cross-roads_, G. C. 46 _leading to =Morsains= (56 km.). Arrived at the
latter, turn to the right beyond the church. This road is the_ G.C.
47. _Cross through the village, and before arriving at Perthuis, turn
to the left at the cross-roads. At Perthuis (58 km.) turn to the right,
and, traverse the locality, turning again to the right on leaving it._
We thus leave the theatre of operations of the First French Corps and
enter that of the Tenth Corps. On the right of the horizon may be seen
the Forest du Gault, on the borders of which the Tenth Corps engaged
furious combats with the Tenth German (Reserve) Corps.
[Illustration: GRAVE IN A SAND-PIT]
_On reaching =La Rue-le-Comte= (59½ km.) traverse it throughout, as
also a level-crossing, in order to arrive at =Le Gault-la-Forêt=
(60½ km.). Pass through it._ Several of its houses were burnt by the
Germans, who also shot the old rural policeman.
[Illustration: BATTLEFIELD OF CHARLEVILLE]
_At the cross roads at the end of the village, turn to the right, then
immediately afterwards to the left, going round the church. After
reaching the hamlet of_ =Le Recoude= (63 km.), the western portion of
which was damaged by bombardment, _turn to the left on entering and
traverse the village from one end to the other_.
[Illustration: CHARLEVILLE CHURCH]
During the morning, on September 6, the left of the Tenth French
Corps, after penetrating the Forest du Gault, reached the road which
the tourist has been following between La Rue-le-Comte and Le Recoude.
In the afternoon it was obliged to retire into the forest, but on the
following day it attacked again, took numerous prisoners in the forest,
and carried the line which it had occupied the day before. It was from
this line that it set off on the 8th to continue its advance to the
north-east. G. C. 47 _continues in the direction of Charleville. Before
entering the village, stop the car at the mile-stone "6 km. 2," 20
yards before arriving at the first isolated house._
_Take on foot the path on the left, which leads_ to the grave seen in
the photograph on p. 155, and which is about 150 yards distant. This
grave made in a sand-pit contains the bodies of 180 officers and men
who fell in the engagements at Charleville. 50 _yards further on_ may
be seen from the path and to the left, the view shown in the photograph
on p. 155.
[Illustration: CHARLEVILLE CHURCH]
The French occupied a trench dug under the line of trees seen on
the left; the Germans were installed on the hills which shut in the
horizon. It was only on September 8, after three days' fighting, that
the 20th Division was able to dislodge the enemy from these slopes.
_Return to the car and enter_ =Charleville= (66½ km.). The church, seen
in the photographs on p. 155 and opposite, was much damaged by the
German bombardment. _Walk round it, then enter._
Although the neighbouring villages of La Villeneuve and Le Recoude
changed hands several times, Charleville, which had been taken on the
6th by the 20th Division, remained in the possession of the French. The
fighting was extremely fierce all round the village, and particularly
on the spot indicated above where the 2nd Infantry Regiment
distinguished itself.
_Continue to follow G. C. 47, leaving on the right the road which leads
through the village. At the next cross-roads bear to the right and
continue until =La Villeneuve= (68½ km.) is reached_.
Numerous houses were destroyed by the French and German bombardments.
The church, as may be seen in the photograph below, is in ruins. La
Villeneuve was where the Fifth and Ninth French Armies joined. It was
occupied by the 42nd Division on the evening of September 5. On the
6th it passed from hand to hand: lost at 8 a.m., retaken at 9 a.m.;
lost again towards midday, and finally re-conquered at nightfall by the
French.
[Illustration: LA VILLENEUVE CHURCH]
On the 7th the struggle was equally obstinate and violent. La
Villeneuve was again taken and retaken. It was only on the 8th that
the 42nd Division succeeded in breaking the German resistance, and
advanced northwards. The principal obstacle had been a howitzer battery
installed beyond the Morin, near Le Thoult (5 km. from La Villeneuve.)
It rained shells on this locality and also prevented the Tenth Corps
from advancing from Charleville.
This battery was marked down, thanks to the knowledge of the country
possessed by the "curé" of La Villeneuve, l'Abbé Laplaige. From
an attic window he discovered, by means of field-glasses, the spot
from which the shots were fired, and pointed it out to the officer
commanding the French batteries. The Germans were soon reduced to
silence, and progress became possible for the 42nd Division at La
Villeneuve and the Tenth Corps at Charleville.
