have

been formed.

The scenery here, as in most countries in these climates, does not admit

of a satisfactory description. It may be said, however, that it is more

pleasing to the eye than that of islands near the equator, where the

vegetation is so profusely luxuriant, as to overload the picture with

foliage to the exclusion of every thing else. Here there is much

variety; the numerous groves of pine-trees give some parts of it an

English air, but the style of landscape is what is called tropical. The

general character of the scenery at this spot is faithfully preserved in

the drawing of Napakiang.

19th of September.--No answer having yet come from the Great Man, we

begin to apprehend that they are going to treat us in Chinese style, and

exclude us from their country altogether. We have tried in vain to

discover whether the King is at this place, or a hundred, or as some

maintain, a thousand miles off; in the mean time, as we know the island

to be not more than sixty miles long, it is fair to suppose that they

wish to deceive us.

We conjecture that a large building on a rising ground, three or four

miles from us in an eastern direction, with two flag-staffs near it, is

the palace mentioned in the account quoted by Pere Gaubil, Lettres

Edifiantes et Curieuses, Tom. XXIII. The natives always refuse to give

any information when asked about this building.

Whenever the natives come on board, if at all well dressed, they are

asked into the cabin, where we treat them with cherry brandy and

Constantia. In the course of conversation they contribute a number of

new words, and, in general, when they see what the object is, are very

willing to lend their assistance, and take much pains to teach us the

true pronunciation of their words. One man, however, who was not so

quick as they generally are, was in the cabin to-day for some time; Mr.

Clifford was getting from him the Loo-choo words for sour, sweet, salt,

&c.; and in order to make him comprehend the questions, made him taste

different things that were sour, sweet, and so on: the poor fellow stood

this very well, till some quassia was given to him to get the word

"bitter;" he had no sooner tasted it, than he ran off quite astonished

at the manner in which he had been entertained.

It blew hard this morning, so that there was little intercourse with the

shore; but towards sunset it moderated, and Ookooma, Jeema, and four

other Chiefs, came on board, bringing with them a present of a bullock,

two hogs, goats, and vegetables. The Chief whose name is Shayoon is the

most clever of them all; he is next in rank to Ookooma, but he generally

takes the lead in discussion; he has a quick intelligent look, with more

determination in his manner than any of the others. They were very

particular on all these state occasions to observe the order of

precedence, and no one sat down till his superior was seated. When any

subject was discussed, one at a time rose to speak, but not in order of

rank, and they never attempted to interrupt one another.

The weather at this moment looked so stormy, that I went on board the

Lyra to prepare for a gale; by which I lost a very interesting

conference with the chiefs. I learnt from Captain Maxwell afterwards,

that he had remonstrated with them on their inconsistency and the

pretended difficulty of getting answers from court; he gave them to

understand, that he did not conceive it was treating the King of England

with due respect to deny his officers permission to walk on shore.

Again, that they had promised to send pilots, but that none had come;

and that many other promises had not been performed. He desired the

interpreter to say, that he was not pleased with their telling him so

many different stories, all of which could not be true; first they said

that the bullocks, hogs, &c. were gifts from themselves; then, that they

were sent by the Great Man; then, that there was no Great Man here: in

fine, he urged them strongly to tell him the truth on all points. They

made the interpreter repeat six times over what Captain Maxwell had

desired him to say; they then consulted amongst themselves a long time,

and at last assured Captain Maxwell, that a reply to the communications

made by them to government would reach this place next day.

As the stock and vegetables received by the ships had, by this time,

amounted to a considerable quantity, a bag of dollars was offered to

them, and they were urged to take payment for what had been sent on

board; this offer, which had been made more than once before, was still

declined; upon which they were informed, that we considered it improper,

as servants of government, to receive presents to such an extent from

individuals. Upon this they gave their assurance, that the stock had

been sent on board by order of the Loo-choo government, on their being

informed that the King of another country's ships had arrived. No

payment they said could therefore be taken. With this Captain Maxwell

was satisfied. Their wish seems to be, to prevent our opening any

communication with their government, and they appear so decided upon

these matters, that they will probably succeed, notwithstanding all our

efforts.

The chiefs have dresses adapted to the state of the weather; yesterday

being cold and threatening, they all came on board with a sort of cloak

or great coat made of a thick blue stuff like woollen cloth, buttoned in

front. It is tighter than the ordinary dress, and is worn over it. It is

only in fine weather, and on state occasions, that they wear the band

turban, called by them "hatchee matchee;" at all other times they go

uncovered, having their hair dressed like the rest of the people.

20th of September.--The mercury in the barometer fell last night from

29. 72, to 29. 51, and the sky assumed a yellow appearance. We expected

a heavy gale, more particularly as it was so near the equinox, but we

were so sheltered by the land, that though it appeared to blow hard at

sea, we felt nothing of it where we lay.

Three or four canoes came round the south-west point of land this

forenoon; the people in them were supposed to have come from the other

side of the island, for they did not appear to have seen the ships

before. One of these people was much delighted with a looking-glass

which was shewn to him; he took it in his hands, and calling his

companions about him, shewed them in turn its effect. Having done so

several times, he held it opposite to his own face for four or five

minutes without altering his countenance in the least; at last he

smiled, and immediately and involuntarily nodded assent to the image in

the glass, which had so exactly expressed what he felt himself; he

seemed, however, aware, that it was a reflection of his own countenance,

as he pointed to himself, yet he could not restrain his curiosity from

looking behind, but instantly turned it round again. While the glass was

in his hands, he made us several long speeches, in which he frequently

repeated the word "Kagung," the Loo-choo name for mirror; but, from his

behaviour, it is probable he knew it only by name. One of this party

sold his "Jeewa" or head ornaments for a wine glass. Sometime

afterwards, the others saw a bottle, which they wished to purchase in

the same way; it was, however, given to them as a present, and they went

away very well satisfied. These canoes were of pine, from twelve to

twenty feet long, and from two to four wide; their anchor is made of

wood loaded with stones.

As no answer came this morning from the Great Man, Captain Maxwell took

the ships into a more secure anchorage at the north-east corner of the

bay; our first anchorage being too close to a reef, and moreover open to

the south-west winds. The place we had now shifted to, though apparently

exposed, is, in fact, sheltered by a chain of reefs under water outside

of us to the westward. By this change, we have been brought close to the

bridge spoken of before, and are now abreast the east end of the town:

the Lyra not being more than a quarter of a mile from the shore. A

strict watch is kept on shore, so that no boat leaves the ships without

being observed. Orders have been given for the whole anchorage to be

carefully sounded; in doing this, the boats often approach the shore,

and whenever this happens, a crowd of the natives, headed by one or

other of the chiefs, repair to the spot, and wave them to keep farther

off.

21st of September.--There appears to be some embargo upon the canoes,

for there has not been one near us this morning, and only one on board

the Alceste. It was found necessary to-day to move the frigate still

farther in, and four or five hawsers were laid out for the purpose of

warping her a-head. While this was going on, the beach, and all the

heights near us, were crowded with people, wondering, no doubt, how the

ship was made to move without sails, for the hawsers were low down, and

might have escaped their observation. In the canoe which visited the

Alceste, there came two men, who had not been seen before; they remained

but a short time, which was spent in examining the hawsers and the mode

of warping the ship. As soon as they had made themselves master of this

subject, they went on shore, as if to make a report. During their visit

they said little, being intent upon what was going on; but the

interpreter learnt from one of them, that a Great Man had actually come,

or was expected in the town to-day. A report prevails, that the King of

the island has lately been on board in disguise. We cannot trace the

report to any good foundation, and it is probably false. At the same

time, if his Majesty has any curiosity, it is not unlikely that he may

have come near enough to see such a strange sight as we must be.

