the river with a horse, and in swimming back either was seized or
pretended to be seized with a cramp & called out for assistance. Some
of the Indians brought him ashore, where he became very ill and got
little better, though at his own request he got 2 or 3 drams, untill
evening when he thought he would be the better of an airing and got the
men to paddle him in a boat up and down the river and sing at the same
time, which must considerably contribute, no doubt, to the recovery
of his health.--This man may have some influence among the Indians at
least to do injury, but he is undoubtedly an artful knave.
Saturday 16
Cloudy, a storm of thunder with squalls of wind from the Westward and
a little rain in the afternoon, last night there was a violent storm
of thunder & a great deal of lightening, with squalls of wind and some
rain.
A Brisk trade commenced in the morning and 19 horses were bought during
the day, they are generally good ones and cost mostly 20 skins each.
At noon (Tawerishewa) arrived at the head of a troup of 64 men and
several women with plenty of horses from up the North branch. After
smoaking and each of his people being presented with a piece of Tobacco
he presented a fine horses to Mr. Dease and received a present of
different articles to the amount of 32 skins in return.--The other
chief now here seems not to be fond of this man on account of his being
a doctor or medicine chief.
On account of our articles of trade falling short we will not be able
to answer these people's expectations in the way of Trade.
Sunday 17
Cloudy, gusts of wind from the Westward. A heavy thunder storm with
strong wind and same rain in the afternoon.
Commenced trading after breakfast & bought horses during the day,
four horses were presented during the day by principal men of
(Tawerishewa's) band, but they were dearer than if they had been traded
on account of the quantity of articles that had to be presented in
return. The most of the horses purchased today are very fine ones and
cost mostly 20 skins each.
Our articles of trade got short or we would have got more horses.
Green Beads, Tobacco and blankets are entirely gone, several blankets
were borrowed from the men. The last band of Indians that arrived were
considerably disappointed by these articles being nearly gone when they
came.
There are about our camp near 250 or 300 Indians. they are very quiet
and give us very little trouble, they occasionally get a little
tobacco to smoak. They pass the greater part of their time gambling,
horseracing & foot racing.
We have traded 112 horses, 5 of which have been killed. A fine young
white one was drowned crossing the river today.
Monday 18
Cloudy pleasant weather not too warm. Wind Westerly.
Our trade being finished and everything ready, we took leave of our
friendly Indians and I and six men and an Indian Charlie as a guide,
set out with 106 horses across land to Spokane at 1/2 past 8 o'clock.
two of the horses which were traded had got lame and were not able to
start.--We were detained two hours waiting for Charlie who delayed
after us to make some arrangements with his family. On account of this
delay and not being able to drive quick as one of the finest horses in
the band (Mr. Dease's) being lame which I did not perceive till after
we were off, we made but a short days' march.
We passed through a fine country the course from N. to N. W. On leaving
the river ranges of high hills had to be ascended[112], the country
then was not level but a continual succession of little rising hills
or hummocks and valleys destitute of trees or bushes except along the
margins of little brooks, but pretty well clothed with grass and other
plants though rather dried and parched, in some of the valleys along
little rivers there are a few trees and bushes besides different plants
of an uncommonly luxuriant growth.
A Ridge[113] of high land runs along at a short distance to the
Eastward, thinly wooded, close to a point of this wooded land is a
beautiful situation at a litle spring of water. We encamped in the
evening at about five oclock having to wait for one of the men who
remained behind with the lame horse.--Though the country was dry yet
water was to be found at short intervals the most of the day.
Five Indians with 8 horses also on the way to Spokane joined us in the
day & kept company with us. In the evening we passed a party of women
with a number of horses going off to the plains to collect horses.