[Illustration: WINDMILL WATER-PUMP AT LA VILLENEUVE]
_Near the middle of the village, take on the left, skirting the
drinking-pond, the "Chemin vicinal" leading to Corfélix and Le
Thoult._ The windmill pump, seen in the photograph above, will soon
be perceived, near a group of ruined houses. It was from the upper
platform of the pump that the officer commanding the French artillery,
guided by the Abbé Laplaige, directed the fire which destroyed the
German battery at Le Thoult, The rising ground of the left bank of
the Morin, which attains a height of 670 ft. directly north of La
Villeneuve, hid the whereabouts of the German guns on the right bank on
Hill 189. The elevated structure of the pump made an ideal observatory
and compensated for the height of the ground on the left bank of the
river.
_Return by the same path to the drinking-pond and take, on the left_,
G. C. 47, _leading to Chapton_. On the right of the road are the woods
of Bois-de-la-Ville, on the left those of La Braule. The troops of
the 42nd Division fought desperate engagements in these woods during
the alternatives of retreat and advance from September 6 to 8. _Pass
through_ +Chapton+ (_72½ km._), which marked the utmost limit of the
direct German advance on Sézanne.
[Illustration: SÉZANNE CHURCH]
_Shortly afterwards, on arriving at the main road_ (N. 51), _turn to
the right and descend into Sézanne_, which suddenly comes into view at
the foot of the hill, and makes a pretty picture. It was to attain this
edge of the plateau, which commands a wide horizon, that the Germans
made such desperate efforts on either side of N. 51, efforts which
were, however, rendered vain by the admirable resistance of the 42nd
Division.
_Enter Sézanne (80 km.) by the Rue d'Épernay, then turn to the right
into the Rue de la Halle leading to the Place de la République._ Here
is the church (view opposite). _From thence we seek out the hotel where
we intend to dine and sleep (see plan, p. 158)._
SÉZANNE
VISIT TO THE TOWN
The most interesting sight is the church (historical monument), a view
of which is given on p. 157. It dates from the fifteenth and sixteenth
centuries. To visit the interior, enter by the little door opening on
to the Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville, and opposite an old well enclosed
within a wrought-iron railing.
The stone reredos, against the wall on the left on entering, is
worthy of note. An interesting walk is to follow the line of the
ancient fortifications now changed into a public promenade. The most
interesting part is the "Mail des Cordeliers" to the north.
[Illustration: SÉZANNE]
THE MARSHES OF SAINT-GOND
=TOUR IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF SÉZANNE= (65 km.)
via +Broyes+, +Allemant+, +Broussy+, +Bannes+, +Coizard+, +Congy+,
+Champaubert+, +Baye+, +Saint-Prix+, +Oyes+, +Reuves+, +Mondement+.
[Illustration: CHÂTEAU DES PUCELLES]
_This part of the tour should be done in the morning, for the region
of the marshes is devoid of hotels, even of inns, and, tourists
must therefore return to Sézanne for lunch. After lunch, we set out
for Fère-Champenoise, ascend the valley of the Somme, to arrive at
Châlons-sur-Marne for dinner and bed._
_Leaving the hotel, re-cross the Place de la République and take on the
left the Rue de la Halle, continued by the Rue de Broyes. The latter
turns suddenly to the left (the street which continues in the former
direction is the Rue de Châlons). The road_ (G. C. 39) _skirts the
cemetery and mounts towards =Broyes=, through which we pass, leaving
the church on the left (5½ km.). On a level with the church, take the
street on the right, and 300 yards further on we encounter the old
"Castle des Pucelles," seen in the photograph above._
General Humbert, commanding the Moroccan Division, established his
headquarters in this castle on September 7, Mondement Castle having
become uninhabitable. It was from here, when Mondement had been taken
by the Germans, that he directed the counter-attacks which drove them
from it. The "Castle des Pucelles" is perched on the edge of the
plateau dominating almost vertically the immense plain of the Aube.
Mondement is only 3½ km. distant. One can easily realise how tragic was
the situation during the days of September 8 and 9, 1914, of the troops
standing at bay at Broyes, and understand the savage fury with which
they attacked Mondement.
_Quitting the "Castle des Pucelles," continue straight along_ G. C.
39, _leaving on the left the "Chemin vicinal" leading to Mondement (we
shall follow it in the opposite direction on our return)_.