It is possible that our moving up so close to the town has alarmed the

people, and may have prevented their visiting us as heretofore; at all

events, it is very unfair in our friends, the Chiefs, neither to let the

people come on board, nor to allow us to go on shore to look at them.

Our occupation in the mean time is to observe the natives through the

telescope placed on a table on the Lyra's poop. The stone bridge appears

to be a great thoroughfare, several roads from the country leading to

it; it seems also to be the only entrance to the town on this side.

Nobody crosses it without stopping to look at us, and a crowd of idle

people have taken post on and about it. We see a number of women coming

from the country with baskets on their heads. Their outer dress differs

from that of the men, it is open in front, and they have no girdle; they

have an under dress, or sack, which is also loose, but not open; in some

we can see that this comes nearly to the feet, in others just to the

knee, and we imagine that those who work in the fields have the short

dress: most of them allow their upper garment to flow out with the wind

behind them. We observe a woman carrying a child across the hip as in

India, with its hands on its mother's shoulder, while her arm is round

the child's waist. One young lady has been seen for some time amusing

herself by making a dog bark at the ships. We see women beating rice in

wooden mortars. On the banks of the stream which the bridge crosses,

there are a number of people washing clothes, which they perform in the

Indian way, by dipping the clothes in water and beating them on stones.

From one end of the beach to the other there is a range of people

watching us, they are formed here and there into groups; one of which,

on a craggy knoll abreast of the ships, has struck us as being

particularly interesting. A fine majestic looking man, whose full beard

and flowing garments remind us of a figure in the Cartoons of Raphael,

is standing in the middle of a circle of old men, who are lying on the

grass, and appear to be listening to him.

22nd of September.--This morning brings us no news, no permission to

land! A number of flags and streamers are displayed on the masts of the

vessels in the inner harbour, and there seems to be something going on

on shore; no boats have come to us, and we have no occupation but

looking through the glass, which, however, affords a good deal of

entertainment, particularly as the people whom we see with it act in the

usual way, being unconscious of our scrutiny.

In the afternoon a number of boats left the shore and proceeded to the

Alceste in procession. In the foremost boat there seemed to be a person

of consequence, whom we immediately conjectured to be the Great Man

alluded to by the people yesterday. He got on board the Alceste before

us, and the natives also had left their canoes, so that we found the

ship's decks crowded with people. The Chief, whom we found seated in the

cabin, was clothed in purple silk, with a light purple hatchee matchee.

An official communication of our history was now repeated at the old

man's request. He listened with great attention till Captain Maxwell

concluded his statement, by informing him that the ship was leaky and

required frequent pumping. He then begged permission to see this

operation, if it would not give too much trouble. As this was exactly

what we wished, the chain pumps were ordered to be got ready, and the

conference went on, consisting principally of compliments. Observing

that we took notice of his being a little deaf, he seemed anxious to

explain that this was the effect of age. He made us feel his pulse, and

look at the withered state of his hand, then taking ours and feeling the

pulse, held them up along with his own, and laughed with great good

humour at the contrast which age had produced. He was about sixty years

old, and his beard of thin hair was as white as snow: he had a

cheerfulness of expression, and a liveliness of manner, which are

remarkable for a man of his years. His manners were graceful and

elegant, and from the first moment he seemed quite at his ease. Every

thing about him, in short, indicated good-breeding, and a familiarity

with good society; and we could not help remarking his decided

superiority in appearance over the other chiefs.

When the pumps were ready, he was escorted to the main deck, where he

sat for some time in great admiration of the machinery; and seeing the

labour required to work it, he seemed really affected at our situation,

which he naturally thought must be very bad, from the immense quantity

of water thrown out by the pumps. The ship being upright, the water did

not run off freely from the deck, and in a short time it flowed round

the chair in which the old man was seated. Three or four of the sailors

seeing him somewhat uneasy at this inundation, took him up chair and

all, and placed him on a dry spot. The old gentleman was surprised, not

displeased, and very graciously replied to the low bows which the

sailors made him. On returning to the cabin, they were all entertained

as usual with sweet wine, cherry brandy, and pipes. The old man filled

pipes for us, and as soon as this part of the ceremonial had been gone

through, a formal request was made for permission to land the Alceste's

casks and stores, in order to stop the leak and make other repairs. This

produced a long discussion amongst the chiefs, in which the old man

joined but little; he spoke, however, now and then, and whatever he

said, appeared to be to the purpose. Whenever the chiefs spoke, they

rose and addressed themselves to him in a most respectful manner. At

length, having agreed about an answer, they communicated to Captain

Maxwell that there was no good place here for the purposes he wanted,

and that as our present anchorage was unsafe, they recommended our going

round to the harbour alluded to on a former occasion. At this place,

which they call Winching or Oonching, he said we might put on shore

whatever we chose. On our asking if in Winching the water was deep

enough to admit a large ship, a long discussion arose, during which they

appeared to be considering the merits of the harbour. They seemed

apprehensive of giving it too high a character, and that on our reaching

it we should be disappointed. The old man at length suggested sending

the "little ship" to see whether it would answer. To this Captain

Maxwell agreed, only requesting that a person might accompany us, in

order to save time in the search. Simple as this appears, they took a

long time to consider it, and ended by saying that no reply could be

given till the next day.

While the subject of this harbour was under discussion, the old man drew

on a sheet of paper, a chart of the island, and pointed out the place

where the harbour lay. It proved afterwards, when we had surveyed the

island, that this sketch possessed considerable accuracy, as the

situation of the harbour of which they spoke corresponds exactly with

that of Port Melville, discovered in the Lyra. It is much to be

regretted that this curious sketch is lost.

The Chief now walked about the cabin, examined the globes, books, and

pictures, with great attention. The wainscot struck him particularly, as

well as the machinery and finish of the windows and sliding shutters.

Captain Maxwell tried to make him comprehend our track on the globe. He

had felt it becoming to preserve some state while business was going on,

but he now became quite chatty and familiar. He went all over the ship,

accompanied by the other chiefs and his own personal suite, consisting

of a pipe bearer, a man who carried his large camp chair, another with a

cover of red cloth for the chair, and a man who carried a round Japan

box for the hatchee-matchee. Two others took it in turn to fan him, and

to hold his arm by the elbow and wrist whenever he walked about;

probably as a piece of state, for the ship had very little motion: these

fanners were very expert at their business, for not content with cooling

his face and neck, they lifted up his large sleeves and fanned his arms.

On returning to the cabin, he saw Mr. Clifford using gloves, and begged

leave to try them on; with the right one he succeeded very well, but the

nails of his left hand being about an inch long, he found it not so easy

a matter: he seemed to think them the oddest things he had met with, and

laughing much, held them up repeatedly to the other chiefs.

The old man brought a present for Captain Maxwell, and sent another to

the Lyra, consisting of a hog, a kid, two bags of potatoes, a basket of

charcoal, thirty bundles of eggs (five in each), a bundle of vermicelli,

and a jar of an ardent spirit called samchew. All the chiefs, who were

in their best attire, were severally accompanied by a man carrying a box

for the hatchee-matchee; their dresses were of various colours, and

their sandals and stockings all alike. On rising to go away, the old man

bowed to me, and said that he meant to visit my ship; but this being

evidently complimentary, I begged him not to take so much trouble: he,

in return, expressed himself obliged to me for being satisfied with the

politeness intended. The Embassador's barge was manned to take him on

shore, but as soon as he saw what was intended, he drew back, and

declared that he could not land in any boat but his own. As it was

supposed that his modesty prevented his accepting this offer, he was

urged to overcome his scruples, and land in the manner proposed; he

still, however, declined the honour, but at last went down the ladder,

and having stepped into the barge, made a bow to Captain Maxwell, as if

in acknowledgment of the attention, but immediately afterwards went into

his own boat and pushed off, under a salute of three guns from each

ship.

