very good days work.--
Wed.y 3
Cloudy weather.
Embarked at 3 oclock passed the (Lampoile) River at 9 where we
breakfasted and traded a few pieces of dry salmon from the Indians, and
encamped past 6 oclock. A good days march. Tho' our boats are only a
little more than 2/3 loaded yet they are a good deal embarrassed, as we
have four women and ten children passengers.
Thursday 4
Cloudy and very warm afternoon, a great deal of thunder & lightening
and some rain in the night.
Embarked past 3 oclock and arrived at Spokane Forks at 8. The road
this morning was very bad being continual rapids. These two days
past, it was not so bad as the tow line had only to be used at some
strong points. The boats were immediately discharged, at 10 oclock 3
men arrived with the horses horses from Spokane with a letter from
Mr. Birnie. It appears that they had some trouble at Spokane with
the Indians. The scoundrel Charlie with some others was making a
disturbance, about removing the Fort.
Busily employed the after part of the day, distributing the property
among the men who are divided into two pairs and are to take a brigade
of horses each two, and also laying out the goods for Rocky Mountain
that are to go to Kettle falls, and some boxes of tools for the
building at Kettle Falls.--The two boats that are to remain are also
laid up and some guns, 26 pieces, which was sent from Spokane, burried
in the sand, till it be sent below in the fall.--
Sent a little Tobacco to the old chief at the Sampoile bourne and a
message that some salmon were wanted for the people, he brought twenty
fresh ones in the afternoon, which was abundance for the people. Some
dry ones were also traded.
Frid.y 5.
At an early hour, had the horses assembled and divided into brigades,
loaded and set off by 8 oclock and encamped at 1 at the bottom of the
big hill which is a good days march. We have altogether 35 horses
loaded, including baggage, etc. Left the guide P. L. Etang preparing
to start with the boat and cargo destined for the R Mountains, to
the Kettle Falls, where he is to remain until the 20th of next
month, he has 7 men with him, who are to be employed preparing timber
and, if they have time, building a store as a beginning to the new
establishment,[130], tools are sent with him for the purpose.--Intend
sending Mr. Dears who I expect is arrived nearly at Spokane by this
time, to Superintend the people, and L. La Bentie who is a carpenter
to assist & direct in the building. As there is a great demand for
provisions, the salmon can be loaded at the same time, for which
purpose and to feed the people, an assortment of goods is sent up.
Saturday 6
Cloudy, blowing fresh from the Westward.
Proceeded on our journey at 4 oclock and halted to let the horses
rest & feed at 10 and again resumed our journey at three and encamped
for the night before 6 at camp at Cariboo (?) having made a long days
march, the horses are tired.
The cords which fastened a load of traps gave way and the cases fell,
the horse took fright and ran off with the load hanging to him, and
so lamed one of his shoulders and leg that that he is disabled from
carrying his load & scarcely fit to walk.--An Oil cloth which one of
the men Gros Carlo had in charge was also lost through negligence. This
is a serious loss as there in none to replace it and all we had were
required. I sent notice among the Indians to seek it & if found to
bring it to the Fort & they would be paid for their trouble.
Sunday 7
Mild warm weather.
Resumed our journey at a little past 4 oclock and by 10 all the
brigades had arrived at the Spokane Fort and delivered in the cargoes.
The horses were immediately sent across the River to graze and a man to
take care of them.--
Mr. Birnie was like to have some trouble with som of the Indians
shortly after my departure to Okanagan. Charlie, according to
inteligence received by Mr. B., with a few other Nezperces had laid
a plan to cut off the fort, but as this is grounded on report and as
the Inds are very prone to belie each other, there is no knowing what
degree of reliance to place on it. Charlie is doubtly a notorious
scoundrel, when he heard of the Fort going to be abandoned he was much
displeased and declared among the Indians that had he known of it not
a horse would have been got in the Nezperces River if in his power to
prevent it.--The trade of furs has been a little better last month than
the preceding ones, but the whole returns are far short of this time
last year.--In provisions the trade is still increasing, there are now
between 4 and 5000 pieces of salmon in store, besides roots. Saving so
much provisions is a fortunate circumstance as unfortunately almost the
whole of the dry meat is found to be so completely spoiled and damaged
that it is useless.--
Mr. Dears contrary to my expectations is not yet arrived, 9 days are
now elapsed since he left Okanagan for Wallawalla, which is a day later
than I had calculated on his being able to reach this place. Probably
something may have occurred to prevent him from arriving on the day
expected.