_Traverse =Allemant Woods= and the village of that name, through which
we pass, leaving the church (9 km.) on the right_. From its steeple in
1814 Napoléon watched the battle which was raging in the plain below.
_After the first group of houses comes a fork in the road; the one on
the right descends into the plain, that on the left goes towards the
marshes of Saint-Gond._
_Before taking the latter, turn to the right on the crest for a few
steps in order to contemplate in its entirety the beautiful view
reproduced in the_ panoramas on pp. 160 to 163.
[Illustration:
Allemant
Broyes Church-Tower
Allemant Church-Tower
I. +PANORAMA OF ALLEMANT+
This part of
the panorama
fits on to
the right of
panorama II (p.
161).]
The plain which stretches at our feet, as far as the eye can reach,
right up to the Aube, and of which the panoramas on pages 160 to 163
give a good idea, was the stake in the battle which for five days
engaged the army of Foch and those of Von Bulow and Von Hausen. The
heights whose crest we have been following since leaving Sézanne
assured its control. From there the Germans with their powerful
artillery would have been able to destroy the French Corps which had
withdrawn to the plain. They would also have been able to manœuvre
freely in order to fall on the rear of the army of Espérey on the west,
and that of Langle de Cary on the east. The whole plan of the battle of
the Marne would have collapsed. The nature of the ground permits us to
understand the particular violence of the struggle at this point: the
Germans ready to sacrifice everything in order to attain the heights,
the French disputing fiercely every inch of the ground.
[Illustration:
N. 34 between Fère and Sézanne
N. 34 between Fère and Sézanne
Allemant
Péas
II. +PANORAMA OF THE PLAIN OF THE AUBE.+
This part of the
panorama fits on
to the left of
panorama I (p.
160).]
[Illustration:
Mont Chalmont
N. 34 between
Fère and Sézanne
Linthes
Pleurs
Linthelles
N. 34 between Fère and Sézanne
Saint-Loup
III. +PANORAMA OF THE PLAIN OF FÈRE-CHAMPENOISE.+
This part of the
panorama fits on
to the left of
panorama II (page
160).]
While attacking the height on its front, from the south bank of the
Marshes (see the panorama on pages 182-183), the Germans also tried to
outflank it on the east.
We have seen in the general account of the battle how prodigious were
their efforts to cross the Somme, which formed a covering line, and
then to debouch from Fère-Champenoise. This locality is hidden behind
Mont Chalmont, on the left of the panorama above. This manœuvre very
nearly succeeded. During the day of September 9, the soldiers occupying
the promontory, where stands the tourist, saw to the north in the
direction of the Marshes, the advancing Germans arrive within firing
distance of the farthest trench. If they turned their eyes eastwards,
they saw the 17th Division falling back on Mont Chalmont (panorama
above) and the artillery take up its position on the western slope.
Further south, debouching from the screen formed by this ridge, the
firing line came into view spreading towards Linthes and Pleurs. The
terrible anxiety of these hours of waiting only ceased when the 42nd
Division came into action.
The fine strategic movement of the 42nd (_see p. 14_) is easy to
follow. The Division gained the plain from the plateau north of Sézanne
which we traversed yesterday. The infantry descended the slopes of
Broyes and Allemant. The military wagons followed the N. 34 and the
railway which skirts this road. The batteries stopped on the way at
Broyes, in order to take part in the bombardment of Mondement Castle.
The division formed up between Linthes, Linthelles and Pleurs, and it
was from this point that it began its attack. The tourist may picture
to himself these red and blue columns marching eastwards under a
violent artillery fire, and causing the German troops, bewildered by
the arrival of these unexpected French reinforcements, to disappear
again behind the ridge. The villages of Péas (panorama II) and
Saint-Loup (panorama III) served as shelters for the reserves of the
Ninth Corps. Much-tried companies withdrew there to reform. It was
from Saint-Loup that the 77th Infantry Regiment started forth to take
Mondement. Leaving their dinner which was warming, these gallant
fellows stormed the slopes of Allemant and of Broyes in order to take
in this action the heroic part explained on p. 117.
_Rejoin_ G. C. 39. _The long dike of the marshes of Saint-Gond becomes
visible almost immediately._ From this distance nothing indicates the
marshes, whose reeds are lost to view among the crops; one can only
distinguish the line of the Petit Morin, marked by poplar trees, which
traverses the depression from one end to the other.
After passing a small group of houses, take, at the cross-roads, the
road on the left descending towards the marshes. We can perceive
Mont-Août first in front, then to the right. This solitary little hill
played an important part in the battle. There, until September 9, the
17th Division resisted all attacks from the north and from the east.
