all-cotton twill or kindred weave material firmly woven from
hard-twisted yarn, which has been figured or ornamented in the
weaving by the introduction of a small floral or geometrical design.
The fabric, being a "dyed fabric," is piece-dyed. Like Plain
Lastings, this material enters largely into the manufacture of uppers
for boots and shoes.
=Dyed Figured Cotton Reps.=--This name is used to designate an
all-cotton material which is primarily a Rep fabric. It combines the
prominent reps or ribs running transversely across the face of the
cloth, which is the distinctive feature of a Plain Rep fabric, with
certain small figures, floral or geometrical effects, etc., which
are introduced for the purpose of ornamentation. This figuring may
be produced either by means of extra threads on the surface of the
cloth, by the mode of interlacing the warp and the weft threads on
the surface of the cloth, or by having the pattern or outline of
the design impressed or stamped in the fabric, which, as it is a
dyed fabric, has been coloured after leaving the loom. This kind of
material averages 32 inches in width and 32 yards in length per piece.
=Dyed Figured Ribs.=--This name is used to designate a fabric which
is primarily a rib material having the characteristic rep or rib
running from selvedge to selvedge, or, in some cases, lengthways of
the fabric, but which, in addition, has had its surface ornamented
with any figures, floral or geometrical designs. This ornamentation
constitutes the figuring and is produced either by means of extra
threads or by having the pattern or outline of the design impressed,
stamped, or embossed in the fabric, which, as it is a dyed fabric,
has been coloured after leaving the loom. A Dyed Figured Cotton Rib
would be an all-cotton material with an average width of 32 inches
and averaging 32 yards to the piece.
=Dyed Fustians.=--Fustians embrace two classes of finished goods,
some of which are characterised in finishes by a nap raised on
the fabric, such as Moleskins, Beaverteens, etc. The other class
comprises cut pile fabrics, variously known in the trade by
distinctive names, such as Velveteen and Corduroy. Fustians are
essentially all-cotton fabrics. Dyed Fustians are piece-dyed fabrics
and not woven from coloured yarns.
=Dyed Imitation Turkey Reds.=--The fabric of which this class of
goods is an imitation is generally a twill-faced all-cotton cloth
piece-dyed with a cochineal dye, which is fast to light and washing.
The Dyed Imitation Turkey Red is similar in construction of fabric,
but depends for its colouring upon a chemical or synthetic dye which,
while it resembles cochineal, has not the same qualities of fastness.
Dyed Imitation Turkey Reds are piece-dyed fabrics averaging in width
32 inches and in length 25 yards per piece. Fabrics coming under this
heading are invariably plain, _i.e._, unornamented either through
weave combination, printing, or embossing.
=Dyed in the Piece or Piece-dyed.=--These terms virtually explain
themselves. When a fabric is impregnated with a uniform colour over
its whole surface it is said to be dyed in the piece or piece-dyed.
Piece-dyeing is open to produce cloud spots, stains, etc., which
would not appear if the yarn had been dyed previously to being
woven, for in that case even if the yarn had in parts got stained it
would not show as a clearly defined stain in the fabric once woven.
Piece-dyed fabrics may sometimes be distinguished from yarn-dyed
fabrics by unravelling threads of each kind. In the case of yarn-dyed
fabrics, the dyestuff has penetrated through the yarn, while in the
case of piece-dyed fabrics the dye-stuff has not the same chance of
penetrating yarn as completely. The term "dyed in the grey" (_see
under_ Union Cloth) has a similar meaning to "dyed in the piece" or
"piece-dyed."
=Dyed Lawns= are plain-woven light-weight cotton fabrics of soft
finish which have been piece-dyed, _i.e._, impregnated with a uniform
colour over their whole surface after leaving the loom. They vary
in weight from 1¼ to 2¼ ounces per square yard and in width from
27 to 46 inches. They answer to descriptions of White Lawns (which
see), and differ from them only in regard to the fact that they are
piece-dyed.
=Dyed Lenos.=--This fabric or class of fabric is an all-cotton
material woven with a gauze and Leno weave and subsequently
piece-dyed. The description of Leno fabrics given in a United States
Government publication reads: "A term frequently used where various
weaves or combination of weaves also have warp threads crossing
over one or more warp threads instead of lying parallel to one
another throughout the fabric. The warp threads which thus appear
in a zig-zag way either on the surface or closely interwoven in the
fabric, are, in addition to interlacing with the filling threads,
also crossing their neighbouring warp threads that continue in a
parallel line with the selvedges."
