they were all collected, when we proceeded on our journey and only
reached the W. end of Rat Lake. The snow in the woods takes the horses
up over their knees so that they were able to make very little way
through it. Where we are encamped, the poor horses can eat but very
little. Saw the tracks of several deer and some martens.
Monday 16
Overcast mild foggy weather.
Three of the horses strayed off in the night owing to the Indian having
neglected to hobble them. I sent a man & the Indian after them, while
I with the other men & horses proceeded to the portage[265] where we
arrived before noon, the man and Indian with the other horses did
not arrive till sun setting. Had all the pieces arranged & ready to
send off the horses in the morning. & at the same time set out myself
with the canoe. The snow is not so deep at this end of the portage as
yesterday.
Tuesday 17
Except a short interval in the afternoon, rained without intermission
all day and blowing fresh part of the day.
Had the horses collected at day light and the man and Indian commenced
loading them. At the same time I embarked & we proceeded up the River,
and encamped a little Above the lake, a good days march considering the
very bad weather. Very little more wind would have prevented us from
crossing the Lake. The snow has in several places disappeared but on
the hills and along the shores it is still thick.
Wed.y. 18
Overcast fair mild weather.
Proceeded on our journey at daylight and encamped late above the Stony
Island Portage.[266] The snow along the shore and particularly at the
portages, was very deep.--
Thursday 19
Weather as yesterday but colder.--
Continued our rout at an early hour, and encamped below the Chutes in
the evening. About noon we passed the Crooked rapid after which there
was very little snow to be seen.
Found some Indians at the Barrier River[267] & traded some Venison from
them which made us a good supper.
Friday 20
Snowing and raining all day, very disagreeable weather.
Embarked before sunrising and reached the F. Head House near dark. We
were delayed some time at the Chutes gumming the canoes.--Found Mr.
Kittson and the people all well.--Nothing material has occurred since I
went off. Little done in the way of trade except of fresh provisions,
some Inds. from above arrived with 14 deer which has served the people
& saved dry provisions for some time back on account of the mild soft
weather it is difficult to keep it from spoiling. The men have been
employed, getting wood for a canoe, making troughs to (beat) meat &
make pimmican, cutting cords, & putting an upper flooring in the house,
etc.--
Satdy. 21
Cloudy fine pleasant weather, thawing.--
An Indian brought the carcass of a deer.
Sunday 22
Mild pleasant weather.
Monday 23
Cloudy cold weather sharp frost in the night.
Six men with some horses were sent off for canoe timber with which they
returned in the evening. The road was very bad as they had to ascend
the mountains.--It is difficult to procure wood for canoes here now.
Tuesday 24
Overcast soft weather. C. McKay and six men were sent up the river in a
canoe to an Indian camp in expectation that they will be able to trade
some fresh provisions. It is supposed they will be two days reaching
the camp.[268] If we be able to procure some venison it will save the
dry provisions.--
The Old freeman Paget and a man Pierre, were sent down to Thompson's
Plain with the horses where the grass is better.
Wed.y. 25th
Overcast soft mild weather.
Two men employed dressing canoe wood, the others cutting wood &c.--
Thursday 26
Weather as yesterday, some light snow.
The men employed as yesterday. Two Kootany Indians arrived and traded
Deer skins principally for ammunition.
Friday 27
Disagreeable cold weather blowing fresh from the Northward. The men
bent the timbers for the canoe.
Sata.y. 28
Soft weather some snow.
Had the provisions examined, a little of it was mouldy. put 5 bales on
the loft to dry, to beat for pimican.
Sunday 29
Raw cold overcast weather.
C. McKay and the men who went off on tuesday returned. The River is so
shallow above that they could not get the canoe to the Indians camp
but two men were sent. The Indians have had no provisions and the
people were starving when they got a little. Only about two animals are
brought home. They brought home the skin of a ram, horns and all, for
stuffing.
Monday 30th
Snowed in the night and snowing thick the greater part of the day. Men
differently employed.
Tuesday 31
Snowing part of the day, but soft weather & thawing. There is now
nearly a foot deep of snow.
The men employed cutting and melting down talow.--
Wed.y. 1 Feby. 1826
Overcast soft weather. Some some sleet and rain showers.
Part of the men employed cutting and melting Tallow, & part, pounding
meat to make pimican.