_Follow_ G. C. 39, _and arriving at =Broussy-le-Grand= (16 km.), pass
through it._ Held first by the Moroccan Division, Broussy was carried
by the Germans after a fierce struggle. The French troops were thrown
back on the slopes of Allemant which we have just descended. There are
still many ruined houses in Broussy.
_The road now turns towards =Bannes= (19 km.)._ Across the plain which
stretches south and east of Bannes, the 17th and 52nd Divisions fought
desperate engagements to prevent the Germans from breaking through the
marshes. On the 8th, the French front, which followed the boundary
of the marshes from east to west, was pushed back with violence. The
left remained in the neighbourhood of Bannes, but the centre drew back
to Mont-Août, and the right to the south of this hill. On the 9th,
Mont-Août fell in its turn. Between Bannes and Mont-Août, in a trench,
numerous letters and telegrams and a box bearing the address of Prince
Eitel, son of Wilheim II., were found.
Many new roofs are to be seen in Bannes, a proof of the violence of the
bombardment.
_At the cross-roads at the entrance to the village, turn to the left
towards the Marshes and Coizard, to which_ G. C. 43 _leads us_.
[Illustration: VIEW OF THE MARSHES]
The above photograph gives an aspect of this marshy region. The line
of poplars crossing it follows the course of the Morin. The heights
on the horizon are those of Toulon-la-Montagne and Vert-la-Gravelle.
They were occupied on September 6 by the outposts of the 17th Division,
who, however, could not hold them. The Germans then installed batteries
there which swept all the south-east portion of the marshes. In spite
of this fact, on the same day a battalion of the 77th Line Regiment
tried to retake the heights.
We are now following the course of the attacking troops who left Bannes
under a murderous fire from the heavy artillery and machine-guns. When
the road became too dangerous, they entered the marshes and advanced
painfully up to their waists in water. Some disappeared suddenly,
swallowed up by the bogs. They succeeded eventually in reaching Coizard
and, after fighting in the streets and houses, drove off the Germans,
and began to assail the slopes which dominate the village. But the
enemy had here a crushing superiority, and after a seven-hours' fight
the French were obliged to retire across the marshes, pursued by the
dropping fire of the batteries on the northern bank which raked the
narrow causeways. The Germans wished to push home their advantage and
take foot on the southern bank, and accordingly began to cross the
marshes by the Coizard-Bannes road. Their losses were heavy, for the
machine-guns and "75's" directed a cross-fire on them. They came on
nevertheless and reached Bannes, but when they endeavoured to advance
on Mont-Août, they were met by so fierce a fire that they were obliged
to draw back into the village. Mont-Août did not fall until September
9, having been outflanked on the south.
[Illustration: DESTROYED BRIDGE OVER THE MORIN]
Cross the Morin, whose bridge was destroyed at the beginning of the
battle (photograph opposite), then leaving the soft ground of the
marshes, cross one of the drained parts whose number increases every
year; thus reducing considerably the original swamp which comprised all
the hollow.
[Illustration: COIZARD CHURCH]
_On reaching =Coizard=, turn first to the left, then to the right in
order to arrive at the church (24 km.)._
The villages on the north of the marshes suffered less than those on
the south, for the French bombardment was less intense than the German.
A few houses were however destroyed in Coizard (view above).
_Turn to the left this side of the church (the road, is visible in the
above photograph) and continue to follow_ G. C. 43 _for 1 km. as far
as =Joches=. At the corner of the farm_, of which the view below shows
the interior, and which was burnt by the Germans, _turn to the right
towards Congy, thus leaving the marshes_.
(_If pressed for time, instead of turning to the right, continue on the
road, along the marshes by Courjeonnet and Villevenard, thus reaching
Saint-Prix. The distance by the direct road is about 6 km.; going round
by Congy it is 16 km._).
_In =Congy= (30 km.) follow the main street, turning to the right
before reaching the town-hall, then to the left to cross the railway._
On September 5 and 6 the Ninth Corps, who still had outposts at Toulon
and at Vert, tried to extend its line towards Congy. Blondlat's Brigade
of the Moroccan Division crossed to the north bank and attempted to
gain Congy by Joches and Courjeonnet. The difficulties were great, for
the German artillery swept the slopes. The attack failed in the end and
the brigade was obliged to re-cross the marshes. During the battle the
German heavy guns on the heights commanding Congy pounded the French
positions on the opposite side of the marshes.
