The Canons live under the cloister; the cats live on the green garth, and

sometimes die there, I did not see much of the Canons; but the cats seemed

to me very sad-depressed, nostalgic even, I might describe them, if there

had not been something more languid, something faded and spiritless about

their habit. It was not that they quarrelled. I heard none of those long-

drawn wails, gloomy yet mellow soliloquies, with which our cats usher in

the crescent moon or hymn her when she swims at the full: there lacked

even that comely resignation we may see on any sunny window-ledge at

home;--the rounded back and neatly ordered tail, the immaculate fore-paws

peering sedately below the snowy chest, the squeezed-up eyes which so

resolutely shut off a bleak and (so to say) unenlightened world. That is

pensiveness, sedate chastened melancholy; but it is soothing, it speaks a

philosophy, and a certain balancing of pleasures and pains. In San Lorenzo

cloister, when I looked in one hot noon seeking a refuge from the glare

and white dust of the city, I was conscious of a something sinister that

forbade such an even existence for the smoothest tempered cat. There were

too many of them for companionship, and perhaps too few for the humour of

the thing to strike them: in and out the chilly shades they stalked

gloomily, hither and thither like lank and unquiet ghosts of starved cats.

They were of all colours--gay orange-tawny, tortoiseshell with the

becoming white patch over one eye, delicate tints of grey and fawn and

lavender, brindle, glossy sable; and yet the gloom and dampness of the

place seemed to mildew them all so that their brightness was glaring and

their softest gradations took on a shade as of rusty mourning. No cat

could be expected to do herself justice.

To and fro they paced, balancing sometimes with hysterical precision on

the ledge of the parapet, passing each other at whisker's length, but

_cutting each other dead_! Not a cat had a look or a sniff for his

fellow; not a cat so much as guessed at another's existence. Among those

hundred-and-three restless spirits there was not a cat but did not affect

to believe that a hundred-and-two were away! It was horrible, the

_inhumanity_ of it. Here were these shreds and waifs, these

"unnecessary litters" of Florentine households, herded together in the

only asylum (short of the Arno) open to them, driven in like dead leaves

in November, flitting dismally round and round for a span, and watching

each other die without a mew or a lick! Saint Francis was not the wise man

I had thought him.

It was about two o'clock in the afternoon. I had watched these beasts at

their feverish exercises for nearly an hour before I perceived that they

were gradually hemming me in. They seemed to be forming up, in ranks, on

the garth. Only a ditch separated us--I was in the cloister-walk, a

hundred-and-three gaunt, expectant, desperate cats facing me. Their

famished pale eyes pierced me through and through; and two-hundred-and-two

hungry eyes (four cats supported life in one apiece) is more than I can

stand, though I am a married man with a family. These brutes thought I was

going to feed them! I was preparing weakly for flight when I heard steps

in the gateway; a woman came in with a black bag. She must be going to

deposit a cat on Jean-Jacques' ingenious plan of avoiding domestic

trouble; it was surely impossible she wanted to borrow one! Neither: she

came confidently in, beaming on our mad fellowship with a pleasant smile

of preparation. The cats knew her better than I did. Their suspense was

really shocking to witness. While she was rolling her sleeves up and tying

on her apron--she was poor, evidently, but very neat and wholesome in her

black dress and the decent cap which crowned her grey hair--while she

unpacked the contents of the bag--two newspaper parcels full of rather

distressing viands, scissors, and a pair of gloves which had done duty

more than once--while all these preparations were soberly fulfilling, the

agitation of the hundred-and-three was desperate indeed. The air grew

thick, it quivered with the lashing of tails; hoarse mews echoed along the

stone walls, paws were raised and let fall with the rhythmical patter of

raindrops. A furtive beast played the thief: he was one of the one-eyed

fraternity, red with mange. Somehow he slipped in between us; we

discovered him crouched by the newspaper raking over the contents. This

was no time for ceremony; he got a prompt cuff over the head and slunk

away shivering and shaking his ears. And then the distribution began. Now,

your cat, at the best of times, is squeamish about his food; he stands no

tricks. He is a slow eater, though he can secure his dinner with the best

of us. A vicious snatch, like a snake, and he has it. Then he spreads

himself out to dispose of the prey-feet tucked well in, head low, tail

laid close along, eyes shut fast. That is how a cat of breeding loves to

dine, Alas! many a day of intolerable prowling, many a black vigil, had

taken the polish off the hundred-and-three. As a matter of fact they

behaved abominably: they leaped at the scraps, they clawed at them in the

air, they bolted them whole with starting eyes and portentous gulpings,

they growled all the while with the smothered ferocity of thunder in the

hills. No waiting of turns, no licking of lips and moustaches to get the

lingering flavours, no dalliance. They were as restless and suspicious

here as everywhere; their feast was the horrid hasty orgy of ghouls in a

churchyard.

