N^o II.
The following extract, from Dr. Wahlenberg's "Observations made with a
view to determine the height of the Lapland Alps," p. 45, &c., was
translated from the Swedish by the late Mr. Dryander, who kindly
communicated it to the editor, expressing a wish that it might accompany
the present publication. To fulfil this desire is now become a duty. It
is with a melancholy satisfaction I here subjoin the last communication
I ever received from this excellent and learned pupil of Linnæus, to the
work of his master. Many remarks from him have assisted me in the course
of this undertaking, and if I could have submitted the whole to his
inspection before it went to press, many inaccuracies, which a
foreigner could scarcely avoid, might have been corrected by a native
Swede, a man too so supremely accurate, and so conversant with every
part of the subject. But this the various and unremitting employments of
my deceased friend rendered impracticable, and I could only take
advantage of what he had it in his power to bestow, in casual
conversations, or in answer to the questions I was now and then obliged
to ask him, such as he was ever ready, on all occasions, to satisfy,
because, to use his own words, he knew they were "likely to be of use."
The following remarks of Dr. Wahlenberg display a singular acuteness of
observation. They are a complete picture, drawn by a masterly hand, not
only to the adept in Natural History, but to every one who has the least
taste for beholding the face of Nature, under its most striking and
unusual aspects. The able author is, as yet, but slightly known to
English readers, even in the more technical part of his science. What
we are now to lay before them gives a promise of his taking a high rank
amongst writers of a superior and more generally interesting class, one
of those in short who touch upon no subject without enriching it.
* * * * *
Dr. Wahlenberg's remarks are divided into eight sections, each of which
describes a separate line of elevation.
1. On approaching the Lapland Alps (_Fjäll_), we first arrive at the
line where the Spruce Fir, _Pinus Abies_, ceases to grow. This tree had
previously assumed an unusual appearance; that of a tall slender pole,
covered from the ground with short, drooping, dark branches; a gloomy
object in these desolate forests! The _Rubus arcticus_ had already,
before we arrived at this point, ceased to bring its fruit to maturity.
With the Spruce we lose the _Rosa cinnamomea_, _Convallaria bifolia_,
&c.; and the borders of the lakes are stripped of their ornaments of
_Arundo Phragmites_, _Lysimachia thyrsiflora_, _Galium boreale_, and
_Carex globularis_. Here is the true station of _Tussilago nivea_
(Willd. Sp. Pl. v. 3. 1970.) The last beaver-houses are seen in the
rivulets, and no Pike nor Perch is to be found in the lakes higher up.
The boundary of the Spruce Fir is 3200 feet below the line of perpetual
snow, and the mean temperature is about 3° of Celsius's thermometer
(37½ of Fahrenheit).
2. Scotch Firs (_Pinus sylvestris_) are still found, but not near so
tall as in the lower country. Their stems here are low, and their
branches widely extended. Here are seen the last of _Ledum palustre_,
_Salix pentandra_, _Veronica serpyllifolia_, &c. The bogs have already a
very steril appearance. Near the utmost boundary of the Scotch Fir grows
_Phaca alpina_. Higher up are hardly any Bears to be met with, and the
berries of _Vaccinium Myrtillus_ (the Bilberry) do not ripen well.
_Salmo Lavaretus_ (the Gwiniad), and _S. Thymallus_ (the Grayling),
soon after disappear from the lakes. The upper limit of this zone, when
the Scotch Firs cease, is 2800 feet below the line of perpetual snow,
and the mean temperature about 2,°5 of Celsius (36½ of Fahrenheit.) A
little below this point, or about 3000 feet before we come to perpetual
snow, Barley ceases to ripen; but small farms, the occupiers of which
live by grazing and fishing, are met with as far as 400 feet higher, for
instance, Naimaka in Enontekis, and so far also potatoes and turnips
grow large enough to be worth cultivating.
3. Beyond this the dwarf and stunted forests consist only of Birch. Its
short thick stem, and stiff, widely spreading, knotty branches, seem
prepared to resist the strong winds from the alps. Its lively light
green hue is delightful to the eye, but evinces a weakness of
vegetation. These Birch forests soon become so low, that they may be
entirely commanded from the smallest eminence. Their uppermost boundary,
where the tallest of the trees are not equal to the height of a man, is
2000 feet below the line of perpetual snow. This zone is therefore much
wider than the preceding. Long before its termination _Alnus incana_,
_Prunus Padus_, and _Populus tremula_, were no more to be seen. A little
before the Birch ceases, we miss the _Sorbus Aucuparia_ (_Pyrus
Aucuparia_, Fl. Brit.) which for some time had not presented us with any
fruit; the _Rubus arcticus_ already likewise barren; _Erica vulgaris_,
_Aconitum lycoctonum_, &c. Where the Birch forest becomes thinner, the
reflection of the heat from the sides of the mountains is the strongest.
