letters from Mr. Kittson dated F. Head 9th Inst.--The trade was then
completed and preparations making to start. The provision trade has
been excellent but the returns in furs less than was expected.--War has
broken out between the F. Heads and (Piegans.) C McKay is at the other
end of the Portage with the horses that were at the F. Heads, he had a
bad journey down on account of the depth of the snow, the horses were
five nights without eating. The snow on the portage is still near 3
feet deep.--Mr. Kittson was to have proceeded to the Pendent Oreilles
Bay but as it is supposed from accounts that that portage is impassable
with the depth of the snow, a man was sent off immediately with letters
to Mr. Kittson to stop him at the Coeur de Alan portage.--
Some people were sent off to fetch home our horses from the Coeur de
Alan plain to be ready to start for the F. Head property. Le Course
caulking his boats.--Paid off part of the Indians for their trip to the
Forks.--
Saturday 25
Raining the greater part of the day.
The horses were brought to (Birnie's)[280] plains. Paid some more of
the Indians for their horses.
Sunday 26th
Rain in the night and the most of the day.
The water in the River rising considerably these few days.--Some snow
still lies on the banks and hills that face the North.
Monday 27
Overcast weather.
Martin arrived from Coeur de Alan Portage, in place of Charles who went
off on the 23rd who was so fatigued that he could not come back. Martin
can also scarcely walk, though he came part of the way on horseback.
Mr. Kittson had not arrived at the Portage 2 days ago.--By Indian
report he had started from the F. Heads but was detained at Thompsons
plains, seeking after one of his men (Benifont) who had deserted.
There is still a great deal of snow on the Portage. Some places it is
said to be 3 feet deep.--
The horses were brought home, & the Indians engaged to furnish some
more, to go off for the F. Head property tomorrow, as Mr. Kittson is
expected to have arrived by the time they reach the Portage.
Tuesday 28
Overcast mild weather.
Rivit, 2 men & some Indians went off to meet Mr. Kittson with about 70
horses.
Wed.y. 29th.
Fine weather, sharp frost in the night.
Old Philip was sent off to the Forks to send home Chalifaux who is
there.--
Thursday 30th
Fine weather, but keen frost in the night.
La Course busily employed caulking and gumming the boats.
Friday 31st.
Frost in the night, Overcast mild weather during the day.
Notwithstanding the weather is rather cold, Vegetation is making
considerable progress, the ground about the fort is getting quite
green, and the bushes are putting forth their leaves and some small
plants flowering. The snow, nevertheless still keeps possession of the
banks that Front the north.--The River has risen considerably for some
days past. The Indians are hungry as they have little to depend upon
but moss. They have for some time past got a good many trout from the
Barrier but last night it was broken by the height of the water, & they
will not be able to repair it.
April 1826 Satd.y. 1
Heavy rain the greater part of the day.
The men employed gumming the boats.
Sunday 2
Overcast mild, soft weather. Mr. Kittson arrived from the F. Heads. he
left his people yesterday.--One of the men (Bonenfant) who deserted
from me on the 21st. Feby. but was afterwards secured, ran off a second
time, when Mr. Kittson sent two men in pursuit of him. One of these
Ignace (Astaryan), also staid away & is supposed to have deserted also.
Bonenfant made his escape from an Indian lodge before the men got up.
Three of the canoes were broke 2 two of the them sunk, & though none of
the property was lost a great deal of it was wet, & though pains was
taken to dry it, it is feared from the witness of the weather that a
deal of the meat will be much damaged.--
Monday 3rd
Overcast fair weather.
C. McKay & Canotte arrived & left Rivit and the Men this morning, they
are to stop the most of the day opening and airing the provisions.
Tuesday 4.
Overcast, weather drizzling rain.
The Men employed tying up some things that were loose in the Store.--
Wed.y. 5
Overcast fair weather.
The people with horses loaded with Flat head returns arrived. The men
immediately employed opening and examining the Provisions. A good deal
of it is wet & getting mouldy. Some of the Bales of leather were also
wet, indeed scarcely anything in the canoes missed.--
Busy the after part of the day settling with the Indians for their
horses.
Thursday 6th
Fine weather.
Busy settling with the Indians & paid them up for all their horse hire
& services for so far.--
Mr. Kittson & the men drying and packing up the meat.--
Friday 7th
Fair weather.
Had the Indians & Companys horses collected and the property taken to
below the Forks,[281] in the boat, the river being too high to cross
it on the horses. At past noon I set out with 59 loaded horses and
encamped late at the Kettle encampment.[282] Our loads are principally
provisions, a few packs of furs & leather.--All Indians but one white
man that are with the horses, they are very careful of the property.
