_Kämpfer’s Two Journeys to Court—Preparations—Presents—Japanese
Attendants—Packing the Baggage and Riding on Horseback—Japanese Love
of Botany—Accoutrements—Road-Books—Norimono and Kago—A. D. 1690-1692._
Mention has already been made of the custom established in Japan, that
all the governors of imperial cities and of provinces, and, indeed,
all the _Daimiō_ and _Shōmiō_—that is, nobles of the first and second
rank—should, once a year, make a journey to court; those of the first
rank to pay their respects and make presents to the emperor in person,
and those of the second rank to salute his chief ministers, assembled
in council.
In this respect the director of the Dutch trade is placed on the
same footing with the superior nobility, and his journey to court,
accompanied by a physician, a secretary or two, and a flock of Japanese
attendants of various ranks, affords the Dutch the only opportunity
they have of knowing anything by their own personal observation, beyond
the vicinage of Nagasaki.
[Illustration: TRANSPORTATION METHODS: A BUDDHIST PRIEST IN A NORIMONO;
ANCIENT IMPERIAL CARRIAGES; LADY IN A KAGO]
Kämpfer made this journey twice—the first time in 1691, and again in
1692—and, notwithstanding the strict surveillance under which the Dutch
are kept, his observations were highly curious. Besides a journal of
his daily route, he gives a general summary of all that he observed,
containing a great deal of curious information, the most interesting
part of which is copied in this and the following chapters, nearly in
his own words:
“The first thing to be done, is to look out proper presents for his
imperial majesty, for his privy councillors, and some other great
officers at Yedo, Miyako, and Ōsaka, the whole amounting, as near
as possible, to a certain sum, to assort them, and particularly to
assign to whom they are to be delivered. Afterwards they must be put
up into leather bags, which are carefully wrapped up in mats, in order
to preserve them from all accidents in so long a journey; and, for a
further security, several seals are affixed to them.
“It is the business of the governors of Nagasaki to judge and determine
what might prove acceptable to the court. They take out of the goods
laid up in our warehouse what they think proper, and give instructions
to the departing director about such things as should be sent over from
Batavia the next year. Sometimes some of their own goods they have
been presented with by the Chinese are put in among these presents,
because by this means they can dispose of them to the best advantage,
either by obliging us to buy them at an excessive and their own price,
or by exchanging them for other goods. Now and then some uncommon
curiosities, either of nature or art, are brought over from Europe, and
other parts of the world, on purpose to be presented to the emperor;
but it often happens that they are not approved of by these rigid
censors. Thus, for instance, there were brought over, in my time, two
brass fire-engines of the newest invention, but the governors did not
think them proper to be presented to the emperor, and so returned
them to us, after they had first seen them tried, and taken a pattern
of them.[160] Another time the bird Casuar[161] was sent over from
Batavia, but likewise disliked and denied the honor of appearing before
the emperor, because they heard he was good for nothing but to devour a
large quantity of victuals.
“These presents are placed on board a barge, three or four weeks before
our departure, and sent by water to _Shimonoseki_, a small town at the
southwestern extremity of the great island of Nippon, where they wait
our arrival by land. Formerly our ambassador, with his whole retinue,
embarked at the same time, whereby we saved a great deal of trouble
and expense we must now be at in travelling by land; but a violent
storm having once put the whole company into eminent danger, and the
voyage having been often, by reason of the contrary winds, too long
and tedious, the emperor has ordered that for the future we should go
by land. The presents for the imperial court, and other heavy baggage,
being sent before us, the rest of the time till our departure is
spent in preparations for our journey, as if we designed some great
expedition into a remote part of the world.
“The first and most essential part consists in nominating, and giving
proper instructions to, the several officers, and the whole retinue
that is to go with us to court. The governors appoint one of their
Yoriki, to be _Bugiō_, that is, head and commander-in-chief. He is to
represent the authority of his masters, as a badge whereof he hath a
pike carried after him. A Dōshin is ordered to assist him in quality
of his deputy. Both the Yoriki and Dōshin are taken from among the
domestics of one of the governors, who stays that year at Nagasaki.