Thursday 2
Sharp frost in the night, and cloudy cold weather during the day. The
men employed as yesterday.
Friday 3
Frost in the night. Overcast soft weather thawing during the day.
Blowing strong in the evening.
The men employed as yesterday except those that were pounding the meat,
who are making a trough as the one already made is broken. Some Indians
arrived from above & traded the carcasses of 2 deer & the skin of a
(byson). The meat is a seasonable supply as our stock of fresh meat was
nearly out.--
Saturday 4
Some snow in the night but clear mild weather during the day.
Had the men employed melting down fat.
Yesterday evening. I gave one of the men Togonche, a boxing for making
too free with my wife[269] but being in a passion he got out of my
hands before he got enough & to avoid getting another which I promised
him he ran off to the woods.
Sunday 5
Clear mild weather.
Monday 6th
Snowed hard in the night and snowing part of the day.
Part of the men employed pounding meat and part, dressing canoe timber.
Tuesday 7th
Stormy in the night with very heavy rain, rain & snow the greater part
of the day.
Part of the men employed melting fat the others at the canoe timber.
T. Toganche came to the fort in the night and took away his things, and
the other provisions, the others deny that they knew of his going off
or where he is gone too. I bilieve they are telling lies.
Wed.y. 8
Rain in the night & rain & snow during the day.
The men employed as yesterday. Nothing doing in the way of trade except
a little gum.--
Thursday 9th
Rain & very stormy in the night, mild weather during the day.--The snow
is disappearing very fast, there is now very little on the ground.
The men employed at the canoe, the wood is all dressed.
Friday 10th
Fair mild weather.
Men employed at the canoe and other jobs about the Fort.
Late last night three Kootanies arrived from Flat Head Lake & traded
3 small beaver and few ribs of dried venison, they report that the
Kootanies & Flat Heads at the Lake are employed hunting Beaver.--A
little Tobacco was sent to the Kootany Chief & some of the principal
men, word was also sent for them to be here about the middle or 20th of
next month so that we may be ready to get off in good time.
Saturday 11th
Soft mild weather.
The canoe was put on the stocks & the head and stern formed.
Last night another Kootany arrived from the Kootany Fort, & traded 2
large Beaver & 9 deer skins. He reports that the Aue platts & Kootanies
in that quarter are also employed hunting beaver.
The Pendent Oreilles arrived from up the River & brought the carcasses
of 7 deer & an Otter Skin. The Venison is a timely supply as our stock
of fresh meat was nearly done.
None of these Indians can give us any account of Toganche who deserted
some days ago.
Sunday 12
Sharp frost in the night & bleak cold weather during the day.
The Indians who arrived yesterday with the venison went off.
Monday 13th
Sharp frost in the night. Cloudy cold weather during the day. Four men
employed at the canoe & two pounding meat.
An Indian arrived from Spokan, with letters dated on the 3rd Inst. Mr.
Dease sends me orders to proceed to Spokan to make out the a/c & leave
Mr. Kittson in charge of this place. As I have a particular wish to see
the years transactions of this Post finished so that I might be able
to make some observations on it, that perhaps might have been useful,
I certainly do not like the trip, and think Mr. Dease[270] might have
made more judicious arrangements, especially when it is only to make
out the Accounts.
Tuesday 14
Sharp frost in the night & very cold all day.
The men employed as yesterday, finished pounding the meat and we are
now ready to make it into Pimican to take below to Spokan.
Wed.y. 15
Keen frost in the night, and cold freezing weather all day. The river
driving full of ice, which is an unusual thing at this season of the
year.
Two of the men employed repairing a canoe to to below to the Le (?)
Portage if the River keeps open. Five more men making Pimican. They
made 14 bags 80 ls. each.
Five of the Au platte Indians arrived late last night, & today
traded 2 Otters, about 500 Rats, and some dressed leather and
(Parrefliches).[271]
Thursday. 16
Cold frosty weather but milder than yesterday. A good deal of ice
driving in the River.
Two men employed repairing a canoe to go below.--The others at the
Pimican, Made 6 more bags & filled 2 bags of Tallow 90 lb. each.
A Flat Head Indian arrived for a little tobacco for his tribe who are
now on their way coming in, but still far off.--several are daily
arriving from different quarters principally from the Fd. H. Lake
and encamping about the fort, they bring nothing except a little dry
Venison.--
Friday 17
Overcast freezing weather. Some ice still driving in the River & ice
fast along its edges. The water is rising considerably some days past.
