_August 11._
I departed from the house of the chief clergyman of Kimi, whose name is
Forbus or Forbers, and that of his wife Christian.
Here I observed the _Lumme_ of Wormius, (_Colymbus arcticus_; see _v._
1. 27.) Its outermost toes were largest, and most naked; the next, or
middlemost, smaller; the thumb, or inner most, very small.
A skin of a squirrel, that had been caught in winter, was white towards
the end of the rump, as were also the outermost toes, and the ears.
In my journey this day I met with the _Stratiotes_ (_aloides_), and the
_Butomus_ (_umbellatus_); as well as the _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_),
the spotted _Palma Christi_ (_Orchis maculata_), and the _Gnidium_.
(This last could be no other than the Mezereon, _Daphne Mezereum_,
formerly called _Coccognidium_.)
I found also the Ladies' Slipper (_Cypripedium Calceolus_), but it was
almost out of flower.
The calyx consists of four long, coloured, lanceolate leaves, two of
which, the upper and lower, are longer and broader than the two lateral
ones. Petals two, the uppermost inversely ovate, reflexed, bearing the
anthers. Is it the pistil? The lowermost inflated, obtuse, about an inch
long. Anthers two. Fruit below the flower, of one cell, oval, with three
principal and three smaller angles, splitting laterally into three
valves, having a central column between them. The seeds adhere
longitudinally to the middle of the placenta (or receptacle). The herb
has the aspect of _Veratrum_.
_August 12._
The forests hereabouts are composed of Birch and Spruce fir mixed with
Pine (_Pinus sylvestris_), and a little Juniper (_Juniperus communis_).
The herbaceous plants grow luxuriantly in these woods, and attain a
remarkable height. Berries of the Wild Vine (_Rubus saxatilis_), the
_Vaccinium_ (Whortleberry), _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), _Empetrum_
(Crow or Crake-berry), and (_Rubus_) _Chamæmorus_, are here in
abundance. The (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_ presents itself
every where in the highway.
The pales, with which the fields are fenced off, are placed horizontally
against upright posts.
The houses, or rather smoke-huts, are called _Pyrter_ in this part of
the country. In these there is no proper fire-place, but the whole is an
oven, as it were, consisting of the four walls of the house, with a
flat cieling. In the latter is a hole by way of chimney, but not
partially covered by any kind of lid, or trap-door, as in Norway, (see
_vol._ 1. 357,) so that when the fire, made on a hearth under this
opening, is very smoky, it might be entirely opened to let out the
smoke. There is indeed a sort of wooden window in the roof, but it is
rarely opened. The people think themselves the warmer because the smoke
can escape by the door only, and are persuaded that they should be
frozen to death if they had a chimney; which opinion seems to me
altogether absurd. Would it not be better to have chimneys, with a
moderate degree of warmth, than a heat like that of a bagnio, with blind
and sore eyes, and a black sooty house? They lie on the floor in the
midst of this smoke, and that is their only bed. Notwithstanding their
opinion, I cannot help thinking that full as much cold air enters by the
door, as there could by a chimney. They are so anxious to keep
themselves warm, that they do not venture to have any windows, only
shutters in their stead; indeed they seem to be as fond of darkness as
owls. I peeped into one of these houses through a shutter, and within
was perfect darkness. Nevertheless there were several children and other
persons in the dwelling. I could distinguish nothing but what seemed to
me a pair of glaring fiery eyes, like the devil, in a sort of large jug.
On looking more attentively, I perceived that the object before me was
actually a jug or pot, in which I had already remarked that they were
accustomed to carry lighted embers, when wanted, to their neighbours.
I am sure the peasants of Smoland often make a fire sufficient to roast
them alive, though their houses are furnished with chimneys, and their
fires are made, as at this place, with small pieces of wood. To say the
truth, few persons can be of opinion that such excessive heat, in the
winter of this very severe climate, can be wholesome.
I have already mentioned that the inhabitants of these smoky dwellings
have no beds, but actually sleep on the floor. In the summer season,
however, they generally sleep in their barns. Round the inside of the
above-described hut or cottage, are ranged various tubs or wooden
vessels. In one corner, opposite to the spot where the fire is made,
stands a table.
As it would be impossible to bear a fire in these dwellings during the
heats of summer, their owners have another building which serves them
for a kitchen. This is almost of the shape of the Laplanders' huts, but
double their width and height, consisting of cloven beams or posts, such
as are used for the fences of the fields, only not covered in, like the
dwellings of the Laplanders. In the centre, where all the posts meet at
the top, the pot is suspended over the fire. Here they boil their
provisions, distil brandy, &c.
The stage-houses[13] are constructed like those seen at some posthouses
in our part of the country, having the centre of the roof raised on
longitudinal timbers. They are lofty, but narrow. The wooden walls curve
outwards towards the top.
This year the crops of corn proved very bad in this neighbourhood, so
that the inhabitants were obliged to chop their chaff, with the upper
part of the straw, as fine as possible, of which, when ground, they made
bread. Others preferred the bark of Pine-trees (_Pinus sylvestris_) for
this purpose. The fields of rye, sown in the autumn, were at this time
quite green. The winter rye, sown last year, was not yet cut. The
sheaves are not laid upon any stage, or under any cover, but are placed
ten together in a heap, standing nearly upright, the uppermost sheaf
being laid across, so as to shelter the others. They are afterwards
carried into the kilns, which at this place have exactly the appearance
of bagnios, with ovens built of boulder stones.