Monday 8
Cloudy warm weather
Employed opening & examining the outfit--and making preparations by
packing up the outfit for the Flat Heads.
Mr. Dears and the Indians arrived at noon from Wallawalla with
despatches from that place, they were five days coming and had been
four days going from Okanagan to Wallawalla. however he got through
safe.
Tuesday 9th
Cloudy warm weather.
At 10 oclock sent off 11 men with 10 horses loaded with an assortment
of trading articles for the Flat Heads and a supply of some articles
required by Mr. Ogden. I intend following them tomorrow accompanied by
the old Flat Head chief who has passed the summer here & is now going
to his friends, & another Indian who is to bring back the horses. I was
prevented from accompanying the people today by having some papers to
arrange. After the people had been off some time one of them returned
for anothr horse in stead of one that had thrown his load and ran off
from them.
Wed.y. 10
Clear fine weather.
At 9 oclock I set out after the people accompanied by the old Flat
Head chief and another Indian. Near 6 oclock we came up with the party
encamped at the little Lake[131] in the woods.--Mr McDonald's[132]
horse which the old chief rode had been unwell before he left the fort
though we did not know it, and was so knocked up that we had to leave
him at the little River at this end of the Coer de Alan plains where we
arrived before 3 oclock which (is) a little more than 6 hours though
we stopped to smoke by the way & seldom went past a trot.
Left Mr Dears preparing to go off to the Kettle Falls with L. La Bontie
to to go on with the buildings at that place.
Thursday 11
Showery in the morning, fair afterwards with strong Westerly Wind.
Set out at 4 oclock and arrived at the Flat Head River[133] at noon
& immediately commenced gumming the canoes which occupied the whole
afternoon and is not yet entirely completed. One of the canoes was
taken across the River by the Indians & we had to send across for it.
The Indians had also taken nearly all the poles and paddles which will
cause us a loss of time and labour to replace them with others. We are
very scarce of gum.
An Indian handed the men who crossed for the canoe, a note from Mr
Kittson[134], he has been at the Chutes[135] since the 31st of July,
with the Indians waiting to trade
Friday 12
Cloudy pleasant weather.
Notwithstanding I had the men at work by daylight, they were so long
getting paddles, poles & ready that it was 11 oclock before we started
& then lost nearly an hour crossing (a freeman, the Soteaux & his
baggage.--) So that it was noon when we got off. We got on pretty well
and encamped past 6 oclock in the Lake[136] below the traverse to
the island. One of the canoes had only 2 men & as they found poles &
paddles ready, they went off in the morning & are yet ahead. Two of the
canoes are still very leaky notwithstanding the time that was taken to
gum them.
Sent off the Indians in the morning to the Fort with the horses, and
the appichimens, at the same time I wrote to Mr. Birnie & Mr Dears &
desired the latter if he could to prevail on the Kettle falls Indians
to get a quantity of cedar bark to cover the store. I doubt the season
is too far advanced to raise the bark.
Saturday 13
Cold in the morning blowing fresh from the Southward. Lightening & some
thunder & rain in the night.
Had the men up at 3 oclock but it was blowing too fresh to attempt
crossing the Lak & nearly 2 hours were lost waiting, still it was rough
making the haven, afterwards we got on very well and encamped near 7
oclock below Isle de Pierre.[137] Came up with the two men in the canoe
that was ahead of us, in the afternoon.
Passed a good many Indians at the upper end of the Lake, gave them
a little tobacco to smok, bought a little cammass from them, & then
proceeded.--
Sunday 14
Cold foggy weather in the morning but very warm afterwards.
Proceeded on our journey before 4 oclock and encamped before 6 a good
piece above the Barrier River.--We had to stop early to gum the canoes
which were very leaky.
Passed a few Indians, two accompanied us all day in a canoe.
Monday 15.
Showry in the morning, fine afterwards.