But an even distribution was made: I don't think any one got more than his

share. Of course there were underhand attempts in plenty, and, at least

once, open violence--a sudden rush from opposite sides, a growling and

spitting like sparks from a smithy; and then, with ears laid flat, two

ill-favoured beasts clawed blindly at each other, and a sly and tigerish

brindle made away with the morsel. My woman took the thing very coolly I

thought, served them all alike, and didn't resent (as I should have done)

the unfortunate want of delicacy there was about these vagrants. A cat

that takes your food and growls at you for the favour, a cat that would

eat _you_ if he dared, is a pretty revelation. _Ça donne

furieusement à penser_. It gives you a suspicion of just how far the

polish we most of us smirk over will go. My cats at San Lorenzo knew some

few moments of peace between two and three in the afternoon. That would

have been the time to get up a testimonial to the kind soul who fed them.

Try them at five and they would ignore you. But try them next morning!

My knowledge of the Italian tongue, in those days, was severely limited to

the necessaries of existence; to take me on a fancy subject, like cats,

was to strike me dumb. But at this stage of our intercourse (hitherto

confined to smiles and eye-service) it became so evident my companion had

something to say that I must perforce take my hat off and stand attentive.

She pointed to the middle of the garth, and there, under the boughs of a

shrub, I saw the hundred-and-fourth cat, sorriest of them all. It was a

new-comer, she told me, and shy. Shy it certainly was, poor wretch; it

glowered upon me from under the branches like a bad conscience. Shyness

could not hide hunger--I never saw hungrier eyes than hers--but it could

hold it in check: the silkiest speech could not tempt her out, and when we

threw pieces she only winced! What was to be done next was my work. Plain

duty called me to scale the ditch with some of those dripping, slippery,

nameless cates in my fingers and to approach the stranger where she lurked

bodeful under her tree. My passage towards her lay over the rank

vegetation of the garth, in whose coarse herbage here and there I stumbled

upon a limp white form stretched out--a waif the less in the world! I

don't say it was a happy passage for me: it was made to the visible

consternation of her I wish to befriend. Her piteous yellow eyes searched

mine for sympathy; she wanted to tell me something and wouldn't

understand! As I neared her she shivered and mewed twice. Then she limped

painfully off--poor soul, she had but three feet!--to another tree,

leaving behind her, unwillingly enough, a much-licked dead kitten. That

was what she wanted to tell me then. As I was there, I deposited the

garbage by the side of the little corpse, knowing she would resume her

watch, and retired. My friend who had put up her parcels was prepared to

go. She thanked me with a smile as she went out, looking carefully round

lest she had missed out some other night-birds. One of the Canons had come

out of his door and was leaning against the lintel, thoughtfully rubbing

his chin. He was a spare dry man who seemed to have measured life and

found it a childish business. He jerked his head towards the gateway as he

glanced at me. "That is a good woman," he said in French, "she lendeth

unto the Lord.... Yes," he went on, nodding his head slowly backwards and

forwards, "lends Him something every day." The cats were sitting in the

shady cloister-garth licking their whiskers: one was actually cleaning his

paw. I went out into the sun thinking of Saint Francis and his wolf.

XI

THE SOUL OF A CITY

He hated Marco first of all because one day he undersold him in the Campo,

put him to shame in open market. Figs were going cheap that October in

spite of the waning year; but there was no earthly reason why he should

give the English ladies more than four for two _soldi_. What were

_soldi_ to English people? The scratch of a flea! He would have given

them a handful, taken as they came, for their piece of _cinquanta_,

and reaped a tidy little profit for himself. Who would have been the

worse? God knew he needed it. Mariola crumpled with the ague like a dried

leaf, and that long girl of his growing up so fast, and still running wild

with goat-herds and marble quarrymen. How could he send her to the nuns

for a place unless he bought her some shoes and a rosary? And then that

pig Marco--thieving old miser--peered forward with his mock candour and

silver-rimmed goggles and offered _ten_ for two _soldi_--ten!

with the market price, _Dio mio_, at twelve! And _fichi totati_

too! Do you wonder that the ladies in striped blankets gave the cheek to

Maso Cecci and turned to Marco Zoppa?