The fastenings of the doors are quite different here from those used in
Smoland, which are fixed into the floor, and capable of being raised or
depressed at pleasure. The fastening here is a kind of long button upon
the door, on the side where the hinges are fixed, which being turned
horizontally over the door-post, prevents the opening of the door.
By the road side grew an _Amanita_ (Agaric) with a stalk two inches
high, and as thick as a goose-quill. Its head was hemispherical; pale
above; concave beneath, with loose gills. (Probably _Agaricus n._ 499.
_Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. 373. _Fl. Suec. n._ 1217. _ed._ 2. 446.)
[Illustration]
The scythes used in this country nearly resemble those of the
Norwegians, but differ in this respect, that the upper projection from
the handle stands out horizontally, see figure e, b, while the lower, c,
is perpendicular, and the top, a, which rests against the arm, is
flattened. The mower is therefore obliged to take hold of the foremost
projection, with his left hand, under the main handle. The advantage
of this is, that he is able to move forward in a nearly upright posture.
The Norwegian however walks still more erect in mowing. The proportions
of this Kimi scythe are as follows: From a to b one foot and a half; b
to c two palms and a half; c to d two feet; the breadth at b two inches
in a right line. The length of the projection b is three inches; and of
c the same. The blade is like our Smoland ones, but stands at an acute
angle with the handle.
The harrow consists of four or five links, in each of which are twelve
joints. These have alternately one and two projecting pieces each. (See
the figure annexed to the scythe just described, _p._ 159)
In the stage-houses (see _p._ 156,) boilers are fixed in the walls, for
boiling horse-dung, which is given as food to the cattle; as well as to
heat water for pouring on reindeer moss (_Lichen rangiferinus_), which
is also used for the same purpose; but such diet gives a loathsome taste
to their milk. In the roof of these houses hams and salmon are
smoke-dried.
During the winter the people are obliged to work in their miserable
cabins or _Pyrter_, when they open their shutters; but nevertheless find
themselves sufficiently warm.
The annexed cut represents a sort of plough, used at Kimi.
[Illustration]
a, the base, is three palms long and one broad.
b, b, handles, each a palm in length.
c, d, shafts, six feet long, and of a round figure.
e, e, chains by which the shafts are attached to the collar or yoke.
The distance betwixt e and e is three feet.
f, f, a straight or flat cross bandage.
g, m, the base of the plough-share, three feet in length, and two
palms and a half broad.
h, h, points of the share, five palms long; distant at their base
one foot three inches, at their extremities two feet.
i, i, a chain of long links, fastened to a ring that embraces the
base of each point of the share, into which chain, at k, is
introduced the handle l; this acts so as to bring the points
together rather than to separate them.
It must be observed that the inner edge of these points is turned
downward, so that when the handle or _spatula_ l is put in at k, and is
laid upon one of them, the earth is thrown on one side, and this is done
alternately with the two points. The part m is slightly curved, as well
as the points proceeding from it. When it is intended to make a deep
trench, as in cutting through turf in the marshes, l is laid parallel to
m, while the rings at f, f, as well as at i, i, prevent the plough-share
from going too far downward.
No kind of plough is used at Tornea, all the ground being turned over
with the spade. The same is the case at Kimi, except in the fields where
rye is sown, and these are ploughed with the plough just described.
It is a common custom at Kimi to furnish out a table with five or six
plates, and as many spoons, napkins, &c., though only one or two persons
are expected to dinner. There is at the post-house a free table (or
ordinary).
In the land belonging to the clergyman of Kimi, I found the (_Lythrum_)
_Salicaria_ with a very unusual aspect, having alternate leaves, and a
solitary flower in the bosom of each. (The original specimens in the
Linnæan herbarium have two or more flowers to the upper leaves.)
My intention was to have extended my journey into the province of East
Bothnia; but on applying at the post-house, I could neither procure a
horse, nor any thing to eat, for the inhabitants either could not, or
would not, understand me. I therefore took leave of them the same day I
arrived, and turned my steps backward.
The Finlanders in East Bothland are dressed very much like the
Laplanders, and therefore agree with them in general appearance. Their
dress is the same with respect to their cap, their light-grey jacket,
their breeches reaching down to the feet, their half-boots, their belt
into which they stick their knife, and the use of hooks and eyes upon
their clothes instead of buttons. But they differ in not having a high
collar, and in wearing a shirt and neckcloth, as well as in having their
coat open before. They stick nothing into their girdle but a knife,
though some people carry a key at the end of it. Their breeches are tied
round the knees.
At church I observed some men with a girdle of black list, just as it
was rent from the cloth, wound two or three times round the waist, which
formed a contrast with their grey jackets. The women however dress in
articles purchased from other countries, and make quite a different
appearance from the Lapland females.
East Bothnia, being a low country, abounds in marshes, bogs, and fens.
The grass is tall; but still there is such a deficiency of hay, that
they buy up horse-dung at Tornea, and boil it, as I have said, in the
boilers built up in some of their houses; in which also they boil water
to pour over the reindeer moss.
The bread used by the inhabitants of this country in the present season
of scarcity was made principally of chaff cut fine and ground.
The winter rye, sown but this day se'n-night, had already sprung up, and
made the fields quite green.