_May 28,_
however, I arrived at Genom, the last village in Westbothland, seven
miles from the great road which leads westward from Umoea. Not having
reposed since I left the place last mentioned, I slept here all night.
_May 29._
The next morning I proceeded in a boat up the river of Umoea as far as
Lycksele church, which is the first in Umoean Lapmark, and situated five
miles distant from Grano. This was Whitsun-eve.
_May 30._
Being Whitsunday, I determined to stay here. Indeed Mr. Gran the
minister of the place[15] (Pastor Gran in the original) wished me to
wait till the next Sabbath-day, as he did not think it advisable for me
to proceed, so as to come suddenly among the Laplanders, before he had
made my design known from the pulpit. He was apprehensive that I might
meet with the same accident as his own wife had done, who coming
unexpectedly upon these people, had a fire-lock presented to her breast.
Notwithstanding this, the rise of the water in the river, in consequence
of the advancing summer among the Alps, was so rapid, that I was on that
account induced to hasten my departure, after having engaged one of the
colonists to accompany me by water to the nearest habitation of some one
of the native Laplanders.
_May 31._
The divine service of this day being over, I left Lycksele, taking with
me only three loaves of bread, and some rein-deer tongues, by way of
provision. I presumed that I should procure among the Laplanders flesh
of the rein-deer, cheese, milk, fish, fowl, &c. Nor, indeed, could I
well take any thing more at present; for, whenever we came at any shoals
or falls in the river, it was necessary for my companion to take our
boat on his head, over mountains and valleys, so that I had not only my
own luggage to carry at such times, but his likewise.
_June 1._
Having by morning come within the territories of the nearest Laplander,
we left our boat on the shore of the river, and went in search of this
man through the wild forests, where we saw no more traces of roads or
enclosures than if the country were entirely uninhabited. We met,
however, with several deserted huts, where he had at one time or other
resided.
Being exceedingly tired with this walk, I was glad to repose myself here
in the desert, while my Finland conductor went in search of my future
guide. Nor was I without considerable fears that this man, when he had
met with the Laplander, might not be able to find me again. However,
about noon he returned, accompanied by a Laplander, who took charge of
me, inviting me home to his hut, where he treated me with fish, and
fresh water.
I was afterwards conducted from one Laplander to another, till I came to
a part of the river, about twenty-five miles above Lycksele. I shall not
dwell on the inconveniences I was obliged to undergo every time we had
to seek for any of the Laplanders, while I was quite destitute of
provisions. These poor people themselves had, at this season, nothing
but fish to eat, as they had not yet begun to slaughter their reindeer,
nor to go a fowling; neither had they, as yet, milked any of their
reindeer.
_June 2._
On coming to the place just mentioned, we found it impracticable to
proceed by water, the river being so rapid, and so much impeded by
falls, that we were obliged to undertake a walk of a few miles further,
which I was told would bring us to a more navigable stream. After
walking for some time, a fen or marsh lay before us, seemingly half a
mile broad, which we had to cross. At every step the water was above our
knees, and the ice was at the bottom. Where the frost was quite gone, we
often sunk still deeper. When we had traversed this marsh, we sought in
vain for any human creature, and were therefore under the necessity, a
little further on, of crossing another bog, still worse than the former,
and a mile in extent. I know not what I would not rather have undertaken
than to pass this place, especially as the elements were all adverse,
for it blowed and rained violently.
_June 3._
By four o'clock this morning, having conquered all our difficulties, we
still could not meet with any Laplander. I was so fatigued that I could
proceed no further without some repose. We therefore made a fire; and
having dried my clothes, I lay down by the side of it, in hopes of
taking a little rest. But in this I had no success. The fire scorched me
on one side, while the cold north wind pinched me on the other; and the
gnats so stung my hands, face, and legs, that it was impossible to
sleep. Thus I remained in expectation of my Lapland conductor, who had
set out in search of another, till two o'clock in the afternoon. I could
not help thinking how miserably I might have to end my days here, in
case he should think proper to desert me entirely. At length, however,
he returned, bringing with him a little black-looking woman, whose hair
hung loose about her shoulders, with a red cap upon her head. I scarcely
think that any poet could have described a fury so hideous as this
woman. She addressed me in Swedish to the following effect. "Oh, thou
poor man! what misfortune can have brought thee into my country? Seest
thou what miserable living we have? I have never yet seen any stranger
here in summer. Whence dost thou come, and whither dost thou intend to
go?" Having tasted nothing for four days past but a little fresh fish,
without any bread, I asked her, seeing a small kettle in her hand, what
she could give me to eat. She immediately set about boiling a pike which
she had brought with her; but when I was going to taste it, I observed
heaps of vermin between the gills, which made me loathe it altogether,
and rather continue to fast, though my strength suffered much. This
woman informed me there was no boat to be had on the next river, and
that I had only to return the way I came; which words were like a stroke
of thunder to me. I know not any thing I would less willingly have
undertaken than to traverse again these Stygian marshes, which were now
not to be avoided. However, this good woman conducted us to a side path,
whereby we avoided about half a mile of the way we had come. In
traversing the forest, we arrived at a shed, supported by four posts,
and covered with a roof. Here hung some clothes, and a small rein-deer
cheese, which last I immediately wished to obtain. But the woman
refused, saying she should want it herself for the next holiday. My
hunger was such, that I could not lose sight of this cheese, and I was
induced to offer her any thing she was pleased to ask for it, telling
her I verily believed I should hardly survive another day if I had it
not. At length she complied, and the cheese proved afterwards of the
most signal service to me. We then took leave of our female companion,
and began to measure back our steps. I was thus obliged to return by the
course of the river, having, with the thoughtlessness of youth,
undertaken more than it was possible to perform.