That wasn't all, but it was an accentuation of a long series of spiteful

injuries wrought him by the wrinkled old villain. Maso endured, hating the

old man daily more and more; tried little tricks, little revenges, upon

him, upset his baskets, hid his pipe; but they generally failed or

recoiled with a nasty swiftness upon himself. He only got deeper and

deeper into the bad odour of the neighbours who traded in the Piazza with

fruit and indifferent photographs. Nothing went very well--thanks to that

unspeakable old Marco! His girl grew longer and lazier and handsomer, with

a shapelier bust and a pair of arms like that snaky Bacchante in the

_Opera_. Maso had to quail more than he liked to admit before the

proud stare of her eyes; and when she dropped the heavy lids upon them and

sauntered away, arms akimbo under her shawl, he could only swear. And he

always cursed Marco Zoppa who gave her chestnuts and sage counsel for

nothing. God only knew what devilry he might be whispering to her in the

shady corner where the sun never came and the grass sprouted between the

flags--she leaning against the wall, looking down at her toes, and he

peering keen-eyed into her face and muttering in his beard, sometimes

laying an old brown hand on her shoulder--Lord! he _did_ hate the

man.

Then came the August races.

Maso had brought his Isotta into the city to see the fun and she had

disappeared in the press just before the procession stayed by the Palazzo

and the trumpets sounded for the first race. Maso shrugged his shoulders

and cursed his luck, but didn't budge. The girl must look after herself.

He was on the upper rim of the great fountain craning his neck over the

pack of people: then he got a dig under the ribs enough to take the breath

of an ox. It was the spout of old Marco's green umbrella. "Hey! silly

fool," spluttered the old liar, "dost want that loose-legged slut of thine

in trouble? I tell thee she's playing in a corner with Carlo Formaggia.

Already he's pinched her cheek twice, and who knows what the end may be?

Mud-coloured ass, wilt thou let thy child slip to the devil while thou

standest gaping at a horse-race?" And this before all the neighbours! What

to say to such a man? Maso babbled with rage; but he had to go, for Carlo

Formaggia was well known. He had ruined more girls than enough; he was in

league with vile houses, gambling dens, thieves' hells; Captain of an

infamous secret society; the police were only waiting for a pretext to get

him shipped off to the hulks. He must go of course. No thanks to Marco

though: in fact he hated him worse than ever, partly because he had drawn

all eyes and a fair share of sniggering and tongues thrust in the cheek

upon his account; but most because he knew he had been trapped into losing

a good place. For, as he mounted the narrow stair cut between old houses

steep as rocks, he turned and saw Zoppa placidly smoking his pipe in the

very spot he had held, squatted on the fountain-rim with his green

umbrella between his knees. He was beaming through his spectacles, in a

fatherly, indulgent sort of way, upon the shouting people; following the

race too, like one who had paid for his box. Maso, when he heard the

shatter of hoofs and the wild roar from thousands of throats down below

him in the Campo, cursed old Zoppa with a grey face, and went muttering

round the blinding sides of the Duomo to find his daughter. And when he

did find her she was eating chestnuts at the open door of her aunt's shop

in the Via Ghibellina! Bacchus! she was sick of all those folk in their

_festa_ clothes, was all the explanation she would give him from

between fine white teeth all clogged with chestnut-meal. If he chose to

dress his daughter like a beggar's brat he had better not take her to the

races. Maso's feeling of relief at finding her alone and looking her usual

sulky impassive self, gave way very rapidly to a sort of righteous wrath

against his triumphant enemy. So, by foul slanders of honest God-fearing

people that old Jew had not scrupled to rob him of his place! His place

and his day's fun. By Heaven, he was tricked, duped by a scaly-eyed Jew

pedlar, a vile old dog tottering down to Hell with lies in his beard.

Well! he would put this morning's work down to his score; some day there

would be a choice little reckoning for Ser Marco.