To these are added two beadles, who, as well as the Dōshin, carry, by
virtue of their office, a halter about them, to arrest and secure, at
command or wink from the Yoriki, any person guilty or suspected of any
misdemeanor. All these persons are looked upon as military men, and as
such have the privilege of wearing two swords;—all persons that are not
either noblemen by birth, or in some military employment, being by a
late imperial edict denied this privilege.
“I have already stated that our interpreters are divided into two
companies, the upper consisting of the eight chief interpreters, and
the inferior including all the rest. The _Nemban,_ or president for
the time being, of each of these companies is appointed to attend us
in this journey. To these is now added a third, as an apprentice, whom
they take along with them to qualify him for the succession. All the
chief officers, and all other persons that are able to do it, take some
servants along with them, partly to wait upon them, partly for state.
The _Bugiō_ and the principal interpreter take as many as they please,
the other officers, each two or three, as they are able, or as their
office requires. The Dutch captain, or ambassador, may take three, and
every Dutchman of his retinue is allowed one. The interpreters commonly
recommend their favorites to us, and the more ignorant they are of the
Dutch language, the better it answers their intention.
“I omit to mention some other persons, who, by order or by special
leave of the governors and interpreters, make the journey in company
with us, and at our expense, too, though otherwise they have no manner
of business upon our account.
“All these future companions of our voyage have leave to make us
some friendly visits at Deshima, in order to get beforehand a little
acquainted with us. There are many among them who would willingly be
more free and open, were it not for the solemn oath they must all take
before their departure, but much more for the fear of being betrayed
by others, since, by virtue of the same oath, they are obliged all and
every one of them to have a strict and watchful eye, not only over
the Dutch, but also over the conduct of each other, particularly with
regard to the Dutch.
“Another branch of preparations for our journey is the hiring of horses
and porters. This is the chief interpreter’s business, as keeper of
our purse, who is also appointed to take care that whatever is wanted
during the whole journey be provided for. ’Tis he, likewise, that gives
orders to keep everything in readiness to march the minute the Bugiō is
pleased to set out.
“Two days before our departure every one must deliver his cloak, bag,
and portmantle, to proper people, to be bound up;—this not after
our European manner, but after a particular one of their own, which
deserves to be here described.
“A plain wooden saddle, not unlike the pack-saddles of the Swedish
post-horses, is girded on the horse with a breast-leather and crupper.
Two latchets are laid upon the saddle, which hang down on both sides
of the horse, in order to their being conveniently tied about two
portmantles, which are put on each side in a due balance; for when
once tied together, they are barely laid on the horse’s back, without
any other thong or latchet to tie them faster. However, to fasten them
in some measure, a small, long box, or trunk, called by the Japanese
_Atotsuke_, is laid over both portmantles upon the horse’s back, and
tied fast to the saddle with thongs; and over the whole is spread the
traveller’s covering and bedding, which are tied fast to the _Atotsuke_
and side trunks. The cavity between the two trunks, filled up with
some soft stuff, is the traveller’s seat, where he sits, as it were,
upon a flat table, commodiously enough, either cross-legged or with
his legs extended hanging down by the horse’s neck, as he finds it
most convenient. Particular care must be taken to sit in the middle,
and not to lean too much on either side, which would either make the
horse fall, or else the side trunks and rider. In going up and down
hills the footmen and stable grooms hold the two side trunks fast, for
fear of such an accident. The traveller mounts the horse, and alights
again, not on one side, as we Europeans do, but by the horse’s breast,
which is very troublesome for stiff legs. The horses are unsaddled and
unladen in an instant; for having taken the bed-clothes away, which
they do first of all, they need but untie a latchet or two, which they
are very dexterous at, and the whole baggage falls down at once. The
latchets, thongs, and girths, made use of for these several purposes,
are broad and strong, made of cotton, and withal very neatly worked,
with small, oblong, cylindrical pieces of wood at both ends, which are
of great use to strain the latchets, and to tie things hard.