Saturday 8th
Clear pleasant weather.
It was some time in the morning before the horses were all collected
after which they were all loaded and proceeded on the rout. Mr. Dase
and Mr. Kittson shortly come up with us. I accompanied them & we
proceeded on ahead and arrived at the Forks in the evening. We had some
difficulty crossing a small River[283] that was swelled by the snow
melting in the mountains, the current was very strong & the water deep.
My horse was carried a considerable distance down the stream. I was
completely wet up to the middle it was with difficulty I kept his back
as he was different times nearly upsetting by getting on branches or
trees.
Sunday 9th
Clear fine weather.
The boats,[284] three in number, which left Spokan yesterday arrived
at the Forks this evening, they loaded the cargoes above the little
Dalles & the light boats were run down. La Courses boat struck a stone
near the mouth of the Spokan river in a dangerous rapid and was broken.
She very nearly upset, had she done so everyone on board would have
perished. Yesterday the boats fell in with the horses & transported all
the property past the little river.
Monday 10
Cloudy weather, sun shining occasionally.
The horses and property all arrived at the Forks safe in the morning
where the loads were received.--The Bales of meat were opened to be
aired, several of them were a little wet.--Busily employed in the
afterpart of the day paying off the Indians for the lend of their
horses and their own labour coming to the Forks.--
Tuesday 11
Cloudy weather.
The meat was again all opened & spread out to air.--
The Express arrived in the evening. Messrs. McLeod.[285] Ermatinger &
Douglas.--They brought 3 pigs & 3 young cows for Fort. Colvile[286]
Wed.y. 12--
Mr. A. McDonald[287] arrived from Okanagan by land.
Thursd.y. 13.
Two boats sent off to Okanagan landed with furs.--And afterwards 20 of
the Spokan horses for the same place to go on to Kamloops to meet the
New Caledona people.--
F Rivit. Old Philip & old Paget & Pierre with a number of women and
children & all the horses & the young cows, were sent off to Kettle
falls. They have a quantity of seed potatoes with them & tools to
commence farming immediately.[288]
Friday 14th
Nothing particular,--All busy finishing the account.
Saturd.y. 15th
do do.
Sunday. 16.
The Express for the Mountains. Mr. McLeod & Mr. Birnie, set off in the
evening.--One boat 8 men.
Monday 17--
A Cargo was prepared for a boat to Okanagan.--
Tuesday 18
A boat loaded with Packs of furs, appichimons, leather &c. Messrs.
McDonald, Ermatinger & myself passengers. Set out in the morning for
Okanagan.--
Wed.y. 19th
Arrived at Okanagan in the morning with all safe.--
Met the man that left the forks on the 12th returning yesterday
morning. They would reach the forks in the course of the day.--
Thursday 20
Overcast mild weather. Messrs. A McDonald, E. Ermatinger and
Annance,[289] 12 Men and 2 Indians took their departure for Nezperces
& thence to Fort Vancouver in a boat, with 12 Packs furs, 15 bales
salmon, 4 Bales Appichimons, 1 bale Saddles, 1 Bale leather, 1 Bale
Cords & 3 (caffetes). They are to proceed from Wallawalla by land with
horses.
I remain in charge of Okanagan till the Brigade goes down. Five men
remain with me, two of whom are shortly to go off to Kamloops with
horses to meet the N. Caledonia people, and two of them are invalids.--
(No journal kept from Apr. 21 to May 31 inclusive, unless in separate
book.)
June 1826 Thursd.y. 1st
Cloudy fair weather.
The men employed gumming the boats.--Yesterday I gave up the charge of
the store &c. to Mr. F. Ermatinger[290] who is to remain at this place
during summer.--
Friday 2nd
Fair weather.
Men employed as yesterday.--Mr. Connolly[291] arrived about 5 oclock
in the evening.--He left his people this morning, they are expected to
arrive with the horses tomorrow.
Satd.y. 3
Cloudy, Showery weather.
Mr. Connollys people under the charge of Messrs. Pambin[292] &
Douglas[293] arrived late in the evening, 60 loaded horses 85 packs
furs & 6 Kegs Castorum.--They have been 25 days from Alexander 10 of
which were from Kamloops to Okanagan.--
Sunday 4th
Cloudy mild weather.--
An Indian traded a salmon.--
Monday 5th
Cloudy Showery weather
Tuesday 6th
Sultry warm weather, some Showers.
Mr. Connolly being very anxious for the arrival of Mr. Deases people,
and apprehensive that letters which he sent some time ago had not
reached their destination an Indian and a man were dispatched with
letters to Fort Colville.--About 1 oclock 2 boats & 11 men with Mr.