Three men employed repairing the canoe.--The others tying up the
Pimican & making packs of cords, to go below & doing other jobs about
the fort.--
The Flat Head Indian that arrived yesterday went off, he got a little
Tobacco for each of the principle men. He made us to understand that
his tribe were still in pursuit of buffalo but would soon come off for
the fort. They were likely to have a good deal of provisions but he
could not say what success they had in the fur way.--
A band of 13 Kootanies principally Auplattes arrived in the evening
with some furs.--It was too late to trade.
Saturday 18
Cloudy mild weather, frost in the night. Ice still driving in the River.
The Kootanies that arrived last night, traded 19 Beaver large &
small, 1 Otter, 5 martens & 1 fish, 210 Rats, 4 Elkskins, 114 dressed
& 5 parchment Deerskins and some (parrefliches), principally for
ammunition.--
Part of the men employed at the new canoe, and three finishing
repairing the one they were at these two days past, it is now ready and
I intended to start tomorrow for Spokan with a load of provisions but
the people arriving from the horse guard[272] informed me that part
of the River there is frozen over and of course, impassable, a piece
of the River above the fort has also been fast some days. In order to
ascertain exactly the state of the River below so that we might be able
to ascertain whether a passage is practicable or when it is likely
to be so, C. McKay & Canotte, who is a good judge of the River, were
dispatched to take a view of the water below at different places from
which they will be able to judge of the state of the River farther
down, they are to be back tomorrow, so that I must defer starting for
another day. As Mr. Dease wants two men down also, by taking a canoe &
cargo down at present is the only means by which they can be spared.
The canoe is also the most expeditious mode of conveyance. We cannot
attempt taking down the horses as Mr. Dease suggests, without running
the risk of making a very tedious journey, and perhaps losing some of
the horses, on account of the great depth of the snow along parts of
the road. The journey on foot must also be tedious.--Performing the
journey in the canoe is decidedly preferable, as it can be done much
quicker, & the cargo can be taken down at once & probably not more than
three canoes will require to be taken down in the Spring. So that the
men wanted below can now be spared which they otherwise could not.
Sunday 19th
Cloudy mild weather.
Some ice still driving in the River.
C. McKay & Conotte returned & reported that the River is frozen in 4
places where, Portages will have to be made, not very long ones, & that
only one place farther down is likely to be frozen at the Cobias. I
therefore have determined on starting tomorrow, it will require longer
time but it is the only means we now have of performing the journey.
From all that we can learn there is too much snow for the horses to be
sent down with safety.
Monday 20
Left the Flat Heads early, in a canoe with 7 men & an Indian and 22
pieces Pimican & fat, 1 box candles & my baggage, besides provisions
for the voyage, in all about 27 pieces. A little below the Fort we were
stopped by ice & had to make a portage at least 3/4 of a mile, after
which we proceeded to the Chutes, made the Portage & a little farther
down the River was again frozen over & we had to make another portage
about the same length as the last, but over a much worse road. The ice
is too weak to carry upon it & it is difficult to get ashore and a bad
road along shore. If we find obstructions of this kind tomorrow the
canoe will probably have to be sent back & I will have to proceed on
foot, as it would occupy a long time to carry over some of the portages
below.--Very disagreeable weather. Snow & sleet heavy in the evening so
that it wets everything.
Tuesday 21
Cloudy overcast weather, drizzling rain, sleet & snow the greater part
of the day.
Proceeded down the river at an early hour & again soon found our road
barred with ice in two places of considerable length, it was, however,
so soft that we got our way broken through it with a great deal of
labour & damage to our canoe. We crossed the Stony island portage &
encamped below it at a late hour. In the forepart of the day there
(was) little snow along the River but towards evening it was very deep.
At our camp it is not less than three feet. In the morning when I was
away with the foreman examining the ice one of the men (Bonufont)
deserted and ran off with my old gun and Powder horn. The others said
they thought I had sent him for them. This man is almost out of his
senses about our peril at the F. Heads which is probably the cause of
his running off--I had no idea that he ran off entirely or I certainly
would have pursued him with the people & caught him although it would
be difficult to find him as there is little snow in the woods and we
had no time to spare.--He will probably go no farther that the fort
where Mr. Kittson will stop him.
