Poverty is difficult to bear under any circumstances, but when
compelled entirely to alter our habits of life in the same place where
we have lived differently, we certainly feel it more acutely than when
we at once change the scene, and see around us nothing we can well
compare with what is past. It is unnecessary to say by what means
_our_ easy fortune was reduced to a mere pittance; but, alas! it _was_
so, and we found ourselves forced to seek another dwelling-place.
Following the example of most of our country-people in a similar
situation, therefore, we resolved to go abroad; not, indeed, to enjoy
society on an income which would in England totally shut us out from
it, but to live in absolute retirement upon next to nothing. A cousin
of mine--whose friend, Mlle de Flotte, long resident in England, had
married a countryman of her own, and settled in Normandy--wrote to Mme
de Terelcourt accordingly, to ask if there was a habitable hut in her
neighbourhood where we might find shelter for three years, before
which time we were told the settlement of our affairs could scarcely
be completed. The answer was favourable: there was, she said, near the
village of Flotte, a cottage which contained a kitchen, three rooms,
and a garret where a _bonne_ might sleep. A large garden was attached
to it full of fruit-trees, though in a most neglected condition, and
even the house requiring to be made weather-tight; but as the landlord
undertook this latter business, and the rent for the whole was only
L.12 a year, we gladly closed with the offer, and at the end of the
month of April proceeded to take possession of our new home.
The situation was most lovely. The garden surrounded three sides of
the cottage, and a large green field, or rather thinly-planted
apple-orchard, the other, where grazed four fine cows belonging to a
farm on the opposite side of the lane, which supplied us with butter,
eggs, and milk, and was near enough not to annoy but to gratify our
ears with the country sounds so pleasant to those fond of rural
things, and to give us the feeling of help at hand in case of any
emergency. We were on the slope of a tolerably lofty hill; the
high-road was below, where we could see and hear the diligence pass;
but saving this, the farm-yard noises, and the birds and bees in the
garden, were the only disturbers of our perfect quiet, except, indeed,
the soothing sound of a small brook tinkling over a tiny waterfall,
quite audible, although a good way on the other side of the _grande
route_. The town of C---- was seen to our right, the sea glittering
beyond; and a rocky, shrubby dell, through which the little stream
above mentioned murmured merrily on its way, turning a rustic mill,
was the prospect from the windows. Two lime-trees stood at the gate,
inside of which we joyfully discovered an unexpected lodge or cottage,
containing two little rooms and a large shed, which had not been
mentioned in the description, and which we found most useful for
stowing away packing-cases, hampers, and boxes, keeping potatoes and
apples, and a hundred things besides. The short road--avenue, our
landlord termed it--which led from this to the house, had a
strawberry-bank on one side, a row of cherry-trees on the other; and
the garden, although overgrown with weeds and sprawling shrubs, looked
quite capable of being easily made very pretty indeed. The entrance to
this our magnificent château was through the kitchen only; for the
room next it, although it could boast of an outside-door likewise, had
none which opened into the interior of the house, was neither lathed
nor plastered, and the bare earth was all there was to tread upon.
Upstairs the flooring consisted merely of planks laid down; and you
could hear when below the pins dropped from above, unless, indeed,
they fell, as they generally did, into the large crevices. The bonne's
_mansarde_ was but a garret, where, till you got into the very middle,
you could not stand upright; and although the tiled roof had been just
painted and repaired, the breath of heaven came wooingly in every
direction, even through the thick-leaved vines which covered it,
closely trained up there, to make room for the apricots that grew
against the wall below. Close by, a little stair led you out upon a
terrace, where a road, bordered by peach-trees and backed by plums,
gave a dry walk in all weathers; but you could go higher, higher, and
higher still, terrace after terrace, till it terminated in a rock
covered with briers and brambles--the fruit of which latter were as
large and as good as mulberries. This we called our garden-wall, and
it had a sunny seat commanding an extensive view, and from which all
we saw was beautiful. How often have I sat there dreaming, lulled by
the murmur of the insect world around, till the merry fife of a band
of conscripts on their march, or the distant boom of a cannon from the
forts, restored me to a consciousness that I was still at least _in_
the world, although not _of_ it.