Leno fabrics generally show stripe effects, the exception to this
being the All-over Leno, which resembles in weave the ordinary
Cellular Cloth.
=Dyed Leno Brocade.=--This term is used to designate a fabric woven
in the Leno style, that is to say, in a combination of "gauze
weaving" and any other style of weave, and the term Brocade shows
that it is a figured fabric having a figure chiefly constructed by
weft threads floating on the surface of the material. As in this
class of fabric the threads are not dyed prior to weaving, the term
"dyed" shows that the material has been dyed after it has left the
loom. _See also_ Lenos.
=Dyed Muslins.=--Dyed Muslin is an all-cotton fabric of light weight,
plain woven, which has been piece-dyed, _i.e._, impregnated with
a uniform colour over its whole surface. There is a difficulty in
describing Muslins, for the term Muslin, according to one Government
publication, is "a generic term for thin plain-woven cotton cloth.
The name, however, is frequently used in conjunction with such names
as dotted, fancy, figured, spot, check, Swiss, etc., which in each
case would denote some combination weave, or as containing stripes or
checks, but the fabric still preserving a light weight." From this,
however, it seems clear that a Muslin is a plain non-figured fabric
of light weight.
=Dyed Plain Cottons.=--Under this heading may be grouped all such
fabrics which (_a_) are made of all cotton, (_b_) have a surface
which has not been ornamented by the introduction of any small
figures, floral or geometrical designs, whether produced by means of
extra threads or by the mode of interlacing the warp and weft threads
on the surface of the cloth or by having the pattern or outline of
the design impressed or stamped in the fabric, (_c_) are dyed in any
colour, and (_d_) are not otherwise enumerated. The fabrics coming
under this heading include both fabrics which have not been subjected
to any special process of finishing and those which have been so
treated, irrespective of the style of finish.
=Dyed Plain Cotton Italians.=--The fabric answering to this
description is primarily an all-cotton Italian Cloth whose surface
does not show any ornamentation produced either by weaving, printing,
embossing, or any other process. The fact that the fabric has been
specially finished, to improve its appearance, by being mercerised,
schreinered, gassed, silk or electric finished, does not alter its
nature of a "plain" cloth. The fabric, being a "dyed" fabric, is one
which has been coloured after leaving the loom. As Italian Cloths are
generally woven from a black warp and grey weft and, after weaving,
dyed in the piece, they are really "cross-dyed."
=Dyed Real Turkey Reds.=--Turkey Reds are a class of staples whose
salient distinctive feature is the fact that the dye used in their
manufacture is cochineal dye. Real Turkey Reds are absolutely
fast dyed, the colour will not run when washed, and it will not
appreciably fade when exposed to the action of the sun.
Turkey Reds are piece-dyed, that is to say, the cotton fabric is
woven, generally a twill-faced cloth, and the piece is dyed. It is
not woven of yarn previously dyed. There does exist a yarn dyed with
turkey red; this, however, is principally used for weaving in to the
ends of pieces of White Shirting or Sheeting certain distinguishing
red weft threads, markings that are placed there by the manufacturer
of the grey goods (1) to facilitate recognition of his goods when
they come back from the bleacher, (2) to denominate quality of goods
by acting as a distinctive mark, (3) to prevent the piece being cut
at either end and the part cut off stolen whilst at the bleachers.
This yarn is also used for markings which are to withstand washing
without running. The cost of dyeing the grey or white fabric into a
Turkey Red is often greater than the original value of the fabric.
=Dyed Reps= are fabrics which have as a predominant feature a rep or
rib running transversely across the face of the cloth from selvedge
to selvedge and which have been piece-dyed after leaving the loom.
Even without the term "dyed" being used the term Rep by itself would
generally be used to designate a dyed plain cotton fabric of the Rep
variety. For particulars of weave, _see under_ Rep.
=Dyed Ribs.=--Fabrics which are either warp or weft ribbed, _i.e._,
having ribs running either from selvedge to selvedge as in warp ribs,
or lengthways of the material as in weft ribs, and which have been
piece-dyed after leaving the loom. For particulars of distinctive
weave, _see under_ Warp Ribs and Weft Ribs.