Our intention of returning this visit the next day was not mentioned

during the discussions in the cabin, from the certainty of its being

combated, and perhaps overruled: but when the last of the chiefs was

getting into the boat, the interpreter was desired to tell him, in a

careless way, as a matter of course, that next morning this visit would

be returned on shore. As had been foreseen, this did not receive their

approbation; the interpreter went into the boat, where every persuasion

was used to convince him of the impropriety of our intention: they could

not succeed, however, in making him yield this point, and at length went

away. This interpreter is called "John" by all parties, and though

merely an under servant of the factory at Canton, he is a very shrewd

fellow. His English is certainly not the best, and probably the Chinese

he speaks is the base provincial language of Canton; so that

misunderstandings are no doubt often caused by his erroneous

interpretation.

John's report after the boat had put off, and from which we gather that

we shall be expected, was as follows: "They ax me, 'what for my Ta-yin

come sho?' I say, 'to make chin-chin[7] they Ta-yin;' they tell me, 'You

Ta-yin too much great mandarine, no can come sho;' I say, 'What for my

Ta-yin no come sho? He great man; he[8] Ta-wang-tee too much great man;

he let you Ta-yin come board ship, and you no let him come sho,

chin-chin you Ta-yin; what for this?' Then they speak long time

together; by and by ax me, 'how many people bring sho you Ta-yin?' So I

shake my head, I no like give answer long time, (they always take long

time answer me). When they ax me again, I say, 'Ta-yin bring five people

mo besides me.' They say, 'too much men come;' I say, 'No, no too much.'

They ax, 'What time come?' I give no answer."

23d September.--As we had not contemplated such adventures as these, we

had made no preparations for them; and now that it was necessary to make

some return to the chief whom we were going to visit, we found great

difficulty in preparing a suitable present. Captain Maxwell took with

him several dozens of wine, some books, glasses, various trinkets, and a

large piece of blue broad cloth. I took half the quantity of Captain

Maxwell's other presents, and a table cloth in place of the broad cloth.

Smaller presents were also made up for each of the chiefs. At one

o'clock we set out in the barge, with a large union jack flying, and as

it blew fresh, we soon reached the harbour. As we rowed past the shore,

the people were seen running along all the roads leading to the town, so

that by the time we reached the harbour, the crowd on both sides was

immense: the trees, walls, and house tops, and in short every spot from

which we could be seen, was literally covered with people, forming a

sight as striking and animated as can well be conceived. As we entered

the harbour several of the chiefs were observed to come down to a point,

and wave for us to go round the end of a pier or mole, forming the inner

harbour, where there was a good landing-place.

The chiefs helped us out, and then led us along, Ookooma taking Captain

Maxwell's hand, Shayoon mine, and Jeema Mr. Clifford's; the others,

according to their rank, conducted Mr. M'Leod of the Alceste, Mr.

Maxwell, and another midshipman, Mr. Browne. They held our hands nearly

as high as the shoulder, while a lane was formed for us through the

crowd of people, who were perfectly silent. The children were placed in

front, and the next rank sat down, so that those behind could see us in

passing. At about a hundred and fifty yards from the landing-place, we

came to the gate of a temple, where we were met by the Chief, who stood

just on the outside of the threshold, on a small raised pavement: he

took Ookooma's place, and conducted Captain Maxwell up a few steps into

the temple, which was partly open on two sides, with deep verandahs,

which made the interior shady and cool. A large table, finely japanned,

was spread, and two ornamented chairs were placed for us. The Chief

seated himself at one end of the table, and placed Captain Maxwell on

his left.

He expressed himself much gratified and honoured by the visit, asked our

ages, and if we were married. He was greatly pleased with Captain

Maxwell's account of his family, which nearly corresponded with his own.

He guessed Mr. Maxwell's age to be twenty-seven, and was with difficulty

persuaded to believe that a person six feet high could be only sixteen.

The same mistake was made by all the natives, who invariably judged of

the age of our young men by their height alone. An entertainment was now

served, beginning with a light kind of wine, called sackee, which was

handed round in very diminutive cups, filled by Issacha, from a small

high pot in which the sackee was kept hot. They insisted on our emptying

the cup every time, shewing us a fair example themselves. During the

whole feast the sackee never left the table, being considered apropos to

all the strange dishes which we partook of. The first of these consisted

of hard boiled eggs, cut into slices, the outside of the white being

coloured red. A pair of chopsticks[9] was now given to each person, and

these were not changed during the feast. Next came fish fried in batter,

which we found an excellent dish; then sliced smoked pork, next pig's

liver sliced. After this, tea was handed round in cups of a moderate

size; the tea was quite new, resembling, as was observed, an infusion of

hay. Pipes and tobacco served to fill up the short intervals between the

courses. A man attended behind each of our chairs, whose sole business

it was to fill and light the pipes. The next dish was the strangest of

any, and disgusted most of the party; it consisted of a mass of coarse,

soft, black sugar, wrapped up in unbaked dough, powdered over with rice

flour, dyed yellow. After this we had dishes of round cakes, like

gingerbread nuts; then cakes made in the form of wreaths, and in a

variety of other shapes. There was something like cheese given us after

the cakes, but we cannot form a probable conjecture of what it was made.

Most of the dishes were so good that we soon made a hearty dinner, but

the attendants still brought in more, till the Chief seeing that we did

not eat, recommended the sackee to us. The old gentleman's eyes at

length began to glisten, and observing that we felt it hot, he requested

us to uncover, shewing the example himself. He seized the doctor's

cocked hat and put it on, while the doctor did the same with his

hatchee-matchee. The oddity of the Chief's appearance produced by this

change overcame the gravity of the attendants, and the mirth became

general; nor was the joke relished by any body more than the Chief's two

sons, who stood by his chair during all the entertainment: they were

pretty little boys, with gaudy dresses, and their hair dressed in high

shewy top-knots.

[Illustration: LOO-CHOO CHIEF and his TWO SONS.]

During the early part of the feast, our presents were brought in on

trays, and laid at the feet of the Chief: the old man rose and saw them

arranged, he then made a graceful bow, and acknowledged his

satisfaction, observing that we had sent him too much, and had done him

more honour than he was entitled to, and that he could not think of

accepting the whole. This we considered matter of form, and in reply

lamented our inability to make suitable presents; upon which he sat

down and said no more. The other chiefs ran about shewing the list of

their presents to their friends among the crowd.

The room in which this entertainment was given was open at first on two

sides only, but afterwards the partitions on the other two sides were

taken down, being contrived to slide in grooves; thus the rooms are

enlarged or diminished at pleasure. When the partition behind us was

removed, several strange looking figures made their appearance, who we

found were Bodezes or priests. Their heads and faces were shaved, their

feet bare, and their dress different from that worn by the rest of the

people, being somewhat shorter, and much less free and flowing, without

any belt round the waist, the robe being merely tightened a little by a

drawing string tied at the side; over the shoulders hangs an embroidered

band or belt, like that used by drummers: the colour of their dress is

not uniform, some wearing black, others yellow, and some deep purple.

They have a timorous, patient, subdued sort of look, with a languid

smile, and ghastly expression of countenance. They are low in stature,

and generally look unhealthy; they all stoop more or less, and their

manners are without grace, so that a more contemptible class of people

cannot easily be imagined. Along with the Bodezes were several boys,

whom we took to be their children from the resemblance they bore to

them; but this mistake must have arisen from these boys being dressed

like the priests, for the Bodezes are strictly confined to a life of

celibacy. From the circumstance of our being in a temple, as well as

from our general habits of respect to persons filling sacred stations,

we felt at first disposed to treat these Bodezes with attention, but

this was looked upon as ridiculous by the chiefs, who seeing us bowing

to them, begged we would take no further notice of them. Instead of

being the class most respected, they are considered the lowest, and if

not held in contempt, are at least neglected by all other ranks.