Douglas[294] & Kittson arrived from Ft. Colvile, with some appichimons,
cords, Provisions, &c.--The sending off in the morning is unnecessary.--
Everything made ready to start tomorrow.
Wed.y. 7th
Cloudy Sultry weather.
Departed from Okanogan with 6 boats, Men loaded with pack furs & other
baggage.[295] All under the charge of Mr. Conolly, Messrs. J. Douglas,
Pambin, Kittson, D. Douglas, & myself passengers.--Started at 8 oclock
& encamped to gum the boats at 6 a little above Priests Rapid.--Saw but
few Indians on the River, traded some roasted salmon.--The Current is
very strong & the water high.
Thursday 8th
Cloudy showery weather.
Continued our journey at 3 oclock and arrived at Nezperces[296] at 7 in
the afternoon.--A few Indians along the river.--Traded 6 fresh salmon.--
Friday 9th
Cloudy weather, excessively warm in the middle of the day. In
consequence of the rain yesterday evening, the boat and additional
cargoes to be taken from Nezperces could not be arranged. Some time
was, therefore, occupied doing that business this morning. Near noon
the boats all started 8 in number with 45 packs furs in addition to
those brought from Ok: and some other property.--Messrs. D. Douglas &
Kittson remained.--Our party now consists of 8 boats, 51 men, & 1. C.
F. & 3 clerks.--We got on well during the day.--Shortly after leaving
Nezperces at Grand Rapid[297] we met an Indian with dispatches from Ft.
Vancouver dated 3rd Inst., announcing the Arrival of the Ship. Encamped
in the evening below J. Day's River. A good many Indians along the
river.--Mr. Black gave the people a horse to eat.
Satd.y. 10
Cloudy fine weather, very warm though there was a little breeze of
wind.--
Proceeded on our journey at daylight, Passed the Portage at the
Chutes[298] and to near the lower end of the Dalles where we encamped
to get the boats gummed.--The men had a hard days labour carrying
across the two Portages.--There were about 100 Indians at the Chutes, &
from 200 to 300 at the Dalles. They are very peaceable. Traded salmon
from them to serve the people 2 days.--
Sunday 11
Cloudy, Blowing fresh part of the day.
All hands were in motion at daylight, and after proceeding down a small
channel & making a portage at its lower end,[299] continued our rout,
but it blew so fresh that we had to put ashore before noon and could
not proceed during the day.--The Indians were very quiet during the
night, but before they could be all sent off from the camp they made
a hole in the sand under the edge of one of the boats & stole a capot
from under one of the mens heads when he was sleeping.--There was some
trouble getting through the rapids and whirlpools below the Dalles.
Traded some more salmon.--
Monday 12
Continued blowing fresh all night and all day, storming in the
afternoon. It being a little moderate we embarked at daylight, but had
proceeded only a few hours when the wind reversed so that we had to put
ashore & remain all day a little below Cape Heron.[300] Some Indians
visited us from whom part of a sturgeon was purchased & some other
little things.--
A canoe of Indians on their way from the fort below visited us.--
Two Indians who had solicited a passage from the Dalles to Fort
Vancouver returned in the afternoon. One of them had the misfortune to
lose his gun. It was lying in the oil cloth which being blown up by the
wind tossed the gun overboard.
FOOTNOTES:
[246] That is, the furs sent from the Snake river country where Peter
Skene Ogden's party had been trapping during winter and summer of 1825.
[247] The trading post known as Fort Kootenay had been located nearly
opposite the present town of Jennings, Montana, but was not being
maintained this year.
[248] This refers to attempt of Mr. Kittson to ascend the Kootenay
river from the Columbia in a batteau, mentioned on pages 178-9 of this
quarterly.
[249] See note 108 on page 189.
[250] Mr. John Warren Dease, Chief Trader, in charge at Spokane House
during this winter.
[251] The portage mentioned in note 86, page 179, of this Quarterly.
[252] Free trappers nominally owned their horses, guns, traps and
lodges, but usually were in debt to the Company for everything and
obliged to turn in their furs to pay the indebtedness. The regularly
employed servants were called the engages.
[253] The same as the Coeur d'Alene portage mentioned in note 117,
this being Mr. Work's spelling or "Skeetshoo," the name given by David
Thompson to the Coeur d'Alene lake and river and Indians.
[254] Saddle blankets, made of skins.
[255] The Indians residing along the lower Kootenay river; see note 104
on page 187.
[256] Thompson Falls, Clark's Fork river, Montana.
[257] The name still remains and is said to have its origin from
numerous small fish resembling herring that were common there.
[258] Pend d'Oreille lake.