“The saddle is made of wood, very plain, with a cushion underneath and
a caparison behind, lying upon the horse’s back, with the traveller’s
mark, or arms, stitched upon it. Another piece of coarse cloth hangs
down on each side as a safeguard to the horse, to keep him from being
daubed with dirt. These two pieces are tied together loosely under the
horse’s belly. His head is covered with a net-work of small but strong
strings, to defend it, and particularly the eyes, from flies, which are
very troublesome. The neck, breast, and other parts are hung with small
bells.
“The side portmantles, which are filled only with light stuff, and
sometimes only with straw, are a sort of square trunk, made of stiff
horse leather, mostly four feet long, a foot and a half broad, and as
many deep. The cover is made somewhat larger, and so deep as to cover
the lower part down to the bottom. Though they hold out rain very well,
yet for a greater security, they are wrapt up in mats, with strong
ropes tied about them; for which reason, and because it requires some
time to pack them up, they are seldom unpacked till you are come to
the journey’s end, and the things which are the most wanted upon the
road are kept in the _Atotsuke_. This is a small, thin trunk or case,
about four feet and a half in length, nine inches broad, and as many
deep. It contains one single drawer, much of the same length, breadth
and depth. It hath a little door or opening on one side, which can
be locked up, and by which you can come conveniently at the drawer,
without untying the _Atotsuke_. What things are daily wanted upon the
road must be kept in this trunk. It serves likewise to fasten the two
portmantles, or side trunks, which would otherwise require a stick. It
is made of thick, strong, gray paper, and, further to secure it against
all accidents of a long journey, strings are tied about it in form of a
net, very neatly.
“To complete our traveller’s equipage, some other things are requisite,
which are commonly tied to the portmantles. Such are, 1. A string with
_Zeni_, a brass money with a hole in the middle, they being more
proper to buy what necessaries are wanted on the road than silver
money, which must be weighed. People that travel on horseback tie
this string behind them to one of the sashes of their seats. Foot
travellers carry it in a basket upon their back[162]. 2. A lantern,
of varnished and folded paper, with the possessor’s arms painted upon
its middle. This is carried before travellers by their footmen, upon
their shoulder, in travelling by night. It is tied behind one of the
portmantles, put up in a net or bag, which again hath the possessor’s
arms, or marks, printed upon it, as have in general the clothes and all
other movables travellers of all ranks and qualities carry along with
them upon their journeys. 3. A brush made of horse’s hairs, or black
cock feathers, to dust your seat and clothes. It is put behind your
seat, on one side, more for show than use. 4. A water-pail, which is
put on the other side of the seat, opposite to the brush, or anywhere
else. 5. Shoes, or slippers, for horses and footmen. These are twisted
of straw, with ropes likewise of straw, hanging down from them, whereby
they are tied about the horse’s feet, instead of our European iron
horse-shoes, which are not used in this country. They are soon worn
out in stony, slippery roads, and must be often changed for new ones.
For this purpose, the men that look after the horses always carry a
competent stock along with them, tied to the portmanteaus, though they
are to be met with in every village, and are offered for sale by poor
children begging the road.
“I must beg leave to observe that, besides the several things hitherto
mentioned, which travellers usually carry along with them in their
journeys, I had for my own private use a very large Javan box, which I
had brought with me from Batavia. In this box I privately kept a large
mariner’s compass, in order to measure the directions of the roads,
mountains, and coasts; but open and exposed to everybody’s view, was
an inkhorn; and I usually filled it with plants, flowers, and branches
of trees, which I figured and described (nay, under this pretext
whatever occurred to me remarkable). Doing this, as I did it free and
unhindered, to everybody’s knowledge, I should be wrongly accused to
have done anything which might have proved disadvantageous to the
Company’s trade in this country, or to have thereby thrown any ill
suspicion upon our conduct from so jealous and circumspect a nation.