Here in many spots we find the vegetation of _Sonchus alpinus_,
_Struthiopteris_, and _Aconitum lycoctonum_ remarkably luxuriant. The
drier spots now become covered with _Lichen rangiferinus_. _Tussilago
frigida_ and _Pedicularis Sceptrum-Carolinum_ have their place to the
utmost boundary of the Birch. Thus far only Charr (_Salmo alpinus_) is
found in the lakes, and higher up all fishing ceases.
4. All mountains above this limit are called _Fjäll_ (Alps). Near
rivulets and on the margins of bogs only, is found a little brush-wood,
consisting of _Salix glauca_, whose grey hue affords but little ornament
to the landscape. The lower country is covered with the dark-looking
_Betula nana_, which still retains its upright posture. A few Juniper
bushes, and some plants of _Salix hastata_, are found scattered about.
Every hill is covered with _Arbutus alpina_, variegated with _Andromeda
cærulea_ and _Trientalis europæa_. The more boggy ground is decorated
with _Andromeda polifolia_ in its greatest beauty, and _Pedicularis
lapponica_. On the sides of the mountains, where the reflected heat has
the greatest power, grow _Veronica alpina_, _Viola biflora_, _Pteris
crispa_, and _Angelica Archangelica_. This zone extends within 1400 feet
of the line of perpetual snow. The Glutton (_Mustela Gulo_) goes no
higher than this. The berries of _Rubus Chamæmorus_ still ripen here,
but not at a greater degree of elevation.
5. Now no more brushwood is to be seen. The white _Salix lanata_ is not
above two feet high, even about the rivulets, and _Salix myrsinites_ is
of still more humble growth. _Betula nana_ occupies the drier
situations, but creeps entirely upon the ground. The hills are clothed
with the rather brown than green _Azalea procumbens_ and _Azalea
lapponica_, which give this zone its most peculiar feature. Verdant
spots between the precipices, where the sun has the greatest power,
produce _Lychnis apetala_, _Erigeron uniflorum_, _Astragalus
leontinus_[17] and _montanus_, with _Ophrys alpina_. In boggy places
_Aira alpina_, _Carex ustulata_, and _Vaccinium uliginosum_ are
observable. The only berries however which ripen at this degree of
elevation, are those of _Empetrum nigrum_; but these are twice as large
as what grow in the woodlands, and better flavoured. The upper boundary
of this zone is 800 feet below the line of perpetual snow. The
Laplanders scarcely ever fix their tents higher up, as the pasture for
their reindeer ceases a very little way above this point. The mean
temperature is about +1° of Celsius (34 of Fahrenheit).
6. Next come the snowy alps, where are patches of snow that never melt.
The bare places between still produce a few dark shrubby plants, such as
_Empetrum nigrum_, but destitute of berries, _Andromeda tetragona_ and
_hypnoides_, as well as _Diapensia lapponica_. Green precipices exposed
to the sun are decorated with the vivid azure tints of _Gentiana
tenella_ and _nivalis_, and _Campanula uniflora_, accompanied by the
yellow _Draba alpina_. Colder and marshy situations, where there is no
reflected heat, produce _Pedicularis hirsuta_ and _flammea_, with _Dryas
octopetala_. This zone extends to 200 feet below the limits of
perpetual and almost uninterrupted snow.
7. Beyond it perpetual snow begins to cover the greatest part of the
ground, and we soon arrive at a point where only a few dark spots are
here and there to be seen. This takes place on the Alps of Quickjock at
the elevation of 4100 feet above the sea; but nearer the highest ridge,
and particularly on the Norway side of that ridge, at 3100 feet. Some
few plants, with succulent leaves, are thinly scattered over the spongy
brown surface of the ground, where the reflected heat is strongest,
quite up to the line of uninterrupted snow. These are _Saxifraga
stellaris_, _rivularis_ and _oppositifolia_, _Ranunculus nivalis_ and
_glacialis_, _Rumex digynus_, _Juncus curvatus_[18] and _Silene
acaulis_. The mean temperature at the boundary of perpetual snow is
+0,°4 of Celsius, (32¾ of Fahrenheit).
8. Above the line of perpetual snow, the cold is occasionally so much
diminished, that a few plants of _Ranunculus glacialis_, and other
similar ones, may now and then be found, in the clefts of some dark rock
rising through the snow. This happens even to the height of 500 feet
above that line. Further up the snow is very rarely moistened. Yet some
umbilicated Lichens (_Gyrophoræ_), &c., still occur in the crevices of
perpendicular rocks, even to the height of 2000 feet above the line of
perpetual snow. These are the utmost limits of all vegetation, where the
mean temperature seems to be +1,°1 of Celsius (30 of Fahrenheit). The
Snow Bunting, _Emberiza nivalis_, is the only living being that visits
this elevated spot.