Wed.y. 22
Snow & rain the most of the day. We were detained some time in the
morning gumming the canoe, after which we continued our route &
encamped in the evening near the lower end of Pendent Oreilles Lake. We
just got across the lake in good time as it began to blow immediately
afterwards. We met no more obstructions from the ice, but in several
places it had very recently broke up.
Thursday 23rd
Very disagreeable cold weather, thick snow & sleet all day.
Embarked at an early hour & reached the portage at noon,--where we got
the property all safely laid up & the canoe gummed for for me to return
with her tomorrow morning while I start with one man & an Indian to the
fort & leave one man to take care of the property, till people & horses
come for it.--I am afraid the horses will have a bad job of it as the
snow here is very deep. The ice in different parts of the river has not
been long broke up.
Passed two Indian camps and lodges and loaded 3 pr. of small snow shoes
from them.--The badness of the weather prevented me from setting out
for the fort immediately.
Friday 24th
Overcast cloudy weather, snow showers.
At daylight set out for Spokan accompanied by an Iroquoy & an Indian,
and encamped at 4 oclock in the afternoon between the big hill and the
Lake. The snow on the portage is generally from 3 to 4 feet deep and
very soft and on account of the smallness and badness of our snowshoes
walking through it is very fatiguing, when we encamped we were very
tired, & had no water, however, by melting snow on a piece of bark at
the fire we soon obtained a sufficiency.--We stopped early having only
a small axe to cut firewood.
I am afraid, there is so much snow, it will be a bad job getting the
property across.
Saturday 25
Overcast, snow and sleet the greater part of the day.
Proceeded on our route at daylight and reached the plain at 11
oclock and encamped at sunsetting at Campment de Bindash, with J.
Finlays[273] sons who were hunting fortunately we fell in with them or
we would have had little fire during the night.
The snow continued the same deapth to near the edge of the woods where
it was not so deep. There was not much snow on the plains and on the
South end we walked without snowshoes.--
Sunday 26
Clear cold weather in the night and mild weather during the day.
Continued our journey at 3 oclock in the morning and arrived at Spokan
at 11. Not much snow in the woods & it was so hard that we walked the
most of the way without snowshoes. We were well tired. There were some
horses on the opposite side of (Schuihoo)[274] plain but we thought it
too far to go for them yesterday evening.
Found Mr. Dease & his people all well.
Monday 27
Snowed in the night and the greater part of the day.
It being deemed impracticable to get the property across the portage
at present on account of the depth of the snow, without, the risk of
losing some of the horses, Mr. Dease had determined to let it remain
some time till the snow thaws.--But a man (Chilifaux) was sent off to
give the man who was left behind instructions & leave an Indian with
him--and at the same time to bring home some of my things, particularly
the box containing the papers.--The Indians would not trust their
horses to cross the portage.--
Tuesday 28
Cloudy mild weather, some snow. A good deal of the snow that fell
yesterday thawed.
Wed.y. 1
Overcast mild weather. The snow thawing.
Mr. Birnie[275] & the men busy packing beaver these two days.--
Thursday 2
Overcast cold weather.
The people still employed packing furs.
Friday 3rd
Overcast cold weather, the snow thawing a little about the Fort but
diminishing very little in the woods.
Saturday 4
Weather as yesterday. Keen frost in the night.--
Sunday 5
Cloudy mild weather in the middle of the day, but cold in the night
morning & evening. Snow dimishing very slowly.--
The men finished packing the furs. I am employed arranging the accounts.
Monday 6th
(Monday, Sunday & Tuesday here given in exact order of original M. S.)
Keen frost in the night. Cloudy cold weather during the day.
The Chiefs we spoke to about horses to carry off part of the furs and
property to the Forks,[276] they engaged to furnish 80 horses.
Sunday 7
Clear fine weather but cold & the snow wasting very little.
Tuesday 7th
Cloudy cold weather keen frost in the night.
The men busy tying up the pieces & preparing to go off tomorrow. The
Indians collecting the horses.--
Mr. Birnie with 3 men, 13 Indians and 80 loaded horses set out for
the forks the first trip. Mr. B. is to remain in charge of the furs &
property. Only 4 or 6 pieces of this is private property.