=Dyed Sheetings.=--It would appear that when a true Cotton Sheeting
fabric has been dyed it is no longer known as a "Sheeting," and
this is supported by the remark under the heading Sheetings which
appears in a United States Government publication to the effect that
"should a Sheeting be dyed or printed, it is never sold as Sheeting,
but under some other name." A Dyed Sheeting would, of course, be a
stout all-cotton fabric answering to the description of a Bolton
Sheeting, woven from coarse yarns, as a four-shaft two-and-two twill,
and measuring in width up to 120 inches; but the fabric most likely
to be described as a Dyed Sheeting is the narrower variety, which
is most often plain woven, measuring 36 inches by 40 to 80 yards,
and slightly heavier than Shirtings of the same measurements which,
subsequent to weaving, has been piece-dyed.
=Dyed Shirtings.=--The term in its narrower sense is used to
designate what is virtually an all-cotton cloth, woven with a plain
weave and having the warp and weft approximately equal in number of
threads and counts, which has been coloured by being piece-dyed after
weaving. The actual fabric, apart from the dyeing, is that of a Grey
Shirting or Grey Sheeting, which are more fully described under their
respective headings.
=Dyed T-Cloths.=--Piece-dyed all-cotton plain-woven fabric, woven
from low-quality yarns, generally put up in 24-yard lengths.
=Dyed Velvet Cords (Cotton).=--This fabric differs from Dyed
Velveteen Cords only as regards the length of the pile, which is
longer or deeper in Dyed Velvet Cords than in Dyed Velveteen Cords.
The difference between this fabric and Corduroys is that Corduroys
have perfect half-round regular pile ribs, separated by a dividing
line between each stripe or pile rib, showing both warp and filling
threads, whilst Velvet Cords have no such dividing line.
=Dyed Velveteen Cords (Cotton).=--Like the plain Velveteen, this
fabric is essentially an all-cotton pile fabric in which the
distinguishing effect is formed by the points of the fibres in the
filling yarns, termed the pile, being presented to the vision, and
not the sides of the yarns as in the majority of cases. The cords are
produced by a process of cutting away the pile so as to form raised
cord-like corrugations running lengthways of the piece. Being a dyed
fabric, it is coloured uniformly all over the piece in some solid
colour. It differs from Dyed Velvet Cords only as regards the length
of pile, which in the Velveteen variety is shorter. The difference
between this class of material and a Corduroy is that Corduroy has a
dividing line between each stripe or cord of pile, showing both warp
and filling threads, whilst Velveteen Cords have no such dividing
line.
=Embossed Velvet (Cotton).=--The term Cotton Velvet is generally
recognised in the manufacturing and distributing trade to be a
misnomer, and the material or fabric which would appear to come under
this classification is in reality an Embossed Velveteen, which see.
=Embossed Velveteen (Cotton).=--This term is used to designate an
all-cotton pile-weave fabric generally woven as a weft-pile weave,
the pile surface, consisting of threads or fibres in the filling
yarn which forms the pile, standing up at right angles to the back
of the fabric. The distinctive feature of this class of fabric is
the embossed design or pattern, which is essentially an indented
ornamentation produced by pressure and heat. The embossing machine
for giving an indented ornamentation to Velvet or Velveteen and other
fabrics has engraved copper rollers, which are heated by enclosed
red-hot irons or series of gas jets when operating on dampened goods.
The engraved rollers have designs in intaglio, which confer a cameo
ornamentation upon the fabric being embossed.
=Embroideries.=--When applied to woven fabrics this name is used to
designate a fine plain-woven cloth made from fine yarns and used for
embroidery purposes. Generally a linen fabric.
=End.=--When the word "end" is used in connexion with weaving it
signifies the warp threads, while each filling or weft thread is
called a "pick." When used to designate a class of twill-weaving such
as "a five-end twill," it refers to the total number of warp and weft
threads in the twill pattern; thus, "a five-end twill" designates
the interlacing of four warp and one weft. Under "Twill Weave" will
be found the generally recognised ways of arranging the order of
interweaving.
=English Foot.=--A stocking having two seams in the foot, one on each
side of the sole.
=Eolienne.=--A sheer silk and wool material. Also in silk and cotton.
=Éponge.=--A French term for Sponge Cloth.
=Equestrienne Tights.=--Tight-fitting knitted drawers for women's
use, made of ribbed cloth, either with or without feet.