We continued our voyage down the river, being carried with great
velocity by the current, the whole of the next day. At length coming to
an island, the Laplander failed in his attempt to weather it, and the
boat, striking against a rock, was dashed to pieces. We both found
ourselves in the water; but the depth being inconsiderable, we soon
landed on the island. My conductor lost not only his boat, but a hatchet
and pike. I lost two stuffed birds, one of them a large Heron (_Ardea
cinerea_?) which was black with a white breast; the other a Red-bird, or
_Gvousach_, as the Laplanders call it, (_Corvus_, or _Lanius infaustus_,
see _v._ 2. 109.) It was with great difficulty we got from this island
to the shore. The sun shone warm; and after having wrung the water out
of our clothes, we walked on for about a mile, along the bank of the
river, amongst thickets and bogs, till we came in sight of a colonist,
who was fishing for pike. He gave me some provision, and conducted me to
Grano, where I only stopped to rest one night, and on the evening of the
8th of June arrived at Umoea.
_June 12._
Early this morning I set out by land towards Pithoea, where I arrived
after two days journey, for the night was as pleasant for travelling as
the day. Here I met with kind entertainment from Mr. Solander, the
principal clergyman of the place.
_June 19._
I went out to sea in a boat for some miles, to explore the neighbouring
coast and islands, and returned at length to the new town. Here however
I made no long stay, but proceeded in one day from thence to Lulea. I
was anxious to lose as little time as possible, being very desirous of
reaching the alps of Lulean Lapland time enough to see the sun above the
horizon at midnight, which is seen to greater advantage there than at
Tornea.
_June 25._
Taking leave of the town, I embarked on the river of Lulea, which I
continued to navigate upwards for several successive days and nights,
having good accommodation both as to food and boat. The boats here are
excellent, far unlike those in the district of Umoean Lapland, which
are, in a manner, only sewed together, so that a foot set on one of
their sides is sufficient to stave them; and if the passengers are not
careful how they sit down, the boat is overset. After three days and
three nights, we reached Quickjock, situated close to the alps. Here I
received from the famous wife of the curate Mr. Grot provisions
sufficient to last me for eight days.
_July 6._
After several days' travelling, on the evening of July 6th I ascended
_Wallavari_, the first mountain of the alps on this side, which is
indeed of a very considerable height. My companion was a Laplander, who
served me both as servant and interpreter. In the latter capacity his
assistance was highly requisite, few persons being to be met with on
these alps who are acquainted with the Swedish language; nor was I
willing to trust myself alone among these wild people, who were ignorant
for what purpose I came. I had already suffered much in the Lapland part
of Umoea for want of knowing the language. Nor was my companion wanted
less to assist me in carrying what was necessary, for I had sufficient
incumbrances of my own, without being the bearer of our provisions into
the bargain.
On my first ascending these wild alps, I felt as if in a new world. Here
were no forests to be seen, nothing but mountains upon mountains, larger
and larger as I advanced, all covered with snow. No road, no tracks, nor
any signs of inhabitants were visible. The verdure of summer seemed to
shun this frozen region, retiring into the deep valleys between the
mountains. I saw very few birds, except some Ptarmigans, which the
Laplanders call _Cheruna_ (_Tetrao Lagopus_), running with their young
along the vales. The delightful season of spring, whose cheering
influence on man and all living nature I had so lately experienced in
the beginning of my journey, seemed an alien here. The declining sun
never disappeared sufficiently to allow any cooling shade, and by
climbing to the more elevated parts of these lofty mountains, I could
see it at midnight above the horizon. When I cast my eyes over the grass
and herbage, there were few objects I had seen before, so that all
nature was alike strange to me. I sat down to collect and describe these
vegetable rarities, while the time passed unperceived away, and my
interpreter was obliged to remind me that we had still five or six miles
to go to the nearest Laplander, and that if we had a mind for any
rein-deer meat, we ought to bestir ourselves quickly. We proceeded
therefore up and down the snowy hills, sometimes passing along their
precipitous sides, which was the most difficult travelling of all, and
for many a long way we walked over heaps of stones. About the evening
of the following day we reached the nearest spot where any Laplander was
at that time settled. The man we met with gave me a very good reception,
and furnished me with a couple of rein-deer skins to sleep between.