Maso, green with impotent fury, poured out his flood of gutturals upon his

_insouciante_ child. General reproaches were always a failure in

cases of this sort. Some were sure to be wild guess-work and to drown the

real ones: you could never tell when you had hit the mark. Had she not--

she fourteen, too!--slid astride down the railing into the Campo and been

caught up in the arms of Carlo Formaggia waiting and laughing at the

bottom? Had she not lain a whole minute in his arms, panting? And then,

_Dio mio_, with the sweat still on her forehead, she had slipped off

to San Domenico and confessed to coughing at mass the Sunday before! Pest!

he would give her the strap over her shoulders when he got her home. The

long, brown girl leaned against the lintel kicking one heel idly against

the other. She was smiling at him, smiling with her lazy, languid eyes and

with her glistening teeth. Every now and then she inspected a chestnut

critically--like an amateur!--and slipped it between her jaws. They split

it like a banana. And then she squeezed the half skins and dropped the

flour down her throat. She had a long sinewy throat, glossy as velvet,

with its silvery lights and dusky brown shadows. Maso stood helpless

before her as she drank down her flour; he chattered like a little

passionate ape. At last he lifted up both hands in a sudden frenzy of

despair and went away.

Of course the races were over. The sober streets swarmed with people in

their holiday clothes. They all seemed laughing and smoking, and talking

fluently of something ridiculous. Maso, egoist, knew it must be about him--

or his daughter. Arms and heads went like mill-sails or tall trees in a

gale of wind. Then, with a rattle and the sudden sliding of four hoofs on

the flags, a cart would be in the thick of them, and the people scoured to

the curb, still laughing, or spitting between the spasms of the

interrupted jest. The boys tried to peep under the sagging hats of the

girls, and the girls turned pettish shoulders to them and, as they turned,

you caught the glint of fun in their great roes' eyes and saw the lips

part before the quick breath. The streets were mere gullies, clefts hewn

in zig-zag between grey houses that tottered up and up, and lay over them

like cliffs. An ancient church with bleached stone saints under flowery

canopies, a guttering candle before a tinsel shrine, and the hoarse babel

of the streets--whips that cracked and spluttered like squibs, a swarming

coloured stream of men and maids, once the twang of a chance mandoline.

Siena was feasting, and the waiters furtively swept their foreheads with

their coat-sleeves as they ran in and out of the _trattorie_.

In the _trattoria_ of the _Aquila Rossa_ old Marco Zoppa smoked

his pipe and talked, between the spurts of smoke, to his neighbours. Fate

brought him face to face with two enemies at once. Maso was battling his

way up the street, white and strained as a grave-cloth; and Carlo

Formaggia, the approved bravo--oiled and jaunty, with his brown felt

fantastically rolled and stuck over one ear, with a long cigar which he

alternately gnawed and sucked, Carlo the broad-chested, of the seared,

evil face, came down with the stream on the arms of two other gilded

youths. They met before the cafe, the man of intolerable wrongs and the

Pilia-Borsa of Siena. Maso scowled till his thick eyebrows cut his face

horizontally in two. He stood ostentatiously still, muttering with his

lips as the trio went lightly by. Then he made to go on. But old Marco

Zoppa stood up and made a speech. He had the wooden stem of his pipe

'twixt finger and thumb, and used it like a conductor's _bâton_ to

emphasise his points. As his voice shrilled and quavered, Carlo Formaggia

caught his own name and turned back to listen, prick-eared. He stood out

of sight resting one foot on a doorstep, and leaned forward on to his leg.

He might have been dreaming of some night of love, but he held every word

as it dropped.

"Maso," Marco went on, "thou art but a thin fool. I know what I know; but

thou must needs stick dirt in thine ears and pass me by. Well, let be, let

be; the end will come soon enough--this night even. And I have warned

thee."

"Spawn of a pig, wilt never have done irking me? See, I scratch thee off

me!" Maso drove home his gibe with a dramatic performance. The

_trattoria_ was agape. Every table held its three craning necks and

six piercing, twinkling eyes atop.

"I grow old, my Maso, I grow very old, and thy monkey's tricks are nought.

'Tis thy slip of a girl and thy poor twisted Mariola I would save in spite

of thee. Listen then once more, and for the last time. Ser Carlo intends

to snare thy pigeon. He has limed his twigs; the bird flutters free for

this noon, but by to-night she will be caged. For me, I have done my

possible--but I am old. Life tingles fiercer in the blood of a young man.

Therefore beware. Wilt thou see that brawny assassin toying with thy girl;

leaning over her where she crouches, poisoning her with fat words? That's

how the snake licks the turtle before he gulps her--'tis to make her

sleek, look you! Well, go thy way, dolt and blunderhead. For me--old as I

am--I will shoot a last bolt for Mariola. This very night after supper I

go to the Sbirro: and thy thanks will be a rounder oath and some more

knave's tricks with my baskets."