My object in accompanying the horses besides seeing them taken care
of principally is to visit Spokane, see how affairs stand there and
consult with Mr. Birnie as to the practicability of getting all the
property, etc., removed at once to the Kettle Falls so that the whole
may be there by the time the boats arrive, by which means the trading
parties to the Flat Heads and Kootenais could be sent off immediately
and meet the Indians at a proper season or at least as early as
possible, while the remainder of the people, when two establishments
are not to be kept up, could be advantageously employed at the building
of the new establishment. This is the only plan which will enable us to
accomplish the objects of removing to the new Fort and attending their
trading excursions at this advanced season without material injury to
the trade. In order to enable us to put the above plan in execution
I got Mr. Dease prevailed upon to supply Spokane with 11 Pack Horses
which are certainly very few considering that there are only eight
at Spokane, and there is little prospect of being able to hire any
from the Indians as removing the Fort is likely to be disagreeable to
them.--I have also brought two men intended to be left at Spokane to
assist. I also wished much that Mr. Dears should accompany me for the
same purpose, so that he might proceed to the Kettle Falls & remain in
charge of the property with one man while the transportation of the
property was going on, but Mr. Dease would not consent to his coming
lest Mr. McLeod would not be satisfied, as he would not have any one
to assist him in taking up the boats from Wallawalla to Okanogan. He
certainly needed no assistance to conduct these boats well manned, when
little danger is to be apprehended from the Indians.--I represented
these things to Mr. Dease but it had no effect. I also pointed out the
inadequacy of the number of horses, but as he had orders to procure a
certain number for New Caledonia and Thompson's River, and no mention
made of any to Spokane, 11 besides 2 saddle horses were all he could
give, after completing the numbers for the other places, and depending
on his own Fort for 60 for the Snake Country.
In case the above plans are found to be practicable I intend to proceed
on to Okanogan to receive the Spokane and Rocky Mountain outfits and
accompany the boats to the Kettle Falls.
One or two more men were also requested but they could not be granted
lest Mr. McLeod would have too few to take up three boats, though there
are 23 for that purpose, of which number 2 certainly might have been
spared.
Tuesday 19
Cloudy pleasant weather. Wind Westerly.
Proceeded on our journey at an early hour but in consequence of having
to delay & drive generally very slow waiting for the lame horse, we
made but a short days march and encamped late in the evening at a small
River or rather sort of swamp. In the morning we crossed the Flag
River.--The lame horse gave up in the afternoon and with reluctance I
was obliged to leave him at a spring in a little valley with plenty of
grass about it. he seems to be otherwise diseased besides the lameness,
his near foreleg is swelled, the outerfilm of the skin and hair is come
off his breast in the shape of a horses foot, where probably he has
received a blow, before leaving him Charlie scarified his foot, he will
be sent for if possible.
The country through which we passed today has much the same appearance
as that passed yesterday and the course nearly the same. Though the
horses have not been driven hard yet some of them are getting fatigued,
many of them are getting very lean.--Last night as the night before the
horses were watched all night by 3 men at a time.
Wed.y. 20
Weather cloudy, but sultry and oppressively warm by turns. These two
nights past were very cold which is a great change from the excessive
heat experienced some time back. This is probably owing to our being in
the vicinity of the high land.
Set out on our journey early in the morning and got out of the plains
into the woods about 1/2 past 7 oclock. At 4 oclock I left 4 of the
men (C. Gregoire.) (A. Laparde.) (I. Levant) and (J. Maria) at the
fork[114] of the road that branches off to Okanogan, and proceeded to
Spokane with 2 men and 16 horses, 12 for this post and 4 with which I
am to go to Okanogan. One of them knocked up by the way & had to be
left to be sent for tomorrow. As the horses were fatigued I ordered
the men to encamp and allow the horses the evening to rest, and to
march at a very slow rate for the future. I left them with 89 horses
but one of them was so much jaded that it could not be expected to be
able to march. I therefore ordered it to be left and it would be sent
for tomorrow.--Arrived at Spokane[115] at 7 oclock and found Mr. Birnie
and his people all well. The country through which we passed today as
we advanced towards the woods and in the woods was in places very stony
which was not often the case these past days. Water was also scarcer
than hitherto.
Thursd.y. 21
Clear very warm weather.