Tuesday 7th
In the evening Cholefaux arrived with my trunk & blankets about 100
lb.--The other things he left.--The snow on the Portage is now very
deep, more so than when I passed it is now not less than 4 feet. There
is no knowing when horses may be able to pass through it.
The night before Cholefaux arrived at the other end of the Portage some
Inds slept there with the man who was left in charge of the goods, &
stole a small bag 25 lb. fine pimican.--
Wed.y. 8
Cloudy cold weather, sharp frost in the night.--
Chalifaux was sent off to the Forks to remain with Mr. Birnie.
Thursday 9th
Sharp frost in the night. Cold bleak weather during the day.--The snow
wasting very little to be this season of the year.--
Friday 10
Keen frost in the night, Raw cold weather. Snow in the afterpart of the
day.
The men[8] employed with two Indians pressing the fur packs, but had to
give it up on account of the snow.
Saturday 11th
Froze keen in the night. Light clouds fine weather though cold during
the day.
The people above mentioned employed pressing the furs which was
finished in the evening having done 36 packs in the day.
In the evening an Indian with part of the horses that went off to the
Forks on tuesday, arrived, the whole reached their destination safe, &
the property all in good order, having had dry weather.
Sunday 12
Frost in the night, cloudy cold weather during day.
All the rest of the horses & Indians & men returned from the Forks.
Monday 13
Keen frost in the night.
The men employed tying up and arranging the pieces for the next trip.
Busy all day paying the Indians for their horses for their last trip.
Tuesday 14
Frost in the night, light, cloudy, cold weather during the day.
The Snow is disappearing about the Fort, but going off very slowly.
Wed.y. 15
Cloudy cold weather. The men employed cutting firewood.
Thursday 16
Heavy rain in the night some time in the morning, which has diminished
the snow considerably, the valley round the fort is nearly all bare
except patches here and there but in the woods and higher ground snow
still lies pretty thick & is wasting very tardily.--Mild, soft foggy
weather, & the first spring like day we have had this season.--
The men employed cutting firewood in the forepart of the day,
afterwards arranging and separating the furs & property to be sent off
to the forks on Saturday, in all 60 loads.--The Indians were engaged to
furnish sixty horses on that day, for the trip.--
Pere de Jolie Fille was also engaged to cross the (Schuihoo) portage
for the property that remains there, he is to go as soon as the road
is passable through the snow, which he expects will be in two or three
days.
Friday 17.
Raw cold weather in the morning, mild afterwards.--
Had provisions &c., tied up for the party going off tomorrow.--The
Indians collecting their horses.
Saturday 18th
Cloudy, snow & sleet the forepart of the day, snowed in the night, the
snow in the morning was nearly 2 inches deep, but it had nearly all
disappeared during the day, on the low ground, but on the high ground
that faces the north, the snow still remains.
On account of the bad weather the departure of the horses with the
property was deferred until tomorrow.
The water in the river has risen considerably, these few days past.
Sunday 19.
Frost in the night & fine weather in the forepart of the day but
disagreeable weather with rain and sleet afterwards.
Three men and ten Indians, with the Interpreter Rivit,[277] were
sent off to the Forks with 62 horses loaded with Furs, Provisions &
Sundries. The after part of the day turned out very unfavorable which
was not expected in the morning as the weather was fine.--There is very
little property of any kind now remaining.[144]--The women and children
also went off today.--
Monday 20
Overcast fair weather in the morning some light showers during the
day.--
Tuesday 21
Rain and sleet in the night, but fair weather during the day. The River
continues much the same, the water is rising very little.
The Blacksmith & cook, the only two men we have now here, employed
collecting all the iron about the place, stripping hinges off
doors[278] &c. The Indians much regret our going off, and frequently
complain that they will be pitiful when the whites leave them.[279]
The Indians are getting a few trout and suckers in their barrier, a
part of which they give us.
Wed.y. 22
Light showers.--
The men employed as yesterday.
Thursday 23.
Sleet & rain showers, rained hard in the night.
The greater part of the Men and Indians that went to the Forks on
Sunday last, returned. Notwithstanding the bad weather their property
got down safe.--
Friday 24.
Showery weather and cold, notwithstanding the advanced season the snow
still lies on the North side of the hills and banks.--
The rest of the people arrived from the Forks.