But now I am going to descend to figures, and can assure my
incredulous English readers, that what I relate is strictly
true--_vraie_, although not _vraisemblable_. We hired a stout girl to
weed and wash, without food, at 2-1/2 d. a day; and another for L.5
per annum undertook to be our sole servant--to clean, and cook, and
dress madame, only stipulating that she was to have _soupe à la
graisse_ and brown bread _à discrétion_ three times a day, two sous
for cider, her aprons, and washing; but hoped if she gave
satisfaction, that sometimes upon Sunday she might be allowed a bit of
meat: on Fridays an egg and an apple contented her, and an occasional
fish made her shout with joy. An old soldier, who had returned to his
primitive employment of gardener, and lived near, undertook to dig,
prune, and plant in the garden for a franc a day, during the time we
ourselves were engaged with the inside of our mansion, and to come
afterwards at 2d. an hour when we wanted him, either to go to C---- for
marketing, or to do anything else we required, for the hamlet of
Flotte did not possess many shops. At this hamlet, however, we
obtained bread and a variety of small articles on very moderate terms.
Having hired the requisite furniture, and papered the walls of our
apartments, the humble tenement looked clean and comfortable. To get
all into order, we both worked hard, and very soon could sit down by
'our own fireside' in a quiet, cheerful house, almost the work of our
own hands, and therefore every creek and cranny in it full of
interest. Mme de Terelcourt, with refined politeness, did not attempt
to visit us herself until she understood we could receive her _sans
géne_; but she sent fruit and vegetables, and kind messages
constantly, and at last a note intimating that she would, if
convenient, call upon us after church next day. Strawberries and
cream, butter, eggs, fresh bread, and the commonest _vin ordinaire_,
were easily procured, of which our guest ate heartily, saying she
would bring the rest of the family next day to partake of a similar
feast. They came accordingly, and with them a cart loaded with shrubs,
plants, flowers, and a whole hive of honeycomb, and various little
comforts besides, pretending that they were thankful to us for
receiving their superabundance, instead of obliging them to throw it
away. This hospitable, unaffected kindness continued unabated the
whole time of our stay, and the kind beings always contrived to make
out that they were the obliged persons, and we so polite and
condescending for deigning to receive such trifles. M. and Mme de
Terelcourt lived with M. le Marquis de Flotte and his wife; and her
brother, the Count de Belgravin, occupied a house a quarter of a mile
distant, which, although by no means a comfortable residence, he
rented purposely to be near his sister. These amiable people spent a
part of every day together, for they did not associate much with the
inhabitants of C----; and I look back with much pleasure to our social
evenings, when light-hearted merriment constantly prevailed; and I
often thought how few of the many who talk so gravely of patience and
resignation to the will of God, could or would understand that
cheerfulness is, in fact, but a different way of shewing that
resignation.
Our maid, Batilde, knew nothing about the _cuisine_ beyond a good
_roux_ and a bad omelet; and except making a bed, appeared ignorant of
all housework--even washing, dusting, or sweeping thoroughly. She,
however, did everything we did not do for ourselves, and ironed the
linen after a fashion. Tonette washed for us in the little river
aforesaid, where she used an incredible quantity of soap, thumping our
things with a piece of flat wood upon a great stone, most
conveniently, as she observed, placed there for the purpose 'by the
saints in heaven;' which method, if it hastened its wearing out, made
our linen at least sweet and clean while it lasted. My husband shot
and cultivated the garden in the respective seasons appropriate to
these occupations, whilst I bought a cookery-book called 'Les
Expériences de Mademoiselle Marguerite;' and pretending to be learning
myself, taught Batilde to prepare our food a little better, without
hurting her self-conceit, of which she possessed more than the average
of her countrywomen. Our time, therefore, was fully occupied. Our
health improved and our spirits rose with the excitement; we had
agreeable society in the excellent people named above, meeting _sans
façon_, taking breakfast or luncheon with each other, instead of
dinners, in winter, and in summer often spending the evening at one
another's houses.