Employed this day examining the property to be transported to the
Kettle Falls and find that the whole amounts to 254 pieces including
trading goods, provisions, stores & sundries. Mr. Birnie has been
actively & diligently employed during the summer, & has almost the
whole tied up and ready to put on horseback.--Had Mr. Dears been
permitted to accompany me I could have returned to Okanogan with an
Indian, and the transportation of the property might have commenced
immediately as Mr. Dears with one man could have remained in charge of
the property at Kettle falls. But now as the horses which I brought
with me must be returned to Okanogan and it being necessary that I
should be at that place to receive the goods and to accompany the
boats up, and no one being here to spare to take charge of the goods
at the Kettle falls, and leave enough to remain here with Mr. Birnie
and attend to the horses on the voyage, the conveying the property must
be deferred until Mr. Dease and some men can be sent from Okanogan
and the first trip will be at the Kettle Falls by the time the boats
arrive.--From the dislike the Indians have to the removal of the Fort,
of which they have heard some vague reports, which they seem unwilling
to believe, there is reason to apprehend that no assistance will be
received from them in the horse way which will very much retard our
business, as the number of horses which we have, about 34, will be a
long time of conveying all these pieces.
Mr. Birnie for so far has been pretty successful in the trade of
provisions, appichimens & saddls, and about a dozen of horses the
latter at a much cheaper rate than those purchased in the Nezperces
River. But the returns in furs are far short of those of last year
at this season the Indians from different places have done very
little.--The garden looks remarkably well, the potatoes are bigger than
eggs. Six kegs which were sowed at the Kettle Falls also looked well
the last time people were there they have been hoed twice.
Paid the Indian Charlie who accompanied us with the horses 20 skins
which he was promised more than he received at the Forks, and also
made him a present of a Buffalo Robe, he has promised to bring the
horse to the Fort. In case any other Indian trapper (should happen) to
take him off he is the only one that would be likely to recover him. I
intended to have sent a man & an Indian for this horse immediately but
Mr. Birnie doubts that it would not be safe as a good many straggling
Nezperces Indians are going & coming who might probably pillage them.
On my arrivel last night Mr. Birnie handed me a note from Governor
Simpson of which the following is a copy.
Columbia Lake 16th Apl. 1825.
Dear Sir
The Dr. will no doubt have informed you of the reasons that induced me
to alter your destination for this season and I trust the change will
be agreeable to you.--
I have lined out the site of a new establishment[116] at the Kettle
Falls and wish you to commence building and transporting the property
from Spokane as early as possible. Mr. Birnie has been directed to
plant about 5 kegs of potatoes--You will be so good as (to) take great
care of them the produce to be reserved for seed, not eat, as next
spring I expect that from 30 to 40 Bushels will be planted.--Pray let
every possible exertion be used to buy up an abundant stock of Fish
and other Provisions counrty Produce, as no imported provisions can
in future be forwarded from the coast.--If you can dispense with the
service of Mr. Dears in the course of the summer I wish him to be sent
with a couple of Indians to examine the Flat Heads River[117] as far
as the Ponderoy Camps at the Camass plain and if Navigable you will be
so good as (to) forward the outfit of that Post by water instead of
land carriage which will save a great expense in horse hire, etc.--The
Cantany[118] River we know to be navigable; it is not, therefore,
necessary to examine it, but you will likewise forward the outfit for
the Post of that name by water--A few long Portages must not interfere
with this plan as the benefits to be derived from the change will more
than counterbalance the additional trouble and personal labour it may
give our people.--If this plan is found to answer of which I have not
the smallest doubt we shall be perfectly independent of the Indians in
regard to horses which will be a great saving of property, and thereby
we shall also avoid the chance of quarrels with the natives in regard
to horse thieving as we shall have few or none to tempt them.--Mr.
Dears appears to be a self-sufficient forward young man, he must
not, however question or dispute your authority, if he does let me
know it, in the meantime show him this paragraph if necessary.--With
Mr. Birnie you will have no difficulty, he is unassuming active and
interested.--Pray use every exertion to trade horses for Thompson's
River and let them be sent in the fall so as to be forwarded from
Okanogan to New Caledonia with all the pack saddles and appichimens
that can be collected.
The cedar canoes brought down this season from Spokane will be the
proper craft for the Cootanies & Flat Head Rivers.
The Spokans will not be pleased at the removal of the Fort but you must
(?) the chiefs with a few presents besides fair words.
Do me the favour to collect[119] all the seeds plants Birds and
quadrupids & mice & rats you can and let them be forwarded by the ship
of next season to N. (Gosny) Esqur. care of Wm. Smith Esqr. Secty. H.
B. Cmy., London.
Wishing a pleasant & prosperous season.
I remain
Dear Sir
Your most obd. servant,
(Signed) Geo. Simpson.
Friday 22nd.