_About 2 km. beyond Congy we meet the "Route nationale" 33 and turn
into it, to the left, towards =Champaubert=, which is 2.7 km. further
on._
[Illustration: BURNT FARM AT JOCHES]
On the left is the column commemorating Napoléon's victory in 1814.
Champaubert Farm where he slept is a grey house with red-brick facings
standing opposite the column on N. 33.
_On arriving at the column, turn to the left into N. 51, in the
direction of Baye._
[Illustration: BAYE CHURCH]
In Baye (37½ km.) on the left is to be seen the interesting thirteenth
century church, which has recently been restored (photograph opposite),
900 _yards further on is the castle, of which a view is given below_.
It was the birthplace of Marion Delorme, who there passed a tranquil
childhood before becoming acquainted with the feverish life of the
courtesan.
The castle is the property of the Baron de Baye, and contained many
rich archæological and artistic treasures. It was inhabited by a member
of the German Imperial family from September 5 to 9, and was pillaged
methodically.
The following is the report of the Inquiry Commission:
_"Having repaired to Baye Castle, we verified the traces of the pillage
which this edifice has suffered. On the first floor, a door leading
to a room which adjoins the gallery where the proprietor had amassed
valuable works of art had been broken in; four glass cases had been
broken, another opened. According to the declarations of the caretaker,
who, in her master's absence, was not able to inform us of the full
extent of the damage, the principal objects stolen were Russian gems
and gold medals. We noticed that tablets covered with black velvet,
belonging doubtless to the glass cases, had been dismantled of part of
the jewels which they formerly bore._
_"The Baron of Baye's room was in a state of great disorder. Numerous
objects were strewn about on the floor and in drawers which had been
left open. A flat-topped secrétaire had been broken into. A Louis XVI.
'commode' and round-topped desk of the same period had been rifled.
This room was doubtless occupied by a person of high rank, for on the
floor still remained chalked the following inscription: 'I. K. Hoheit.'
Nobody could tell us exactly who was this 'Highness,' but a general who
lodged in the house of M. Houillier, one of the town councillors, told
his host that the castle had sheltered the Duke of Brunswick (William
II.'s son-in law) and the staff of the Tenth Corps."_
[Illustration: BAYE CASTLE]
N. 51 now descends into the valley of the Petit Morin. From September
5 to 9, the German reserves followed closely on each other along this
road, hastening to the attack on the Plateau of Sézanne.
_After having passed the little station of Talus-Saint-Prix, we arrive
at the bridge over the Morin._
[Illustration: THE MORIN NEAR THE MARSHES]
This bridge, forming the narrow bottle-neck in which the German attack
was to be precipitated, constitutes one of the most interesting points
of the battlefield. It is here that the marshes come to an end, and the
Morin continues its course along a gradually narrowing valley. The view
above, taken from the bridge eastwards, shows the river leaving the
marshes. The tree stump in the foreground, which has now disappeared,
recalls the successive bombardments, French and German, which the
bridge experienced. The other view is taken westwards.
From the heights which form the background of the two photographs, the
German cannon rained shells on the French positions on the southern
edge of the marshes.
[Illustration:
Road from Corfélix
Talus-Saint-Prix
THE MORIN LEAVING THE MARSHES]
[Illustration:
Crête du Poirier
The Chapel of Saint-Prix
THE HEIGHTS OF SAINT-PRIX (to the west of the road)]
The heights of Saint-Prix form the northern edge of the Plateau of
Sézanne, on which depended the liaison between the Fifth and Ninth
French Armies. The Germans had bitten into the plateau on the west and
on the north-west at Esternay, Charleville, and La Villeneuve, which we
have already visited. They tried to complete their success by attacking
also on the point now before us.
On the left of the road (view above) may be seen the little Chapel of
Saint-Prix, below Botrait Woods. On the bare part of the summit are the
remains of the trenches in which the Germans had placed machine-guns.
Further to the left is the "Crête du Poirier" which was so bitterly
disputed. To the right of the road (view below) appear the woods of the
Grandes-Garennes which clothe the heights towards Corfélix.
[Illustration:
Woods of Grandes-Garennes
Valley of the Morin towards Corfélix
Petit Morin
THE HEIGHTS OF SAINT-PRIX (to the east of the road)]
[Illustration: CHAPEL AT SAINT-PRIX.]