=Étamine.=--French name for Bolting or Sifting Cloth, generally made
of silk yarn and used for the purpose of sifting flour. The term is
used in America to designate mesh or net weaves.
Étamine, though often made of silk, is found also in wool, cotton,
linen, etc. Plain weave and open-work structure are its salient
features. It is equally used for sifting powdered solids and
filtering liquids.
=Extract= is a comprehensive term used to indicate a special class
of fibres which have been obtained by "pulling" or beating to pieces
material which may have been milled or unmilled, but which was partly
composed of cotton, this cotton being got rid of or destroyed by the
treatment which is known as carbonising.
=Extracted.=--Goods in which the pattern has been printed, first
applying the design with a material which, after dyeing, permits the
colour, as it affects the design, to be washed out or "extracted."
=Façonné.=--Having a figure or design raised on the surface.
=Faille.=--A soft flat-ribbed silk.
=Fancies.=--Fancy is a term used to designate those fabrics which are
not woven in the same way year after year, but which show variations
in weave, colour, or both colour and weave. The principal Fancies
of the dress goods variety are Brocades, Cuspettes, Meliores,
Hopsacking, Stripes, Checks, Plaids, Mélanges, and Mixtures.
=Fents.=--When a full-sized piece of cloth is found to be imperfectly
woven in parts or damaged through stains, etc., and unsaleable as a
whole piece, it is cut up into short lengths; these short lengths
are called "fents." The name also is applied to short lengths cut
from piece ends and is equivalent to the term "remnant." The value of
fents is much less per yard than for similar cloth in the full piece.
=Figured.=--When used with reference to textiles the term "figured"
means that for the purpose of ornamentation certain extra
threads--known as figuring threads--have been introduced on the
surface of a plain ground structure or on other ground structural
weaves, and afterwards allowed to lie loosely or "float" underneath
the ground cloth structure. When the extra threads introduced run
lengthways in the piece the figured fabric produced is known as an
"extra warp" figured cloth. When, similarly, the figured effect is
obtained by the introduction of extra threads running across the
face of the material, the figured fabric produced is known as an
"extra weft" figured cloth. The most elaborate effects, however,
are produced by means of the extra warp effects. A cloth may be
figured without the addition of any extra warp or weft thread but by
combination of weave.
=Figured Muslin.=--When an ordinary plain-weave fabric of the Muslin
variety has been ornamented by means of combination of weave or an
extra thread, whilst still retaining the characteristic light weight,
etc., of the true Muslin fabric, it is known as a Figured Muslin.
Unless specially designated, a Figured Muslin would be an all-cotton
fabric.
=Figure Weaving.=--When complicated and elaborate designs are
required the cloth must be woven with the aid of a Jacquard, which
is an apparatus for automatically selecting warp threads and
manipulating them to facilitate the passage of the filling. This
style of weave produces figured effects on the face of the fabric and
is generally used to produce patterns of great width. Such figured
and elaborate designs are classed under the name of Jacquards.
=Filled Cotton Cloth.=--This form of cloth has the interstices
between the threads filled with glue, china clay, white lead, chalk,
plaster of paris, glauber salts, glucose, or other filling substances.
=Filling.=--This term is given to the process of adding weight to
a fabric by subjecting it to an operation, whereby it will have
been made to absorb certain chemicals or substances. The principal
filling agents are zinc chloride, magnesium sulphate, magnesium
chloride, glue, gelatine, dextrine, starch, and water glass (alkali
silicate). The term "filling" is also used to designate the material
used in weighting the fabric and has the same value as "loading" or
"weighting."
When the word "filling" is used in connexion with weaving it always
signifies the weft threads, each of which is also called a "pick."
=Flannel (Woollen).=--The true Woollen Flannel should be an all-wool
fabric, into the making of which no fibres other than wool enter.
Woven with either a plain or twill weave, Flannel is a soft-finished
material, which, in the better grades, should be of a non-shrinking
character. When a very small percentage of cotton is found in
so-called all-wool Flannel, it is sometimes due to cotton having
remained in the machines used for the carding of the wool prior to
making it into yarn. In some countries as much as 1 per cent. of
cotton is allowed in an all-wool Flannel. When a higher percentage is
found the fabric is no longer considered an all-wool Flannel. When
cotton is made to form part of Flannel it is scribbled or carded
with the wool to increase the strength of the thread and improve
its spinning properties. Such yarns are known as Carded Unions and
when woven will produce a Woollen Flannel, which is distinct from an
all-wool Flannel. Inasmuch as the term "woollen" is commonly used in
opposition to "all-wool," and that it is recognised in England that
wastes, shoddy, and blends of material other than wool are referred
to as "woollen," the term Woollen Flannel is applicable to a fabric
that is not an all-wool material.