At a distance not insurmountable there was an English chapel; but the
character of the clergyman was not of a kind to recommend itself to
persons who had some regard for the decencies of life; and so we
contented ourselves with saying our prayers at home. The old curé of
the place, with whom we became slightly acquainted, seemed to be a
worthy sort of man, liberal in his ideas, and possessed of a
considerable taste for music. He made rather an agreeable and obliging
neighbour.
Talking of curés, I may mention that one came from a distance of
several miles to pay his respects to us, and offer welcome to France.
He said, he desired to make our acquaintance because we came from
England, where he had found 'rest for twenty years, and received much
kindness.' He was a rich man, had a pretty little church, a
picturesque house in a sort of park, which he had stocked with pigs
instead of sheep; and every day that was not one of fasting or
abstinence, he had pork for dinner. He took a great fancy to us, and
wanted us to give up our cottage, and come and live with him, as he
had plenty of room and desired society; but we declined. Had we done
so, I doubt not that he would have left us his money, for he had no
relations, and bequeathed the whole, for want of an heir, to his
grocer. He grew cooler after our refusal, but still sometimes came to
see us on a pot-bellied cart-horse--a most stolid-looking beast, but
one which often took most laughably strange fits of friskiness. Once I
saw the good curé's watch jump out of his pocket, fly over his head,
and disappear amid a heap of nettles, where little Victor found it,
and hoped for a rich reward; but he only received an old book of
devotion, and a lecture on the duty of reading it.
I must relate a little adventure which might have been written fifty
years ago, when it would have obtained more credence than it will in
the present day, from those travellers at least who have kept to the
highways, and those residents who have lived only in the towns of
France. One morning Batilde asked permission to visit a friend who had
come to spend a day with her sister at C----. 'They breed poultry; and
as madame likes a goose as soon as the fête of St Michel comes, it
would be worth her while to desire Mère Talbot to feed one up against
that time. They live a good way off,' pursued she, 'in a poor hamlet
called Les Briares. It would be almost worth madame's while to go
there some day, for it is such a primitive place, and they are such
primitive people.' I liked the idea, and begged Mère Talbot might be
told that I would come and look out my goose for myself the following
week.
A fine Thursday morning dawned; and as early as we could get coffee
made and taken, Batilde and I set out on our expedition, each, after
the fashion of the canton, seated on a donkey, our feet in one pannier
and a large stone to balance in the other. I took as an offering to
the hope and heir of the Talbots a toy much like what we in England
call Jack-in-a-box, but in France is termed a _Diable_, as it is
intended to represent his Satanic majesty, and alarm the lifter of the
lid by popping up a black visage. The rough roads shaded by high
hedges, white and pink with hawthorn, and the wild apple-tree blossom,
and redolent of early honeysuckle, reminded me of the secluded parts
of England; while Scotland presented itself to my mind when we left
these lanes and crossed still, rushy brooks, or dashing tiny torrents,
climbed heather braes, pursuing the yellow-hammer and large
mountain-bees as they flew on to the furze and broom-bushes, filling
the air with their cheerful music; or when, again, we descended to
birch-shaded hollows, refreshing ourselves from clear little
spring-wells, that sparkled over white pebbles at the foot of a gray
rock tufted over with blaeberry and foxglove leaves. The poor thing
chatted away like a child, inspired by the pure air, bracing, yet
mild, and lost herself amongst recollections of her country home,
talking of buttercups, hedge-sparrows' eggs, and _demoiselles_ or
dragon-flies.
Several happy hours we spent _en route_; and at last, on turning down
from a hilly road, we saw on a flat brown plain a collection of low
cottages. The nearer we approached, the more Scotch everything
appeared; in some cases I even saw my dear native 'middens afore the
door:' the aspect of the houses and looks of the old women especially,
with their stoups and country caps--so very like mutches--striped
petticoats and short-gowns, brought northern climes before me vividly;
and the children stared and shouted like true Scots callants. The very
accent was so Scotch that I felt as though I was doing something
altogether ridiculous in talking French.