Immediately after my arrival, the herd, consisting of seven or eight
hundred head of rein-deer, came home. These were milked, and some of the
milk was boiled for my entertainment, but it proved rather too rich for
my stomach. My host furnished me with his own spoon, which he carried in
his tobacco-bag. On my expressing a wish, through my interpreter, to
have the spoon washed, my Lapland friend immediately complied, taking a
mouthful of water, and spitting it over the spoon.
After having satisfied my hunger, and refreshed myself with sleep, I
steered my course directly South-west, towards the alps of Pithoea,
proceeding from thence to the lofty icy mountains, or main ridge of the
country. A walk of scarcely above four or five miles further brought me
to the western edge of this ridge, for I was desirous of examining that
side of the mountains, to see how it agreed with the eastern part. I had
no sooner arrived at the icy mountains than a storm overtook me,
accompanied by a shower of thin pieces of ice, which soon formed an icy
crust over my own clothes and those of my conductor. The severity of the
cold obliged me to borrow the gloves and _lappmudd_ (coat of rein-deer
skin) from the man who accompanied me. But the weather proved more
favourable as soon as we had crossed the summit of the ridge. From hence
the verdant appearance of Norway, lying far beneath us, was very
delightful. The whole country was perfectly green, and, notwithstanding
its vast extent, looked like a garden in miniature, for the tallest
trees appeared not above a span high. As we began to descend the alps,
it seemed as if we should soon arrive at the lower country, but our
calculations were very inadequate to what we found its actual distance.
At length, however, we reached the plains of which we had enjoyed so
stupendous a prospect. Nothing could be more delightful to my feelings
than this transition, from all the severity of winter, to the warmth and
beauty of summer. The verdant herbage, the sweet-scented clover, the
tall grass reaching up to my arms, the grateful flavour of the wild
fruits, and the fine weather which welcomed me to the foot of the alps,
seemed to refresh me both in mind and body.
Here I found myself close to the sea coast. I took up my abode at the
house of a ship-master, with whom I made an agreement to be taken in a
boat, the following day, along the coast. I much wished to approach the
celebrated whirlpool, called the _Maelstrom_, but I could find nobody
willing to venture near it.
We set sail the next morning according to appointment, but the wind
proved contrary, and the boat-men were, after a while, exhausted with
rowing. Meantime I amused myself in examining various petrifactions,
zoophytes, and submarine plants of the _Fucus_ tribe, which occupied
every part of the coast. In the evening I arrived at the house of Mr.
Rask, the pastor of Torfjorden, who gave me a kind reception.
Next day we proceeded further on our voyage; but the contrary wind
exhausted our patience, and we veered about, soon reaching the place
from whence we had first set out, the wind being directly in our favour
for that purpose.
On the following morning I climbed one of the neighbouring mountains,
with the intention of measuring its height. While I was reposing in
perfect tranquillity on the side of the hill, busied only in loosening a
stone which I wanted to examine, I heard the report of a gun at a small
distance below. I was however too far off to receive any hurt, so,
thanks to Providence, I escaped, but my alarm may be easily imagined.
Perceiving the man who had fired the gun, I pursued him to a
considerable distance, in order to prevent his charging his piece a
second time, and I determined never to go there again without some
protection. I inquired who it could be that had made this unprovoked
attack, but I found it impossible to gain any information on the
subject.
On the 15th of July[16] we set out on our return, and that whole day was
employed in climbing the mountains again, to our no small fatigue and
exhaustion, the ground we had to pass over being so extremely steep as
well as lofty. When we reached the cold snowy mountains, indeed, we had
sufficient opportunity to cool ourselves.