Cloudy, but sultry warm weather.
I deferred setting out for Okanogan, as I intended, in order to allow
the horses which are fatigued another days' rest, and there still
being plenty of time to reach that place before the boats from the
Wallawalla: something more could also be done here. In the course of
the day the business of removing the Fort was broached to the Chiefs
and notice given them that they would be requested to lend some
assistance in horses. They gave no decisive answer on the subject but
seemed to take it better than was expected. It was intimated that the
Fort would be left in their charge and that probably instructions
might be received in the fall for some people to reside at Spokane
with them still. They seem to swallow this notwithstanding its
improbability.--Very few of them are now about the Fort the most of
them being a short distance below it at a fishing barrier where they
are taking 7 or 800 salmon per day.
Satd'y. 23
Cloudy blowing strong from the Westward.
At 1/2 past 9 o'clock set out from Spokane for Okanogan accompanied by
a man and an Indian as a guide with seven horses, that is the 4 that
belong to Okanogan, & 3 to return to Spokane with some people.--At 12
oclock we got clear of the woods & into the plains, except a short time
that we stopped to allow the horses to feed. We drove on at a round
pace all day and encamped at 1/2 past 7 oclock at a little pool of
bad water, some distance from the Key encampment. The clouds of dust
raised by the wind which was right ahead made riding very disagreeable
as we were like to be choaked & blinded. Our guide did not keep the
road but cut from place to place through the plains.--Our course
might be from N. W. to W. Ridges of mountains or highlands run along
at no great distance to the Northward, thinly clothed with wood, the
country through which we passed though not (even) could not be called
hilly but swelling into little knowls, covered with a thin coat of dry
vegetables and generally of a barren & scorched appearance, except some
little valleys where some few bushes & green vegetables are produced in
consequence of there being water in the place or some moisture in the
ground.--The road was in some places good, but in others very stony.
Nothing to be seen to the S. E. but extensive plains bounded by the
horison.
Sunday 24
Weather as yesterday.
Continued our route at 4 oclock and arrived[120] on the opposite side
of the River at Okanagan at 1/2 past 7 after a smart days ride, and our
horses much fatigued, some of them nearly knocked up, this was owing
to their being allowed to drink too much water. If indulged in water
while on the route they ought never to be allowed to take more than a
mouthful or two.--
The appearance of the country course etc were much the same as
yesterday except that we passed through a point of woods, in the
morning we passed along the banks of the Columbia at the Lampoile[121]
River, and before noon crossed the Grand Coolley. Some of the mountains
to the Northward were topped with snow.
The men whom I left to proceed with the horses on the 20th arrived here
about noon with the whole band but one which they lost a little more
than a days march from this place.--It is a small horse 2 yrs. old, and
does not seem well.
Mondy 25
Cloudy blowing fresh from the Northward.
Went with the men for the purpose (of) bringing the horses across the
River, but as it was blowing fresh and several of the horses very lean,
it was deemed advisable to let them remain untill another occasion.
Tuesday 26
Clear warm weather.
Brought the horses[122] across from the other side of the River all
safe.
A little past noon an Indian arrived from Spokane with a note from Mr.
Birnie and a packet which had recently reached that place from Mr.
Ogden[123] dated East branch of the Missourie 10th July. In consequence
of the former coming out at the Flat Heads, the Snake business would
be so much involved with that of Spokane that I deemed it my duty to
open the dispatch which I am sorry to find contains intelligence of a
disagreeable nature. A series of misfortunes have attended the party
from shortly after their departure on the 24th may they fell in with a
party of Americans when 23 of the former deserted, two of this party
were killed one by the Indians and one by accident and the remainder of
the party are now coming out by the Flat Heads.