"No thanks are owing, Marco Zoppa"; Maso was ashy with shame and rage at

the old man's placid benevolence. "Marco Zoppa, thou hast been my enemy

ever, and I have borne it"--the Café roared with laughter; a fat old

Capuchin nearly had a fit. Maso looked round with fright in his eyes. He

went on, "Now thou hast gone too far--insulting me grossly before these

citizens. Thou hast brought thine end upon thyself." He ran away fighting

through the delighted crowd. Everybody who could get at him slapped him on

the back. A big carter stove his hat in.

Old Marco shrugged his patient shoulders and sat down to read the

_Secolo_. He balanced his silver-rimmed spectacles on his nose and

held the journal at arm's length with hand a thought more shaky, perhaps,

than usual. Presently he looked up: "Mother of God! what a white-faced

rogue it is! Eh, Giuseppe?" "By Mars, if looks could stab, thou hadst been

riddled by the knife before this," said his friend. Marco shrugged and

went on reading--he was an old man.

But when Carlo Formaggia had heard the debate, he turned a shade shinier,

and his eyes harder and brighter. As he motioned his friends off with a

look, he swallowed something hard in his throat. Then he turned down the

first side street, doubled round to the right, turned to the left down a

kind of black sewer-trap and let himself into a wine-shop, where he sat

down, breathing short. He drank brandy--but he drank like a machine. The

muscles of his jaw were working spasmodically as he sat rigid on a tub,

leaning against the counter. And he fingered something at his belt. His

eyes were in a cold stare: he saw nothing and didn't move. But he went on

drinking brandy till late in the afternoon, till the _Hail Mary_

bells began to sound a tinkling chorus through the still air.

And Maso Cecci, he too, rushed away white and chattering. Rage had past

definition with him, he saw things red, and they choked him. The air felt

thick to him, full of flies. He brushed his hands before his face, struck

out vaguely, and swore as the dazzling black things settled round him

again in a swarm. Irritated, maddened as he was, he still heard the

derisive yells of the crowd at the _birreria_ and saw Marco's calm

wise old face smiling urbanely behind silver spectacles. _Cristo

amore!_ how he loathed that old man. Siena could never hold the pair of

them: there must be an end--there _should_ be an end. His heart gave

a jerk under his vest as he thought of it. An end!--an end of his eternal

fretting jealousy in the Campo, his continued sense of being worsted, of

galling inferiority to that methodical old villain. An end of his worries

about Isotta; an end--ah! but there would be something rarer than that? To

a man like Maso, a small man, of immoderate self-esteem, and that self-

esteem always on the smart, there is another satisfaction--that of seeing

the better man totter and slip forward to his knees. This insufferable old

Marco who was always so right, with his slow methods and accursed

accuracy--to see him stumble and drop! That was what made Maso's heart

flutter and thud against his skin. And then, as he thought of it, it

seemed inevitable. It could be done in a minute, _via!_ The old man

was alone--it would be dusk--he would peer forward through the gloom to

open the door and--_Madre di Dio!_--and then! Maso was sweating; the

back of his palate itched intolerably; something hot and sticky clogged

his mouth and glued his tongue against the roof of it. His knees shook so

that he could scarcely walk. Some little boys stood to stare at him as he

lurched by, and laughed stealthily to see the hated Maso tipsy. But Maso

was unconscious of all this: he staggered on homewards with scorching

eyes....

Old Marco lived down beyond the Railway Station--a room in a crazy block

of buildings that had been run up for the needs of the factory hands. It

was like a great smooth cliff, this block, and was washed over a raw pink,

but it glowed in the setting sun that evening, like the city herself and

all the hills, the colour of bright blood. As Maso neared its blind face,

stepping warily with outstretched neck like some obscene bird, and with

one hand under his coat--the sun was going down into a purple bank of

cloud. He gilded the edges as he sank and shot broad rays of crimson light

up into the green sky. Here and there a star twinkled faint; the city lay

over him like a cloudy, silent company of rocks; the tower of the Palazzo

ran up into the pallor of the sky, a shaking spear.

There was but one glimmer of light in the whole ghostly wall of tenements

and that, Maso knew, was Marco Zoppa's. Every soul else was crowded in the

Campo waiting for the fireworks. And, as he thought, he heard a dull thud

behind him, and turned; and there, far up, a single shaft of flame shot

aloft, and stayed, and burst into a fan of lights; and a puff told him it

was the first rocket. "_Ecco! Madre di Dio_, a sign! a sign! So will

_I_ go up; and so shall my enemy come down." And Maso crept up the

stairway breathing thick and short....

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