During all the time we were at table, the crowd pressed round the

verandahs, and perched themselves upon the walls and house-tops in the

vicinity, or wherever they could get a peep at us. The satisfaction here

was mutual, as we were anxious to make the most of the opportunity, not

knowing if we should ever be allowed to land again. After sitting two

hours we rose, and were escorted to the boats in the same order as when

we landed. An attempt had been made during the feast, when the whole

party were in good humour, to prevail upon the old gentleman to sanction

our taking a walk into the town; but the bare mention of such a thing

sobered the whole party in an instant, and the subject was accordingly

dropped. The sailors, who had been kept in the boats for fear of their

doing mischief, had not been neglected by the Chief, who had sent them

part of the feast, nor did it seem that they had any objection to the

sackee. We looked anxiously on the right and left as we passed through

the crowd, in hopes of seeing some of the women, but in this expectation

we were disappointed. At a considerable distance indeed, on the opposite

side of the harbour, we saw a group of women, several of whom came down

to the causeway to obtain a better view of the boats as they passed. Six

or eight young girls ran to the pier head, round some rocks near the

end; they reached this spot just as we rowed past, but looked quite

frightened at finding themselves so near us, and immediately drew back

out of our sight. We fancied that we could discover a good deal of

beauty in some of their faces, and that their figures were handsome; but

as we had not seen a fair lady's face for nearly half a year before, our

judgment in this case is not perhaps to be depended on. Ookooma and his

associates put off to accompany us in one of their own boats, but as it

blew hard, they came no farther than the pier head: Jeeroo, however, was

sent along with us, to see that there were no stray sheep.

What is to follow is uncertain, but it is clear that we have made little

progress of late, while fresh obstacles have been hourly rising against

our landing; in the meantime, the Loo-chooans shew no little sagacity

and kindness of disposition in supplying us liberally with all kinds of

stock.

24th of September.--Last night and to-day it has blown a hard gale of

wind, beginning at north north-east, and shifting to north-west, but the

reefs and the land break its force, and enable us to ride in perfect

security: in all probability it blew severely in the open sea. The

barometer fell from 29.62, to 29.50, yesterday; in the evening it had

reached 29.48, and this morning stood at 29.40. About four in the

morning it began to rise rapidly, and the severity of the gale did not

come on till it had risen a good deal. The thermometer both in the day

and night stands at 82º, with very little variation, but the sky being

constantly clouded, no observations could be made.

25th of September.--Jeeroo came on board this morning with a present of

vegetables and fruit, and afterwards went on board the Alceste to join

Ookooma and Jeema. They had preceded him with a present from the Chief,

by whose desire they made a number of kind inquiries, and repeatedly

expressed, in his name, surprise and satisfaction at our having been

able to ride out the gale. They also apologized for not visiting us

yesterday, which the gale had rendered impossible. It was represented in

the conference to-day, that our limbs were getting quite stiff for want

of exercise, and that it became absolutely necessary for us to land, on

account of our health: they debated amongst themselves for some time,

and then said that a final answer would be given to-morrow. They have

quite forgotten their promise to send a pilot for the harbour to the

northward: they wish also that we should forget it, since they change

the subject whenever it is spoken of, and affect total ignorance of our

meaning. The government probably think it best to keep us where we are,

and therefore discourage our investigating the island any further.

Jeeroo, who begins to get quite familiar with us all, is a laughing

good-humoured man, about thirty: he shakes every one cordially by the

hand when he comes on board, and engages in all our amusements with

great cheerfulness. He is very useful to us, because the anxiety he has

to learn English makes him communicate freely the knowledge of his own

language: thus there is little difficulty in fixing him over a glass of

Constantia, upon which occasions he contributes largely to Mr.

Clifford's vocabulary. Some of our words the Loo-chooans cannot

pronounce; the letter _l_ preceded by _c_ appears the most difficult;

they call Clifford "Criffar," and even this requires many efforts: not

one of the natives has yet been able to make any thing of child; they

call it shoidah, choiah, and chyad.

26th of September.--No boats have been near us to-day, and we might

readily land if we chose it; but Captain Maxwell is resolved not to do

so till he gets the consent of the natives.

27th of September.--As we were still prevented from going on shore, we

amused ourselves by examining a reef which forms the north side of the

anchorage. We found a field of coral about half a mile square, dry at

low water, with the surf breaking very high on the outer edge, which

lies exposed to the waves from the north. The surface of the rock is

every where worn into small holes, which being left full of water as the

tide goes out, are occupied by a number of beautiful blue fish. The

coral is exceedingly hard, and though at many places it sticks up in

sharp points, it requires a hammer of considerable weight to break it,

and emits sparks like flint when struck; in a short time it entirely

defaces the hammer. This extent of level space has suggested the idea of

measuring a base on it in order to survey the anchorage, since there

appears so little chance of our being allowed to land for this purpose

on the beach.

While we were deliberating on this matter, we had a striking proof of

the inconvenience to which we were likely to be exposed during this

survey, by the tide rising and fairly washing us off. Notwithstanding

this, we determined to commence next morning, and returned to make

preparations, in high spirits at the prospect of an occupation, if not

on terra firma, at least out of the ship, within whose sides we had been

confined so long. On returning, we found that Captain Maxwell had

arranged a party to visit the small island and reef which we were so

close to on the 14th instant; the survey was therefore postponed.

Jeeroo sent us off some fresh fish to-day; some were red, and one or two

blue: he came himself afterwards, and was happy to find us much

gratified by his present. A formal message was sent to-day to the chiefs

in attendance, stating that both ships were in want of fresh water, and

that the boats must go on shore with casks to bring some off. In a short

time after this message had been delivered, a number of canoes came

alongside with large tubs of water; a strong proof of their alertness in

getting rid of all our excuses for landing, and at the same time, it

must be owned, of their readiness to supply our wants. An elderly

gentleman, not a chief, visited us to-day, accompanied by his secretary.

His appearance and manners being greatly in his favour, we paid him all

the attention in our power. His wish was to be permitted to go all over

the ship at his leisure; and in this way he examined every thing on

board with far more attention than any body had done before him. His

secretary, who was equally inquisitive, accompanied him in order to take

notes. He employed himself for about six hours in examining the upper

deck, and never quitted any thing till he understood its use. While he

was thus occupied, he was attended by the sailors, who were pleased with

his reverend appearance, and very readily assisted the old man in his

enquiries.

It was interesting to observe, indeed, how early the gentle and engaging

manners of all classes here won upon the sailors, no less than upon the

officers. The natives from the first were treated with entire

confidence; no watch was ever kept over them, nor were they excluded

from any part of the ships; and not only was nothing stolen, but when

any thing was lost, nobody even suspected for an instant, that it had

been taken by them.

The old man next came down to the cabin, where he remained a long time

examining the books and furniture, and occasionally engaging in

conversation with Mr. Clifford, for whose Vocabulary he supplied many

new words, and corrected others which had been written down erroneously.

He would not accept any thing valuable, but was grateful for samples of

rope, canvas, and cloth. This old gentleman renewed his examination of

the brig next day; nor was it till the third day that he completed his

survey.