Upon entering Mère Talbot's house, the resemblance became more real.
The flags stuck here and there in the earthen floor, the form of the
chairs and tables, the press-beds, large red-checked linen curtains,
the 'rock and its wee pickle tow,' the reel, the bowls on the
shelves--each and all recalled my native country; and I positively
should have ended by believing myself there in a dream, if not in
reality, had not a glance at the fireplace undeceived me: there was no
fire--all was dim, dusky, and dark; no glowing embers and cheerful
pipe-clayed hearth, but iron dogs and wood-ashes where blazing coals
should be. Even here, however, I could not but think of 'Caledonia
stern and wild,' for there stood a real Carron 'three-leggit pat,' to
which my very heart warmed. I was asked to sit down; and soon the news
spread that _une Anglaise_ was to be seen at Mère Talbot's, and people
glanced by the window, peeped in at the door, and came to speak upon
one pretence or other, as if it was not an everyday sight. By and by a
girl and man--whose names from their appearance might have been Jenny
and Sawnie--arrived for their dinner--consisting of brown bread, an
apple, and cider, which they discussed on their knees--not sitting
down at the table--and when finished, returned to their field-labour
without speaking. The little boy, meanwhile, had disappeared with his
toy-box, which greatly delighted him, and elevated him for the nonce
above his fellows; for he was the undisputed possessor of a curiosity
imported from England itself, over the sea, by the very lady who was
to be seen at his grandmother's house eating pancakes.
The fire was lighted; it crackled and blazed in two minutes; a stand
was placed over it, upon which they put what they called a _tuile_;
eggs, flour, and milk were mixed, and a bit of butter, the size of a
bean in the first instance, of a pea afterwards--_c'est de rigueur_,
to hinder every fresh _crêpe_ thrown in from burning. Most capital
pancakes they were; thin, crisp, hot, and sweet; and the kind people
pressed them upon me so hospitably, that I ate till I felt I really
could eat no longer, and was glad to finish with a draught of sour
cider. I bought seven geese, to be brought to me one at a time, as
_fat as caterpillars_, for two francs ten sous each. Mère Talbot was
content with her bargain, and so was I with mine. When I rose to take
leave, I was reminded again of Scotland, for a large parcel of cakes
was put into the off-pannier; and as I should have mortally offended
the kind creatures by refusing their gift, I carried them home,
toasted them on a fork, and found it made them eat quite as crisp and
good as at first. This sketch may appear perhaps very odd to be taken
from nature so late as the year 1840, but I can assure my readers it
is 'no less strange than true.'
All the summer we wandered about the woods and fields of Flotte,
making little excursions in the neighbourhood, and sedulously avoiding
the town; but after we had made ourselves acquainted with every
beech-shaded hollow, every little fig-forest, every apple-orchard,
climbed every broomy knowe, gathered heather from the highest rock and
mushrooms from the oldest pasture, we turned our steps sometimes
towards C---- in search of variety. There, every Thursday, the military
band of the 44th Regiment played in the alley of the mountain-ash, and
there all the dames and demoiselles assembled, dressed in a
wonderfully neat way. We asked how these women, who were mostly in
humble circumstances, were enabled to dress so finely. Batilde
explained the phenomenon.
'Ah! they have infinite merit,' responded the Frenchwoman; 'two of
them, whom I chance to know, in order to be enabled to do so, live on
eggs and bread, in one room, where they sit, eat, and sleep, nay,
sometimes cook; and they have their just reward, for they are
universally admired and respected.'
This is a pretty fair specimen of the effort made by Frenchwomen of
the humbler orders to maintain a tasteful exterior. To make themselves
neat is a principle; and they seem to have an inherent perception of
what constitutes taste. They may sometimes go too far in this
direction, and think more of dress and ornaments than they should do.