[259] North end of Skeetshoo Road and in later years called Sineacateen
Crossing.
[260] Rathdrum creek, probably.
[261] Hoodoo lake, Kootenay County, Idaho.
[262] Spokane House, at forks of Little Spokane and Spokane rivers.
[263] Spokane Falls.
[264] Some large spring on Spokane prairie; perhaps where Antoine
Plante afterward lived.
[265] Sineacateen again.
[266] Previously mentioned as Isle d'Pierre and impossible to locate
with certainty; possibly Cabinet rapids, Clark Fork river.
[267] Possibly the Trout creek, Montana: on main line of No. Pac. Ry.
[268] The large camp of the Flatheads near the lake of that name.
[269] Mrs. Work was of Spokane blood and a very Intelligent woman.
[270] Mr. Dease was suffering from some chronic disease from which he
died a few years after at Fort Colvile.
[271] Saddle bags.
[272] Herders at Thompson's Prairie, where the horses were pastured.
[273] Jacques Finlay, clerk of David Thompson, who was in charge of
Spokane House in 1811, and after whom Jocko creek, Missoula county,
Montana, is named.
[274] Another attempt to spell the name Skeetshoo.
[275] See note 79, page 176. Mr. Birnie came to the Columbia about 1820.
[276] The mouth of the Spokane river where the boats were loaded to
proceed either up or down the Columbia.
[277] See note 68, page 167.
[278] Mr. Work and Mr. Dease remain until the arrival of Mr. Kittson
with the furs and provisions from the Flathead trading post.
[279] This marks the end of Spokane House as a trading post. For
glimpse of this place in July, 1826, consult David Douglas' account in
Oregon Hist. Quarterly, Vol. 5.
[280] Evidently some prairie near the House, possibly the Five Mile
Prairie of present day.
[281] Meaning the Forks of Spokane and Little Spokane rivers about
three-fourths mile below the House, where the ford usually was. See map
in Pac. Railway Reports, Vol. 12.
[282] Uncertain but probably where the main trail Walla Walla to Kettle
Falls crosses the Spokane River.
[283] One of several creeks entering Spokane river from the south. The
road from Spokane House to the Forks evidently followed the south side
of Spokane River very closely.
[284] The boats that had been built at Spokane House during the winter;
the Little Dalles are the gorge at Miles. Lincoln County, Wash.
[285] John McLeod. Chief Trader, on his way to cross the Rocky Mts.,
Francis Ermatinger, a clerk, and David Douglas, the botanist from
England. For contemporaneous mention of this meeting consult pp. 334-5
of Vol. 5 of Oregon Hist. Quarterly, being Journal of David Douglas.
[286] This marks the beginning of the pork, beef and dairy business in
Stevens county, Washington, in particular, and all the Inland Empire in
general.
[287] Archibald McDonald, then a clerk; the father of Ranald McDonald.
[288] These people are to become the first residents at Fort Colvile,
then being completed on Marcus Flat above Kettle Falls.
[289] Mr. Annance, Chief Trader, had been in charge of Fort Okanogan
that winter and Mr. Edward Ermatinger had probably been at Thompson
river.
[290] See note 78, page 176.
[291] Chief Factor William Connolly from Fort St. James in New
Caledonia en route for Ft. Vancouver to exchange his furs for trading
goods.
[292] Pierre Chrysologue Pambrun, a clerk under Mr. Connolly, afterward
in charge of Fort Walla Walla; consult Irving "Capt. Bonneville."
[293] James Douglas, clerk under Mr. Connolly, whose daughter he
married, and afterward Sir James Douglas, Chief Factor and Governor of
British Columbia.
[294] David Douglas, the botanist, again.
[295] Constituting what was known as a fur brigade.
[296] Fort Nez Perce or Walla Walla; Mr. Samuel Black then in charge.
[297] Umatilla rapids.
[298] Ceillio Falls and the Upper and Lower Dalles, now charted as Ten
and Five Mile Rapids.
[299] Three Mile Rapids.
[300] Upper Cape Horn. See note 6.
ELIZA AND THE NEZ PERCE INDIANS
Seventy-six years ago a little six-months old baby sat in her mother's
lap in an humble home in the eastern part of what was then known as
Oregon. (Oregon then comprised all that section of country lying west
of the Rocky Mountains and north of the California line.) The baby was
a dark-haired, dark-eyed little girl, and was the joy of her parents,
who had peculiar reasons for being attached to her. She was not
different from other children of like age, but had the distinction of
being the second white American child born on this Northwest Coast, and
the first who grew to years of maturity. She is still living, and has
been for years a resident of this state, though now living in Idaho.