Nay, far from it, I must own that, from the very first day of our
setting out, till our return to Nagasaki, all the Japanese companions
of our journey, and particularly the Bugiō or commander-in-chief,
were extremely forward to communicate to me what uncommon plants they
met with, together with their names, characters, and uses, which they
diligently inquired into among the natives. The Japanese, a very
reasonable and sensible people, and themselves great lovers of plants,
look upon botany as a study both useful and innocent, which, pursuant
to the very dictates of reason and the law of nature, ought to be
encouraged by everybody. Thus much I know, by my own experience, that
of all the nations I saw and conversed with in my long and tedious
travels, those the least favored botanical learning who ought to have
encouraged it most. Upon my return to Nagasaki, _Tōnemon_, secretary
and chief counsellor to the governors, being at Deshima, sent for me,
and made me, by the chief interpreter, the following compliment: That
he had heard with great pleasure from our late Bugiō, how agreeably
I had spent my time, and what diversion I had taken upon our journey
in that excellent and most commendable study of botany, whereof he,
_Tōnemon_, himself was a great lover and encourager. But I must
confess, likewise, that at the beginning of our journey I took what
pains and tried what means I could to procure the friendship and
assistance of my fellow-travellers, obliging some with a submissive
humble conduct and ready assistance, as to physic and physical advice,
others with secret rewards for the very meanest services and favors.
“A traveller must not forget to provide himself with a cloak, against
rainy weather, made of double-varnished oiled paper, and withal so very
large and wide that it covers and shelters at once man, horse, and
baggage. It seems the Japanese have learned the use of it, together
with the name _Kappa_, from the Portuguese.
“To keep off the heat of the sun, travellers must be provided with a
large hat, which is made of split bamboos or straw, very neatly and
artfully twisted, in form of an extended sombrero, or umbrella. It is
tied under the chin with broad silk bands, lined with cotton. It is
transparent and exceedingly light, and yet, if once wet, will let no
rain come through. Not only the men wear such hats upon their journeys,
but also the women in cities and villages, at all times, and in all
weathers, and it gives them no disagreeable look.
“The Japanese upon their journeys wear very wide breeches, tapering
towards the end, to cover the legs, and slit on both sides to put
in the ends of their large, long gowns, which would otherwise be
troublesome in walking or riding. Some wear a short coat or cloak over
the breeches. Some, instead of stockings, tie a broad ribbon around
their legs. Ordinary servants, chiefly Norimono-men and pike-bearers,
wear no breeches, and, for expedition’s sake, tuck their gowns quite up
to their belt, exposing their naked bodies, which they say they have no
reason at all to be ashamed of.
“The Japanese of both sexes never go abroad without fans, as we
Europeans seldom do without gloves[163]. Upon their journeys they make
use of a fan which hath the roads printed upon it, and tells them how
many miles they are to travel, what inns they are to go to, and what
price victuals are at. Some, instead of such a fan, make use of a
road-book, which are offered them for sale by numbers of poor children,
begging along the road. The Dutch are not permitted, at least publicly,
to buy any of these fans, or road-books.
“A Japanese on horseback, tucked up after this fashion, makes a very
comical figure at a distance; for, besides that they are generally
short and thick, their large hat, wide breeches and cloaks, together
with their sitting cross-legged, make them appear broader than long.
Upon the road they ride one by one. Merchants have their horses,
with the heavy baggage packed up in two or three trunks or bales,
led before them. They follow, sitting on horseback, after the manner
above described. As to the bridle, the traveller hath nothing to do
with that, the horse being led by one of his footmen, who walks at the
horse’s right side, next by the head, and together with his companions
sings some merry song or other, to divert themselves, and to animate
their horses.