Embarked at 4 oclock and reached the Indian camp at the Chutes[138]
at 11 oclock, where I found Mr. Kittson and two men from Mr Ogdens
party with 38 packs & 6 (Parto....) braves. The Indian chiefs (with)
Snake furs soon visited us and on being asked whether they wished to
trade immediately or wait till tomorrow they preferred the latter.
Some tobacco was given them for all hands to smoake.--And in the
afternoon Mr. Kittson and I visited their principle lodge where the
whole of the Indians soon assembled, when we gave them all the news
from the different quarters of the country when they were enjoying the
pipe & gave us what news they had in return.--The chiefs sent us some
provisions immediately on our arrival.
Tuesday 16
Cold in the morning, very warm afterwards.
At an early hour the Indians began to arrive & a brisk trade was
immediately commenced and by noon nearly the whole trade was finished,
some lodges & trifling things were brought for sale during the
afternoon.--
In the afternoon the men were off in the woods collecting pitch for
the canoes, we applied to the Indians but a sufficiency could not be
obtained from them and the canoes much in want of it as they will be
very deep laden.
Wed.y. 17
Cloudy mild weather.
The men were employed the whole day gumming the canoes & had not the
Indians favored us with the lend of their kettles to boil pitch it
would have taken another day to finish their business.
All the Indians, except one chief who remained with us, took a most
friendly leave of us and departed during the day, there might be
altogether about Indians of four different nations, Flat Heads,
Kootanies, Ponderus and Piegans, of the latter there are but very few.
A considerable number, 30 tents, were coming, but from some cause
turned back. It was from the Flat Heads and Kootenais that the trade
was principally obtained. These are remarkably fine Indians and easily
dealt with. After the trade was over made each of the chiefs a trifling
present of a little ammunition & Tobacco, a look.g. glass & a little
beads.--
Joachin Hubert accompanied the Indians with the horses that brought
the Snake furs and a small supply of articles for Mr. Ogden to whom I
wrote and forwarded a number of letters and despatches addressed to
him. The packet packet was put in charge of Grospied one of the F. Head
chiefs, as being more safe. It was not till I was perfectly satisfied
by Mr Kittson that there was no danger of these documents falling into
improper hands, that I would trust them. The chiefs are directed to
give them to no one but Mr Ogden and in case of any accident having
befallen him to bring them back. It was Mr. Ogden's directions to Mr
Kittson that only one man should be sent back to him.
Our trade amounts to 374 large & 99 small beaver and 1 otter large,
76 bales meat, 44 Robes, 122 appechimans 16 dressed skins & 11
(chevereaux) and 5 lodges and 1 horse, 29 saddles and cords. etc.
Beaver and dressed skins are far short of last year, the deficiency
in beaver is owing to a great many of the Kootanies having gone off
to their own lands before our arrival, the scarcity of leather may be
attributed to the same cause and to their having been at the Buffalo
this season. Every encouragement was given for leather, it being so
much wanted, and very high prices offered and articles given which is
not customary to give for it. A trip will yet have to be made to the
Kootany country to endeavour to get some leather and what beaver they
may have.
Thursday 18
Foggy in the morning, fine weather afterwards.
Having everything ready, commenced loading at daylight and fell down
the river and encamped in the evening a little above the Heron rapid.
The canoes are very full and deep laden, it was so much as we could do
to get the whole into them, they are in fact heaped up in the middle.
We came down the first rapid with half cargo, the other rapids were run
with four men in each canoe, so that having to take only two canoes
down at a time detained us. Two of the canoes were broke by striking on
stones & some time was lost in repairing them, the cargoes fortunately
sustained very little damage as they got ashore before they had time to
be wet.
The old chief La Brash, who remained with us all night, took his leave
and went off in the morning.
Friday 19
Cloudy fine weather.
Continued our rout at daylight, and encamped in the evening at the
lower side of the wide traverse in the lake.[139] We were detained
sometime repairing one of the canoes that was brok, also two hours at
the Lake which was too rough to cross with our canoes so deep laden,
tho there was no wind--Some of the bales of meat were a little wet in
the canoe that was broke.--
Satd.y. 20
Rain in the morning dry afterwards.
Continued our course at daylight and reached the Portage[140] at noon
where three men were immediately sent off to the Fort[141] for horses.
the men that remained employed drying the bales that were wet, and
preparing places to lay up the canoes.