This occurrence will entirely change all our plans at Spokane,
respecting moving the Fort, as all our time will be occupied in
transporting the Snake outfit from Fort Nezperces to Spokane if the
Snake country business is carried on.--It is indispensably necessary
that these despatches should be sent to Fort Vancouver as soon as
possible, they must be sent either direct to Fort Nezperces from
this place or round by Spokane, by the former rout they will reach
Nezperces in four days, by the latter they will require six.--I shall
wait for Mr. McLeod's arrival when I expect he will furnish a man to
accompany Mr. Dears whom I intend to send for the more safe conveyance
of the packet, and who can return accompanied by an Indian direct from
Wallawalla to Spokane, with all the despatches remaining at that place
for Mr. Ogden, by this route he will reach Spokane as soon as I will
with the boats and the papers can be forwarded by the Trading party
to the Flat Heads & thence to Mr. Ogden by his men who are to come
in with their furs. Mr. McLeods man LaPrade[124] who passed in the
spring and who knows the road from this place to Nezperces can return
accompanied by an Indian and be back at Okanogan in 8 days or if deemed
safe he could come round by Spokane which would occupy 2 or 3 days
longer. If this plan meets Mr. McLeod's approbation it will be the most
expeditious. The route by Spokane will answer equally well, but it will
occupy at least 2 or three days longer to reach Nezperces.
Wed.y. 27
Warm sultry weather.
Sent off two of the men E. Gregoire and J. Moreau to seek the horse
which they lost by the way coming.--La Prade is retained at the Fort to
accompany Mr. Dears to Nezperces, in case Mr. McLeod allows him to go.
Thursd.y. 28.
Cloudy sultry weather.
Mr McLeod arrived with the boats 3 in number at 9 oclock in 8 days or
rather on the 8th day from Nezperces, the day was occupied separating
the cargoes, when I made out an a/c of the pieces which are to be
taken to Spokane Forks.[125]--Some pieces belonging to Nezperces and
the Snake expedition, it is thought advisable to take to Spokane, for
the Nezperces pieces Mr. Dease is to take an equal number of the same
description from the Snake outfit at his place. By taking these pieces
to Spokane it will save the carriage across land from Nezperces.
Friday 29th.
Sultry warm weather.
This day was employed preparing despatches for the sea which are to
accompany Mr. Ogdens letters which are to be sent off tomorrow. I
expected that Mr McLeod would have spared a man to accompany Mr Dears
to Wallawalla, but he cannot. I therefore thought he would have had to
go round by Spokane, but on consulting Robbie Doo[126] the Indian who
came with me, he engages to take him from here to Wallawalla though he
never was that road, this will save the horses, and two or three days
time. Mr Dears is to return straight to Spokane where I expect he will
arive as soon as men with the boats, & have all Mr. Ogdens (documents)
with him.
Though we have not more than full cargoes for two boats and 18 men to
work them to the Forks, yet as the road is very (bad) and Mr. McLeod's
and Mr. Ross's[127] families to accompany us it is the guide's opinion
that we will get on safer and more expeditiously by taking three
boats, 6 men per boat. Three are therefore to be taken.
Satd.y. 30
Clear warm weather.
Left Okanogan with 3 boats at 8 oclock and encamped at 6 in the evening
to gum one of the boats which was leaking though she had been gummed
at the fort. The road was tolerable though the current was very strong
till afternoon, they got on without the poles but afterwards the boats
had to be towed the greater part of the way with lines, sometimes the
united strength of the two crews was required to take up one boat. The
water is high though it has fallen greatly.
Mr Dears & the Indian also set out in the morning for Wallawalla. The
Indian who brought Mr. Ogdens letters from Spokane, also returned to
that place, with a letter to Mr Birnie requesting him to send horses to
meet me at the Forks to take the property up to Spokane, as we know not
whether the Fort can be removed this year untill answers are received
from the sea[128] to our letters.
Sunday 31st.
Clear warm weather.
Embarked before 4 oclock this morning and reached the lower end of
the dalls[129] at 9 oclock and got over there at 1, and encamped at
half past 6 in the evening, having made a better days march than the
common. In the evening we got on a little with the poles, but all the
rest of the day the tow line had to be used, at the dalls it was very
bad, the men had to pass the line over high projecting rocks where had
they missed a foot they would have been killed. At the upper end of the
dalls the boat had to be lightened and the one half of their cargoes
carried a piece, as the boats could not b dragged up with the cargo all
in.
August, 1825.
Mond.y. 1
Clear very warm.
Embarked at 3 oclock and put ashore at 5 to wait for Mr McLeod who
was to come across land with his family to embark for the mountains,
and with some papers which he had not finished when he left the Fort,
and were delayed till 3 oclock, when we proceeded on our journey and
encamped at 1/2 past 6.
Tuesday 2nd.
Cloudy mild weather.