One can at least say, that they are on the safe side. Better to love
outward show, than, as is often visible in Scotland, have no regard
for appearances. Better cleanliness on any terms than utter
slovenliness. I really must say, we saw some most creditable efforts
in France to maintain self-respect, among the female population.
About this time, an old gentleman, who was distantly related to
us, died--without having, however, an idea of the extent of
our poverty--leaving my husband L.50 for a ring. Here was
riches--unexpected riches! and I verily believe few who succeed to
L.50,000 ever felt more or as much rapture as we did; and we spent an
evening very happily settling how we should employ the money. In the
first place, we hired a good servant for L.8! and dismissed Batilde;
we then, by paying half, induced the landlord to lath, plaster, paper,
and paint the large lumber-room, and open a door of communication into
the passage, by which we avoided entering through the kitchen. Our
late sitting-room we dined in, and made the dining-room a
dressing-room; got several small comforts besides; and though last not
least, hired an old piano; and every evening enjoyed music in a degree
none but real lovers of that delightful art, long deprived of it, can
have the slightest conception of--and all this happiness and comfort
for L.50! Think of that, ye ladies who give as much for a gown!
Our new servant, Olive, was as clean, orderly, and active as our late
one had been the reverse. The difference it made in our comfort was as
great as if we had had our former establishment restored, and really
our _bonne_ was a host within herself. The house was always clean, but
we never saw her cleaning: she went to market, baked all our bread,
yet never seemed oppressed with work: her cookery was capital; she
made excellent dishes out of what Batilde would have wasted: went to
mass every morning, and was back in time to prepare everything for our
breakfast. After staying a month, she begged permission to leave the
cockloft and bring her 'effects' to the gate-house, which we willingly
permitted; and her wardrobe was worth a journey to see, when we
remembered that her wages had never been quite L.8 until she came to
us, and her age only thirty. I shall give the list I copied, hoping
some of our English Betties may read and profit by her example:
twenty-four good strong linen shifts, made and marked neatly by
herself; two dozen worsted and thread stockings, knit by herself;
twelve pocket-handkerchiefs; six stout petticoats; four flannel do.;
six pair of shoes; eight caps; eight neck-frills; umbrella;
prayer-book; gold earrings and cross--which two last, with a beautiful
lace-cap, she inherited, but everything else was of her _own earning_.
She bought a wardrobe and bedstead, and was by degrees getting
furniture; and as I exacted no sewing, every leisure moment she was
spinning her future sheets. With all this she was also very kind to a
married sister, who had a large family; but she wore no flowers,
flounces, nor finery; her six gowns were of a stuff the Scotch call
linsey-woolsey; and so in sixteen years' services she had amassed what
I have just described. Why can't our girls do as much where wages are
higher and clothes cheaper?
We spent three years in this happy solitude, and felt almost sorry
when an unexpected legacy, and the settlement of our affairs together,
enabled us to return to all the comforts and many of the luxuries of
life. It gives me much pleasure to record the many kindnesses we
received from all ranks of people. Upon one occasion we were forced to
ask the butcher to wait three months longer for his bill: he not only
consented, but his wife insisted upon lending us money, and was quite
cross when we gratefully declined her kindness. Near the time of our
departure, as we were paying a large account, the shopkeeper said: 'At
this time you must have many calls upon you; transmit me the amount
from England, for I can afford to wait.' Another of our tradesmen, a
shoemaker, was a most singular character--a great physiognomist, and
would not serve those he did not like. A dashing English family wished
to employ him, but he fought shy, and made himself so disagreeable
that they went to another: he told me this before his wife, who seemed
annoyed at his conduct. He explained that he did not like their
appearance, and was sure they would not pay for what they had. He was
right; they left the place in debt to his _confrère_ and everybody
else. I rejoice in this opportunity of assuring my countrymen that
there is as much true kindness to be met with in France as in England,
and the selfishness we complain of in our neighbours on the other side
of the Channel, is often but a preconceived fancy, or induced by our
own cold behaviour. The above true sketch shews at least that _we_ met
with substantial kindness, and I hope it also proves that we are
sensible of it.