28th of September.--At sunrise we set out for Reef Island, which lies

about six miles from the anchorage: we reached it in about an hour, but

as it was low water, the coral was left almost bare for a considerable

way out, and our large boat could not get near the beach. In this

dilemma we took possession of a canoe which was at anchor, and in

several trips all the party landed. Near a hut we saw about a dozen

people who stood looking at us till we landed, and then ran away,

leaving their tobacco-pipes, pouches, and various other things on the

ground about the hut, in which we found a pot of boiled sweet potatoes

and several jars of water. Having, in vain, tried to allay the

apprehensions of the natives by waving to them, to induce them to

approach us, we sat down to breakfast; which we had hardly done, when

two of them, an old man and a boy, came to the door of our tent and

prostrated themselves before us, apparently in great alarm, for they

answered incoherently, "ooa" (yes) to every question we asked them. At

last we raised the old man on his knees, but he would not quit this

posture till we gave him a glass of rum, which re-assured him a little,

and shortly afterwards he consented to stand on his legs. Having thus

gradually gained confidence, he made signs that we had taken his canoe:

upon which an order was given to the coxswain to restore it. He guessed

immediately what was said, and in the joy of his heart was proceeding to

prostrate himself again, but was stopped by our holding out buttons and

some pieces of meat and bread to him, which he received in both hands,

and touching his head each time with the presents, made three low

obeisances and retired.

On rising from breakfast we found, near the tent, about a dozen natives,

who, in most respects, resembled our friends at Napakiang, but were not

so neatly dressed; and their hair, instead of being formed into a knot,

was allowed to fly loose. During the morning the party amused themselves

in various ways. Some took their guns and went in search of curlews and

sea-snipes: others set out to explore the reefs; and two or three

remained near the tent, for the purpose of making observations on the

sun at noon; but as it became cloudy about this time, the latter party

failed in their object. The rest were more successful; the sportsmen

having shot some game for dinner; and the other party having found all

things favourable for inspecting the reef.

The examination of a coral reef during the different stages of one

tide, is particularly interesting. When the tide has left it for some

time it becomes dry, and appears to be a compact rock, exceedingly hard

and ragged; but as the tide rises, and the waves begin to wash over it,

the coral worms protrude themselves from holes which were before

invisible. These animals are of a great variety of shapes and sizes, and

in such prodigious numbers, that, in a short time, the whole surface of

the rock appears to be alive and in motion. The most common worm is in

the form of a star, with arms from four to six inches long, which are

moved about with a rapid motion in all directions, probably to catch

food. Others are so sluggish, that they may be mistaken for pieces of

the rock, and are generally of a dark colour, and from four to five

inches long, and two or three round. When the coral is broken, about

high water mark, it is a solid hard stone, but if any part of it be

detached at a spot which the tide reaches every day, it is found to be

full of worms of different lengths and colours, some being as fine as a

thread and several feet long, of a bright yellow, and sometimes of a

blue colour: others resemble snails, and some are not unlike lobsters in

shape, but soft, and not above two inches long[10].

The growth of coral appears to cease when the worm is no longer exposed

to the washing of the sea. Thus, a reef rises in the form of a

cauliflower, till its top has gained the level of the highest tides,

above which the worm has no power to advance, and the reef of course no

longer extends itself upwards. The other parts, in succession, reach the

surface, and there stop, forming in time a level field with steep sides

all round. The reef, however, continually increases, and being prevented

from going higher, extends itself laterally in all directions. But this

growth being as rapid at the upper edge as it is lower down, the

steepness of the face of the reef is still preserved. These are the

circumstances which render coral reefs so dangerous in navigation; for,

in the first place, they are seldom seen above the water; and, in the

next, their sides are so steep, that a ship's bows may strike against

the rock before any change of soundings has given warning of the danger.

The island at high water is formed into three parts, which at low water

are joined by reefs; the whole being about two and a half or three miles

from east to west, and tolerably clear of rocks on the south side; but

on the north it is guarded by a semicircle of coral extending upwards of

a mile from the shore. On the centre island is only one hut, which, as

there was reason to believe it to be the actual abode of the

inhabitants, it may be allowable to describe. The walls were sunk under

ground, so that only the roof appeared from without, the inside was

fifteen feet by six: the walls of neatly squared stones, being two feet

high, and the roof in the middle about six or seven high, formed of a

ridge pole supported in the centre by a forked stick; the rafters of

rough branches were covered with reeds, and thatched over with the leaf

of the wild pine, which grows on all the coral islands. The fire-place

was at one end on a raised part of the floor, and the other end appeared

to be the sleeping place. It was conjectured, that this wretched place

could only be meant as a temporary residence of fishermen, whose nets we

saw lying about; but the number of water jars and cooking utensils which

we found in and about it, gave it the appearance of a fixed habitation.

It was almost dark when we quitted the island, and the tide carrying us

out of our proper course, we missed the ships and grounded on the reefs

near the town; but as the tide was flowing, we easily got off, and by

coasting along, soon gained the anchorage.

Sunday, 29th of September.--This day is memorable, on account of its

being the first on which we were permitted to land.

Yesterday, when we were absent at Reef Island, the chiefs had come on

board to say that we might land, but that our walk must be confined to

the beach, and that we were neither to enter the town, nor to go into

the country. At one o'clock several of the chiefs came on board and

accompanied us to the beach, where we landed amidst an immense crowd,

and were handed along by Ookooma and the rest, who, in their desire to

be civil, held us by the arms. The day, however, being excessively hot,

and the sand deep, we found this troublesome, and begged leave to walk

alone, to which they reluctantly consented, and we proceeded along the

beach for a quarter of a mile.

Beginning to get tired of our walk, we stopped and expressed some

surprise at such a reception, and told them how disagreeable it was to

us to be in the sun at such an hour. But our remonstrances did not

produce much effect, for, on our objecting particularly to the heat,

they shewed us to a sort of cave in a rock on the beach, where they put

down a mat and wished us to drink tea in the shade, since we disliked

the sun. This could not be submitted to, however, and we told them that

our object in landing was not to sit down on the beach to drink tea, but

to walk about under the trees in order to recover our health, impaired

by a long stay on board ship. They tried all their eloquence to persuade

us that our walk, thus limited, was perfectly pleasant; till at length

Captain Maxwell gave them to understand, that he wished to go to the top

of the hills under the trees; but that, as he did not mean to advance a

single step beyond what was approved of, he would return instantly to

the ship if they persisted in confining him to the beach. A consultation

was held upon this, during which, frequent reference was made to several

elderly men, whose opinions appeared to have great weight. They did not

wear the dress of chiefs, but, from all that passed, we suspected them

to be persons about court, who had been sent to assist the councils of

the local commission, without superseding its authority. They at last

agreed to our going to the top of the hill, taking the precaution before

we set out, of sending on a couple of runners, probably to give warning

to the women who might be in that direction. About half way up the road,

which winds along a steep face, there is a neatly-built well, supplied

by a stream which runs along a carved water-course, and near it were

three or four rudely carved stones about a foot long and four inches

across, with slow matches and a small quantity of rice laid upon each.

Mr. Clifford distinctly made out that this was meant as a religious

offering, but its precise object could not be discovered, though it was

conjectured that the guardian deity of the well might have some title to

the honour. The side of the hill is cut into horizontal irregular

terraces, which are cultivated with apparent care, and irrigated by

means of ditches leading from the well. On gaining the brow of the hill

which overlooks the anchorage, the chiefs stopped, but as we were within

a few yards of the summit, where we saw a shady grove, we begged them to

proceed, to which, after a short deliberation, they consented. By

gaining this eminence, we commanded a view of an extensive valley more

beautiful than any thing we had ever seen; and on the side opposite to

us we saw the large building spoken of before, generally suspected to be

the King's palace: our questions, however, on this subject were always

answered in so evasive a manner, and with such apparent distress, that

we seldom made any allusion either to it or to the King.