From hence we turned our course towards the alps of Tornea, which were
described to me as about forty miles distant. What I endured in the
course of this journey is hardly to be described. How many weary steps
was I obliged to set to climb the precipices that came in my way, and
how excessive were my perspiration and fatigue! Nor were these the worst
evils we had to encounter before we reached Caituma. Sometimes we were
enveloped with clouds, so that we could not see before us; sometimes
rivers impeded our progress, and obliged us either to choose a very
circuitous path, or to wade naked through the cold snow water. This
fresh snow water however proved a most welcome and salutary refreshment,
for without it we should never have been able to encounter the excessive
heat of the weather. Water was our only drink during this journey, but
it never proved so refreshing as when we sucked it out of the melting
snow. Having nearly reached the Lapland village of Caituma, the
inhabitants of which seemed perfectly wild, running away from their
huts as soon as they perceived us approaching, from a considerable
distance, I began to be tired of advancing further up into this
inhospitable country. We had not at this time tasted bread for several
days, the stock we had brought with us being entirely exhausted. The
rich milk of the reindeer was too luscious to be eaten without bread,
and the ordinary or second-rate cheese occasioned such a degree of
costiveness as I could no longer endure. I determined therefore to
return towards Quickjock, which was forty miles from this spot. In the
course of my journey thither, walking rather carelessly over the snow,
without noticing a hole which the water had made, I fell through the icy
crust into the deep snow. The interpreter and guide were totally unable
to assist me, the cavity in which I lay being very steep, and so
hollowed out by the water that it surrounded me like a wall. It was not
in their power to reach me without a rope, which they luckily were able
to procure to drag me out of the hole. I had received a blow on my thigh
in the fall, the effects of which I felt for a month afterwards. One of
my guides had met with a similar accident but a week before.
At length we arrived at Quickjock, after having been four weeks without
tasting bread. Those who have not experienced the want of this essential
support of life, can scarcely imagine how hard it is to be deprived of
it so long, even with a superfluity of all other kinds of food. I
remained four days at Quickjock to recruit my strength, and afterwards
descended the river again to Lulea. There being no boat to be had north
of Purkijaur, we were obliged to construct a raft for ourselves. Our
voyage was very perilous, for the wind and current both combined to
overset us, so that it was not without the greatest exertion we saved
ourselves, and it being night, nobody heard our cries for assistance.
The next day I was conducted to the river of Calatz, to see the manner
of fishing for pearls, and on the 30th of July arrived at Lulea.
Here I rested for a day or two, then proceeded to Tornea, and from
thence to Kimi, and some way up the river of that name. Afterwards I
entered East Bothland; but not understanding the Finnish language, I
found it inconvenient to proceed, and preferred returning four miles
back again. I made several excursions to an adjacent island. At the town
of Calix I became acquainted with the judge of a neighbouring district,
and we accompanied each other to Tornea, from whence I proceeded in a
boat to Kengis, Jonesvando, and within four miles of Juckesceni; but as
the frost was beginning to set in very hard, it being late in autumn,
and there being nothing, as far as I could discover, very remarkable to
see, I descended the river again in the same boat, and had a quick
passage back. Having noted down the Finnish names for such articles as
I should be most likely to want at the inns, I ventured once more to
enter East Bothland, in order to pursue my journey that way homeward. I
considered that in a new country there is always something new to be
seen, and that to travel the same road I had come, would probably afford
but little entertainment or instruction. I had still less inclination,
at this advanced season of the year, to encounter the hazard of a sea
voyage. Several merchants who wanted to sail from Tornea to Stockholm,
had long been waiting for a fair wind.
I therefore pursued my way along the coast through East Bothland and
Finland, visiting Ulea, Brakestad, Old and New Carleby, Wasa, Christina,
Biorreborg and Abo, remaining four days at the place last mentioned. I
then went by the post yacht to Aland, crossed the sea of Aland, and on
the 10th of October reached Upsal.
The whole extent of my journey amounts to 633 Swedish miles (about 3798
English miles) as appears by my itinerary subjoined.
Miles.
From Upsal to Umoea 60
Umoea to Lycksele 12
Lycksele to the upper part of Lapmark 25
From thence again to Umoea 37
From Umoea to Pithoea 22
Pithoea to Longoen 3
Back again to Pithoea 3
From thence to Lulea 5
Lulea to Quickjock 33
Quickjock to the alps of Pithoea 25
From thence to the Norway coast 10
Excursion by sea, and back again, 14
From Norway to Caitum 40
From Caitum to Quickjock 40
Quickjock to Tornea 47
Tornea to Kimi 5
From hence to Maxaniemi 5
Maxaniemi to Calix 9
Calix to Kengis 32
Kengis to Jonesvando 40
Jonesvando to Tornea 26
Tornea to Abo 100
Abo to Upsal 40
-----
633
(The account of the expenses of this journey, and observations on the
advantages to be derived from it, both promised in the beginning of this
"brief narrative," are not found in the manuscript.)