“The Japanese look upon our European way of sitting on horseback,
and holding the bridle one’s self, as warlike and properly becoming
a soldier. For this very reason they seldom or never use it in their
journeys. It is more frequent among people of quality in cities, where
they go a visiting one another. But even then the rider (who makes but
a sorry appearance when sitting after our manner) holds the bridle
merely for form, the horse being still led by one, and sometimes by
two, footmen, who walk on each side of the head, holding it by the bit.
Their saddles come nearer our German saddles than those of any Asiatic
nation. The stirrup-leathers are very short. A broad round leather
hangs down on both sides, after the fashion of the Tartars, to defend
the legs. The stirrup is made of iron, or Sowaas (?), very thick and
heavy,—not unlike the sole of a foot, and open on one side, for the
rider to get his foot loose with ease, in case of a fall,—commonly of
an exceeding neat workmanship, and inlaid with silver. The reins are
not of leather, as ours, but silk, and fastened to the bit.
“Besides going on horseback, there is another more stately and
expensive way of travelling in this country, and that is to be carried
in _Norimono_, and _Kago_, or particular sorts of chairs or litters.
The same is usual likewise in cities. People of quality are carried
about after this manner for state, others for ease and convenience.
There is a wide difference between the litters men of quality go in,
and those of ordinary people. The former are sumptuous and magnificent,
according to every one’s rank and riches. The latter are plain and
simple. The former are commonly called Norimono, the latter Kago. The
vulgar (in all nations master of the language) have called them by two
different names, though, in fact, they are but one thing. Norimono
signifies, properly speaking, a thing to sit in; Kago, a basket. Both
sorts rise through such a variety of degrees, from the lowest to the
highest, from the plainest to the most curious, that a fine Kago is
scarce to be distinguished from a plain and simple Norimono, but by
its pole. The pole of a Kago is plain, massy, all of one piece, and
smaller than that of a Norimono, which is large, curiously adorned and
hollow. The pole of a Norimono is made up of four thin boards, neatly
joined together, in form of a wide arch, and much lighter than it
appears to be. Princes and great lords show their rank and nobility,
amongst other things, particularly by the length and largeness of the
poles of their Norimono. People who fancy themselves to be of greater
quality than they really are, are apt now and then to get the poles of
their Norimono or Kago much larger than they ought to have been. But
then, also, they are liable to be obliged by the magistrates, if they
come to know of it, to reduce them to their former size, with a severe
reprimand, if not a considerable punishment, into the bargain. This
regulation, however, doth not concern the women, for they may, if they
please, make use of larger poles than their own and their husbands’
quality would entitle them to.”
The Norimono itself is a small room, of an oblong square figure, big
enough for one person conveniently to sit or lie in, curiously woven
of fine, thin, split bamboos, sometimes japanned and finely painted,
with a small folding-door on each side, sometimes a small window before
and behind. Sometimes it is fitted up for the conveniency of sleeping
in it. It has at top a roof, which in rainy weather has a covering
of varnished paper. It is carried by two, four, eight, or more men,
according to the quality of the person in it, who (if he be a prince
or lord of a province) carry the pole on the palms of their hands;
otherwise, they lay it upon their shoulders. All these Norimono-men
are clad in the same livery, with the coat of arms or mark of their
masters. They are every now and then relieved by others, who in the
mean time walk by the Norimono’s side.
[Illustration: A BRIDGE SPANNING THE RIVER ŌIGAWA; VIEW OF FUJIKAWA]
“The Kago are not near so fine nor so well attended. They are much
of the same figure, but smaller, with a solid, square or sometimes
a round, pole, which is either fastened to the upper part of the
roof, or put through it underneath. The Kago commonly made use of for
travelling, chiefly for carrying people over mountains, are very poor
and plain, and so small, that one cannot sit in them without very great
inconveniency, bowing the head and laying the legs across. They are
not unlike a basket with a round bottom, and a flat roof, which one
reaches with his head. In such Kago we are carried over the rocks and
mountains, which are not easily to be passed on horseback. Three men
are appointed for every Kago, who, indeed, for the heaviness of their
burden, have enough to do.”