Here we remained under the trees for an hour, drinking tea and smoking

pipes in company with all the chiefs, besides four or five of the old

men mentioned before. We amused them by lighting their pipes with a

burning glass; but one old gentleman, who suspected some trick, and did

not join in the surprise shewn by the rest, held out his hand that it

might be exposed to the focus; and he was soon undeceived, to the great

amusement of the circle. The magnifying power of the glass engaged the

attention of them all, but they were differently affected by it: a

start and an exclamation of pleased surprise was the most usual effect;

some laughed immoderately at every experiment, while others were made

very grave by it, who had not been particularly serious before.

Advantage was taken of the moment when their admiration of the glass was

at the highest, to present it to Jeeroo, whose good-will it was thought

expedient to conciliate: he had not expected this, and felt obliged to

us for so public a mark of our esteem.

A man on horseback happening to ride by, it was gravely suggested to the

chiefs that nothing would so materially contribute to the establishment

of our health as this species of exercise; but they insisted upon

treating our request as a mere joke. On the way back an attempt was made

to vary the walk by turning to the left on reaching the brow of the

hill, and so walking along the edge of the cliff to another road; the

chiefs observed upon this that we should infallibly tumble down and kill

ourselves; affecting, notwithstanding the absurdity of any such

apprehensions, to be greatly distressed at our danger: so we turned

back, after having had a short interview with an old man seated in a

shed on the edge of the precipice. His white beard, which covered his

breast, suited well with his sedate and contemplative air, and gave him

much the aspect of a hermit. Our appearance did not in the least

discompose him, nor did he take any notice of us till desired to do so

by Ookooma; he then bowed slightly, but immediately resumed his fixed

look, as if he had been quite alone.

As we drew near to the place where we had landed, our companions

surprised us by an invitation to a feast, prepared, they said, on our

account in a temple close to the shore. Here they gave us painted eggs,

smoked salt pork, and various preparations of eggs and fish, with sweet

cakes in numberless forms, besides tea, pipes, and sackee, a light kind

of wine made hot. Nothing could be more cheerful than they all were

to-day: they placed us on the floor at the upper end of the room, and,

for some time, they would not allow us to move; but Mr. Clifford, who,

from the progress he has made in their language, has become a great

favourite, was invited to join a merry party in the verandah, to which

they brought flowers, fruits, and every thing they could think of, in

order to learn their English names, and give in return those of

Loo-choo.

On reaching the boats, Jeeroo and two of his friends seemed disposed to

go on board; they were accordingly invited to do so, which made him so

happy, that he took a rudely-carved ivory ornament, in the shape of a

monkey, from his tobacco-pouch, and gave it to me. Dinner was on table

when they came on board, but there was time before taking my friends

below, to intimate to the servants, that these gentlemen were going to

dine with me, so that when we reached the cabin, three plates were laid

in addition. They had probably not expected to find dinner ready for

them on board, for they expressed surprise at these preparations having

been made, and would not sit down for some time. When the covers were

removed, they became silent, and looked on either hand for directions

how to proceed. On being helped to soup, they did not stir till they saw

us take spoons, in the management of which they shewed but little

awkwardness. The knife and fork gave them more trouble, but they set

seriously about acquiring a knowledge of their use, and, in a short

time, found no difficulty.

Their grave propriety on this occasion is the more worthy of remark,

from its standing in some measure opposed to our own behaviour under

similar circumstances: for instance, when we first tried to eat with

their chopsticks: on that occasion there was a sort of giggling

embarrassment shewn by some of us, a contempt as it were of ourselves,

for condescending to employ an effort to acquire the use of a thing

apparently so unimportant. Their diminutive cups and odd dishes, too,

sometimes excited mirth amongst us. Our Loo-choo friends, however, never

committed themselves in this way; a difference of manners, which may

arise from their looking upon us as their superiors, and vice versa; but

even admitting this, which we were sufficiently disposed to do, it is

certainly no excuse for us.

On this occasion Jeeroo and his friends had evidently made up their

minds to find every thing quite new, for all three made a slight

involuntary exclamation when one of the covers was lifted up, and shewed

a dish of their own sweet potatoes. They ate of every thing, using a

great deal of salt, with the fineness and whiteness of which they were

much pleased. A tart, however, being put on the table, they all objected

at first to touching it; they would not say why: they were at length

prevailed upon to taste it, which they had no sooner done, than they

exclaimed that it was "masa! masa!" (good! good!) It was made of Scotch

marmalade, and Jeeroo, in recommending it to his friends, told them it

was "injassa, amasa," (bitter, sweet), a union which they appeared not

to have met with before. They drank wine with us, but said they feared

it would make them tipsy; upon which we shewed them our mode of mixing

it with water, which was evidently new to them, for they relished it so

much in this form, that they were in a fair way of running unconsciously

into the very excess which they dreaded. As soon as the cloth was

removed, they rose, and went to walk about the ship: on our shewing a

wish to accompany them, they intreated us to keep our seats.

During dinner, though it was the first they had ever seen in the

European style, these people not only betrayed no awkwardness, but

adopted our customs, such as drinking wine with each other, so readily,

that we were frequently at a loss to determine whether they had but just

learned these customs, or whether their own usages in these cases were

similar to ours. As they pushed off in their boat they were asked to

sing, which they did at once, and by their manner we suspected that the

song had some allusion to us, but we could not make out the words.

30th of September.--During the whole of this morning we were engaged in

the survey, accompanied by several of the midshipmen of both ships. We

measured a base, and continued taking angles till the tide rose and

drove us off.

1st of October.--As a free intercourse was now established with the

natives at this place, and little doubt remained of our being able to

gain their permission in a day or two for landing the Alceste's stores,

it became an object to ascertain, without further delay, whether or not

this anchorage was better than the harbour described by the natives as

being a few miles only to the northward. While any apprehensions existed

of our not being able to land here, it was not thought prudent to send

the Lyra to look for that harbour, lest the chiefs should become still

more suspicious of our intentions. At this moment, however, there was

reason to believe that the chiefs wished the Alceste to remain where she

was, and it was expected that any show of moving to another harbour

would stimulate their exertions to render our present situation

agreeable.

The Lyra was accordingly ordered to weigh this morning at daylight, for

the purpose of examining the coast for ten or twelve leagues to the

northward. We went out by a narrow passage through the reefs, and in the

course of the morning beat up to Sugar Loaf Island. We did not land upon

it, but passed near enough to see that it is richly cultivated on the

lower parts, and that all the houses are collected into villages, shaded

as usual by large trees round the bottom, and for one-third of the way

up the sides of the peak. As this was our furthest point in the present

survey, we tacked on reaching the Sugar Loaf, and coasted round the

shores of a large square bay on the west side of the great island. The

wind shifted gradually as we sailed along, blowing directly off the

shore at every place, by which means we were enabled to complete the

circuit of the bay before dark, after which we anchored in sixty-five

fathoms water. Next morning we resumed our examination of the coast,

but as the weather was fine, we hoisted out a boat and pulled close

along the shore, while the brig kept her course at the distance of

several miles. In this manner we traced the whole shore, till we came

close to Napakiang, without seeing any port. We tried to land at several

places, but were every where kept off by coral reefs stretching along

the coast, at the distance of two or three hundred yards, and forming,

to strangers at least, an impenetrable barrier. The canoes of the

natives paddled away from us, and passed through the surf by passages

which we were afraid to approach. We returned to the brig about two

o'clock, and at three anchored in our former place at Napakiang.

The departure of the Lyra had excited a great sensation on shore; the

chiefs came off to inquire of Captain Maxwell where the "honee gua"

(little ship) was; but he did not choose to satisfy them, except by

saying that they had trifled with him so long, and refused to let him

land his casks and stores with such obstinacy, that he must endeavour to

find some more favourable place at which to refit his ship. The effect

was exactly what he wished; they intreated him not to think of moving

from Napakiang; offered him not only large boats to put his stores in,

but said he should have store-rooms on shore for whatever he desired,

while his ship was refitting. They moreover granted him permission to

land with his officers, and to go to the top of the hill without being

guarded as formerly.