Sunday 21
Foggy in the morning, warm afterwards.
The men laid up the canoes & arranged part of the baggage to be in
readiness when the horses arrive.
Monday 22.
Clear fine weather.
Had all the pieces tied and distributed among them who are divided into
twos, saddles, appichimans & cords were also divided among the men.
Three Indians visited us in the evening from whom we got four ducks and
a little bears meat.
Three bags of balls, & 9 half & 6 small axes which we had over & above
our trade was hid in the woods in the horse pond in the night as it
will save the carriage to the Fort and back in the Fall, and these are
articles that will not injure by being burried under ground a short
time.
Tuesday 23
Cloudy mild weather.
Before noon the men arrived from the Fort with all the Company's horses
and what Mr Birnie could collect from the Indians which was still seven
short of the number required. However an Indian arrived with these in
the evening. The Indians at the Fort it seems are mostly off collecting
roots which renders it difficult to procure horses.--As the horses
require time to feed & as there would not have been time to get out to
the plains where they can be kept without danger of loosing them we
deferred starting till this morning.
Wed.y. 24
Some rain in the night, and wet disagreeable weather morning.
The weather being unfavourable we were detained some time in the
morning, but it clearing up afterwards, the horses were loaded and
we set out & encamped in the evening at the little River at the edge
of the woods. Some of the horses are very weak, and scarcely able to
manage thir loads.
Thursday 25
Showery in the night, but fair weather during the day, blowing fresh
from the Westward.
Proceeded on our journey at 6 oclock and halted at Campment
Bindash[142] at 11, where, as some of the horses are weak, I left the
people, to go to the Fort tomorrow, & proceeded with Mr. Kittson to the
house where we arrived at 4 oclock. I found two of Mr Dease's men who
had arrive with despatches from the sea a few hours before they also
brought 26 horses for the use of the Snake country expedition.
By a letter of instructions to me I am directed to bring half or such
part of the Snake outfit as Mr. Kittson may suppose sufficient, from
Nezperces. Now as it is uncertain whether Mr. Ogden may equip his men
at the Flat Heads or take them to Nezperces, I am at a loss how to
act, as if Mr Ogden takes his peoples to Nezperces it would be lost
labour to bring goods from Nezperces and just have to take them back
again, it is therefore determined to defer sending for any part of
the outfit till the beginning of October, by which time we will have
heard from Mr. Ogden & perhaps from the sea and will be able to act
according to the instructions received.--I am apprehensive we will not
be able to remove to the Kettle Falls this fall as we are uncertain
what what assistance we may have to give the Snake people. by remaining
the trade will be little affected, where as by removing we run a great
risk of having the property, particularly the provisions injured as a
store will not be ready to receive it, the horses would also be so
completely knocked up transporting the property, that they would be of
little service to Mr. Ogden in case he requires them, & probably not
able to bring his outfit from Wallawalla.
Friday 26th Augt. 1825.
Clear fine weather.
The men arrived with the horses before noon when the furs, provisions
&c were all delivered in safe.--In the afternoon the Indians were
settled with for their horses which we hired for the trip.
In the evening I was employed writing letters to Fort Vancouver.
Saturday 27
Clear fine weather.
Sent off Mr Dease's men with dispatches to Nezperces to be
for-forwarded to the sea.
A young Indian was engaged to carry the dispatches to Mr Ogden in the
Snake country he is to have a horse for his trip, and promises to make
the most expeditious he can. Nothing material has occurred since I have
been absent. Trade in furs still slack but a little doing in provisions.
Sunday 28
Weather as yesterday.
Sent off the Indian with the express to Mr. Ogden he expects to reach
him in about 8 to 10 days.
We are living now entirely on dry provisions as nothing fresh is to be
got, not a salmon to be caught in the river.
Monday 29th
Clear fine pleasant weather.
Mr Kittson (&) two men with 6 horses set out for the Kootany
country[143] with an assortment of Goods on a Trading excursion.
Sent off 9 men with some tools etc to the Kettle falls to assist with
the buildings. I intend following them tomorrow or next day, to see
how the business is going on. Getting the store completed is the first
object.