Her parentage and environment were unusual. On the banks of a swiftly
running stream, called Lapwai, which empties into the Clearwater
river a dozen miles or so east of the City of Lewiston, in the State
of Idaho, was the place of her birth. Their home was a nondescript
building, made of logs, eighteen feet wide and forty-eight feet long. A
partition, also made of logs, divided it into two rooms, one eighteen
feet square in which the family lived, and the other eighteen by thirty
feet, which was used for a school and assembly room. It had been a
great task to erect that house. There were no teams, and all the logs
had to be carried four miles by the Indians. It took thirty men to
carry one log. The parents were missionaries, and had lived there about
eighteen months, with no white neighbors nearer than one hundred and
twenty miles and the only means of communication between them was on
horseback.
Now let us go back thirty years or more. In the spring of 1806, when
Lewis and Clark were returning back across the continent in their most
wonderful exploring expedition, they passed through this section of
the country. On arriving at a place called Kamiah, sixty miles east of
Lapwai, they found the snow too deep to allow of their crossing the
mountains, and were obliged to remain there about a month. They found
the Indians of this tribe very friendly and accommodating. They were
really a superior race of people. Most of them had never seen any white
people before, and none of them had ever seen a black man, like York
of that party. Their curiosity was greatly aroused. They even tried to
wash the black off from his face. The thirty days or more spent there
was mutually very enjoyable, and the memory of it was treasured up in
their minds for very many years. It is not known that there were any
very religiously inclined men among them, but all knew of the existence
of a God, and Mr. Clark at least is said to have been a church member.
It is more than probable that some seeds of Divine truth were dropped
into their darkened minds at the time, for twenty-five years later they
sent a delegation of four men to St. Louis to get further knowledge of
the white man's God, and the book or guide to Heaven. Two of these were
elderly men, and two were younger. On arriving at St. Louis, then the
emporium of the West, they were cordially received by General Clark
who was then Superintendent of Indian Affairs, having charge of all
Indians living in the far West. He remembered well the hospitality he
and his company had received at the hands of their tribe a quarter of
a century before, and took great pleasure in requiting it in a fitting
manner. They arrived in the fall. During the following winter the two
elderly men sickened and died. There is a tradition, that just before
starting, one of the survivors made the following speech: "I came to
you over the trail of many moons from the setting sun. I came with one
eye partly open for more light for my people who dwell in darkness. I
made my way to you through many enemies and strange lands that I might
carry back much to them. I go back with both arms broken and empty. The
two fathers, who came with us, the braves of many winters and wars,--we
leave them here asleep by your great waters and wigwams. My people
sent me to get the book of Heaven from the white men. You make my feet
heavy with the burden of gifts, but the book is not among them. When I
tell my poor blind people after one more snow that I did not get the
book, no word will be spoken. One by one they will arise and go out in
silence. My people will die in darkness. No book from the white men to
make the way plain. That is all."
There has some doubt been expressed whether the Indian used this exact
language. But Mr. Catlin, the Government painter of Indian portraits,
and who traveled with them on the steamer going up the Missouri
river, and who painted their portraits which are now in the museum at
Washington City, is authority for the statement that this was their
object. At any rate, their very unusual mission became known among the
missionary societies in the east, then in their infancy, and awakened a
deep interest in their call for help.
In 1834 the Methodist denomination sent out four single men, two
ministers, the Reverends Lee, uncle and nephew, and two laymen, Messrs.
Shepherd and Edwards. These men established a mission in the Willamette
Valley nine or ten miles from where the City of Salem now stands. Two
years later Messrs. Spalding and Whitman followed in their footsteps.
They were accompanied by their brides, who, with indomitable pluck,
heroism and devotion faced that long and terrible journey from the
Atlantic to the Pacific, and accomplished it successfully. Of their
privations and sufferings on that long and toilsome journey there is
not now time to dwell. Week after week, and month after month, they
traveled on horseback, sleeping on the ground at night, with no house
but a tent, and no mattress but skins and blankets; fresh buffalo meat
their principal diet, and through tribes of Indians who had never seen
a white woman. After many delays and dangers, in November, 1836, Mr.
and Mrs. Spalding located among the Nez Perce Indians, the tribe who
had sent the messengers east. Doctor and Mrs. Whitman had settled in
the Walla Walla Valley, among the Cayuse Indians.
For the first three weeks the Spaldings lived or rather camped in an
Indian lodge, the poles of which were covered with buffalo skins with
the hair taken off, called parfleches, until their cabin was prepared.
The two missionary couples were one hundred and twenty miles from each
other; and neither woman saw the other or any other white woman for a
year after their separation.