On the Lyra's anchoring, the chiefs came on board in great agitation,

desiring to know what we had discovered. As we had actually nothing to

relate, there was little difficulty in keeping our secret. They

accompanied me on board the Alceste when I went to make my report, but

Captain Maxwell, having found the advantage he had already gained by

keeping them in ignorance of his intentions, was nowise communicative.

They now offered to allow his people to land for the purpose of washing

their clothes, which they had before refused to do, and in short, were

in a mood to grant any thing, provided we were willing to remain at this

part of the island. They did not pretend that this was out of regard for

us, and it was easy to see that they apprehended more trouble in

managing us any where else than at this place. Amongst the arguments

used by them to dissuade us from going to the other end of the island,

they said it was inhabited by savages. It came out accidentally too,

that in the event of the ship's actually proceeding to other parts of

the island, the six chiefs were to accompany us: so that they were

probably influenced by considerations of personal convenience to make

every exertion to prevent our moving.

3d of October.--The Lyra's crew were allowed to go on shore to-day to

wash their clothes, and amuse themselves by running about on the side of

the hill. Two of the sailors of this party, who happened to be singing

near the well, drew a number of natives round them, who expressed great

pleasure at hearing their songs. At first the crowd consisted entirely

of the peasantry, who listened with great attention, and never

interrupted the sailors; but in about half an hour, a person of some

rank, with a number of attendants, came up, and begged them to sing

several of their songs over again: we could not find out who this person

was, but it was probably one of the chiefs, some of whom are remarkably

fond of our music.

4th of October.--The survey on the reef was completed to-day: the only

inconvenience we had experienced here, was the limited time which the

tide allowed us each day, otherwise the situation was well adapted for a

base, from its commanding a view of all parts of the anchorage. During

the progress of the principal survey, the young gentlemen sent by

Captain Maxwell, in conjunction with the midshipmen of the Lyra,

completed a survey of the reef itself. A native of a genteel appearance,

but not in the dress of a chief, visited the Lyra to-day, and gave me a

present of two pipes and two bags of sweet potatoes.

5th of October.--Captain Maxwell called for me this morning at sunrise,

on his way to the shore. The chiefs had not expected us so early, and

our only companion for some time was an old peasant, who now and then

ran on before to give notice of our approach. Two well dressed people

shortly afterwards came up, and continued with us during our walk, which

at first lay along the beach, but afterwards led into the country; some

exception was taken to this by our companions, but as no attention was

paid to them, they desisted.

After walking about a mile, we passed through a grove of young trees,

and found ourselves close to a village, which lies in the bottom of a

glen highly cultivated, the houses being almost entirely hid by trees,

of which the bamboo is the most conspicuous.

This village is surrounded by a close hedge, and every separate house

also has an inclosure: some of the houses have attached to them neat

arbours, formed of a light frame of bamboo covered with a variety of

creepers. The rice fields are divided by small banks of earth, made to

retain the water, and along the top of each bank there is a foot-path;

the whole valley having much the air of a scene in India. A number of

the villagers, accompanied by their children, came out to meet us, but

there were no women amongst them: we passed on, as they were evidently

averse to our entering the village.

On our way across the valley we were attracted by the appearance of a

cottage, so buried in foliage as to be completely hid from our view till

we were within a few paces of the door. It was surrounded by a slight

fence of rods, about an inch apart, with a line of creepers along the

top, and hanging down on both sides: a wicker gate admitted us, and we

entered the house, which we found divided into two apartments, eight

feet square, besides a small verandah at one end. The floors, which were

made of slips of bamboo, were raised about six inches from the ground,

and covered with a straw mat. The walls were five feet high, being

neatly wattled with split bamboo, above which rose a pointed thatched

roof. It was occupied by an old man, whom we appeared to have disturbed

at breakfast, for cups and tea-things were arranged on the floor; he

asked us to sit down, and gave us pipes and tea. The little apartment we

were in was as neat as any thing we had ever seen: on one side there was

a set of shelves, with cups, bowls, and cooking utensils; on the others

were hung various implements of husbandry, with hats and various

dresses, all clean and in order. Higher up was a sort of loft or garret,

formed by bamboo poles, laid horizontally from the top of the walls; on

this were placed various tools, nets, and baskets. The fire-place was in

the middle of one side, and sunk below the level. On the outside, in the

space between the house and the fence, there was a pigeon house and a

poultry yard, and close to the little verandah spoken of before, there

stood two spinning-wheels of a light and ingenious construction. All

round on the outside of the fence, the trees were high and thick; and

though the sun was above the hills, the house was completely shaded

except at the end, where a small opening admitted the rays into the

verandah. We staid some time with the old farmer, trying to express our

admiration of the simplicity and beauty of his cottage, and then went up

the opposite side of the valley.

Here we found a road like a dressed walk in a garden: following this, we

passed through a series of beautiful groves of bamboo and other trees,

till at length, after winding about a good deal, we came to a double row

of tall pine trees, interspersed with many others whose names we did not

know, so as to form a walk which must be shady at all hours of the day.

This road we knew would lead to the town, and therefore when we had

reached the highest point we turned to the right, and after a short walk

reached the grove of trees which had been made the limit to our first

walk on the 29th ultimo. At this place Captain Maxwell surprised the

natives a good deal by shooting several birds on the wing, but they

could not be prevailed upon to fire themselves, nor even to pull the

trigger when no powder was in the pan.

6th of October.--After divine service to-day on board the Alceste, a

long conference was held between Captain Maxwell and the five chiefs,

when, after a good deal of discussion, it was agreed on their part to

allow the Alceste's stores to be landed, for the purpose of getting at

the leak. Our means of interpreting on these occasions are not the best

that could be wished; but John, our Chinese, is nevertheless a keen

fellow, and very ready with answers when pressed. We generally explain

as fully as possible to John what our wishes are, and then leave him to

communicate them the best way he can. An instance of his quickness

occurred to-day, which seems worth mentioning. John had communicated to

them, by Captain Maxwell's desire, that as the leak complained of was in

the magazine, it would be necessary to land the powder: they debated a

long time upon this, and then asked John "Why the powder was not put on

board the little ship?" John, who was not aware of any good reason,

affected to be surprised at this question, which he refused to

interpret, saying that if Captain Maxwell thought such a measure right,

he would surely not have waited till they suggested it. The light in

which he had thus put the question, made them earnestly desire him not

to mention any thing about it, declaring at the same time, that they

would willingly give a place for the powder, and for any other stores

which Captain Maxwell might wish to land.

To-day for the first time they talked unreservedly of the king, whose

name even they had hitherto studiously avoided: they spoke freely of his

majesty's having sent all the stock and vegetables with which we were

daily supplied. Captain Maxwell, who of course was very desirous of

opening a communication with the court, intimated his wish to pay his

respects as soon as might be convenient. They heard this with apparent

satisfaction, and signified that his request should be made known to the

king. We are at a loss to discover what can have caused this change of

manner. We can only conjecture, that perhaps the king, on hearing so

many reports about us, may have become desirous of seeing us himself. At

all events it is clear that some alteration in the instructions to the

chiefs must have been made, otherwise they would have shewn their usual

reserve when the king's name was mentioned, and would on no account have

allowed us to talk of visiting him.