Had the Flat head Furs opened and counted, they are in good order, the
meat which was opened on Saturday is also in fine condition and weighs
about 5500 lbs. The blacksmith Philip made 2 large axes, on Saturday he
made 5 & did not begin early. we have now axes for all the people.--
A fire kindled about the Ind camp & spread about our garden & burnt the
greater part of the fence which was composed of thorn bushes.--
Tuesday 30
Fine pleasant weather.
Several Indians of the Pendant Oreill tribe arrived and traded, some
beaver & roots & berries.
Seventy salmon were taken in our barier which are the first that have
been caught for some time The Indians took 100 in this.
Wed.y. 31
Pleasant weather.
Set out from Spokane accompanied by an Indian with 3 horses & some
articles, required for building and trade, to the Kettle falls at 8
oclock and encamped at an old barn on a little River in the evening
at 5clock. The road lies on the hills & through valleys, some plains
thickly wooded & some places clear & here, & there a plain in the
valleys.
Sept. Thursd'y. 1
Warm weather.
Resumed our journey at 4 oclock and arrived at the New Establishment
at noon.--The road was much the same today as yesterday, it lay
a considerable distance through a plain along side of a little
river[144], the plain is covered with very long grass and reeds in some
places higher than the horse. The course from Spokane is nearly North,
perhaps a little to to E of it.
The men who were sent off from Spokane on Monday arrived yesterday and
are at work.
The men who were here before have made but very little progress in the
work.--7 men of them have been employed since the 13th of Augt. and
have only squared 4 logs 70 Feet long, 4-25 feet long. 16-12 feet long
& 13 Joists 25 feet long. Mr Dears says he could not get them to go
quicker, as same of them were almost always sick.--Two of them are at
present ill with the venereal and fit to do very little, one of them
does nothing. A pretty good stock of provisions is traded, dry fish &
berries sufficient to serve all the peopl here now 18 days. Very few
fresh fish are now to be got the water is fallen so much that the
salmon do not leap into the baskets which the Indians set for them.
Friday 2nd
Very warm in the middle of the day.
The men were at work at an early hour and finished squaring the logs
mentioned yesterday, the pitt saw was also put in order and a pit made
to commence sawing tomorrow. A carriage with two wheels and horse
harness were also furnished that carting the timber to the house may be
begun tomorrow.--
The fort is to be situated in a little nick just above the falls on the
South side of the River. This little nick or valley, is of a horse shoe
form, about 2 miles along the River side and about 2-1/2 or 3 miles
in depth surrounded by steep hills on both sides, a ridge of hills
runs along the opposite side of the River. The Fort is to be situated
on a sandy ridge about 600 yards from the river side. There is not a
sufficiency of wood about it to build the store, that is now under way
there the nearest wood is 1400 yards off on one side, 1500 or 1200
yards, on the other, where a little river is to be crossed.--
I took a ride along the river, through a point where there is some fine
timber. The most expeditious mode of getting the dwelling house and
other houses built will be to have the timber squared a few miles from
the fort and rafted down the river. There seems to be some fine timber
on the opposite shore about the same distance off.
The potatoes look well, but the moles are destroying some of them. the
ground they occupy may be about 35 yards square.--
Saturday 3
Fine pleasant weather.
The men were differently employed, four preparing the frame for the
store, some sawing, some squaring & one carting. there are now fifteen
men fit for duty at work I expect as they are now properly set agoing
they will get on well, and be able to have the store so far completed
that the property can be deposited in it if we can effect a removal
from Spokane this fall. This must in a great measure depend on what
assistance we can give the Snake people.
Two Indians, the old chief's sons, were spoken to and having agreed to
accompany a gentleman up the Pendent Oreille River in case he can be
spared to go, to examine the lower part of it.
An Indian was also engaged to accompany me to Spokane & bring a supply
of some articles of trade & toll that are wanted.
Sunday 4
Pleasant cool weather.
Set out from Kettle Falls at 1/4 past 6 oclock and arrived at Spokane
at 7 in the evening, which was a hard days riding, I was accompanied by
two Indians who were driving ten horses to the (Buffer de Chideu) where
I left them in the evening as some of the horses were giving up. The
Indians changed horses frequently, but I changed only once the one I
rode in the afternoon came from where I left the men in 1-1/2 hours.
Monday 5
Clear fine warm weather.