=Flannelette.=--Like Cotton Flannel, this fabric is woven from soft
mule-spun yarn, which is more suitable for a raised material than a
ring-spun yarn. Flannelette may be either plain or twill woven and
may be either piece-dyed or woven with coloured warp and weft yarns
to form either stripes or checks.
Flannelette is a cloth produced to imitate Flannel and has, owing
to its raised surface, a "woolly" feel. By being subjected to a
special treatment, Flannelette can be rendered "fireproof"; if
untreated, it is a highly inflammable material. The better qualities
of Flannelette are distinguished from the lower grades by the
former being more closely woven in the warp, and the raised nap is
shorter in the better grades. Flannelettes are sometimes printed,
in which case they would be more correctly described as "Printed
Flannelettes," the ordinary Flannelette of commerce not being as a
rule "printed." Whereas in certain countries it is not legal to sell
as "pure wool Flannel" a material containing cotton, there is nothing
to prevent a manufacturer from selling as Flannelette a material
in whose composition a certain amount of wool may enter. Unlike
Cotton Flannel, which from its very name shows that the material is
of cotton, and by inference cotton only, the term Flannelette may
not always designate an all-cotton material, although by general
acceptance in the trade Flannelette should be an all-cotton fabric.
=Flat Underwear.=--Goods knitted in plain stitch.
=Fleece-lined.=--Applied to a variety of heavy-weight undergarments
knitted with three threads--namely, face yarn, backing yarn, and a
third thread of yarn tying the face and back together. The heavy nap
or fleece is produced by running the cloth through wire rolls, called
brushers. The term "fleece-lined" is often misapplied to ordinary
single-thread underwear which has been run through the brushing
machine for the purpose of raising a light nap on the inner surface.
=Floconné.=--Having small flakes, in white or colour.
=Florentine Drills.=--When a Drill is woven with a twill weave it
is known as a Florentine Drill, to distinguish it from Satin Drill,
which is woven with a warp-faced sateen weave.
=Folded Yarn.=--Folded Yarn is produced by twisting together two or
more single yarns. When two single threads are twisted together the
Folded Yarn produced would be called a "two-fold." If the single
yarn used in producing the "two-fold" yarn was of 40's count (that
is to say, of yarn of which it took 40 hanks of 840 yards to weigh 1
pound), the "two-fold" yarn produced would really become equivalent
to 20's count (that is to say, it would take 20 hanks to weigh 1
pound); however, it would not be referred to as being a 20's count,
but as a two-fold forties and designated 2/40's. All Folded Yarns are
designated by two sets of figures separated by a line, which shows on
one side the number of threads folded together and on the other the
"count" of the single threads thus folded together. By dividing the
number of the single threads into the counts the actual number of
hanks of the Folded Yarn per pound is ascertained thus:--
Two-fold 40's, written 2/40 = 20 folded hanks per pound.
Three-fold 30's, " 3/30 = 10 " " " "
Three-fold 60's, " 3/60 = 20 " " " "
Four-fold 60's, " 4/60 = 15 " " " "
Four-fold 120's, " 4/120 = 30 " " " "
All Folded Yarn is not composed of single threads of the same count.
Where such Folded Yarns are met with, and when it is desired to
ascertain the number of hanks of such Folded Yarn per pound, the
simplest way to proceed is to take the highest count and divide it
first by itself and the other counts in succession, then divide the
sum of the various quotients into the highest count, and the answer
will be hanks per pound:--
30 ÷ 30 = 1
30 ÷ 20 = 1½
--
2½ ) 30
--
12 Answer.
--
In folding yarn part of the length of the original threads folded
is taken up in the twist; hence, when folded, they will no longer
measure the regulation 840 yards per hank, but slightly under.
=Foulard.=--A soft twilled silk, usually printed.
=French Foot.=--A hosiery term meaning having only one seam, and that
in the centre of the sole.