At one o'clock we went on shore to look at the place assigned by the

chiefs for the reception of the Alceste's stores. It is an oblong

inclosure, sixty yards by forty, surrounded by a wall twelve feet high,

rather well built with squared coral: the entrance is by a large gate on

the south side, from which there extends raised gravel walks, with

clipped hedges, the intermediate spaces being laid out in beds, like a

garden. The temple in which we were feasted on the day of our first

visit, occupies one corner of the inclosure; it is completely shaded by

a grove of trees, which also overhang the wall. In that part of the

garden directly opposite to the gate, at the upper end of the walk

there is a smaller temple, nearly hid by the branches of several large

banyan trees; and before it, at the distance of ten or twelve paces, a

square awkward looking building, with a raised terrace round it. The

temple first spoken of is divided by means of shifting partitions into

four apartments, and a verandah running all round, having a row of

carved wooden pillars on its outer edge to support the roof, which

extends considerably beyond it. The floor of the verandah is two feet

from the ground, the roof is sloping and covered with handsome tiles,

those forming the eaves being ornamented with flowers and various

figures in relief; there are also several out-houses, and a kitchen

communicating with them by covered passages. In one of the inner

apartments, at the upper end, there is a small recess containing a green

shrub, in a high narrow flower-pot, having a Chinese inscription on a

tablet hanging above it on the wall. On another side of the same room,

there hangs the picture of a man rescuing a bird from the paws of a cat;

the bird seems to have been just taken from a cage, which is tumbling

over, with two other birds fluttering about in the inside: it is merely

a sketch, but is executed in a spirited manner. In one of the back

apartments we find three gilt images, eighteen inches high, with a

flower in a vase before them. The roof of the temple within is ten feet

high, and all the cornices, pillars, &c. are neatly carved into flowers

and the figures of various animals. The ground immediately round it is

divided into a number of small beds, planted with different shrubs and

flowers; and on a pedestal of artificial rock, in one of the walks close

to it, is placed a clay vessel of an elegant form, full of water, with a

wooden ladle swimming on the top. On a frame near one of the out-houses,

hangs a large bell, three feet high, of an inelegant shape, resembling a

long bee-hive; the sides are two inches thick, and richly ornamented:

its tone is uncommonly fine.

It was determined to appropriate part of the large temple to the use of

the sick and their attendants; the assistant surgeon of the Alceste

taking one room, and the gunner, who was to have the whole inclosure in

his charge, another. The small temple at the upper end, being a retired

spot, was fixed upon for the Lyra's observatory; the square building in

the centre seemed well adapted for a magazine. At the gate a notice was

hung up, both in English and Loo-choo, signifying that no person was to

enter without a written pass from Captain Maxwell, or from one of the

chiefs.

7th and 8th of October.--These days have been occupied in carrying the

arrangements of Sunday into effect. It was very interesting to observe

the care which the natives took of the sick, whom they assisted all the

way from the beach to the temple; a number of people attended to support

such of them as had barely strength enough to walk. When they were

safely lodged, eggs, milk, fowls, and vegetables, were brought to them;

and whenever any of them were tempted by the beauty of the scenery to

walk out, several of the natives were ready to accompany them.

The powder was landed, and Mr. Holman, the gunner of the frigate, began

the operation of drying it on hides spread in the sun round the

magazine. The cows and other stock were also landed. One of the cows

calved that night, to the surprise of every body, and the great joy of

the natives, who took a great fancy to the little bull born amongst

them. Mr. Mayne, the master of the Alceste, took up his quarters in the

temple, in order to be near his observatory, which was in the centre of

the garden. The stores of all kinds were sent on shore from the Alceste,

which produced an apparent confusion, and the chiefs, seeing so many

valuable things lying about, began to fear that they would be taken

away; at least, it was supposed that they had such an apprehension, for

the wall of the temple was immediately fenced in by a sort of net-work

of long bamboo poles, the ends of which were fixed in the ground at the

foot of the wall on the outside, and the tops made to cross one another

four or five feet above the wall. This contrivance, instead of rendering

the place more secure, made it more accessible; but as our opinion was

not asked, and we had no apprehensions of theft, we let them proceed in

their own way.

Mrs. Loy, wife of the boatswain of the Alceste, was the only female in

our squadron, and as such excited no small interest at this place. She

was a perfectly well behaved person, and sufficiently neat in her dress,

but without great pretensions to good looks. The natives, who from the

first paid her much attention, shewed at all times their desire of

granting her every indulgence. They even went so far as to say she might

go into the city; but, upon consulting with her husband, who was

apprehensive of some accident, she declined it. When this circumstance

became known to us, we easily convinced the boatswain that no mischief

could possibly arise from trusting his wife amongst such kind people;

but Mrs. Loy could not be persuaded of this; and thus was lost the only

opportunity of seeing the town which occurred during all our stay.

Two of the natives have been studying English with great assiduity, and

with considerable success. One is called Madera, the other Anya. They

carry note books in imitation of Mr. Clifford, in which they record in

their own characters every word they learn. They are both keen fellows,

and are always amongst the strangers. From the respect occasionally paid

to them, it is suspected that their rank is higher than they give out,

and that their object in pretending to be people of ordinary rank, is to

obtain a more free intercourse with all classes on board the ships.

Madera, by his liveliness and his propriety of manners, has made himself

a great favourite; he adopts our customs with a sort of intuitive

readiness, sits down to table, uses a knife and fork, converses, and

walks with us, in short, does every thing that we do, quite as a matter

of course, without any apparent effort or study. He is further

recommended to us by the free way in which he communicates every thing

relating to his country; so that as he advances in English, and we in

Loo-choo, he may be the means of giving us much information. As an

instance of his progress in English, it may be mentioned, that one day

he came on board the Lyra, and said, "The Ta-yin speak me, 'you go ship,

John come shore;'" by which we understood that Captain Maxwell had sent

him on board the brig for the interpreter. This was about three weeks

after our arrival.

[Illustration: PRIEST and GENTLEMAN of LOO-CHOO.]

Most of the natives have acquired a little English, so that Mr. Clifford

has now no difficulty in finding people willing to instruct him, and to

take pains in correcting his pronunciation. One of his teachers, called

Yackabee Oomeejeero, will not permit him to write down a single word

till he has acquired the exact Loo-choo sound: but he is like the rest

in shewing an invincible objection to giving any information about the

women. He admits that he is married, and gives the names of his sons:

but when his wife or daughters are alluded to, he becomes uneasy, and

changes the subject. On Mr. Clifford's gravely telling him that he

believed there were no women on the island, he was thrown off his guard,

and answered hastily, that he had both a wife and daughter, but

instantly checking himself, turned the conversation another way. On the

picture of an English lady being shewn to him, he commended it highly,

saying, at the same time, "Doochoo innago whooco oorung" (Loo-choo

women are not handsome.) This old gentleman is a better teacher than

scholar; he calls the letter L "airoo;" veal, "bairoo;" flail,

"frayroo;" in which instances of mispronunciation, we may recognize a

difficulty not uncommon amongst English children.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 6: This circumstance is by no means common, and therefore

cannot be depended on. In fine weather these reefs give no warning

whatever, and a ship on approaching them ought invariably to have a boat

a-head.]

[Footnote 7: Chin-chin in the corrupt dialect of Canton, means the

ceremony of salutation, which consists in the action of holding up the

closed hands, pressed together before the face, and bowing at the same

time.]

[Footnote 8: Ta-whang-tee is Chinese for Emperor, King.]

[Footnote 9: Chopsticks are two pieces of ivory or wood, about a foot in

length, of the thickness of a quill; they serve in China instead of a

knife and fork, and are held in the right hand. Until the difficult art

of holding them is attained, they are perfectly useless. The Chief at

this feast, seeing that we made little progress, ordered sharp pointed

sticks to be brought, which he good humouredly recommended our using

instead of the chopsticks.]

[Footnote 10: A large collection, which was at this time made of these

Zoophites, was unfortunately lost in the Alceste.]